January 2011 by Amy Machnak

East Bay day trip: Hike & dine

living in the west January 2011 One-pan suppers | relaxing escapes | How to plant a fruit tree | 4 twists on chicken soup

Pizza in a skillet … and other one-dish wonders

LIVING IN THE WEST

Luscious & low-fat

Easy broccoli rabe skillet pizza

recharge, relax

11 great escapes The art of display:

how to arrange your stuff

Sunset.com

Easy-grow fruit trees Chicken soup–– 4 twists on the classic winter fave P. 82

JANUARY 2011

Sunset.com

o t t a h W now t ea Kick-start your â&#x20AC;&#x153;eat healthierâ&#x20AC;? resolution with 10 easy-to-follow strategies By the sunset food staff | photograPHs by yunhee kim food styling by karen shinto | prop styling by emma star jensen

Sunset January 2011

1 Buy mussels

You’d think their briny sweetness would be all the reason we need to celebrate mussels, as well as other seafood that’s low on the food chain, like oysters and clams. Well, there’s more. Mussels are off the charts for vitamin B12, and high in iron, protein, even vitamin C.

Saffron steamed mussels SERVES 4 | 1 HOUR This Spanish-style dish is easy enough to pull off on a weeknight. 1 each red and yellow bell pepper, cut into 1/4-in. dice 1 tbsp. olive oil 2 tbsp. minced garlic 1/2 tsp. each saffron threads and pepper 1 bottle (8 oz.) clam juice 1 cup aromatic white wine such as Viognier 4 dozen mussels in the shell, scrubbed, beards pulled off Finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Lemon wedges

1. Sauté bell peppers in oil in a 5- to 6-qt. pan over medium-high heat until beginning to brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Add garlic, saffron, and pepper and cook, stirring, until garlic is softened, 1 to 2 minutes. 2. Pour in 1 cup water, the clam juice, and wine. Cover, bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat and simmer about 10 minutes to blend flavors. 3. Return broth to boiling and stir in mussels. Cook, covered, over medium heat until shells open, 8 to 10 minutes; discard any mussels that don’t open. Ladle into bowls, sprinkle with parsley, and serve with lemon.

good for the earth

The bivalves gobble up phytoplankton, not scarcer wild fish; improve ocean quality by filter feeding; and are a sustainably farm-raised food.

PER SERVING 290 Cal., 27% (77 cal.) from fat; 24 g protein; 8.6 g fat (1.3 g sat.); 15 g carbo (1.1 g fiber); 489 mg sodium; 56 mg chol.

Sunset January 2011

2 Make it sustainable-meat Sundays … Grass-fed meat may take a bigger bite out of your wallet than the usual grain-fed supermarket choice, but the extra dollars pay off nutritionally with meat that is lower in fat, and––thanks to the animals’ pasturebased diet––higher in omega-3s and a group of fatty acids that can actually lower your cholesterol. Farmers’ markets and some supermarkets sell grass-fed beef and sometimes bison, lamb, and even goat.

Mini lamb meatballs with cilantro-mint chutney MAKES 40 | 45 MINUTES This Indian-spiced meat mixture makes great burgers too—try them on folded naan with the chutney and a slice of tomato.

Meatballs 11/2 tsp. cumin seeds, divided 1 tsp. each coriander and fennel seeds 1/2 tsp. each pepper, cayenne, cinnamon, and salt 1/4 tsp. turmeric 1 lb. ground lamb (preferably grass-fed) 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1 tbsp. vegetable oil

chutney 3 tbsp. low-fat Greek yogurt 1 tsp. each minced serrano chile* and fresh ginger 1/2 tsp. salt 2 cups loosely packed cilantro 1 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves 1 cup chopped onion About 1 tsp. lemon juice

good for the earth

Sunset January 2011

Well-managed grass-fed animals can help keep an ecosystem in balance. They loosen the soil with their hooves, and in the process, work in plant seeds, which they then fertilize with their manure.

1. Make meatballs: In a small frying pan, toast cumin over medium heat until fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Grind in a spice grinder, put 1 tsp. in a medium bowl, and reserve the rest for chutney. Grind coriander and fennel and add to bowl with remaining spices, salt, lamb, and egg. Mix gently. Chill mixture until firm enough to shape, about 15 minutes. 2. Make chutney: Put all chutney ingredients and reserved cumin in a food processor and whirl until very smooth. Add more lemon juice if you like. Spoon into a serving bowl. 3. Finish meatballs: With wet hands, form chilled meat into 1-in. balls and set on a baking sheet. Heat oil in a heavy 12-in. nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Fry meatballs until well browned all over, 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to paper towels. 4. Serve meatballs with toothpicks and the chutney. *For a milder chutney, seed chile before mincing. PER 3-MEATBALL serving WITH 3 TSP. CHUTNEY 94 Cal., 60% (56 cal.) from fat; 7.1 g protein; 6.3 g fat (2.2 g sat.); 2.5 g carbo (1.1 g fiber); 204 mg sodium; 39 mg chol.

3 … and meatless Mondays

You may have heard the slogan, which started as a way to help the war effort during WWI. Now it’s a grassroots movement (meatlessmonday.com) with an A-list of followers, from Michael Pollan to Mario Batali. Why take the pledge? Going meatless just one day a week can decrease your risk for cancer and other major health issues.

Winter greens and mushroom pasta SERVES 4 | 20 MINUTES 6 oz. angel hair pasta 1/4 cup olive oil, divided 8 oz. cremini mushrooms, sliced 1 leek, white and light green parts only, chopped 1 large garlic clove, minced 1 bunch dandelion greens, stems removed and chopped in thirds 4 oz. radicchio, roughly chopped 1 tsp. kosher salt 1/2 cup low-fat or whole-milk ricotta cheese About 1/4 cup toasted plain croutons, crushed 1/3 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

1. Cook pasta according to package directions. Reserve 1 cup pasta water, then drain. 2. Heat 2 tbsp. oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Add mushrooms and cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in leek and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add greens, radicchio, and salt and cook until just warm, about 1 minute (add a bit of water if pan starts to scorch). 3. Toss pasta, vegetables, and reserved pasta water together. Top with dollops of ricotta, croutons, a drizzle of remaining 2 tbsp. oil, and parsley. PER SERVING 416 Cal., 38% (159 cal.) from fat; 14 g protein; 18 g fat (3.7 g sat.); 53 g carbo (6 g fiber); 639 mg sodium; 9.6 mg chol.

good for the earth

10 more great-foryou foods: sunset.com/ healthy-food

The meat industry churns out more manand animal-made greenhouse gases than cars do (as much as onefifth of the world’s total). Ouch.

Sunset January 2011

teff »

farro »

amaranth »

4 Go with the grain

You’re into quinoa. Now venture a little deeper into the grocery shelves (or go to bobsredmill.com) for a handful of other super-healthy whole grains. The best reason to check out these new choices? Their nutty goodness. » teff A tiny grain

originally from Ethiopia, with an earthy, savory flavor. Cook the whole grain like hot cereal, or try the flour in Ethiopian injera flatbread (go to sunset.com for a recipe).

good for the earth

Some farmers are bringing back locally adapted grains like white Sonora wheat, a low-water-use variety once grown in California by Spanish missionaries.

Sunset January 2011

» farro A member

of the wheat family, and good any way you’d enjoy wheat berries—simmered for pilaf or soup, and dressed like tabbouleh for salads or wraps. (Farro is similar to spelt and identical to emmer, according to most experts. Kamut is a cousin. All four are interchangeable in recipes.)

» amaranth A small Latin American “pseudo grain” (really a seed, like quinoa) with a fine crunch or a porridgelike texture, depending on how it’s cooked. Try stirring a handful raw into muffin batter.

Farro dolmas salad SERVES 8 | 40 MINUTES Just as good as traditional stuffed grape leaves, but lots faster, and made with whole grains. 1 cup farro (see source above left) 1/3 cup dried currants, soaked in hot water to soften, then drained 1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped 5 preserved grape leaves, patted dry and chopped 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp. lemon juice 1/4 tsp. each pepper and kosher salt Red chile flakes (optional)

Pick over farro for any debris, then rinse. Simmer farro in a medium saucepan with 3 cups water until tender, 25 minutes; drain. Toss with remaining ingredients. Serve warm or at room temperature. PER 1/2-CUP SERVING 164 Cal., 44% (72 cal.) from fat; 4.5 g protein; 8.2 g fat (1 g sat.); 21 g carbo (3.2 g fiber); 134 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

5 Get the right eggs

Pasture-raised eggs wow us with their rich flavor, deep yellow yolks, and perky whites. And they just may be better for us than standard supermarket eggs––fresher; higher, according to some studies, in omega-3s and vitamins A and E; and lower in cholesterol and fat. “Pasture-raised” isn’t an official definition, but generally means that the chicken got most of its nutrition from foraging, with grain to supplement. Look for the eggs at farmers’ markets.

Eggs Benedict light Still extravagant, but with a far leaner sauce than the classic.

GET STARTED Poach* 4 large eggs, brown 4 thin slices Canadian bacon, and split and toast 2 whole-wheat English muffins. Keep everything warm. MAKE SAUCE Melt 1 tbsp. butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Whisk 3/4 cup low-fat Greek yogurt, 1 large egg, 1 tbsp. mayonnaise, 1 tsp. lemon juice, and 1/2 tsp. kosher salt in a small good for the earth

bowl. Gradually whisk yogurt mixture into butter, heating just until warmed, 25 seconds (if overcooked, sauce will curdle). ASSEMBLE Top each muffin half with a slice of bacon and an egg. Pour some sauce on top and serve extra sauce on the side. Add some pepper and parsley. Serves 2. *For how, search sunset.com for “perfect poached eggs.” PER SERVING 506 Cal., 50% (252 cal.) from fat; 34 g protein; 28 g fat (10 g sat.); 32 g carbo (4.6 g fiber); 1,557 mg sodium; 565 mg chol.

Pasture-raised chickens are allowed to peck for bugs and move around as nature intended.

Sunset January 2011

6 Cook with the tastiest bean They’re back––the small,

mighty beans you may (still) have never heard of. Tepary beans sustained native people for thousands of years in the Sonoran Desert, but then nearly disappeared. Now this sweet, creamy-textured bean has a new generation of converts. And it’s high in protein, fiber, and vitamins.

Tepary bean and fennel ragout SERVES 4 | 21/4 HOURS, plus at least 4 hours to soak This stew is also delicious made with other Southwest heirloom beans (shown at left) or regular pintos.

tepary »

1/2

« rio zape

anasazi »

lb. (11/4 cups) tepary, Anasazi, or Rio Zape beans*, sorted carefully for debris and rinsed 1 fennel bulb, trimmed, feathery tops reserved 2 tbsp. olive oil, divided 1 large carrot, diced 1 medium onion, chopped 11/2 tsp. kosher salt 21/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves, divided

good for the earth

One of the most drought- and heat-tolerant legumes in the world, tepary can produce a crop with water from a single rainstorm.

Sunset January 2011

1. Soak beans overnight in a medium bowl with 1 qt. water; or boil in a medium pot with 1 qt. water 2 minutes, then remove from heat and let stand, covered, 4 hours. 2. Halve fennel lengthwise, then thinly slice lengthwise, discarding core. In a medium saucepan, sauté fennel with 1 tbsp. oil over medium heat until edges brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Pour into a bowl; chill until used. 3. Add remaining 1 tbsp. oil, the carrot, and onion to pan; sauté until starting to brown, about 8 minutes. Add beans and their liquid, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until tender, 11/2 to 13/4 hours, stirring occasionally and adding a little more water if beans start to look dry. Stir in salt, 2 tsp. thyme, and the fennel slices; return to a simmer and cook about 10 more minutes. 4. Chop enough fennel fronds to make 1 tbsp. and stir into beans with remaining 1/2 tsp. thyme. *Buy from nativeseeds.org, rancho gordo.com, or anasazibeans.com PER SERVING 302 Cal., 23% (68 cal.) from fat; 14 g protein; 7.7 g fat (1.1 g sat.); 46 g carbo (12 g fiber); 785 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

7 Make your own broth

Canned or packaged broth is handy for adding flavor, but it can have loads of sodium. Creating your own broth is easy, you don’t have to add a speck of salt, and you can stockpile it in the freezer.

» use sturdy vegetables

that give lots of flavor, such as root vegetables, onions, leeks, and celery. You can toss ’em in, peels and all. » add neutral-flavored herbs like parsley, thyme, and chives to create the most versatile broth. Steer clear of stronger herbs such as rosemary and mint. » avoid vegetables like tomatoes and bell peppers, which will disintegrate and make the

broth cloudy, or beets, which will turn it a scary color. And stay away from sulfurous-tasting broccoli and cabbage. » feel free to use wilting veggies, with any brown spots trimmed. But if anything’s actually on the way out, send it to the compost. » freeze broth in a variety of containers, including ice cube trays, so you always have the perfect amount on hand.

good for the earth

Making broth rather than buying it means less waste and less packaging in the landfill.

Sunset January 2011

8 Sprinkle seeds in everything

« sunflower seeds

Imagine all the nourishment a plant needs to reproduce, tucked into a tiny package. Seeds are good for people too––rich in linoleic acid (an essential fatty acid, meaning one your body can’t produce) and fiber. Some kinds even have lots of calcium. Buy them in the baking aisle or from bobsredmill.com

Thousand-seed banana date muffins MAKES 12 | 65 MINUTES Loaded with seeds and made with only 2 tbsp. oil, these muffins stay incredibly moist and light, thanks to two fruit purées and a soft meringue.

poppy seeds »

1/4

cup each sesame seeds, poppy seeds, sunflower seeds, and pumpkin seeds 1/2 cup (3 oz.) packed pitted dates 1 cup mashed ripe bananas 1/4 cup plain low-fat yogurt 2 tbsp. vegetable oil 11/2 tsp. vanilla extract 1 large egg, separated, plus 1 large egg white 1 cup sugar, divided 1 cup whole-wheat pastry flour 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup flaxseed meal* 11/2 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. baking soda 1/2 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. cream of tartar

sesame seeds »

pumpkin seeds »

good for the earth

« flaxseed meal « chia seeds

Sunset January 2011

Remember chia seeds, smeared over clay Chia Pets to create a grassy coat? They’re so nutritious, they once helped sustain the Aztecs. And now they’re getting attention as a droughttolerant crop.

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Butter 12 muffin cups (1/3-cup size) and set aside. Put sesame and poppy seeds in a pie pan and sunflower and pumpkin seeds in another. Bake seeds, stirring once, until golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Combine seeds in 1 pan and set aside. 2. Whirl dates with 1/2 cup water in a blender or food processor until very smooth. Scrape into a medium bowl and add bananas, yogurt, oil, vanilla, egg yolk, and 3/4 cup sugar. Whisk to blend, then set aside. 3. Stir flours in a large bowl with flaxseed meal, baking powder and soda, salt, and all but 2 tbsp. of the seeds. 4. Beat egg whites with cream of tartar in a bowl with a mixer on high speed until foamy. Gradually add remaining 1/4 cup sugar, beating until soft peaks form. Fold whites into banana mixture. Fold into flour mixture just until blended. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups (they’ll be very full). Sprinkle with remaining 2 tbsp. seeds. 5. Bake muffins until just firm to touch and edges are golden, 22 to 25 minutes. Loosen from pans with a small metal spatula. Serve warm or cool. *Find with baking ingredients. PER MUFFIN 289 Cal., 34% (99 cal.) from fat; 6.5 g protein; 11 g fat (2 g sat.); 43 g carbo (3.8 g fiber); 288 mg sodium; 21 mg chol.

10 Pack lunch If you take a few minutes

to put your lunch together instead of reaching for a packaged or take-out meal, you’ll likely eat fewer calories, make healthier food choices, and part with less cash.

3 ideas to gourmet brown-bag it

» toss mixed greens

9 Enjoy your joe

If you think coffee’s only benefit is the morning jolt, here’s another reason to drink up: New research suggests it may actually be good for you, protecting against diabetes, increasing levels of HDL (the good cholesterol), reducing inflammation and the risk of some cancers, and even giving you more zip when you work out.

Cardamom coffee

A simple combo from southern India that only tastes indulgent. SIMMER crushed seeds from 1 cardamom pod and 3/4 cup low-fat milk in a small saucepan over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. HEAT 2/3 cup water almost to boiling. Put 3 tbsp. finely ground coffee in a drip cone set on a large mug . Pour water over grounds. STRAIN milk into coffee. Stir in sugar if you like. Serves 1. PER CUP 80 Cal., 20% (16 cal.) from fat; 6.5 g protein; 1.8 g fat (1.2 g sat.); 9.2 g carbo (0 g fiber); 85 mg sodium; 9.2 mg chol.

good for the earth

Coffee is the developing world’s second most valuable export commodity after petroleum. So think of the power behind each pound of beans we buy. Shadegrown coffee supports greater biodiversity. Fair-trade coffee guarantees growers a living wage.

with thin slices of roast chicken from last night’s dinner, plus canned chickpeas. Pack separate containers of lemon vinaigrette and whole-grain croutons, then toss at lunchtime. » dress up a salad of canned albacore (go to seafoodwatch. com for “best choice” details) with curry mayo and chopped grapes and stuff into whole-wheat pita. Add a pineapple, kiwi, and coconut salad. » wrap bacon, avocado, sprouts, hummus, and tomato in big wholewheat tortillas. Tuck in baked chips and a sports bottle with pomegranate juice.

good for the earth

Imagine the positive impact on landfills if we all toted lunches in reusable containers instead of tossing take-out trash. N

Sunset January 2011

Healthy living

Sunset January 2010

Comfort food

makeovers

3 all-time favorite Sunset recipes, slimmed down for the new year by amy machnak | photographs by annabelle breakey | food styling by Randy mon

January 2007

Lasagna with sausage ragù redux

44 g fat

SERVES 6 to 8 TIME 2 hours

Lasagna

with sausage ragù those instead. Just boil the noodles a few Layers of ragù and creamy, nutmeg-scented at a time for 2 minutes, plunge in an ice béchamel are a subtle departure from the bath, and dry before assembling. familiar cheese-laden lasagna favored by About 7 tbsp. butter many Americans; our version is actually closer 1 tbsp. vegetable oil to authentic Italian lasagna. However, 1/2 cup we each onion, carrots, and celery, cut into streamlined the ragù by using sweet Italian 1/4-in. dice sausage instead of the traditional beef, pork, 1 lb. bulk sweet Italian sausage (or 1 lb. and/or veal blend. sausage links removed from their casings) PREP AND COOK TIME 3 hours About 11/2 tsp. salt MAKES 6 to 8 servings 4 cups whole milk NOTES Imported, commercially produced 1/2 cup dry white wine dried lasagna noodles (the kind you boil 1 can (28 oz.) whole tomatoes, including juices, first) work well in this recipe, but if you can finely chopped or crushed with your hands find fresh noodles at a specialty shop, try Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup flour 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 12 oz. lasagna noodles (see Notes) 1 cup good-quality grated parmesan

1. In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt 2 tbsp. butter in oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Add carrots and celery and cook 5 more minutes. Add sausage and 1/2 tsp. salt, breaking up meat with a wooden spoon, and cook until meat loses its raw color. 2. Add 1 cup milk and cook over medium heat, stirring, until completely absorbed, 10 to 12 minutes. (The milk will appear

Lasagna with sausage ragù

Sunset January 2007

Today 12 g fat The makeover Turkey sausage subs for fattier pork, puréed cottage cheese mimics béchamel, and a splash of olive oil replaces nearly half a cup of butter.

Have a healthy and light Italian feast: sunset.com/light-feast

About 2 tbsp. olive oil, divided 1/2 cup each chopped onion, celery, and carrot 1 lb. turkey Italian sausage, casings removed 1 tsp. salt, divided 1 cup low-fat (1%) milk 1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Chardonnay 1 can (28 oz.) whole tomatoes, including juices, finely chopped or crushed with your hands 1 cup tomato juice 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, divided 21/2 cups low-fat (1%) cottage cheese 1 large egg 1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese, divided 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 12 oz. lasagna noodles

1. In a large, heavy saucepan, heat 1 tbsp. oil over medium heat. Add onion; sauté until golden, 5 minutes. Stir in celery and carrot; cook 5 more minutes. Add sausage and 1/2 tsp. salt, breaking up meat with a spoon, and cook until it loses its raw color. 2. Add milk and cook over medium heat, stirring, until completely evaporated, 10 to 12 minutes. (The mixture will appear quite curdled at this point.) Add wine and cook until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes and juice, bring

to a boil, lower heat, and gently simmer, uncovered. Cook ragù until liquid reduces by a third, about 30 minutes. Season with 1/4 tsp. pepper and remaining 1/2 tsp. salt. 3. In a food processor, whirl cottage cheese, egg, 1/4 cup parmesan, remaining 1/4 tsp. pepper, and the nutmeg until smooth. 4. Preheat oven to 375°. Cook lasagna noodles according to package directions; don’t overcook. Drain noodles and lay flat on kitchen towels without overlapping. Oil a 9- by 13-in. baking dish and spread with about 1/2 cup ragù. Add a single layer of noodles (for most brands this is 3 sheets per layer). Spread with a third of ragù, then top with another layer of noodles, half the cheese mixture, and another layer of noodles. Repeat layering, giving you 2 alternating layers of sauce and cheese. Cover with remaining third of ragù and sprinkle evenly with remaining parmesan. 5. Cover lasagna with oiled foil and bake until hot, 30 minutes. Let stand 15 minutes before serving. PER SERVING 407 Cal., 26% (104 cal.) from fat; 29 g protein; 12 g fat (3.6 g sat.); 47 g carbo (3.7 g fiber); 1,315 mg sodium; 74 mg chol.

Sunset January 2010

Healthy living

January 1987 50 g fat

Browny’s clam chowder revisited Today 6.9 g fat The makeover The original recipe, from a nowdefunct Seattle restaurant, called for a quart of heavy whipping cream––we used milk thickened with flour.

SERVES 6 to 8 TIME 1 hour 1 tbsp. olive oil 1 cup chopped onion 1/2 cup each chopped celery and carrot 1 tsp. minced garlic 4 strips bacon (4 oz.), chopped 1/4 cup flour 3 cups low-fat (1%) milk 11/2 lbs. red thin-skinned potatoes, cut into 1-in. chunks 4 cans (6.5 oz. each) chopped clams, drained 2 bottles (8 oz. each) clam juice 1 tsp. kosher salt 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1/2 to 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves 1/4 cup half-and-half

1. Heat oil in a 5- to 6-qt. pot over medium heat. Cook onion, celery, carrot, and garlic until softened, about 5 minutes. Transfer vegetables to a plate. 2. Cook bacon in pan, stirring, until crisp. Transfer bacon to paper towels to drain; discard all but 1 tbsp. drippings. 3. Add flour and cook, whisking constantly, until slightly browned, about 1 minute. Slowly add milk, whisking constantly and letting mixture bubble between additions. Add potatoes, clams, juice, salt, pepper, and reserved vegetables. 4. Simmer until potatoes are tender when pierced, about 25 minutes. Add thyme and half-and-half. Sprinkle with bacon. PER SERVING 191 Cal., 32% (62 cal.) from fat; 7.9 g protein; 6.9 g fat (2.5 g sat.); 25 g carbo (2.2 g fiber); 635 mg sodium; 19 mg chol.

Sunset January 2010

May 1979 36 g fat

Today 10 g fat

The makeover Egg whites replace half the original whole eggs; a graham cracker crust stands in for pie dough, low-fat cottage cheese for cream cheese, and Greek yogurt for sour cream.

Luscious but low-fat cheesecake SERVES 16 TIME 21/2 hours, plus at least 4 hours to chill 1 cup graham cracker crumbs 2 tbsp. butter, melted 2 cups plus 2 tbsp. sugar, divided 1 container (32 oz.) low-fat cottage cheese 2 packages (8 oz. each) neufch창tel cheese 1/4 cup flour 1 tsp. each vanilla extract and finely shredded lemon zest 1/4 tsp. salt 3 large eggs 3 large egg whites 1 cup low-fat (1%) Greek yogurt

1. Preheat oven to 325째. In a small bowl, combine graham cracker crumbs, butter, and 1 tbsp. sugar. Press into the bottom of a 9-in. springform pan. Bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, drain cottage cheese in a strainer 15 minutes. Whirl cottage cheese in a food processor until smooth. Add neufch창tel and 2 cups sugar and blend until no lumps remain. Then add flour, vanilla, lemon zest, salt, eggs, and egg whites and blend until mixture is smooth, scraping inside of bowl as needed. Pour into prepared pan. 3. Bake until edges are puffed slightly and center barely jiggles when pan is shaken gently, about 11/2 hours. Turn off oven, leave door slightly ajar, and let cheesecake sit in oven another 30 minutes. 4. Mix together yogurt and remaining 1 tbsp. sugar. Put cheesecake on a cooling rack. Carefully spread yogurt-sugar mixture over top of cheesecake and let cool completely. Chill, covered with foil, at least 4 hours. Run a thin knife around the outside of the cheesecake to loosen, remove side of pan, and slice cheesecake with a hot knife. PER SERVING 281 Cal., 33% (93 cal.) from fat; 12 g protein; 10 g fat (5.6 g sat.); 37 g carbo (0.2 g fiber); 393 mg sodium; 70 mg chol. N

Sunset January 2010

In the Western kitchen When you want to welcome a new neighbor, try â&#x20AC;Ś Italian chicken sausage and artichoke soup

Chicken soup

for every occasion And you thought it was just a cure for the common cold

By Amy Machnak | photographs by annabelle breakey | food styling by karen shinto

Sunset January 2011

Slug

When you want to impress your globe-trotting dinner guests, try … Chicken laksa

When you’re sick, but also sick of ordinary chicken soup, try … Thai chicken and rice soup

Sunset January 2011

In the Western kitchen last-minute chicken soup

Italian chicken sausage and artichoke soup SERVES 4 to 6 | 40 MINUTES We like the fennel flavor of Italian sausage, but any chicken sausage will work. 2 tbsp. olive oil 1 lb. Italian chicken sausage, casings removed and meat broken into chunks 3 cans (15 oz. each) reduced-sodium chicken broth 1 lb. frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and halved 1 bunch chard (1 lb.), stemmed and chopped Parmesan cheese Warm ciabatta bread

1. Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high

heat. Cook sausage until browned, stirring often, 10 minutes. Add broth, artichokes, and 2 cups water and bring to a boil. 2. Reduce heat to a simmer. Add chard and cook, covered, until wilted, about 3 minutes. Ladle soup into bowls and serve with freshly grated cheese and bread. PER 11/2-CUP SERVING 225 Cal., 51% (114 cal.) from fat; 20 g protein; 13 g fat (2.8 g sat.); 8.6 g carbo (5.2 g fiber); 611 mg sodium; 81 mg chol.

Chicken laksa SERVES 4 to 6 | 1 HOUR This spicy Malaysian soup may have a long list of ingredients, but it’s super easy. 2 tbsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. each black peppercorns, cumin seeds, and fennel seeds 4 cloves 1/4 tsp. ground turmeric 5 to 8 dried arbol chiles, stemmed 2 lemongrass stalks 3 tbsp. vegetable oil 1 lb. boned, skinned chicken thighs, cubed 1 tsp. shrimp paste* 3 large shallots, thinly sliced 1 can (13.5 oz.) coconut milk 1 qt. reduced-sodium chicken broth 2 tsp. sugar 3 tsp. kosher salt 1 cinnamon stick 6 oz. mung bean sprouts, rinsed 8 oz. wide rice noodles 1/3 cup each fresh mint and cilantro leaves, torn Lime wedges Sambal oelek chili paste*

1. Grind coriander, peppercorns, cumin,

fennel, cloves, turmeric, and chiles coarsely 84

Sunset January 2011

Boil tiny pasta in chicken broth until almost tender. Add thinly sliced greens; cook for a minute. Whisk in an egg and let it set. Slurp.

in a spice grinder. Peel tough outer layers from lemongrass, then mash core with a meat mallet or small, heavy frying pan. 2. Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add chicken, shrimp paste, shallots, and reserved spices and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, 2 minutes. 3. Pour in coconut milk, broth, sugar, and salt; add cinnamon and lemongrass. Bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, 20 minutes. 4. Boil bean sprouts in a large pot of boiling water until softened, 2 minutes. Transfer sprouts to a bowl. Add noodles to pot and cook until firm, 4 minutes. Drain; rinse well. 5. Divide sprouts and noodles among 6 bowls. Ladle in soup (remove cinnamon and lemongrass) and top with mint and cilantro. Serve with limes and sambal. *Find in the Asian aisle of a well-stocked grocery store or at an Asian market. PER 11/2-CUP SERVING 494 Cal., 46% (225 cal.) from fat; 27 g protein; 25 g fat (14 g sat.); 39 g carbo (2.7 g fiber); 1,455 mg sodium; 81 mg chol.

Thai chicken and rice soup SERVES 4 | 35 MINUTES In Thailand, this is served plain for breakfast, using leftover chicken. We’ve dressed it up with fresh herbs and fried shallots. 1 qt. reduced-sodium chicken broth 2 cups shredded rotisserie chicken 1 cup cooked rice 1/2 tsp. kosher salt 2 tbsp. minced fresh ginger 1/3 cup vegetable oil 2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 large shallot, thinly sliced 1 tbsp. flour 1/2 cup each cilantro and Thai basil leaves 1 red jalapeño, halved and sliced

1. Put broth in a large pot and bring to a simmer. Add chicken, rice, salt, and ginger; simmer 15 minutes to let flavors develop. 2. Heat oil in a small saucepan over high heat until it registers 350° on a deep-fry

thermometer. Fry garlic, turning constantly with a slotted spoon, until light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. 3. Put shallots in a small bowl and toss with flour to coat and break into rings. Fry shallots in same oil at 350° until golden brown. Drain on fresh paper towels. 4. Ladle soup into bowls. Top each with herbs, a sprinkle of fried garlic, a few slivers of fried shallot, and a few slices of jalapeño. PER 11/2-CUP SERVING 319 Cal., 58% (185 cal.) from fat; 18 g protein; 21 g fat (2.9 g sat.); 15 g carbo (0.5 g fiber); 397 mg sodium; 55 mg chol.

Matzo ball soup SERVES 4 to 6 | 2 HOURS We made our matzo balls small, for easier eating, but if you prefer 1 large ball per serving, divide the dough into 4 to 6 balls and boil them 10 minutes longer. 1 qt. reduced-sodium chicken broth 2 whole skinned chicken legs (drumstick and thigh) 4 large eggs 2 tbsp. vegetable oil 1/2 cup club soda 1 cup matzo meal 1/2 tsp. pepper 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided 1 cup each sliced carrots, chopped onion, and sliced celery 1/2 cup dill sprigs

1. Put broth, chicken, and 2 cups water in a large pot. Bring to a boil, then simmer 1 hour, skimming fat from broth as it cooks. 2. Mix eggs in a large bowl with a fork just to break up a little. Add oil, club soda, matzo meal, pepper, and 1/2 tsp. salt and mix well. Chill, covered, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours. 3. Remove chicken from broth (let broth continue to simmer). Let chicken cool about 15 minutes, then tear meat into shreds and discard bones. 4. Shape matzo dough into 1-in. balls using wet hands; add each ball to broth as you go. Cover broth and matzo balls and simmer 30 minutes. Add carrots, onion, celery, and remaining 1/2 tsp. salt and cook 5 minutes. Stir in chicken and heat until warm, 1 minute. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with dill. PER 11/2-CUP SERVING 263 Cal., 37% (96 cal.) from fat; 19 g protein; 11 g fat (2.3 g sat.); 23 g carbo (2 g fiber); 526 mg sodium; 192 mg chol. N

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When you miss your bubbe, try … Matzo ball soup

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Sunset January 2011