July 2008

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The amazing wine country you’ve never heard of Delicious steaks & party salads

Summer Secrets

Top 10 hidden beaches Q Plants you can’t kill––plus no-fail garden techniques Q Grilling tips from the pros Q Favorite under-the-radar mountain escape Q

Where is this secret beach?

Find out on page 70

JULY 2008

How to give your home

$4.99/$6.50 in Canada

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Beach house style

We take it for granted, but it’s the ultimate secret ingredient any chef will tell you that the key to great cooking isn’t technique or expensive equipment—it’s using salt properly.

Ironically, the most important seasoning in the kitchen is often relegated to the table, where it’s used to make bland food taste better, after the fact.

But season a steak with coarse salt before and right after grilling, and you get delicious, juicy meat with a crunchy exterior. A salad tastes fresher and more flavorful when tossed with a properly salted dressing. And a sprinkle of flaky salt on a dark chocolate tart brings out the dessert’s intensity and richness.

Without salt, cheese would taste like paste and potatoes would taste, well, like something dug out of the ground. Salt also affects the texture of food. It tenderizes meat and slows the development of yeast in bread dough, preventing the dough from over-rising and collapsing. Salt plays other roles too: It inhibits the growth of bacteria, and it pulls moisture from juicy vegetables like eggplant so they’ll fry without getting soggy.

Salt—the right kind, in the right amount—can transform your cooking. To get started, turn the page. by elaine johnson and amy machnak photographs by leigh beisch food styling by dan becker prop styling by sara slavin

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Chef’s tip Chocolate and flaky sea salt go together really well. The Salt cuts the sweetness and adds complexity and crunch. –Pastry Chef Kristy Choo, Jin Patisserie, Venice, CA

Salted chocolate tart

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Thin salt-and-pepper breadsticks; greens and herbs salad with classic vinaigrette

Greens and herbs salad with classic vinaigrette Most people tend to be timid about using enough salt in a vinaigrette, but the right amount—which may be different for each of us—really accents salad’s “green” flavors.

PREP TIME About 10 minutes MAKES 4 servings NOTES If chervil, a feathery herb with a faint licorice taste, is not available, use more tarragon. Use really flavorful olive oil and vinegar to help transform salad from ordinary to memorable.

6 cups (31/2 oz.) very loosely packed torn pieces of mild lettuce such as butter or oakleaf 1 tbsp. each small torn pieces of fresh tarragon, chervil (see Notes), and parsley leaves 2 tbsp. good-quality extra-virgin olive oil (see Notes) 2 tsp. good-quality red-wine vinegar (see Notes) 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper About 1/8 tsp. table salt or kosher salt

In a salad bowl, gently combine lettuce and herbs. In a small bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar, and pepper. Whisk in half of salt and taste dressing with a piece of lettuce. Add salt to taste. Pour dressing over salad and mix to coat greens.

PER SERVING 65 CAL., 98% (64 CAL.) FROM FAT; 0.4 G PROTEIN; 7.1 G FAT (1 G SAT.); 1 G CARBO (0.3 G FIBER); 75 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOL.

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WHY SIZE MATTERS Ultra-fine salt gives a light, even coverage, so it’s great for hard-tosprinkle foods like popcorn. Fine-grain is useful for all-purpose cooking. Medium- to coarse-grain adds sparkle and crunch to bread doughs and roasted meat and fish.

Save extra-coarse salt for seasoning pasta water or creating beds for oysters on the half shell.

Thin salt-and-pepper breadsticks Sprinkling with a moist, unrefined sea salt such as sel gris or fleur de sel will create wonderful bursts of saltiness. Kosher salt works, too, but the breadsticks will be drier and more uniform in flavor.

PREP AND COOK TIME About 2 hours, including about 45 minutes of rising time MAKES 32 1 package active dry yeast 3/4 tsp. table salt 2 tbsp. olive oil About 23/4 cups flour, divided 1 to 2 tbsp. beaten egg (from 1 large egg) 11/4 tsp. medium-grain sel gris or fleur de sel, or kosher salt (see Notes) 1 tsp. freshly ground coarse black pepper

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer or a large mixing bowl, dissolve yeast in 1 cup warm water (110°), about 5 minutes.

2. Add table salt, olive oil, and 11/2 cups flour. Beat with a paddle attachment at medium speed or a wooden spoon until dough is stretchy, 1 to 2 minutes. Mix in enough additional flour to make a soft dough, a little more than 1 cup. Knead with a dough hook, or by hand on a floured work surface, adding flour as needed to prevent sticking, until dough is smooth, springy, and no longer sticky, 8 to 12 minutes.

3. Sprinkle a 10-in.-square work surface with 1/4 cup flour and turn dough out onto it. Pat dough into an even 6-in. square.

Loosely cover with a towel and let stand until puffy, 45 to 50 minutes.

4. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets (each 12 by 17 in.) with parchment paper. With a sharp knife, cut dough vertically into 4 strips. Working with 1 quarter at a time, cut vertically again into 8 pieces, sprinkling knife with flour if dough sticks. Pick up 1 piece and stretch it to the length of the pan, then set in pan. Repeat with remaining pieces, arranging them slightly apart.

5. Gently brush breadsticks with egg to coat, then sprinkle with sel gris and pepper.

6. Bake breadsticks until golden and crisp in thickest parts, 45 to 50 minutes; halfway through, gently separate any stucktogether breadsticks, and switch pan positions if using 1 oven.

PER 2-BREADSTICK SERVING 89 CAL., 20% (18 CAL.) FROM FAT; 2.3 G PROTEIN; 2 G FAT (0.3 G SAT.); 15 G CARBO (0.6 G FIBER); 147 MG SODIUM; 4 MG CHOL.

Salt-crusted beets with avocado, lavender, and thyme Chef Jeremy Fox of Ubuntu restaurant in Napa roasts beets in an aromatic salt crust that infuses the kitchen and the beets with the fragrance of flowers and herbs. We’ve highlighted them in this simple salad.

PREP AND COOK TIME About 21/2 hours MAKES 6 servings NOTES To keep the beets from getting too salty, trim and scrub them enough to remove dirt but not the skin. To loosen the baked salt from the pan, soak in water.

4 large egg whites, beaten to blend 1 box (3 lbs.) plus 1/4 tsp. kosher salt 1/3 cup chopped plus 1/2 tsp. minced fresh thyme leaves 1/4 cup plus 1/4 tsp. minced dried lavender 2 tbsp. black peppercorns 3 each medium red and golden beets (13/4 lbs. total without tops), trimmed and gently scrubbed (see Notes)

Shakin’ out the salts The number of different salts on the market is staggering, and choosing the right one can make a big difference in your cooking.

Here’s a quick guide to regular salts––and some gourmet ones too.

Table salt (1) The familiar, fine-

grained standby. Anti-caking agents keep it free-flowing. Iodine, a mineral essential for proper thyroid functioning and mental development, may be added too. Table salt is either mined from the earth or evaporated from seawater. USES Allaround cooking; preferred by bakers because it measures uniformly and dissolves quickly.

1

Flavored salt The best contain

naturally derived flavors and range from smoky to citrusy to chile-hot.

Originally for ceremonial use, Hawaiian red salt (2)—white sea salt with ‘alaea clay added— is gaining a following with cooks for its brick red color and earthy flavor.

Now there’s black Hawaiian salt (7), with charcoal blended in.

USES Great on steaks and veggies.

2

Sea salt Made from evaporated

seawater. Refined sea salt (5) is the least expensive; it has the dryness and uniform flavor of table salt, but without any additives.

Unrefined sea salts are moist, irregular crystals that still retain trace minerals, subtle flavors, and, sometimes, colors from the source.

Connoisseurs particularly prize French fleur de sel (8) (“flower of salt”), delicate crystals that form on top of evaporation ponds, and coarser sel gris (6) (“gray salt”), from the lower layers. USES Sea salt is available in fine to coarse grains.

Fine-textured refined or unrefined works well for all-purpose cooking and seasoning. Unrefined mediumto coarse-grain sea salt makes flavorful, stick-able toppings for dough, fish, and meat. Try expensive artisanal “finishing salts” at the table, where you can appreciate their nuances.

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Kosher salt (3) A coarse-grained salt used for koshering (drawing blood out of) meat and favored by many cooks for its clean taste and pinchable texture. USES General cooking, salt crusting, brining, and margarita rimming. If substituting for table salt, you’ll need twice as much Diamond Crystal brand (its pyramid shape adds volume) or just slightly more flake-shaped Morton.

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6 4

Flake salt (4) Large, pretty crys-

Get more online

Check out sunset.com/salt for our favorite salt and food pairings, plus sources and an expanded list of tasty salts. Two of our favorite salt sellers: The Meadow (atthemeadow. com or 888/388-4633) and SaltWorks (saltworks.us or 800/353-7258).

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tals with a delicate crunch. The thin, hollow pyramid shape (which breaks easily into flakes) allows this salt to perch on food so you get a pop of saltiness when you bite into it. USES Sprinkle over a Caprese salad or dot over a scoop or two of rich ice cream.

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Chef’s tip Salt-crusting seasons food evenly, imparts complex spice flavors, and makes a great presentation when you crack open the crust. –Chef Jeremy Fox, Ubuntu, Napa

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3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp. Champagne vinegar 1 tsp. minced shallot 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 firm-ripe avocado, cut into small wedges 2 cups (11/4 oz.) loosely packed mâche

1. Preheat oven to 425°. In a large bowl, combine egg whites, 3 lbs. salt, 1/3 cup thyme, 1/4 cup lavender, peppercorns, and 1/2 cup water, mixing with your hands until salt is evenly coated and feels like wet sand.

2. Spoon enough of the salt mixture into a 9- by 13-in. baking pan to make a 1/4-in. layer in pan. Arrange beets on top without letting them touch. Mound remaining salt over each beet, pressing with hands to cover completely and make a crust.

3. Bake beets until very tender when pierced through salt, about 11/4 hours.

4. Poke tip of a table knife into salt crust about 1 in. from a beet and tap with mallet to crack crust. Move and tap knife in 1/2-in. increments in a circle around beet. Break beet free from crust and lift out. Repeat with remaining beets. Let beets stand until cool enough to handle.

5. In a medium bowl, whisk together olive oil, vinegar, shallot, pepper, and remaining salt, thyme, and lavender.

Spoon 1 tbsp. dressing into a second bowl and 1/2 tbsp. dressing into a third bowl.

6. Brush remaining salt off beets with a pastry brush. Peel beets and cut into thin wedges. Add golden beets and avocado to largest amount of dressing. Add red beets to bowl with 1 tbsp. dressing, and mâche to bowl with 1/2 tbsp. dressing.

Gently mix each to coat. Divide beets, avocado, and mâche among 6 salad plates.

Salt-crusted beets with avocado, lavender, and thyme

(a solution of water, salt, and aromatics) adds moisture and flavor.

PREP AND COOK TIME 1 hour, plus overnight marinating MAKES 4 servings NOTES Marmalade can be made 1 day ahead and chilled, then reheated to serve.

When you can’t find fresh peaches, use frozen—they work well here.

Grilled pork chops with brownsugar brine and onion-peach marmalade

cup plus 1 tsp. kosher salt cup packed light brown sugar 1 sprig plus 2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary 3 tsp. black peppercorns, divided 1 cup ice cubes 4 bone-in center-cut pork chops (13/4 lbs. total) 3 tbsp. olive oil, divided 4 cups sliced white onions 2 cups chopped peeled peaches (see Notes) 1/3 cup granulated sugar 3 tbsp. sherry vinegar

Because modern pork is very lean, the meat can easily dry out when cooked. Using a brine

1. In a large pot, bring 7 cups water to a boil. Remove from heat and add 1/2 cup

PER SERVING 157 CAL., 69% (108 CAL.) FROM FAT; 2.1 G PROTEIN; 12 G FAT (1.8 G SAT.); 12 G CARBO (1.7 G FIBER); SODIUM N/A; 0 MG CHOL.

1/2 1/2

salt, the brown sugar, rosemary sprig, and 2 tsp. peppercorns, stirring until salt and sugar are dissolved. Add ice cubes and chill until cold. Place pork in brine and set a plate on top to keep meat completely submerged. Cover with plastic wrap and chill overnight.

2. Heat 2 tbsp. oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add onions and cook, stirring often, until transparent and starting to brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Turn heat to low; add peaches, granulated sugar, vinegar, and remaining 1 tsp. peppercorns.

Cook, stirring often, until marmalade is caramelized and sticky, 40 minutes. Stir in remaining 1 tsp. salt and 2 tsp. rosemary.

3. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium heat (350° to 400°; you can hold your hand 5 in. above cooking grate for only 5 to 7 seconds). Remove pork from brine and pat dry. Brush pork all over with remaining 1 tbsp. oil.

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Dietary friend or foe?

IT DEPENDS ON YOUR PERSPECTIVE 4. Grill pork, covered, turning once, until meat is done the way you like it, about 10 minutes for medium-rare (145°; cut to test). Transfer pork to a platter, tent with foil, and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Serve with marmalade.

PER SERVING 526 CAL., 41% (216 CAL.) FROM FAT; 34 G PROTEIN; 24 G FAT (6.5 G SAT.); 44 G CARBO (4.3 G FIBER); SODIUM N/A; 88 MG CHOL.

Salted chocolate tart We prefer Maldon sea salt for sprinkling onto this tart. Its large flakes look striking against the glossy chocolate surface, and its crunchy texture contrasts beautifully with the smooth, velvety filling.

PREP AND COOK TIME 11/2 hours, plus at least 11/2 hours of cooling time MAKES 16 servings NOTES Maldon sea salt is available at many grocery stores, but if you can’t find it, a high-quality fleur de sel is a good substitute. You can make and chill the tart up to 8 hours ahead, but bring it to room temperature before serving.

Chocolate crust: 6 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened 3/4 cup powdered sugar 11/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling 1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutchprocessed) 5 large egg yolks Chocolate filling: 8 oz. extra-bittersweet top-quality chocolate, such as Callebaut or Valrhona, chopped 3/4 cup unsalted butter 1/3 cup plus 1 tbsp. sugar 1/4 cup brewed coffee 4 large eggs Chocolate glaze: 4 oz. extra-bittersweet top-quality chocolate, such as Callebaut or Valrhona, chopped 2 tbsp. light corn syrup 1/3 cup heavy whipping cream 2 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened Maldon sea salt for sprinkling (see Notes)

1. For the crust: In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar on medium speed until smooth. In a separate bowl, sift together flour and 80

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cocoa powder, then add to butter mixture and mix until combined. Add yolks and mix on low speed just until dough comes together. If small pieces remain, knead dough to blend them in. Form dough into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill for at least 1 hour and up to 3 days.

2. Unwrap dough and set on a lightly floured work surface. With short strokes from center outward, roll into a 12-in. circle. Transfer dough to a 91/2-in tart pan and, using your thumb, press into sides and bottom corner. Trim dough flush with top edge. Line shell with parchment paper, completely fill with dried beans or pie weights, and chill at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350°.

3. Bake dough 10 minutes, then remove parchment and beans and return to oven until dough looks dry, about 5 minutes.

Set on a rack to cool slightly.

4. For the filling: Put chocolate in a medium-size heatproof bowl. In a medium saucepan, combine butter, sugar, and coffee and bring to a boil over medium heat. Pour hot liquid over chocolate and let sit 3 to 4 minutes, then gently stir until smooth. Break eggs into a large bowl and slowly pour in warm chocolate mixture, whisking constantly until incorporated.

5. Pour warm filling into still-warm tart shell. Bake until filling has risen slightly, appears dry on surface, and seems firm when shaken slightly, about 10 minutes.

Set on a rack and let cool completely.

6. For the glaze: Put chocolate and corn syrup in a medium bowl. In a microwavesafe container, heat cream to boiling; pour over chocolate. Add butter and stir slowly until smooth, working in one direction to prevent air bubbles from forming (if butter doesn’t melt completely, microwave in 5-second intervals to warm slightly).

7. Pour glaze onto center of tart and use a small spatula to push glaze to edges. Let sit at least 15 minutes to set up before slicing. Serve with Maldon salt for sprinkling.

PER SERVING 372 CAL., 65% (243 CAL.) FROM FAT; 5.4 G PROTEIN; 27 G FAT (15 G SAT.); 33 G CARBO (1.2 G FIBER); 27 MG SODIUM; 165 MG CHOL. N

While many chefs consider salt their most important seasoning, doctors blame it for raising blood pressure. (Sodium in very modest amounts, however, is essential for good health.) The American Medical Association and other health-advocacy groups have urged the FDA to limit the amount of sodium in processed foods.

Why FOCUS ON PROCESSED FOOD?

Of the 4,000 mg of sodium the average American adult consumes daily, about 75 percent is served up in processed food. Another 10 percent occurs naturally in fresh ingredients. The rest is what we add in cooking and at the table.

KNOW YOUR SODIUM GUIDELINES

The USDA recommends that adults limit themselves to 2,300 mg of sodium a day, the amount in 1 tsp. of table salt. For those in the salt-sensitive category (anyone over 50, of African descent, or with high blood pressure), the guideline shrinks to only 1,500 mg of sodium.

PRACTICE MODERATION If you fall into the group for higher sodiumsensitivity or are concerned about your blood pressure, talk to your doctor. It’s still okay to cook with salt in moderation if you’re in good health, eat plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables (diets high in potassium and calcium help lower blood pressure), and keep active.

In any case, it’s prudent to limit your intake of high-sodium processed and prepared food.

Chef’s tip Brining makes meat juicy; also, the aromatics in the liquid are absorbed by the meat, so you get perfect seasoning every time. –Chef Mark Sullivan, Spruce, San Francisco

Grilled pork chops with brown-sugar brine and onion-peach marmalade

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