March 2012

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living in the west March 2012

LIVING IN THE WEST

Best modern Mexican food | 10 spring escapes | front-yard facelifts | Tofu for meat lovers | the thrill of the backroad

What to cook now

Our Best

Mex

Fresh takes on the West’s favorite food

Quick spring escapes Top hikes, drives, beaches & spas

panuchos

with chicken & habanero sauce P. 68

MARCH 2012

sunset.com

visit us at Sunset.com

Front-yard facelifts

Plants & flowers that make all the difference

Tofu for meat lovers Anne Lamott on the thrill of the backroad

By Amy Machnak photographs by annabelle breakey

Dinner with friends

Appetizers

for dinner!

food styling: Karen Shinto; Portrait: Michael Harlan Turkell

After all, they’re everyone’s favorite course. And with this rustic yet modern menu––adapted from San Francisco chef Chris Cosentino’s new book of starters––you really won’t miss the mains

Menu for 8 Artichokes with mint and lemon Spring lamb roasted with mint and garlic Egg and anchovy crostini strawberries with balsamic and black pepper

Recipes adapted from Beginnings: My Way to Start a Meal (Olive Press; $25) by Chris Cosentino, due out in May. Sunset March 2012

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Dinner with friends

Spring lamb roasted with mint and garlic SERVES 8 | 1 HOUR We doubled this recipe so it could serve as a main course. Lamb loins are amazingly tender and flavorful but also expensive; we found that cheaper lamb shoulder roast (although tougher) works too. Just cook it a little longer—about 10 minutes more.

Anchovy butter 1/2

cup unsalted butter, at room temperature cup minced yellow onion 1 salt-packed anchovy, rinsed and minced 3 tbsp. chopped mint leaves Zest of 1 lemon 1/2 tsp. each sea salt and pepper 1/2

Lamb

pasta dinners in a flash:

2 tbsp. olive oil 2 boned lamb loins (4 lbs.)

1 garlic head, cut in half crosswise 1 bunch mint, ends trimmed

mouse color, (fill) sunset.com/pastaTowithchange direct selection tool use layer palette to select

Artichokes with mint and lemon SERVES 6 to 8 | 30 MINUTES Because this is such a simple salad, it’s important to use super-fresh vegetables and top-quality olive oil and cheese.

1/2

lemon, plus 3 tbsp. juice 10 baby artichokes 5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 tsp. sea salt 1/4 tsp. pepper 8 oz. wild or baby arugula 1/4 cup torn mint leaves Wedge of parmigiano-reggiano cheese

1. Fill a large bowl halfway with cold

water and squeeze in juice from 1/2 lemon.

Working with 1 artichoke at a time, break 96

Sunset March 2012

To change background color (fill), with direct selection tool (hollow arrow) in layer palette to select “background shape” layer, then choose color from swatch palette.

1. Make butter: Put ingredients into bowl

“compound shape” layer and shape layer, then choose color from swatch palette.

of a mixer and beat until smooth. change mouse tail (stroke), with direct selection tool use layer palette to select off outer leaves at the base. Continue To“mousetail” 2. Prepare lamb: Preheat oven to 425°. layer, then choose color from swatch palette. removing leaves until only innermost Heat a large cast-iron frying pan over high tender yellow leaves remain. Cut artichokes heat until very hot. Add oil and swirl pan crosswise and discard prickly tips. Trim all to coat. Put lamb in center of pan. Put but 1 in. of stem, then trim outer layer of garlic halves on either side of lamb, cut stem and the base to remove any dark sides up, and lay mint over garlic. Cook green bits. Put into lemon water. lamb, turning once, until well browned, 2. Mix remaining 3 tbsp. lemon juice, the about 4 minutes on each side. oil, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Working 3. Put pan with lamb in oven to roast until with 1 artichoke at a time, blot dry, then meat reaches 125° on a meat thermometer, shave lengthwise with a mandoline or 12 to 14 minutes for medium-rare. a vegetable peeler into the oil mixture.

4. Transfer lamb to a cutting board and 3. Add arugula and mint to artichokes; tent with foil. Let rest 10 minutes before toss to coat. Divide salad among plates, slicing. Serve with mint and garlic on the then shave cheese over each. side and a dollop of anchovy butter on PER SERVING 150 Cal., 69% (104 cal.) from fat; the warm lamb slices.

6.2 g protein; 12 g fat (3.6 g sat.); 7.3 g carbo (3.6 g fiber); 242 mg sodium; 9.5 mg chol.

PER SERVING 647 Cal., 70% (456 cal.) from fat; 41 g protein; 51 g fat (23 g sat.); 4.7 g carbo (0.8 g fiber); 227 mg sodium; 189 mg chol. >98

Dinner with friends

Egg and anchovy crostini SERVES 8 | 35 MINUTES Instead of using ordinary canned anchovies, Chris Cosentino uses marinated white anchovies, which have a fresher, cleaner taste. They’re a staple ingredient at Incanto, his San Francisco restaurant.

Sea salt 4 extra-large eggs 12-in. length of baguette (21/2 to 3 in. wide), split lengthwise 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Pepper 1 lemon 16 marinated white anchovy fillets* 2 tbsp. roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tbsp. chive pieces (about 1/2 in. long)

1. Fill a bowl with ice water and salt. Bring

a saucepan of water to a boil and lower in eggs with a spoon; cook 61/2 minutes for a softly set egg. Transfer eggs to salted ice water (salt helps the shells come off more easily) and cool completely, about 5 minutes. Peel eggs and set aside.

2. Preheat broiler with a rack set 4 in. from heat. Brush baguette with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste.

Toast bread, turning once, until warm and golden brown, about 5 minutes.

Rub cut side of bread with whole lemon to extract oils from peel.

3. Use a 11/2-in. round cutter to cut 4 evenly spaced holes in each baguette half, or use a knife and scoop out with a spoon. Slice bread crosswise between holes into 8 pieces.

Dolce 4. Cut eggs in half crosswise and set an

egg into each hole. Sprinkle eggs with salt and pepper. Lay 2 anchovies over each and sprinkle with parsley and chives. *Find in well-stocked grocery stores or Italian markets, or substitute good-quality regular canned or jarred anchovies that you’ve tossed in a little sherry vinaigrette.

Chris suggests a simple spring dessert of quartered strawberries drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar and a few grinds of black pepper.

PER SERVING 179 Cal., 35% (62 cal.) from fat; 9.9 g protein; 7.1 g fat (1.6 g sat.); 20 g carbo (1.1 g fiber); 546 mg sodium; 125 mg chol.

And to drink? Try Chris Cosentino’s Italian wine picks, or our from-the-West alternatives For egg crostini A not overly yeasty Chardonnaystyle sparkling wine, with nice purity of fruit.

Italian: Ca’ del Bosco Cuvée Prestige Brut NV (Franciacorta; $40) Western: Iron Horse 2006 Ocean Reserve (Green Valley of Russian River Valley; $40) 98

Sunset March 2012

For salad A crisp white with great minerality and high acidity, both requirements for the artichokes.

Italian: Benito Ferrara 2009 “Vigna Cicogna” Greco di Tufo (Tufo; $25) Western: Mayacamas 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Mt. Veeder–Napa Valley; $25)

FOr Roast lamb A nice earthy red, with flavors of dried flowers, cherries, and tea leaves.

Italian: Bonavita 2008 (Faro; $38) Western: Palmina 2006 Nebbiolo (Santa Barbara County; $30)

For strawberry dessert A sweet, slightly fizzy dessert wine with bright berry and rose-petal qualities.

Italian: Bava 2010 “Rosetta” (Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco; $20) Western: Mumm Napa NV “Cuvée M” (Napa Valley; $22) ■

Feel-good foods

GOOD FOR YOU

These homemade broths add lots of flavor without lots of salt.

soup a habit Stock the freezer with your own broth, and a healthy dinner is minutes away

By Amy Machnak | photographs by annabelle breakey 90

Sunset March 2012

food styling: Robyn Valarik

Make

Making broth

1

Simmer

Put all ingredients (see options below) in a large pot and add 4 quarts water. Bring to a boil and spoon off any foam that forms on top. Reduce heat and simmer until broth is reduced by half, 21/2 to 3 hours.

2

Strain

3

Package

Pour mixture through a strainer into a bowl and let broth cool; discard the stuff in the strainer.

+Quick soup ideas for your broth asian Chicken and herb Heat it up with toasted garlic, shredded chicken, cooked rice, and herbs such as mint and Thai basil.

Ladle broth into quart-size freezer bags or containers (great for soup) and/or ice cube trays (handy for sauces), and freeze for up to 6 months; transfer the cubes to bags once they’re solid.

Sausage and greens Simmer with browned Italian turkey sausage, chard, and stewed tomatoes; top with shredded asiago cheese.

Easy vegetable broth MAKES ABOUT 2 QTS. | 4 HOURS 1 large onion, roughly chopped 3 medium carrots, peeled and roughly chopped 3 celery stalks, roughly chopped 2 large leeks, white and light green parts only, roughly chopped, rinsed well 8 oz. mushrooms 1 bunch parsley PER CUP 14 Cal., 5% (0.7 cal.) from fat; 0.6 g protein; 0.1 g fat (0 g sat.); 3 g carbo (0 g fiber); 19 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Easy chicken broth MAKES ABOUT 2 QTS. | 4 HOURS About 2 lbs. chicken bones (from 1 large chicken) or chicken wings 1 large onion, roughly chopped 3 medium carrots, peeled and roughly chopped 3 celery stalks, roughly chopped

Mediterranean Add cooked chickpeas, marinated artichoke hearts, and parsley leaves; serve with crusty bread.

PER CUP 41 Cal., 33% (14 cal.) from fat; 5.6 g protein; 1.5 g fat (0.4 g sat.); 1.3 g carbo (0 g fiber); 32 mg sodium; 1.5 mg chol.

Easy Rich dark chicken broth Use ingredients for Easy Chicken Broth, but before simmering, roast bones and vegetables with a little oil in a 350° oven until browned, about 30 minutes. ■

15 favorite soups and chowders: sunset.com/soup

To change background color (fill), with direct selection tool (hollow arrow) in layer palette to select “background shape” layer, then choose color from swatch palette.

To change mouse color, (fill) with direct selection tool use layer palette to select “compound shape” layer and shape layer, then choose color from swatch palette.

To change mouse tail (stroke), with direct selection tool use layer palette to select “mousetail” layer, then choose color from swatch palette.