M AGA ZINE WINTER 2018
U G LY N E V E R L O O K E D S O G O O D
F RO M I C O N TO C L O S E T
GUCCI
gucci.com
AND YOU, WHAT WOULD YOU DO FOR LOVE?
DIOR
A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Influence Magazine is a fashion magazine
that
goes
beyond
the
runway to see exactly what makes clothing items fashionable. Celebrities lead the way in fashion trends and Influence magazine explains how these trends are sticking around. With the recurrence of classic 90’s and 80’s styles at the doorstep, celebmeaning to living in the past. Taking commonly
seen
styles
from
the
decades and reincarnating them in
TYLER NIX
rity fashion has given a whole new
2018. Celebrities aren’t the only ones living in the past as the trends fall into daily life from “ugly” dad shoes to iconic silk blue shirts.
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UGLY NEVER LOOKED SO GOOD B Y STOFF YOKTA O rig ina lly published o n vog ue .com
IDGAF s ty l e i s h e r e t o st ay a s c e l e b r i t i e s lead the way i n c l o t h i n g i t e m s d e si g n e d fo r comfo r t i n st e a d o f g l a m .
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VIA PINTEREST
I,
like you, have lost hours of my
ly unchic outfits. I receive press
It was 18 months ago that Demna
life thinking about Justin Bieber
releases about Davidson’s long-
Gvasalia pivoted his Balenciaga
and Hailey Baldwin. Not about
sleeved tees, Bieber’s sweatpants,
menswear away from reverent in-
their young love, but about their
and the many, many, many fanny
terpretations of Cristóbal’s codes
truly wild style. Bieber’s proposal
packs worn by Hollywood’s new
toward corporate-geek cool; one
outfit—an oversize striped tee, bas-
class of style icons. Believe it or
year ago, he sent out actual dads on
ketball shorts, and Adidas shower
not, there are real-life celebrations
the runway. And the look doesn’t
slides—received almost as much
of Hill’s style (one of which he re-
seem to be going away any time
coverage as the proposal itself.
cently attended). Justin O’Shea, a
soon.
“What happened to getting dressed
dapper dude by every count, told
up for important moments?” the
my colleague he found rapper Post
bad
Internet clamored. But Bieber is
Malone to be a harbinger of “where
there have been gym shorts, there
not alone in his endorsement of
menswear is going [rather] than
have been people looking ratty in
what he himself has referred to as a
where it is now.”
them—inasmuch as it is about the
The trend isn’t as much about taste
existing—as
long
as
Joe Dirt aesthetic. Along with Pete
This is a case of trickle-up
hodgepodge style of looking like
Davidson, Jonah Hill, John Mayer,
fashion, where the totems of dad
you don’t care at all coming into
and Shia LaBeouf, a new wave of
style—tube
socks, medium-wash
fashion. Perhaps it has something
unkempt, unruly fashion dudes is
jeans, and thick-soled sneakers—
to do with all of us feeling unin-
on the rise.
have ascended from actual dads
spired by the status quo? In 1996,
What’s impressive about these
to Hollywood It boys to the mens-
following a season of bad taste
guys is that they have won a certain
wear runways, with brands like Off-
runway shows from Marc Jacobs,
level of fashion-world fame, or at
White, Martine Rose, and Versace
Helmut Lang, and Versace—looks
least attention, for their decided-
issuing their own takes on dadcore.
that are polar opposites of what we
4
would consider bad taste today—
to signal that you can be accept-
Cathy Horyn wrote in Vogue, “One
ing of yourself as you actually are,
way to affect boredom is to appear
imperfect,
indifferent to bad taste.” Bored,
greasy hair. You don’t, you won’t
we are, and that indifference has
aspire to G.P.’s apron-free cooking
spread like an “In My Feelings”
in a white, shirred-neck dress
meme throughout Hollywood and
because you know that is bogus.
Soho and Aspen and London and
Aspiration is over. Aspiration is for
Paris and wherever aloof, malcon-
suckers. Yes, Stewart can glam it up
tented but well-off 20-somethings
as good as, if not better, than the
What about women with IDGAF style, you ask? Let’s institute Stewart
a
Kristen
Apprecia-
tion Day where we pull the waistband of our Calvins high above our jorts. I think women deserve
‘‘
Especially when we have Gwyneth Paltrow as the wellness-espousing oracle who cooks a perfect dinner in a white dress with no apron. As a woman, someone is always telling you to want some-
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best of them, but she will forever be the woman
That’s the secret of bad taste: It gives u a freedom that any fashion trend with rules can not.
this—especially now.
with
kicks off her stilettos at Cannes, and slinks up the red carpet barefoot with
’’ with
a
delightful
smirk on her face. That’s the secret of bad taste: It gives us a freedom that any fashion trend
rules—Philophile
Slimane-era preppy,
who
strictness,
new
romantic,
nunnery, grungy, femme
fatale, prairie folk, retro, whatever—can not. It’s not about being
thing, to be better, to improve—and
a
victim
of
fashion
diktats
now the thing you’re supposed
anymore. When you feel good,
to aspire to is some better-off
you look good—and isn’t that
Sliding Doors version of yourself.
what our wellness-centric life-
Bad taste is the line being
style has taught us? So feel good,
drawn in the sand. Stewart’s tribe
look good, live it up—and pass
of messily composed women seem
the Crocs!
P O O J A C H AU D H A RY
post selfies from.
struggling,
BU R BELondon, R RY England
FROM ICON TO CLOSET BY LI A N A S AT E N STEIN O ri g i n a l ly p u bl i s hed on vogu e . c o m
Ca n a p iece be too iconic to wear ? On e w riter cons iders the s truggle.
T
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his weekend, I bought a Gucci
I acquired this very close-to-
shirt. Not just any Gucci shirt, but
my-heart piece at a sale at James
the blue silk one from Fall 1995,
Veloria in Chinatown. Their first
the collection where Tom Ford
in-house designer capsule sale just
really “arrived at Gucci.” Kate
so happened to be focused on Tom
Moss—as in the peak Kate Moss
Ford during his tenure at Gucci
that comes to mind when we think
and later at Saint Laurent. (Fun
of “Kate Moss”—wore it on the
fact: I’m a huge, die-hard fan of
runway, then Madonna wore it to
Tom Ford–era Gucci.) I had seen
the MTV Video Music Awards that
the owners post the shirt on Insta-
same year. She sported her hair in
gram. It was like seeing an animal
a babelicious bouffant and had a
that was thought to be extinct in
slight altercation with Courtney
the wild. Or maybe it was similar to
Love. I now own that very same
the feeling those avid bird watch-
shirt that has been seared into
ers had when they spotted that
pop-culture history, linked to the
Mandarin duck that mysterious-
good ole days of fashion. Mind
ly appeared in Central Park a few
you, this silk shirt feels and looks
weeks ago. It was exciting. It made
like a million dollars. When I put
me feel some sort of way. I didn’t
it on, it’s like I’m being kissed by
just want it, I needed it.
thousands of angels with virgin lips
Like any shopper rabidly ob-
made of clouds. The color is blue.
sessed with something, I arrived
But not just any basic blue. If I had
well before the sale started at 1:00
to describe the hue, it would be
p.m. and simply waited. (I paced
like a sexy night swim in the kind
back and forth a bit.) When those
of crystal clear tropical ocean that
doors opened, I made a beeline
exists only in a 1-800-Sandals
toward the shirt as if I was pos-
commercial.
sessed by 1,000 Black Friday shop-
V I A G E T T Y I M AG E S
FRANK UYT DEN BOGAARD
pers. I held it close to me the
Pro tip: Don’t apply that CBD-in-
whole time I was there. For one
fused deodorant you got off the
moment, I put it down to comment
free table at work. It’s chock-full
on a friend trying on a coat and
of oil. I blotted it carefully, welp-
I saw a strange hand curious-
ing and cooing like I was trying
ly fondle it. “Nope,” I said, “This
to take care of a scraped knee on
is mine.” I have never so coolly
my newborn child.
spent $250 on something. I didn’t
realized that wearing this shirt—
even bat an eyelash. My upcoming
or rather, owning this shirt—was
student loan automatic withdraw-
going to be tough.
And then, I
al? That didn’t exist. In fact, for 48
See, no one tells you about the
hours, while I basked in my new
hidden price of buying something
shirt, nothing else existed.
very precious—so precious, you
When Monday rolled around, I
can’t really even wear it. That sort
could not wait to wear it. I ceremo-
of purchase comes with its own set
niously put in on myself, buttoning
of issues. First, it’s expensive. I’ll
each button slowly and proudly.
have to dry-clean that oil stain. (My
Suddenly, there was an issue, and it
colleague recommended I send it
was seeping through the underarm.
out to a fancy dry cleaners in the
Bronx, a move that will most likely
recently acquired. “I guess I should
set me back close to a quarter of
just wear the trench since it’s so
the price that I paid.)
beautiful and I spent so much
I couldn’t properly eat my
on it,” she says, “But if anything
lunch. I was scared I’d sudden-
happened to it, I would burn all
ly dribble mashed potato on it.
my possessions and go live in the
(Full disclosure: To quell my fears,
woods forever.”
I wore a makeshift bib out of a
Extreme, yes, but I get it. A rare
sweater.) I felt like I was wearing
item evokes a special type of feeling.
a really luxurious straitjacket that
She signed off with a wise word of
was being pulled tighter by the fact
advice. “Watch out for salad dress-
that I don’t have a shred of dispos-
ing,” she says. “It has oil.” Noted.
able income and no, I’m not a ce-
As for Culture Editor Alessandra
lebrity who has a blasé attitude toward clothes. I’m not the only one who has a difficult relationship with precious pieces. The Vogue office has a running joke that Fashion News Editor Monica Kim will one
‘‘
Codinha, who I con-
The moral here being: If you got it, flaunt it. Always.
day open a shop called Monica’s Closet because she has so many pristine archival pieces that she has never worn but, according to her, are worth just owning. “I have so many items I can’t wear because I need to preserve them,”
’’
sider a voice of elegant reason, she has a door-die attitude. “I inherited a gold-embroidered velvet opera coat from my great-grandmother that I never wore because I was so scared about it being destroyed
on my watch and now it’s since really fallen apart in storage, and I regret it all the time,” she says. “The moral here being: If you got it, flaunt it. Always.” So where do I fall in this, or
she says. “But I’m an obsessive
where does this Gucci shirt fall?
vintage collector, so a part of me
Enclosed in plastic, in a vault in
feels fine just knowing they’re
my closet while I default on my
happily hanging in my closet. Then
student loans? Maybe I’ll just be
again, good clothes are made to be
reckless and wear it everywhere I
worn . . . .” She quickly backtracked
can? I am not sure where I stand.
when talking about a white leather
But one thing’s certain: I sure as
Martin Margiela–era Hermès trench
hell won’t be eating salad dressing
coat from Spring 2002 that she had
as long as I wear it.
INFLUENCE MAGAZINE
11
VERSACE pour femme
black crystal
WINTER 2018 $3.95 US
$5.95 CAN
V. 1 N o . 4