FASHION AND VISUAL MERCHANDISING By Madeleine Heal
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CONTENTS PAGE
1. Front Cover
2. Contents Page
3. Task 1-‐ Interview a Visual Merchandiser
4. Task 2-‐ Advertising, Promotion and Visual Merchandising
5. Task 3-‐ Choose a National Brand and Discuss how they reinforce their Brand Identity
6. Task 4-‐ Prepare a Visual Display of Clothes, Shoes and Accessories
7. Task 4-‐ Final Visual Display
8. Task 4-‐ Visual Display Analysis
9. Task 5-‐ Use of Mannequins and other Human Forms
10. Task 6-‐ Identify New trends in Visual Merchandising
11. Task 7-‐ Mind Map
12. Task 7-‐ Mind Map Analysis
13. Task7-‐ Mood Board
14. Task 7-‐ Sketches of my Final Display
15. Task 7-‐ Mood Board and Sketches Analysis
16. Take 8-‐ Analysis of Themed Window Display
17. Task 9-‐ A Final Visual Plan of your Proposed Themed Window Display 18. Task 9-‐ Final Visual Display Analysis 2 19. Task 10-‐ Evaluation. Bibliography & Appendices
T A S K 1 : I N T E R V I E W A V I S U A L M E R C H A N D I S E R WHO I INTERVIEWED Susie Harrison-‐ Visual Merchandiser at Ruby Rooms, The Broadway, Leigh-‐on-‐Sea Essex INTERVIEW How would you describe your job role in three words? Creative, challenging, rewarding What does being a visual merchandiser consist of? My role consists of coming up with ways to reinvent the merchandise and the overall look of the store that is appropriate and representative of the season and any special holidays such as Christmas and valentines. I also have to make sure the visual merchandising and product placement in the store matches the window displays so that there is fluidity from walking past to walking around the store. How important is your role within the retail environment? I would say my role is very important as it is as what i do is what the customer sees, it is a massive part of their reason for purchase and their reason to come into the store in the first place. If the store is not aesthetically pleasing they will move on to something more exciting. Does a visual merchandiser work with anyone else? It depends on who you work for, in a small, independent business like this it is just me as I can manage everything but for a big company such as Topshop there would be whole team consisting of a manager, supervisor, coordinator and associate that all work on the visual merchandising of the store. Are there guidelines you have to follow or do you have free reign? Again due to the independence of the shop apart from obviously consulting with the owners I pretty much am free to create and design something I feel is appropriate. 3
T A S K 2 : A D V E R T I S I N G , P R O M O T I O N A N D V I S U A L M E R C H A N D I S I N G
Choose a store in West Quay and discuss how their visual merchandising links to a particular promotion or event This is the current window display of the H&M store in West Quay. The visual merchandising used here clearly links to summer time. They have used 5 black female mannequins which contrast with the white background and flooring and also the bright colours of the props and the garments that they are wearing. They have styled their display around summer by dressing all of the mannequins in their latest swimwear and beachwear range. The colours are bright and bold, showing the transaction into the new season as before the colour was very neutral and nude. Yellow has been used in all aspects of the display which is the key colour usually associated with summer (the sun). The two giant posters behind the display also show models with deep suntans on the beach, wearing bikinis. The use of the obscure transparent boxes are a modern twist on the usual summer window displays, showing that H&M have new trends to offer the consumer for this season. As a whole I think that they have successfully used their visual merchandising to promote their new summer line.
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T A S K 3 : C H O O S E A N A T I O N A L B R A N D & D I S C U S S H O W T H E Y R E I N F O R C E T H E I R B R A N D I D E N T I T Y CHOSEN BRAND
HollisterCo.
Many stores have a particular brand identity that they reinforce within their store by means of retail design and visual merchandising. Hollister is an extreme example of this. Due to a choice made by Hollister Co. They do not advertise at all outside of their store which means that when they open their shop doors this is their only opportunity to attract customers and show the consumer what they are all about. Hollister are an all American, natural, beach themed brand. They have a target audience of the young, trendy and preppy which you can see in the first image. This ideal lifestyle is created and emphasises by many things such as the design of all their stores nationwide; which are constructed to look like beach huts as you can see in the central image. This theme is carried on throughout the store as you can see in the third image; the décor is very casual and homely as though inside a beach hut/bar. The clothes and products are all fitting with this theme and are displayed on mannequins, shelves and clothes rails throughout the store which is then divided into men-‐ Ǯ ǯ Ǯ ǯ ǯǤ ǡ own fragrance is strong within the store, all of this gives the customer a complete Hollister experience, which leaves a definite memory of the shopping experience. Therefore I would definitely say that their visual merchandising techniques are successful due to their popularity worldwide.
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TASK 4: PREPARE A VISUAL DISPLAY OF CLOTHES, SHOES AND ACCESSORIES
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Within my still life display I wanted to try and encapture my entire theme, and all the elements that make it whole. I used a window sill that overlooked the garden and trees to suggest an enchanted forest setting, I then enhanced that idea with soft lighting and different colour back glow on each image. The shoe, apple and sleeping mask represent the different Disney Princesses that would be involved in my final window display. The flowers and modern stiletto show suggested seduction but I added the bra to enhance this further, so that the contrast between innocence and seduction was made greater but in a subtle way. This is also very in keeping with my chosen brand.
TASK 4-‐ FINAL VISUAL DISPLAY
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TASK 4: VISUAL DISPLAY ANALYSIS
I chose this image because I think that it successfully summarises and captures my entire theme by its use of props, colour and texture. I wanted to portray innocence, enchantment and seduction which I think that it does. PROPS: The shoe-‐ I used the shoes to represent the Disney Princess Cinderella. However I used a nude patent stiletto to contrast with the innocent connotations Cinderella and Disney bring, therefore I felt that this particular shoe was still girly enough to represent Disney yet sexy enough to represent seduction. The Apple-‐ this represents the Disney Princess Snow White and also portrays innocence but at the same time represents sin as it is what Eve ate against Godǯs wishes in the bible. Therefore it became the perfect prop for my theme. The Bra-‐ the bra represents the lingerie I would be displaying and the brand in which I am visual merchandising for (Victoriaǯs Secret). The Sleeping Mask-‐ This represents the Princess Sleeping Beauty. The Flowers-‐ these enhance the enchanted garden that the background of trees create. They also represent the Disney Princess Belle from Beauty and the Beast and add a feminine touch to the image. The flowers also tie in all the colours. The fur Throw-‐ this represents lust as it leads to connotations of a bed. The rich texture adds an expensive feel to the image which also represents the brand. LIGHTING: I softened the image and added a glow to create a fairytale feel. I also added colour to the apple to make it stand out slightly against the soft nude and pink tones as this is the prop I want the most attention to be on. I also added a pastel pink soft edging to really highlight the magical fairytale vibe that Disney brings.
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TASK 5: USE OF MANNEQUINS AND OTHER HUMAN FORMS A mannequin is used to display and promote the clothes that are sold in that particular store, therefore the aim is to use mannequins that replicate the ideal human form; resulting in the clothes looking better and an increase in sales. Mannequins come in different forms: male, female and child being the most common types; all of which are life size and have adjustable arms and legs which enables the visual merchandiser to change the poses which in turn makes them look more realistic. The torso is another extremely popular and common type of mannequin it has no limbs and usually no head. These can be places on top of tables and shelves which mean they are perfect for when space is limited. They are also easy to maintain and are very mobile. They also come in male, female and child models. This kind of mannequin is usually used to model underwear or tops/shirts.
The head is another type of mannequin commonly used to model hats, sunglasses and wigs. Retailers use this rather than the full bodied ones as they are more cost efficient if only the head is needed to display the product. Like the torso the head can be placed almost anywhere and is a huge space saver. The head mannequins are usually made from plastic or vinyl but can sometimes be found made from foam as cheaper alternative. The final type of mannequin that is available is the abstract mannequin. These are very similar to the realistic, human form models but have a lot less detail. They are usually faceless and have slightly different body shapes. These are used mainly in high end window displays in stores such as Selfridges to create a surreal, abstract visual display. They also aid sales as they allow greater focus to be on the product they are displaying due to their lack of detail. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/66806 As you can see from the images on the left I have chosen Hollister again. The store uses the life size mannequins however they are headless, allowing all the focus to be on the clothes. The mannequins have the ideal human body form in both the male and the female reflecting a healthy Ǥ Ǯ ifestyle that Hollister promotes throughout their stores across the world.
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TASK 6: IDENTIFY NEW TRENDS IN VISUAL MERCHANDISING
After looking round West Quay indoor shopping centre in Southampton as well as the shops along Oxford Circus in London I noticed two different trends appearing in regard to the visual merchandising techniques the stores were using. One being more theme than technique as almost all of the stores in both areas have adopted a spring/summer theme, they are showing this by way of a prominent pastel colour palette being shown through the use of props, mannequins and clothes. Beach themes and spring florals are reigning in most window displays. The neutral colours of winter have definitely been pushed out by the primary and pastel colours. This new trend means that the store windows are a lot more eye catching and can have slightly less detail than before as the colours attract the customer so less is needed in terms of props and setting. Another trend I noticed was the use of the computer screens, displaying offers and products that are sold within that store. The apple shops were first to do this with the launch of their touch screen i-‐pod. Thomas cook, O2 and HMV are all stores that have followed ǯ Ǥ ee it to be a tunring point in the way in which stores portray their stock. By using computer and led screens it allows the newest and most up to date technology to attract the customer rather than simply relying on mannequins and props.
An example of one of the Apple Stores Interactive computer screen windows displays.
http://www.iclarified.com/images/news/1888/8093/8093.jpg
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TASK 7: MIND MAP Disney
THEMES
Royalty
Between 5 & 7 mannequins
MANNEQUINS
Enchanted
Magical/Fairytale
Female: Small framed, detailed, small waist, hips and boobs
7 Deadly Sins
COLOURS &STYLES
Realistic-‐ full body with hair also
ǯ body shape
Dark side of Disney
Princesses
Surreal-‐make something innocent sexual (Disney princess) Victoria Secrets Fashion Shows-‐ Big Bold, lively, sexy, fantasy
INSPIRATION Snow white/Sleeping Beauty
Disney princess colour scheme Items that replicate Disney princess
Agent Provocateur-‐ high-‐end, experimental, sexy
Lingerie, nightwear, swimwear
Normal Clothes: Vivienne Westwood (surreal) strong themes
BRAND & LOCATION
Nina Ricci-‐ apple perfume (fantasy-‐ snow white)
Main city, London, NYC, Paris, Milan, Vegas-‐lots of people big impact
ǯ -‐fun, always changing, strong themes 11
Bold-‐ eye catching RED (seductive)
MY VISUAL DISPLAY
Sexy/provocative
Alice in Wonderland
Pastel Colours-‐ pinks, lilacs
Apple, shoe, long hair, sleeping mask PROPS
Mixing sex and innocence-‐ juxtaposition
TASK 7: MIND MAP ANALYSIS
As I already knew roughly what my theme was for my Visual window display I used my mind map as a way of exploring what it was about the fairytale/ Disney theme that I liked, what inspired me in the first place and how exactly I would execute it. I decided that I although I wanted to use that as a base theme I wanted to do something more with it that had not been done before.. On this idea I decided that I wanted to create a window display showcasing lingerie instead of clothes, I then narrowed down my brands to what I thought the two best underwear stores were which were Argent Provocateur as it is sexy, high-‐end and extravagant. The second brand I ǯ nd that is always changing and showcasing big, bold themes. Based on this research I decided to go with them as a brand and create a window display for their flagship New York store and this would be right in the middle of the city for everyone to see. I still wanted to incorporate Disney so I decided to re create the Disney princesses but in lingerie instead of dresses. This adds a seductive twist and juxtaposes the original innocence associated with Disney. I also wanted to create the idea of the sin lust to make the display sexy and fun. Using 5-‐7 realistic mannequins I would create the Original Princesses but instead of wearing ball gowns it would Lingerie that is displayed.
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TASK 7: MOOD BOARD
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TASK 7: SKETCHES OF MY VISUAL DISPLAY
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TASK 7: MOOD BOARD AND SKETCH ANALYSIS The board I created is basically a complete visual representation of my entire mind-‐map. I have gathered together images in which have inspired my theme and idea by way of colours, layout, product and props. The Disney Princess triangle formation shown in the top left hand side is the exact formation I want my mannequins in the shop window. I think this would be effective due to its link with Disney but also in its symmetry. The images show the mix of seduc ǯ animation portraying how I would tastefully and respectfully combine the two themes. I drew six rough sketches of my final window display ideas. The first is an Alice in Wonderland themed display which I would display lingerie hanging from the ceiling and being poured in to the giant tea cup I would mix the AIW props with the items I wanted to display. It would be busy with lots of bright colour and no mannequins. The second one is a mermaid themed display inspired by ǯ Ǯ ǯǢ sitting in a giant clamshell that would be encrusted with crystals. She would be sitting on a pile of lingerie instead of a pearl. The third display is a take on the five main Disney Princesses in the well known and commonly pictured triangle formation. However instead of ball gowns they would be in bedroom attire, each holding a prop that symbolizes which character they are. The writing would be large and sparkly making it eye catching and the mannequins would be realistic female models. The fourth is an enchanted forest display with trees and a mountain scene. It would have a tribal theme within in it, inspired by Pocahontas. It would consist of seven mannequins all abstract form and female coming from within the tree props. The fifth display is much more minimalist and surreal than the others; it would be an all white colour scheme with a white transparent veil in front of a white pole on top of which would be a realistic female mannequin in white underwear and night gown. It would be lit dimly but enough to be able to see. The pole and mannequin would rotate. This was inspired by Sleeping Beauty. The sixth display inspired by Snow White and consists of a red lit window leading to connotations of brothels and sin which would also juxtapose with the innocence of the two female mannequins (snow white and the wicked witch) acting out the famous poisonous apple scenario. 15
TASK 8-‐ ANALYSIS OF THEMED WINDOW DISPLAY Strength of theme, use of colour, texture, light and design principles
Where is it? DUKE STREET GALLERY LONDON What is it? SCULPTURE OF A GIANT STILETTO What is it made from? STAINLESS STEEL Texture: SHINY, SMOOTH Colour: SILVER
Light: DUE TO THE METAL THE LIGHT IS REFLECTED BY THE LIDS WHICH CREATES A HIGH SHINE MAKING THE SCULTPURE EXTREMELY EYE CATCHING Design and strength of theme: I THINK THAT THIS IS VERY EFFECTIVE AS A WINDOW DISPLAY AS IT ENCAPTURES THE GLAMOUR OF THE LONDON STORES THAT SURROUND IT BUT COMBINES THIS WITH THE DOMESTIC, GRITTYNESS OF THE STREETS. How it inspired my theme: THIS REALLY INSPIRED ME FOR MANY REASONS, MY THEME REVOLOVES AROUND THE DISNEY PRINCESSES, ONE OF THEM BEING CINDERELLA (LOSES A GLASS SLIPPER) AND THIS CAPTURES THAT BUT JUXTAPOSES IT WITH SOMETHING THAT IS FOUND IN EVERYDAY LIFE AND NOT USUALLY ASSOCIATED WITH FAIYTALES (SAUCEPAN). THIS IS SIMILAR TO HOW I WANT TO COMBINE INNOCENCE AND SEDUCTION.
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TASK 9-‐ A FINAL VISUAL PLAN OF YOUR PROPOSED THEMED WINDOW DISPLAY
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TASK  9-Ââ€?  FINAL  VISUAL  PLAN  ANALYSIS  ǣ ‡™ ‘”Â? ‹–› Â‹Â…Â–Â‘Â”Â‹ÂƒÇŻÂ• ecret  store    Â
I  have  chosen  the  3rd  sketch  I  drew  as  the  window  display  I  wanted  for  my  final  version.    THEME:  Disney  combined  with  lust  and  seduction.  Dark  twist  on  an  innocent  childrens  animation-Ââ€?  attention  grabbing.   PRODUCT:  I  am  displaying  lingerie  and  raunchy  nightwear.  MANNEQUINS:  I  would  use  realistic,  slim,  female  models,  all  with  wigs  and  faces.   COLOUR:  the  window  would  be  softly  lit,  the  colours  would  mainly  be  pastels  and  each  mannequin  would  be  representing  a  different  Disney  Princess  in  their  original  colour  for  example  Belle  would  be  in  yellow  lingerie  and  Cinderella  would  be  in  blue  etc.   each  mannequin  would  be  lit  by  a  spotlight  representing  their  colour  from  underneath  them  making  them  glow  and  stand  out. Â
SETTING:  the  mannequin  would  be  stood  on  green  asrto  turf  to  give  the  effect  of  grass/enchanted  garden.  Within  this  would  be  little  flowers  such  as  daisies  and  tulips.  False  vines,  laden  with  blooming  flowers  would  fill  the  side  of  the  walls  again  creating  the  enchanted  garden/fairytale  theme.  This  also  gives  the  window  a  very  girly,  feminine  feel  creating  an  even  bigger  contrast  to  what  is  being  displayed.  The  back  wall  would  be  black  gloss,  very  different  to  the  rest  ‘ˆ –Š‡ ™‹Â?†‘™ ƒÂ?† ƒ…”‘•• ‹– ™‘—Ž† „‡ ™”‹––‡Â? ÇŽ Š‹Â?‰• ƒ”‡ Â?‘– ƒŽ™ƒ›• ™Šƒ– –Š‡› •‡‡Â?ÇŻ ‹Â? Š—‰‡ ‰Ž‹––‡” Ž‡––‡”• –Šƒ– ™‘—Ž† „‡ Ž‹–  from  the  sides  and  above  to  make  t  sparkle.  I  chose  these  words  because  it  represents  the  contrast  between  the  Disney  and  innocence  to  the  seduction  and  adult  connotation.   PROPS:  each  mannequin  would  be  holding  in  front  of  them  a  simple  prop  to  represent  further  what  Disney  Princess  they  are  meant  to  be.  The  props  would  be:  an  apple  (Snow  White),  Mirror  (Belle),  hair  down  to  the  floor  (Rapunzel),  Shoe  (Cinderella)  and  Sleeping  eye  mask  (Sleeping  Beauty).  Â
…Š‘•‡ Â‹Â…Â–Â‘Â”Â‹ÂƒÇŻÂ• ‡…”‡– ĥ Â?› „”ƒÂ?† „‡…ƒ—•‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡‹” ˆƒ•Š‹‘Â? •Š‘™•Ǥ Š‡› •Š‘™ –Šƒ– –Š‡Â?‡ ‹• –Š‡ Â?‘•– ‹Â?’‘”–ƒÂ?– –Š‹Â?‰ ‹Â? –Š‡ir  branding,  which  means  they  would  easily  be  able  to  adapt  and  create  mine  without  it  seeming  out  of  place.  They  could  even  base  one  of  their  famous  shows  around  the  Disney  theme.  As  my  display  would  mainly  attract  a  younger  generation  I  thought  VS  would  be  perfect  as  althou‰Š ‹– ‹• ‡š’‡Â?•‹˜‡ ‹– ‹•Â?ǯ– ‘˜‡” ’”‹…‡• Â?ƒÂ?‹Â?‰ ‹– ”‡ƒ†‹Ž› available  for  young  women,  whereas  brands  such  as  Agent  Provocateur  are  too  expensive  for  this  particular  concept.  Â
Šƒ˜‡ …Š‘•‡Â? –Š‡ ˆŽƒ‰ •Š‹’ Â‹Â…Â–Â‘Â”Â‹ÂƒÇŻÂ• ‡…”‡– •–‘”‡ ‹Â? ‡™ ‘”Â? ‹–› ĥ ’‹…–—”‡† ƒbove  because  it  is  their  biggest  and  most  successful  store.  The  colour  of  the  store-Ââ€?  black  and  pink  ties  in  with  my  themed  window  display  perfectly  and  their  large  open  windows  would  be  ideal  for  my  display.   18  Â
TASK 10-‐ EVALUATION
Overall I have found this unit very interesting. I have learnt a lot about visual merchandising as before I was unsure what a visual merchandiser really did or how they went about doing it. I feel like I have developed my knowledge and understanding with each task. I have really enjoyed coming up with a theme and concept for my own visual window display. I would have loved to of been able to execute it by putting my idea in a real window but I understand that the facilities are limited. I feel confident in my new knowledge of the subject and feel as though it would definitely benefit me if I was to go work in this field. The creativity of this unit has helped me develop strength where I thought I previously had weakness and has also enabled me to practice my new abilities with free reign. I feel that in a lot of tasks in other units I am very limited to what I can do and show but in this uni I was able to have full creative freedom which I thought was brilliant and helped me gain a better understanding and stronger passion for the subject. BIBLIOGRPAHY Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/66806 http://sociallysuperlative.com/wp-‐content/uploads/2010/01/victorias_secret-‐pic.jpg http://www.iclarified.com/images/news/1888/8093/8093.jpg RUBY ROOM IMAGE AND GIANT SHOE IMAGE TAKEN BY MYSELF ALL OTHER IMAGES NOT REFERENCED TAKEN FROM WWW.GOOGLE.COM/IMAGES
APPENDICIES Contact Details for Visual merchandiser interviewed in Task 1: Name: Susie Harrison
Tel: 01702 448653
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