BREAKING INTO THE CREATIVE INDUSTRY 1
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AI ME
IMPORTANT
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MASTHEAD Editor in Chief
MADALENA HERNANDEZ
Creative Direction
MADALENA HERNANDEZ IMOGEN CHONG MAXINE NTAMBWE
Deputy Editor Graphic Design
MAXINE NTAMBWE MADALENA HERNANDEZ
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SPECIAL THANKS GEORGE DAVID HODGSON Instagram: @maisondechoup
HARRY LANGHAM
Instagram: @goodness_uk
MELISSA SANGER Instagram: @melsanger
JAIME LLAVONA Instagram: @j4rte
ELEANOR STEPHENSON Instagram: @ellystephenson
NAVI AHLUWALIA
Instagram: @naviahluwalia
CURTIS WU
Instagram: @curtiswu_
BEN AND MATT
Depop: @sliced Instagram: @benographer @tysontornad0
HOUSE OF VINTAGE Depop: @laurenhouse
FRANKIE’S THRIFTS DEPOP: @frankie’sthrifts
MCOVERALS
Instagram: @mcoveralls
BEAUTYSTACK
Instagram: @beautystack
THE HAMBLEDON
Instagram: @thehambledon
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EDITOR’S LETTER INTRODUCING THE FIRST EDITION OF AIME MAGAZINE
In this edition of AIME magazine, Maxine Ntambwe, Imogen Chong and I take a look at the exciting ways in which Millenials are breaking into the creative industry as young entrepreneurs. In recent years, Millennials have been at the centre of a great deal of scrutiny from Generation X and the Baby Boomers, for being too sensitive, inexperienced, and ultimately unprepared for the challenges of the real world. Though it’s true that if you spend enough time with a Millennial, you are likely to get an earful about a whole host of ‘first word problems’, ranging from the burden of student loans to the effects of social media and the rising costs of living, the reality is, these problems exist. Homeownership rates have fallen to their lowest in half a century, and the shadow of economic uncertainty caused by Brexit has grown ever larger, making the ladder to success all the more challenging to climb for the Millennial generation. Despite such economic turmoil, it seems that there is one distinct and admirable trait that rings true with Millennials across the world - an innate ability to disrupt the status quo in favour of more socially, environmentally and ethically sensible lifestyle options. Whether this be through committing to a vegan diet, or skipping school to protest about climate change - they’re not afraid to stand up for what they believe in.
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“MILLENNIALS ARE THE GENERATION THAT’S FUN TO HATE” - Amanda Ruggeri
It’s not all doom and gloom for us Millennials however; advancements in technology and social media have opened up opportunities for self promotion and worldwide networking. AIME finds out a little more about the Millennials taking full advantage of these opportunities, shining light on their work and individual stories. If there’s one thing that we’ve learnt from this experience, it’s that they all have one thing in common - they’re driven by what they love, and won’t stop until they get to where they want. We think art auctioneer, Eleanor Stephenson, summarises this perfectly: “There’s a fine line between talking about projects and actually doing them, sometimes you’ve just got to get on with it.” (page 60) As well as work from AIME’s own editorial team, this edition features the work and opinions of some of our most talented friends, including entrepeneurs like George David Hodgson and Ben Lebus (Mob Kitchen).
EDITOR IN CHIEF
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10 WHO SAYS WE’RE SNOWFLAKES 14 INTERVIEW WITH GEORGE DAVID HODGSON, FOUNDER OF MAISON DE CHOUP
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24 MELISSA SANGER 36 NAVI AHLUWALIA 38 APP FIND: DOJO
40 GOODNESS
72 MOB KITCHEN
104 JAIME LLAVONA
50 NETWORKING EVENTS
80 MC OVERALLS
112 BEAUTY STOCK
100 GEN Z THINKS YOUR BRAND IS FAKE
116 DEPOP
60 ELEANOR STEPHENSON
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WHO SAYS WE’RE
BY MADALENA HERNANDEZ
SNOWFLAKES?
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hen I first started working on this magazine, I stumbled upon an article in the Harvard Business Review by Sarah Green Carmichael, entitled ‘Millennials Are Actually Workaholics, According to Research’. This article, bursting at the seams with statistical evidence, perfectly supports the point we will try to illustrate throughout this magazine - Millennials are driven and entrepreneurial. Somewhat ironically, this article also directed me to a number of headlines including the phrase ‘Snowflake Generation’, which, if you haven’t already heard, is a term used to summarise the attributes of today’s young adults - highly offendable, entitled, and less psychologically resilient than previous generations. So, is there any truth in that sobriquet – the Snowflake Generation? Putting our snowflake sensitivities aside, I focused on the media’s portrayal of Millennials as the lazy and unenthusiastic generation. I reflected on my findings from the first article (not to mention the motivated young people that we had begun interviewing), where I had learnt that 43% of work martyrs (someone who prioritises work over recreation) are in fact Millennials, and what’s more, is that 24% of Millennials are likely to forfeit unused vacation days, in comparison to only 19% of Gen X and 17% of Boomers (Harvard Business Review, 2016). 10
reality, this increase shows, more than anything else, the great headway that has been made by our generation, in eradicating stigmas around talking openly about mental health. However, there are also many reasons for this epidemic that have been overlooked by older generations.
On top of all this, Millenials are marrying much later than previous generations, with many prioritising success over romance. This evidence makes it increasingly hard to understand if these Millennialslandering articles really have a leg to stand on. The only consistency I could spot was the age of the journalists writing them... you guessed it.
The idea that our grandparents lived in a world without staggering university debts, and where homeownership seemed like an achievable goal, is an unimaginable prospect to the majority of Millennials. While we too have a lot to be grateful for, namely the privilege of living in a more diverse society where social minorities are more likely to receive the opportunities that they deserve, it wouldn’t be right to try and make sense of this mental health phenomenon without talking about the looming dark cloud cast by social media.
In many respects of course, there’s nothing new here. An older generation critiquing the next for ‘having it easy’ or ‘having the wrong attitude’ - it’s a tale as old as time. Only this time, it seems they’ve got their facts wrong. Now what about our mental fragility? The media is constantly using the rising number of mental health cases amongst young people as evidence of over-sensitivity. But of course, this is a blatant misinterpretation of the facts. In 11
Today, it’s hard to imagine a day not spent making endless comparisons against unrealistic expectations everywhere we turn on platforms like Instagram, something which our parents made a very lucky escape from, and something which they don’t truly understand the difficulty of growing up alongside. But perhaps rather than simply rejecting our ‘Snowflake’ reputation, we should instead think constructively about what we can learn from it. Though it would be crazy to detract from the incredibly important work done by mental health campaigners to help our generation feel more comfortable about opening up about their emotions, there is certainly an element to which our generation has sought to medicalise normality and to turn feelings into disorders, and in doing
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so, has partially damaged mental health’s integrity. At a time where Millennials throw terms like anxiety and depression into every other sentence, and Kendal Jenner’s experience of getting light headed on a plane quickly escalated to a full blown ‘panic attack’, one can only imagine the frustration that real sufferers are feeling, as their daily struggles are turned into colloquialisms.
Whether in romanticising disorders like anxiety and depression, or providing fuel for the real mental struggles of suffering Millenials, social media has certainly had its part to play in our generation’s mental health crisis. However, ambassadors like George David-Hodgson have sought to repurpose social media, using these sites as platforms to promote messages of positivity, and to fight the pressures they impose by empowering the voices of many online. George, who we can only describe as the perfect example of an ‘anti-Snowflake’, talks to AIME about how he has managed to translate his own struggles with mental health into the foundation of a successful fashion label. 13
MAISON DE CHOUP BY IMOGEN CHONG It’s a sunny afternoon in Winchester, and we’ve managed to tear George David Hodgson, founder of Maison de Choup, away from his busy routine. Bright, spacious and typically creative, the aesthetic of his co-creative office space aptly reflects the brand’s minimalist style. After introducing us to the team, George sheds some light on the story behind his successful fashion brand.. ‘Maison de Choup was started out of a period of my severe anxiety & OCD. I used to write down and draw all my thoughts and feelings in black notebooks. I then had the idea of printing them on to a t-shirt, using fashion as a vehicle to raise awareness and funds for mental health. The name ‘Maison de Choup’ came from when I was younger, ‘Choup’ was a nickname for my sister Charlotte. She was always there for me when I was going through my hard times, and still is, we are very close, so it is a dedication to that, ‘House of Charlotte’.
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We’ve seen that Maison de Choup works with a number of charities, how important was it to you to work alongside them [Young Minds, Heads Together]? Working alongside Young Minds is at the heart of the MdC brand. When I was at my worst, I used Young Mind’s website to find out more about my illness. I was very fortunate that my parents could afford to get me private help after being told by CAMHS that I would have to wait 40 weeks before receiving treatment. That’s why it was so important for me to partner with a charity that helped children and young people who didn’t have that privilege. It’s incredibly important that these young people get the support they need and that’s why we’re supporting YoungMinds and donating 25% of proceeds from certain designs to them. We also support the Heads Together campaign which spreads awareness for mental health via social media. I have also recently been appointed a youth advisor for The Shaw Mind Foundation. How has starting your own brand helped you? Designing my own products allowed me express my thoughts and feelings across in a creative and positive way.
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“YOU HAVE TO BELIEVE IN YOUR PRODUCT. IF YOU DON’T BELIEVE IN YOUR PRODUCT, THEN IT’S A PROBLEM.”
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Tell me about your designs. They are all very minimalistic as Maison de Choup focuses on minimalism. This is because I believe in promoting a message through the simplest form. My brand is all about simplicity but most importantly it’s about spreading a message. Every t-shirt and design has a meaning behind it, and when people understand that meaning, they then have a strong link to it. Since the launch of your brand, do you think that awareness around mental health has increased? Absolutely, I mean there is still a real stigma around it as it is still viewed as a taboo subject. Celebrities like Stormzy are openly talking about mental health, and with it being featured in the press almost everyday, it’s definitely becoming a huge talking point, especially with the royals getting involved. Obviously Maison plays a smaller part at the moment but it is starting a movement in the fashion industry, which is notoriously difficult for mental health problems due to its stressful and cut-throat nature. What advice would you give to young people who want to start their own brand? If you want to start your own brand just do it. If you think too much about doing something you’re never going to do it so go for it. Your either going to fly or fall but you will get up and realise you can do it, as you can do anything if you put your mind to it.
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Photography & Styling: Maxine Ntambwe & Imogen Chong Models: YiChen Bai & George David Hodgson 21
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BY MADALENA HERNANDEZ 23
As a 21 year old visual artist, whenever I’m photographing someone it’s important that the creativity of the shoot is a collaboration between the two of us. I like to work in a playful way, I’ll give my model a glass of wine and play some music they like so that they loosen up and become freer within their movements. To me, that’s where the magic is because we create a project that’s ours, as opposed to ‘the photographer’ robotically telling ‘the model’ what to do. I have a loyal relationship to 35mm film and I am fascinated with its ability to keep you focused on a present moment. I also take polaroid photos on each shoot and give my model their favourite, which is a little something I got from Wim Wenders, who believes a polaroid is this ethereal, nonrepeatable slice of time you can hold in your hand and keep forever.
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35mm Film
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MARCUS SIVYER
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ISSEY CROSS
SANTIAGO GIRALDO
LAURA BUTCHER
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GEORGIA FITZGERALD
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BARNABY CHAMBERS
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N ATA S H A B U S H
B R I A N W H I T TA K E R
K R I S TA C H E P I S H E VA
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NAVI AHLUWALIA
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I AM CURRENTLY... A Junior Account Executive at M&C Saatchi Sport & Entertainment
THIS YEAR MY GOAL IS TO... To create a zine.
A BRAND/ PERSON TO KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR IS... Kara Marni.
THE BIGGEST LESSON THAT I HAVE LEARNT THROUGH MY CREATIVE JOURNEY SO FAR IS... It’s okay to ask for help and having a full time job does not have to limit you.
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IMAGES TAKEN FROM DOJOAPP.CO
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APP FIND : DOJO BY MADALENA HERNANDEZ to keeping you in the loop of London-based events.
Sick of visiting the same overcrowded attractions every time you visit London? Bored of queuing at overated, mainstream music venues? Not to mention meeting friends at those over-priced and yuppie coffee shops, which always leave you wondering: what exactly did they put in my coffee for it to cost £5.70? Well, AIME’s got you covered, introducing: Dojo – the definitive London app, which I can guarantee will change your life (well make it more exciting at least).
Launched in 2014 by three Bristol graduates , the app aims to highlight events far away from the hustle and bustle of the usual hotspots.
Whether you’re a city worker looking for that perfect spot for after-work drinks, or a music junkie looking for the perfect hidden underground music venue, Dojo is the app for you.
The app is full of hidden gems, all listed under a range of extensive categories that cover pretty much everything you can think of: rainy day activities, rooftop drinking, restaurants, new openings, exhibitions, beer gardens, outdoor dining, pop ups, cheap eats, nights out and much more. Alternatively, if you’re still not sure exactly what activity you’re looking for, simply search for events ‘around you’ or by what’s going on daily.
If you’re not yet familiar with the Dojo app... you probably need to get out more. Dojo is a free online space dedicated
So download DOJO ASAP, keep it on the down low, and impress your friends by being ahead of the game.
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THE UK’S LATEST DANCE MUSIC COLLECTIVE
GOODNESS
The brainchild of a group of Oxford and UCL students Goodness - is a collective of likeminded DJs, producers, and music-lovers, committed to showing crowds across the nation what they’re about. Since March 2017, Goodness has been bringing the sounds of the UK underground to London, Oxford, Manchester and Bristol. Operating on a strictly musicfirst policy, their aim is to showcase the full perimeter of the scene, focusing on UK artists, but also welcoming sounds and styles from across the world. Over the past two years they’ve been joined by some amazing DJs and people, including Pearson Sound, Martyn, Skee Mask, Shanti Celeste, Overmono, Minor Science, Peach, Peverelist, Batu, Josey Rebelle, Sadar Bahar and many many more. HARRY LANGHAM
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TSHIRT LAUNCH Two years on, and Goodness have launched their first piece of merchandise.
This summer Goodness will be playing at Dimensions festival and at the Trigon Stage at Gottwood.
Stay tuned. Visit www.goodnessuk.com 42
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P H O T O G R A P H Y: A N T O N I O P E R R I C O N E
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2019 : NETWORKING EVENTS
27 FEB
6:30 PM – 8:00 PM
4 March 4:00 PM – 7:00 PM
6 MAR
6:45 PM – 8:00 PM
FASHION SAVVY: GETTING INVESTMENT FOR FASHION DESIGNERS.
LAUNCH & GROW YOUR FASHION STYLING BUSINESS.
HOW TO: IGNITE CREATIVITY. WITH STEPHEN BAYLEY AND ROGER MAVITY.
A networking event for aspiring designers wanting to start their own brands.
A talk by award-winning celebrity stylist, Kelly Lundberg, who will be inspiring people to be the best fashion stylist they can be.
Design guru Stephen Bayley and advertising executive Roger Mavity will shed light on the key to success in the creative world, sharing their own personal experiences.
By Heart Fashion
198 Contemporary Arts & Learning, 198 Railton Road, London, SE24 0JT
By Kelly Lundberg
2 Stephen Street Tottenham Court Road London, W1T 1AN
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By how to: Academy
Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design 16-17 Greek Street London, W1D 4DR
2019 : NETWORKING EVENTS
6-7 March 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM
MARKETING WEEK LIVE An event covering all aspects of the marketing mix in a live environment, inviting guests to enhance their knowledge on today’s ever-changing trends and techniques from industry specialists. Brand storytelling, data and analytics, social and content creation alongside key solution ideas.
11 APR
15 MAY
7:00 PM – 9:00 PM
7:00 PM – 9:00 PM
DRINK, SHOP & DO HOST NEON NAKED LIFE DRAWING CLASS!
GIRLS CAN DO ANYTHING.
By Neon Naked Life Drawing An evening of vibrant life drawing class using neon paint to create colourful and exciting artwork. Drink, Shop & Do, 9 Caledonian Road, London, N1 9DX
Olympia, London, W14 8UX
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By Library
Discussion and panel talk: Understanding the relevance and importance of strong female voices in 2019. The Library, 112 Saint Martin’s Lane, London, WC2N 4BD
AUTUMN DAZE
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P HO T OGR A PH Y : MA XIN E N TAM BW E STYLING: IM OGEN CHON G M O DE L S: N ATAL IE B OA KYE & M ONDELL W ILLIAM S M AKEUP: PH EBE ON W U C H EC KWA M U A
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ELEANOR STEPHENSON
ART HISTORY STUDENT AT THE COURTAULD INSTITUTE OF ART.
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I AM CURRENTLY...
Finishing my degree in Art History at the Courtauld Institute of Art as well as working for Phillips Auctioneers.
LAST YEAR I SAW A LOT OF...
Art platforms looking to make the art market more diverse, affordable and generally more exciting by supporting young talent. One of my favourite platforms has been Auc.Art. Setup by entrepreneur Natasha Arselan, Auc.Art is the first online auction to focus solely on artwork by recent graduates. I have a few friends who are successfully selling through this art platform, so it’s been really exciting to witness.
THIS YEAR I AM MOST EXCITED ABOUT...
I always look forward to the degree shows at CSM, Goldsmiths and Slade; seeing what the next generation of artists look like is pretty cool. Also, I am looking forward to painting this summer. Last summer I got the chance to paint in the crumpling studio of this old chateau in Normandy. Phillips holds a staff exhibition every August, so I got to show the painting in the Mayfair gallery for a month.
THE BIGGEST LESSON THAT I HAVE LEARNT DURING MY CREATIVE JOURNEY SO FAR IS..
I think passion and genuine interest amount to the best results, especially when you can collaborate with other creative minds. However, I think there’s a fine line between talking about projects and actually doing them, sometimes you’ve just got to get on with it.
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JULIÀ CORONAS
PHOTOGRAPHY : BY ZOÉ RYTZ & HARVEY WALLER
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C A R TA G E N A , C O L U M B I A
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H A R V E Y W A L L E R & ZOÉ RYTZ
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UNIVERSIDAD DE ANTIOQUIA
MEDELLÍN, COLUMBIA
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C A R TA G E N A , C O L U M B I A
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Benjamin Lebus (right) and the Mob Kitchen team
MEET THE MAN BEHIND THE MOB Ben Lebus, founder of online culinary sensation Mob Kitchen, talks tinder marketing, date night recipes and food faux pas. INTERVIEW BY HARRY LANGHAM
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en Lebus, the man behind online, culinary sensation Mob Kitchen, took over his parents’ kitchen a year ago, cooking twenty recipes in a weekend as part of a harebrained scheme to become the next big thing in the online foodie world, one might not have said the same – we can only imagine the mess.
ob Kitchen is born out of a simple idea: to feed four people for under £10. Through producing and publishing one-minute ‘how-to’ food videos online, Ben hopes to prove how easy it is to rustle up something quick, healthy and delicious in the kitchen. Sitting across a table at a café in Bermondsey,
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MOB KITCHEN @mobkitchenuk
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just opposite the studio in which he now operates (much to the relief of his parents), Ben tells me his story. As a student at Edinburgh University, Ben, whose father until recently ran an Italian restaurant in Oxford, was surprised to discover the lack of interest his peers showed in cooking. ‘Eating is one of the few things in our life, along with drinking and breathing, that all of us do every single day until we die, right? So why does no one teach you at school how to boil some pasta or scramble an egg or roast a chicken?’ He looks to me to share in his incredulity.
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would just be able to go into the kitchen and throw together a little pasta sauce,’ he explains, ‘whereas my mates had absolutely no clue, so they ended up just cooking bacon sarnies and pesto pasta every single night of the week. But then why would they have a clue,’ he continues, ‘they’ve never been taught.’
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MOB KITCHEN @mobkitchenuk
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en speaks passionately and it’s easy to understand why his remedy to the problem – Mob Kitchen’s trademark ‘Feed 4 or More For Under £10’ – has been so successful. ‘I wanted to do one with real prices, so that everyone with a ten pound note, regardless of who you are or what you have in your kitchen, could go and do it. You know, who the hell has a dusting of cumin lying around? Certainly not students.’
e may laugh, but it’s just this sort of determination, along with a fortuitous reunion with primary school friend and camera buff, Rupert, that saw Mob Kitchen’s fortunes change. Their content started to gain traction and brands began to pay for features. This success has allowed them to relocate to the studio in London, where they now host various guests including musicians, foodies and even primary school children.
his is the ethos of Mob Kitchen; it is incorporative – that much is clear from the name, and it’s the name that Ben identifies as one of the strongest features of the brand. ‘The fact that people who have never met me refer to themselves as ‘The Oxford Mob’ or ‘The Newcastle Mob’, that’s invaluable because they feel like they’re part of something, part of the Mob, part of a movement.’
he first time he is lost for words (Ben is the first to admit his gift of the gab) is when asked about his favourite date night recipe. ‘My girlfriend always says I don’t cook for her, but at the end of the day, the last thing I want to do is to cook another meal.’ He eventually opts for steamed salmon, cooked for ten minutes at 180 in a roasting tray covered with tin foil, with a splash of soy sauce, a splash of water, a handful of chopped ginger, a chopped red chilli and half a sliced lime.
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he road to success wasn’t entirely smooth, however. Around six months after he recorded those first recipes in his parents’ kitchen, Ben was out of content, living at home, and still yet to make any money. ‘I started working for Deliveroo, and would slip my recipes in pizza boxes. I was messaging everyone on Tinder I’d ever matched with, asking them to follow the page,’ he shakes his head and chuckles sheepishly.
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t is clear that this is just the beginning for Mob Kitchen, and Rupert sees the food element as just part of a wider Mob project, which encompasses music and events, as well as the culinary content for which they’ve made their name. ‘We’re still trying to find our feet as a company,’ he explains. ‘We’re very young and it’s all happening very quickly.’
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MOB KITCHEN @mobkitchenuk
I started working
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RHODA TOBI
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY MADALENA HERNANDEZ
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M.C.OVERALLS AN INTERVIEW WITH FOUNDER & CEO JAMES SCROGGS INTERVIEW BY IMOGEN CHONG business partner who also happens to own a sourcing house - it was a no brainer. This means that we have the ability to do the manufacturing, allowing us to be a relatively vertically integrated business, which is bit of a one off!
AIME speaks to the founder and CEO of London based fashion label, M.C.Overalls. We discuss the brand’s evolution over the last century, and its take on contemporary workwear. What brought you to M.C.Overalls?
How has the original concept of the brand evolved?
I’ve always been into men’s fashion but it wasn’t until being part of this business that I properly began exploring this passion. Entering this company was pure opportunism for me. I have worked with different startups before but this is a market that I have always watched purely from the sidelines. When I suddenly had the chance to take control of, and reinvent, our century year old brand, I thought wow, that doesn’t come along that often, and with a
The original concept came from the three guys who founded the brand back in 1908. At 17 years old they headed out of their Lithuanian village to find their fortune, with no idea that they would become cloth makers, let alone start creating uniforms for machinists during the war. That spirit of enterprise and not quite knowing what the answer is, is how I would describe myself,
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PHOTOGRAPHY: IMOGEN CHONG & MADALENA HERNANDEZ STYLING: IMOGEN CHONG & MAXINE NTAMBWE MODELS: GRACE AGHEDO & MONDELL WILLIAMS
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Cooper is one of the directors, so it was a family trademark which I have had the opportunity to reinvent. From experiences throughout my business career, my instinct told me that a heritage brand would be boring, as the world does not need another heritage brand. However, a contemporary workwear brand that uses the inspiration from such a unique back story, is in fact as interesting as it gets. It does not mean that down the line we won’t use the heritage card, but that is for when we have earned our stripes.
in the sense that I do not fully know the entirity of the business, but I am learning on the job, which can be very exciting. As a 46 year old man, I look at generations way behind me, and even the postMillennial generation or Centennial if you like, as they grew up in a world where there was no guarantee of work or a progressive career. That is why it is important to explore and try different things, and find out what it is that you are really good at. The brand’s original name is Morris Cooper Overalls, and the great grandson of Morris
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Finally, what are your thoughts on unisex clothing? Without meaning to sound like a strategist, I think that if you give it that label it all sounds wrong. We didn’t set out to create a unisex brand, we just aimed to design clothes that both men and women could enjoy, but of course, the way women buy our clothes is very different to how men buy them. We didn’t set out to find the mid point between both sexes, we just wanted to create a collection that doesn’t alienate either. I think the notion of women going into a menswear store and buying from the menswear section is a really exciting prospect. That doesn’t mean that the person who designed that menswear collection thought about aiming it towards women, or said I’m going to make this unisex. I just think we are in that space where men and women are trading from each other in terms of identity, in terms of lifestyle and fashion which for me is the future.
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DESIGNER/ STYLIST: CURTIS WU PHOTOGRAPHY: YINGWEI TANG ASSISTANT: HANJIE HUANG MUA/HAIR: KRISTINA PAVLOVIC MODELS: ALEKSANDRA MAY & JINGSI WANG
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GEN Z THINKS YOUR BRAND IS FAKE
GENERATION Z: a group of discerning, perceptive young adults with a particularly unique consumer behaviour. In short, Generation Z sees through the bullshit; if it’s not the truth, it won’t sell. Cast your mind back to April 2017. Kendall Jenner singlehandedly put a stop to social inequality with a humble can of Pepsi, and people weren’t having any of it. A myriad of baffled tweets Generation Z, sometimes known as ‘anti millennials’, closely followed the release faced some harsh realities whilst growing up. of the offending ad; ‘So we Economic recession, terrorism and the failed should just give Putin, Assad attempts of Generation Y siblings to leave the nest and Trump a can of Pepsi and were no joke, and as such shaped a generation everything will be fine?’ one of pragmatists. They are savvy consumers who user sarcastically quipped. value transparency and are good at identifying The sentiment seemed to it. If a brand is not 100% authentic, this group reflect that of Generation Z. will make sure all their friends know about it. Young people had become Last year John Zimmer, President of Lyft, was increasingly switched off to, subject to ridicule and second hand embarassment even adverse to, contrived following a disingenuous statement he made when and ‘try hard’ brand asked how his company would cash in recent messaging. So much so that failings by Uber. ‘We’re woke. Our community Pepsi sheepishly admitted is woke, and the US population is woke.’ It’s they’d ‘missed the mark’ cringeworthy enough that an exceedingly wealthy and pulled the campaign within 24 hours.
white business man would use an activist phrase to promote his business (the phrase ‘stay woke’ has origins with black activists, used to acknowledge their suffering). But when you consider it alongside the fact that black Lyft drivers earn over $2 less by the hour than their white colleagues, you’ve got the most uncomfortable brand of irony.
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Reaction to Zimmer’s declaration of ‘wokeness’ was, unsurprisingly, not sympathetic. Consumers these days are skilled at identifying and crucifying false displays of familiarity and relatability like this one, and take great pleasure in doing so; many were quick to point out that billionaire Lyst investor Peter Thiel is a close associate of the famously unwoke Donald Trump. Despite public criticism, Zimmer insists Lyft is ‘a better boyfriend’ than Uber; turns out there’s nothing quite like overt greed and corruption for making you want to stay single. Modern consumers have power of choice like never before and brands will fight like cat and dog to stay relevant. The prospect of being seen as out of touch or disconnected is too much to bear, a pepsi-esque disaster is one many smaller brands wouldn’t be able to bounce back from. Enter 17 year old Connor Blakley, a high school dropout who realised the worth of his experiences as part of generation Z, and put a price on them. Blakley set up his own youth marketing agency YouthLogic through which he advises brands on how to understand and engage with GENERATION Z. His budding, albeit very impressive, career has taught him one thing about his generation that he says companies ‘need to know’: it can’t be put in a box, it almost always comes off as fake.
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BY ISABELLA GEBBETT
It’s not all doom, gloom and epic PR fails, though. Some brands are ticking all the boxes, with authenticity right at the top. A 2016 survey identified Apple as the UK’s favourite ‘storytelling brand’, one which creates it’s own world and forges an emotional connection with consumers. Apple’s marketing is straightforward, free from gimmicks and focuses more on visuals than it does on cheesy sales pitches. Generation Z clearly approves, try and find anyone born after ’96 who doesn’t own an iPhone or MacBook if you want proof.
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The centennial customer wants a ‘don’t call me, I’ll call you’ relationship with brands. They won’t be pestered or manipulated into spending their hard earned cash, growing up surrounded by a constant stream of advertising has made them waaaay too smart for that. This doesn’t mean they can’t be marketed to, but it must be subtle and clever. So subtle and clever that anyone above the age of 40 would call it bizarre. Case in point, Red Bull’s 2016 ‘Can You Make It’ Challenge, an example of Guerrilla marketing at it’s weirdest and most wonderful. The campaign saw 100 teams from across the world travel across Europe using nothing but cans of red bull as currency.
Scores were partly based on social media likes and shares; Red Bull were cleverly working their way into our feeds, but it didn’t feel like a chore to watch... it didn’t feel like marketing. This is a cohort demands individuality, realness and human connection. It’s never been cool to be a try hard, but more so now than ever before. If a brand wants to connect with Generation z (and they all do) it’s gotta be real. Earlier this year Kendrick Lamar rapped ‘I’m so fucking sick and tired of the photoshop’, and quite honestly, he perfectly summed up the frustration of a generation that has had enough of mindless consumerism and disingenuous branding.
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I AM CURRENTLY... Learning new ways of seeing what’s around me. It puzzles me, as everything is constantly evolving and opening new ways of seeing things. I’m in the early
JAIME LLAVONA
days of the creation of this puzzle.
INTERIOR
THIS YEAR MY GOAL IS TO...
ARCHITECTURE
Move forward every day, not back.
STUDENT AT
It is a dream of mine to own a studio/
WESTMINSTER
workshop/flat but I am not sure if it will
UNIVERSITY.
happen this year.
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PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? I am just trying to do me with good company. I may have a clothing brand that I have been working on since 2014 coming out... hopefully.
THE BIGGEST LESSON THAT I HAVE LEARNT THROUGH MY CREATIVE JOURNEY SO FAR IS... To value myself, not just as an artist, but as a person. Knowing who I am and how to express myself has helped me realise what I have to offer.
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“ M Y F A M I LY ”
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“ W E A L L H AV E G O O D A N D B A D ”
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I see myself. Do you? A reflection of emotions through faces juxtaposing with its colours. We use words such as happy, sad, anxiety, depression, love… for the same utility as we have a cover of a book, therefore this is my way to represent such feelings, and I understand if my cover doesn’t speak to you, as we are entitled to our own opinion
JAIME LLAVONA
and we all express it in different ways. (but what is your own opinion)
On paper we are at the greatest point humanity has ever reached. The world is evolving and as every second goes by it is getting better and better. Imagine you are a spectator at a horse race, you bet on the horse and your horse wins. On paper that horse is better than any other; however that horse will die younger than your average wild horse, guaranteed. But you don’t care about that, won’t think about that, and anyway who the fuck cares - you have won your money.
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So, what am I writing about? Now think that every time that horse is
darkness and fear‌etc. Our emotions
competing it is making him die quicker,
are constantly being controlled by what
due to pressure and anxiety going
we engage with, which is where opinion
against his real purpose in life, which
is created, therefore ask yourself ‘how do
down to its roots you would say is to
you see yourself.’ A horse or a bidder.
reproduce and live and be part of
The bidder is part of the materialistic,
this strange non-purposeful
life. That
superficial, society and takes a joy out of
horse represents our brain slowly being
it - blindness. However the horse is unable
killed by social media, materialism, greed
to do anything about it as it is caged and
and judgement, creating these unwanted
entrapped. That is what 2019 is.
emotions such as anxiousness, sadness, You can choose who you become and alter your way of thinking. You can always choose to never bid on the horse at first. I see myself. Do you? Whatever your answer to this question is, it has been elaborated by judgements, comments, critiques..etc. mostly based upon
materialistic
&
non-existential
bullshit that you have picked up along your journey of life till now. So therefore ask yourself again and ignore
all
these
factors
that
are
irrelevant. Document them, never forget your mistakes. Move on.
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Better to live true to yourself for an instant
JAIME LLAVONA
than never know it
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JAIME LLAVONA
Daisy chains for your veins Enroute to memory lane Don’t be tame Disgusting fame Take off with ur plane This is all one massive game Your credit is your pain My best friend is my cigarette That turned from Once upon a time my lover was named Jane Had to leave her Time to catch my train Made sane 111
APP FIND : BEAUTYSTACK B Y M A X I N E N TA M B W E
P H O T O G R A P H S B Y B E A U T Y S TA C K
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The latest best thing to come to an app store near you is Beautystack, a beauty treatment application created by ‘WAH Nails’ founder Sharmadean Reid. Beautystack is the much needed link between Instagram beauty artists and consumers. It has all the convenience that its competitor Treatwell offers, whilst all the while being a curated community for emerging talents and aficionados in the beauty industry. The concept is clear: MUAs/Hair Stylists/ Nail Technicians are posted on the @beautystack Instagram page with a short bio about their work and an indication of when they’ll become ‘bookable’ on the application. Once users have downloaded the app - which has a format similar to Instagram - they are able to browse through a variety of beauty treatments and book appointments with creatives seen on Instagram. Voila! Every technology-loving millennial understands the importance of self-promotion via social media, and the as-seen-on-screen nature of this application leads you to trust that you won’t be disappointed with the treatments at hand. In a time where the term Millennial is (basically) synonymous with side-hussle: everyone knows someone trying to make a name for themself and showcase their talents on a wider scale, and Beautystack offers just that.
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THE ONLINE PLATFORM THAT HAS CREATED A GENERATION OF YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS. BY MADALENA HERNANDEZ
MODELS & PHOTOGRAPHY: IMOGEN
CHONG & MADALENA HERNANDEZ Launched in 2012, Depop has quickly become one of the world’s largest mobile marketplaces, with over 6 million users. Sellers primarily use the app to generate income, but also as a tool for self-promotion, with each user’s personal shop acting as a way to showcase their individual style. The popularity of vintage and second-hand designer garments today, has meant that many of Depop’s users are able to make considerable profits on items they’ve most likely sourced from charity shops. Whilst most use the platform to sell secondhand or designer items, others use it to market their own designs and launch brands. For many young people, the ease and accessibility of this app has made the prospect of upholding a regular 9-5 job much less appealing, and the app’s rising popularity is providing opportunities for a generation of entrepreneurs who see it as a more creative, relaxed and enjoyable way of making money. Weekends spent rummaging through thrift stores are part of the routine for users like ‘Frankie’s Thrifts’ and ‘Sliced’, who have been able to make full-time careers out of their Depop shops. AIME finds out a little more from the sellers themselves... 117
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AIME speaks to Depop stars Ben and Matt to find out how they founded their online shop, Sliced, and their top tips to becoming a Depop sensation.
Do you feel like a business owner despite not actually having a physical store? Would you ever consider opening your own store, and if so why? Depop is designed to be a fun user friendly app, so it feels like more of a passion rather than a business. Also what’s great is that you can have another job on the side. We’re both at university finishing our degrees so its awesome to have flexibility to use the app as and when we need to. Lots of people also use Depop as a full time job which is wicked; really the more time you put in the more you get out of it! Opening our own store after university has definitely been on our minds. I guess at the moment its more of a fantasy, but who knows what the future holds!
Would you say there is a community feel to Depop, more so than on other social media platforms? Definitely! Like most social media, a lot of the attraction is finding an online community of people with similar interests. It’s quite a specific platform, the sense of community is definitely greater than something like Facebook which everyone has. A couple times we’ve actually bumped into people we recognise from Depop and had a lovely chat!
What would you say is the secret to becoming a successful Depop seller? Have fun with it! For us, Depop’s all about finding clothes that you wouldn’t necessarily see on the high-street, so definitely showcase your own style, and be original! Getting good photos is key, and Depop were amazing in helping promote us once they saw we were putting effort in to our shoots, and were trying to do something different. But most importantly be groovy and enjoy it!!!
How do you think social media has played a role in making vintage clothing so mainstream? Social media means that everyone has access to the same trends across the globe, so they can become overdone pretty fast. I think that’s why people are so drawn to unique, vintage fashion, because they want something that other people can’t access. Inevitably this makes vintage clothing more mainstream, but not in a bad way - people are mixing clothing from different eras to create a completely new style, and its awesome!
@sliced | 37K Followers P H O T O G R A P H B Y B R I G I TA Z I Z Y T E
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FRANKIE’S THRIFTS
@frankiesthrifts | 65K Followers
“My depop platform definitely allows me to feel like a business owner, and I run my store as a business and want to expand as a brand. Community is one of the biggest parts of Depop and there are many group discussion pages and events you can get involved in.” “I would say the secret to being a successful depop seller is to be yourself and put your own feelings and characteristics into your shop either through photography, styling or the type of things you sell.”
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House of Vintage @laurenhouse | 22K Followers
AIME catches up with Lauren House who’s Depop platform, House of Vintage, has quickly become one of the app’s most popular shops. Lauren has been using Depop since 2016 when she was in her final year of university. Would you say there is a sense of a Depop community? More so than on other Depop platforms?
Do you think social media has facilitated the popularity of vintage clothing?
I find there is more of a sense of community on Depop than on other selling platforms I have tried. I find other apps such as Ebay and Vinted don’t allow so much room for communication with other members. I have talked with many of my customers through messages and they often leave me positive feedback on my items but also our exchanges. I love the space for creativity that Depop allows in selling your products, and the inspiration you can find on the explore page and through chatting with other sellers, which I find other apps lack.
Through social media, more people are now able to view various vintage items that they probably never would have seen otherwise. I know many Depop sellers that have very successful Instagram accounts where their vintage outfits attract lots of attention and gain many comments asking where their outfit is from and where they can buy it. I think in some cases a lot of millennials now want more unique clothing that stands out, which they can find on apps like Depop.
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House of Vintage @laurenhouse | 22K Followers
Do you feel like a business owner despite not actually having a physical store? Would you ever consider opening your own store?
What would you say is the secret to becoming a successful Depop seller? I wouldn’t say there is a secret exactly, the best thing to do is to work hard, even when times are quiet. However, it is important to find desirable stock that will sell, this doesn’t have to be what is in all the shops at that time, but rather something that will appeal to your target audience. Personally, I source items that I would want to buy then style them in a way I believe will appeal to my intended customer. Interesting, clear photos are incredibly important in grabbing attention, and really you should just have fun with your work. I feel like I am still learning and evolving everyday with the app, and I enjoy every second of it.
I would say that as I become more successful on the app, I have begun to feel more like a business owner. The idea of having my own store sounds amazing, but to be truthful I like the simplicity and ease of working online.
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