Craft Documentation- Kolhapuri Chappal by Madhura Sawant

MAHARSHI KARVE STREE SHIKSHAN SAMSTHA A College of Design, Management & Technology Aﬃliated to S.N.D.T. Women’s University, Mumbai

को

ापुरी च

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जगातभारी कारा गरी

Front cover Image details- Shopkeeper showing the intricacies of Kolhapuri Chappal

PREFACE As a part of the FC Curriculum and with the aim of gathering practical Knowledge in the ﬁeld of communication, we were required to make a documentary as well as a documentation on "Kolhapuri Chappal". The fundamental objective behind doing this project was to get knowledge on the existing craft. In this project we have included the history of Kolhapur, the craft’s history, other crafts in Kolhapur district, the tools used in the making of our given craft, the whole process, techniques, Artisans point of view, the marketing strategies they have been using till now, problems faced by them and the future aspects regarding the craft and the craftmen. Working on this Project helped us to magnify our knowledge about the place also on the subject of the artisans. Through the whole process of the documentation we came to know about the importance of teamwork and the role of devotion towards the work.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT On the very outset of this documentation, we would like to express our sincere and heartfelt gratitude towards all the people who have helped us in this endeavor. Without their active guidance, help, co-operation and encouragement we would not have made headway in this project. We extend our heartfelt gratitude towards Dr. M.M. Hundekar, Principal, School of Fashion Technology for bestowing us with this opportunity to study and learn about an age old heritage craft. We sincerely thank Dr. Sudhakar Jadhav, Course coordinator and Faculty, Fashion Communication, for his valuable support in completion of this project. We would also like to thank Mrs. Garima Bhalla, HOD UG, for her academic inputs and support. We are thankful with a deep sense of reverence towards the artisan (Name/Names) for their valuable time and eﬀort in tutoring us and providing authentic information about such age-old craft. We are also thankful to Ms. Sneha Maktedar, faculty and subject in charge of Craft Documentation for her guidance and supervision throughout the course of accomplishment of this project. We are grateful to Mr. Shubham Kolhatkar, for his presence in technical assistance throughout this project.

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CONTENT

1 Pure-pur Kolhapur

1.1 Location 1.2 About Kolhapur

2 Leather Industry

3 Kolhapuri Chappal

3.1 History 3.2 Evolution 3.3 Artisans community

4 Raw Materials

5 Tools

6 Making Process

6.1 Leather Tanning 6.2 Manufacturing 6.2.1 Making of Sole 6.2.2 Making of Patta

7 Product Range

8 Scope of Craft

8.1 Competition 8.2 Innovation 8.3 Pandemic

9 Marketing Strategy

9.1 Go Digital

10 GI Tag

11 Government Support

12 Public perspective

12.1 Public talks 12.2 Google Survey

15 Conclusion

14 Artisans Proﬁle

16 Bibliography

SWOT Analysis 13.1 Strengths 13.2 Weaknesses 13.3 Opportunities 13.4 Threats

16.1 Reference photos

17 Glossary

18 List of Figures

19 Art team

20 Annexures- Questionnaire

XII

III

New Palace, Kolhapur

1. PURE-PUR KOLHAPUR

1.1 Location Kolhapur is an ancient and historic city situated in Western Ghats of Maharashtra on the bank of river Panchganga. The city is Famous in every aspect such as Wrestling, special dance form of Maharashtra called Lavni, Cuisines and Leather Products. Given that Kolhapur is one of the most prominent cities in western region of Maharashtra, It is well accessible via various modes of transportation such as bus services, railway and air travel. Focusing around the Ambabai (Mahalaxmi) Temple, this city is also known as ‘Dakshin Kashi’. There is a strong belief that after one worships Lord Balaji at Tirupati, it is essential to oﬀer prayers to goddess Mahalakshmi to complete the pilgrimage.

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ा जी व ना चा न झ र को

म ना त

ा मा णु स क चा पा झ र को

रं का

प ा

ा व र चा वा रा को ावर

- अ व धू त गु

ा धा रा को

ा पू र ा पू र

ा पू र

े

Figure 1- Rankala, Kolhapur

1.2 About Kolhapur The state of Kolhapur was established by Tarabai in 1707. One of the prominent Kings was Rajarshi Shahu Maharaj, who did many things for the well being of the citizens. Kolhapur is known for its spicy, tasty and delicious mouth watering dishes like Kolhapuri Misal Pav, Tambra and Pandra Rassa, Kolhapuri Mutton Dry, Veg Kolhapuri, Pithala Bhakari are some of the traditional dishes running through the city. Kolhapur is not only known for its spicy thalis but also for its sweetness. The enticing is the world famous Kolhapur jaggery which was granted the Geographical Indication Tag (GI) in 2014. It is exported in large quantities to Europe, Middle-East and parts of South-East Asia. Kolhapur's attractions include: New Palace, world's ﬁrst statue of Babasaheb Ambedkar at Bindu chowk, the Tara Rani equestrian statue which stands on two of the horse's legs an 85 feet (26 m), Rankala lake, Panhala fort, idol of the Lord Ganesh at the Chinmaya mission (Top-Sambhapur). The Kolhapur Maybach car of the Chhatrapati of Kolhapur is displayed to the public, every year on the day of Dasara. There is a Memorial of Baburao Painter in Kolhapur who established the Maharashtra Film Company on 1 December 1917. So the city gained much importance. They are hosting some ﬁlm festivals, including the Kolhapur International Film Festival. Kolhapur jewellery procure massively from the manner seen during the reign of the Maratha and Peshwa dynasties. Some of the most popular ornaments made in Kolhapur are Haar and Malas, Mohanmal, Bormal, Chaplahar, Kolhapuri Saaj, Pohehar and Putlihar. The names of these products have been formed on their diverse and uncanny shapes. In all these types, Kolhapuri Saaj is a very special type of necklace that is made only in the city.

Figure 2- Worker hanging leather for drying

Figure 3- Worker cleaning the leather to remove unwanted materials

2 . L E AT H E R I N D U S T RY

The Leather industry is one of the signiﬁcant sectors in the Indian economy. It is a very old manufacturing sector producing a broad range of goods such as leather footwear, leather bags, leather garments, and so on. The industry has been in practice for many years. Which leads to economic growth, regional development, employment generation, etc The Indian Leather industry is one of the top 10 foreign exporter industries of India. India has trade agreements and is also negotiating Free Trade Agreement with the foreign countries. Exporting diﬀerent Footwear categories holds almost 50% share in India’s total leather & leather product exports. • • •

This industry is an employment-focused industry. Women are employed in the leather industry with about 30% share. The Leather industry in India includes footwear, leather goods, leather garments, saddlery and harness. India has 20% of world cattle & buﬀalo and 11% of world goat & sheep population.

India is the • 2nd largest producer of footwear, Leather Garments • 3rd Largest Exporter of Saddlery and Harness items • 5th largest exporter of Leather Goods

Figure 5- Leather kept for further use

Tamil Nadu produces almost 40% of the country’s total leather production, which is the largest leather production Indian state. Kanpur city which is known as the ‘Leather City’, as it has some of the ﬁnest and largest leather tanneries. Kolkata, Jalandar, Delhi, Hyderabad & Bengaluru, are the other important cities involved in leather manufacturing and its export in the country. It all started in the 19th Century. The East India Company arrived & demand for leather products increased, ultimately leather production centres also. India produces 3 billion sq. feet of leather on an annual basis.

2 . L E AT H E R I N D U S T RY

Figure 4- Leather rolled for further use

GST concessions for leather industry items – • Finished leather - 12% to 5%, • Leather goods, garments and saddlery items - 28% to 18%, • Common Eﬄuent Treatment Plants (CETPs) - 18% to 12%, • Job work from 18% to 5% Footwear - 18% to 5% National agencies related to leather • Council for Leather Exports (CLE) • Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI) • Footwear Design and Development Institute (FDDI) • National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) • Central Footwear Training Institute (CFTI).

Figure 6- The shopkeepper displaying diﬀerent types of Kolhapuri Chappal

3. KOLHAPURI CHAPPAL The Kolhapuri Chappal or Paytans is the world famous leather Chappal, its high quality leather and unique design increases its authenticity. Kolhapuri Chappal emerged from Kolhapur, which was especially made for the local people in that region. In the beginning the Chappals are made of two types one for the farmers which was of hard core and fancy chappals for the oﬃce bearers are made as per their need. It is believed that the artisans were encouraged in making varieties of chappals during the reign of Chhatrapati Shahuji Maharaj of Kolhapur. For which artisan’s had to struggle with themselves to ﬁnd the ways in making the best and variety of chappals for the king. There are some other Districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka involved in making of Kolhapuri chappal.

Figure 7- Men’s Kapashi Kolhapuri Chappal

3.1 History During the time of Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, arts and crafts in Kolhapur flourished and were well preserved due to the attention given exquisitely by the king himself. It is difficult to determine the origin of the kolhapuri chappal but it was given great importance and popularity under the reign of Chhatrapati Shahuji Maharaj. By the 18th century, it became very popular as "Kolhapuri". The kolhapuri chappal was designed and made by the Saudagar family in 1920. The first model which was designed earlier was much thinner than what is available currently. It had 2-side flaps & namedit as ‘Kaanwali’.

3.2 Evolution The designs of kolhapuri chappals have evolved from ethnically oriented to the more comfortable and softer modern designs. Earlier artisans themselves were used to sell their product but, today traders and businessmen want cheap products on heavy demand and require minimalist designs.

Figure 8- ﬁxing the sole

Figure 9- Artisan sharpening their tools

Figure 10- Artisans working

3.3 Artisans community Traditionally, there are 3 Scheduled Caste Communities involved in Kolhapuri chappal’s making process. 1. Mahar– They are called the ancestors of Naglok. Their language is Aryan. There is documentary evidence to say that in the Maratha regime Mahars took part in battles and showed good ﬁghting qualities. The hereditary occupation of the community is village service and skinning dead animals. In the making of kolhapuri chappal their main contribution is to supply hide. Carcasses are collected by them from surroundings. But now Mahars do not hide in fear of being stopped or accused for killing the animals. To some extent, there was the sale of buﬀalo hide but that too has stopped over the past few months. 2. Dhor– Dhor community does handmade leather tanning with traditional techniques. 3. Chambhar– Chambhars are one of the untouchable communities of Maharashtra. According to the myth of their caste, they belong to the progeny of Hindu God Shiva and have been Shaivities since ancient times. Chambhars were also part of Bara Balutedar system of Maharashtra and worked on hereditary servicing castes of villages. Historically, Chambhars are related to leather work. They gave service to the rulers of their region by making leather products used in cavalry; and also chappals. But gradually they moved towards midwifery, peasantry, poultry, industrial labour.

Figure 11- Leather

Figure 12- Tanned leather

Figure 13- Vinchu seeds

4 RAW MATERIALS Animal hide - In the making of Kolhapuri chappal, hide of cow, buﬀalo is used. Their hide is used only after they die. No animal is purposely killed. Traditionally, the Mahar community collects carcasses from the surroundings. Tanned leather - Handmade naturally tanned leather is received from Dhor people. In Kolhapur, Jawahar Nagar is famous for leather tanning. Now-a-days some artisans import machine made leather from other cities like Chennai. Vinchu seeds - Vinchu seeds are placed in front of layers of sole, so that it makes a sound while walking. Vinchu trees have very sharp and curved thorns. When shengas of trees are opened these seeds can be found. Artisans buy these seeds from the market at the rate of 130/- per kg. They are dried in natural sunlight; bitten a little to ﬂatten & make it usable.

Figure 14- Sewing machine in use to stitch patta

Figure 15- Cutting leather with Aari tool

Figure 17- Raapi

Figure 19- Artisan sharpeningRaapi on Palagana

Figure 16- Asthi

Figure 18- Khurpa

Figure 20- Stamping patterns on Patta using Design stamping tool

Figure 21- Chandani punching tool

5. TOOLS 1 Sewing Machine - sewing machine is used to stitch patta of kolhapuri chappal. It has a special ability to stitch leather. 2 Aari - a special kind of knife used to cut leather after drafting is done. 3 Asthi - a hammer used for beating leather. It is a very heavy tool completely made up of iron. 4 Raapi - a tool used to cut required shapes with perfection. 5 Khurpa - a special kind of knife used to cut leather. It comes in bigger sizes than Aari & raapi. 6 Palagana - a kind of smooth stone used for sharp Raapi. Also it is used as a platform. 7 Design Stamp tool - a certain stamp-like tool used to create design. It doesn’t make holes to leather but creates depth in pattern. 8 Chandani punching tool - a nail-like structure which has a sharp decorative star at the narrow end. Once the tool loses its sharpness, it has to throw out and get new.

Figure 22- The leather is placed on dukaan to drawn out water

6. MAKING PROCESS For making Kolhapuri chappal, the main required material is tanned leather. For the tanning process skin of dead animals like cows, bulls, oxen are used. Tanned leather is available in two types. One is machine-made and another is hand-made. Machine-made technique requires great capital investment. It is not affordable for every artisan. Very few have that unit. Most of the time, when artisans decide to use machine-made leather instead of naturally tanned leather; they import it from Chennai (a city famous for artificially tanned leather). Buying such leather also costs a lot of money but it gives very smooth and fine results. For natural tanned leather everything is done by physical efforts only. In Kolhapur, there is a place named Javahar Nagar which is famous for handmade leather tanning. The skin is taken out of animals like cows, bulls, oxes and further process steps are followed.

Figure 23- Hide of buﬀalo/Cow is soaked in a tank

Figure 24- Hirada is cut into smaller pieces

6.1 Leather Tanning Day 1 - Outer skin of the dead cow/buffalo is kept in a godown by applying sodium chloride (salt) for about 3 months easily; but can be used in 1 month also. The folds are then opened and put almost 20 skins at a time in a line furnace (tank) full of water. It is kept for 24 hours so that all salt will get dissolved. They apply pressure with legs or using a stick so that it will soak completely. Day 2 – All leathers are removed from the tank. Used water is also thrown out & then they clean that tank. To heat leather lime (Chuna) is very important. As it is put in water, within 10 mins it starts boiling. It is steered with the help of a wooden stick. As it gets set for further use, the worker wears hand gloves and gumboot and pour it on leather to spread it all over. Then they fold the leather and all pieces are kept back in the tank. This process has to be done very carefully & quickly as lime is quite hot. That tank is again filled with clean water. Day 4 – After 2 days, all stuff is taken outside & put back to the tank. This process is done 5 times in the coming 10 days. It helps to cook it completely and remove hair. Day 12 – When it is taken out for the 4th time, it is cut into half & then put back in water. Day 14 – After 10 days, the skin is completely ready for further process. It is placed on an inclined hard surface. Now, hair from the skin can be removed very easily.

Figure 25- Solution of babool and hirda

Figure 26- hide of cow/buﬀalo

Day 15 – Then leftover muscles are removed in the same inclined position which is just a waste. After that water is applied on the upper side and finished. Now it is ready for tanning. It is kept in water for 24 hours. So the remaining lime (chuna) will be cleaned. Day 16 – It is taken out and washed. For dyeing a leather – Mixture of Hirada (Chebulic Myrobalan) seeds and Babool (Acacia) tree bark is mixed with water by barefoot. As it gets ready cut leather is placed in it & pressed with legs. After some time, all the leather and then mixture of Hirada and Babool is taken out. Then again leather is placed inside and Hirada-Babool mixture is spreaded on it. This process is called ‘Ekranga’. It is repeated every 2 hours & 3 times a day. Leather is kept in it for 1 day. Next day it is taken out & washed. Day 17 – After Ekranga, they prepare for ‘Duranga’ (i.e. second colour). In it they use new Hirada and large barks of Babool. They fill water in it & mix it with leg movements. As the new mixture is soaked perfectly in water; it is taken out. Washed leather is placed in the same water tank & the same mixture is spreaded all over on it. This is kept steady for 2 days. Benefit behind these 2 processes is all salt and lime gets removed. And this leather becomes harder. Day 17 – After Ekranga, they prepare for ‘Duranga’ (i.e. second colour). In it they use new Hirada and large barks of Babool. They fill water in it & mix it with leg movements. As the new mixture is soaked perfectly in water; it is taken out. Washed leather is placed in the same water tank & the same mixture is spreaded all over on it. This is kept steady for 2 days. Benefit behind these 2 processes is all salt and lime gets removed. And this leather becomes harder.

Figure 27- The mixture of Hirada and babul is poured into the bag shaped hide

Figure 28- Brush is used for better cleaning

Day 19 – After 2 days, leather is taken out. They wash it & take out water from it. Now it is ready for stitching. To stitch they use ‘fada’ as a thread, which is a leaf of a wild tree. It is very strong. It is dipped in water and the bottom part is sharpened. Then they start stitching that leather with fada. It should be very strong as it is going to hold water for 5-6 days. While doing this worker should be careful as the needle used for it is very sharp. Once stitching is done, it is ready to fill up stuff in it. On the same day they put Hirada-Babool mixture in that bag (used mixture can be used again here). Now, it is ready to take it to dukaan. Dukaan is a place where leather is hung for color. Now they fill that cylindrical leather bag with water. And keep kicking it so it gets mixed properly. Water is filled in it 6-7 times a day. So, it won’t get dry. To keep it wet is very important to get color. Day 21 – After 48 hours, they cut bottom stitching & let water go out. After that a rope tied very tightly in its middle & kept it down. Now they open a little more bottom stitching using a sharp tool. The bag is done upside down and all fillings are pushed down to the middle part of the bag. Then it is hanged on to dukaan, to a strong wooden rod. And again water is filled in it through the current opened part. This leather is cleaned as well. Again water has to be filled 67 times a day. Day 23 – After 2 days, they do the same process with the 3rd and last part of the bag. As it was a little open, they packed it with stitches like at first. Then the latest knot is opened and Hirada-Babool stuff is pushed down. Again it is filled with water for 2 days.

Figure 29- Hide is dried on the bed of babul and hirada

Figure 30- Dried leather is stored in at room temperature.

Day 25 – Now, they open those stitches and leather is taken out from Dukaan. Then they empty that bag. This Hirada-Babool stuﬀ is dried and used for burning. After that leather is again put back in the water. After taking it out, leather is brushed on both sides. Then it is washed in clean water. And put back to dukaan, & soaked in water over there for 3 days. Day 28 – Leather is taken out and hand washed completely with clean water. Again it is placed on dukaan to remove water for almost an hour. After that these pieces are taken under direct sunlight. They hang those pieces on a strong wooden stick & one person takes the front part on the shoulder, another person takes the end part and they carry it like a palakhi. After getting dry for two hours they give it a shape (this step is called to make a pudi) so that the leather will dry at a fast pace. Leather will take this shape when it is dried completely. It is also easy to store. After it is dried completely; leather making process is done. And ready to store in a closed room. This complete process requires liters of water and a lot of human labour / physical eﬀorts.

Figure 31- The artisan is stitching the sole

6.2 MANUFACTURING The making process has mainly 2 important things – making a sole (which should be harder) and making a patta i.e. strap (which should be softer). These two are a very important part of chappal. Most of the time the name of Kolhapuri Chappal type is decided according to the look of the pair of Chappal achieved by 'sole' and 'patta'. There is a lot of scope to show design variation in both so artisans have great variation in it. They cut it, carve, stick, stitch, add some decoratives to enhance its looks.

Figure 32- Soles stacked up

Figure 33- Color and cream mixture is applied as second coat.

6.2.1 Making of Sole The processed leather is washed, brushed so that unwanted material will be removed. Then uneven parts of leather are being cut with a sharp arc-shaped knife. & smoothened with a tool named ‘Kurpa’. This process is called skiving. The stencils of diﬀerent sizes are used to mark the outline of the shape. There are particular codes for each size. Like -000 means 11 number size, 00 means 10 number, 0 is 9 number, 1 is 8 no. size, & it continues. Then using a tool, Raapi, these outlines can be cut easily. Heels are also cut out in a similar way but from harder leather. Whereas, the upper layer of chappal, where we place our foot, is done using soft leather. After cutting of ‘kanpa’ & ‘tapis’ is done; all these things are stuck to the sole using a cobbler’s gum. Once it dries properly, this combination is stitched by women. This st itching makes it stronger and adds aesthetics to its look. After that, a coat of natural color (mixed with kerosene) is applied on it using a brush. After the color is dried, these chappal layers are pressured strongly using an iron tool called ‘Asthi’. This tool is very strong & thick. It helps stick all layers permanently to each other. But This step hurts artisans’ hands a lot.

Figure 34- Cut pieces of Patta

Figure 35- Braiding

6.2.2 Making of Patta Design – shape – size of a patta, is also marked by using stencil. Then this patta & other small parts like angatha (toe strap), veni (a certain type of braid) are also cut for further steps. Women weave different types of venis. Some are very very thin, where some are a little broader. Then these straps are stitched by machine & added decorative stuff to it. They also have a variety of punches. It mainly includes different shapes of ‘Chandanya’ (stars). After being attached to every single decorative item like golden threads, gonda, etc., straps are polished in the way the sole is done. Then marking on the sole is done for convenience in attaching patta. It is first glued and then stitched by women artisans. After the final polish is done, Kolhapuri chappal is ready for shipping.

Figure 36- Men’s Star Punch Kolhapuri Chappal

Figure 37- Men’s Khas Kapashi Kolhapuri Chappal

Figure 38- Men’s 4 Majgi Kolhapuri Chappal

Figure 39- Women’s Jari Gonda Kolhapuri Chappal

Figure 40- Women’s mayuri Angatha Kolhapuri Chappal

Figure 41- Women’s Box Heel Meena Kolhapuri Chappal

7. PRODUCT RANGE Kolhapuri Chappal has a variety of products based on gender and age. Considering all variations there are more than 125 designs. To make kolhapuri chappals more attractive and give an immoderate look are decorated with zari strips or sponge (red color) which is usually worn in special occasions like weddings and parties and low cost chappals are used for regular use. Higher quality chappal has more braids (up to 9). The chappals are available for all sizes, and the artisans offer customized pieces as per the customer demand. Huge range of Kolhapuri chappal is available which starts from Rs 500 to Rs 5000. Specifically for men, there are - Kapashi, Paper Kapashi, Jaad Kapashi, Senapati Chappal, Amdar Chappal, Kurundawdi, Shahu (a similar pattern to Shahu Maharaj’s pair of Kolhapuri chappal), Vinchu Chappal, etc. Vinchu Chappal - There is a special demand for a chappal which makes sound while walking. Seeds of the Vinchu tree are dried and hammered a little; & placed in between two layers of sole on its frontside. Specifically for women, there are – Mandakini, Mayuri, Chepali patta, Angatha patta, Punching patta, Meena, Paduka, Ekveni, Haatveni, Nuri, etc. There are also some crafted pieces for kids – Pawda, Bachkani Zarigonda, etc. Sometimes artisans make some designs as per the customer demand. Example – Vetal Chappal.

Figure 42- Kolhapuri Chappal for display

8. SCOPE OF CRAFT Chappal Craft has plenty of prospects to expand in the upcoming years in the national as well as the international trade. The contemporary style of the Chappal is not only renowned in the older generation but also in the younger ones although the reach isn't visibly celebrated. Major threats are faced by the craft in order to preserve it in this topical atmosphere.

8.1 Competition There has been competition in the whole leather market due to the exposure of intercontinental imports. Animal welfare organizations act as a stumbling block that the craft must beat.

8. SCOPE OF CRAFT

8.2 Innovation There has been a uniform decline in the craft mentioning plenty of reasons but the uppermost is the refusal to learn and adapt to new technological developments. If you have been given a chance to choose between a smooth textured Chappal done using the help of machinery against a rough textured Chappal done with the traditional ways. Mostly the answer is going to be the prior, all because it has a smooth texture and the majority of the public doesn't really care about the making process. The sole focus on the chappal department does not aid the craft's relevance. Experimenting and branching out into new innovative products will expand their target audience and moreover catch the consumer’s attention in an entire new way. The traditional way of practicing the craft needs to be modernized with the aim to increase their eﬃciency. The only form of education they get is ancestral, which is for the process of making a Chappal. Since there is a lack of education, Innovation through creative activities isn't introduced to them by anyone. This lessens their eﬃciency and makes them lag in the business. Few inclusion to the leather market from their side that we feel would be watch straps, belts, bags- wallets, shoulder bags, tote bags and laptop sleeves. An entire range of accessories could be included as well, such as earrings and chokers and even clip on bow ties. Another unexploited business is stationery. Leather protected journals and passport covers with authentic patterns are fascinating to millennials and GenZ who look for nominal ways to add quirkiness to their aesthetic.

8.3 Pandemic Handicrafts are treated to be superﬂuous, non-compulsory items, and got impacted by the Covid-19 virus despite it being a second largest sector after agriculture in India. In respect of Kolhapuri Chappal, lockdown forced the shutter to be closed. As buying ‘Chappal’ wasn't a necessity throughout the lockdown, the demand reduced. Craftspeople were unprepared for such an event, and almost went unemployed for 1.5 years. For a sector that has more than half daily wage earners and nearly negligible social and medical cover, the harm was gigantic.

9 . M A R K E T I N G S T R AT E G Y

For years the craftsmen have been selling their ﬁnished products directly to the shopkeeper without taking any help from the middlemen or they would manufacture it in their own garage since it is a legacy to continue the craft and sell it in their own shop. Not that they have not tried business with a middleman, but everytime they use to take a bigger chunk of the outcome. They saw a pattern and decided not to include them in the way of the business. The craftsmen should branch out into various leather products. Innovation is the key to sustain the business in the long run. This attracts several kinds of customers looking for aesthetics in their life. The trades of leather products like leather Chappals, leather shoes, leather sandals, leather handbags and ladies purses etc. are important for the development of a country. It is also an important source of employment and earning the foreign exchange.

9.1 Go Digital While online platforms are being encouraged, we noticed that digital platforms aren’t the finest choice of sales for artisans. Artisans have not found the e-commerce sector as beneficial for them as it might have been for others. They gross more money at a craft bazaar. Under the names of popular websites like EBay and amazon, scams occurred in the process which set back the notion of never exploring the online markets. Now such websites are known for their cheating practices with small cottage industries. While brands like Vhaan, Kolhapuri paytaan, Korakari have already established their presence in the digital world and marketed their products to the international market with the health benefit factor. Brands not only look after the manufacturing process but also the packing and the customer service which helps them to build a loyal customer base.

A geographical indication or GI is an indication used on commodities that have a particular geographical genesis and possess qualities or a prestige that are due to that origin. They are part of the intellectual property rights that come under the Paris Convention for the Protection of Industrial Property. In India, Geographical Indications registration is administered by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act of 1999. Foodstuﬀs, wine and spirit drinks, handicrafts and handlooms, and industrial products and agricultural products are the divisions where geographical indications are generally used. Beneﬁts of GI Tag • It will help artisans to expand the business to various places and also tie up with online sites such as Flipkart and Amazon. • With the GI tag now these local artisans get legal support. Thus, anyone who is going to copy this can be punished.

1 0 . G I TA G

Validity : The tag is valid for a period of 10 years following which it can be renewed. The Controller General of Patents, Designs and TradeMarks (CGPDTM) has permitted Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Kolhapuris, the cultural leather chappal to 4 districts in each state of Maharashtra and Karnataka. These 8 districts are- Kolhapur, Solapur, Sangli and Satara districts of Maharashtra and Bagalkot, Belgaum, Dharwad, and Bijapur districts of Karnataka. In the registry Geographical Indication number is “169” for Kolhapuri Chappal. It is certified that the GI authorised user has been registered in the register in the name of Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation Limited (LIDCOM) & Dr. Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries DEvelopment Corporation Limited (LIDKAR). Facilitated by Central Leather Research Institute, Chennai. In the event of Kolhapuri Chappal, they got the GI Tag in July 2019. During the interview we came to know that some craftspeople knew about the tag but had only half knowledge about it and some were under the impression that it wouldn't affect their business. One particular artisan blamed for not having unity in the community, hence the craft is suffering.

Figure 44- LIDKAR logo

Figure 45- LIDCOM logo

11. GOVERNMENT SUPPORT

Figure 43- NSFDC logo

Central Government Scheme • •

Micro Credit Finance Mahila Samridhi Yojana • Mahila Kisan Yojana • Term Loan Scheme

State Government Schemes • •

50% Subsidy Scheme Margin Money Scheme • Training Scheme

Sant Rohidas Charmodyog & Charmakar Vikas Mahamandal (Leather Industries Development Corp. of Maharashtra) Leather Industries Development Corporation of Maharashtra Ltd. (LIDCOM) was established on 1st May, 1974. • •

11. GOVERNMENT SUPPORT

•

It has been brought to work on Social Welfare, Financial Welfare, Cultural Aﬀairs of the community which is engaged in development of Leather Industry. Their objective is to promote & boost the Leather Industry and people engaged in it. It’s objectives are divided into Commercial and Social activities. The corporation has production centres in Amaravati, Hingoli, Kolhapur and Satara.. Their strength to manufacture is 2,00,000 Shoes Pairs & products like Bags, Purses, Shoes, Scandals, Belts.

Commercial activities • • • • • • • • • •

To arrange requirements and supply of raw material & other necessary items for artisans engaged in the Leather Industry. To ensure quality control in order to get a qualitative product. To take necessary steps for improvement in production techniques. To assist and act as an agent for sale of finished products by opening of show rooms, exhibition counters within and outside the state. To promote the sale of finished leather goods in foreign markets. o arrange and manage training facilities in production and marketing, in order to boost the Leather Industry as well as organise exhibitions, conferences and seminars. Social activities procure capital or financial assistance and to sanction loans, subsidies and Resources, machinery, equipment for promoting leather and leather based industries and other industries of Scheduled Caste Charmakar Community. To give financial assistance, loans, subsidies to Charmakar Community (Scheduled Caste) for rendering any legal service, transport, leather and other industries, agricultural and other sectors for overall development of the community. To raise the funds from Central Govt., State Govt. and other financial institutions, Banks, Corporations, etc. for Charmakar Community.

11. GOVERNMENT SUPPORT Figure 46- Shopkeeper Anil Raghunath Doiphode

Figure 47- Artisans

Artisans’ take on Government policies According to the government association, a number of schemes are in place for the advancement of the craft and improvement of the artisans socially and financially .Upon interaction with the artisans, we were told about how in no way the government has ever approached them. Especially after the pandemic and flood season setting up a digital profile was expected but unfortunately inconsiderable help was provided. The government association should familiarize them with the blooming digital scenario and plant an ecommerce site for the sale of these. Due to insignificant help through government association and NGO’s the future doesn't look promising.

1 2 . 1 P U B L I C P E R S P E C T I V E ( P U B L I C TA L K S )

12.1 Public Talks Mr. Vitthal Kurne

Ms. Rajeshwari

AboutHe belongs to Kolhapur only. He washes vehicles for his livelihood.

AboutShe lives in Bangalore, comes to Kolhapur to visit Mahalaxmi Temple.

Experience with Kolhapuri Chappal – He said, his occupation is washing vehicles, so he has never used Kolhapuri Chappal in life. In his profession he frequently comes in contact with water. And water is strictly prohibited to maintain the pair of Kolhapuri Chappals. But he urges others to buy it and use it. He has a strong willingness to get this f o o t w e a r p a i r, b u t b e c a u s e o f h i s livelihood, he is unable. He is so proud of the art, artisans and culture.

Experience with Kolhapuri Chappal – Whenever she comes to Kolhapur almost every time she preferably buys a beautiful pair of Kolhapuri Chappals. For many years she has been coming to Kolhapur. To buy these chappals she prefers local shops. The local shop experience gives a diﬀerent shopping experience than shopping on some online platforms. She is very satisﬁed with its usage. So she has a very positive awareness about the chappals among her natives.

To know about the awareness of the craft from family and friends, an online survey has been taken. Which lets us know what is going on in society. People answer the survey according to their pre-knowledge. A google form was created, open to all, but most responses were received from the 18 to 21 age group. Almost 70% of the People have heard about Kolhapuri Chappals through family and friends then social Media followed by newspapers. Majority of the people have used it beforehand and also agree it's comfortable to use. Though most of them have tried it and give positive responses about it, they are not ready to use it on a daily basis. According to them, the best pairing goes with ethenic wear, also passionate about customizing them. It's nice to see the public choose a local market over an online platform to buy beautiful paytaan, which will definitely help local artisans and increase their sales. Though they don't know about the various types of Kolhapuri Chappals, they are curious to try them. There is mixed awareness about the health benefits the chappals offer. Even if they know about the product they have very little information about its background, making process, raw materials and the artisans/karigars. In this modern and fantastic footwear world, people still are passionate towards this old craft and we will definitely try to sustain it in the long run. (Google form link is provided in the Annexure page no. 73)

12.1 PUBLIC PERSPECTIVE (GOOGLE SURVEY)

12.2 Google Survey

ngths

Stre

• • • •

1 3 . S W O T A N A LY S I S

•

• • • • • • • •

Kolhapuri Chappals are a handmade artefact. This reduces environmental wastage. The capital required for the craft is low as compared to investment in machineries. Middle men- Artisans are pretty aware about the ill practices middle man carries. They voluntarily prefer direct transactions to selling to middle men. The tradition of making Chappals has been carried out and taught by the forefathers and ancestors. Kolhapuri Chappals are trending in generation Z.

Due to ancestral training we see lack of formal training. There is a lack of new age training. While the craftsmen are skilled, their efficiency could be vastly upgraded with formal training which would increase productivity. They do not have sufficient financial resources to upgrade to new machinery or equipment to graduate the skills. They also do not have easy access to technology or the money along with a lack of knowledge on how to use it. The craft itself has prospects to expand in reference to target audience and product categories. A comprehensive market study will help the craft to sustain and keep up with the rapid changing trends. Craftsmen work for a low cost- Lack of education forces them to work for low cost. Even if the craftsmen are highly skilled as the craft has been an ancestral one they don't get the benefit of it. The work is looked down upon. No Support from government associations- Pandemic . The craft has a GI Tag, but no awareness of it. Can’t use in monsoons only suitable for tropical climate.

• • •

The constantly growing domestic and international markets have a vast potential for the growth of the Indian leather industry. These Chappals shops and workshops are solely situated in Kolhapur city. They have a very good scope to expand and open shops throughout the country. Product diversiﬁcation- Leather products apart from chappals need to be explored. There is a vast market for leather bags, belts and other accessories. Fad- It is essential that the craft timely follows modern fashion trends to increase sales which will enable them to stay relevant in an ever evolving market.

1 3 . S W O T A N A LY S I S

•

13.3

ities rtun o p

ts hrea

T• • • • •

With the increase in education and migration to cities, the number of craftsmen is decreasing rapidly as the younger generations aren't as interested in continuing the craft. This has led to a rise in the limited labour costs. Entry of multinationals in the domestic market- Already the competition was cut throat since the craftsmen and the shops are adjacent. The entry of brands has increased the existing competition that the craft faces. Kolhapuri Chappals are hand made, thus taking a lot of time and effort. Machinemade are quick and have a smooth texture. Duplications- In this fast-paced world, people don't value authenticity or originality, also not aware of it and how it affects the craftsman’s business. Next generation- Not only children but also today’s youth are not interested in picking up the skill. The efforts needed are much compared to the less wage. Very few are working on it.

Artisans Profile

14. ARTISANS PROFILE

Figure 48 - Artisan Bharat Satpute

Mr. Bharat Satpute About – His age is 62 years; living in Subhash Nagar, Kolhapur. His family & he is involved in the making and selling of Kolhapuri chappal. Contribution – He is selling Kolhapuri chappals in his own shop. His brother and his team of artisans make these chappals for many years. Problems faced– Though people are interested and proud about this craft; they don’t 59 them. So the sales are not that great. show much interest in actually buying Ultimately, income is also not satisfactory. We never received any kind of Gov. support or any other support; even in the pandemic period. Expectations - He is truly proud of this craft and willing to see it sustained for many more next generations. But as this sector is not giving satisfying income; youth is not taking much interest in this craft. Even for the same reason elders are also not able to ask their children to join the same craft business they are doing. We need some strong income source and ﬁnancial backup.

14. ARTISANS PROFILE Figure 49- Artisan Prashant Satpute

Mr. Prashant Satpute About – He is also living and working in Subhash Nagar itself. Contribution – He does the punching process, which comes under patta making. Problems faced– Because of inflation, less number of buyers, (lack of proper marketing), even the investment in raw materials is also difficult to cover. Due to lack of proper, expected income; they are unable to do savings for their betterment. As we don’t receive revenue, according to the efforts. So most of the youth is refusing this job. Expectations - We artisans receive drastically less revenue as compared to efforts we put in. We don't receive any kind of financial assistance or back-up when needed. If we get it, then we can save this craft from disappearing, we can nurture our culture, our ancestral skill.

Figure 50- The shopkeeper talking about the Chappal

Figure 51- The owner Anil Raghunath Doiphode showing a photograph when Sachin Tendulkar and Ajit Agarkar visited his shop

15. CONCLUSION In Kolhapur district, Chappals producing occupation is prospering and becoming commercial in Maharashtra, India and abroad. In the area named Subhash Nagar, there are almost 10,000 artisance working in the manufacturing of Kolhapuri Chappal. There is a great demand for Kolhapuri leather Chappals. Chappal Lane is the main market of the city, which has nearly 50 shops to purchase these beautifully handcrafted pairs of footwear. Since Kolhapuri Chappals are handmade from leather, the value increased on its own. It is said by some local people that the total traffic of Kolhapuri Chappal is 9 crores. They have a whole benefit and should explore more into it. People visiting Kolhapur from other states of India and from foreign countries definitely purchase Kolhapuri leather Chappal. This craft is exported also. Artisans make almost 6,00,000 pairs of Kolhapuri chappal per year out of which nearly 30% are exported. But people connected to Kolhapuri Chappal are not receiving a satisfying income. Sometimes it becomes very difficult for them to satisfy necessities also. Thus Kolhapuri youth is not very active about this craft. So it is our responsibility to preserve our old heritage by giving them employment opportunities by buying for them, helping them by setting up their store online or just becoming aware of the existing situation that they go through everyday. The Javahar Nagar area of Kolhapur is famous for the leather tanning process. During the reign of Shahu Maharaj tanning units flourished. About 50 tanning units were in operation but from the late 90s many units started shutting down. And the remaining few are forced to shut due to lack of animal hide. Despite the fact the handmade designs of the footwear are edgy to the latest trend, artisans go through hardships fighting for their existence because of low sales and exclusive brands. They believe they are the only last active generation to take up the job of a craftsman; not many from the future generation will be willing to engage themselves into the profession. Due to a lot of reasons, the foremost being education and its stability one could have. The returns artisans have are much less than what they give it in. In spite of all the financial constraints faced by the makers of the Kolhapuris, one should be able to look into this as an uncontaminated Indian artform which has to be fostered and conserved for they are just not footwear but a legacy.

16. BIBLIOGRAPHY https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal http://www.inkuisitive.in/education/leather-tales-kolhapuri-chappals/ https://www.thehindu.com/society/the-last-original-kolhapuris/article19231770.ece https://www.behance.net/gallery/119628121/Craft-Documentation-Kolhapurichappals?tracking_source=search_projects_recommended%7Ckolhapuri%20chappal https://timesoﬁndia.indiatimes.com/city/kolhapur/kolhapuri-chappal-artisans-stareat-uncertain-future/articleshow/76507529.cms Raw materials and tools - https://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapuri-chappal/toolsand-raw-materials Leather Tanning - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIYfprw1Rw0 GI Tag - https://www.gktoday.in/current-aﬀairs/gi-tag-namma-kolhapuri-chappals/\ Schemes - http://leatherindia.org/special-schemes/

Figure 1- https://www.thrillophilia.com/attractions/rankala-lake Figure 2 - https://www.business-standard.com/article/current-aﬀairs/netherlands-to-invest-2million-euros-in-kanpur-leather-cluster-119012500597_1.html Figure 3 - https://cividep.org/project/tougher-leather-working-conditions-indian-tanneries/ Figure 4 - https://thekashmirscenario.com/leather-industry-kashmir-struggling/

16.1 REFERENCE PHOTOS

Figure 5https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fksbeautifulartandcraft.com%2Fimp ort-exports%2Fleather-industryindia%2Fattachment%2Frawleather%2F&psig=AOvVaw1bCA2wltfbPBgo3c9H5x0H&ust=163 8852929115000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAsQjRxqFwoTCLiUzNKxzvQCFQAAAAA dAAAAABAD Figure 7 - http://www.inkuisitive.in/education/leather-tales-kolhapuri-chappals/ Figure 8 - https://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapuri-chappal/making-process/chappal-making Figure 9 - https://www.kalapuri.com/footwear/womens-footwear/ekolhapuri-exclusivekolhapuri-chappal-for-women-7165 F i g u r e 1 0 - h t t p s : / / w w w. o u t l o o k i n d i a . c o m / m a g a z i n e / s t o r y / t h e - d y i n g - c h i r r r p - o f kolhapuris/297664 Figure 11 - https://www.one4leather.com/article/cotance-calls-on-the-eu-commission-toregulate-the-use-of-the-term-leather Figure 12 - https:/-/www.galenleather.com/blogs/news/vegetable-tanned-leather Figure 13 - https://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapuri-chappal/tools-and-raw-materials Figure 14-21 making

https://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapuri-chappal/making-process/strap-

Figure 22 - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanning_(leather)

Figure 31 - https://www.dsource.in/gallery/kolhapuri-chappal#52978 Figure 32-33 - https://www.dsource.in/gallery/kolhapuri-chappal Figure 34-35 - https://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapuri-chappal/making-process/strapmaking Figure 36-38 - https://www.kolhapurleather.com/products/gents-star-punched-kolhapurichappal?pr_prod_strat=collection_fallback&pr_rec_pid=4461463634060&pr_ref_pid=446 1051248780&pr_seq=uniform h t t p s : / / w w w. k o l h a p u r l e a t h e r. c o m / p r o d u c t s / g e n t s - k h a s - k a p a s h i - k o l h a p u r i chappal?pr_prod_strat=collection_fallback&pr_rec_pid=4461516423308&pr_ref_pid=446 1051248780&pr_seq=uniform

16.1 REFERENCE PHOTOS

Figure 23-30 - https://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapuri-chappal/making-process/leather-making

h t t p s : / / w w w. k o l h a p u r l e a t h e r. c o m / p r o d u c t s / g e n t s - 4 - m a j g i - k o l h a p u r i chappal?pr_prod_strat=collection_fallback&pr_rec_pid=4461401407628&pr_ref_pid=446 1051248780&pr_seq=uniform Figure 39-41 https://korakari.com/product/beautiful-jari-braids-ladies-kolhapuri-chappalwith-kolhapuri-gonda/ h t t p s : / / w w w. k o l h a p u r l e a t h e r. c o m / p r o d u c t s / l a d i e s - n a c h e - m a y u r i - a n g a t h a - k o l h a p u r i chappal?pr_prod_strat=collection_fallback&pr_rec_pid=4460987646092&pr_ref_pid=442 5493282956&pr_seq=uniform https://www.kolhapurleather.com/collections/female/products/ladies-box-hill-meenakolhapuri-chappal Figure 43 - https://www.nsfdc.nic.in/ Figure 44 - https://lidkar.com/schemes/home Figure 45- https://www.lidcom.co.in/

17. GLOSSARY Aari - a special kind knife used to cut leather Angatha - a bigger leg finger, Kolhapuri chappal has a special placement of it Asthi - an iron hammer used for beating leather Balutedar - a business system used in old days in villages Bara - twelve Babool- an Indian term for acacia. It is native to Africa, the Middle East and the Indian subcontinent. Bhakri- round flat bread often used in the cuisine of the states of Maharashtra, Karnataka, and Goa in India. Bormal- fairly like mohanmal plans yet the brilliant globules are circular fit and give a filled touch to your neck area. Chandani - a decorative star Chaplahar- comes in a huge assortment. It has brilliant level dabs, comes in extremely long single layered expansive jewelry and it has an illustrious and exceptionally rich touch. Gehuhar, laxmihar are sorts of Chaplahar. Chuna- an Indian term for calcium-containing inorganic mineral composed primarily of oxides, and hydroxide, usually calcium oxide and/ or calcium hydroxide. Dukaan- a place where the leather is hung for color. Duranga- second application of colour Ekranga- first application of colour Fada- wild tree leaf, used for stitching leather while tanning process Gonda - a small thread flower used for decoration purpose

Haar and Malas- neckpiece Hirada- an Indian term for Terminalia chebula, commonly known as black- or chebulic myrobalan Kanpa & tapis - parts of Kolhapuri chappal Karangali - a smaller leg ﬁnger, Kolhapuri Kapashi chappal has that special veni Kolhapuri Saaj- a Kolhapuri ornament made with the amalgamation of 21 leaves and golden beads. Kolhasur- According to the myth, Kolhapur city was named after the demon Kolhasur. Kurpa - a special kind knife used to cut leather Lavni- combination of traditional song and dance, popular in Maharashtra, India.

17. GLOSSARY

Mahar, Dhor and Chambhar- caste-cluster, or group of many endogamous castes, living chiefly in Maharashtra state, India, and in adjoining states. Maratha and Peshwa dynasties- Marathas were the most violent tribes in India who established a strong confederacy in the Deccan region. Peshwas were the loyal ministers of Marathas state who were appointed to assist the king in different administrative as well as political affairs.. Mohanmal- Mohan mala is a long beaded golden necklace having many layers of golden bead strings. The layers may be 2-8, they may vary. Naglok - world of nagas (snakes) Palagana - a kind of stone used to remove unwanted material from hide Patta - a flap which is an upper part of chappal Paytaans- Indian footwear

Pudi - folding a leather in a particular way so it will dry quickly Putlihar- composed of round fragile coins like brilliant dabs gives an extremely exquisite touch. Raapi - a tool used to cut required shape

17. GLOSSARY

Pohehar- additionally brilliant beaded neckband comes in multi-facet strings.

shengas - shengas are part of some trees attached to stems or roots. They have a cover and seeds inside it. Soudagar - businessman Veni - a certain type of braid Vinchu tree- commonly known as devil's claw, iceplant, tiger's-claw. Palakhi- a passenger conveyance, usually for one person, consisting of a covered or box like litter carried by means of poles resting on the shoulders of several men. It was formerly being used for transportation of rich people in India. pudi- a small bundle or packet

Glossary

Tapis- a tapestry or richly decorated cloth, used as a hanging or a covering.

18. LIST OF FIGURES

Figure no.

Page no.

Rankala, Kolhapur

Worker hanging leather for drying

Worker cleaning the leather to remove unwanted materials

Leather rolled for further use

Leather kept for further use

The shopkeeper displayed diﬀerent types of Kolhapuri Chappal

Men's Kapashi Old Kolhapuri Chappal

Artisan working on sole

Artisan sharpening their tool

Artisans working

Leather

Tanned Leather

Vinchu Seeds

Sewing machine in use to stitch patta

Cutting leather with Aari tool

Asthi

Raapi

Kurpa

Artisan sharpening Raapi on Palagana

Stamping patterns on Patta using Design stamping tool

Chandani Punching Tool

The leather is placed on dukaan to draw out water

Hide of Buﬀalo/Cow is Soaked in a tank

Hirada is cut into smaller pieces

Solution of Babool & Hirada

Hide of Cow/Buﬀalo

Mixture of Hirada & Babool is poured into the bag shaped Hide

Brush is used for better cleaning

Hide is dried on the bed of Babool & Hirada

Dried leather is stored in room at room temperature

Artisan is stitching a sole

Soles stacked up

Color & cream mixture is applied as second coat

Cut pieces of patta

Braiding

Men’s Star PunchKolhapuri Chappal

Men’s Khas Kapashi Kolhapuri Chappa Men’s 4 Majgi Kolhapuri Chappal

Women’s Jari Gonda Kolhapuri Chappal

Women’s mayuri Angatha Kolhapuri Chappal

Women’s Box Heel Meena Kolhapuri Chappal

Kolhapuri Chappal for display

NSFDC logo

LIDKAR logo

LIDCOM logo

Owner Anil Raghunath Doiphode

Artisans

Artisan Bharat Satpute

Artisan Prashant Satpute

The shopkeeper talking about the chappal

The owner Anil Raghunath Doiphode showing a photograph when Sachin Tendulkar and Ajit Agarkar visited his shop

18. LIST OF FIGURES

19. ART TEAM Team SOFT Fashion Communication- 2019-23 Documentation- Layout, illustration and content Madhura Sawant Rupal Gangan Shitanshu Dehankar Documentary Avani Lubri Gauri Raut

Summary Interviewing and gathering information from diﬀerent groups of people are directly related, few partially and some not through natural conversations.

Aim To get to know the craft and the people who continue the culture. To empower artisans by bringing them to a visible platform for easy access to local as well as to introduce online platforms.

Auto Drivers, random people (Market Place)

20. ANNEXURE- QUESTIONNAIRE

Self-introduction of the person: It will include name, age, where he/she stays, where he/she works, what his/her occupation is. • • • • • • • •

Are you native of kolhapur? What brings you to the market? A unique thing/dish of Kolhapur that the world doesn't know yet? Non kolhapurkar What brings you to Kolhapur? How do you like the weather and the people here? Do you have diﬃculty in understanding their Kolhapuri accent ? One thing which fascinates you about kolhapur?

Shopkeeper Self-introduction of the shopkeeper: It will include name, age, where he stays, where he works, what he sells. • • • • • • • • • • • •

How many years have you been in this business? When did you start this business or is this ancestral business carried forwarded by you? What kind of Stock you prefer to keep in your shop, handmade chappal or machinemade? How many types of Kolhapuri Chappal do you sell? With a couple of types in Kolhapuri Chappal, Which type has more demand in the market? Which type of Kolhapuri Chappal have given you more proﬁt? What is your approx. price range? How much proﬁt do you make after selling one pair of Chappal? Where do you source these Kolhapuri Chappal? Are there wholesalers or direct workshops? Do you hire artisans only from your city or are you open to other cities as well? Do you think western footwear is taking over your business of selling Kolhapuri Chappal? What are your strategies to overcome their market?

• • • •

Is there a need of the hour to promote your product online for greater expansion of the business? Yes No Maybe (Haven't thought about it) If yes, Would you like to take your business to the next level and build your website to tap into a larger audience?

Artisans (karagir) Self-introduction of the artist: It will include name, age, where he stays, where he works. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

For how many years have you been practicing this craft? How many generations were involved in this craft? You work on: Daily Wage Basis Piece Rate Basis Weekly wage basis Self Employed Why did you choose this profession? To earn a livelihood Out of passion Others What is your education qualiﬁcation? Are your family members involved in this craft? Do you wish your next generation to continue this craft? Will your future generation continue this craft? What do you expect from your future generation? If yes, then will they be able to continue the authenticity of the craft? Would you like to teach or take workshops of Kolhapuri Chappals?

20. ANNEXURE- QUESTIONNAIRE

•

Community • •

What are the communities involved in the making of the craft? Has the number of craftsmen involved in these crafts reduced over the time or has it increased? Reduced Increased

Raw materials • • • • •

From where do you source your Raw materials? What are their types? Which one do you prefer? How much does it cost you? (kg wise) How is it processed? (machine made or handmade) How much time does the complete process take?

• • • •

Has the quality deteriorated in the raw materials from earlier? If by chance some material gets spoiled, what do you do with it? What problems do you face during the procedure? Is there any special care taken for their storage?

Tools • • •

What tools do you use? (mention Marathi names) Among those which tools are specially meant for making chappal? Are there technical changes in tools? Or are they all just the same as they were in olden days?

How do you take care of these tools? • What is its lifespan? • About the process • What are the steps involved in the making? • How much time does it take to complete the process? • How much time does 1 pair of chappals take? • Is there any difference between the older timeline & current timeline? • How many types of Kolhapuri Chappals are there in the market? • Which type has more demand in the market? • Which one do you make? • What is the difference in its making techniques? • What is the speciality of each type? • How much does the procedure change according to each type? • Is there any specific working season? (sugicha kaal) • Do weather conditions affect its process? • What kind of precautions should be taken while in the process?

Product categories and range • • • • • • • • • • • •

How many items do you currently produce on a monthly basis? How many items do you currently sell on a monthly basis? As there are many types, Which types give you more proﬁt? Which type has more demand in the market? What is your approx. price range? Do you receive satisfactory income from it? Yes No If not, do you have any secondary source of income? Do you tailor your products to your customer's needs? To what extent do you think Kolhapuri chappals made from machineries have captured your part of the market? What is the lifespan of these chappals?

• • • • • •

How should the user take care of it? Do you only produce Chappals or with time have you increased your product line? Yes No If yes, What are those? If not, Would you like to explore more in this craft and make diﬀerent products other than Chappals?

Design and Inspiration • • •

Any idea about how these Kolhapuri Chappal making concepts came out? (mention historical background) As there are many types, what is the inspiration behind those various types and designs? Do you just copy traditional designs or keep experimenting on it?

Marketing and Branding • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

What is your primary market? Wholesaler Retailer Other What is your marketing strategy? How do you attract customers? What does your market like traditional designs or new innovative designs? To whom do you sell frequently? Do you export? If yes, when do they export (month)? At what level (city/state/national/international)? In what quantity (approx...)? Have any designers helped you in any way to get crafts recognized? As today’s market is all about online things, have you ever tried online marketing? Have you collaborated with any footwear brand? Do you know about Brands like Vhaan, Kolhapuri paytaan, Korakari who are on online platforms? Do such brands hire artisans from the city or are they highly dependent on machines? Do you think their online strategies have helped your craft to ﬂourish in the corner of the country?

GI Tag • • •

Do you know what GI (geographical indication) tag is? Any idea about its procedure? Do you know the beneﬁts of having a GI Tag?

• Are you aware that Kolhapuri Chappal has received the GI tag? Yes No

Imitation • • •

Are there any imitation Kolhapuri Chappals in the market? How can one recognise authentic kolhapuri chappal since there is a wide market of imitation kolhapuri chappal? What kind of false practices are done in this industry?

Government policies • •

Is there any Gov. Policy for artisans like you? Have you received any kind of support from any NGOs?

Sustainability • • • • • • • • • • •

How much waste is generated during this complete process? When you cut leather according to sizes there must be some leftover pieces. What do you do with it? If some pair gets spoiled (or becomes a faulty piece) What do you do with it? Is it a waste? Are complete Kolhapuri Chappals made using natural material only? Is it sustainable? Any idea of how much time a normal pair of Kolhapuri Chappals takes to degrade completely? Problems What problems do you face while practicing this craft? Are there any risky steps which might hurt an artisan? Have you seen or heard any accident happen at the workspace of Kolhapuri Chappals? As you are doing this work for many years, what are the health issues most of you face? Have you seen or heard any accident happen at the workspace of Kolhapuri Chappals?

Others • • • • •

There were 29 tanning centers started in Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj’s ruling period. In what condition they are now? Are they working? Would you please share some historical stories about Kolhapuri Chappals? Would you please tell us the health beneﬁts of these Kolhapuri Chappals? Have you ever tried to create its awareness? So is there any Footwear Festival or exhibition of special creations or any platform like that?