Aversion by Madison Paloski

Aversion May 2020

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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S *All images and quotations used throughout this publication that I am not the sole copywrite owner of are for educational purpose

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

TINA MAKUCH: EDITORIAL

DAY IN THE LIFE

MEET JULIA AUSTIN

FASHION SITES FOR LESS

LONDON TRAVEL GUIDE

TYLER MITCHELL

FASHION WEEK IN NYC

FASHION AND QUARANTINE

HIGH FASHION TALK

GENDER AND FASHION

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RUNWAY REVIEW

MEET THE EDITOR Ever since I was little, I was obsessed with fashion magazines. I collected the pages of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle, and filled my walls with every image. It’s through these magazines that I found my love and desire to be in the industry. To be frank- although I once cherised each issue, these magazines are becoming behind in the times. There is a gap in the market for a younger, more socially aware fashion publication made specifically for people either in the fashion industry or looking to be in the fashion industry. With that in mind, I created Aversion. Think of this as an “Anti-Vogue” of sorts. Aversion offer a more gender-neutral approach to fashion with more diversity, inclusion, and, most importantly, style. This issue will explore inside looks at current fashion professionals, including Tyler Mitchell, social media and the fashion industry through my ever favorite media source, High Fashion Talk, and the piece that’s closest to my heart, “Is Fashion Becoming More Gender Neutral?”, where I got to interview creatives in Boston regarding their style and the ever blurring line between gender and clothing. Every single piece of this magazine is me. From the editorials I directed, shot and styled, to the articles I have written, to the pages I’ve laid out. This is everything I as a young creative hope the fashion magazine industry will evolve to. Enjoy. Sincerely, Madison Paloski

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LIFE LIFE LIFE LIFE LIFE LIFE LIFE

JOSHUA MICHNA OF BUSHLAND

PHOTO PROVIDED JOSHUA MICHNA

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Joshua Michna rarely seems to have any free time. Between classes at Lasell University, he is the creative director and designer of contemporary brand, Bushland. We caught up with him and asked him what a typical Saturday looks like for him. 8:00 A.M.- Wake up. Friends are still asleep 5:00 P.M.- Hop back on the T to Hynes Con-

so it’s my downtime to chill, listen to music (most- vention Center and check out some of the shops on ly Baby Keem or Talking Heads recently), and scroll Newbury. Riccardi’s is great for higher-end pieces, through Instagram. but the atmosphere is a little snobbish so it’s a hit 9:00 A.M.- Shower. I shower every morning to or miss. All Too Human has more tasteful high-end help me wake up. I listen to more music, usually the pieces and lots of Rick [Owens] and Raf [Simons]. Sometimes I just like going in and feeling the clothes same playlist every day. and the construction of the materials to get some 9:30 A.M.- Coffee. insight on construction techniques for my own gar10:00 A.M.- Sewing in my room. I’m working ments and also inspiration for new projects. on a weaving project turning leftover rope into a pair 7:00 P.M.- I head back to school, grab dinner of pants. I bet my roommate a can of Arizona iced and maybe another coffee or two. tea that I’d finish it in one day. 7:30 P.M.- Back to sewing. I need to finish this 12:00 P.M.- Friends are finally up so it’s time to project so I can work on the next idea. I try not to get brunch. Another coffee or two. break another needle and try to clean up most of the 12:30 P.M.- I bring my camera out and walk to rope on the floor. a new photoshoot location. My friends bring their 10:00 P.M.- I listen to music, start sketching, skateboards and we goof around. I usually get a few and start reflecting in my journal for upcoming projgood shots and new inspiration. ects. I continue my water bottle series of sketches to 2:00 P.M.- I Take the T into Boston. Friends source inspiration for a new idea. prefer Uber but I like how long the train takes. 11:00 P.M.- My friends come over and this 3:00 P.M.- Hit Allston for thrifting. Urban Re- is our downtime to play video games and listen to newals just recently closed but it was the best spot more music. Maybe watch some YouTube. for funky women’s clothes. We go to all of the stores 1:00 A.M.- Prepare for the next day and finally, on the strip. Buffalo Exchange is another favorite. it’s time for bed. Vivant Vintage has curated vintage stuff all the way from the 60s. May 2020 | 5

TOP SITES TO SCORE HIGH FASHION FOR LESS SSENSE

Ssense is a luxury and streetwear e-commerce site based out of Montreal, Canada. Each item is a hundred percent authentic because the inventory comes directly from the brands and designers in its collection. The site ranges from already established brands, like Gucci and Versace, to up-and-coming brands, like Vetements and Yeezy. What’s amazing about this site is the sales. The brands and designers offer sales on Ssense on current on-trend pieces that they would not offer on their own personal websites. They can be sound at ssense.com.

POSHMARK

DEPOP

COLLAGE MADISON PALOSKI

Depop is the most accessible and easy to use site with it’s Instagram-like set up. The app is a great place to shop small businesses, vintage, and, of course, designer goods. Depop has more of a reputation of curating more inspiring and unique pieces, making it a top fashion buying pick with Gen Z. The app houses in total over 15 million stylists, designers, artists, collectors, and upand-coming influencers so you’re sure to discover inspiration somewhere. Depop can be downloaded in the Apple or Google store on a mobile device.

THE REALREAL

Similar to sites like eBay, Poshmark allows This is the number one place to snag your users to sell each other clothes, accessecondhand designer goods from. The sories, and makeup. Users have a large site offers honest descriptions about the variety of higher and lower end items to pieces and professional quality photos choose from. Poshmark is not only an so you know exactly what you’re getting. online marketplace app, but it also alPlus, all of the items go through an intense lows it’s users to use it as a social media authentication process so you know what platform as well where buyers can follow you’re getting is the real deal. Another sellers, types of items they’re interested in, great thing with the RealReal is the option and brands that they love. Although this to consign as well. They let you turn in is a great place to score some deals, they your gently used pieces into store credit only authenticate their designer products for your next splurge. They can be found if they are over five hundred dollars, so at therealreal.com. choose wisely. Poshmark can be downloaded in the Apple or Google store on a mobile device. 6 | Aversion

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P H O T O S I N S TA G R A M @ T Y L E R S P H O T O S

TYLER MITCHELL, THE PHOTOGRAPHER CHANGING IT ALL

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From shooting skate videos in his hometown, to shooting the cover of Vogue with Beyoncé, to having his very own solo art exhibit, Tyler Mitchell is becoming one of the most powerful photographers in the fashion world. At just 25 years old, photographer and filmmaker, Tyler Mitchell, has created a name for himself and his creative universe he simply calls his “self- contained black utopia”. His powerful images have been seen gracing the pages of avant-garde magazines, published by powerful fashion houses, and exhibited in world-renowned institutions. Once just an unnamed photographer shooting skate videos with his friends in high school, Mitchell has become one of the most soughtafter fashion photographers today. Mitchell, who grew up in Marietta, Georgia, didn’t originally see himself picking up a camera. It wasn’t until his skater friend introduced him to a Canon 7D that he decided to save up and purchase one himself in the ninth grade. After that moment, he was

hooked. Inspired by Spike Jonze’s early skate videos and dreamy aesthetic, Mitchell began to teach himself how to create his own videos and imagery, all through the help of the Internet. He told Vogue in an interview, “I’m definitely a YouTube-generation kid. I learned how to make movies and how to edit that way. I quickly formed my point of view.” After this experience, he then went on to attend and graduate from the New York University Tisch School of the Arts, pursuing a film degree. An ambitious kid with an urge to create and a camera in hand, Mitchell spent six weeks during his time at NYU on a trip to Havana, Cuba to complete a documentary photography course. It was here that he was studying and surveying skateboarding life and the architecture May 2020 | 9

in Havana, building a photography portfolio, and turning it into what would be his first step into the publishing world, his 108-page self-published book he titled El Paquete.

i-D Magazine, Dazed Magazine, and The FADER to name a few. In terms of fashion brands, Mitchell has seen his work in Comme des Garçons, Calvin Klein, Prada, Loewe, JW Anderson, Givenchy, and more.

His work at this point in his life had just been seen Aside from working with brands and magazines, through his homemade films, music videos for rapMitchell presented his first solo presentation, I Can per Kevin Abstract, and short Make You Feel Good, at the photography work with Teen “I’m interested in showing Foam Fotografienmuseum in Vogue, documenting teen gun Amsterdam in 2019. This prea certain community, reform activists for the magsentation featured portraits of azine’s digital issue. That was intimacy, optimism, sense celebrities, fashion editorials, until he was chosen to phohis friends, and his adopted of play, and freedom, tograph the September 2019 family following one theme: issue of Vogue with Beyoncé. rather than focusing on optimism within blackness. Being the youngest photograany other aspects that In an interview with AnOther pher to shoot for Vogue at the age of 23 and the first Afrisometimes black artists about the exhibit, Mitchell can- American to ever shoot said, “I’m interested in showget thrown into the throes the cover in all of its 128 years ing a certain community, of existence, Mitchell made of needing to talk about.” intimacy, optimism, sense of history. play, and freedom, rather than focusing on any other aspects that sometimes black The fashion world more than any other is known for artists get thrown into the throes of needing to talk being ageist, but that seems to be changing slowly, about.” with Mitchell paving the way for this. In an interview with the YouTube channel, The Creator Class, This exhibit has since passed and has moved to The Mitchell recalls that he had many people ten years International Center of Photography in New York older than him not take his work seriously or respect City, where it will be on display until May 18th, him due to how young he was. However, many of 2020. the people thirty to forty years older than him have been open to giving him a chance. He quotes that His favorite part about photography? Seeing people even though they are reluctant, they are aware the like him in his work. fashion world is changing and there is a new voice in charge. The only perspective that could change He told The Creator Class, “Now is the time to avidly things today is that of younger people. and ruthlessly see myself in pictures. See people who look like me, and to see dark-skinned people in “We’re having a moment now where people are realfashion pictures. You hear these words like diversity izing we have to really push some power to people. and representation and all these terms and it’s like, Things are becoming democratized super fast. There what the hell does any of that mean? What it means are the same five people shooting every single camis what you have in you to connect with someone paign and every single image that you would see on else.” the train station, magazines, etc.,” he told The Creator Class. “People were ready for a different author You can find Mitchell on Instagram, @tylersphotos, and a different regime and I just happened to have and his website, tylermitchell.co. been able to be a vehicle for that.” Since, shooting for Vogue, Mitchell has racked up quite a powerful client list. His selected magazine work spans from American Vogue, British Vogue, 10 | Aversion

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FA S H I O N I N T H E A G E OF A QUARANTINE

COLLAGE MADISON PALOSKI

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COVID-19 has changed all aspects of life for everyone. For many people, getting ready and following a specific fashion routine are essential to their daily schedules. Fashion creatives use these daily routines and sense of dress as forms of self-expression, so now, many are lost. How are fashion creatives getting along with the self-isolation rules put in place due to COVID-19? We asked a few and here’s what they had to say: Cora Lynn, 19, Maine

Mohammed Milan, 20, New York

Julia Steves, 20, Connecticut

Cora finds that not picking out her outfits has made her feel like she doesn’t need to look a certain way. However, she also quotes that she doesn’t feel as motivated every day because she’s not getting up and getting ready in the morning. She feels she hasn’t been productive and just been lazy by staying in pajamas every day.

Mohammed is a current full-time student at the University of Buffalo. With class digital, he finds himself not leaving the house. He is fairly disappointed not being able to wear his clothes outside and being able to show off his creative style but still tries to dress up once in a while.

Julia is seen as an essential employee at Star Market, so she’s been staying intact with her basic routines. Although she isn’t dressing up in anything other than her work uniform, she still tries to stay motivated.

She said, “I’ve been really inspired in theory by staying on social He said, “Funny enough, I think it’s made me slightly more creative in my media more often, but in reality, I She said, “I’ve stopped thinking of choices because I have so much time haven’t gotten dressed up.” outfits. I’m just at my house all the on my hands. However, It’s also kind She states she has been using time so I wear pj’s and I don’t care.” of sad because I have nowhere to Pinterest and Instagram to source wear my clothes.” inspiration to plan outfits for the She notices that she hasn’t really been expressing herself either. She writes To find other outlets, he has been im- future when this is all over. She is poetry sometimes but has mostly just mersing himself in research, window an avid thrifter, so not being able been using Instagram to express her- shopping, and YouTube videos about to do that has her in a rut right self. She finds she has been slacking fashion. When he does feel like dress- now. She’s also been really into with being creative and expressive ing up to get a sense of normalcy, he experimenting with makeup recently, like colored eyeliners and and that it may have to do with not tries to use social media as an outlet mascaras, because it’s a really easy being able to dress up every day. to show off his outfits and connect way to still change her look up with others without going outside. when she’s feeling bored. May 2020 | 13

PHOTOGRAPHY CRIS FRAGKOU

REVIEW: MAISON MARGIELA GIVES CLOTHING A SECOND LIFE IN BREATHTAKING SHOW 14 | Aversion

The crowd waits with anticipation to see what British designer John Galliano has in store for the avant-garde fashion house Maison Margiela, every season always bolder and more unique than the last. The music starts and the audience is awoken to spurs of light and color. There’s an explosion of textures, fabrics, and prints as the models march one by one down the runway. There’s one recurring word on each of the model’s garments“Recicla”.

The colors in the show, inspired by Edward Hopper’s paintings, made it hard to take your eyes off of. Only Galliano himself could pull off pairing typical fall colors such as mauve, brown, orange, muted yellows, and neutrals with typical spring pastels and then bold and striking pops of red and dark green all in one collection. Also notable were the fabrics used. Each outfit contained at least one piece of fur, thick velvet, and sheer organza.

“Galliano has a habit of

When our clothes no longer fit, Simply, it was a mess. However, it being quite noticeable, or simply just go out of style, was done in a way that forced the something every where do they go? Many end up audience to view from an artistic being donated, upcycled, or even standpoint, reiterating that fashion designer dreams of.” thrown out. Fashion houses are is in fact art. Although the clothes usually at the tail end of this concept, going as far as were outstandingly beautiful, the biggest takeaway burning old clothes in order to make sure no one can was the reflection that society today needs to be more get their hands on them. As we dive into 2020, sustain- conscious of their consumption and in the moment. ability has become more prevalent than ever in the fashion world and many companies have pledged to lessen their contribution to the second most environmentally harmful industry. Galliano bravely explores this idea through his latest work by not necessarily creating something new, but instead upcycling past house items and turning them into something postmodern, unique, and quite shocking. When talking about his inspirations of restoration for the show, Galliano quotes the previous process that the founding fashion house members practiced. Each member would find their most valuable pieces and duplicate them right down to the stitch count, seams, and fabrics to preserve them. Galliano takes this theory and spins it in order to make it relevant to today’s culture, yet still tell the story and narrative of fashion’s most iconic house. Each garment is handpicked and twisted by Galliano himself and includes labels on each featuring where he found each piece and the era in which it was saved. With fashion month approaching its end, I found myself bored as each runway show came and went. That is, however, until John Galliano presented Maison Margiela in Paris. Galliano has a habit of being quite noticeable, something every designer dreams of. This collection is no exception. As lines begin to blur between fashion and activism, sustainability has become almost a trend in itself. In order to stay relevant in the fashion world now, you need to be on that trend. Through his recent collections, Galliano seems to now be leading that trend.

PHOTOGRAPHY ARMANDO GRILLO

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T I N A M A K U C H PHOTOGRAPHER M A D I S O N PA L O S K I STYLISTS M A D I S O N PA L O S K I BRIANNA SERIO MODEL TINA MAKUCH

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S W E AT E R H . E . R . FA S H I O N PA N T S H E L M U T L A N G

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J A C K E T V I N TA G E B E LT TA R G E T G L O V E S D O O WAY

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DRESS ZARA

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TIGHTS GUCCI

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JULIA AUSTIN

PHOTOGRAPHY MADISON PALOSKI

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WHAT ARE THE TOP FASHION MUST HAVES IN YOUR CLOSET RIGHT NOW?

A PAIR OF DOC MARTENS I wear my pair of Docs with almost everything. I never really buy new shoes because it’s all I ever wear on most days. OVERSIZED GRAPHIC TEES Two of my favorite things to do are going thrifting and going to shows so I’m always wearing an oversized graphic tee that I picked up at one of the two. Comfort is really important to me so a lot of my must-haves are oversized pieces that can be easily mixed or matched. LEATHER JACKETS I have one leather jacket that I got at Global Thrift in Waltham. It’s my top favorite closet staple and makes every outfit look put together and complete. FLORAL MIDI DRESSES A floral midi dress is a total must for spring and summer. It’s easy to throw on and makes for an effortless look when you don’t feel like putting together an outfit! WIDE LEG PANTS I’m so happy that the skinny jean trend is over because I am obsessed with anything wide leg for pants or jeans. I love the workwear/ carpenter jean look with a cute tank top. SLIP DRESSES Staples for going out looks for me would definitely include some sort of slip dress, which is another item that’s easy to dress up or dress down. If I’m going out, I’ll wear that and throw on a pair of sheer tights with some ankle boots, like my favorite white cowboy ones. STATEMENT RINGS For accessorizing, I’ve been super into statement rings. I love stacking them on the same finger because they look really cool! I can’t decide if I’m a silver or gold type of person so I break the rules and just wear both at the same time.

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YOUR ULTIMATE TRAVEL GUIDE TO LONDON

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Tired of the same old tourist sights? This comprehensive guide will show you what creatives should be seeking on their trip abroad: SHOPPING Dover Street Market 18-22 Haymarket, West End, London SW1Y 4DG Created by fashion icon Rei Kawakubo of Japanese fashion label, Comme des Garçons, and her husband, Adrian Joffe, this market is the place to snag all of your favorite high fashion brands, including Celine, J.W. Anderson, LOEWE, and more. The Library 1994 268 Brompton Rd, London SW3 2AS This private fashion library tucked away in quiet Kensington will surely be your go-to for hand-picked avant-garde and artisanal fashion. Old Spitalfields Market 16 Horner Square, London E1 6EW This flea and street market is perfect for vintage lovers. It’s close to the fashion district of Shoreditch so you’re sure to find some hidden gems.

FOOD Cookdaily 2-10 Bethnal Green Rd, Shoreditch, London E1 6GY Vegans rejoice, this one is for you. Cookdaily offers everything from veggie bowls with rice to vegan chicken and mushroom pie. Wheatsheaf 6 Stoney St, London SE1 9AA You need to eat fish and chips at least once on your trip. This pub is the best place for real ales and modern British dishes. Duck & Waffle 110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY Want a late-night snack with a view? This restaurant is open 24/7 and offers a 360 view of London from high above. They serve all sorts of food, but of course their show-stopping dish is the Duck & Waffle meal complete with a crispy leg confit, fried duck egg, a waffle, and mustard maple syrup. Patty&Bun 22-24 Liverpool St, London EC2M 7PD The reviews don’t lie, this is the only place you should go to for burgers in London. They offer huge meat burgers as well as vegan and gluten-free options.

SIGHTS Brick Lane Closest tube stop: Aldgate East Brick Lane is home to some of London’s best food, shops, and street art, located right in the heart of East London. This place is a one-stop-shop for any creative looking to gain some inspiration. God’s Own Junkyard Unit 12 Ravenswood Industrial Estate Shernhall Street. London E17 9HQ Only London would have an entire warehouse wonderland dedicated to neon signs. Not to mention it was used as a location for the cover of Vogue in 2011. Chalk Farm Primrose Hill, London NW1 8XJ Chalk Farm is a small urban district you wouldn’t think twice about visiting. However, they offer the best view of the city of London upon Primrose Hill.

ART & CULTURE Tate Modern Bankside, London SE1 9TG This art museum celebrates art in the past and present showcasing complex and diverse risk-taking artists. They currently have exhibitions featuring Andy Warhol and one of Yayoi Kusama’s famous infinity rooms. Victoria & Albert Museum Cromwell Rd, Knightsbridge, London SW7 2RL This museum is the world’s leading museum of art and design. What’s best about this location is it’s intent to incorporate fashion into the mix. Their must-see fashion exhibits have included Frida Kahlo and Tim Walker to name a few. Art Words Bookshop 20-22 Broadway Market, London E8 4PH Print is NOT dead in London. They specialize in visual arts books and magazines based on subjects such as fashion, graphic design, photography, and fine art. If you’re a lover of indie fashion magazines, this is a must-see. Saatchi Gallery Duke of York’s HQ King’s Road, London SW3 4RY This museum focuses heavily on contemporary art and many of the artists shown are unknown when first exhibited to viewers and the commercial art world. This place operates as a great introduction to the contemporary art world as well as a leap for young artists to launch their careers.

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5 THINGS TO DO IN VISIT THE MET COSTUME INSTITUTE NYC DURING FASHION WEEK Loved the theme of this year’s MET Gala? You can see a curated glimpse into the theme with the Costume Institute’s exhibits, located on the ground floor of the MET Museum, located at 1000 5th Ave, New York, NY. Aside from the special exhibits, the Costume Institute is also home to over thirty- three thousand objects from seven different centuries of fashion.

ATTEND EVENTS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC

Stores and vendors see fashion week as the time to showcase their new collections, and often, this is the best time to snag the best deals at pop-up shops as well. Not only that, but there are many runway shows that are also open to the public that you can gain access to by buying tickets through fashionweekonline.com.

THRIFT IN SOHO Soho, located near the Prince St. Subway station, is best known for its hidden shopping treasures. Take advantage of being in one of the greatest fashion hubs in the world by checking out all of the thrift and vintage stores there. Not only will you be scoring some amazing fashion pieces, but you’ll also be shopping sustainably. It’s a win-win!

CHECK OUT THE FIT MUSEUM The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, located at 227 W 27th St, New York, NY, is one of many specialized fashion museums that New York City has to offer. Their mission is to curate exhibitions, programs, and publications that are both entertaining and educational and they are known for some of the most innovative and award- winning special exhibits.

PEOPLE WATCH Probably the best part of any fashion week around the world is the street style moments. This is a great time to scout the latest trends, gain some style inspiration, and maybe even meet your favorite fashion blogger while waiting to get into the show. Who knows, you may even get your photo taken by a street photographer.

COLLAGE MADISON PALOSKI

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PHOTOS I-D MAGAZINE: FOUNDER AND COMMUNITY MEMBERS

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Wondering how some individuals stay up to date on doesn’t run it alone. There are currently 18 admins the latest fashion trends and happenings around the and 15 moderators running the account making sure world? They may be a part of the ever-growing Facethat all 32,000 members are adhering to guidelines, book group, High Fashion Talk. For many people, having their posts approved, and staying connected. Facebook is the last place to consider seeking fashion advice. The demand for Facebook is seen predomiHarrison Hunter, Edwards’ right-hand man, business nantly from older generations and Twitter, YouTube, manager, and managing editor for the group told i-D and Instagram are the go-to places for millennials why he loves the group and why he continues to be a and Gen-Z to consume industry gossip and the latest part of it. He said, “[The high fashion industry] is a runway show collections. However, Facebook has a one-sided conversation for the consumer. It’s hard to large array of private groups find a position where you for just about any community “Thanks to groups like HFT, can be one on one with and one of the top contenders and actually talk with a click of a button you someone is fashion. about something you’re can share your fashion woos passionate about. If everyIn this group, people endlesslinks up and joins the and woes with upward of 32 one ly talk about (you guessed it) dots more, it really does thousand members from join us all up to make an fashion. Some posts are about daily outfits, latest shopping ecosystem. It’s about being all over the world.” pickups, runway impressions connected.” and reactions, and some are even shameless self plugs. The best part about the group? The sense of Both Edwards and Hunter agree that this sense of community it offers. Too many times it’s hard to find community and shared space is one of the main realike-minded individuals to talk or get advice about sons for the group. shared interests. Thanks to groups like HFT, with a click of a button you can share your fashion woos and Hunter added, “It’s hard to find that community in woes with upward of 32 thousand members from all your hometown or school, and often those environover the world. ments are very exclusionary of these kinds of interests. Some of our younger members say that with how they Created by Iolo Edwards in 2017, HFT started as just dress and what they’re interested in, they have a very a way for the 28-year-old to get other’s thoughts and hard time at school or whatever, and their self-expresto start a conversation of the fashion world. He recalls sion is squashed by their environment.” in an interview with i-D Magazine that he joined The Basement, a Facebook group that focused on streetThe community is made up mainly of younger people wear and the concept of the hypebeast, but never consisting of micro-influencers, designers, fashion really felt like he fit in. He found himself not quite into junkies, editors, writers, and students just to name streetwear culture, but still longed for some sort of a few. No matter what role you play in the fashion fashion community. community, this group is a great resource to not only stay up to date on the latest fashion news but to also In the interview, he said, “There have always been network with fellow fashion obsessives from every these small communities online, but historically continent. they’ve been based on specific brands or sales. I’d always wanted to do something like that but never High Fashion Talk really knew how to start it. I was listening to podcasts, reading brands’ Wikipedia pages, watching ShowStudio, or the old show reports on Style.com. I’ve always @hftgroup been obsessed with these discussions happening, but never had anybody to discuss with.” Although Edwards was the start of the community, he

highfashiontalk.com

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ASHION TRENDING GENDER NEUTRAL? PHOTOGRAPHER M A D I S O N PA L O S K I STYLISTS M A D I S O N PA L O S K I BRIANNA SERIO MODELS HANNAH BOWERMAN SAM BETTENCOURT TERRENCE THEUS

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Picture this: it’s the 1950s. After the Great Depression and World War II panned out, many Americans were looking for some sort of balance and peace. Through seeking this peace came the idea of gender roles, conformity, and strict dress that complied with society’s expectations. The men wore pants and worked, the women wore skirts, and even though they worked, they were seen mainly as wives and mothers. Even though the 1950s were a huge influential point in the creation of gender roles, many decades since the beginning of time have found themselves with certain dress codes per gender-- until recently. Fast forward over half of a century and things are far from how they ever were. Both women and men work and compete in top-level corporate positions, can be stay at home parents if they choose to do so, and can both equally dress however they prefer. In the last few years, both men and women have found ways to escape the status quo and shake up the fashion world, creating a blur between the lines of gender and dressing. The high fashion world is known to start even the most obnoxious trends with a single catwalk show or Instagram photo. However, one not so obnoxious trend that they have made come to the foreground has been the idea of gender-neutral clothing. Gucci has seen quite an improvement since the appointment of its Creative Director, Alessandro Michele, in 2015. Compared to the rigid gender roles set foot from the previous Creative Director, Tom Ford, Michele has paved the way and opened up the conversation about blurring the lines of fashion and gender through whimsical designs and uniqueness, which many other fashion houses took notice of and had started to embrace themselves. Just this past season, according to Vogue Magazine’s Runway Report section of their website, many brands such as Gucci and Maison Margiela ditched the separate fashion weeks and had created their own co-ed and unisex shows, something normally atypical for the high fashion world. Many brands have been spreading this idea to the general population as well. Calvin Klein, for example, has recently re-released a fragrance called CKOne that has what they call a “genderless” scent.

collection + genderless fragrance designed for every one of you.” With times changing, it’s no wonder why brands are targeting this genderless approach to fashion and beauty towards the younger demographics. But are brands encouraging this as a “trend” or is this because society is starting to become more accepting? Generation Z has been noted as being more accepting to change and diversity than any other generation. According to the Pew Research Center, as reported by Quartz, “Youth in the US are far more comfortable than previous generations with people not identifying as either a man or a woman. Almost 60% of those aged 13 to 21—members of ‘Generation Z’—believe forms that ask about gender should include options besides ‘man’ or ‘woman’.” According to the same statistics, this compares to half of Millennials (aged 22 to 37) and just over 30% of Baby Boomers (54 to 72). This is evident in the people we surround ourselves with on a daily basis as well. Through interviews with college fashion students, they had a lot to say regarding gender and dress. Hannah Bowerman, a senior fashion design student at Lasell University, has a very eclectic way of dressing. She takes inspiration for how she dresses from art and movies that she sees or likes which is always changing. Right now, her current inspirations come from directors David Lynch and Dario Argento both whose styles are a bit creepy, surreal, and very unique. She considers herself a very visual person so she loves reading magazines or looking at Instagram and taking everything in to then be able to transfer to something that is her own fashion. When she was younger, she moved around a lot and said that traveling and being open to how people present themselves differently from all over the world is what she likes to attribute her unique sense of style to.

She said, “I never wanted to fit in wherever I was so I experimented constantly with reinventing clothes I In a description on their YouTube channel following had and wearing whatever I felt like. I sometimes got one of their ads they said, “Inspired by the authentic and lost in trying to find a name for my style, but I loved youthful-minded who are unconstrained by boundaries, being able to dress sporty one day then really girly the gender norms, and definitions, this is our Spring 2020 next then all black the day after so I decided to get rid 36 | Aversion

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of the idea of finding a perfect label for my style and just embrace the wild mess of a person I express myself as.”

Annabel Lee explained that as a nonbinary person their issue with gender-neutral clothing is that many brands claim to be “genderless” or “unisex”, but in When asked, Bowerman said she thinks gender is very reality, it is essentially just women in oversized masrelative and personal to each and every person. She culine leaning clothing or maybe a guy in a skirt. An hopes that people can just dress example they gave was the ASOS however they want to rather than collusion line. They recalled that the “But are brands feel constricted to their specific line only had women/ femme models gender rules. She hates the idea of encouraging this as a in the line’s skirts and dresses. any kind of restrictions on what “trend” or is this people can or can’t wear so she They said, “Change isn’t in producbecause society is tion, it’s in the marketing. If it’s a chooses to omit typical ideas of gender in fashion for herself and starting to become genderless collection then promote mix things up in any way she wishand sell it as such properly, don’t just more accepting?” es to. use nonbinary and gender non conforming people as a trendy marketing Sam Bettencourt, another senior fashion design student ploy. If I can I will put my money towards brands that at Lasell University, also explained their style and how don’t force me into one half of the website and that it relates to their identity. They would describe their hire people like me throughout the company not just style to lean more towards layering and textures such as models for diversity points.” as distress, mesh, chains or hardware, iridescence, and metallics. What Sam loves most of all is incorporating a Many brands and heterosexual cis-gendered people corset into their every day look. They believe that wear- profit over these issues while nonbinary, queer, and ing a corset every day has given them the ability to play trans people are being killed and bullied for what they with silhouettes and drastically change their look. are wearing. “I identify as non-binary, meaning that my gender identity can change on a day to day basis. I use my clothing Many of these brands usually follow suit that femias a key factor in my gender expression,” they said. “My nine presenting people have to “look” a certain way outfits will represent certain levels of either femininity as having curves, being soft, and smooth, while masor masculinity depending on how I am feeling that day. culine-presenting people have to be hard, chiseled, Most often though I feel somewhere in between and and tough. Many people disregard this due to cisnorfind ways to use aspects from both sides of gender to mativity, the assumption that everyone is cisgender influence my dress.” and that cisgender people are superior to transgender people, according to Queerenby’s Mini Dictionary of Sam believes that fashion is absolutely shifting towards LGBT terms. becoming more gender-neutral. When asked, Sam said they believe gender-bending is becoming more mainAt the end of the day, all clothes are inherently genderstream and individuals are beginning to find a comfort/ less. Nothing is legally or physically stopping anyone escapism in jumping through various identities. of any gender to buy or wear a clothing item. Clothing and gender roles can instead be seen as prescribed by They continued, “With gender being so open, more peo- society. A skirt by itself is just a piece of clothing. It ple are allowing themselves to explore all of the various isn’t feminine on its own, but society has taught people possibilities within identity; ultimately finding comfort that it is associated with feminine clothing. There is in their fluid expression.” no exactly telling if society will ever be fully accepting of clothing becoming entirely genderless, but the new However, not everyone in the nonbinary community wave of acceptance from Generation Z and the genfeels this way. der-neutral “trend” in the fashion world gives hope that it may be closer than we think. When asked how they feel about gender and clothing in the Facebook group, High Fashion Talk, Facebook user May 2020 | 39

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