PANACHE

GRADUATION PROJECT SUBMITTED IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE GRADUATION REQUIREMENT OF

BACHELOR OF DESIGN (TEXTILE DESIGN) STUDENT: MADHURI MENON FACULTY GUIDE: Prof. V.R.KARTHIKEYARAYAN SPONSOR: SYNTHESIS HOME TEXTILES PVT LTD, KARUR

BATCH 2011 - 2015 DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE DESIGN NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY CHENNAI

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

First and foremost I would like to thank Synthesis Home Textiles Pvt Ltd, Karur , especially the Managing Director Mr. P Sudhakar who had given me an opportunity to carry out the Graduation Project in his company ,sharing his valuable time and knowledge which has helped to look at the textile world differently. I would also like to thank him for his valuable feedbacks and support through out the project.

Next I would like express my gratitude towards the Sampling team of Synthesis who have put in an effort to produce the samples and give suggestions and comments to make the project better. I was constantly guided and supported by Mr. Kasilingam ,HR

in all my

activities in the company. I would also like to express my gratitude to all the staff members and officials who have shared their valuable time with me which has helped me complete the project successfully.

I would also like to thank my faculty guide Mr. VR Karthikeyarayan for his support and Guidance throughout the Project. I would also like to extent my gratitude towards National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai for giving this opportunity to work in the textile industry, and have a more closer look at the export market.

Last but not the least , I would like to thank God almighty, My parents and friends who have supported through all my endeavors.

CONTENTS Synopsis 1 Synthesis Home Textiles 4 Company Profile 5 Vision and Mission 6 Certifications 7 Organizational Hierarchy 8 Infrastructure 9 Design Unit 10 Products 11 Surface Techniques Used in Different Products 13 Markets 15

Stories Developed for Spring Summer 2016 RETREIVAL 50 INGENUITY 56 BLOSSOM 62 TINTED 67 STRIPES AND COLOR BLOCKS 73

Market Research and Trend Study 19 KOHLS 20 CRATE AND BARREL 22 POTTERYBARN 25 ANTHROPOLOGIE 28 WILLIAM SONOMA 31 BED , BATH AND BEYOND 32 BALLARD DESIGNS 35 ANALYSIS OF THE MARKET STUDY 36 Trend Study 37 Analysis of the Trend Study 48

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CONTENTS I st Collection BLURRING BOUNDARIES

II st Collection NURTURING IMPRINTS

Sponsor’s Brief 77 Brainstorming 78 Boards 79 Restatement of brief 85 Short Description of Shibori 86 Short Description of Origami 87 Initial Concepts 88 Final Concepts 105 Layout Explorations 111 Specification Sheets 131 Photo shoot 154

Sponsor’s Brief 156 Brainstorming 157 Boards 158 Restatement of brief 163 Initial Concepts 164 Final Concepts 186 Layout Explorations 187 Specification Sheets 198 Photo shoot 210

Conclusion Bibliography

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SYNOPSIS

Panache , is a compilation of all the hard work put together in these 18 weeks of Graduation Project .

Graduation Project is the first step towards the dynamic textile industry. This has given a chance to deal with buyers, different markets, understanding the trends and products in the market and designing for them through a step wise design process.

Panache means flamboyant spirit. The Graduation Project is named so as both the collections shows once ability to live according to his or her traditions and responsibilities towards society and nature.

The first collection is based on the story RETREIVAL which tells the story of one’s responsibilities towards his traditions and culture. The collection includes techniques in embroidery , printing (engineered & rotary) and weaving.

The Second Collection deals with elements and textures from nature based on the story TINTED. This collection is completely based on Screen printing and a few weaving techniques.

Both the collections are home furnishing collections for the US market. These collections were designed for Synthesis Home textiles Pvt Ltd, Karur, Tamilnadu which is an export house concentrating in home furnishing.

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“Be willing to be a beginner every single morning�

Panache is all about ones spirit, willingness or the energy to get going in life. This project is something similar.

To be a better human being, our culture, traditions , art etc contributes a lot. Everyday is a new day, a new start.

Everyday should be a start to a new life. This is only possible through your love to nature, culture and art.

The two collections that i have developed here is an effort to induce this love in each person’s mind.

One for the love towards art and other for the nature.

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KARUR

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SYNTHESIS HOME TEXTILES PVT LTD, KARUR

Synthesis Home Textiles Pvt Ltd 69-74 Sidco Industrial Estate Salem Bye Pass Road Karur - 639006 India

Phone : 04324-223903,223904 Fax : 04324-223886 Website - www.synthesis.co.in

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COMPANY PROFILE

Synthesis was started as a partnership firm in 1999 at Karur , India for the manufacture of home textiles to the US and European markets. It has since grown manifold and became a private limited company in 2005. Synthesis’s state of art manufacturing unit is situated in Karur , in the state of Tamilnadu, India , a few miles away from Coimbatore , which has earned the discerning repute as “ The Manchester of South India”. Karur by itself stands out as one of the top textile hubs in India and Synthesis’s unit is ranked among the top five in Karur.

Being in Karur , Synthesis has access to three major sea ports and international airports making it conveniently adhere to timely delivery of goods. Karur is easily accessible from Delhi, Bangalore, Chennai and Mumbai by air/ road/ rail. Synthesis has earned a strong footage in all the leading markets over the globe – US , Canada, Sweden, Denmark, Netherlands, France, Spain , Australia , UK and Japan.

The force which is responsible for the continuous growth of Synthesis and which helps in achieving its vision is a team consisting of Mr. P Sudhakar , Managing Director who is directly involved in marketing, manufacturing , sourcing, costing , pricing and product development with 15 years of experience in home textile business . Mr. S Madhu , Joint Managing Director, takes care of all factory activities including manufacturing, purchasing , packaging , Shipments, audits and Human Resources . Mrs. Sandhya Sudhakar , Director , takes care of designing , Sampling and infrastructure development. The team also includes Mrs. Sabitha Bhengra , Mrs. Neeta Revankar and Mr. D Kalyan Kumar, Directors who takes care of finance , Legal , Export promotion, Domestic and Corporate affairs.

VISION & MISSION An ISO 9001-2000 certified company; Synthesis is quality centric in its working style. The core of its successful work philosophy is that it is time, quality and result sensitive.

QUALITY POLICY Synthesis is committed to supply fabric and home textile products to their esteemed customers as per agreed specification And delivering them on time. This is achieved by dedicated and sincere efforts of the employees and suppliers and by continual Improvement through enhanced quality system.

FACTORY COMPLIANCE Synthesis’s factory complies with all labor laws relating to wages , working hours, health and safety issues and all other issues. Synthesis provides a clean and healthy working environment for its workers. Synthesis does not engage any child labor or forced labor . Human Right Standards are set at highest level.

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CERTIFICATIONS Synthesis guarantees not only quality but also the safety of its product and services. GOTS - Global Organic Textile Standards certified by Bureau Veritas ISO 9001 – 2008 certified by Control Union BSCI – Bureau of Social Compliance Initiatives certified by SGS SEDEX - Supplier Ethical Data Exchange OEKO TEX Product testing Laboratory approved by SGS Factory Quality and compliance certifications from Li & Fung , ITS , PWC , Walmart , JCPenney and Sears National Accreditation Board for Certification Bodies ( NABCB) United Kingdom Accreditation Services (UKAS ) REACH norms

The volume of exports with Synthesis’s trusted customers has been steadily increasing over the years , thereby enabling the company to attain “Export House” recognition by the Government of India for outstanding performance in exports.

ORGANISATIONAL HIERARCHY

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INFRASTRUCTURE The company has vertical and integrated in – house facilities that is they have their own production units expect for dyeing due to environmental restrictions.

Unit 1 and unit 2 are exclusively for fabric inspection , Cutting and Stitching , Quality Control , Checking and packaging.

The Showroom , Synthesis Pergola showcases a wide variety of products manufactured in Synthesis.

Unit 2 to has all the facilities for yarn sourcing and storage , fiber filling , Stores and stocking Area .

Unit 3 is the weaving unit which contains 18 shuttle less vamatex dobby looms along with wide width sectional warping machine.

Unit 1 also contains the Administrative block consisting of Documentation and Communication Department , Finance and Accounts, HR and Sampling Department

DESIGN UNIT The company enjoys the benefit of two textile designers and three CAD designers The CAD designers work under the specifications and details given to them by the textile designers and the merchandisers. The textile designers work on the designs, as per the taste and preferences of the buyers. Sometimes the kind of motif, the color scheme, the layout of the design and even the placement of the labels in the product will be detailed by the buyers itself. The designers should possess the technical know-how of the kind of weaves to be used, the count, no: of shafts etc. The CAD designers use the computer softwares of Textronics, 3D-Pro (3D Imaging), Corel draw, Adobe Photoshop and Adobe illustrator. The company has also employed three merchandisers who are assisted in their jobs by two junior merchandisers. The main clients whom the merchandisers deal with are U.S.A and U.K. based buying houses. These merchandisers are the link between the buyers and the company. It takes a maximum of 15 days for the first set of samples to be manufactured.

Design Flow Chart Buyer

Merchandiser

Designer

Sampling Unit

Stitching Department

Production unit Here the design specifications are passed on from the buyer to the merchandiser and then to the Textile designer, who works on them and sends the designs to the buyers for approval. (In the absence of the textile designer, the CAD artist is solely responsible for the execution of the design.). The approved design is passed onto the CAD artist who execute the design onto the products digitally using different soft wares. The CAD artist explain the product details to the sampling unit. They discuss the product details with the stitching department and a particular time schedule is set for the first set of samples to be manufactured. The first set of samples is again sent to the buyers for confirmation of the color ,quality, construction sizes etc. When the final alterations are done on the first set of samples, bulk orders are made for the production of the product as per the number desired by the client.

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PRODUCTS Synthesis produces both printed and woven products. Surface manipulations also play an important role in company’s product success. The surface manipulations include embroidery, fabric manipulations like pleats, tucks, shirring and quilting .

A variety of prints are available like direct prints, blotch prints, flock prints and rubber prints. They also have dobby designs which includes Checks and Stripes and Jacquards which makes use of 400 , 600 or 800 hooks. They also produce eco friendly fabrics made of organic cotton and mats made of palm fibers.  Table and Kitchen Linen Collection - Table cloth, Napkins, Tablemats (fused, rib, basket), Table runner, Kitchen towel, Cushion, Chair pad, Pot holder, Mitts , Gloves and Apron.  Shower Curtains  Bedding Collection - Duvet covers , Decorative Pillows and Cushions  Living Room Collection – Curtains, Cushions, shams , Floor Cushions and throws  Outdoor Furnishings - Outdoor Cushions, Chair pads, Seat pads , Beach mats , Roll up beds  Woven flannel scarves  Carpets and Rugs

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Carpets & rugs

Floor Cushions

Bedding

Table linens & Kitchen Towels Kitchen Towels Aprons Placemats

Blinds

Curtains & Throws

Cushions

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SURFACE TECHNIQUES IN DIFFERENT PRODUCTS

 Embroidery which includes boucle embroidery, ari work , couching , chain stitches etc  Appliqués  Embellishments – stones , sequences and beads  Fabric Manipulations – Tucks, Pleats,Gathers,Quilting , Cording  Trims and Fasteners - Laces, Pompoms ,Flanges , Zippers , Buttons, Tassels

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SURFACE TECHNIQUES IN DIFFERENT PRODUCTS

Embroidery Embroidery is one of the frequently used Surface technique in adding value to the product. A commonly used stitches in embroidery are satin , zig zag , blanket stitches , boucle , running stitches, chain stitches , French knots and filling stitches. Most of them are machine embroidered and a few are hand embroidered. Embroidery is done along with printing and as such. Couching is another embroidery technique in which yarn or any other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and held in place with the help of stitches.

Appliqué Appliqué is a piece of fabric or any other material applied on to another surface or fabric. The pieces to be appliquéd are laser cut and stitched using machine embroidery . The design is appliquéd and embroidery stitches are done on top of it. The commonly used stitches for appliquéing are zigzag , blanket, satin and darning stitches.

Embellishments Embellishments are decorative details or features added to a surface to make it more attractive and appealing. The embellishments used commonly in synthesis are sequences , stones , beads , laces and pom-poms . Flanges and binding also forms a part of the embellishments used in Synthesis.

Fabric Manipulation Fabric manipulation is the process of manipulating or reshaping the structure of the fabric to give it a different texture. The fabric manipulation techniques used in synthesis are pleats , tucks , gathers , quilting , Ruffles and cording . The fabrics are tucked or pleated and embroidery is done on top of it . Raw edges also give a different look.

Weaving Explorations In weaving , the explorations are done with the use of different yarn counts like weaving thick and thin yarns together , metallic yarns, lurex, and use of slub yarns are seen. Introduction of fancy yarns also gives a special looks to the fabrics.

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MARKETS Synthesis caters to a no. of markets around the world - US , UK , Sweden , Netherlands , Japan, France , Denmark and Australia , US & UK being the main markets

CLIENTELE USA

SWEDEN

UK

NETHERLANDS

JAPAN

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MARKET RESEARCH AND TREND STUDY

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A market research and trend study was conducted for the US market which includes Study of different brands, forecast , Apparel trends.

From an analysis of these, a few trends were taken forward and four stories were created.

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US MARKET • •

One of the biggest market for textiles. U S countries have a lot of festivals and occasions to celebrate.

US has many occasions to sell products like – Summer, Fall, Christmas, New Year Eve, Valentine’s day, St. Patrick’s Day, Easter, Americana, Thanksgiving, Halloween, Harvest – to name a few. These occasions or a festival becomes an opportunity to sell products.

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•Techniques Used – Embroidery- Machine, Appliqué, Digital Screen Printing •Fabrics – Cotton , Linen, Polyester, Wool, Nylon •Weaves- Jacquard , Dobby •Common Sizes – 20”X20” 18”X 18” •Colors – Tonals, Reds, Oranges, Beige • Motifs – Geometric, Tropicals, Paisleys •Trims – Buttons, Piping

Printing,

21 •Techniques Used – Appliqué, Digital Rotary Printing , Screen Printing •Fabrics – Cotton , Linen, Polyester, Wool, Nylon •Weaves- Dobby •Common Sizes – Table Cloth – 60” X 120” Table Runner – 13”X 36” Dish Cloth - 12”X 12” 16”X 28” Curtains - 52”X 63” 52”X 84” 52” X 95” 38” X 84” •Colors – Tonals, Reds, Oranges, Beige • Motifs – Geometric, Stripes, Florals, wavy stripes

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•Techniques Used – EmbroideryMachine and Hand, Block Printing, Screen printing •Fabrics – Cotton and Linen •Weaves- Herringbone (twill), Knit Weaves, Basket Weave, Dobby Weaves •Common Sizes – 20”X20” 16”X16” 18”X12” 23”X23” •Colors – Tones, Oranges , Blues and Greens •Motifs – Geometric, Flora and Fauna, Birds Checkered patterns •Use of chenille Yarns in Embroidery.

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OUTDOOR CUSHIONS AND DISH TOWELS •Techniques Used: Outdoor Cushions – Screen printing Dish towels - Screen Printing •Fabrics Outdoor Cushions – Water Resistant, Flame Resistant Spun Polyester Dish Towels - Cotton, Linen •Weaves Dish Towels – Dobby Weaves, Waffle, Terry •Common Sizes – 20”X20” 16”X16” 23”X23” •Colors Outdoor Cushions – Solids- Pastels, Greens, Oranges Dishtowels - Solids – Reds, Greens , Blues and Yellows •Motifs Outdoor Cushions – Geometric, Stripes Flora and Fauna Dish towels - Birds like Roosters, pigs, Checkered patterns, Fruits, Stripes, Florals

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CURTAINS •Techniques Used –Surface Manipulations like Pleats, Screen Prints •Fabrics – Cotton and Linen •Weaves- Herringbone (twill) ,Dobby Weaves •Common Sizes – 52” X 84” 52”X 96” 52” X 108” 48” X 84” 48” X 63” 48” X 96” 48” X 108” •Colors – Browns, Grays, Earthy Colors •Motifs – Geometric, Ikat patterns, wavy •Use of slub yarns in woven curtains

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•Techniques Used – Overall prints •Fabrics – Flame and water resistant spun Polyester, Polyester- Acrylic Blend, Cotton Linen Blend •Weaves- Dobby Weaves - Stripes •Common Sizes – 18” X 18”, 12”X 16” •Colors – Solids – Greens, Blues, Reds •Motifs – Tonal Stripes, solids , Paisleys •Trims - Piping for Cushions

OUTDOOR / INDOOR CUSHIONS

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DECORATIVE PILLOWS

•Techniques Used – Embroidery- Machine and Hand, Block Printing, Screen printing, Batik Printing, Hand Knotting, French knots, Crewel Embroidery, Appliqué, Tapestry •Fabrics – Cotton ,Linen, Wool, Acrylic, Cotton- Linen Blend , Velvet •Weaves- Textured - Herringbone, Basket Weave •Common Sizes – 16” X26” 24”X24” 20”X 20” 18” X 18” 26” X 26” •Colors – Blues , Pastels, Tone on Tone , Oranges , Yellows •Motifs – Geometric, Paisleys, Natural, Lettering, Ikat look, tropicals, Solids, Watercolor effects •Trims – Pom poms, piping

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•Techniques Used – Embroidery- Machine and Hand, Block Printing, Screen printing, Hand Knotting, Patchwork , Kantha, Digital Printing •Fabrics – Cotton ,Linen, Wool, Acrylic, Polyester, Nylon •Weaves- Textured - Herringbone Common Size 12” X 30” 26” X 26” 14”X 20” 18”X 18” 16”X 18” •Colors – Blues , Pastels, Tone on Tone , Oranges , Yellows •Motifs – Geometric, Florals, Animals, Ikat look,, Solids, Kilim motifs, Butas •Trims - Fringes, Tassels, Pom poms, •size – 16” X24” 14”X20” 20”X 20”

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•Techniques Used – Embroidery- Machine and Hand, Block Printing, Screen printing, Appliqué , Gathers and pleats •Fabrics – Cotton ,Linen, Voile, Sheers •Common Sizes – 50”W, 42” W •Colors – Blues , Pastels, Tone on Tones •Motifs – Geometric, Tropicals, Stripes •Trims – Fringes, Tassels, Pom poms •Different Layouts for Curtains – Overalls, one – sided etc

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•Techniques Used – Embroidery- Machine and Hand, Screen printing, •Fabrics – Cotton ,Linen, •Weaves- Jacquard, twill weave •Colors – Blues , Pastels, Tone on Tone, •Motifs – Geometric, Florals, Animals, Solids,

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•Techniques Used – Embroidery, Screen printing, Jacquard Weaving •Fabrics – Cotton ,Linen •Common Sizes – Dish Towels – 30” X 20”, 14” X 14” Apron- 27” Wide 36” Long •Colors – Blues , Pastels, Tone on Tone , Oranges , Greens •Motifs – Stripes, concentric shapes, animals, tropicals, solids, tone on tones

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•Techniques Used – Embroidery- Machine and Hand, Screen printing, Tapestry technique •Fabrics – Cotton ,Linen, Cotton – polyester Blend •Weaves- Dobby, Jacquard for Table cloths •Common Sizes – 16.5”W X 15.5”D X 3.5”H 19” X 19” •Colors – Blues , Pastels, Tone on Tone , Oranges , Yellows, Greys •Motifs – Geometric, Tropicals, Fruits , Solids, oggees

CHAIR PADS, PLACEMATS, TABLE CLOTH

33 •Techniques Used – Embroidery- Machine and Hand, Screen printing, Digital Printing, Surface Manipulations, Quilting •Fabrics – Cotton ,Linen, Velvet •Weaves- Textured – Waffle Knitted •Common Sizes – 18”X 18” 20”X 20” 16”X 16” •Colors – Bright Colors, Blues, Beige •Motifs – Geometric, Natural, Floral •Trims - Fringes, Pom poms

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•Techniques Used –Screen printing, Layering, Gathers •Fabrics – Cotton ,Linen, Polyester- Cotton Blend, Polyester- Linen Blend , Sheer, Voiles •Common Sizes – 42”X 18” Drop, 50” , 52” •Colors – Blues ,Browns , Pastels •Motifs – Geometric, Florals, Overall prints

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•Techniques Used – Embroidery- Machine and Hand, Screen printing, Digital Printing, Quilting •Fabrics – Cotton ,Linen, Velvet •Weaves- Dobby Weaves •Common Sizes – 18”X 18” 20”X 20” 16”X 16” 14”X 20” •Colors – Bright Colors, Blues, Reds, Greys •Motifs – Geometric,Floral, Stripes, Polka Dots, Checks.

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ANALYSIS OF MARKET STUDY Techniques • Embroidery is one of the commonly used techniques and mostly sold.

• Surface Manipulations like tucks, gathers , quilting are present more than ruffles, pleats etc.

• Hand knotting has started to be used and techniques like patchwork has been converted to prints.

• Screen printing and Rotary Printing are most commonly used more than digital printing • Engineered Prints Fabrics • 90% fabric s used is Cotton , Linen and polyester blends .

• Wool and acrylic are also used.

• Use of Sheer fabric and Voile for curtains is less.

Motifs and Patterns • Tropicals which include fruits, Vegetables , birds etc is widely used.

• Stripes , Tonals , Geometric Shapes , Use of Kilim Motifs • Presence of Florals ( overall as well as single motifs) Colors • Use of more of Blues and Beiges • Along with it , Oranges and Yellows are also used.

Trims • Piping , Pom Poms are used more than Tassels and Fringes.

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HEIMTEXTIL TRENDS 2015

MEMORY •Reflection and Revaluation •Use of familiar patterns that has the capacity for a a recall of the past.

•Using Handicrafts with technology •Fabrics- Wool, Linen, Denim

DISCOVERY •Taking account of our planets valuable resources •Predicting the future •Closest look , observing the textures •Designers overlook the shoulders of astrophysicist and investigate the properties of lunar rock and meteorites- dark strength and fascinating.

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MIXOLOGY •Cultural fusion giving rise to a modern ethnic heritage.

• Own experimentation- interaction of different identities.

•Prints and colors collide almost chaotically with each other.

• People -recycling – new application to the waste materials considering the material properties.

SENSORY •New products for home with tactile and sensory impulses, increases the feeling of well being •Use of Super sensory fabrics • Light, transparent fabrics with polished surfaces or varnish like lustre & uniformity are used together with paper surfaces and oily finishes.

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APPAREL TRENDS SS15

Browns

Geometric

Rough textured

Ombre effects

Blues and Patchy looks

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APPAREL TRENDS SS15

Some apparel trends applied to home furnishing collection

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PANTONE COLOR TRENDS SS15

This season, cooler and softer color choices with subtle warm tones follow a minimalistic en plein air theme, taking a cue from nature

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WGSN SS16

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Curators take an inventive approach to archiving as museums digitally repackage artefacts, allowing them to be accessible to all.

Craft is reinvented through physical and virtual wrapping and layering

Materials are brought together in new meaningful constructs, Layering their original source and purpose with new narratives

Historical artifacts are reinterpreted in innovative mediums.

A return to ornamentation sees an uplifting mix of periods, cultures and materials selected to stimulate the senses.

A mastery of material sees wood, bamboo, metal and starched textiles take on structured and organic forms.

•Curate personal collections according to taste and interest through physical or virtual tagging and archiving •Creatively combine craft, decoration and texture from different erasto create a new design language •Juxtapose traditional pattern references with modern shapes and unusual new materials •Reinvent traditional objects through wrapping and layering to reveal and conceal form •Bring together light, scent and decoration to stimulate the senses and create opulent experiences

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Ancient and modern materials and processes collide in objects with an alchemic and earthy yet refined feel

Natural pigments bleed into irregular interlinking surfaces and forms

Manmade and natural materials alter as they blend and equalize with the earth over time

Adaptive and inventive design thinking emerges to keep pace with our ever-changing habitat and the design challenges this brings. Environmental responsibility and rethinking process

•Forge together raw earthy materials such as lava, amber resin and obsidian with polished machine finishes or digitally formed steel for exciting contrasts •Incorporate hand-made or mass-produced artifacts and objects for new material conglomerates •Consider the use of algae and fruit for product designs that can be re-absorbed into the earth •Use where possible locally sourced materials for designs that complement your surroundings •Create rough-hewn or composted textures in patched and blended layers

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Sealed within a microcosm, life forms are captured and suspended to create eerie new worlds.

The weightlessness of space and water inform a fluidity in design

Designers are inspired phosphorescence of sea life

by

the

natural

Objects are imbued with odd lifelike and cartoonish characteristics

When engineered into skeletal structures, grown elements mimic nature Delicate skins evolve over time and objects are transformed underwater

•Watery, submerged and undulant shapes showcase movement in pattern, colour and texture •Grown and engineered materials and surfaces create organic 3D textures •Product become animated in stylised, often eerie comical forms •Be inspired by the weightlessness of objects in water and space for a new gravity-defying design direction •Bring light effects and bioluminescent technology into design development

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ANALYSIS Bold as well as detailed designs, pixilated looks, emphasizing on a single color.

Tropicals and floral Color Bleeded Looks Color Blocking, Checks & stripes Patchwork and Ombre effects Tinted Shades Geometric and overall Patterning Embroidered and quilted Trends that has been taken forward -

COLOR BLOCKS

BOLD FLORALS

BLUES

TRADITIONAL

NATURAL

TINTS & SHADES ILLUSIONISTIC

TEXTURED

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STORIES FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2016

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THE RETRIEVAL

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ELEGANT

CRAFTY

TRADITIONAL

CONTEMPORARY

COLORS

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Retrieval means getting back something from somewhere . Retrieval can be rediscovering your traditions and cultures that had been not valued for a long time.

Retrieval can also be something old in new form. This freshens you up and brings back the sweet memories. Retrieval helps to show ones possessions to the world.

It is remembrance of old memories that faded away from our life to the past . The ups and downs in your life , the good times and the bad times that finally becomes your moments to cherish.

The Retrieval brings in the reality of ones life Soothing, elegance, an element of beauty which evokes the happiness inside you.

Refreshing Relaxing Elegant Soothing This story deals with taking a look back to ancient days of textiles and bringing in an element of its techniques . The retrieval gives you a glimpse of the past through the use of simple techniques and fabrics .

Retrieval can also be bringing in a classic fabric like denim into the scene.

Use of natural fibers and fabrics like linens, cotton , denims, jute etc that can bring out the essence of nature.

The techniques are – Patchwork, Running stitches, AppliquÊ This can be carried out using different methods – e.g.. Patchwork design can be printed with running stitches above the print to give the same effect.

For e.g.- here Origami and Shibori are two techniques of Japanese origin. These are Traditional techniques from Japan.

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GEOMETRIC

SPREADING

SHADES

IRREGULAR

TEXTURED

STRUCTURED

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These techniques can be applied to fabrics by different methods- printing, embroidery , digital printing instead of using the traditional techniques.

Marimekko Prints – The prints with same silhouettes having different patterns or textures filled in it.

Similar prints can be made.

The blue color of shibori can be substituted by other colors, the print can in a different way than the usual way. E.g. arranging in an irregular orientation.

E.g. Of marimekko prints

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•Use of yarns which can give the Same effect as jute or linen.

• Making use of the texture of these fabrics •Printing the texture of denim fabric •Bringing in the look and feel of the fabrics •Using a mix of fabrics- like printed cotton and denim •Emphasizing only a part of the texture from the whole

Recreating shibori with prints and weaving with natural fibers.

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INGENUITY

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TRIBAL

CONTRASTING

ILLUSTIONISTIC

LINES

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With the contrasting colors and geometric patterns , the story deals with a deceptive appearance to the eye which takes you to a world of imagination.

The story starts with extracting the patterns from tribal textiles and continues with introducing colors that are contrasting and eye catching. A more artistic way of approaching design.

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ILLUSIONISTIC

CONTRASTING CONCENTRIC

DECEPTIVE

COLORFUL

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•The patterns are bold and geometric. This can be Achieved by a combination of prints and surface Manipulations.

•The illusionistic effect can also be achieved through Ikats , space dyeing etc.

•The beauty of these prints or weaves are enhanced by The addition of embellishments to the surface.

•The patterns are inspired from Northeastern Indian Textiles and African textiles.

•This can also be worked out by using a contrast to a Lighter background or vice versa.

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Use of psychedelic colors give the effect of illusion. The pixilated look is another effect which fits into “the Ingenuity�.

Making a part of the print embossed can also bring in the illusion effect.

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BLOSSOM

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BOLD

INTRICATE DIFFERENT

SPREADING

REFRESHING

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Blossoms give a range of floral prints which makes you energetic and expressive with the summer blooms. These can be engineered prints with bold petal designs having realistic details of a flower. Print with embroidery, giving the details of the flower. Blossom is also represented with the help of silhouettes of flowers.

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SILHOUETTES AMPLIFIED

REALISTIC

EMPHASISED

CHARACTERISTIC

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The fabric can be plain with print in specific areas. Silhouettes can be printed with different colors on the same design Highlighting a few petals with appliquĂŠ and embroidery.

A few running stitches can also bring the embossed effect.

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TINTED

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WOODEN

CALM

BROWNS

COLORS OF NATURE

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Tinted tells the story of starting of summer and the elegance, along with a few highlights of blue, purple and orange.

Use of monochromes and natural textures as nature is intertwined with past, present and future equally.

Starting of summer brings back everything into life – the plants, seeds, hibernating animals , small insects , butterflies etc.

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3 DIMENSIONAL

ROUGH

TEXTURED EARTHY BROWNS SOFT

71

Humankind is regarded as the representation in miniature of the universe.

Similarly the whole nature consists of many microcosms put together , each one of which reflects the world in its own way.

World or the Universe behaves similarly with all forms of life from the smallest cells to the largest living being on Earth.

Reaching the lower strata of the nature, the insects represents a class which encapsules all the processes and behavior of the entire earth.

The patterns, textures etc of insects are also interesting.

Monochromes

Transparent Lines Natural

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STRIPES AND COLOR BLOCKS

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Orientation of stripes can be Diagonal, curvy etc..

Each stripe or color block is applied with different texture.

Print with stripes

75

FORMS

LINES COLOR BLOCKING

GRADATION

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COLLECTION 1 Sponsor’s Brief To design and develop a home furnishing collection of Cushions and Curtains with the theme “RETRIEVAL” for the U S Market for the season Spring/ Summer 2016

78

Keywords taken forward from the story Retrieval

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LOVE FOR COLORS LOVE FOR ART

MOOD BOARD

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INSPIRATION BOARD

INSPIRATION BOARD

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RESTATEMENT OF BRIEF

To design and develop a collection of Cushions and Curtains for the US market for the season Spring-Summer 2016.

The collection will be based on the theme “Retrieval “ which tells the story of bringing back the traditions and contemporizing them.

Shibori and Origami are two of the well known Japanese techniques that will be taken forward in this collection.

These techniques will be explored in prints and wovens which give an essence of the techniques.

Instead of using the techniques as such , it will be stylized using printing and embroidery will be used to give the texture to the collection. .

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SHIBORI - FOLDING AND CLAMPING - ITAJIME In Japan, the earliest known example of cloth dyed with a shibori technique dates from the 8th century; it is among the goods donated by the Emperor ShĹ?mu to the TĹ?dai-ji inNara.

Until the 20th century, not many fabrics and dyes were in widespread use in Japan. The main fabrics were silk and hemp, and later cotton. The main dye was indigo and, to a lesser extent, madder and purple root.

Shibori and other textile arts, such as tsutsugaki, were applied to all of these fabrics and dyes.

There are an infinite number of ways one can bind, stitch, fold, twist, or compress cloth for shibori, and each way results in very different patterns. Each method is used to achieve a certain result, but each method is also used to work in harmony with the type of cloth used. Therefore, the technique used in shibori depends not only on the desired pattern, but the characteristics of the cloth being dyed. Also, different techniques can be used in conjunction with one another to achieve even more elaborate results Traditionally, Shibori cloth dyeing was an intricate artwork which involved several different methods of binding and/or stitching cloth to create detailed patterns of infinite variation which ranged from almost mathematical precision to watercolorlooking webbed designs.

Also known as clamp-resist dyeing technique, this requires that you accordion fold your fabric and then clamp it between two boards before wrapping with string or bands.

Shibori is traditionally completed using indigo dye, but other traditional colors include deep purples and reds.

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PAPER FOLDING the word "origami" is used as an inclusive term for all folding practices, regardless of their culture of origin. The goal is to transform a flat sheet of paper into a finished sculpture through folding and sculpting techniques. Modern origami practitioners generally discourage the use of cuts, glue, or markings on the paper. Origami folders often use the Japanese word kirigami to refer to designs which use cuts, although cutting is more characteristic of Chinese paper crafts The small number of basic origami folds can be combined in a variety of ways to make intricate designs. The best-known origami model is the Japanese paper crane. In general, these designs begin with a square sheet of paper whose sides may be of different colors, prints, or patterns. Traditional Japanese origami, which has been practiced since the Edo period (1603– 1867), has often been less strict about these conventions, sometimes cutting the paper or using nonsquare shapes to start with.

The principles of origami are also used in stents,packaging and other engineering applications

CONCEPTUALISATION

88

INITIAL CONCEPTS

89

INITIAL CONCEPTS

90

INITIAL CONCEPTS

91

92

93

94

INITIAL CONCEPTS

95

INITIAL CONCEPTS

96

INITIAL CONCEPTS

97

Tissue paper was folded in different shapes and dipped in color

Triangle patterning

Different patterns using poster color and water

Paper folded in rectangle and dipped in color

98 Water color and pencils on paper

Blocked effect

Spreading effect using water color on paper

Flower shaped motif with spreading effect

99

exploration with different papers

Water color tracing paper

on

Explorations using colored sheets cutting and pasting them.

100

Color blocked look variations

Interwoven look

Striations with ribbed look of a single color

Use of thick and thin lines

101 Blocked look using embroidery

Mixing of two colors with spreading effect

2 Colored effect with clamped look.

Use of thick and thin striations

102

Geometric shapes using paper folding (origami ) from inspiration board

Stippled effect

103

Clamping using different types of clips

Dip dyed after folding in rectangle

Clamping using cloth clips

Tie – dye exploration using different paper folding techniques

104 Dyed fabrics set in different repeats

105

CONCEPTUALISATION

FINAL CONCEPTS

Selected Concepts

BB C001

Combining tie dye stitch line with triangles

Shades of same color Mixed up with white patterning

Color blocking combined with embroidery lines

BB C002

BB C003

106

The gradation in colors is given In a stylised linear look with Solid colored bold lines

BB C004

The dip dyed effect along With hexagons

BB C005

Color blocking using Criss-cross lines

BB C006

107

Combined the broken lines with the origami shape.

BB C007

Irregularity look with stitch line effect

BB C008

Patchwork look with color blocks

BB C009

108

Line effect , up and downs in tonal colors

BB C010

Interlaced with colored lines

BB C 011

The zig zag effect with lines in triangle shape

BB C 012

109

The arrow in a geometric shape with colored chips

BB C 013

Scribbled kind of uneven pattern in lines

BB C 014

Colors spreading with solid lines

BB T 001

110

Triangle shapes different colors

put

together

with

BB C 016

The dip dyed effect with shades of blue

BB C 017

Dobby woven with thick and thin lines of blue, orange , pink and yellow

BB C 018

BB C 019

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LAYOUT EXPLORATIONS

Shibori pattern along with origami triangles with embroidery concentrated to one side.

Overall print with triangles in different size

BB C 001

Arranged in such a way that there is an asymmetry

112

BB C 001

Motif concentrated in the middle of the cushion

Motif in the center

113

BB C 004

The lines are for embroidery The print is kept same Playing around with lines

114

BB C 006

115

BB C 002

116

BB C 018

117

BB C 019

118

BB C 005

119

BB C 003

120

BB C 007

121

BB C 010

122

BB C 013

123

BB C 008

124

BB C 009

125

BB C 008

126

BB C 012

127

BB C 014

128 THROW

BB T 001

129

BB C 016, 17 CURTAINS

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CURTAINS BB CU 008

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 1 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D , Running Stitch - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne

Size of the cushion - 14”X 14” Product Consumption Front - 15”X 15” Back - 15”X 15” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 15/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.13+ 0.13 = 0.26m Fabric Cost - 39 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 100 Embroidery Cost - 38 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 263 Rs

132

SPECIFICATION SHEET 2 Yarn Count

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub Ends Per Inch - 60 Picks Per Inch - 36 Weave Used - Plain Fabric manipulation - Cording Print - Screen Back Fabric Yarn Count - Warp - 30s Ne Weft - 30s Ne Ends Per Inch - 68 Picks per Inch - 64

Size of the cushion - 14”X 14” Product Consumption Front - 16”X 16” Back - 15”X 15” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for front side – 16/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+ 0.13 = 0.27m Fabric Cost - 40.5 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 100 Stitching - 28 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 241.5 Rs

133

SPECIFICATION SHEET 3 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D , zigzag Stitch - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne

Size of the cushion - 14”X 14”

Product Consumption Front - 15”X 15” Back - 15”X 15” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 15/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.13+ 0.13 = 0.26m Fabric Cost - 39 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 100 Embroidery Cost - 40 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 260 Rs

135

SPECIFICATION SHEET 4 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D , Running Stitch - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne

Size of the cushion - 14”X 14” Product Consumption Front - 15”X 15” Back - 15”X 15” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 15/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.13+ 0.13 = 0.26m Fabric Cost - 39 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 100 Embroidery Cost - 40 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 265 Rs

136

SPECIFICATION SHEET 5

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon, 100 D , Satin Stitch - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne Size of the cushion - 16”X 16” Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 42 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 100 Embroidery Cost - 45 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 47 Total Cost - 275 Rs

137

SPECIFICATION SHEET 6 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D, Satin Stitch - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne Size of the cushion - 16”X 16” Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 42 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 120 Embroidery Cost - 45 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 47 Total Cost - 295 Rs

138

SPECIFICATION SHEET 7 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D, Running Stitch - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne

Size of the cushion - 16”X 16” Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 42 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Embroidery Cost - 40 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 47 Total Cost - 250 Rs

139

SPECIFICATION SHEET 8 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne

Size of the cushion - 16”X 16” Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 42 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 100 Embroidery Cost - 40 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 47 Total Cost - 270 Rs

140

SPECIFICATION SHEET 9 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D, Satin Stitch - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne

Size of the cushion - 16”X 16” Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 42 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 100 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 47 Total Cost - 250 Rs

141

SPECIFICATION SHEET 10 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D , Boucle embroidery - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne Size of the cushion - 16”X 16”

Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 42 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Embroidery Cost - 45 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 47 Total Cost - 255 Rs

142

SPECIFICATION SHEET 11 Yarn Count

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub Ends Per Inch - 60 Picks Per Inch - 36 Weave Used - Plain Fabric manipulation - Pleats Print - Screen Back Fabric Yarn Count - Warp - 30s Ne Weft - 30s Ne Ends Per Inch - 68 Picks per Inch - 64 Size of the cushion - 16”X 16” Product Consumption Front - 18”X 18” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for front side – 18/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Similarly for the back side Total Consumption – 0.15+0.14 = 0.29m Fabric Cost - 43.5 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Stitching - 25 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 50 Total Cost - 226.5 Rs

143

SPECIFICATION SHEET 12 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton - 40 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne Size of the cushion - 16”X 16”

Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 42 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Dyeing Cost - 50 Embroidery Cost - 50 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 228 Rs

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 13

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Weft - 2/10s Ne - 48 - 36

Size of the cushion - 16”X 16”

Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 28 (1m fabric – 100 Rs) Weaving Cost - 100 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 50 Total Cost - 218 Rs

145

SPECIFICATION SHEET 14

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton - 40 - 36

Size of the cushion - 16”X 16”

Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 28 (1m fabric – 100 Rs) Weaving Cost - 100 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 48 Total Cost - 216 Rs

146

SPECIFICATION SHEET 15 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D ,Chain Stitch - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne

Size of the cushion - 20”X 12” Product Consumption Front - 21”X 13” Back - 21”X 13” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 21/39.37/2( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.27+ 0.27 = 0.54m Fabric Cost - 81(1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Embroidery Cost - 35 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 282 Rs

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 16

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D , Running Stitch - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne

Size of the cushion - 20”X 12” Product Consumption Front - 21”X 13” Back - 21”X 13” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 21/39.37/2( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.27+ 0.27 = 0.54m Fabric Cost - 81(1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Embroidery Cost - 40 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 287 Rs

148

SPECIFICATION SHEET 17 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Embroidery Print Back Fabric Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks per Inch

- Warp - 2/30s Ne Slub Weft - 2/20s Ne Slub - 60 - 36 - Plain - Rayon , 100 D ,Chain Stitch - Screen - Warp Weft - 68 - 64

- 30s Ne - 30s Ne

Size of the cushion - 20”X 12” Product Consumption Front - 21”X 13” Back - 21”X 13” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 21/39.37/2( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.27+ 0.27 = 0.54m Fabric Cost - 81(1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Embroidery Cost - 35 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 282 Rs

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 18 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Print Size of the curtain

- Warp - 2/20s Ne Cotton Weft - 10s Ne Cotton - 40 - 36 - Plain - Screen - 55”x 72”

Product Consumption Front - 56” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 56/39.37/1( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 1.42m Fabric Cost - 142(1m fabric – 100 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Dyeing Cost - 50 Stitching - 10 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 48 Eyelet Cost - 4 each = 32 Total Cost - 368.50 Rs

150

SPECIFICATION SHEET 19 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Print Size of the curtain

- Warp - 2/20s Ne Cotton Weft - 10s Ne Cotton - 40 - 36 - Plain - Screen - 55”x 72”

Product Consumption Front - 56” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 56/39.37/1( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 1.42m Fabric Cost - 142(1m fabric – 100 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Stitching - 10 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 48 Eyelet Cost - 4 each = 32 Total Cost - 318.50 Rs

151

SPECIFICATION SHEET 20 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Print Embroidery Embellishment

- Warp - 20s Ne Cotton canvas Weft - 20s Ne Cotton canvas - 108 - 56 - Plain - Screen - Polyester - pom poms Size of the Throw - 40”x 36”

Product Consumption Front - 41” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 41/39.37/1( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 1.04m Fabric Cost - 83.2(1m fabric – 80 Rs) Printing Cost - 75 Stitching - 8 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 30 Pom pom Cost - 12 Total Cost - 214.7 Rs

152

PHOTO GALLERY

The Blues with a touch of orange, yellow and pink

153

Wovens with the color blocks on blue

Whites and

blues

154

Geometric blues

Blue is

the new black

155

156

COLLECTION 2 Sponsor’s Brief To design and develop a home furnishing collection of Table and Kitchen Linen Products with the theme “TINTED” for the U S Market for the season Spring/ Summer 2016

157

Keywords taken forward from the story Tinted

158

Bringing home the nature and its elements

159

MOOD BOARD

160

INSPIRATION BOARD

161

162

163

RESTATEMENT OF BRIEF

To design and develop a collection of Table and Kitchen Linen Collection for the US market for the season Spring-Summer 2016.

The collection will be based on the theme “ TINTED� which tells the story of taking in elements from nature , the starting of spring with browns and traces of orange, purple and blue.

These will be designed using prints which include rotary and engineered screen printing taking the implied textures of wood, leaves, fruits etc.

164

CONCEPTUALISATION INITIAL CONCEPTS

165

166

167

168

169

170

171

172

173

174

175

176

Lemon sliced

Tomato sliced and dipped In color

Dried cabbage dipped in two colors

Coconut fibre impressions

Impressions of natural materials

177

Orange slices

Onion imprints using colors

Coconut shell dipped in color And rolled on a paper

Banana impression

Rope - different types Tied differently

178

179

Wood texture using lines and dots

180

Lines

Wood bark texture , the grained effect along with thick and thin lines

181

Leaf veins and dried up leaves

Filling in alternating places

Emphasis on lines texture Thin lines and thick lines

182

Coconut fibre textures with rough and soft sides Flowy lines

183

Wavy lines Thick and thin lines Emphasis on Lines in the bark

184

185

Color Combination

186

FINAL CONCEPTS

187

FINAL CONCEPTS - LAYOUTS KITCHEN TOWEL-1

KITCHEN TOWEL-2

188

MITTEN

189

Napkin

189 Pot Holder

190 Table Cloth 1

Placemat

191

192 Cushion 1

193 Cushion 2

194 Kitchen towel 3

195 Table Runner

197

Table cloth 2

198

SPECIFICATION SHEET 1

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Print

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton - 40 - 36 - Plain - Screen

Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 28 (1m fabric – 100 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 192 Rs

Size of the cushion - 16”X 16”

199

SPECIFICATION SHEET 2

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Print

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton - 40 - 36 - Plain - Screen

Product Consumption Front - 17”X 17” Back - 17”X 17” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 17/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.14+0.14 = 0.28m Fabric Cost - 42 (1m fabric – 100 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Stitching - 13 Over locking - 0.50 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Over locking thread cost – 3 Zipping Cost - 3 Zipper Cost - 15 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 192 Rs

Size of the cushion - 16”X 16”

200

SPECIFICATION SHEET 3

Yarn Count

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton Ends Per Inch - 42 Picks Per Inch - 36 Weave Used - Satin Width of each stripe - 0.5”

Product Consumption Front - 19”X 29” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 19/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.16m Fabric Cost - 24 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Weaving Cost - 25 Stitching - 10 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 35 Total Cost - 75.50 Rs

Size of the kitchen towel

- 18”X 28”

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 4

Yarn Count

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton Ends Per Inch - 40 Picks Per Inch - 36 Weave Used - Honeycomb(Waffle) Width of each stripe - 1cm, 1.5cm

Product Consumption Front - 19”X 29” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 19/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.16m Fabric Cost - 24 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Weaving Cost - 25 Stitching - 10 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 35 Total Cost - 75.50 Rs

Size of the kitchen towel

- 18”X 28”

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 5

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Print

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton - 40 - 36 - Plain - Screen

Product Consumption Front - 19”X 29” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 19/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.16m Fabric Cost - 24 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Printing Cost - 60 Stitching - 10 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 35 Total Cost - 110.50 Rs

Size of the kitchen towel

- 18”X 28”

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 6

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Print

- Warp - 20s Ne cotton Weft - 20s Ne cotton - 60 - 56 - Plain - Screen

Product Consumption Front - 20”X 20” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 20/39.37/1( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.50m Fabric Cost - 15 (1m fabric – 30 Rs) Printing Cost - 20 Stitching -3 Cutting Cost - .50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 0.50 Production Cost - 15 Total Cost - 58 Rs

Size of the napkin

- 19”X 19”

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 7 Yarn Count

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton Ends Per Inch - 40 Picks Per Inch - 36 Weave Used - Plain Print - Screen Product Consumption Front - 14”X 19” Back - 14”X 19” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 19/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.16+0.16 = 0.32m Fabric Cost - 9.6 (1m fabric – 30 Rs) Printing Cost - 20 Stitching -5 Cutting Cost - 0.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Fusing Cost - 5 Ironing Cost - 0.50 Production Cost - 15 Total Cost - 59.6 Rs

Size of the Placemat - 13”X 18”

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 8

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Print

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton - 40 - 36 - Plain - Screen

Product Consumption Front - 9”X 9” Back - 9”X 9” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 9/39.37/6 ( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.04+0.04 = 0.08m Fabric Cost - 2.4 (1m fabric – 30 Rs) Printing Cost - 20 Stitching - 8 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 15 Total Cost - 52.90 Rs

Size of the Pot holder- 8”X 8”

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 9

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton - 40 - 36 - Herringbone weave

Product Consumption Front - 9”X 9” Back - 9”X 9” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 9/39.37/6 ( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.04+0.04 = 0.08m Fabric Cost - 8 (1m fabric – 100 Rs) Weaving Cost Stitching - 13 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 152 Rs

Size of the Pot holder- 8”X 8”

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 10

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Print Repeat unit

- Warp - 20s Ne cotton Weft - 20s Ne cotton - 108 - 56 - Plain - Screen - 13”X 13”

Product Consumption Front - 53”X 71” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 53/39.37/1( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 1.34m Fabric Cost - 134 (1m fabric – 100 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Stitching - 10 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 30 Total Cost - 260.5 Rs

Size of the table cloth - 52”X 70”

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 11

Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used Print Repeat Unit

- Warp - 20s Ne cotton Weft - 20s Ne cotton - 108 - 56 - Plain - Screen - 13”X 13”

Product Consumption Front - 53”X 71” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 53/39.37/1( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 1.34m Fabric Cost - 134 (1m fabric – 100 Rs) Printing Cost - 80 Stitching - 10 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 30 Total Cost - 260.5 Rs

Repeat unit Size of the table cloth - 52”X 70”

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SPECIFICATION SHEET 12 Yarn Count Ends Per Inch Picks Per Inch Weave Used

- Warp - 2/20s Ne cotton Weft - 10s Ne cotton - 40 - 36 - Twill

Product Consumption Front - 14”X 37” Back - 14”X 37” Finished Width of the Fabric - 58” Fabric required in meters for each side – 14/39.37/3( No. of pieces cut from tot. fabric) Total Consumption – 0.11+0.11 = 0.22 m Fabric Cost - 33 (1m fabric – 150 Rs) Weaving Cost - 80 Stitching - 10 Cutting Cost - 1.50 Stitching thread cost - 4 Fusing Cost - 8 Ironing Cost - 1 Production Cost - 45 Total Cost - 182.50 Rs

Size of the Runner - 13”X 36”

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PHOTO GALLERY

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Bringing in nature to your home

CONCLUSION

The 18 weeks of Graduation Project has helped in understanding the the industry better, the export houses.

Being a designer , it was full of trail and errors, understanding the buyers, the export market and a hands on experience. This has helped me out working more efficiently and systematically.

It was wonderful experience which has definitely helped me in improving and made me a better person

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BIBLIOGRAPHY Magazines Referred – - The World of Interiors - LDB - Color Trends 2015 Websites Referred – -WGSN - www.pantone.com - Heimtextil - www.potterybarn.com - www.crateandbarrel.com - www.kohls.com - www.williams-sonoma.com - www.ballarddesigns.com - www.style.com - www.anthropologie.com - www.bedbathandbeyond.com - www.patternbank.com - shibori.org