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15
10 ESCUELA POPULAR LA PROSPE
A
de
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METRO
ram ento C. Segovia
Pl. Puerta de Moros an C. S cisco n Fra l nge C. Á
s ne nto Po S Pl. los Cas ta. ilda Francisco Paseo de Morano
ESTADIO VICENTE CALDERÓN
eo
LA ESKALERA DE CARACOLA
Plaza de La Paja lla
IMPERIAL
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Pas
9
S. Rufo
Ca
CENTRO SOCIAL SECO
RO
ND
DEL
8
alo
LA
LA TABACALERA
S. G
VIRGEN DEL
7
CA
l
DE
EPA PATIO MARAVILLAS
les
Daimie
SEGOVIA
BASÍLICA DE SAN FRANCISCO EL GRANDE
Pizarra
AV.
6
LAS VENTILLAS / HUERTO URBANO
Fósforo
Sac
nd
la
CALLAO
Plaza de Sto. Domingo
Plaza Isabel II
TEATRO REAL
J.
Yagüe
CUZCO
NUEVOS MINISTERIOS
Calle
2
10
le
al lV
Pe
de
MONASTERIO DESCALZAS REALES
Plaza de Oriente
do
del
RÍOS ROSAS
MUSEO MUNICIPAL
San
Tesoro
na
SANTO DOMINGO
METRO
C.
Re
C.
C.
ón
AYUNTAMIENTO
Jardines de Las Vistillas
6
C. Espíritu Calle
C
PALACIO DUQUES DE UCEDA VIADUCTO
Moreno Nieto
PASE O
5
sa
BOWLING PARK
METRO
Plaza de España
6 4PA L A C I O 8
ares
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METRO
yes Re R. Le
METRO
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IGLESIA S. MARCOS
V CONVENTO DE LA Jardines ENCARNACIÓN la o de Sabatini .B
DE
4
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del
Ríos
Plaza Olavide
METRO
4 8 5 UNIVERSIDAD 10 2 2 3 GR 8 AN 9 VÍ A 9 GR
Plaza de la Armería
Parque de Atenas
C.
Juan
Pl. de Cuzco
CASTILLEJOS
Guzmán
de
Glorieta de Bilbao
aña
NOVICIADO
CUARTEL DE CONDE DUQUE
E NT SENADO
I
ANZA
C. M. Malas
Pl. de las Comendadoras
de
TRAFALGAR
CARR
C.
C. Pedro
RÍOS ROSAS
Calle
QUEVEDO
de la Cruz
Huesca
Maudes
Cristóbal
Glorieta del General Álvarez de Castro
Glorieta
3
z
PLAZA DE ESPAÑA
PALACIO REAL
CALLE
Cru
María
Calle
METRO
ela
C. RA IMU ND O FDE Z. VIL LAV ERD E CONSEJERÍA DE
A Ruiz Jiménez
ta
VENTURA RODRÍGUEZ
METRO
METRO
AGUILER
San
CE
S.
CUESTA
Campo del Moro
SAN BERNARDO
ALBERTO e
Pl. Conde Valle Suchil Pedro
San
Artistas
Calle
Eloy Glorieta alle de Quevedo C
Católico
Valdés
PALACIO DE LIRIA
CATEDRAL DE LA ALMUDENA
PTE. DE SEGOVIA
OZONE
PRÍNCIPE PÍO
METRO
Gta. de S. Vicente
Puente del Rey
ART DECÓ BOWLING
7
a
an
int
Qu
MUSEO Parque de CERRALBO la Montaña
3
5
M.
4
Ro
10 PLACA DE SAN PABLO
Cortés
Áng
Fr
Gervás
Hernani
POLÍTICA TERRITORIAL ESTACIÓN CONTINENTAL-AUTO
METRO
Ríos
El
de
C A LLE
CANAL
los
Meléndez
Call
TEMPLO DE DEBOD
ESTACIÓN PRÍNCIPE PÍO
de
Fernando
CALLE
C. ARGÜELLES co lle Ca cis an Fr
y
ESTACIÓN LA SEPULVEDANA
S
ANTONIO GRILLO/ HUERTO URBANO
3
DIVERBOWLING
de
TORRIJOS
NARE
4
ÉSTA ES UNA PLAZA/ HUERTO URBANO
2
BOWLING CHAMARTÍN
C.
TRIBUNAL DE LA INQUISICIÓN
MANZA
3
CAMPO DE LA CEBADA
1
de
2
LA PILUKA / HUERTO URBANO/ Solares
S
Fdez.
Rodríguez
so uce
en
Re
30
1
BOWLING ALLEYS
uijo
Urq
SAN ANTONIO DE LA FLORIDA
GUERNIKAKO ARBOLA
Calle
METRO
Bu
l
de
Rosaleda
Plaza San Antonio de la Florida
Casa de Campo
LAND PLOTS
C. d
CASA DE CAMPO
EMIR MOHAMED I
C.
CANALEJAS
s de
qué
ar el M
Donoso
ARAPILES
ARGÜELLES
ano
a
le d
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rez
mir
lt eA
Cal
o Teleféric
RÍO
10 TOPLESS MOCAMBO
9
Parque del Oeste
tiér
Gu
tor
HOTEL ATLÁNTICO
ns
M-
10 COLONIA SALUD Y AHORRO
9
8
LEON FELIPE
oe
Pin
Paseo de Recoletos, 15
BAR OSKAR
m
l
8
7
C. d
de
Plaza del Rey, 1
CHURRERÍA SAN GINÉS
lle
7
6
eB
o
Plaza de Santa Ana, 4
BINGO RIOJANO
Ca
o enit
ida or Fl s la ina de Mar o se eto ic An
9
6
5
PRIMER CINE
R
ro
me
Ro
de
lle Ca
do
e obl
de
C.
MONCLOA
Pa
8
Embajadores, 39
CINE IDEAL
4
ROMBOS 15M se
7
5
CERVECERÍA FREIDURÍA LA CARPA
3
seo
METRO
Pa
Pa
6
Miguel Servet, 14
4
CAFÉ CENTRAL
2
PLACA 15M
ret
Mo
de
e
5
Glorieta Puerta de Toledo
3
FAJAS RUIZ
1
C
erto
.d
4
IGLESIA DE SAN MARTÍN
2
HOTEL MEDIODÍA
INTERCAMBIADOR DE TRANSPORTES
í hap
ISLAS FILIPINAS
GAZT AMBIDE Calle
Calle
Francisco
C. Gral. Orgaz
Jaén
Pino
les
Mora
C. Apolonio
Calle Félix Boix
Rosario
Calle gall o
General
Avenida
C U AT R O CAMINOS
BERMÚDEZ
Joaquín María López
Calle
Is
Calle
ARCO DE LA VICTORIA
ugue Berr
TÓ CA
J. C.
C LI
ida
CEA
s
ina
Filip
las
n Ave
DE
METRO
o niz Pa
OS
VIC
Rup
o
se
Pa
Pº
3
Calle del Reloj, 14
1
NAME PLATES
CALLE
rife
CO
er
1
FARO DE MADRID
d an
AR
AS
Estadio Vallehermoso de
ALVARADO
Calle
Depósitos Canal Isabel II
nt Sa
AV .
EO
Plaza de P Cristo Rey
Ca
2
CIUDAD UNIVERSITARIA
SA
Peral
1
IS
A FR
ruel
CUATRO CAMINOS
C.
Santander
DE
N
HOSPITAL CLÍNICO
MUSEO DE AMÉRICA
L SA Parque
CO
NC
VALLEHERMOSO
IA
Neon commercial signs
del
Calle de Julian Romea
ES
del
de Te
C.
Mar
Sor
ino
C. San Enrique C. de la Coru ña
Calle
Glorieta de Cuatro Caminos
IAS ES
Avda.
Memories of the fallen angel
10 Panic in the Trans-Siberian express
Cabanillas
METRO
METRO
VICTORIA
A
C. L
Calle
Calle
8
Dr. Santero
IGL
CIUDAD UNIVERSITARIA
The tower of the seven hunchbacks
9
Asensio
Tene
8
AV
METROPOLITANO
Gral.
METRO
TO R
SUN DIALS
a on
The skull of Atahualpa
A ENID
LOA
METRO
METRO
ral.
Calle
pl m Pa
DEL
NC
CRUZ ROJA
REIN
tro
10 SPACE INVADER
RIO
talvo
Mon
Juan
BELLAS
GUZMÁN EL BUENO
aes
SAM3
7
riz
J. M
10 THE GEOGRAPHIC CLUB
9
EGO
AV. M O
Isaac
PUERTA GRANDE
ROSH. AFRODITA
GR
The day of the beast
eat
LO
8
6
C. B
PAB
NORTE SUR
ROA. Esta es una plaza
The heart of the warrior
Rubio
7
Raimundo
P. Vi ll
C. G
C. J. de Ol ías Calle de Áv ila
Carolinas
lle V I S TA S Almansa
lle Ca
LA TAURINA
NURIA MORA
5
Calle
s
6
ELTONO
I have ships available
a
on TETUÁN ale s METRO
Calle de
METRO
ar
Via n
od
METRO
Navarra Castilla
e
San
Ca
Almansa
Calle
Maeztu
de
o
ir Ram
o Vasc
GRÁFICAS SANTA CRUZ
5
BORONDO Y YETI
4
DE
EL RINCÓN DE CARDEÑA
4
The Merry Whale
vaca
EL PEZ GORDO
3
de
9
BOA MISTURA
e
8
3
The Path
Call
7
EL OLIVAR
2
C I U DA D UNIVERSIT ARIA
Alg
ESTRECHO
Call
Calle
Ara
6
BLU
Moreras
las
Rapture
adilla Bob
5
ARMERÍA ESPAÑOLA
2
1
AVENIDA
4
ALBERTO DE PEDRO
a raz Ped M. Federi co
Los
3
1
Mo
A NID AVE
2
ALDAO - PARKING
o
ren
FANTASY MADRID
nas
C.
Ne
lle
aro de H
Lope
Plaza de La Remonta
uce
de nú far
lle
RODRÍGUEZ
ros ñe Le Los ro jand Ale
o ieg
1
STREET ART
lle
C.
D de
TAXIDERMIC MADRID
A. Vallejo
METRO
Ca
il lam Vil
FRANCOS FRANCOS RODRÍGUEZ
co. C. F
Dehesa de la Villa
Alonso
s
Ca
C. Burgos
Núñez
ué
Ca
de
DE M. Auxiliadora
rq
BERRUGUETE
la
LE
Guarda
Dehesa
Villa
s Az
Ma
a. Ntr
el de Áng
la
de
CAL
Calle
tires
Már Av.
n lle Ca irecció D
nto . Sa
s
ista Mar
de la
Calle
Pº.
lde
Alca
C.
a Avd
Oza
del Obispo
na
VIRGEN DE LA PALOMA
Alzaga Martín
ta
de
ADO MACH
Isla
800 m
s
TAXIDERMIC MADRID
STREET ART
FANTASY MADRID
SUN DIALS
Ana Nieto
Guillermo de la Madrid
Jimina Sabadú
Macu Vicente
Madrid is one of those cities in which tradition and modernity go hand in hand. Traditional items continue to enjoy pride of place in many bars and commercial premises, traditions with a certain hint of fustiness, revealing customs of the not too distant past. Such items include hunting trophies, animals stuffed with more or less skill: owls; blowfish; bull, deer or boar’s heads; tortoises; crocodiles; sharks; Chinese antelopes from the marshlands … a whole range of fauna spread across the city, staring at us out of their glass eyes, from the walls of bars, car parks and even print shops. In their day, they were the pride of the predator; today we consider them to be mere kitsch items. Along this route you will find all types of creatures outside their natural habitat, something that well defines this capital city, which is mainly inhabited by outsiders. A great museum of Natural Science, with no need to get an entry ticket.
Traditionally, passers-by (tourists, visitors or local people) have been bombarded with guides, maps and leaflets on timeless subjects, on things that have remained unchanged for centuries or that are designed or conceived to do so for centuries to come. In this way, visits are made to the majestic remains of the past and to the creations that are set to become part of a city’s present and future attractions. Urban art gets away from the requirements of traditional tourism: it has not been created to astound visitors, neither does it represent the history of the city, instead it is the artistic expression that personifies the everyday world and the daily life of these cities. And, although if you’re not careful you may loose the chance to see something (many disappear at the first signs of change), there are works and contributions that do remain. These are the ones that will be shown on this route: large murals, small contributions in unexpected places, works created specifically for the particular spot in question: all are represented in this itinerary.
Although, as a country and as far as fiction is concerned, Spain is more naturalistic than fantastic (because the Spanish reality has always exceeded our expectations), there have always been some incursions into the realm of fantasy. Perhaps not many, and with a clear foreign influence in almost all of these works. They were not created spontaneously but were the product of new (or old) tendencies coming from beyond the Pyrenees. However these few works do show a strong personality, the fruit of mixing foreign influences with Spanish characteristics (which could also be called defects: defeatism, disenchantment, or downright depression) and a little genuine talent present in most of the authors of the works reviewed. Although some works have not been included here, as they took place in buildings or places that no longer exist, those that are included in the list have two characteristics in common: they are still standing, and are interesting per se. With or without the work that adopted them. Let’s hope that you make the tour and that you awake the spirit (not the corpse) of a Madrid that existed, exists and will continue to exist. However much some are set on burying it alive.
It is said that “time doesn’t exist, that time is the things that happen to you”, however humanity has always needed to measure it. For centuries, the shadow cast by the sun was the universally-accepted form of measurement and its original standard was the “gnomon”, a stick perpendicularly embedded in the ground, whose shadow indicated the different hours of the day. In the city of Madrid, there are some 50 gnomons located in parks, on fountains and buildings. These gnomons are of different types: vertical; horizontal; cylindrical; equatorial … and they often go unnoticed. Even in our high-tech times, they are still a reality, given the fact that the majority were made in more or less recent urban renovations.
1 ALDAO - PARKING
C/ Caballero de Gracia, 7
2 ARMERÍA ESPAÑOLA
C/ Jesús, 6
4 EL PEZ GORDO
C/ Atocha, 55
C/ Pez, 6
1
Rapture Plaza de España, 19. Torre España
C/ de Eugenio Caxes, 1
2
The Path
Iglesia San Martín de Tours, c/Desengaño 26
3 BOA MISTURA
C/ de San Dimas, 23
3
CAFÉ LYON (The Merry Whale)
James Joyce Pub c/Alcalá 59
C/ del Tribulete, 18 (CALLEJÓN)
C/ Rafael Calvo, 40
Carrera de San Jerónimo, 5
3
IGLESIA DE SAN MARTÍN
C/ del Prado, 23
C/ de Cedaceros, 5
7 ROA. Esta es una plaza
2
FAJAS RUIZ
C/ Narváez, 12
3
C/ Bravo Murillo, 97
C/ de la Huerta del Bayo, 5
5
5
Miguel Servet, 14
The heart of the warrior Hotel Emperador. C/Gran Vía 53
9 SAM3
C/ Pedro Heredia, 23
10 THE GEOGRAPHIC CLUB
C/ Alcalá, 141
C/ de Antonio López, 19
10 SPACE INVADER
C/ Toledo, 76
C/ Huertas, 64
Plaza Tirso de Molina, 20
5
CINE IDEAL
C/ Doctor Cortezo, 6
5
Abandoned or empty land plots represent new frontiers of opportunity in consolidated urban centres. In times of property market stagnation, like the situation we are now experiencing, these abandoned areas become unexpected infrastructures for temporary activities. Until recently, the use of land plots was centred on public occupation, as in the case of Olivar 48. However there is now a trend towards experimenting with processes to provisionally assign public land to associations and social movements. We are interested in retrieving and looking at these sites in which the urban use of the land runs parallel to the planned use. Despite the differences existing with regard to the contents, history and dynamics of these sites, they all have one common denominator: Self-management. We are therefore going to use this thread as a criterion for mapping the route around these social centres. It will therefore be possible to take a look at a number of self-managed sites in different points of Madrid.
CANALEJAS Puerta del Sol, 6
As can be seen, the route is not particularly long: only a short while ago, bowling allies were prolific in Madrid, however, the appearance of more sophisticated leisure activities has put an end to what were actually meeting places for young people, in the style of amusement arcades, and these have now replaced by gambling houses in many cases. The bowling allies left in Madrid are no longer “neighbourhood allies”, with rudimentary lanes and quaint parishioners, but are located in shopping malls outside the Madrid city centre. As it was precisely these malls that were responsible for putting an end to neighbourhood entertainment, it is paradoxical that all the Madrid bowling allies but one are now located in these shopping centres.
1
LA PILUKA / HUERTO URBANO/ Solares
Plaza de Corcubión, 16, Prosperidad. Madrid
1
www.lapiluka.org/el-huerto-delbarrio/
BOWLING CHAMARTÍN
Agustín de Foxá, 26
2
CAMPO DE LA CEBADA
Plaza de la Cebada Nº16
2
DIVERBOWLING
elcampodecebada.org
Silvano, 77
3
ÉSTA ES UNA PLAZA/ HUERTO URBANO
3
ART DECÓ BOWLING
Paseo de la Ermita del Santo, 48
C/ Doctor Fourquet 24
www.estaesunaplaza.blogspot. com
4 ANTONIO GRILLO/ HUERTO URBANO
6 Embajadores, 39
Ever since the audiovisual quality of home entertainment has been in a position to compete with that offered by cinemas, theatres and concert halls, and whilst the city’s nightlife is invariably cut short by municipal regulations, bowling alleys continue to survive as leisure centres which have not yet encountered a worthy counterpart at home (not considering the virtual versions available for senior citizens. Bowling allies continue to need spacious premises, with specific conditions and, above all, with that kind of atmosphere reminiscent of a pagan temple that has always surrounded this type of sport-come-hobby, for teenagers trying to get rid of their hangovers. The bowling allies present in Madrid still conserve some of this antiquated American-style dignity, which makes them special.
C/ Antonio grillo Nº 8 www.solardegrilo.net/
6 BINGO RIOJANO
6 The day of the beast
7
7
The skull of Atahualpa
6 EMIR MOHAMED I C/ Mayor (antes Mateo Morral), 83
7
CHURRERÍA SAN GINÉS
7
GUERNIKAKO ARBOLA
C/ del Arenal, 11 (pasadizo de San Ginés)
C/ Montera, 48, semiesquina a Gran Vía.
C/ Silva, 2
8 TRIBUNAL DE LA INQUISICIÓN
Museo Ferroviario Delicias, pº Delicias 61
C/ Los Geranios Nº 22
C/ Pez Nº21 ıı www.patiomaravillas.net
LA TABACALERA C/ Embajadores Nº 53 latabacalera.net/ç
8 CENTRO SOCIAL SECO 9 Paseo de Recoletos, 15
4 OZONE
c) Calderilla, 1
6 EPA PATIO MARAVILLAS
C/ Torija, 12
9 HOTEL ATLÁNTICO
Gran Vía 38
9 TORRIJOS
9 LA ESKALERA DE CARACOLA
10 COLONIA SALUD Y AHORRO
10. TOPLESS MOCAMBO
C/ Bernardino Antequera y varias más
C/ Marqués de Leganés
C/ Arregui Nº 29 ıı www.cs-seco.org/
C/ Preciados, 32
Parroquia de Santa Bárbara, C/General Castaños, 2
10 Panic in the Trans-Siberian express
LAS VENTILLAS / HUERTO URBANO
7
C/ del Rollo. s/n
9 Memories of the fallen angel
5
tierraaire.wordpress.com/
8 BAR OSKAR
8 The tower of the seven hunchbacks
Plaza Jacinto Benavente, 91
Plaza de Santa Ana, 4
C/mártires de Alcalá con c/Princesa
9 PUERTA GRANDE
Carrera de San Jerónimo, 32-34
4 CERVECERÍA FREIDURÍA LA CARPA
8 Plaza del Rey, 1 8 ROSH. AFRODITA
PRIMER CINE
Plaza del Ángel, 10
4 Glorieta Puerta de Toledo
Todo por la Praxis
ROMBOS 15M
4 LEON FELIPE
C/ del Doctor Fourquet, 24
8 NORTE SUR
01 PLACA 15M Puerta del Sol
3 CAFÉ CENTRAL
6 NURIA MORA
John Tones
Madrid is full of streets dedicated to Catholicism, whilst hardly any are dedicated to cultural and natural values. There are none dedicated to Mozart, Beethoven, Shakespeare or Voltaire, in contrast to many other capital cities within Spain. Instead, there are a great many street names of shame, a reminder of the worst of the Franco regime. Over the last few decades, an attempt has been made to correct this anachronism, with a historical review that has only just begun and which has dedicated new nameplates and monuments to some key figures from the Spanish and European enlightenment. There are also nameplates dedicated to historical monuments in our cities that have nothing to do with politics or power. Today these are hardly noticed, such as the first cinema projection or the first time the Basque anthem was performed, as well as others which are more remote, from centuries past, which are now seen with a certain irony.
Plaza del Emperador Carlos V, 8
Plaza de Santa Soledad Torres Acosta
4 I have ships available
Fuente del Ángel Caído, Parque del Retiro
7 LA TAURINA
5 ELTONO
BOWLING ALLEYS
A look at self-managed plots.
1 HOTEL MEDIODÍA
4 BORONDO Y YETI
Having said this, the bulk of the city’s neon lights is made up of simple signs which, although on a more modest scale, have personalised their surroundings just as strongly, and are unconsciously registered in the minds of the passers-by. If the new regulations are strictly applied, it is highly unlikely that all these signs will survive. Furthermore, all the signs we’ve selected pertain to businesses which, although renovated, have existed for decades with concepts of times of old, making them unique in this quagmire of franchises and designer stores in which we are immersed.
LAND PLOTS.
Santi Ochoa
Barrio de Malasaña
Plaza del Ángel, 2
6 GRÁFICAS SANTA CRUZ
2 Calle del Reloj, 14
When talking about the Madrid neon scene, there is a tendency to limit its scope to the half a dozen signs displayed by the large companies. Signs which are repeatedly reproduced by the media and which were also reviewed in our first issue of this route. Signs which the municipal authorities have decided to leave out of their aesthetic witch hunt, thanks to public pressure.
NAME PLATES
2
Catedral de la Almudena C/Bailén 8-10
5 EL RINCÓN DE CARDEÑA
Avda. de Puerta de Hierro, 4
Adriana Herreros y Mauro Entrialgo
2 BLU
C/ Monte Esquinza, 5
3 EL OLIVAR
1 ALBERTO DE PEDRO
1 CIUDAD UNIVERSITARIA
Neon commercial signs
10 PLACA DE SAN PABLO Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 28
C/ Embajadores Nº 52 www.sindominio.net/karakola/
10 ESCUELA POPULAR LA PROSPE
C/ Luis Cabrera Nº 19 prosperesiste.nodo50.org/
05 BOWLING PARK
c) Aracne, 3