Editorial Ya ha pasado el verano, o casi, y de nuevo empezamos una nueva etapa. El mundo miniaturil sigue el calendario escolar, todo se para en verano, los talleres, el horno para cocer la pasta polimérica, los días son más largos y los aprovechamos para estar con la familia para disfrutar de la naturaleza, para disfrutar de los amigos y los más afortunados para aquellos viajes soñados durante todo el año. Pero de vuelta en Septiembre empiezan los talleres y las ferias. Este año como los anteriores La feria de Assarmicat en Barcelona ofrece un montón de ellos con un gran abanico de posibilidades. NR asistirá a la feria y
si es posible os ofrecerá algunas fotos si los artesanos lo permiten.
pekevasion.blogspot.com
A partir de ahora NR no aparecerá a principios de cada mes, sino cuando las condiciones lo permitan, ya que 30 días es demasiado poco para organizar un número por una sola persona. Espero que lo entendáis. También NR os ofrece la posibilidad de proponer vuestros propios tutoriales para ser publicados cuando encajen en la temática de la revista. Sólo tenéis que enviar el enlace por el formulario de contacto del blog.
elpetitmondelalluna.blogspot.com
Mafalda200 Septiembre 2013
lacasitapequena.blogspot.com 2
Índice
Tutoriales: ANDREA THIECK: bow
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APRIL KELLY-WRIGHT: weathervane
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AUXI FLORES: conjunto marinero
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BARBARA DEZZA: funghi
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CINDY TEH: paper doilies
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DOROTHÉE VANTORRE: bearded colley
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KATRINA REID : easy basket
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M. NIEVES JIMÉNEZ GALEOTE : jersey doblado
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MICHAELA STANGE: Nostalgische Schreibfeder
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NATALIA FRANK: a house in a teacup
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RACHELLE SPIEGEL: Faux Smocking Nightgown
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Artesana Invitada: JÚLIA LEÓN QUIROGA
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Ferias
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mini-escenas.blogspot.com
elminimundodelaura.blogspot.com
lasminiaturasdebego.blogspot.com 3
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ANDREA THIECK http://andrea-thieck-miniatures.blogspot.com.es/2010/07/finally-bow-making.html
Place tiny dots of glue on the ribbon.
Put the ribbon on the corc.
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I like this Planatol Glue, when I work with paper or fabric. DON'T use the "normal" Aleene's tacky glue. I like it very much, but it turns yellow! On lighter ribbons it could be seen. But Aleene's Thick Designer Glue would work fine.
Fold a loop over the needle...
and press it firmly on the ground. 6
Continue the same way, but make sure, that you shift the ribbon around while putting one layer over the other.
Before you place the last loop - cut the ribbon and turn it inside with a tweezer.
Firmly press it down.
Unfortunately I used a stronger ribbon, because my silk ribbons are so small, that it would have been difficult to take photos. These bows look much nicer and fluffier with silk ribbons! 7
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APRIL KELLY KELLY--WRIGHT http://everylittlethingblog.wordpress.com/2013/04/01/miniature-weathervane-tutorial/
Today I’m going to show you how I made a working (the top will spin but I wouldn’t take it into a windstorm ), 1/12th scale weathervane.
Feel free to change any of the tools and materials, but for the purposes of this tutorial I will show you what I used. 9
MATERIALS: Box of macaroni letters 4 small wooden beads 1/32” & 3/32” Dremel drill bits Craft paper punch – I used a Rooster and Fish shapes from Punch Bunch Woodsie craft picks and toothpicks White card stock Aprox 4 inches of 20 gauge jewelry wire Wire cutter Tacky glue and super glue – I use Zap A Gap Paint – Black and Copper White Gesso Small paint brushes Wax Paper Fine sandpaper – 220 grit Craft blade – x-Acto Tweezers to handle pieces for gluing and painting 10
First punch out 6 shapes from the card stock, this will make your top the same width as the craft pick arrow.
Sandwich the 6 pieces together with tacky glue and brush a bit of glue around the edges too.
The craft stick is too long as is to make the arrow, so you will need to cut away the center and shape the tail. 11
Glue the centers together and leave to dry. It will be sanded smooth later.
Now you will need to drill out the small wood beads so they fit over the toothpick. The 3/32’’ inch Dremel bit is perfect for this. Do it by hand, please do not try to drill these out with your rotary tool. A gentle twist with your fingers should be enough power. 12
Now use the tacky glue to keep 3 of the beads on the base. Be sure to leave enough space for your N.E.S.W arms. Let it dry.
Find one of each N, E, S, and W macaroni letters. Cut the jewelry wire into 4 equal lengths, just under and inch. Set down a small piece of wax paper for drying pieces attached with the following glue mixture. Prepare a small amount of tacky glue and super glue, do not try to pre-mix this, it will just make a crusty unusable mess. I re-use washed plastic food lids for super glues.
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First, dip your wire into the tacky glue, then very quickly into the super glue and then onto your letters. Hold the letters and wire together for about 10 seconds before setting them down to dry on the wax. At about the 10 second mark it will still be possible to gently adjust the position of the letters, without accidentally removing them. The wires should be attached in this direction .
Again, by hand use the 1/32� bit to make a guide holes for the N.E.S.W arms. A sewing pin or needle might work too.
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Now glue in the N.E.S.W arms using the tacky & super quick dip method. Check over your arrangement from all angles to make sure it lines up properly and the letters are angled correctly.
Glue your topper together, tacky glue alone will be fine for this part. If the bead hole is open, no worries, it will be covered by the gesso in the next steps.
You will need to shorten the top of the toothpick, make sure it’s the same length as the bead on the topper. If it’s too short the topper will be wobbly. 15
Paint both sections with 2 layers of white gesso.
and then sand gently once dry.
Next is painting. I used Worn Penny by Deco Art, mixed with a tiny bit of black acrylic to tone down the shine.
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One coat will not likely be enough as the white will still show through.
I did two full coats and a few touch ups.
To age the copper, I used this antiquing solution which is a verdigris wash. These kinds of solutions can be pricey; I was lucky enough to find it on clearance, there are easily accessible tutorials out there on how to age copper inexpensively or fake it with acrylic washes.
This particular kind takes 3-4 coats and is water thin. I sped along the drying time with a hot hair dryer. You can see that I put some paper towels under the pieces to keep the solution from running all over. 17
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AUXI FLORES http://www.minisdeauxi.blogspot.com.es/search/label/Tutoriales Vestido marinero Materiales Algodón o lana muy finita en dos colores Agujas de 1 mm Puntos empleados Punto musgo (bobo o Santa Clara), Punto jersey
Ejecución Montar 34 puntos y hacer 3 vueltas al derecho. 4ª vuelta al revés 5ª y 6ª vueltas a p. jersey en color blanco Hacer 16 vueltas a punto jersey La 23ª hacerla toda cogiendo los puntos de dos en dos al derecho, al final de la vuelta tenemos 17 puntos. 24ª al revés 25ª y 26ª a p. jersey en color blanco 27ª y 28ª a p. jersey en color azul 29ª y 30ª a p. jersey en color blanco 31ª y 32ª a p. jersey en color azul En la 33ª se reparten 6 puntos para cada hombro y 5 puntos para el escote y se teje así: Hacer 6 puntos al derecho (un tirante) cerrar los 5 puntos del escote y seguir con los 6 del segundo tirante. Seguir trabajando durante 12 vueltas. Cortar el hilo y hacer el otro tirante igual, al acabar las 12 vueltas aumentar 5 puntos para el escote y seguir con los 6 del otro tirante. 19
A partir de aquí se teje la espalda como el delantero pero de arriba abajo. Cuando se tejen las rayitas en azul y blanco, se aumentan 17 puntos (se teje un punto del derecho y sin sacarlo de la aguja se teje del revés) Se cosen las costuras laterales hasta la primera rayita blanca.
Sombrerito playero Este es el sombrero a juego con el vestido Materiales Hilo de algodón y agujas de 1 mm Ejecución Montar 7 puntos 1ª vuelta al revés 2ª *1 punto derecho, 1 hebra*, 1 punto derecho. Repetir de *a* 3ª al revés 4ª *2 pd, 1 h,* 1 pd. Repetir de *a* 5ª al revés 6ª *3 pd, 1 h,* 1 pd. Repetir de *a* 7ª al revés 8ª *4 pd, 1 h, * 1 pd. Repetir de *a* 9ª al derecho 10ª al derecho 11ª al revés 12ª al derecho 13ª al revés 14ª al derecho con el hilo blanco 15ª al revés con el hilo blanco 16ª al derecho 17ª al revés 18ª al derecho, cada dos puntos aumentar uno sacándolo de la hebra que queda entre los dos puntos. Queda agujerito. 19ª al derecho Cerrar todos los puntos Coser con costura invisible 20
Aqui se ve bien como quedan las catas o quillas
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BARBARA DEZZA www.minib.it/tutorials/funghi.pdf
MATERIALE OCCORRENTE • Paste sintetiche nei colori: Champagne / Terracotta • Attrezzi per modellare come da foto. • Lametta • Piastrella
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FOTO 2: Usate l’attrezzo per modellare a punta rotonda per incidere la vostra pallina di Fimo, avrete ottenuto il cappello del fungo. Fatelo sul dito o su materiale morbido, altrimenti la parte inferiore anziché arrotondata verr{ piatta.
FOTO 1: Prendete una porzione di pasta sintetica color Champagne e formate una pallina di circa mezzo centimetro di diametro (fatene di diverse dimensioni).
FOTO 3: Seguite il medesimo procedimento della FOTO 1 con la pasta sintetica color Terracotta. Fate una pallina più piccola della precedente.
FOTO 4: Inserite la pallina color Terracotta nell’incavo. 24
FOTO 5: Con l’attrezzo per modellare a punta rotonda schiacciate leggermente la pallina color Terracotta.
FOTO 6: Usate adesso l’attrezzo a punta piatta e incidete alcune linee incrociate a imitare le lamelle.
FOTO 8: Inserite il gambo ottenuto nel centro del cappello. Cercate di modellare ogni fungo leggermente diverso dal precedente, date angolazioni differenti ai gambi.
FOTO 7: Rollate un poco di Fimo color Champagne e tagliatene un piccolo pezzo. Questo sar{ il gambo del fungo e le sue dimensioni varieranno a seconda della grandezza del cappello.
FOTO 9: Ecco l’insieme dei funghi finiti. Volendo, potete sporcare con un poco di acrilico marrone o con polvere di gessetti da artista la base del gambo a imitare la terra. Cuocete la pasta sintetica in forno a circa 130° per 20 minuti.//// 25
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CINDY TEH http://snowfern-clover.blogspot.com.es/2011/03/tutorial-paper-doilies.html PREPARATION WORK I initially thought it would be costly, what with P*rgamano tools (a famous paper piercing tool brand) costing upwards of USD$10
per tool -_-" That and the needles were a little too thick for 1:12 scale. SO I MADE MY OWN! woot woot! And you can too, so simple!
Clip the needle to about 1inch, or shorter. Be careful so it does not fly into your eye, or elsewhere to be discovered only when someone steps or sits on it :X hold on to both ends, and try and avoid hurting yourself.
Craft knife , Needle (stainless steel), Clipper/Wire Nipper
My Daiso craft knife cinches together rather snugly, so the fine needle is held rather well in the centre of the crosshairs. 27
However if your craft knife is like this older one I have, then simply position the needle off to the side, making sure that it is snug and will not wiggle too much.
There you have it! your own needle tool :D You can also use thicker needles to vary the size of the holes, or if you're up for it, put a few needles together in a row or pattern for triangles or crosses. Play around with it!
YOU WILL NEED: 1-inch scalloped edge punch (pictured is EK Success brand from a scrapbook store) OR 1-inch circle punch (pictured is Carla Craft from a scrapbook store) OR Circle template (pictured from Daiso)
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Pin pricking tool Low tack adhesive tape Scissors Packing material (the translucent foam sheets used to pack plates in) or other 'soft' material to provide padding to prick into Cutting mat Paper, 80gsm printing paper, or 70gsm pastel coloured papers Save the above pattern onto your computer, or print it directly off your browser onto 80gsm paper (or of your choice).
For this cake doily project, print it at its original size. This pattern was made to use with a 1-inch scallop paper punch that I have (shown below), but can also be used with a normal 1-inch circle punch. 29
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DOROTHÉE VANTORRE http://lesfollesmarquises.blogspot.com.es/2012/01/joy-ou-pourquoi-je-deteste-parfois-ma.html
Je voudrais vous présenter Joy. Il s'agit d'une adorable chienne de race Bearded Colley, que mon amie Anne-Charlotte m'a demandé de représenter en pâte polymère, afin de faire un cadeau de Noël à quelqu'un dont elle est très proche.
I would like to present you Joy. It is an adorable Bearded Collie pedigree dog my friend AnneCharlotte asked me to represent in polymer clay, to make a Christmas gift to someone she is very close.
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Pour commencer, la structure en aluminium est façonnée d'après une photo de la vraie Joy.
First, the aluminum foil structure is shaped after a photograph of the real Joy.
La structure est ensuite recouverte d'une couche de p}te polymère blanche d'environ 2 mm d'épaisseur.
The structure is then covered with a layer of white polymer clay about 2 mm thick.
Avec le clay gun, j'ai extrudé des "boudins" blancs et noirs que j'ai ensuite coupés en tronçons d'environ 1 cm de long puis façonnés { la main un par un... With the clay gun, I extruded black and white tubes, cut them into pieces about 1 cm long then shaped them by hand one by one... 32
Les poils sont ensuite appliquĂŠs sur le corps en se superposant.
The hair is then applied all over the body.
La langue.
The tongue.
La truffe.
The nose.
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Les yeux sont faits avec des perles de verre noir, pour l'ĂŠclat.
The eyes are made with black glass seedbeads.
Les oreilles.
The ears.
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La coiffure.
The hairdress.
Et voici Joy (après la cuisson) !
Here is Joy (after baking) !
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KATRINA REID http://katiesclaycorner.blogspot.com.es/search/label/tutorial
My Mom gave me these hole punches that she no longer needed, and it gave me an idea... I thought they'd make some really pretty baskets! 39
Once you figure out which one you want to use... you will need to punch to designs next to each other so they look like one continuous design. Then your first cut is going to be where I have the arrows drawn.... and your second cut is where the stitch line is- this line can be moved depending on how tall you want you basket. I wanted mine short..... but you can still see the pen marks from the arrows on the sides...don't worry!
Use heavy paper- I'm using something colorful so you can see it better! But a thicker paper will work better. Anyways roll this piece around a Round pen until the paper is curved.... 40
Then decide where to cut it. You do need some to overlap so you can glue it together. Let it dry.... and then this is where it's just like Marlies' pitchers. Glue piece to paper, cut out and paint. (I'm skipping the details, if you need more.. just ask:)
And here's mine..... I started these a Long time ago.... and have just finally gotten around to finishing painting them. LOL... took me forever to decide what color I wanted them... they have been white, linen, cream, moss, green, silver, and then finally vintage white..
These are going in The Painted Lady..... one day...... And what are they going to hold?
But my mini sea collection, of course :)
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shell
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M. NIEVES JIMÉNEZ GA GALEOTE LEOTE http://lasminisdemnini.blogspot.com.es/2013/01/jersey-de-cuello-vuelto.html
Antes de empezar, aclarar que lo único que es de mi cosecha es el cuello. Todo lo demás lo saqué de un tutorial que continúo sin encontrar. Por favor, si alguien sabe cual es me gustaría que lo indicara.
MATERIALES: -Cartón de 3cm.x2'3cm. -Trozo de jersey o calcetín finito de 5cmx12cm. -Trozo de la patente del mismo de 2cm.x4cm. (Si lo quieren más abocado, pueden alargar los 4cm.) -Pegamento de cianocrilato, mejor de tela. -Pegamento de tela -Tijeras 43
Primero pegamos el cartón centrado en el ancho de la tela y a 1 cm de uno de sus bordes. A continuación doblamos los dos laterales de manera que se unan en el centro y el ancho sea el mismo en toda la tira.
Una vez secos doblamos la parte que medía 1cm. hacia el lado de la unión y la parte larga la plegamos una vez peg|ndola donde coincida con el borde del cartón
Volvemos a doblar por la mitad y nos queda:
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Ahora vamos con el cuello, a partir de aqu铆 utilizo pegamento de cianocrilato. Hacemos un "rulo" con la patente y pegamos los extremos (Los que miden 2cm.)
Una vez seco se pega esta uni贸n a la mitad de la zona superior en la parte m|s plana del jersey a unos 2mm. del borde. Hay que procurar que la parte pegada sea la que se deshilacha.
A continuaci贸n medimos la mitad del cuello y lo pegamos por delante (parte m|s blandita) intentando que quede tambi茅n a la mitad, a unos 5mm del borde superior. Ahuecamos y pegamos los laterales.
Doblamos el cuello y... esto es lo que queda 45
Nostalgia en 1zu12 46
MICHAELA STANGE http://michaelas-miniaturen.beeplog.de/151819_480973.htm
Man benötigt: Zahnstocher Schleifpapier Acrylfarbe Metallfolie Edding
Zunächst feilt man einen Zahnstocher in die gewünschte Form. Also die Spitze runder, und insgesamt etwas dünner.
Das sieht schon mal ganz schön aus
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Der Griffel wird mit dem Skalpell etwas eingeritzt Ein Streifen von der Folie wird eingesteckt, so kann man den Griffel leichter anmalen Zum anmalen und trocknen in Steckschau m stecken
Oben wird ein goldener Rand aufgemalt 48
Mit dem Edding werden die Federn auf die Folie aufgezeichnet. Mit einer Schere ausschneiden.
Die ausgeschnittenen Federn werden noch in Form gebogen.
Und noch mit schwarzer Farbe betupft
Nur noch die Feder einstecken Fertig 49
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NATALIA FRANK http://www.scarletsailsminiatures.blogspot.com.es/p/tutorials.html
First of all you need to find a teacup and saucer. The size of the teacup depends on your project and what scene actually you would like to make inside. It is not necessary should be a house, it can be any other scene. I was looking for a very beautiful flower design, but then I changed my mind. I didn't want too much colors on my teacup and I thought that saucer will be decorated and covered and nobody will see the design. It is also doesn't matter where your teacup was made in. As you see, everything is a just a matter of your preference 51
Place the teacup on the saucer in the position you would like it to see. When placing the cup be sure to anchore the handle to the saucer if the design will allow and to keep the lip of the cup level or just below the edge of the saucer so your ground will be as flat as possible. The HANDLE SHOULDN'T BE GLUED TO THE SAUCER!,
For example, for my other Cup Project I am thinking to use a deep bowl. and glue it, I used 527 Multi -Use Glue (you can buy it at any Craft stores) Let it dry.
While you are waiting for your teacup to be glued, make a template for a ground. I cut a circle out of paper that had an approx. size of the saucer with a little "tongue" that goes inside the cup and symbolize a ground for the house. 52
Now, if you look at this picture, you will see, why I asked you not to glue the handle to the saucer:
Trim the edges of your template, cutting as close to the edges of the saucer as possible, making it even.
trace your template on it and cut it out
Take a chip board
try it on your cup (it should be glued already) and trim it if necessary . Then, paint this chip board in dark green and let it dry. 53
While it is drying, take a plastic bag (I used just a bag from a grocery store), put some Fine Turf (I used Green Grass), Spread it evenly on the surface
OK, back to the green chip board. Dried? Good! Now you will need General Purpose 45 Spray Adhesive, or you can use a hair spray. I would advise to go outside, or in the bathroom and spray that dried green piece of chip board with Spray Adhesive (or your hair spray). After that with a sprayed surface put your chip board in Fine Turf and push it all around. I found out that sprinkling green ground cover over doesn't help. Shake the excess, then spray again and "sink" it in Fine Turf again. Shake the excess. Let dry. 54
Take you green ground cover and glued with 527 or E6000 glue to the saucer. Put it aside. Time to build a house! Here is the templates, refer to the squares: Cut house front out of wood - be sure to watch the grain of the wood and make your first cut across the grain - then cut the gable in the front. Cut the top angles of the side pieces - save the triangles to use as the roof on the gable at the front of the house. Decide where you want your window and cut the opening before you assemble the house - remember again to make the cuts across the grain first.
Glue the sides and front together front view
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back view
side view
Try it in your teacup to see if it fits, :)))))
Aren't you tired yet?! If not, let's decorate your house now, and it is all you, without my help. Here some tips for you though: Stain the frame of the window to match your house trim. Make the windows panes in window by painting with thinned Elmers glue over wax paper. Make take more than one coat for a complete pane of glass. Paint the background color of the house and stain the trim.
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RACHELLE SPIEGEL http://home.mindspring.com/~byrachelle/id9.html Materials Fine, even weave cotton fabric (cotton batiste, Egyptian cotton, or other light weight fabric) Lightweight cotton gauze or voile in matching or contrasting color 2mm and 4mm silk ribbon Narrow trim or braid for shoulders Narrow (1/4” wide or less) edging lace for hem and sleeve edges.
Tools and Supplies Small sherp scissors for fabric Scissors for paper Small sewing needle Isect pins, fine beading needles or fine silk pins Steam iron or hand held steamer ¼” dowel White tacky-type or fabric glue Freezer or Butcher’s paper (paper which is coated on one side with wax or plastic) Waxed paper Syringe type glue gun or small tipped squeeze bottle for glue(optional) Unscented hair spray, spray starch, or fabric stiffenener (Stiffy or Stiffen Stuff) Ruler
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ut a piece of fabric 7 ½” wide x 3” long. Be certain that your cuts run parallel to the grain of the fabric. Check the grain by pulling a thread of the fabric from the short side right near the long edge. If you pull the thread all the way out of the fabric the empty space will create a cutting line right along the grain. Seal all edges with a very fine line of glue, especially if you plan to sew the garment.
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easure 1/8” from the long edge and pull out one single thread in the same manner that you found the grain above. This time you will use the empty space as a guide for the fold of your hem.
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se only the tiniest amount of glue.
old the fabric into four even sections and mark the center and each quarter fold with a pin or by taking a small stitch with a needle and contrasting thread along the unhemmed edge.
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ut a piece of lace 15 ½ inches long. Divide into four even sections and mark in the same manner that you did for the fabric. 60
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ind the heading thread at one cut end in the top of the lace and put a small dot of glue on the end so that when you pull the thread to gather the lace, it will not pull through. If your lace does not have a heading thread you will have to sew a tiny running stitch all the way across the top part of the lace to gather.
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se a tweezers to grab the header thread and begin to gather the lace. Lay your fabric on your workspace and, starting with the edge of the lace that you sealed with glue, match the first quarter division on both the lace and the fabric, pin together and adjust the gathers evenly between the two points. Run a line of glue along that quarter of the bottom edge (you may also sew for this step). Glue or sew this section together, then match the pieces of the next section. This procedure helps to make the gathers more evenly spaced. Continue until the entire piece of lace is attached.
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ab a bit of glue along the top inch or so of one raw edge of the fabric to seal the threads. Allow the glue to dry completely.
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sing a needle or straight pin, at the opposite raw edge, carefully pull up one long horizontal thread, about 1/8” from the outside edge and ¼” below the finished top edge (just below the hem). Pull up a second thread about 1/16” below the first thread. Pull up two more threads at the same interval in this manner.
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heck to be certain that the glue on the opposite sealed edge has dried completely. Now grab all the loose threads that you have pulled up into one hand. Holding the threads firmly, GENTLY and carefully gather the fabric on these threads. Pull into even gathers. If a thread does break, pull another right next to it to replace it. f you plan to display the finished garment in a setting, gather so that the fabric measures about 2 ½� across the gathered area. f you are dressing a one inch scale miniature doll, gather the fabric enough to wrap around your doll over the bust and under her arms with a 1/4 inch overlap for a seam. (NOTE: This garment should only be made on a doll with full porcelain arms as the arm will show through the gauze sleeve). fter you have gathered the fabric, seal each of the threads with a drop of glue to keep the gathers from coming out. ake certain that the gathers are even. Pin natural looking folds to your ironing board, steam and let dry. The best pins to use are insect pins (available from by Rachelle) as they are very fine and will not leave noticeable holes in the fabric. You can make the folds more permanent by spraying a small amount of unscented hair spray, or other stiffening product of your choice, over the folds and letting the fabric dry again.
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f you are dressing a doll, fold the nightgown around the doll and over the bust so that the seam is up the center back. Glue or sew it closed. (If making the garment by itself, you should close the back seam at this time as well.)
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race the sleeve pattern on the unwaxed side of freezer paper. Cut out and turn the pattern over to trace a second sleeve.
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sing a warm iron, lightly iron the freezer paper patterns onto a piece of cotton gauze. Keep the iron fairly cool and don’t press hard with the iron. You want the wax/plastic on the paper to gently adhere to the fabric; not to saturate it.
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o download pdf Sleeve Pattern visit the autor’s blog.
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ut out the sleeves by cutting the fabric around the edge of the paper pattern. The freezer paper will keep the gauze stiff, which will make it much easier to cut accurately.
Peel the cut sleeves from the paper. It will easily pull away. Seal all edges by running a very fine line of glue all the way around. Allow to dry thoroughly.
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old each sleeve right sides together and close underarm seams by gluing or sewing. Press.
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ull the threads at the top of the sleeve so that the armhole opening, when laid flat, measures one half inch. Tie the threads to keep in place. If you are dressing a doll, slip a sleeve on the doll’s arm and pull up gathers to fit at the shoulder.
lue a piece of lace along the bottom edge of each sleeve.
ew a row of running stitches along the top edge of each sleeve, leaving a tail of thread to pull later. Sew another row of running stitches at the top of the lace trim where it joins the sleeve fabric (going through both layers of fabric). Leave a tail to gather.
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Insert a pencil or small dowel into the sleeve and draw up the gathers in the bottom of the sleeve to fit the pencil (or if dressing a doll. gather to fit the doll's arm size).
Slipstitch or glue the underarm portion of the sleeve to the body of the nightgown. Attach as neatly as possible.
Repeat above steps for the second sleeve.
Cut two 1 Ÿ� pieces of braid or other trimming for the shoulders. Neatly seal the cut edges with glue to keep it from unravelling. Starting at the first (top) gather on the bodice, glue or sew the trimming up along the raw edge of the sleeve.
Continue over the top of the shoulder and down to the first gather on the back of the gown. Repeat for the second sleeve. Make two tiny bows with 2mm silk ribbon. Cut short, angled tails and attach one bow over each of the the front raw edges of the shoulder trimming. Your nightgown is ready to hang on a hanger or display in a miniature setting.
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ARTESANA INVITADA Un ángel marchoso pone su cabeza en un cojín. Otros de rubor cansado, e n c e n d i e r o n u n c a n d i l. (Federico García Lorca)
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PodĂŠis ofrecer vuestros tutoriales / paso a paso (un mĂnimo de 8 fotos) en el formulario de contacto del blog de la revista nrevista.blogspot.com 72
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