Magasin Åre English Edition 2019 by Magasin Åre

ENGLISH

EDITION 2019

Touring Adventures Food & drinks Sights Tips & more...

HIKING

In and around the Ã&#x2026;re valley

Skiing

On piste, off piste, cross country

Biking

All the best trails, longer or shorter

The village

G Ö S TA F R I E S

FREDRIK BOBERG JOHN CR AWFORD - CURRIE M AT T I S L I N D QV I S T RIKARD WESTLING CONTRIBUTING WRITERS LESLIE ANTHONY PERNILLA HAMMAR ROGNØY TOVE LILJEQUIST JESPER RÖNNBÄCK JÖRGEN VIKSTRÖM JOHAN WEIMER HÅKAN WIKE CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS ANETTE ANDERSSON NICKLAS BLOM D E N N Y C A LV O M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N G Ö S TA F R I E S JAMES HOLM JONAS KULLMAN M AT S L I N D ERIK OLSSON OLA ROCKBERG NILS THOMASSON N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L ERIK WESTBERG HÅKAN WIKE

Magasin Åre English Edition 2019 is the result of a cooperation between Magasin Åre Publishing AB and Åre Destination AB. Magasin Åre is an independent product, published by Magasin Åre Publishing AB. Magasin Åre is a registered trademark. Opinions presented by individual writers may not necessarily correspond to those of the editors. Even our own opinions may differ from the editors’. We assume no responsibility for unsolicited material. E D ITO R I A L CO NTAC T Magasin Åre box 28 837 23 Åre – Sweden + 46 647 135 40 info@magasinare.com W W W. M AG A S I N A R E .C O M

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EDITOR’S LETTER C O V E R P H OTO N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

Authentic. WE KNOW WHAT YOU’RE THINKING: Oh boy, that latest tourism buzzword again — cue the list of impossible attributes and earnest explanations of how nothing has changed and character still rules the roost. Don’t worry, we won’t. That’s not us. We’re a northern town and pretence doesn’t fly around here. Besides, if you have to explain why a place is “authentic” you’ve already lost the plot. By definition, authenticity is self-explanatory, obvious, heartfelt. Whether Åre does or doesn’t fit that bill is not for us to say. Rather, it’s something we feel in our souls, so deeply that the notion to preserve it doesn’t even occur to us. That might tell you something. So, no hard sell, no marketing mumbo jumbo. The only way to decide for yourself is to visit. Come by and hang out for a while. Live the way we do; we think you’ll like it. That might not be the way to sell a place, but at least it feels... well... what’s that word again? — LESLIE ANTHONY

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ERIK WESTBERG

WELCOME TO ÅRE | CONTENTS

ANETTE ANDERSSON

G Ö S TA F R I E S

ALPINE SKIING MAINLY WHAT WINTER IN ÅRE IS ALL ABOUT / ON AND OFF PISTE GUIDE

36 HIKING THE BEST IN SCANDINAVIA / SCENIC ROUTES JUST AROUND THE CORNER

18 XC SKIING & NORDIC SKI TOURING / AMAZING VIEWS IN AND AROUND ÅRE —

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52 FOOD & DRINKS INSPIRED FAST-FOOD & TWO-STAR EXPERIENCE / CRAFT BEER / FIKA

M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N

58 SHOPPING DESIGNER BRANDS / LOCAL SPECIALITIES / HANDICRAFTS AND JEWELRY

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BIKING ACTION-PACKED SUMMER ACTIVITY / DOWNHILL BIKING & XC BIKING —

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INTRO | DON’T MISS OUT ON THE MOST BEAUTIFUL (?) SEASON

Fall for autumn If you live in the northern hemisphere, you have a soft spot for autumn.

THIS GLORIOUS PAUSE BETWEEN SEASONS — when longer, colder nights draw summer’s vibrant green into a biochemical ballet of red, orange, and yellow — always sparks the imagination. Paddling a lake or hiking in the forest, new smells and new colours claw at your senses. When it’s sunny, the day is electric; but even if the sky is grey, fall still offers a pretty good wallpaper. We enjoy this show of pigments while we can because we know that once those leaves clamour to the ground, everything will fade to white.

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ANETTE ANDERSSON

SKIING | OFF-PISTE

OFF PISTE

The town, the atmosphere, the people, the nightlife; the list of assets that distinguish Åre from other ski resorts is extensive. But the feature that really raises the level is Mount Åreskutan — the peak which, in a very un-Swedish way, towers 1,000 metres above the small town. Here is the mythical “Baksidan”, one of Scandinavia’s largest and best off piste areas. P H OTO M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N

THERE ARE MOUNTAINS, and there are mountains — and then there are the “fjälls” of Scandinavia. Mount Åreskutan belongs in the latter category; a mighty chunk of rock standing as a landmark on the West Jämtland horizon since time immemorial. Not clean-cut and chiselled like the Alps, but definitely taller, harsher and more undulating than the gently rounded hills in other parts of Europe. Åreskutan, in fact, is best described as angular and round, soft and hard, forgiving and unsparing all in the same moment. FROM ÅRE SQUARE it’s a thousand vertical metres to the summit. This isn’t comparable to the tallest peaks in the Alps, of course, but a thousand vertical metres for off piste ski-

ing is more than enough for even the world’s best skiers. For better or worse, Åreskutan also lacks the glaciers, crevices and dangerous couloirs of taller massifs, meaning that the off piste skiing here is relatively safe despite the impressive vertical drop. NUMBERS DON’T make a ski resort, of course, but they certainly give some indication of the chances for good skiing. And in this case, theory matches reality. Åreskutan offers one of Scandinavia’s largest and most easily accessed off piste areas. Here, on the north-eastern section of Mount Åreskutan lies the wide, unexploited terrain of Baksidan — Swedish for ’The Backside” — one of the most famous and mythical runs in the country.

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SKIING | OFF-PISTE

Sometimes snow will lie deep on the summit though not a single flake has reached the town. THERE ARE PLENTY of off piste areas in other ski resorts around the world that are better, larger, longer and more snowsure than Baksidan. But since Åre is Scandinavia’s best ski resort, there isn’t much that compares with Baksidan — an area large, long, and sufficiently steep enough to offer real challenge. And easy enough to reach that anyone can get there without major effort. THIS LAST FEATURE can be a potential problem for the unwary. Like any off piste area, it’s dangerous enough out there that a mistake in the wrong place may lead to serious consequences. Unless you have full control of your skiing and equipment, as well as good knowledge of backcountry travel, avalanches and avalanche rescue, you’ll be out of your depth in Baksidan and shouldn’t venture out there on your own. Which isn’t to say it is completely out of reach to the inexperienced: simply contact one of the excellent ski guides in the area for a safe tour. IT ISN’T NECESSARY (nor even desirable) to wait for a day following a snowfall to make conditions in Baksidan good. What goes on out there — an entirely different world 1,000 metres above the valley — is extremely difficult to predict. Weather conditions that may have dropped 30 cm of loose powder across the pistes on the other side of the mountain may have blown in hard on Baksidan, packing into shimmering snowscapes of rock-hard crust. Sometimes

snow will lie deep on the summit though not a single flake has reached the town. When the thermometer shows -20°C at the square, the temperature on the summit during an “inversion” might be an astounding +5°C. And, more often of course, vice versa. ONE THING you can predict is that over the course of any winter, the weather on Åreskutan will cover the full spectrum from blasting hurricanes to basking spring sun. Though where and when is anyone’s guess, at least this is certain: to stroll the short bit from the top of the lifts to the summit with skis on your shoulder, then make a long, delightful run in Baksidan and on down to the town via Lillskutan or Östra Ravinen, is an optimal ski experience. Aesthetics, physical exertion, concentration and adrenaline all come in one practical package in Sweden’s largest and most easily reached off piste area.

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OPTIMAL OFF PISTE

BAKSIDAN The clas-

sic off piste run on Mt Åreskutan. There are several runs to choose from. Stay eastbound from the summit and make sure not to ski to the very bottom. Instead, stay high southbound across Lillskutan and Hällfjället. Continue down to the top station of the Tottliften and back to town. VÄSTERSKUTAN The chunk of rock hovering above you as you’re getting in line for Tväråvalvsliften. Observing the rock-clad slope, dedicate a thought to the Duved ski patroller who, during the 1980s ran the piste in a kayak. We seem to remember it as a painful experience. Skiing here is good and well worth the effort. Wait for the right weather and ask someone reliable for the right route. ÖSTRA RAVINEN Some twenty years ago, this was a radical run; today, just hours after a snowfall it will be transformed into a mogul area. So be there early but take it easy and choose the drop-in carefully; there are various degrees of difficulty. The run concludes with a lactic-acid inspiring run down the Susabäcksravinen to Fjällgården. SVARTBERGET Don’t even think about entering this area before you’ve had a good, long talk to someone in the ski patrol. In the right conditions it’s a great run, taking the long steep slopes down Västra Ravinen in big, wide turns. In the wrong conditions it’s avalanche-prone and/or extremely dangerous. The entire slope is skiable but the run gets longer and steeper the further out you go along the ridge.

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SKIING | OFF-PISTE M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N

The eastern ravine Or as we call it — Östra Ravin — is undoubtedly Sweden’s most legendary off piste run.

IT’S NOT BECAUSE it’s the best or most spectacular run in Sweden. While, under the right circumstances, the Östra Ravin provides for a prime off piste run it’s neither powder orgies or wildly ticking altimeters for which the tiny crevasse between Musberget and Lillskutan has become legendary. The fame of Östra Ravinen stems from its indisputable status as the foremost test of manhood in all of Swedish freeriding. Along the western ridge of the ravine runs a long majestic cornice. As the season proceeds, the cornice grows bigger and bigger, nourished by snowfalls and Atlantic winds. As we move into April it’s grown so big as to accommodate a minor sports hall underneath. Further up in the ravine, the cornice is transformed into prickly bands of rock, interspersed with icy strings of snow. Below the cornice and the rocks opens a long, flat field of snow producing an almost perfect landing spot for airborne extreme skiers. Here are features for all skill levels, from novice to international pro — all concentrated into a spectator-friendly hub in the middle of the ski area. Behind the genial design is millions of years worth of weather, continental glaciation, and the stubborn efforts of a solitary brook.

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AVALANCHE

DANGER

ASK: Avalanche danger is omnipresent and you should always consult with lift personnel, other skiers, and most importantly, ski patrol familiar with recent weather and conditions. RESPECT: The avalanche-risk scale indicates the level of risk and even level three (on a scale of five) means a substantial risk. Listen to people in the know and respect the boundary ropes. They’re not there for appearances. COMPANY: In case you ski on your own and are pulled into an avalanche, no one will be missing you until it’s too late. Make sure there are at least two of you, preferably more, when off piste skiing. CHECK: Learn where, how and when avalanches develop so that you can avoid them. A rapid change in temperature its an alarm clock. THINK: The fact that someone else has just skied the area before you doesn’t imply that it’s safe. Choose less-exposed areas like forest runs and shallower slopes. Turn back if you experience bad vibes. RESPONSIBILITY: Never tempt inexperienced skiers to go off piste. Children are just as happy on the pistes. EQUIPMENT: Never go off piste without the avalanche safety equipment: transceiver (a radio transmitter/receiver enabling you to both search and be found), shovel, probe, cellphone (make sure you know what number to dial if something happens) and first-aid kit. Recco reflectors are also recommended as this is the system the ski patrol uses. Learn more at Åre Lavincenter arel avincenter . se

IF THERE IS AN AVALANCHE

Call 112 at the slightest suspicion

that people may have been in the avalanche area. If you are absolutely sure that no people are affected: call 0647-130 91 and inform the ski patrol about the situation.

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SKIING | ON PISTE EMRIK JANSSON

The 1000 meter slope. 1000 meters a.s.l. A classic piste, at the very top of Mt. Åreskutan, with scenic views over the valley. Steap at first but levels out half way down in a flowing and easy carving-friendly slope. More piste favourites on the next page.

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Carvers’ paradise

Red or blue? Well, we are not talking politics but something of much higher importance: Skiing, managing the perfect carving turn. The eastern part of Åre now presents some of the greatest carving pistes in northern Europe, red-blue beauties, wide and varied, capable of satisfying even the most discerning carving aficionados. STEEP? No, not at all but rolling and gentle, wide and, white. This is a description of Västra Björnen, Åre’s hottest part of the ski area if you like a bit of inspirational carving. The optimal carving setting has been created here, featuring almost unreasonably wide pistes. The width and the gentle gradient trigger the carving technique in both novices and experts: Tuck, skis apart, add pressure and feel the sensation as the skis dig into the corduroy piste. The speed picks up, the belly butterflies intensify, and the skis dig even deeper and better.

another while. The runs seem endless and once at the finish, just catch the speed lifts back up again. For another run, and then another. In Västra Björnen the designer has made optimal use of the natural resources to create a varied and inspirational skiing environment, thus inviting a great number of runs. The new pistes are attractively embedded in wonderful forest setting among knotty, windswept birch trees and ancient, giant spruce. And up above, mighty magnificent Mount Åreskutan towers aloft, treeless, reaching towards the sky, with many more pistes to explore and enjoy.

YOU WANT THIS to go on forever and it will continue for yet

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THE ÅRE VALLEY is extremely snowsure. The entire area is serviced by a state-of-the-art snow-making system with the new generation energy saving snow cannons. The system is fully automatic and the snow is spread using low-energy snow-gun towers. The capacity runs to 400 cubic metres per hour, corresponding to 33 ISO-class freight containers supplied in one hour. That’s what we call a proper snow dump and on request.

SKIING | ON PISTE

PERFECT CARVING PISTES

GÄSTRAPPET The best of Åre’s runs, with just the right gradient and not too short. To get the most out of it in corduroy conditions, make sure to get there first thing in the morning or early for night skiing. It can be done at maximum speed, but remember to watch out at the crossings and keep an eye out for fellow racers. LUNDSRAPPET This piste runs parallel to the VM8 lift. It starts with a very steep section — a fall here would see you glide far before

coming to a stop — before the run continues less steeply towards the WSC-arena. The piste is wide and floodlit for classic night skiing on freshly groomed corduroy. STENDALEN This short piste served by a T-bar may run a bit off-camber, but it’s still adored. There’s something special that attracts local piste riders to Stendalen, an ideal place to test your new carving skis. SADELBACKARNA On the north side of Högåsliften there are some fine, freshly

ANETTE ANDERSSON —

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expanded pistes with ideal gradients and few crowds. Take a run here in the morning sun. TOTTBACKEN A long and relatively wide forest run with a good gradient, it runs across terraces alternating between steep and less so. DUVED/TEGEFJÄLL Don’t forget these gems. Just take the ski bus shuttle! Not too crowded, and very child friendly. Wide (Duved anyway), rolling slopes with perfect carv gradient. The effective chairlift in Duved makes it easy to get lap-counts. Great night skiing.

N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

Thanks to the world class lighting system, VM8:an opens at 8.00 a.m every day. Corduroy mornings are the best mornings.

Bright idea

There’s no doubt that Åre is the world’s best ski resort at night. Nowhere on earth is there greater, brighter and more pleasant night skiing. THERE ARE FEW things that are as much fun as the first evenings of night skiing in Hamrebacken, near Duved. These nights are already possible by late November, and almost always occur on the St. Lucia weekend. During this traditional festival of lights you can opt for round-theclock skiing in Åre. Gästrappet sparkles bright as a diamond while mid-winter darkness settles across the area. With a free “lussebulle” saffron bun and a cup of “glögg” mulled wine in the on-slope restaurant Svartberget Café & Restaurang, you’ll soon be warm again and ready for a few extra hours of skiing. You may need the re-

freshment since the early part of the season usually brings cold nights. The dress code of the night shift is well thought out and functional. The ultimate outfit keeps you warm on the way up without sweating while working your way down. Think light yellow goggles, not mirror lens. Rumour has it that the floodlighting system in Gästrappet is so bright that it can be seen from the moon. During the fis Alpine World Ski Championships 2007, several of the technical disciplines were staged here as night races. You might want to stick to piste skis up until the softer snow conditions of springtime.

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Only a rare few get away with a pair of real fat skis in the lift queue on a fast and firm night in January. (These are either sponsored skiers, people who want you to think they’re sponsored skiers, or simply residents of Åre). FIGHTING TO BE at the head of the queue a half hour before night-skiing starts at 6 p.m. is all well and good, but it’s usually better to leave the real keeners to run ahead while you pick your way through the wave of skiers to some snow that you can keep somewhat more to yourself. It’s all about speed: At this time of day, everyone is

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king of the hill. There are few occasions when you’re a better skier than at night; the piste is freshly groomed and you can see every single detail in the snow. The night shift always brings freshly groomed snow where every line in the corduroy points straight down the fall line. The piste is one long corridor of light which ends at the base station of the lift. Surrounding you is sheer darkness. You and your mates look like flashes on the slopes. Happy. Liberated.

SKIING | CROSS COUNTRY G Ö S TA F R I E S

Cross-county trails Whether along valleys, through quiet woods, or over the fjälls,

gliding on a well-groomed ski trail is a special experience. Åre’s many cross-country trails offer something for everyone — whether kids, first-timers, skiers who enjoy a relaxed tour, or those looking for a great training lap. The trails and tracks in Åre Björnen offer snow-safe cross-country skiing in sheltered forest terrain and are generally less hilly than the longer tracks in Duved. Of course, it’s also possible to combine any of the loops into your create your own creative variation. Lit each night until 10 p.m., parking is just after Årebjörnen Skidcenter, where the tracks start. Trail info and maps at www.aretrails.com —

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N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

WAFFLE HUTS LILLÅSTUGAN

Åre’s closest waffle experience can be found in Lillåstugan, which is a mere two kilometres from Ullådalen’s parking lot. The easy trip out makes it a perfect experience — even with young children. VITA RENEN

The celebrated restaurant “White Reindeer” — located on Renfjället above Edsåsdalen’s lift system. In addition to dinner, it will also serve waffles and lunch food throughout the winter.

YTTERSTVALLENS FÄBOD

Take a ski trip to an old pasturing hut, located 4.5 kilometres from Trillevallen, six kilometres from Ottsjö, and eight kilometres from Edsåsdalen (after going over Grofjället). Open from February to Easter. Fantastic waffles in an unplugged, off-grid environment.

MINUTES FROM ÅRE TOWN SQUARE

Ullådalen — a serene oasis and Sweden’s nearest wilderness area.

FRÖÅ MINE

THIS IS THE VALLEY of the Norse ski god, Ullr, with the crystal clear river (in Swedish ‘å’) bubbling underneath the snow; hence the name Ull-å-dalen. Ullådalen is vast enough to offer a genuine wilderness feeling — even for those who have visited remote Rapadalen in Sarek, way up in northern Sweden. Still sufficiently small to feel safe, even for beginners whose only experience

Park your car in Årebjörnen and ski the beautiful 10-kilometre track at Fröå Gruva. After five kilometres, take a left to Fröå mine and take a break with a waffle in Bergstugan. It’s also possible to park at Fröå and ski in from there. Oh, yes — they are open in the summer; take a hike (the ski track f.i.) or explore the the old mining area, before lunch. Waffles are just as good in the summer!

of mountaineering is confused nocturnal rambles between the Club Bygget and Åre town square. Located between the imposing peaks of Åreskutan and Mullfjället with the Skäckerfjällen massif on the horizon, Ullådalen is a giant in its own right, though a rather timid one: no sharp formations and no brutal, alpine aesthetics; only a soft, undulating, white Eldorado for ordinary

folks hoping to relish its pristine nature. Ski-touring or cross-country skiing? Pack a picnic or enjoy delightful waffles in Bergstugan? Three-day bivouac tour or half an hour of skating on refrozen crutrail just before après-ski? Whichever you choose, it works in Ullådalen, ten minutes by car from the busy center in Sweden’s greatest ski resort.

DIY WAFFLES

Craving a waffle but perhaps not the effort required to get to a waffle hut? The easiest solution is to buy some waffle mix and do it yourself. The basic taste and texture are all right, but `les connoisseurs´ may want to use Vichy water and more cream in their mix. The basics for classic waffles (7–9 fills of the waffle-iron) 3 dl of wheat flour 2 dl cold water or Vichy water 3 dl cream Whisk the flour and water until smooth. Melt margarine or butter into the batter (save some butter for the

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waffle iron). Beat the cream thick and mix in as well. Make sure the waffle iron is hot before pouring in the batter. Place approximately 1 dl of batter into the iron at a time. Cook 2–3 minutes. Serve immediately with your favourite toppings!

SKIING | SKI-TOURING N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

Alpine ski-touring There’s something infinitely more satisfying about making turns

down something you’ve climbed up yourself. And that’s why skitouring — where skins are attached to the skis for better traction on ice and snow, then taken off at the top — is currently the biggest growth sector in winter outdoor recreation. Naturally, earning your turns is popular in and around Åre these days, with Snasahögarna, Sylarna and Åreskutan representing just a few of the dozens of possibilities. —

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MINUTES FROM ÅRE TOWN SQUARE

Sylarna is probably one of the best known Swedish massifs, although the actual summit lies in Norwegian territory.

THE QUICK AND EASY ACCESS with a mere 16 km of gently sloping marked trail from Storulvån means that this area is one of the most visited in the Swedish mountains. Climbing the Syltraversen Ridge in good conditions entails no major difficulties, but because it’s an alpine environment, weather and wind that may swiftly change the situation must never be neglected. Guide recommended. Irrespective of conditions, the equipment should always include crampons, ice-axes, ropes and anchors for snow, ice and rock. The easiest way to start the climb is from the right-hand side of Templet, moving up towards Tempel Ridge and following it to the first pinnacle. The last bit to the top of

the pinnacle is where most climbers strap in for the first time. From the top, what remains is a brief abseil down to another two pinnacles and an unaided — but easy — walk to the Djävulskammen (The Devil’s Ridge) which will take you up to Sylhammaren. From here there’s another tricky part where the climbing is easiest at the far edge of the Sylväggen face and the precipice down towards the glacier. Once you’ve arrived at the 1,762-metre summit, the views are spectacular. In good weather all the peaks — Åreskutan, Helags, Bunnerfjällen, and the trio Getryggen, Tväråklumpen and Storsnasen — are easily within sight.

THE JÄMTLAND TRIANGLE One of the winter gems of the region is the so-called “Jämtland Triangle,” an almost fifty-kilometre ski tour between the mountain stations of Storulvån, Sylarna and Blåhammaren. The outstanding feature of this trip is that most of it takes place above tree line. Only at Storulvån does the trail duck briefly through the mountain birch forest. Given the exposed alpine trails, expect tough going when conditions include heavy wind and precipitation. Speaking of precipitation, snowstorms aren’t uncommon in these areas, so best to bring along extra garments in your pack. The scenery is first-class and the mountain stations provide comfortable accommodations: Sylstationen has a well-stocked service shop and a new restaurant, as well as a sauna; Blåhammaren features good food served in a cozy restaurant; and Storulvån boasts a restaurant and self-catering facilities. SVENSKATURISTFORENINGEN.SE RIK ARD WESTLING

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SKIING | FREESTYLE JAMES HOLM

Yes, snowboarders are also welcome.

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Park life

The Park is the new heart of the ski resort. No other place within so few square metres is so imbued with the joy of skiing. No venue matters as much as this. “WHAT’S THE PARK LIKE?” This is the first question Kalle, aged 14 was asked by his mates upon his return from the mountain holiday. Were the jumps kicky enough? Were the landings steep enough? Was the distance between the box and the dance floor alright? The terms above are park terminology and do not relate to the distance between the VIP room and the nightclub. Readers who failed to understand should not be discouraged, we can hardly catch up ourselves. No worries though: as long as we understand how highly essential Kalle and his mates are for the future of alpine skiing we don’t have to grasp everything. Instead we join the spectators up on the transport route leading to Rödkullen. From here we can oversee the show in Åre Snow Park from ringside. We have a perfect view over the mighty quartet of launching platforms which constitute the black line. The first jump necessitates an air passage of some 20 metres simply to clear the plateau.

The impressive dimensions of the jumps mean that the riders have plenty of time in the air; rotations of 360, 540 or 720 degrees take time and are easy to make out even for an untrained eye. The best riders are in total control in the air. Some of them leave the kick in the middle of a carving turn and drift several metres sideways before landing cat-like just where the lower part starts to slope downhill. The sight is athletic, expressive and flippant, all at the same time. The riders simply call it style. We, the spectators find that it makes your hair stand on end in its attraction, spectacular – and actually, believe it or not, very understandable. Sometimes it is hard even for an experienced spectator to grasp what is actually happening in the air. It doesn’t matter though; we don’t have to understand everything. The main thing is that we understand that the park has become the heart of the ski resort. This is the place where the most

important things happen. This is the venue where new skiing evolves. No place else on the mountain, within such a limited space, is so imbued with joy of skiing. No other part of the ski area demonstrates this much creativity. Admittedly every single angle may be designed with the help of a protractor, every transition shaped with loving care and every rail kinked for a reason. But what purpose serves a piano and a capsized rowing boat in the so-called wood line? Who on earth has transported these great big things all this way up on the hill? Would not these innocent old objects have been more worthy of a dignified ending in a messy old barn near Ånn – rather than suffer being slided upon and bonked to death by fun-loving hooligans? Why? We ask. Why? Why not? Comes the answer from somewhere behind the giant snow formations in Åre Snow Park.

ROCKSTAR HENRIK HARLAUT, BORN IN OUR PARK Henrik Harlaut is the mega star with several X-Games gold medals (and more) at home who has not for a second forgotten where he is from. He is, the star status aside, as much grass roots as he was before the sponsor checks began to roll in — of course from carefully chosen partners who are loyal to the true essence and ideals of the sport. Both ride and style ideals that Henrik himself has been creating from scratch. The truth is that only a few Swedish skiers throughout the freestyle history have been as influential as young Mr. Harlaut from Ullån, Åre. If you’re lucky you can run in to him shredding in the park. But most likely he is filming in the States, or winning some competition in China...

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ALPINE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS | 1954 | 2007 | 2019

Trifecta

Hosting an Alpine World Championship is a great honour — hosting three a crowning achievement. Åre's very own Sarah Thomasson placed third in slalom.

NILS THOMASSON

The star of -54, Stein Eriksen.

World Championship #1

1954 28 FEBRUARY it will be exactly 65 years since the opening fanfare of the 1954 FIS Alpine World Ski Chamionships echoed through the Åre valley. The well-organized competition proved extremely popular with locals and still ranks as one of the biggest sporting events in Åre’s storied history. During Ingemar Stenmark’s unforgettable streak as a World Cup icon in the 1970s, FIS races in Åre attracted huge crowds, but already in 1954, the number of ticket-buying enthusiasts exceeded 20,000 — with as many watching

the races from sunny hillsides out of reach of ticket vendors. Although the Swedes had yet to field any stars of Stenmark’s calibre in those days, Stig “Solla” Sollander from Östersund did a good job of defending the country’s honour with a 7th place in slalom, a 7th in giant slalom, and a 9th in the downhill (after which he famously remarked “I could have skied faster, but I have a wife and kids at home...”). It was enough for a 3rd overall and the bronze medal in alpine combined. Among the ladies, local Sarah Thomasson showed best with a 3rd place in slalom. The star of the 1954 World Champions-

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hips was Norwegian Stein Eriksen, who had previously wowed the ski world at the 1952 Oslo Winter Olympic Games. With victories in both special and giant slaloms in Åre, and an 8th place in the downhill — despite a crash — he topped the men’s results list, handing him the alpine combined. With three gold medals, the chiseled looks of an American movie star, and a considerable share of a shipping fortune in his back pocket, he would be a ladies favorite for many years to come. In Deer Valley, the Utah ski resort where he lived until his death in 2015, he’s still considered royalty.

World Championship #2

2007 MUCH HAS HAPPENED since Åre last hosted the Alpine World Championships in 1954. 24 nations and 20,000 ticket buyers gathered in -54. The World Championship 2007 expected to attract 60 nations and 100,000 spectators. Who mentioned the word festivity? On the third of February, the world was gazing this way, which was now mentioned with the same reverence as legendary ski resorts such as Cortina, St. Moritz and Kitzbühel. The ambition was, of course, to secure Åre's place at the absolute peak among organizers and create the biggest and most pioneering winter sports event ever. And the organizer flexed their muscles. Listen to this: 190 million SEK was spent in the new arena and the festival was crowned by an impressive lineup of Scandinavian and international artists, talkshows broadcasted on television, exhibitions and events. Anja Pärsson killed it with 1 bronze och 3 (!) gold medals. Also worth mentioning is Maria Pietilä-Holmners silver in giant slalom and Patrik Järbyn wrapping up his career with a third place in the mens' downhill.

Queen Anja. The new arena was completed for the competitions in 2007.

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ALPINE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS | 1954 | 2007 | 2019

2019 The village will host the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships, and Åre smells victory.

4-17 FEB

Our infrastructure and finish area is top class. To our advantage we recently organised a successful WSC. “We have refined the concept from 2007 and plan to go from good to great”

World Championship #3

says Niklas Carlsson, CEO at ÅRE2019. Other advantages are the familiar atmosphere of the village, the proximity of everything and the glorious party life. “The latter is something that is not at least appreciated by the team leaders”, Niklas

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points out. He promises Åre will offer the ultimate ski party of the highest international level. Åre has also long been a favourite location among the athletes. Besides the proximity to everything, our real winters are highly appreciated. Many

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are tired of travelling through slush in green valleys in the Alps. Åre has real winters with snow and cold weather. “A world ski championships needs such a setting, the whole sport will benefit from it”, says Niklas.

SPRING TIME | THE LIFTS ARE CLOSED BUT THE SKIING IS STILL GREAT N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

The fifth season

Summer is coming. But first, the best kept secret of the north northern hemisphere; “the fifth season”. EVERYONE LOOKS FORWARD TO SUMMER, but here in Åre we’re happy to take our time getting there. That’s why the “Fifth Season” is our best-kept secret. It isn’t something we hide—in fact it’s sandwiched right there between winter and spring. But it does only happen in the mountains, and last longer in the north. It’s a hard-to-describe hybrid—winter up high, summer down low, softer snow, longer days. A great time for ski touring in warm temperatures and good visibility. In fact, you can ski in the morning and, maybe later, paddle on the lake or ride your bike. Sounds great, right? Just don’t tell anyone...

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BIKING | DOWNHILL

GLUTtONY

TWO WHEeLS

BARREN ROCKS, WOODY FOREST TRAILS AND CRAZY DROPS; BIKING ON MT ÅRESKUTAN IS PHENOMENAL IN ITS VARIATIONS. WE OPENED OUR GREEDY SENSES AND SET OFF ON A DEGUSTATION FROM THE TOP TO THE BOTTOM.

BIKING IN ÅRE has emerged over decades of curiosity, a surge for adrenaline, adventures. Already in the 1980s someone dragged a prehistoric mountain bike into the cable car and planted the seed to what it is today – one of the world’s best biking resorts. The identity of this pioneer is not verifiable but there are many who would like to claim this highly desirable title. At the time there were only hiking paths down from the peak and the combination of rocks, vegetation and minimal (if any) suspension must have made the ride downhill anything but comfortable. During the 90s, as biking was growing in popularity, construction started of the 1,000-metre trail. Since then many other paths and trails have been added but this one still attracts. It has a unique, stubborn character yet to find elsewhere in the world. The same goes for the rest of Åre’s upper zone which is dominated by flat barren rocks. RIDING A BIKE on narrow paths is strangely enough one of the most relaxing pastimes there are. You must focus entirely on the trail in front of you otherwise disaster will set in, for sure, this invites an extreme sensation of living in the present; things you can not affect right now are postponed indefinitely. The trail dictates your status, your route forward. The narrow perspective harbours endless opportunities. Plan ahead, one decimetre’s difference may determine

whether you come out of a curve with retained speed, or you come to a dead stop. The paths, the single tracks, constitute the soul of Åreskutan. Designed by years of wear and tear by shoe soles and bike tyres, by hands loaded with hammers and saws stubbornly shaping the ground and the terrain, a path has eventually evolved. But present day pedalling needs something else. A more organised adventure, all in accordance with our modern aspects of nature as something we have designed and that we control; a ride without roots and deep mud where the handiwork has been taken over by machines doing the digging. ÅRE HAS ALWAYS BEEN populated by people with an open mind for far reaching ideas. Minds ready to adopt the best there is out there in other parts of the world, to import it and adjust it to homeground. Hence, when rumours reached the bikers in Åre of this crazy track in Canadian Whistler, the A-Line, it was a given that one would be built on Mt Åreskutan; undisputable. Soon enough the excavators were on site creating banked curves and high jumps. The result was Flinbanan — the Grin Course — named so since it produces wide grins on the bikers’ faces. This is Åre Bike Park’s main and most ridden path. A few years later the machines were back on the mountain. The aim set even

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higher, with a generous budget from an important sponsor — and the result was the three kilometre Shimano trail from the WC-trail down to the base station of the VM6 lift. Well stocked with banked curves and jumps of a size that one of them has been named Matterhorn, clearly marked with a hand-painted wooden sign on a tree nearby, the trail offers a five minute high speed ride with all your senses at their most attentive. Seven kilometres of biking down Mt Åreskutan has now come to an end; three completely diverse environments have been negotiated at good speed: flat rocks, paths and machine-built trails. A trilogy of disperse characters and attitudes; a buffet of the best biking available, ready to be consumed separately or, at best, in combination. The feast is however not over at the base station of the cable car, it is just a transfer post en route to the next treat. On the other side of the mountain await the rocks on Hällrajd, the high speed cruising in Hjulingen, and the magic, enchanting Bräckebäcksleden trail. Bicycling that entrances, seduces, builds addiction; bicycling for a lifetime. And there are still people who claim that Åre is best in the winter – how wrong they are... Read more at aresweden.com

M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N

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BIKING | DOWNHILL

M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N

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M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N

S TA R T R A CK S

Trail from the top station of the cable car ‘Kabin berg’ all the way down to Hummelstugan. An intermediate path of the very first rate – world class; almost exactly five kilometres of downhill biking at its best; a flow ride with banked curves across the barren beauty of the peak.

Åre Bike Park’s most mind-expanding trail is also the least fixed and facilitated. This is a rollercoaster across rough rocks in the upper zone. The fact is that there is no longer a single metre of soil. It is completely lethal on rainy days but so wonderful every other day; raw, brutal and simply delightful – a timeless classic.

Åreskutan’s most bewildering and adrenaline-provoking biking trail. This is a machine built jump path with 50 or so jumps and 20 or more fat banked curves. Release the brakes and any restraints and prepare yourself to spend more time in the air than on the ground, all of the 3,300 metres down the track.

EASY RIDER

HÄLLRAJD

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SHIMANO

BIKING | CROSS COUNTRY

HOLY TRINITY

There are many sides to mountain weather — not all of them so easy to handle. But when you combine summer temperatures, biking and fells, Jämtlandstriangeln offers world-class trail biking and a nature experience to nurture your soul for a long time. SUDDENLY EVERYTHING TALLIES. I have the wind in my back, going downhill, lovely summer warmth and the joy of riding escalates. I fly ahead with the sun on my back — longing to get home? No, hardly. Not now when each pedal leverages double gear and we race ahead at a pace reminiscent of a 200 horsepower motorbike on full throttle. I never drop the speed unless I want to. It feels as if the bike has been electrified, but better, and not even the best trained high-speed mosquitoes manage to keep up, for that I am grateful. The tyres grip the sand-filled ground of the trail, like a sharp eagle’s talon in some soft prey. Mostly it is enough to relax, follow the ground, and pump up and down to keep up the speed. There are no problems at all riding like the pros and stomp the pedal in the middle of the gently banked curves, before being thrown out of them like a slingball on speed. It feels a bit like riding downhill but the risk level is probably very much lower and the nature experience far greater — at least as long as you avoid spending all your time on the trails in the bike park. Variation is virtually unlimited and in particular this fine trail, with its not too exhausting uphill sections and exciting downhill parts, goes on for miles and miles. Why don’t I do this more often? Why don’t I sacrifice more days in the bike park for this favourite stretch from Gåsån to Storulvån? Well, the perfectly natural explanation is — winter.

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G Ö S TA F R I E S

FROM OCTOBER UNTIL JUNE the mountain slopes here are mainly frequented by ski mountaineering enthusiasts from near (predominantly Åre) and afar (actually even from British Columbia).

Rich levels of precipitation and hard winds rule the area. The snow cover is usually deep. Snowdrifts tend to build up several metres high, stopping the traffic and closing the only access road – still at times in April. Against all odds, it always ends the same way — winter draws a final breath and slowly and reluctantly, the snow starts to thaw. Eventually vegetation starts pushing here at an altitude of 700 metres above sea level where the already ridiculously brief Swedish summer has been reduced to a minimum. However, in cold winters the climate may even be scientifically Arctic, the only necessity is that the average temperature in the warmest month of the year stays below ten degrees — and last year not far from here, summer never materialised. In some parts of western Jämtland the average temperature failed to reach ten degrees above zero for five consecutive days. All of this does not diminish the joy of biking, quite the opposite. The essence derived during the days and hours when the sun and warmth coincided with dry trails — during a large part of the dry-land season the ground is a bit too wet because of the enormous melting of snow — is a delicious treasure ready to be served at any top rate restaurant. Here the sensation comes not at a high price but you need to keep tracking the forecasts and have a pot of luck. It is not a matter of having the latest gear... smartphones, functional garments and weather forecasts; the capricious mountain climate and the awesome natural forces will probably never be tamed, as luck has it. Instead we get to enjoy the thrill of them changing from heaven to hell and back in only a brief space of time.

TRIPS FROM STORULVÅN

MT STORULVÅFJÄLLET A gre-

at summit trip. Follow the trail towards Blåhammaren and turn off to the summit of Mt Storulvåfjället when you have come about 300 metres past the picnic table. The trail meanders towards the summit and may feel exhaustive but the reward is waiting on the way back with the fun downhill biking. The fact is, you can roll on almost all the way back to Storulvån. The trip is about eight kilometres.

ULVÅTJÄRN A 12 kilometre trip.

ULVÅTJÄRN > ENKÄLEN > SYLARNA’S SHELTER > STORULVÅN

Follow the trail towards Blåhammaren to the shelter at Lake Ulvåtjärn. The first three kilometres run uphill in rocky terrain but after that, it levels out and becomes quite a pleasure.

Start like the trip above; continue onwards to Enkälen, the shelter between Blåhammaren and Sylarna. From Enkälen continue to the bridge before Sylarna’s shelter and from there, take the road back to Storulvån. In total this trip is about 36 kilometres. (An alternative from Sylarna’s shelter, go on to the shelter at Gåsån and return via Tjallingen to Storulvån.)

GÅSÅN’S SHELTER A tour of about 30 kilometres on gravel roads and fine trails: After Tjallingen follow the trail towards Gåsen for about 10 kilometres and once arrived at the shelter at Gåsån, you may want to stop for a swim in the current. Something to eat may not come amiss before continuing. If you are filled with energy, you can cross the river (you’ll get wet) and continue on the trail towards Sylarna for another 2 kilometres on fine paths to the mighty roar of the River Storforsen. You can also go all the way to the shelter at Sylarna and pick the northbound road to Storulvån.

BLÅHAMMAREN First make your way to the shelter at Ulvåtjärn and from then onwards to Blåhammaren. The uphill section is demanding and the trail technically tricky but you can always opt to walk. The final three kilometres on the plateau towards Blåhammaren are easily pedalled and fun. After enjoying food and drink at the lodge Blåhammarens Fjällstation (you can also stay overnight) cherish the downhill ride all those verticals back to Storulvån. In all, the trip is about 24 kilometres and in part, advanced.

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BIKING | CROSS COUNTRY

JONAS KULLMAN —

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JONAS KULLMAN

New trails on the block

Brand new and easy access trail biking in Björnen. IT’S WELL KNOWN that Åre is one of the world’s best downhill mountain bike resorts. The lift-assisted biking in Åre Bike Park is of such a class and diversity that few other lift-accessed places on the planet can match it. Conversely, when it comes to cross-country trails where you have to earn vertical through your own pedalling efforts, the destination has yet to reach the same level of hype. Though fabulous biking indeed exists outside the bike park, it has yet to attract anywhere near the same volume of riders. THE BEST TERRAIN is found some distance away from central Åre, and parts of it are quite daunting. Not necessarily in terms of technique, but in its physical demands. Meaning its currently aimed at riders who are in great shape, with a good deal of experience and healthy doses of biking technique in their personal backpacks. Last summer, however, trail-builders started on a brand new project in Björnen with the objective of creating trails aimed

at a wider cross-section of riders — from children and novices all the way up to the more experienced (and discerning) bikers. THE PARTIES BEHIND the venture are Åre Destination — with financial support from the Swedish Ministry of Agriculture and the European Agricultural Fund, a socalled Leader project — together with local land owners. The actual construction was being carried out by Skistar’s experienced trail crew. “The idea was to provide a course for trail biking, something we have been unable to offer in Åre. The first loop that we built was a blue track for the public in general, where anyone can have fun and try new things”, explains Niklas Jacobson of Skistar. The character of the trail is a relatively wide and flat track that makes its way methodically across the undulating terrain, with most roots and rocks removed to allow for easier pedalling. Wet sections have been complemented with bridges and duckboards, and drains provided, to keep

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the trail dry but also to reduce damage to the environment. The blue trail has the addition of a minor loop for children at Vallelandet in Björnen, and also a green loop of about one kilometre in the same area. THE NEW TRAIL is just as suitable for a cross-country bicycles as a sturdy enduro with long-travel suspension. With no problem bringing kids or true beginners along, these new tracks are something that has been sorely missed in Åre; one hopes for more of this kind of venture in the not-toodistant future. More at aresweden.com

HIKING | NEARBY

ANETTE ANDERSSON —

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Take a

HIKE

Go around and acquaint yourself in depth with the fells; the impressions will merge into a great feeling of walking in circles for body and mind alike. THE VIEW WESTBOUND towards Mt Åreskutan, the magnificent one that charms drivers and passengers alike on the E14 where the landscape opens between Såå and Brattland, is for many the very symbol of Åreskutan. The characteristic image includes the dramatic face of Blåsten pointing towards the northeast, an outline not dissimilar to the jut of Mt Lill-Stendalsfjället to the west of Vålådalen towards Stensdalsstugan. Mt Totthummeln is another well-known and typical formation, just like the shape of Mt Åreskutan itself, reminiscent of an upside down boat. From this angle you cannot claim to know Mt Åreskutan. You simply have no idea about the mountain, its size, its beauty. If you want to get to know the mountain you should circle it, on foot. That’s the way to grasp the character of Mt Åreskutan. MT ÅRESKUTAN IS AN excellent mountain to circle. The terrain is gentle and you can opt to follow paths and roads all the way round. The vast space it occupies also contributes to the magnificent experience and it encompasses besides the smaller Totthummeln and dramatic Blåsten also peaks such as Västerskutan, Rödkullen, Tväråvalvet, Mörvikshummeln and several other great elevations of their own individual character.

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SO WHAT CAN YOU look forward to when hiking around Mt Åreskutan? Well, first of all some extensive context. When you cover the distance around a mountain you will experience multiple layers. The impressions of one side of the mountain interact and blend with the impressions of the opposite side. And if you climb further up the slopes a new atmosphere appears. The barren surroundings contribute in pitches that are contrasting to the impression of the forests. It reminds me of the acoustic feedback between the electric guitar’s microphone and the amplifier; a complex combination of brittle and depth. One G complemented by an acoustic feedback becomes a far greater G. THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS to the perfect circle when you are walking round a mountain. Make sure your senses are on edge; forget performance criteria. Sense the nerve cells separating to loosely spun webs promoting sensibility and openness. Look towards the summit and give it the finger before setting off in a great circle to the left or the right in a wide enwrapping movement. You will notice that you are not only circling a mountain but relaxing and embracing your inner self...

HIKING | NEARBY

ANETTE ANDERSSON

Hiking tours in the area SMALL SUMMIT TOUR The small sum-

mit tour is suitable for families or those aiming for a visit to the summit without exerting themselves. Ride the cable car up and from the top station a 800-metre walk will take you to the summit of Mount Åreskutan (trail 214) at an altitude of 1420 metres above sea level. There may remain some patches of snow and hiking shoes or boots are recommended. A coffee in the Toppstugan café is a given!

among tall spruces, rich birch-tree forests, and invites wide views.

INTERMEDIATE SUMMIT TOUR Mount

BIG SUMMIT HIKE A hike to the summit of Mt Åreskutan takes you from the lush valley up into the bare mountain and may last a full day with its one thousand vertical metres (trails 214 or 215). This hike is not technically difficult but necessitates good physical condition. One suggestion is to ride the cable car back down in consideration of your knees. The downhill lift ride is free.

Totthummeln is the characteristic peak rising above Tott Hotell. A hike around the peak (trail 213) leads

More tours, trails and tips at aresweden.com and aretrails.com

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A historic hike From coast to coast

IT IS CALLED “SCANDINAVIA’S EL CAMINO”. It stretches all the way from Selånger just outside Sundsvall in Sweden, through Åre, and ends in Trondheim, Norway. Wandering along the St Olavsleden trail is one of the most beautiful pilgrim experiences that Europe has to offer. In addition to magnificent scenery you will encounter traces of history stretching over a millennium. Look out over the reindeer land from above, in Åre. Take the cable car to the top of Mt Åreskutan and gaze over the views as Olav did himself. The St Olavsleden trail is based on Olav Haraldssons life story. He was born in 995 and devoted his life to Christian beliefs. He was the first Norwegian king who established an administrative system and legal network that held the land together. He also undertook several missionary expeditions to parts of the land that were not yet Christian. Eventually he lost the throne as he failed to convince some of the major decision makers in England. In 1030 he was killed, in Stiklestad, attempting to reconquer Norway. A year after the battle of Stiklestad the bishop pronounced him a holy man with the support of the populace. His death for Christianity was seen as certain proof that he was Gods instrument. He was honoured as an apostle of Norway for completing the long process of Norway’s conversion to Christianity. This unique combination of martyr and apostle of perhaps the foremost reason why Olav gained such a strong and wide following.

Read more at stolavsleden.com

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TRAIL RUNNING | AT MT. ÅRESKUTAN

RUN OUT!

Åre and the surrounding area tempts with a smorgasbord for trail running. Set off from central Åre for a run around Mt. Totthummeln; go to Vålådalen and run the Blanktjärnsrundan; or head to Storlien to test Blomsterstigen and onwards to Skurdalsporten. Towards the end of the summer you can even go on a multi-day hike/run staying overnight in the lodges or cabins in the backcountry. Together these are some of the best outdoor recreation, exercising and therapy experiences available. —

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N I C K L A S B LO M

RUN UP!

Vertical K is obviously a running competition over one vertical kilometre, in other words 1 000 vertical metres. The course covers about five kilometres, but the challenge lies in the ascent. The start is at the square in Åre and from there follows a brutal up-trail that will likely more than once cause you to question your decision to undertake this. Get into the right mind set, overcome the lactic acid and pain, and struggle on despite bodily protests. The course is open throughout the summer and anyone can run it. Buy a Vertical K pass at Peak Performance and enter your registration details before checking in at the square. Run up to the summit and have your pass stamped in the summit café, Toppstugan. Since you’re already there, you may as well reward yourself with a fresh waffle. If the prospect of running all the way to the summit seems a bit much, you can start your training on the 0.5 K course, ending at Mt. Hummeln. Once your training is completed and you feel ready there is an opportunity to race against the world elite on 30 July. PPVERTICALK.SE

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RUN DOWN!

If you’re hesitant at the prospect of running up Mt Åreskutan, try running downhill instead. You may not feel the strain during the actual activity, but oh, the day after... We all differ in how prone we are to suffering stiffness and aches in the aftermath of training, but most of us would demonstrate physical hangovers to an impressive degree. So take it easy — especially if you’re uncertain of your knee stability. Downhill-running used to be the preferred exercise among young alpine ski racers. Nowadays it’s more popular to run uphill, but if you aim to give your legs and butt a real challenge you can intersect the uphill with running downhill. How: Travel to the summit by cable car. Run downhill. Stretch your muscles thoroughly for a long while (it won’t help you but its an awesome placebo). Don’t go to bed upstairs — the risk that you’ll be incapable of making it downstairs in the morning is imminent. More trails and tips at aretrails.com

ADVENTURES & ACTIVITIES | DOG-SLEDDING | SPA | SNOWMOBILING | AND MORE M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N

KAYAKING

The Jamtland Harjedalen region contains some of the best and most varied kayaking waters found anywhere. Mountain streams, rivers and some of Sweden’s most impressive waterfalls feed a vast network of lakes of all sizes. To start, there’s an abundance of calm, flatwater paddling with nothing but time to enjoy the embrace of the raw nature that surrounds you. Åresjön (of course), Ottsjön, Ånnsjön and Indalsälven are great choices. If it’s whitewater you crave, dozens of excellent creeks and rivers offer something for all paddling styles — from wave-surfing to wild rapids and waterfall drops. In fact, there’s so much to explore for those who love free-flowing water it has spawned the Åre Whitewater Festival to celebrate Åre and Jämtland as Sweden’s number-one whitewater destination.

HÅKAN WIKE

Rafting

White-water rafting, an adrenaline provoking adventure and a crazy outdoor experience. Åre (as usual) offers the optimal waters: Gevsjöströmmarna is the steepest rapids for commercial rafting in the country; the River Vålån stuns with a sudden

waterfall; Tångböleströmmarna flows with the snow-clad massif Snasahögarna as a backdrop. The size of the rafts varies depending on the size of the group, ranging from four to ten on board. Aftmost sits the pilot

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delivering the orders, sometimes gently, sometimes harshly. The minimum age applicable varies with the class of the white water. The water temperature however rarely reaches 18 degrees.

MORE ADVENTURES ZIP-LINING

Can you imagine swishing through and above the treetops at speeds up to 70 km per hour? Though you’re in the air, you’re as safe as it gets. Securely strapped in a sling, hanging from a one-man cableway, ziplining is certain to stir both your senses and the butterflies in your stomach. The Zipline park in Åre is unique in its kind in Europe. Nowhere else can you find so many sections in such a spectacular setting.

PARAGLIDING

Snowmobiling

Rarely speedy events, snowmobile safaris are leisurely, comfortable adventures reaching far into the hills to explore snowscapes that would otherwise take hours to reach on skis. Tours are usually spiced up with stops for refreshments in on-slope restaurants or cafés. Vita Renen on Mount Renfjället is a popular destination for a safari. Remember — make sure you are riding where its allowed.

DOG-SLEDDING

WHETHER YOU PREFER a couple of hours, a full day or week-long tour, the local dog-sled organisers can comply with your preferred way to experience the cry of the wild. The terrain around Åre and surrounding mountains is ideal for dogsledding tours. As the pack runs you through forest the sensation of speed is significant; trees fly past and the sled skids wildly. Beyond that, in the alpine regions, the vast expanses and views to bare mountains provide equally strong impressions. In either case, it’s interaction with the dogs that you will appreciate most. Irrespective of the terrain, they will do their utmost, straining at the harness. Your job is to help push the sled on steep uphill runs, as well as brake on downhills to avoid having the sled clip the rearmost dog.

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Get initiated into the sport high of paragliding through a tandem flight with an experienced pilot. Mount Åreskutan offers first-rate flying, and so Swedish paragliding has its national centre here in Åre. Without a sound you’ll swoop down and over town, dizzyingly crossing the cable car’s tallest pylons as they rise far below you. In Åre you can also acquire a basic paragliding license — meaning you can fly on your own. Should you choose to pursue this ultimate freedom, you’ll be tutored by the best and most experienced instructors in the country.

ICE-CLIMBING

In Duved, icefalls develop on which you can practice the alpine art of ice-climbing. Using ice-axes and crampons, you make your way up a vertical wall of ice. Not only does this require raw arm strength but also litheness, cool nerves and excellent coordination. The courses are organized by experienced guides, who also offer advanced tours to venues such as Lunndörrspasset that feature icefalls several hundred metres high.

ADVETURES & ACTIVITEIES | MORE TO DO IN ÅRE ERIK OLSSON

RIDING THE BACKCOUNTRY

If you want to try horseback riding in Åre you will most probably make friends with an Icelandic horse. The breed is low, sturdy and famous for quickly mastering the tricky highland terrain. Exploring Årefjällen from the back of a horse is an experience hard to beat, especially perhaps for inexperienced riders. The Icelandic horses are friendly beasts and certain to add a new dimension to your mountain holiday. Various organisers offer horseback riding in Åredalen, in summer just like in winter.

N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

Northern lights BREATH IN, BREATH OUT. White clouds of steam form with the rhythm of your exhalations. In front, above, and around you gathers the most powerful spectacle nature has to offer. Vibrant, blue-green fields flicker in the sky—wavering, changing color, amplifying, diminishing. In the silence of the dark, the snow squeaking under your shoes and the crisp sound of moving fabric is the only indication of earthly reality. Throughout history, this magical polar light (at our latitudes referred to as the northern lights) has seen a variety of

explanations — everything from the light of torches used by the Saami for locating reindeers, or a bridge to the sky built by gods, to a home of the dead. Though nowadays we understand the scientific details behind this phenomenon, it still enchants us. Polar lights occur when solar winds throw charged particles from the sun into the Earth’s thermosphere, where they then gather in an oval dome over the poles. When these particles meet atmospheric molecules, magic happens. Your best chance to experience what’s

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officially known as the Aurora Borealis is during a clear winter night when the particles are moving very quickly. Download a northern lights’ app or search for Aurora Forecast on the net. When the forecast says high activity and no clouds, fill up you thermos, wrap yourself in really warm clothes, seek out a dark spot well away from all streetlights (Ullådalen is a tip), and let yourself be entertained. It will be worth every second of any lost sleep. Need a guide? Well, book one.

M AT T I S L I N D QV I S T

IGLOO ÅRE WOULD YOU LIKE to surprise the love of your life with a radically different experience in one of Sweden’s most romantic hotels? Then Igloo Åre might be for you. For years, sitting around their dinner table, Katarina Lidberg Hising and Håkan Hising discussed the possibility of a business based on snow and ice, perhaps building something that could become a tourist attraction. First, however, they had to find the right place—a lofty, snow-sure location with a beautiful view that was both wind-sheltered but open to the sun. Lo and behold they found such a spot right in the Åre ski system. In spring 2012, friends and partners helped to build a small test igloo, and the rest is history. Nestled in metres-deep snow among the birches at

Bed time.

treeline, Igloo Åre now offers unique accommodation on the side of a mountain,. The experience begins with a welcoming warm drink, then an intimate dinner, and finally a spa in one of two large hot tubs before it’s time to curl into sleeping bags in one of the igloos. You awake to a hot mug of coffee or tea and breakfast in the wintry snowscape at 1,000 metres, with breathtaking views of the entire valley. Each year, construction begins for igloo accommodation, dinner facilities and even wedding venues in November and December. But with different conditions every winter, the design, placement, decoration and sizes of structures vary according to snow conditions, making for even more of an adventure. I G L O O A R E . C O M/E N

THE COPPERHILL

M AT T I S L I N D QV I S T

Despite a somewhat shaky financial start, Copperhill has gone on to become a landmark and an obvious part of Åre’s grandeur. Hovering atop Mount Förberget in Björnen, the hotel is designed by world renowned architect Peter Bohlin. The views may be some of the most scenic in the hills. The warm, sober interior atmosphere accomplishes the feat of impressing and creating ambience. Copperhill tempts with heaps of reasons for visiting, ranging from culinary to spa sensations but if that’s not enough, you can always do a round of the hotel’s banisters. They seem to pose a strong attraction on jibber kids, star photographers and international film teams. C O P P E R H I L L . S E

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ADVENTURES & ACTIVITIES | MUST-VISITS IN & AROUND ÅRE JONAS KULLMAN

Places to visit

Tännforsen Waterfall — just as mighty in the winter.

Åres' gems are almost too many to count. Here are a few you have to visit when you’re here. In and around the village.

ERIK WESTBERG

TÄNNFORSEN WATERFALL The masses of water of Swedens largest waterfall is reputed to fill the Globen Arena in 15 minutes and there is a lot of action as it splashes down 37 metres into Lake Noren. An impressive sight and the conclusion of the visit, when the café is open during summer, could well be freshly made waffles with the coffee at the lodge.

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ÅRE OLD CHURCH Åre’s medieval church celebrated its 800th anniversary a few years ago. With its solid stone walls this is a pleasantly cool attraction in the centre of Åre. This was one of the stops made by the pilgrims on their way to Nidaros (today Trondheim). ÅRE MUSEUM Located in the Bergbanan’s mountain station up at Hotell Fjällgården. The museum was opened in 2013 and is housed in a historic building, showing Åre’s history from a farm village to a tourist metropolis. Learn about the Sámi people, the peasant community, travellers, curling and bobsleigh significance for the development of Åre and much more. ÅRE GLASS WORKS in Duved. Come inside to enjoy the heat and watch how to blow glass. Outlet with many attractive pieces in glass. HANDÖL Scenic area known for its soap stone and involvement in the Karolinian death march in 1718. Both stories are well-told at the museum. Also café and sales of soap stone products. RISTAFALLET WATERFALL Easy accessible waterfall with nice trails on both sides of the fall. Also known as Glupafallet in the film Ronja Rövardotter.

G Ö S TA F R I E S

NJARKA SÁMI CAMP

Some 30 km from Åre is the Sami camp of Njarka Sameläger, a must-visit for those interested in culture and heritage. On a peninsula in Lake Häggsjön, the Mattson family has built an authentic Sami settlement. The aim is to demonstrate the lives of the reindeer-herding Sami people and a visit here entails both insight in the people’s history and their current circumstances. Up until the 1930s, the Sami people lived in teepees, and this type of building is dominant at Njarka. You can join a guided tour led by Maud Mattson; coffee and “glödkaka” bread is served by the fire. You can also try traditional lasso throwing. Don’t miss the chance to gain some insight into the living conditions of the area’s indigenous inhabitants.

—NJARK A .COM

RIK ARD WESTIN

Ottsjö brewery

The beer at Ottsjö Brygghus Café & Pub has received many thumbs-up reviews, but perhaps the

best of all called it “mysteriously good”, recommending you try them all. As if that

weren’t enough, it also serves excellent homemade food in a lovely atmosphere at a good price accompanied by great music. That’s a sensory symphony.

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ADVENTURES & ACTIVITIES | MUST-VISITS IN & AROUND ÅRE OL A ROCKBERG

Vålådalen At the foot of Ottfjället, the road ends and adventure begins. Vålådalen is a

classic winter resort 30 km south of Åre where many Swedish athletes have historically trained. Vålådalen’s

mountain station (once the Swedish Tourist Association’s largest mountain facility) has welcomed guests with a warm sauna, comfortable beds, and a rustic restaurant since 1923. But you’ll want to visit for the cross-country skiing. Several trails to STF cabins and mountain stations in the Jämtlandsfjällen start here. OL A ROCKBERG

Fröå mine

Up until 1919 copper was mined in Fröå. Today this is a piece of culture history, with daily guided tours of the old mining area among restored buildings, channels, water mill and a fascinating pump. The café

and restaurant Bergstugan is an attraction in itself with traditional local cuisine, sandwiches, pastries and cakes. —

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Åre chocolate factory In Björnänge, 3 km east of Åre, millions of truffles is handmade every year. See the manufacturing up close. Also tasting, café and

boutique. They have a great variety of chocolate truffles and other yummy products, so make sure to grab some of Åres' taste with you back home. M AT T I S L I N D QV I S T

Kretsloppshuset This “Natural Cycle House” advertises itself as a sheer delight for the senses. Given its seductive scents, wealth of plants, rippling water, and delicious organic, locally sourced, fair-trade food, it’s pretty hard to disagree. The

winter garden houses the café and restaurant where guests can enjoy lunch or a Swedish fika under a living green ceiling year-round. NATURUM Vålådalen nature reserve is as large as Öland. A taste of its animals, nature, reindeer farming and culture is available in Naturum’s exhibitions. HUSÅ MANOR/MINING & MINERALM USEUM Alone of its kind in these areas stands the Huså manor in the small farming community at the ”other side” of Åreskutan overlooking Kallsjön. The adjacent museum tells the historic stories about the palmy days of this mining village.

HAPPY CAMP

Lyckans Läger (Camp of Happiness) is only a one hour hike from Edsåsdalen, and is well worth the effort. Beautifully located, two small cabins provide cosy shelter and basic facilities for up to eight people, and all the wilderness you could ask for in a manageable package. The lakeside, woodfired sauna is the pièce de résistence of the experience. Cool down afterwards with a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear lake — just don’t forget to chop a hole in the ice first.

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ADVENTURES & ACTIVITIES | WATER GAMES DA N I E L B LO M

BEACHES

ÅRESJÖN Located at Holiday

Adventure swims

The River Ullån is an adventure waterland as natural as they come. With views of both the peaks Åreskutan and Mullfjället the river meanders sometimes in spraying rapids and sometimes in quieter stretches down the slopes. Here you can chill in the natural pools created by the water’s unrepentant power, join the rapids in tickling waterslides or challenge yourself jumping from high cliffs into narrow water-filled ravines. You can also follow the water upstream to fix your own canyoning trip — a refreshing experience.

Club, Åre’s largest beach is a sandy one, offering facilities for beach volleyball, a playground and canoe rentals. Farther to the west, Draklanda offers another swim-friendly place on the lake. NULLTJÄRN Shallow and child-friendly beach (500 meters long!) with remarkable views of the peaks Kyrkstensfjällen and Stensdalsfjällen. OTTSJÖN On the River Storån, this fine shallow, sandy beach offers magnificent views. Ridvadet is a shallow wade that allows you to cross the lake from one shore to the other. ULLÅN Enjoy these natural waterslides and pools in the highland river; start off in Ullådalen and follow the river downstream towards Åre. HELGESJÖN Partly covered in dark, lava-looking sand, this beach offers views of Mt Åreskutan. GRUNDSVIKEN This beach at Lake Kallsjön, on the northern side of Mt Åreskutan, is several hundred metres long. HOTELL FJÄLLGÅRDEN

Outdoor pool At an altitude of 556 metres above sea level, this location offers spectacular views over the entire Åre valley. The swimming pool is open whenever the hotel is. HOLIDAY CLUB Waterpark with a 67-metre waterslide, multiple pools and sauna world.

DA R R E N H A M L I N

WATERPARKING

When the sun relentlessly bakes the peaks, it can still be pleasant to seek refuge indoors; otherwise you might have to wait a long time for an excuse. During Åre’s century-old history as an outdoor sport resort there have — believe it or not — been a few days that the TV meteorologists would describe as “bad weather days”. These would comprise one of those rare days when the sun fails to shine from clear blue skies. That’s the time to glide down to the Holiday Club waterpark at Lakeside Åre Strand. Unless for other reasons you’re later able to take part in the year’s first après-beach, or at least after-bath. — H O L I DAYC LU B . S E

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JONAS KULLMAN

IN ÅRE THERE’S A PERVASIVE SENSE of history in the central square and surrounding streets lined with old wooden buildings. A 100-year-old funicular still clanks up to the ski hill in slow-motion alongside modern six- and eight-person chairs and a tramway. But to really plumb the resort’s essence we need to go back to Victorian times. In 1882 the railway to Åre from Stockholm was officially opened by King Oscar II. Nine years later, in 1891, Åre’s first tourist information centre advertised “climatic spa Åre” as the official theme of its first campaign. Thus, Åre has been a kurort—or curing place— for over a century. People came for the air and to bathe in healing waters. Those with ailments like bad lungs were prescribed a trip to Åre. You’ve probably come here for less dire reasons, but you can still enjoy the heritage of a good soak. It’s often said that in Åre there’s a hot tub for almost every house, with saunas, spas and pools in pretty much every hotel: there’s Holiday Club’s selection of hot and cold pools, waterfalls, waterslides, six different saunas, swimming pool, spa, steam room and Jacuzzis; a luxurious spa with outdoor tub at the Copperhill Mountain Lodge with spectacular views of Mt Åreskutan; the spa at Tott Hotel with a view over the village: and many more. Come to think of it, maybe a prescribed a trip to “climatic spa Åre” would be good for all of us!

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JONAS KULLMAN

Water world

THE VILLAGE | FOOD | DRINKS

Food tracks on the mountain The restaurant selection in Åre and its surroundings is remarkably fine. We are not the only ones who think so. THE EXPRESSION

“punching above its weight” refers to someone or something that exerts an influence disproportional to its size. And there’s no better way to describe dining and nightlife in Åre, a town of just 1,500 souls that eats, drinks and makes merry like a big city. You might have finished your day of skiing in Åre, but your experience of this northern gem is far from over. The town and its surroundings are packed with great restaurants and bars, from local to internationally renowned, from winebars and brew pubs to everything in between. And although new and first-class dining experienc-

es open every year, some of the longstanding options remain the best, bringing together central convenience, celebrated kitchens, venerable buildings, unbeatable ambiance, and inventive cuisine in a friendly, welcoming setting. In North America, for instance, something like reindeer and lingonberry pizza might be labelled “Scando-Italian fusion”, but as one writer put it, that would be pretentious, and “Åre doesn’t really do pretentious”. Every year, around 800 restaurants across Sweden are tested and evaluated by the country’s White Guide restaurant and café experts. Some 600 of these eventually find a berth in the guide itself. In 2017, Åre alone placed nine on the list. Åre’s approximately 50 restaurants include traditional and specialty offerings, a range of cozy cafés, and abundant night life — whether live

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entertainment or quiet lounges. And there’s a huge local pride in delivering quality and sustainability on all fronts. Much of what you find in these establishments is locally grown, sourced, fished, foraged, hunted, brewed or distilled. Not hard to do when there are roughly 160 local food producers, 30 farmhouse dairies and numerous operating farms in the surrounding region of Jämtland Härjedalen. UNLIKE MORE SOMNOLENT Scandinavian ski

areas, there’s always something happening in Åre, and the restaurants are busy, vibrant places packed with happy crowds. Yet the village remains intimate, with an Alpine character built on the history and traditions of a busy ski resort. Like many mountain towns, Åre’s inhabitants include a range of talented individuals with outsize sensibili-

ERIK OLSSON

THE MICHELIN TWO-STAR EXPERIENCE CHEF MAGNUS NILSSON’S

ties and a collective entrepreneurial vibe — one of the more obvious explanations for the town’s diversity and quality of food offerings. Åre’s can-do spirit, responsible for the many clothing and other outdoor companies that have found roots here, similarly extends to restaurants, with several famously run by ski bums who toiled in the local food industry before opening up their own places. Eventually these became well-known enough to attract talented chefs from elsewhere in Sweden looking to create something interesting for an appreciative international crowd. There’s also the critical mass and spillover of Åre’s highly-respected hotel and restaurant school, which has turned out star chefs like Niklas Ekstedt and Magnus Nilsson. Nilsson, Sweden’s most celebrated chef, runs Fäviken, the country’s most unique and cutting-edge fine-dining restaurant, just down the road from Åre in the midst of the Jämtland wilderness. The lure of restaurants that was always part of the draw when skiing the Alps has also taken hold here in the Swedish hinterlands. You can eat yourself silly while skiing around

Åre. For instance, you’d probably need more than a week just to sample all the best lunch places around the ski hill, but it probably makes more sense just to come back. ENJOYING GOOD FOOD and drink is now a

route to enjoying everything else about a ski resort you’ve never been to. And if that resort happens to be punching above its weight in the international food and drink scene, well, that’s going to be one fine ski experience.

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Michelin two-star dining experience is set in the idyll of a remote hunting estate in the Jamtland countryside. As the Michelin Guide teases, “The young, forward-thinking team hunt, forage and preserve the bounteous crop delivered by the surrounding land. Enthralling, adventurous cooking is rooted in the Scandic tradition.” Well. You can read this, of course. Or you can watch it come together in the PBS series The Mind of a Chef, or Netflix’s serial documentary Chef’s Table. But in either case you’re delivered only of the philosophy of visual and culinary creativity behind the restaurant’s wild success, experiencing vicariously the homey, 24-seat restaurant that serves a daily fixed menu of refined, expertly crafted and highly original dishes rooted in the land of Nilsson’s upbringing. Missing will be the tastes — both explosive and subtle — of delights served in what some critics argue is the world’s best restaurant (officially ranked 67th in the Top 100). For that, of course, you must spend an evening there. The ethos Nilsson has cultivated through Fäviken has also inspired a revolution of food and beverage crafts in the countryside, making it not only a place to dine, but now integral to the culture of the land on which it dwells — an outsized accomplishment you won’t find on any television program.

THE VILLAGE | FOOD | DRINKS FREDRIK BOBERG

Enwrapped A MODERN VARIETY OF THE CLASSIC SWEDISH WRAP

ACCORDING TO POLARBRÖD, the bakers producing what is perhaps the most widespread variety of soft flatbread, the concept of a reindeer wrap — renklämma — came about as the result of Greta and Gösta Nilsson, whose bakery in Älvsbyn sought an opportunity to sell this typical northern bread to the south of the country. In order to distribute these thin flatbread-resembling rounds with fillings, they had to be frozen. So, the rounds were wrapped with slices of reindeer roast — et voilà — the birth of the ‘renklämma’. Here in Jämtland, we call this type of wrapped thin bread with filling a stut. The stut in the picture has little in common with the more mass-produced variety, but it’s still a reindeer wrap. It has been assembled by our friend Ulrika Frisk (merited ‘Home Cook of the Year‘ some years ago), and she vouched for the quality of the final product, but we felt we had to make sure by tasting... rest assured it does the trick!

How to do it. Take a round of homemade ‘tunnbröd.’ Place the filling on the bread. Roll it, and eat! To achieve an optimal wrap we suggest the following ingredients: tunnbröd (baked in Åre Hembygdsgård for example), chanterelles (you can pick your own), lingonberries (you can also pick your own) Vit Caprin (goat’s cheese from Skärvången), cream cheese (like Philadelphia), pea sprouts, smoked heart of reindeer, grated horseradish, and sliced red onion.

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FREDRIK BOBERG

Fika at the square Americano, macchiato, cappuccino or a simple plain brew. There are many ways

to imbibe caffeine, but most important is that the taste of the main ingredient is good enough you needn’t worry about the rest. The Swedish word fika usually entails a coffee time-out with the addition of a pastry, sandwich or cake. Åre Square and surroundings tempt you to enjoy your own fika with no less than three new cafés, all serving locally roasted coffee and featuring pastries made on the premises — a unique phenomenon in a day and age when the major coffee chains spread like a firebrand across the country. Fäviken Magasinet has opened a popup

café and restaurant, Krus. All the bread and pastry is baked in Fäviken’s own stoneoven bakery managed by star baker Helena Bjernekull. The flour is KRAV certified and sourced primarily from the regional Ångsta Kvarn mill; other ingredients are just as always carefully selected. Hot tip: try the succulent bun filled with malted barley, a classic in the making if you ask us. Café Åre Torg shares the premises with STF and is run by Marie Lithén. Just about everything served here is organic, and buns, pastries and bread are baked on site with tender love and care. The café is open for breakfast, lunch, fika and dinner every day, all year round—practically unheard of!

Åre Kafferosteri, which also supplies the previously mentioned with coffee, has opened a small bar right in the square. Light lunches and fika is served but the emphasis — naturally — is on the coffee. Åre coffee roasters give the specialty beans they use the handling they deserve, all sourced from small, carefully selected plantations that operate with great respect for the environment. Coffee growing and processing is a science in itself, with various beans and roasting techniques. If you like diving into the java jungle, we recommend a tasting here. Enjoy coffee and pastry exactly the way you like it—only a bit more eco-friendly.

GREEN TRUFFLES animals, why did he make them out of meat?” Whether it was this kind of

Homer Simpson is reputed to have pondered: “If God didn’t want us to eat

question or simply a genuine consideration for creatures that inspired Åre Chocolate Factory to create this year’s most heavenly novelty is unclear. What we do know, however, is that the current talk of the town is its new vegan chocolate truffle cones — delicious and fauna friendly. Here at Magasin Åre we’re praising the powers that be for not making animals out of sugar… We’re also wondering what next year’s chocolate-making trends will entail: bacon truffles, ox-tail toffees? We quiver in anticipation.

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THE VILLAGE | FOOD | DRINKS

CRAFTY

M AT T I S L I N D QV I S T

Why Åre is beer’s new best friend

IS IT A COMPETITION, a revolution—or just a party? Hard to say, but since 2011, the region’s stalwart Jämtland Brewery has gained four competitors, all passion projects of beer enthusiasts in the Åre Valley. First off the mark was Åre Bryggcompagni, started by buddies Daniel Flink and Anders Abrahamsson. Five years on, main production has moved out of town to Ängarna. Thus, with an experimental brewery in Huså, Åre’s largest producer now brews 70,000 litres a year, including its bestselling “Community Beer,” a balanced IPA that combines taste with charity, as some revenue goes to support local businesses. The idea of brewing organic beer in Ottsjö came to biologists Sofia Kapia and Leif Silversund on a drive one day. In the basement of a farmhouse on a slope

above Ottsjö — with unparalleled views to Ottfjället — the pair now brew peerless organic beer under the name Ottsjö Bryggeri. The farm’s old joinery has been transformed into a pub and café open a couple of nights a week during ski season. Here, Sofia and Leif bake bread and serve dishes that pair perfectly with their beers. Jämtland’s largest beer selection, at Parkvillan in Åre, includes ten of their own brewed on premises. In order to meet demand, three new 500-litre tanks have brought capacity up to 2,000 litres/month. Run by beer enthusiast Calle Nygren, who moved from Småland to Åre for skiing, girl-

AQUA VITAE BUUSTAMONS BRÄNNERI

friend Jenny Leijon is the brewing mastermind while buddy Johan Nilsson cooks up the pub’s rustic Jämtland menu. Åre’s latest microbrewery is Svartbergets Fjällbryggeri, Sweden’s highest at 864 metres in the on-slope restaurant Svartberget Café & Restaurang. Founder and entrepreneur Philip Hafstad is an internationally certified beer tester. With a focus on “skier beer,” the brewery produces 500 litres/ week in 10 different styles, from traditional German to exciting new beers with Jämtland ingredients. I guess it’s a party after all.

THE SMALL, ENTICING BUUSTAMON HOTEL is situated at the treeline in Ullådalen, at 732 metres above sea level, near the pistes of Rödkullen with fine views of Mt Mullfjället. With its squeaking floor boards, fireplaces, and dark wood panels decorated with antique farm tools, Buustamons Krog is a Swedish version of the rustic mountain chalets that have become popular on-slope restaurants in the Alps. Upstairs are 10 small hotel rooms with a total of 20 beds. The basement plays host to one of Sweden’s smallest legal distilleries, where the house aquavit is made from sugar, wheat and potatoes produced by local farmers. The production of schnapps is based on pure spring water from Buustamon’s own well and all herbs and spices for flavouring are sourced locally. The spirits are served in Buustamon’s restaurant and tastings can be arranged on request in the distillery. The classics Hojt and Buustasup are also sold in local off-license stores (Systembolaget) in Åre, Järpen and Östersund.

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ROBERT HENRIKSSON

APRÈS-SKI IS STILL THE BEST IN ÅRE BAR ÅREGÅRDEN

Relaxed lobby bar in central Åre. BROKEN

Laid back bar with a high proportion of villagers among the guests. BYGGET

Rock’n roll and a loud party. CARINS KROG

Be cosy in Björnen. With children’s corner. COPPERHILL MOUNTAIN LODGE

Sink into deep sofas at the Copperhill lobby bar. BOMBOM

Central après-ski in the square. HOLIDAY CLUB

APRÈS-SKI THE APRÈS-SKI PHEN OMENON — hereabouts

called after-ski — is awesome, tempting, often remarkable, sometimes repelling, and, on top of that, controversial. The saying goes that the Swedes invented après-ski, but this is a ridiculous statement. On one hand, it’s impossible to say where the first sip of glühwein was imbibed or who first took to the dance floor clad in leather ski boots. On the other hand,

Bar DJ and the sporty mingle at O’Learys.

From cosy fireside hugging to boot dancing, Åre has regained its position as the best venue for après-ski.

it seems indisputable that Swedes invented the senseless “vulgo after-ski” that the tabloids are so fond of describing. The phenomenon started in the Alps, invaded by Swedish ski bums who were partying as if every day were the last. Coaches loaded with sports-holiday vacationers ran in caravan along Europe’s autobahns with duty-free shops their prime destination. Then, suddenly, it all

calmed down. A quieter, more urbane and, at most, slightly crowded after-ski took over. Frothy glasses of beer and comfortable armchairs seemed the proper reward for a skier’s exhausted body. But something is happening out there again — the tumultuous after-ski is re-emerging. Not in its previous delinquent form, but more sweaty, unstructured and celebratory. It’s been years since the

skiwear-clad party princes and princesses wobbled home around midnight in their ski boots, but they’re making a return. This much-missed sight means that Sweden — and Åre in particular — is once again the best choice for after-ski life; this time offering a full spectrum from boot dancing to fireplace cuddling.

FIND THEM ALL!

HOTELL FJÄLLGÅRDEN

Wooden benches, long tables, live bands and a full party. HOTELL GRANEN

Åre’s most peaceful après-ski. ÅREHYDDAN

A little calmer, familiar après-ski. LILLA TYROLEN

On Förberget in Björnen. With an Austrian touch. TIMMERSTUGAN

Après-ski at the bottom of the slopes, by the cable car. TOTT HOTELL

Outdoor après-ski on the porch, in the spring. TOTTEBO BAR

Relaxed après-ski, cocktails and great music. VERANDAN ÅRE

Classic après-ski in Dippan’s old premises. WERSÉNS BAR

Stylish bar with a soft lounge tempo.

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THE VILLAGE | SHOPPING

Åre — a centre of curiosity, innovation, and invention AT MID SWEDEN UNIVERSITY’S Östersund campus, the Swedish Winter Sports Research Centre and associated Sports Tech Research Center (STRC) combine for a multidisciplinary focus on sports engineering, product development, and human/equipment interaction. Several local outdoor products have been collaborative efforts with the STRC, putting the Jämtland region on the global outdoor industry map. The prestigious ISPO Awards honour the most exceptional products in the sports industry, and Östersund company Woolpower won 2014 ISPO Gold in the accessories category for a felt insole made of recycled merino wool — a degree project by MSU Sports Tech student Kajsa Nilsson. Gold in the off-piste category went to Åre Ski Factory and the Extrem brand’s innovative and uniquely designed Opinion model — the world’s first community-developed ski, birthed on the web in a freerider’s forum. As part of his Sports Tech thesis, Fredrik Andersson developed a ski binding — the Beast 16 — that solved the dilemma of a light and stable touring binding that didn’t prerelease on demanding descents, landing him a job as product developer at Dynafit. Åre’s unique and innovative entrepreneurship is on particular display in locally developed and globally recognized outdoor clothing brands: Peak Performance, launched by a trio of die-hard skiers, pushing 35 years as the pride of Åre; in only a short period of time, mountain guide Jimmy Odén’s Elevenate has gone from a small outerwear project to an established brand with critically acclaimed garments in over 150 selected ski shops around the world; Skhoop, the original and wildly popular insulated skirt has taken the world’s cold climates by storm; and, most recently Stellar Equipment has made uncompromising high-tech outdoor equipment accessible and affordable to all while fundamentally changing the way high-performance outerwear is developed, produced and distributed.

Elevenate (jacket), Skhoop (skirt) and Stellar Equipment (pant) — they all call Åre their home.

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M AT T I S L I N D QV I S T

THE OPTIMAL BOOT

JUST IN TIME for its 85th anniversary as a boot-

maker, Lundhags has designed what we think is “probably the most optimal hiking boot for Jämtland.” As soon as your foot is in the boot, we swear you’ll feel a sense of comfort, wellbeing and inspiration strong enough to set you hiking to Blåhammaren for a spontaneous dinner. Tjakke Mid is a three-layer shell boot incorporating many of the best features of Lundhags more advanced models. The lower part is made in a new cellular rubber material called Certech®EXP. Believe us when we say that in order to stay dry in a pair of boots on a wet hiking trail in Jämtland, you need cellular rubber; there is nothing else. APPROX 3 500 SEK

Mattis Lundhag in the heart of the factory in Järpen.

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THE VILLAGE | SHOPPING

Vätnoe

Handicraft is an important part of Sami culture. Generations of highly skilled craftsmen, inspired by the colours and forms of nature, the conditions for nomadic people and long-standing traditions, have refined and enhanced the handicraft. Sami handicrafts are even more admired outside Sami circles. Here in Åre, in the middle of Sápmi, the cultural region traditionally inhabited by the Sami people, there are many ways of sampling the modern and masterly handicraft. * S A M I ( S O U T H ) W O R D F O R H A N D I C R A F T. Scarf ring with sámi patterns handmade of reindeer horn by Erik Fankki 9 5 0 S E K . Handbag handmade of reindeer leather, felt and pewter wire by Lena Lundin Skott 4 . 5 0 0 S E K . Cup handmade of birchwood and reindeer horn by Erik Fankki 1 8 . 5 0 0 S E K . Hand painted ceramic plate from Team Lapland 9 9 9 S E K / 1 6 P C . Bracelet handmade of reindeer leather, felt and pewter wire by Irene Nutti 1 . 7 5 0 S E K .

Cutting edge

Torbjörn “Tobbe” Lundström creates unique knives with exquisite detail. True works of art that are bought, sold, collected and displayed, Tobbe’s knives deliver something extra. A result of more than 80 hours of handcrafting, each is totally unique, with the choices of handle material just as exclusive. Though Tobbe placed only second in a recent knife-making Swedish Championships, he made up for it by winning the Nordic Championships. Not surprisingly his showpiece knives are pricey: each will set you back between 10,000 and 20,000 SEK. TO B B E I A R E . S E

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Handicrafts

That Åre is a special place is reflected in the range of handicrafts made in the area. Åre Hemslöjd (Åre Handicraft), has a long history in the village. Here you’ll find the works of local artists—felted items from Åre Toveri, pottery from Made in Åre, Sámi crafts, artful but useful items by Anna Cronheden, candles from Åre Candle Factory, and mountain jewelry by Jeff Davis, an American goldsmith and longtime Åre resident. Årebutiken (the Åre shop) features Åre-designed bags, linens, clothes, placemats, posters, Åre-made blends of tea and coffee, and chocolate from Åre Chocolate Factory (though you should visit there, as well). And don’t forget the wealth of artisan foods from Åre and surrounding villages! ”The Åre Candle” by Åre Candle Factory, 100 SEK. Glass bowl by Åre Glashytta, 600 SEK. Blue mugg by Made in Åre, 200 SEK. Rings by Jeff Davies, 3000 SEK/ring.

RERECYCLE Also a part of the Studion collective is Free Spirit Shaking Soul, whose story of crafting jewelry and accessories from recycled materials has echoed around the world. Natural materials like previously used stone, wood, leather, feathers, shells and crystals are obvious ingredients for products whose inspiration comes from the love of nature and an appreciation of secondhand goods and bohemian lifestyles. FREESPIRITSHAKINGSOUL.COM

Heads up!

Local Åre brand Stitch N Stones is all about the details. Known for its handmade Vega caps that dominate all regional competition, it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say they sell like hotcakes. The latest in their line is a winter-adapted version of the Vega, as unique in its design as previous models but utilizing a warmer type of yarn. Make sure to visit Stitch N Stones in Studion — a creative collective studio — to get one. If they sell anything like previous versions, however, you better hurry. STITCHNSTONES.SE —

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CALENDAR | EVENTS | COMPETITIONS | HAPPENINGS

CALENDAR

A SELECTION OF EVENTS HOSTED IN ÅRE THIS YEAR. FIND THEM ALL AT ARESWEDEN.COM N I C K L A S B LO M

fis

Alpine World Championships

It is time again to end up at the Swedish Alpine National Arena here in Åre. The alpine world elite is here to fight for the world champ titles. Watching alpine competitions live is exciting, come and see the world’s elite duke it out. All disciplines for both men and women are on the program, and lots of happenings all around Åre. We’re keeping our fingers crossed a little extra for our Swedish stars. A R E 2 01 9 .CO M 4-17 FEB

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Race you to the bottom!

RED BULL HOMERUN Sure, there are some rules to follow, but the basics are; run about 100 meters, get your skis on your feet and get to the bottom of the mountain as fast as you can. Of course, the one that gets down first wins, but everybody gets to go to the massive aprés ski/race party. Probably a bit more wild (if possible) this year; Red Bull Homerun celebrates 10 years of madness.

19 APRIL

R E D B U L L . S E /H O M E R U N

Åre Gastronomy A week with focus on good food and drink. Local food and beverage producers and restaurants are highlighted through this unique event. Invited chefs from near and far are hosting dinners, beer tastings, wine tastings and local food popup-stores. Tasty experiences like dinner in the cabin and skiing combined with a 6-course lunch on the slopes. A R EGA S T R O N O M Y. S E 18-24 MARCH

ÅRE SESSIONS Åre is famous for hosting big artists. But that's ran-

26-27 APRIL dom gigs at random clubs. Now we have our very

own annual music festival, and it's time time for the third year. Åre Sessions combines the world of music with the culture of skiing in a mix that has grown to be one of the season’s major events. Some 20 music acts will perform on various stages around Åre. And don’t worry about tickets — your SkiPass serves as your festival pass. Artists will be announced over the winter so check the website for updates. And get ready to party. A R E S E S S I O N S . S E Timbuktu & Damn can be seen at Åre Sessions.

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CALENDAR | EVENTS | COMPETITIONS | HAPPENINGS

ÅRE EXTREME CHALLENGE Your worst adversary is your wish to give up, to throw in the towel. This is about Sweden’s largest adventure sports event and Åre’s version of Iron Man: Åre E xtreme Challenge. Each year has its own character: One year it was so cold that the athletes were considering bringing skis for the downhill run from Åre to Huså via the summit of Mt Åreskutan. A few of the contestants lost their way in the blizzard and cold and exhausted had to be led by their competitors down below the cloud cover. Another year saw tropical heat and an insect attack during the biking stage. Horseflies, the size of thrushes, were feasting on the exhausted ÅEC heroes and heroines striving to pursue the race and ignore the tempting calls from their drink-sipping minds. In June, most of them will still be there, on the watery starting line in their unstable kayaks for yet another edition of the paddle stage with the mighty waterfall of Tännforsen as a backdrop. They will not be pondering all the previous years’ hardship; completing ÅEC means an extraordinary capacity to forget. Focus will be on staying in the kayak, on a light and easy step up on Åreskutan and on legs that fast and speedily pedal the final leg of the long day. Early in the morning sounds the start pistol and the event sometimes called The Longest Day has begun. A R E E X T R E M E C H A L L E N G E . S E

29 JUNE

EMRIK JANSSON

ÅRE BIKE FESTIVAL In the beginning of July, when the Åre Bike Fes-

3-7 JULY tival hits Åre again. It will be a wonderful mix of happenings, clinics, competitions, kidsevents and after-bikes. A nice ”bicycle hang”. One of the festival’s main events is Åre Video Challenge, where five teams of the planet’s absolute cream of free-riding cyclists have a few days to create a five-minute film with Åre as a backdrop. The results will be shown during a gala in the arena at Holiday Club in front of 800 spectators. Another highlight is the Midnight Ride, where fire bunks shows the way down from Åreskutan in the twilight of the setting sun. Also, don’t miss the classic competition Whip It Good by the VM6:an lift. An easy accessed, mind blowing, jumping spectacle that will make your jaw drop. For the cycling locals, this week is the absolute highlight of the summer. A R E B I K E F E S T I VA L . C O M

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K A I - OT TO M E L AU , S W E D E M A N

SWEDEMAN XTREME TRIATHLON The XTri World Tour is held in Åre for

20 JULY the second time. A challenging tri-

athlon with an initial stage of 3.8 km swimming in Öster-Noren followed by 205 km of road cycling from Tännforsen to Krokom and back. The race ends, as it should, with a marathon run with the finish on top of Åreskutan. Extremely tough. S W E X T R I . C O M

ANETTE ANDERSSON

27 JULY-3 AUG FJÄLLMARATON WEEK 27 JULY SALOMON 27K , as the name

suggests, the race is 27 km, then it is also 1150 vertical meters, which does not make the race easier. But one of Åres mountain’s most beautiful trails makes this race a pleasure running. 27 JULY TOUR DE VÄLLISTE is as an in-

troduction to the Fjällmaraton where you can get to know trail running on a not too demanding course.

you’ll know it will be quite tough anyway. 1 AUG THE SWIX SPRINT starts with

a prologue in a short, about 300m long, but yet demanding course. It is followed by finals with heats of four by four where the top two qualifies. Same model as a sprint race in cross country skiing. A really muddy and dirty spectacle that is fun for spectators.

28 JULY LUNDHAGS MINI M ARATHON is

the children’s own race during the Fjällmaraton week, and it takes place at Köjagården in Edsåsdalen. 30 JULY PEAK PERFORMA NCE VERTICAL K

Uphill race from Åre Town Square to the top of Åreskutan. The prestigious match to Åreskutan’s peak and the time up to it is the focus. The times and records from previous years are to be beat. Get a Vertical K pass and compete against previous winners and other runners. P P V E R T I C A L K . S E 31 JULY COPPER TRAIL 7K is the race everyone can participate in, and everyone has a chance to win a car from KIA. The course stretches around Totthummeln and is not that long, but when you are at the start at Åre Town Square and look up to Totthummeln,

3 AUG ULVANG QUARTER MARATHON

starts in Edsåsdalen and then works its way up about 600 meters to the Välliste peak with amazing views. And then awaits the downhill trail towards Trillevallen and the finish. 3 AUG KIA FJÄLLMARATON , a distance

of 43 km and 2100 vertical meters should scare the most. The course contains technical parts and varied terrain. The start is in Vålådalen and then you cross the three mountains Ottfjället, Hållfjället and Välliste. Do you feel that you have time to take a break on the peaks you’ll witness the great view of the south of Årefjällen. If you run all the competitions, there will be an accumulated distance of 109 km and 5900 vertical meters. Now, that’s tough... FJ A L L M A R ATO N . S E

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LAST WORD P H OTO O L A R O C K B E R G

”I COULD LIVE HERE” THE FIRST TIME I CAME TO ÅRE, I took a taxi from Åre/Östersund airport. The driver, a large man with a red nose, was nice, if a bit eccentric. As we drove along Storsjön, he talked of fishing and hunting and growing up on an island in the middle of the Great Lake. He also told me a giant monster lived in the lake, and that he’d seen it several times. I was new here, and ready to believe anything. I nodded, and stared out across the cold, steely water. There was womb-like comfort in those lapping waters, the sweep of birch and pine across land that rolled up to the horizon like carpet bunched in a hall. Moose warnings picketed the roadside, and tidy cottages in clean, countrified, Scandinavian style rose and fell from view. A creeping familiarity took hold. As we drove into Åre, I remember thinking, “I could live here.” Nothing I experienced on that first visit did anything to change my mind and everything to reinforce it: skiing soupy May snow and gazing out across the broad, snowy highlands to the west; watching a crazy jump contest under a molten, late-evening sun while winter was chased from the valley; spring raccoon-tans and smiles everywhere; outdoor parties, good food, great people, life as simple celebration. I’ve been to Åre many times since, and each has made me more certain. I could live here. I could live in a town where past and present hold hands around every corner. Where culture and tradition have a place

in the modern world. Where people aren’t shackled by history, but embrace it with every action, as if they’re part of something bigger, something great, something that can only get better. I could live where the sky holds a mountain in its hands. Where storms come in low and black, pressing you to the earth, making you wonder what’s going on above. Where you can tramp through wet autumn woods while a north wind tears clouds from the newly whitened peak of Åreskutan like a Christmas present being unwrapped. Where one sunny day can make up for weeks of darkness, and clean air and fresh water are a right not a privilege. I could live where people laugh and smile not because they feel the need, but because they can’t help it. Where people live a little outside of the world not because they reject it, but because they care so passionately for it. I could live here because I like lingonberries and reindeer and even Volvos. But mostly I like people who might be uncertain about everything else, but very certain about why they live in a place like this. Whenever I’m in Åre, I think of the taxi driver. I know his monster wasn’t real, but it still has meaning. Monsters are an expression of our most deeply cherished ideas: the unknown, wilderness, endless possibility, something to believe in. And if we ever actually found a monster, it would be over—nothing unknown, no more possibility. Some people invent monsters because they want to believe anything is possible. The rest of us, to make it simpler, just move to the mountains. — LESLIE ANTHONY

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”I COULD LIVE WHERE PEOPLE LAUGH AND SMILE NOT BECAUSE THEY FEEL THE NEED, BUT BECAUSE THEY CAN’T HELP IT.”

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Åre — magnificent all year around

Åre have some of the best hiking in Scandinavia, and a wealth of mountain biking in and around Mt Åreskutan — the type that draws aficionados from across the globe. And we all know Åre as a world class ski resort. Sun, scenery, satisfaction and adventures. Welcome back! Anytime of the year. P H OTO M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N