Magasin Åre English Edition 2020

E N G LI S H EDITION

2020

A YEAR-ROUND GUIDE

Hiking

In and around the Ã…re valley

SKIING

On piste, off piste, cross country

Biking

All the best trails, longer or shorter

The village

+

Touring Adventures Food & drinks Sights Tips & more...

EDITORIAL FREDRIK BOBERG JOHN CR AWFORD - CURRIE M AT T I S L I N D QV I S T LINA MYHR

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS LESLIE ANTHONY TOBIAS LILJEROTH

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS ANETTE ANDERSSON EMRIK JANSSON NICKLAS BLOM M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N G Ö S TA F R I E S JAMES HOLM JONAS KULLMAN O L A M AT S S O N OLA ROCKBERG NILS THOMASSON N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L ERIK WESTBERG RIKARD WESTLING

Magasin Åre English Edition 2020 is the result of a cooperation between Magasin Åre Publishing AB and Åre Destination AB. Magasin Åre is an independent product, published by Magasin Åre Publishing AB. Magasin Åre is a registered trademark.

Opinions presented by individual writers may not necessarily correspond to those of the editors. Even our own opinions may differ from the editors’. We assume no responsibility for unsolicited material.

E D ITO R I A L CO NTAC T Magasin Åre Årevägen 55 837 52 Åre – Sweden + 46 647 135 40 info@magasinare.com W W W. M AG A S I N A R E .C O M

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ANETTE ANDERSSON

C O V E R P H OTO N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

Authentic.

WE KNOW WHAT YOU’RE THINKING: Oh boy, that latest tourism buzzword again — cue the list of impossible attributes and earnest explanations of how nothing has changed and character still rules the roost.

Don’t worry, we won’t. That’s not us. We’re a northern town and pretence doesn’t fly around here. Besides, if you have to explain why a place is “authentic” you’ve already lost the plot. By definition, authenticity is self-explanatory, obvious, heartfelt. Whether Åre does or doesn’t fit that bill is not for us to say. Rather, it’s something we feel in our souls, so deeply that the notion to preserve it doesn’t even occur to us. That might tell you something.

So, no hard sell, no marketing mumbo jumbo.

The only way to decide for yourself is to visit.

Come by and hang out for a while. Live the way we do; we think you’ll like it.

That might not be the way to sell a place, but at least it feels... well... what’s that word again?

— LESLIE ANTHONY

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EMRIK JANSSON

CONTENTS

ANETTE ANDERSSON

G Ö S TA F R I E S

6.

ALPINE SKIING MAINLY WHAT WINTER IN ÅRE IS ALL ABOUT / ON AND OFF PISTE GUIDE

34 HIKING THE BEST IN SCANDINAVIA / SCENIC ROUTES JUST AROUND THE CORNER

16 XC SKIING & NORDIC SKI TOURING / AMAZING VIEWS IN AND AROUND ÅRE —

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52 FOOD & DRINKS INSPIRED FAST-FOOD & ”BIG-CITY DINING” / CRAFT BEER / FIKA

EMRIK JANSSON

58 SHOPPING LOCAL BRANDS / LOCAL SPECIALITIES / HANDICRAFTS AND JEWELRY

26.

BIKING ACTION-PACKED SUMMER ACTIVITY / DOWNHILL BIKING & XC BIKING —

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WINTER

Many things distinguish Åre from other ski resorts — atmosphere, food, nightlife — but the feature that really raises eyebrows is Mount Åreskutan, towering a very un-Swedish 1,000 metres above town and home to Scandinavia’s most legendary off-piste area: Baksidan.

P H OTO E M R I K J A N S S O N

THERE ARE MOUNTAINS , and there are

mountains — and then there are the “fjälls” of Scandinavia. Mount Åreskutan belongs in the latter category; a mighty chunk of rock standing as a landmark on the West Jämtland horizon since time immemorial.

Not clean-cut and chiselled like the Alps, but definitely taller, harsher and more undulating than the gently rounded hills in other parts of Europe. Åreskutan, in fact, is best described as angular and round, soft and hard, forgiving and unsparing all in the same moment.

FROM ÅRE SQUARE it’s a thousand vertical metres to the summit. This isn’t comparable to the tallest peaks in the Alps, of course, but a thousand vertical metres for off piste ski-

ing is more than enough for even the world’s best skiers. For better or worse, Åreskutan also lacks the glaciers, crevices and dangerous couloirs of taller massifs, meaning the off-piste skiing here is relatively safe despite the impressive vertical drop.

NUMBERS DON’T MAKE a ski resort, of course, but they certainly give some indication of the chances for good skiing. And in this case, theory matches reality. Åreskutan offers one of Scandinavia’s largest and most easily accessed off-piste areas. Here, on the northeastern section of Mount Åreskutan lies the wide, unexploited terrain of Baksidan — Swedish for ’The Backside” — one of the most famous and mythical runs in the country.

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EMRIK JANSSON

Off the back

WINTER M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N

Sometimes snow will lie deep on the summit though not a single flake has reached the town.

THERE ARE PLENTY OF off-piste areas in other ski resorts around the world that are better, larger, longer and more snow-sure than Baksidan. But since Åre is Scandinavia’s best ski resort, nothing else in the country compares with Baksidan — an area large enough, long enough, and sufficiently steep to offer real challenge. it’s also easy enough to reach that anyone can get there without major effort.

THIS SAME EASE-OF-ACCESS can be a potential problem for the unwary. Like any off-piste area, it’s dangerous enough out there that a mistake in the wrong place can lead to serious consequences. Unless you have full control of your skiing and equipment, as well as good knowledge of backcountry travel, avalanches and avalanche rescue, you’ll be out of your depth in Baksidan and shouldn’t venture there on your own. Which isn’t to say that it’s completely out of reach to the inexperienced: simply contact one of the excellent ski guides in the area for a safe tour.

IT ISN’T NECESSARY (nor even desirable) to wait for a day following a snowfall to make conditions in Baksidan good. What goes on out there — an entirely different world 1,000 metres above the valley — is extremely diffi-

cult to predict. Weather conditions that may have dropped 30 cm of loose powder across the pistes on the other side of the mountain may have blown in hard on Baksidan, packing into shimmering snowscapes of rockhard crust. Sometimes snow will lie deep on the summit though not a single flake has reached the town. When the thermometer shows -20°C at the square, the temperature on the summit during an “inversion” might be an astounding +5°C. And, more often of course, vice versa.

ONE THING YOU CAN predict is that over

the course of any winter, the weather on Åreskutan will cover the full spectrum from blasting hurricanes to basking spring sun. Though where and when is anyone’s guess, at least this much is certain: to stroll the short bit from the top of the lifts to the summit with skis on your shoulder, then make a long, delightful run in Baksidan and on down to the town via Lillskutan or Östra Ravinen, is an optimal ski experience.

Aesthetics, physical exertion, concentration and adrenaline — all come in one practical package in Sweden’s largest and most easily reached off-piste area.

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OPTIMAL OFF PISTE BAKSIDAN The

classic off-piste run on Mt Åreskutan.

There are several runs to choose from. Stay eastbound from the summit and make sure not to ski to the very bottom. Instead, stay high southbound across Lillskutan and Hällfjället. Continue down to the top station of the Tottliften and back to town. VÄSTER­ SKUTAN The chunk of rock hovering above you as you’re getting in line for Tväråvalvsliften.

Observing the rockclad slope, dedicate a thought to the Duved ski patroller who, during the 1980s, ran the piste in a kayak. We seem to remember it as a painful experience. Skiing here is good and well worth the effort. Wait for the right weather and ask someone reliable for the right route. ÖSTRA RAVINEN Some twenty years ago, this was a radical run; today, just hours after a snowfall it will be transformed into a mogul field. So be there early, but take it easy and choose your drop-in carefully; there are various degrees of difficulty. The run concludes with a lactic-acid inspiring run down the Susabäcksravinen to Fjällgården. SVARTBERGET Don’t even think about entering this area before you’ve had a good, long talk with someone in the ski patrol. In the right conditions it’s a great run, taking the long, steep slopes down Västra Ravinen in big, wide turns.

In the wrong conditions it’s avalanche-prone and extremely dangerous. The entire slope is skiable but the run gets longer and steeper the further out you go along the ridge.

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WINTER EMRIK JANSSON

The eastern ravine

Or as we call it — Östra — is undoubtedly Sweden’s most legendary off piste run.

IT ISN’T BECAUSE it’s the best or most spectacular run in Sweden. While under the right circumstances the Östra Ravine provides for a prime off-piste run, it’s neither powder orgies nor wildly ticking altimeters for which the tiny crease between Musberget and Lillskutan has become legendary.

Instead, the fame of Östra Ravinen stems from its indisputable status as the foremost test of manhood in all of Swedish freeriding.

AVALANCHE DANGER ASK: Avalanche danger is omnipresent in the mountains and you should always consult with lift personnel, other skiers, and, most importantly, ski patrol familiar with recent weather and conditions. RESPECT: The avalanche-risk scale indicates the level of risk. On a scale of five, level three means a substantial risk.

Listen to people in the know and respect boundary ropes — they’re not just there for appearances.

Along the western ridge of the ravine runs a long majestic cornice. As the season proceeds, the cornice grows larger and larger, nourished by snowfalls and Atlantic winds. By April it’s generally grown big enough to accommodate a minor sports hall underneath. Further up in the ravine, the cornice is transformed into prickly bands of rock, interspersed with icy strings of snow.

Below the cornice and the rocks opens a

COMPANY: If you’re skiing on

slopes. Trust your gut — turn back if you experience bad vibes.

RESPONSIBILITY: Never tempt inexperienced skiers to accompany you off-piste. Children and beginners are just as happy on the pistes. EQUIPMENT: It goes without saying — though we’ll say it anyway — that you should never venture off piste without avalanche safety equipment. These include a transceiver (a radio transmitter/receiver enabling you to both search and be found), a shovel, a probe, a cellphone (make sure you know what number

your own and get pulled into an avalanche, chances are high that no one will miss you until it’s too late. When skiing off-piste, always ski in pairs or larger groups.

CHECK: Learn why, where, how and when avalanches develop so that you can better avoid them. A rapid change in temperature, for instance, is a silent alarm to avoid avalanche terrain. THINK: The fact that someone just skied an area before you does not imply it’s safe. Choose less-exposed areas like forest runs and low-angle

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long, flat snowfield producing an almost perfect landing spot for airborne extreme skiers.

Here you’ll find features for all skill levels, from novice to international pro — all concentrated into a spectator-friendly hub in the middle of the ski area. Behind the genial design are millions of years worth of weather, continental glaciation, and the stubborn erosion efforts of a solitary brook.

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to dial if something happens) and first-aid kit. Outerwear that features Recco reflectors are also recommended as this is the system the ski patrol uses during searches.

IF AN AVALANCHE OCCURS

call 112 at the slightest suspicion

that people might have been involved. If you are absolutely certain no people were involved, call 0647-130 91 and inform the ski patrol of the situation.

WELCOME TO ÅRE IN THE SUMMER! Welcome to Holiday Club - the sports hotel in Åre and the celebration of an active life.

Enjoy your stay with us and everything we offer; free entry to our state of the art gym with panorama views of the mountains and free entry to our swim world.

When you stay with us we also invite you to our FREE hiking, kayaking and other sports activities. www.holidayclub.se // info.are@holidayclub.se

We a re th e o ff ic ia l p a rt n er h o te l to Å re B ike Fe s ti va l, Swedeman E x tre m e Tri a th lo n a n d m a ny o th e r eve n ts in th e v il la g e!

WINTER

O L A M AT T S O N

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Ahead of the carve

Red or blue? We’re not talking politics here but something far more important: a place to make the perfect turn. Åre’s eastern section contains some of the best carving pistes in northern Europe — wide, varied, red-blue beauties capable of satisfying even the most discerning aficionado.

WHAT DOES YOUR DREAM RUN LOOK LIKE? Chances are it’s a fall-line screamer tilted at 35 degrees, with a solid base covered in light powder that billows overhead as you roll over berms and sidehills in a high-speed, leg-burning descent. Instead of finding this in some backcountry idyll, however, it’s more likely to come true on a piste — what’s called a cruiser in some circles, a groomer elsewhere. But here’s the thing: skiing a perfect cruiser without new snow, when it’s freshly groomed corduroy, can be just as thrilling — sometimes more so. The G-forces you pull while carving corduroy are enough to excite a NASA scientist. There’s something magical about crossing the fall-line with your edges slicing across those forgiving parallels, knowing that the combination of speed, edging, and gravity will keep your body suspended only centimetres above them.

THE SKI WORLD IS FULL OF superb cruisers, often overlooked in the current craze for steep, deep and off-piste adventure. But the dream of a perfect corduroy run is out there, and Åre is one of the bets places on earth to find it.

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WINTER

Perfect carving pistes VÄSTRA BJÖRNEN Rolling and gentle, wide and white — that’s how we’d describe Åre’s hottest area for inspirational carving. An optimal carving setting has been created here by making use of the area’s natural elements. Made one run here you’ll doubtless want to make many more. In the area around Sadelexpressen are some fine, newly expanded pistes with ideal gradients and few skiers. Take a run here in the morning sun. GÄSTRAPPET Åre’s best run, with just the right gradient and length. To get the

most from it in corduroy conditions, either get there first thing in the morning, or early for night-skiing. This is a fun, fast run — just remember to be careful at the crossings and watch for fellow skiers. LUNDSRAPPET This piste parallels the VM8 lift. It starts with a very steep section (a fall here would see you slide far before coming to a stop) before the run continues less steeply towards the WSC-arena. The piste is wide and floodlit for classic night skiing. STENDALEN This short piste served by a T-bar may run a bit

O L A M AT T S O N —

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off-camber, but it’s still adored. There’s something special that attracts local piste riders to Stendalen — perhaps it’s also an ideal place to test your new carving skis?

TOTTBACKEN A long and relatively wide forest run with a good gradient, it runs across terraces alternating between steep and notso-steep. DUVED/TEGEFJÄLL Don’t forget these gems — easily reached via ski bus shuttle! Wide (at least Duved), rolling slopes with perfect carving gradient, the pistes aren’t too crowded and very child friendly.

Duved’s efficient chairlift makes it easy to spin laps. Great night skiing.

N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

Thanks to the world class lighting system, VM8:an opens at 8.00 a.m every day.

Corduroy mornings are the best mornings.

Bright idea

Does Åre offer the world’s best night-skiing? Probably.

Nowhere else can you find a more illuminating cruise through the dark.

ERIK WESTBERG

THE DRESS CODE for the night shift is well thought out and functional. The best outfit is one that keeps you warm on the way up but doesn’t make you sweat as you’re working your way down. And when it comes to goggles, think light-yellow — not mirror — lenses. Rumour has it that the floodlights in Gästrappet are so bright you can see them from the moon. Perhaps there’s something to it: during the 2007 FIS Alpine World Ski Championships, several of the technical disciplines were staged here as night races, and that takes serious illumination.

You might want to stick with your piste skis until the softer snow conditions of spring. Only a rare few can get away with rocking a pair of fat skis in the lift queue on a fast-and-firm night in January.

(These are either sponsored skiers, people who want you

THERE ARE FEW THINGS more fun than the first few evenings of night-skiing in Hamrebacken, near Duved. Especially since night-skiing is typically already possible by late November, and almost always by the St. Lucia weekend. This means that in Åre during this traditional festival of lights you can experience roundthe-clock skiing. Gästrappet

sparkles as bright as a diamond as the mid-winter darkness settles over the area. Use the break between day and night to grab a free lussebulle (saffron bun) and a cup of glögg (mulled wine) in the on-slope restaurant Svartberget Café & Restaurang, and you’ll soon be warm enough for a few more hours of turning in the crisp cold of early season nights .

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to think they’re sponsored, or simply residents of Åre).

FIGHTING TO BE at the head of the queue a half hour before night-skiing starts at 6 p.m. is all well and good, but it’s better to let the real keeners run ahead while you pick your way through the wave of skiers to your own personal patch of snow.

At this time of day, everyone is king of the hill. You’re rarely a better skier than at night; the piste is freshly groomed, you can see every single detail in the snow, and every crease in the corduroy points straight down a long corridor of light to the bottom. So go fast. Surrounding you is sheer darkness. You and your mates mere flashes on the slopes.

Happy. Liberated.

WINTER N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

A serene oasis

Ullådalen — ­ a wilderness area only 10 minutes from Åre town square.

THIS IS THE VALLEY of the Norse ski god, Ullr, with the crystal clear river (in Swedish, å) bubbling beneath the snow; hence the name Ull-å-dalen. Ullådalen is vast enough to offer a genuine wilderness feeling — even for those who’ve visited remote Rapadalen in Sarek, way up in northern Sweden. Still sufficiently small to feel safe, even for beginners whose only experience of mountaineering are confused

nocturnal rambles between the Club Bygget and Åre town square.

Located between the imposing peaks of Åreskutan and Mullfjället, with the Skäckerfjällen massif on the horizon, Ullådalen is a giant in its own right — though a rather timid one. There are no sharp rock formations or brutal, alpine aesthetics; only a soft, undulating, white Eldorado for ordinary folks hoping to revel in some pristine nature.

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Ski-touring or cross-country skiing?

Pack a picnic or enjoy delightful waffles in Lillåstugan? A three-day bivouac tour or half an hour of skating on refrozen trail just before après-ski? Whatever you choose, it works in Ullådalen, a wilderness gem only 10 minutes by car from the busy centre of Sweden’s largest ski resort.

Vita Renen.

Waffle huts

Toppstugan.

LILLÅSTUGAN Åre’s closest waffle experience can be found in Lillåstugan, a mere two kilometres from Ullådalen’s parking lot. The easy trip out makes it a perfect experience — even with young children. VITA RENEN The celebrated restaurant “White Reindeer” — located on Renfjället above Edsåsdalen’s lift system. In addition to dinner, it also serves waffles and lunch food throughout the winter. YTTERST­ VALLENS FÄBOD Take a ski trip to an old pasturing hut, located 4.5 kilometres from Trillevallen, six kilometres from Ottsjö, and eight kilometres from Edsåsdalen (after going over Grofjället). Open from February to Easter. Fantastic waffles in an unplugged, off-grid environment. FRÖÅ GRUVA Park your car in Årebjörnen and ski the beautiful 10-kilometre track at the old mine Fröå Gruva. After five kilometres, make a left to Fröå Gruva and take a break for a waffle in Bergstugan. It’s also possible to park at Fröå and ski in from there. Oh, yes — they’re also open in summer; take a hike (the ski track f.i.) or explore the old mining area before lunch. TOPPSTUGAN At the top of Åreskutan. Hike the last bit up to the top or buy a ticket and get towed by a snowmobile. Sandwiches, “fika” and waffles. Oh, and a 360 view of Jamtland.

DIY WAFFLES

Craving a waffle but maybe not the effort required to get to a waffle hut?

The easiest solution is to buy some waffle mix and do it yourself. The basic taste and texture are all right, but les connoisseurs may want to use Vichy water and more cream in their mix.

The basics for classic waffles (7–9 fills of the waffle-iron) 3 dl of wheat flour 2 dl cold water or Vichy water 3 dl cream Salt to taste Whisk the flour and water until smooth. Melt the butter into the batter (save some butter

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for the waffle iron). Beat the cream thick and mix in as well.

Add salt to taste. Make sure the waffle iron is hot before pouring in the batter. Place approximately 1 dl of batter into the iron at a time. Cook 2–3 minutes. Serve immediately with your favourite toppings!

WINTER N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

Alpine ski-touring THERE’S SOMETHING INFINITELY more satisfying about making turns down something you’ve climbed up yourself. And that’s why ski-touring — where climbing skins are attached to the skis for better traction on ice and snow, then taken off at the top — is currently the biggest growth

sector in winter outdoor recreation. Naturally, earning your turns is popular in and around Åre these days, with Snasahögarna, Sylarna and Åreskutan representing just a few of dozens of possibilities.

You can rent touring equipment in Åre if you don’t have your own, but don’t

forget to bring the most important items for backcountry safety — avalanche equipment, water or hot drinks, extra garments, and mobile phone. Perhaps the most important safety item, of course, is to hire a guide.

If you want to ski the whole Blåstensvalvet — and not cut out after half the ride to get back to the lift — make sure to pack your skins and take another run while you’re back here. You could also head west on the TOURING TIPS long, flat, lovely walk to Västerskutan. There you can choose between descending to Huså, skiing the Tväråvalvet or heading back towards ÅRESKUTAN

the Stendalsliften. VÄSTERSKUTAN You can also reach the Västerskutan by angling out into the Tväråvalvet from Kabinbanan's top station.

Traverse as far as you can before putting on the skins for an easy walk to the top. Whole days can be spent exploring the area down towards Huså. SNASAHÖGARNA Only five kilometres from Åre, Getryggen, Storsnasen, and both Sönner and Norder Tväråklumparna have become something of a centre for backcountry skiing. The Getryggen is probably one of Sweden’s top ski-touring peaks. Once on the summit you can choose the long ride down to Storulvåns Mountain Station, or the often harsh north side of Getryggen. A range of other options also awaits.

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Borderline alpinism Only 45 minutes from Åre town square is Sylarna, one of Sweden’s best-known massifs — whose summit lies in Norway.

QUICK AND EASY access with a mere 16 kilometres of gently sloping marked trail from Storulvån makes this area one of the most visited in the mountains of Sweden.

Climbing Syltraversen Ridge in good conditions offers no major difficulties, but because it’s an alpine environment, weather and wind may swiftly change the situation, one of the main reasons a guide is recommended. Irrespective of conditions, equipment should always include

crampons, ice-axes, ropes and anchors for snow, ice and rock.

Start the climb from the right-hand side of Templet, moving up towards Tempel Ridge and following it to the first pinnacle.

The last bit to the top is where most climbers rope up for the first time. From the top, what remains is a brief abseil down to another two pinnacles and an unaided — but easy — walk to the Djävulskammen (The Devil’s Ridge) which will take you up to

Sylhammaren. From here there’s another tricky part where the climbing is easiest at the far edge of the Sylväggen face and the precipice down towards the glacier.

Once you’ve arrived at the 1,762-metre summit, the views are spectacular. In good weather, all the peaks — Åreskutan, Helags, Bunnerfjällen, and the trio of Getryggen, Tväråklumpen and Storsnasen — are within sight.

RIK ARD WESTLING

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WINTER

Cross-country cruising

Whether along valleys, through quiet woods, or over the fjälls, gliding on a well-groomed ski trail is a special experience. ÅRE’S MANY CROSS-COUNTRY TRAILS offer something for everyone — whether kids, first-timers, skiers who enjoy a relaxed tour, or those looking for a great training lap. The trails and tracks in Åre Björnen offer snow-safe cross-country skiing in sheltered forest terrain and are generally less hilly than the longer tracks in Duved. Of course, it’s also possible to combine any of the loops into your own creative variation. Lit each night until 10 p.m., parking is just past Årebjörnen Skidcenter, where the tracks start. Trail info and maps at www.aretrails.com

THE 7.5 K IN DUVED The local cross-country ski club calls this trail system home turf — and with good reason.

While you can choose between 2.5, 5 and 7.5 km lit trails, the 7.5 can be a pretty tough test, especially at the turnaround point on the loop, where you face a hellish uphill that the real pros like to train on again and again. You, of course, only have to do it once. Oh, and there are also 10 and 15 k trails…

THE 10 K IN BJÖRNEN This is a trail that can fool you into thinking you’re a world champ. Smooth and rolling, with no really hard uphills (or downhills) and almost always in excellent condition. As if this wasn’t gentle enough on your ego, there are also similarly gratifying 3.5, and 7.5 km tracks. If you’re lucky, you might bump into Åre local Lina Korsgren, a winner of the prestigious Vasaloppet.

ULLÅDALEN If you’re looking for something that delivers majestic wilderness close to town, you can do no better than this. Located in the depression between Mullfjället and Åreskutan, the tracks are mostly above treeline and so at their best in nice weather. Take a look at aresweden. com/en/touring-trails/ to see which one is the best bet for your level of skiing (and commitment).

G Ö S TA F R I E S

THE 10 K IN STORLIEN Another trail that’s above treeline, this one is a Magasin Åre favourite — even though it’s located about 60 kilometres from town.

But no worries, there’s reason enough to make the drive: in addition to being a wonderful ski experience, this track caters to the royal court of Sweden, so you might be lucky enough to glimpse the King of Sweden beating himself up on the trail.

THE SAPPORO TRACK, VÅLÅDALEN This is the toughest track in western Jämtland.

Originally built for the Swedish National Team to train on as it was preparing for the 1972 Sapporo Winter Olympics, it features (of course) several steep uphills, but, oddly enough, even steeper downhills.

Winding its way through white birch forests the Sapporo track has been referred to as “super beautiful but super hard”.

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Heart and, yes, a little bit of soul For youth, the Park remains the heart of the ski universe.

Indeed, no other venue of such limited space is so imbued with the joy of skiing or matters as much as this.

“WHAT’S THE PARK LIKE?” This is the first question Kalle, age 14, was asked by his mates after returning from his mountain holiday. Were the jumps tricky enough? The landings steep enough? Was the distance between the box and dance floor alright?

This is park terminology. It doesn’t relate to the distance between the VIP room and the nightclub. If you missed this, don’t be discouraged — we can hardly keep up ourselves. No worries, though: as long as we understand how essential Kalle and his mates are to the future of alpine skiing, we don’t need to grasp the details of their passage.

Instead, we join the spectators on the road leading to Rödkullen. Here we’re ringside to the show in Åre Snow Park — a perfect view over the mighty quartet of booters that constitute the black line. The

first jump requires 20 metres of air simply to clear the plateau. The jumps’ impressive dimensions give riders plenty of air time; rotations of 360, 540 or 720 degrees are easy to make out even for an untrained eye.

The best riders are in total control in the air. Some even leave the lip of the jump in the middle of a turn and drift several metres sideways before landing, cat-like, where the outrun starts to slope downhill. What seems athletic, expressive and flippant all in the same moment, and makes your hair stand on end as a spectator, is simply called style by the riders. It’s often hard even for an experienced spectator to grasp what’s actually happening in the air, but again, you don’t need to understand everything to be impressed.

Just know that for many youth, the park remains the heart of the ski resort.

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The place where the most important things happen, the venue where new skiing evolves. Indeed, no other place on the mountain with such a limited space is so imbued with joy, or demonstrates such creativity. After all, though every jump angle may now be designed with the help of a protractor, every transition shaped with loving care, and every rail kinked for a reason, what purpose do a piano and a rowboat serve in the so-called “wood line”? Who on earth transported such large, iconic items all the way up the hill? Shouldn’t these venerable objects have a more-dignified, less-abusive ending in a messy old barn ?

Why? we might say, in wonder. Only to hear Why not? come back from somewhere deep within the Åre Snow Park.

JAMES HOLM

Yes, snowboarders are also welcome.

WINTER

Perfecta Trifecta Hosting an Alpine World Championship is a great honour — hosting three a crowning achievement.

The star of -54, Stein Eriksen. Åre's very own Sarah Thomasson placed third in slalom.

World Championship #1

1954 28 FEBRUARY it will be exactly 66 years since the opening fanfare of the 1954 FIS Alpine World Ski Championships echoed through the Åre Valley.

The well-organized competition proved extremely popular with locals and still ranks as one of the biggest sporting events in Åre’s storied history. During Ingemar Stenmark’s unforgettable streak as a World Cup icon in the 1970s, FIS races in Åre attracted huge crowds, but already in 1954, the number of ticket-buying enthusiasts exceeded 20,000 — with an equal number

watching the races from sunny hillsides out of reach of ticket vendors.

Although the Swedes had yet to field any stars of Stenmark’s calibre in those days, Stig “Solla” Sollander from Östersund did a good job of defending the country’s honour with a 7th place in Slalom, a 7th in Giant Slalom, and a 9th in the Downhill (after which he famously remarked “I could have skied faster, but I have a wife and kids at home...”). It was enough for a 3rd overall and the bronze medal in Alpine Combined.

Among the ladies, local Sarah Thomasson showed best with a 3rd place in slalom.

The star of the 1954 World Champions-

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hips was Norwegian Stein Eriksen, who had previously wowed the ski world at the 1952 Oslo Winter Olympic Games. With victories in both Special and Giant Slaloms in Åre, and an 8th place in the Downhill — despite a crash! — he topped the men’s results list, handing him the Alpine Combined. With three gold medals, the chiseled looks of an American movie star, and a considerable share of a shipping fortune in his back pocket, he would be a ladies favourite for many years to come. In Deer Valley, the Utah ski resort where he lived until his death in 2015, he’s still considered royalty.

G Ö S TA F R I E S

World Championship #2

2007 The new arena was completed for the competitions in 2007.

MUCH HAD HAPPENED since Åre last hosted the Alpine World Championships in 1954, when 24 nations and 20,000 ticket buyers converged on the town.

The World Championship 2007 expected to attract 60 nations and 100,000 spectators. Did someone say “party”?

On 3 February 2007, the world was looking at Åre, which was now mentioned with the same reverence as legendary ski resorts like Cortina, St. Moritz and Kitzbühel. The ambition was, of course, to secure Åre’s place at the absolute peak among organizers and create the biggest and most pioneering winter sports event ever. And the organizers indeed flexed their muscles: 190 million SEK was spent on the new arena and the festival was crowned by an impressive lineup of Scandinavian and international artists, exhibitions and events, and television shows broadcast onsite. Swedish skier Anja Pärsson ruled with a bronze and three gold medals. Also worth mentioning is Maria Pietilä-Holmner’s silver in Giant Slalom and Patrik Järbyn wrapping up his career with a 3rd place in the men’s Downhill.

G Ö S TA F R I E S

World Championship #3

2019

BY NOW, HOSTING HUGE EVENTS was almost old hat to the Åre crowd. From the 4-17 February 2019, the village embraced its third FIS Alpine World Ski Championships. Åre revelled in success and experience — its infrastructure and finish area were now world class, while the familiar atmosphere of the village, the proximity of everything, and the unparalleled party life was a thing to take pride in. “We’ve refined the WSC concept from 2007 and plan to go from good to great” Niklas Carlsson, CEO at ÅRE2019 had said before the event. And he couldn’t have been more correct.

Queen of the champinchip was Michaela Schiffrin (who else?) with her three medals. Notably for theese games was Lindsey Vonns and Aksel Lund Svindals participation; they both competed for the last time and doing so with a medal each.

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SPRING

Vårvinter rising

Summer is coming. But first, the best kept secret of the high northern hemisphere — “the fifth season”.

EVERYONE LOOKS FORWARD TO SUMMER, but here in Åre we’re happy to take our time getting there. That’s why Vårvinter (literally, spring-winter) the “fifth season” is our best-kept secret. It isn’t something we hide — in fact the national weather

service even uses the term. But it happens most often in the mountains, and lasts longer the farther north you go. It’s a hard-todescribe hybrid — winter up high, spring down low, and the comfort of softer snow and longer days, warmer temperatures and

good visibility. This makes Vårvinter the best time for ski-touring. In fact, in places like Åre you can ski in the morning and then later go for a paddle on the lake or ride your bike. Sounds great, right? Just don’t tell anyone...

N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

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N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

ANETTE ANDERSSON

Spring highlights

SUN PIT HANGOUTS Pack your backpack with coffee, a shovel and a sleeping mat. Dig a pit and enjoy the sun for the rest of the day – good chocolate and oranges are always a classic accessory. P.S. Don’t forget the sunscreen! BACKSIDE TO HUSÅ A fun skiing adventure is a trip to the small, genuine ski area Gruvbacken in Huså, located on the backside of Mt. Åreskutan. Go up or get towed to the top and from there follow the marked ski trail to Huså. The trail has different degrees of difficulty, but with some moderate ski skills you’ll make it down without any problems. Enjoy lunch at the Den Djupa Gruvans Krog and take a ride in Huså before the snowcat takes you back to Stendalsliften in Åre’s ski system. OUT ON TOUR There are few ways to experience the soothing ways of the mountains as when you’re touring.

Embark on your own journey in the mountains and enjoy the solitude and silence of the magnificent environments at your own pace.

You’ll find several enjoyable touring trails in Ullådalen, Vålådalen and Edsåsdalen. APRÈS-SKI After a long day on the ski slopes, it’s almost a must to experience Åre’s après ski – live bands, ski boots and loads of crazy energy. If you prefer a quieter pace, visit the restaurants surrounding the square. A great location and sun-drenched balconies. ICE FISHING Buy a fishing license and pack your backpack with coffee and something to sit on. Trout and Char are found in almost all waters, but some recommendations are Greningen. You can reach Greningen from Duved, or easily from Lake Åresjön. If you’re lucky, you’ll be bringing home dinner! SKATE SKIING IN ULLÅDALEN After a cold night comes the perfect morning for skate skiing throughout the mountains and across its beautiful landscape. A classic spot is in Ullådalen! Why not make it an evening tour — the long spring days are bright until aprox. 9.00 pm! ÅRE SESSIONS Our very own music festival. The last weekend of the season (May 3 is the last day of lift carried skiing) Åre Sessions returns for the fourth time. The village is filled with ”pop-up events” and conserts. Your ski pass is also your festival pass!

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SUMMER

SENsOry OVeRLOAd

From barren rocks, to woody forest trails, to crazy drops, mountain biking on Mt. Åreskutan offers a veritable feast of downhill sensations. ÅRE’S HEALTHY mountain bike scene is the result of decades of curiosity among bikers searching out new high-adrenaline adventures on the mountain. Back in the 1980s, it’s rumoured, someone dragged a prehistoric mountain bike into the cable car, planting the seed for what is today one of the world’s top biking resorts. The identity of this pioneer is unknown, but there are many who’d like to claim the title. At the time, only hiking paths ran down from the peak of Åreskutan, and the combination of rock, vegetation, and minimal (if any) suspension must have made the downhill ride anything but comfortable.

As biking grew in popularity throughout the 1990s, construction started on the first 1,000-vertical-metre downhill trail.

Although many other paths and trails have been added since then, this original route still attracts with a unique, stubborn character found nowhere else. The same sentiment applies to the flat barren rocks that dominate the rest of Åre’s upper zone.

Perhaps strangely, riding a narrow trail can be a relaxing pastime — or at least Zen-like. With your focus entirely on the trail in front of you, keeping disaster at bay, you experience an extreme sensation of living in the moment. Things you can’t affect right now become meaningless — only the trail dictates your status, your way forward. And yet this tight perspective also harbours opportunity for decision: as

you plan your route ahead, a ten-centimetre difference might determine whether you exit a curve with speed, or come to a dead stop.

IN SOME WAYS, these singletrack trails reflect the soul of Åreskutan. Formed by years of wear-and-tear by shoe soles and bike tires, by hands loaded with shovels and saws stubbornly shaping the ground and terrain, a certain character has evolved in these paths.

But present-day mountain-biking can also benefit from something else — a more “organized” adventure, designed and controlled by us but in accordance with our modern concept of respecting nature; a smoother ride without roots or deep mud where the handiwork is accomplished by machines. Åre has always been populated by people with minds open to outside ideas, ready to import, adopt and adjust the best from other parts of the world. Hence, when rumours reached Åre of “A-Line” — a crazy, buff, high-speed track in Canada’s Whistler resort — it was a given that a similar roller-coaster ride would be built on Åreskutan.

Soon enough, excavators were onsite to create banked curves and high jumps.

The result was Flinbanan — the Grin Course — named for the wide smiles produced on bikers’ faces. It immediately became the Åre Bike Park’s main and most-ridden path.

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A FEW YEARS LATER the machines were back on the mountain, aiming even higher with a generous budget from an important sponsor. The result was the 3.3-kilometre-long Shimano trail from the World Cup Trail down to the base station of the VM6 lift. Stacked with banked curves and jumps so large that one has been named Matterhorn, the trail offers a five-minute, high-speed ride with all your senses at their most attentive.

We’ve now burned down seven kilometres of world-class trails on Mt. Åreskutan, through three completely diverse environments — flat rocks, hand-hewn forest paths, and machine-built trails. A trilogy of character and attitude; a buffet of the best biking available, ready to be consumed separately or, better, in combination.

THIS FEAST OF SENSATIONS need not end at the cable-car base station, however, as this can be just a transfer point en route to the next treat. On the other side of the mountain await the rocks of Hällrajd, the high-speed cruising in Hjulingen, and the enchanting Bräckebäcksleden trail. If you hear people claim that Åre is best in the summer – chances are they’re a mountain biker.

Read more at aresweden.com

EMRIK JANSSON

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SUMMER EMRIK JANSSON

Åreskutan is home to a vast and varying network of great mountain bike trails, all of which add up to a bike park that is nothing short of world class.

THE ALPINE CLASSICS HÄLLRAJD and the 1000-meter

Trail are two of the oldest trails on the mountain, dating back to the mid 90’s and the first mountain bike boom in town.

Hällrajd — a game of words: häll = rock slab, and rajd = ride.

More or less consists of one, continuous, steep rock slab from the top of the lifts the the Cognac Stone plateau, 700 rough meters further down. The trail consists of multiple line choices, some of which are nerve-wrecking even for the most experienced riders.

THE 1000-METER TRAIL , first opened in 1996 is the oldest, purpose built bike trail on Åreskutan. It winds its way down the rugged alpine zone in a series of switchbacks, linked together by a narrow, rocky singletrack.

Some locals are known to ride this trail hundreds of times every season, it is just that good – and addictive.

EASY RIDER A four kilometer long

rollercoaster ride winding its way from the top of the lifts down the wide open alpine zone. Easy Rider is a biking adventure for riders of all abilities that has no equal in Scandinavia. Simply a must-do for anyone visiting Åre in summer.

takes you from the very top of the lifts to the bottom of the bike park, a wild and magnificent ride dropping 900 vertical meters and covering 8 kilometers of distance.

The best riders in town ride it in under 20 minutes, what is your time?

MÅNSKOGEN & GETRAPPET

SHIMANO An absolute Åre classic

In fact two different trails, built in a similar style that are seamlessly connected and perfect to ride together in one, ecstatic go. This machine built singletrack is known for its (relatively) smooth surface and an abundance of turns. It is a trail combo that can be ridden by anyone, but gets increasingly harder the faster you try to go.

For maximum riding pleasure, it is a great idea to link Easy Rider and Organic with Månskogen and Getrappet to create a magic combination of trails that

and one of the most talked about mountain bike trails in Europe. Shimano is a, wide and smooth, machine built trail loaded with 50 big jumps and a seemingly endless number of fast, banked turns.

Some locals are known to only ride Shimano – day after day, week after week. Talk about a wild ride.

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COBRA Åre Bike Park’s latest addition is actually still under construction, but none the less already one of the most popular

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trails in the park. Blue to its grade and built by Åre Bike Park’s trail crew in collaboration with the wizards of Gravity Logic from Canada, Cobra offers beginners and intermediate riders a perfect introduction into the dizzying world of jumps and berms.

Its most prominent feature is though made out of wood, the massive 360-degree bridge Snurveln.

The summer of 2020 will see the completion of the first stage of the massive Cobra project down to the bottom of the VM8 lift, creating a unique bike adventure on this side of the Atlantic. A R E B I K E PA R K . C O M

EMRIK JANSSON

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SUMMER JONAS KULLMAN

Out there

Cross-country biking may not exactly be the new hiking, but it’s a great way to cover a lot of ground while getting a good workout.

The following are some trips you can make from Storulvån.

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MT. STORULVÅFJÄLLET A great summit trip of about eight kilometres. Follow the trail towards Blåhammaren and turn off toward Mt. Storulvåfjället about 300 metres past the picnic table. The trail meanders towards the summit and may feel tiring on the way up, but a reward awaits you on the downhill. In fact, you can roll almost all the way back to Storulvån.

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ULVÅTJÄRN A 12-kilometre trip following the trail towards Blåhammaren to the shelter at Lake Ulvåtjärn. The first three kilometres run uphill in

rocky terrain, but after that it levels out and becomes quite a pleasure.

riding to the shelter at Gåsån instead of Sylarna and returning via Tjallingen to Storulvån, and is about 30 kilometres on gravel roads and fine trails.

After Tjallingen follow the trail towards the Gåsen shelter for about 10 kilometres, where you may want to stop for a swim or something to eat before continuing. If you’re energetic, cross the river (you’ll get wet) and continue along the trail towards Sylarna. You can also go all the way to the Sylarna shelter and take the northbound road to Storulvån.

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ULVÅTJÄRN > ENKÄLEN > SYLARNA’S SHELTER > STORULVÅN A longer trip of about 36 kilometres. Begin the same as the trip above but continue to Enkälen — the shelter between Blåhammaren and Sylarna. From Enkälen ride to the bridge before Sylarna’s shelter and from there, take the road back to Storulvån.

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GÅSÅN’S SHELTER This alternative to the previous route involves

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BLÅHAMMAREN A trip of about 24

kilometres that is advanced in parts.

First make your way to the shelter at Ulvåtjärn and from there onwards to Blåhammaren. The uphill section is demanding and technically tricky, but you can always opt to walk your bike. The final three kilometres on the plateau are a fun, easy pedal. After some food and drink at the Blåhammarens Fjällstation (where you can also stay overnight) enjoy the long downhill ride back to Storulvån.

ÅRE VI LLAGE SQ UARE • SHOP TEL +46 6 47 52 000 • WWW.SKISTA R .COM

SUMMER EMRIK JANSSON

Ride easy The trail biking in Björnen is fun, easily accessed and perfect for the entire family.

THREE YEARS AGO, Åre set out to create an entirely new kind of mountain bike experience with the Åre Bike Park XC arena in Björnen, a network of cross-country trails suited for intermediate riders and families alike, where you earn your vertical through the ancient art of pedalling.

The project is a joint venture of Skistar, Åre Destination, the Swedish Ministry of Agriculture, and the European Agricultural Fund in cooperation with local land owners. Construction was carried out by Skistar’s experienced trails crew. “The idea was to provide an arena strictly for trail biking, something we haven’t yet been able

to offer in Åre,” explains Skistar ’s Niklas Jacobson, lead builder and head of operations in Björnen.

THE TRAIL BUILDERS focused on making trails to accommodate a wide cross-section of riders — from children and novices all the way up to the more experienced.

The relatively wide tracks make their way methodically across undulating terrain, with most obstacles removed for easier pedalling. Wet sections have been traversed by bridges, and drains put in strategic places to not only to keep the trail dry, but also reduce environmental damage. The

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youngest riders can cut their teeth in the purpose-built kids area in Vallelandet, before bringing their new-found skills to the longer trails. The trails are just as suited to light-weight cross country bicycles as sturdy enduro rigs with long-travel suspension.

THE CONCEPT PROVED to be an immediate success with both local riders and visitors.

As a result, the XC arena has shown itself to be the perfect alternative to the adrenaline-fuelled, lift-accessed downhill riding on Åreskutan, further establishing Åre as one of the world’s best mountain bike destinations. The next few years will see several new trails built in Björnen, expanding the current network as well as broadening the diversity of offerings with both easy trails and those for more advanced riders.

A brand new skills area is also in the works and will open during summer 2020. The future of biking in Åre is looking bright indeed, and it’s fuelled by people power.

Read more at aresweden.com

EMRIK JANSSON

A few favourites in Björnen: MINERALEN Åre is not all about riding lifts and going downhill. The newly built trail center in Björnen, Åre Bike Park XC, focuses on the pedal assisted part of mountain biking with a series of smooth, machine built singletracks for all ages. The most popular trail is the 3,8 kilometer Mineralen loop with

its twisting and turning climbs and flows downhill. It can easily be combined with the Kopparn trail, a 1 kilometer loop filled with fun turns, both up and down the hill.

STUBINEN The latest addition to the Björnen

trails is called Stubinen (all trail names in the

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network pays homage to the areas mining heritage), an intermediate trail but with a series of slightly more difficult alternative lines for more advanced riders and those looking to up their game in a safe way.

A R E B I K E PA R K . C O M

SUMMER

Don’t just navigate — circumnavigate!

Circling the hills can acquaint you with their true character, but there are many other types of hiking around Åre that will fulfill body and mind alike.

THE VIEW WESTBOUND towards Mt. Åreskutan — the one that charms you while driving the E14 where the landscape opens between Såå and Brattland — is for many the very symbol of Åreskutan.

The classic image includes the dramatic face of Blåsten pointing towards the northeast, an outline not dissimilar to the jut of Mt. LillStendalsfjället to the west of Vålådalen towards Stensdalsstugan.

Mt. Totthummeln is another well-known and typical formation, much like the shape of Mt. Åreskutan, reminiscent of an upside down boat.

Still, from this angle you cannot claim to know Mt. Åreskutan. You simply have no idea about its real size or beauty. If you want to get to know the mountain you should circle it, on foot.

That’s the way to grasp its true character. ÅRESKUTAN IS AN excellent mountain to circle.

The terrain is gentle and you can opt to follow paths and roads the entire way. The vast space it occupies also contributes to the experience, and besides encompassing the smaller Totthummeln and dramatic Blåsten, gathers in peaks

like Västerskutan, Rödkullen, Tväråvalvet, Mörvikshummeln and several others, each with their own individual character.

WHEN YOU COVER the distance around a mountain you experience multiple layers. The impressions of one side interact and blend with the impressions of the opposite side. And if you climb further up the slopes a new atmosphere appears. The barren surroundings contrast to the impression of the forests —like the acoustic feedback between the electric guitar’s microphone and the amplifier; a complex combination of brittle and depth.

THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS to the perfect circle when you are walking around a mountain. Make sure your senses are on edge; forget performance criteria. Sense the nerve cells separating to loosely spun webs promoting sensibility and openness. Look towards the summit and set off to the left or the right in a wide enwrapping movement. Soon you will notice that you are not only circling a mountain but relaxing and embracing your inner self...

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ANETTE ANDERSSON

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SUMMER ANETTE ANDERSSON

Summer summits SMALL SUMMIT TOUR This tour is suit-

able for families or those aiming for a visit to the summit without overexerting themselves. Ride the cable car up to the top station, from where Trail 214 sends you an 800-metre walk to Mt. Åreskutan’s 1,420-metre summit.

Patches of snow remain even in summer and hiking shoes or boots are recommended. Don’t forget the tradition of having a coffee in the Toppstugan café!

INTERMEDIATE SUMMIT TOUR Mt. Totthummeln is the characteristic peak rising above Tott Hotell. A hike around it on Trail 213 leads you through tall spruce, rich birch forests, and to inviting views.

BIG SUMMIT hike A full hike to the summit of Mt. Åreskutan on Trail 214 or 215 takes you from the lush valley at village level up into the bare alpine and may take a full day with its 1,000-vertical-metre rise. This hike isn’t technically difficult but requires good physical condition. If you value your knees, consider the free cable car ride back down.

More tours, trails and tips at aresweden.com and aretrails.com

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Pilgrimage

This coast-to-coast hike is one of Sweden’s best-kept secrets.

IT IS CALLED “SCANDINAVIA’S EL CAMINO”.

It stretches all the way from Selånger just outside Sundsvall in Sweden, through Åre, and ends in Trondheim, Norway. Wandering along the St Olavsleden trail is one of the most beautiful pilgrim experiences that Europe has to offer. In addition to magnificent scenery you will encounter

traces of history stretching over a millennium. Look out over the reindeer land from above, in Åre. Take the cable car to the top of Mt Åreskutan and gaze over the views as Olav did himself.

The St Olavsleden trail is based on Olav Haraldssons life story. He was born in 995 and devoted his life to Christian beliefs.

He was the first Norwegian king who established an administrative system and legal network that held the land together.

He also undertook several missionary expeditions to parts of the land that were not yet Christian. Eventually he lost the throne as he failed to convince some of the major decision makers in England. In 1030 he was killed, in Stiklestad, attempting to reconquer Norway.

A year after the battle of Stiklestad the bishop pronounced him a holy man with

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the support of the populace. His death for Christianity was seen as certain proof that he was Gods instrument. He was honoured as an apostle of Norway for completing the long process of Norway’s conversion to Christianity. This unique combination of martyr and apostle of perhaps the foremost reason why Olav gained such a strong and wide following.

The trail between Undersåker and Såå is the most popular one near Åre to hike.

It runs through forests and over meadow on the north side of the E14 before it turns down again following the old road to the treatment plant in Vik. For the pedestrians, the trail will make its way above E14 again to Åre village. Make sure to visit Åre old church where St Olav is depicted in wood.

Read more at stolavsleden.com

SUMMER

Run away!

Trail running offers one

of the best combinations of outdoor recreation, exercise and naturetherapy available. And Åre and the surrounding area tempts with a smorgasbord of options. From central Åre you can set off for a run around Mt. Totthummeln; or go to Vålådalen to run the Blanktjärnsrundan; or head to Storlien to test Blomsterstigen and onwards to Skurdalsporten. By the end of summer, you can even extend your runs by staying overnight in backcountry lodges and cabins.

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M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N

RUN UP! Vertical K

is a running challenge that rises a vertical kilometre up Mt Åreskutan over about five kilometres. The start is in Åre square and follows a brutal up-trail that often causes participants to question their decision to try it. Most soon forget all the lactic acid and pain, because it’s all about the correct mind set—right?

The course is open to anyone throughout summer. Buy a Vertical K pass at the Peak Performance store and enter your registration details before checking in at the square. If you reach the summit, have your pass stamped in the Toppstugan café. And while you’re there, maybe reward yourself with a fresh waffle. If the prospect of running all the way to the summit seems a bit much, start with the 0.5 K course that ends at Mt. Hummeln.

PPVERTICALK.SE

RUN DOWN!

If you’re hesitant at the prospect of running up Mt. Åreskutan, you can always try running down instead. A warning: you may not feel the strain during the actual activity, but oh, the day after... We all differ in how prone we are to suffering stiffness and aches in the aftermath of training, but most demonstrate impressive physical hangovers from downhill running.

So take it easy — especially if you’re uncertain of your knee stability. Hiking poles are a godsend for downhill running.

Downhill-running used to be the preferred exercise among young alpine ski racers, button it’s more popular to run uphill. But if you want to give your legs — and butt — a real challenge, you can mix uphill with downhill running into your training.

More trails and tips at aretrails.com and aresweden.com

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AUTUMN

Fall for autumn If you live in the northern hemisphere, you have a soft spot for autumn.

THIS GLORIOUS PAUSE BETWEEN SEASONS — when longer, colder nights draw summer’s vibrant green into a biochemical ballet of red, orange, and yellow — always sparks the imagination. Paddling a lake or hiking in the forest, new smells and new colours claw at your senses. When it’s sunny, the day is electric; but even if the sky is grey, fall still offers a pretty good wallpaper. We enjoy this show of pigments while we can because we know that once those leaves clamour to the ground, everything will fade to white.

The mountain world offers countless opportunities for undisturbed sleep DON'T MISS and magnificent sunrises and sunsets from the “bedroom window”. Go far SLEEP IN A TENT

or stay close by. Cycle, run or take a small detour with the car, pitch a tent and enjoy nature. Thanks to the Swedish right of public access, everyone has access to nature and to camping a few days out in the open. A fantastic opportunity that also involves taking responsibility and showing consideration to nature and to those who own and care about the land you are walking on and using. Keep up-to-date on fire bans through the County Administrative Board. NATURE’S PANTRY During the late summer and autumn, the mountain explodes in beautiful colours and nature’s pantry is endless. Although it’s difficult to look away from the beautiful views, do so anyway. Move your eyes down towards the ground where you stand — the mountain is a real gold mine. Chanterelles, cloudberries, blueberries and more. So divinely good and also super-healthy! ÅRE HÖSTMARKNAD (Åre Autumn Fair) The last weekend in September is sacred to all lovers of Åre and has been for almost fourteen years. There is no doubt the Åre Höstmarknad is the place to be. The village glows in autumn colours and the atmosphere is top notch. Over 100 vendors come here with genuine home-grown, home­made, craftsmanship and design. The focus is on locally produced food. The streets are filled with music and the village’s restaurants and shops are overflowing. Haven’t you been here yet? Then now’s the time.

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ANETTE ANDERSSON

YEAR-ROUND ACTIVITIES M AT T I A S F R E D R I K S S O N

Kayaking THE ÅRE AREA contains some of the best and most varied kayaking found anywhere. Mountain streams, rivers and some of Sweden’s most impressive waterfalls feed a vast network of lakes of all sizes.

To start, there’s an abundance of calm, flatwater paddling with nothing but time

to enjoy the embrace of the raw nature that surrounds. Åresjön (of course), Ottsjön, Ånnsjön and Indalsälven are top choices. If it’s whitewater you crave, dozens of excellent creeks and rivers offer something for all paddling styles — from wave-surfing to wild rapids and waterfall drops.

Long and narrow, Åresjön extends from the Indalsälven outlet in the Tegefjäll area to the streams at Stenvallen in KAYAKING TIPS Brattland. Paddling the entire lake is rewarding enough, but you can spice it up with a detour ÅRESJÖN

up to the roaring Tegeforsen, then turn around and let the heavy flow push you back to the river’s inlet. ÅNNSJÖN The shallow Ånnsjön offers a small archipelago with great opportunities for tent accommodation, both on islets and beaches. Here you can paddle for days at a time and always find beautiful new spots. Discover Enan River as it meanders up the mountains. Another nice detour is into Rekån River, where you enter untouched wilderness.

HENSJÖN To the west of Edsåsdalen lies Hensjön, with its ease of access for kayaks. Paddle along lengthy beaches until you reach the beautiful and wild Gullfinnsån River, which you can paddle up for a few kilometres. KALLSJÖN Kallsjön is so large that paddling on it almost has the feel of being on the ocean. Maybe not a place for beginners, but a great place for skilled paddlers to practice longer crossings. TORRÖN This is a regulated lake far in the north. Cross the lake and paddle towards Skäckerfjällen. Camp on any beach you want and discover the joys of camp life in the middle of nowhere. OTHER LAKES Gevsjön, Bodsjön, Öster-Noren and Väster-Noren. All are nice to paddle and close to roads. Another hidden gem is Lake Liten at Järpen, a large-ish waterbody with fine fishing.

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Whitewater rafting is one of the more RAFTING thrilling outdoor experiences in the area. Åre (as usual) offers optimal waters for it: Gevsjöströmmarna has the steepest rapids for commercial rafting in the country; the Vålån River stuns paddlers with a sudden waterfall; Tångböleströmmarna flows with the snow-clad massif Snasahögarna as a backdrop.

The size of the rafts varies depending on the size of the group, which can range from four to ten on board. At the rear sits the guide, steering and delivering orders — hopefully gently. The applicable minimum age varies with the class of whitewater you descend. Water temperature on all routes, however, rarely reaches 18˚C.

N I C K L A S B LO M

Dog-sledding WHETHER YOU PREFER a couple of hours, a full day, or a week-long tour, local dogmushers can deliver your preferred way of experiencing the Call of the Wild. Åre and its surrounding mountains are ideal for

dog-sledding tours. As the pack runs you through forest, trees fly past and the sled skids wildly. In more alpine regions, the vast expanses and views to bare mountains provide equally strong impressions.

In either case, you’ll appreciate interacting with the dogs —whether helping to push the sled on steep, uphill runs, or braking on downhills to avoid clipping the rearmost dog.

Imagine swishing through and above treetops at speeds up to 70 kph, suspended in the air but completely safe. Securely strapped in a sling, hanging from a one-man cableway, zip-lining is certain MORE ADVENTURES to stir both your senses and the butterflies in your stomach.

Want to get really high? Try the sport of paragliding through a tanZIP-LINING

PARAGLIDING

dem flight with an experienced pilot. Mt. Åreskutan offers first-rate flying, and so, naturally, Åre is the centre of Swedish paragliding. Without a sound you’ll swoop down and over town, crossing the cable car’s tallest pylons as they rise far below you. Here you can also acquire a basic paragliding license to fly on your own. Should you choose to pursue this ultimate freedom, you’ll be tutored by the country’s best and mostexperienced instructors. SNOWMOBILING Snowmobile safaris are rarely speedy events. Instead, they’re leisurely, comfortable adventures that reach far into hilly snowscapes that would otherwise take hours to reach on skis. Tours are usually spiced up with stops for refreshments in an on-slope restaurant or café. Vita Renen on Mount Renfjället is a popular destination for snowmobile tours. One thing to remember — make sure you are always riding only where it is allowed.

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YEAR-ROUND ACTIVITIES MARTIN OLSON

Breath in, breath out. White clouds of steam form with the rhythm of your exhalations. In front, above, and around you gathers the most powerful spectacle nature has to offer:

The northern lights VIBRANT, BLUE-GREEN FIELDS flicker in the sky — wavering, changing colour, amplifying, diminishing. In the silence of the dark, the snow squeaking under your shoes and the crisp sound of moving fabric is the only indication of earthly reality.

Throughout history, this magical polar light — at our latitudes referred to as aurora borealis or the northern lights — has seen a variety of explanations. Viewers have speculated on everything from the light of torches used by the Saami for locating re-

indeers, to a bridge to the sky built by gods, to a home of the dead. Though nowadays we understand the scientific details behind this phenomenon, it still enchants us.

Polar lights occur when solar winds throw charged particles from the sun into the Earth’s thermosphere, where they gather in an oval dome over the poles. When these particles meet atmospheric molecules, magic happens.

Your best chance to experience the northern lights is during a clear winter

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night when the particles are moving very quickly. Download one of many northern lights apps or Google “aurora forecast.”

When the report suggests high activity and no clouds, fill up you thermos, wrap yourself in warm clothes, find a spot well away from all streetlights (like Ullådalen), and let yourself be entertained. It will be worth every second of any lost sleep. Need a guide? Well, book one.

M AT T I S L I N D QV I S T

Spend the night in an igloo

WOULD YOU LIKE TO surprise the love of your life with a radically different experience in one of Sweden’s most romantic hotels? Then Igloo Åre might be for you.

For years, sitting around their dinner table, ­ atarina Lidberg Hising and Håkan Hising discussed the K possibility of a business based on snow and ice, perhaps something that could become a tourist attraction. First, however, they had to find the right place — a lofty, snow-sure location with a beautiful view that was both wind-sheltered and open to the sun. Lo and behold they found such a spot right in the Åre ski system. In spring 2012, friends and partners helped to build a small test igloo, and the rest is history.

Nestled in metres-deep snow among the birches at treeline, Igloo Åre now offers unique accommodation on the side of a mountain. The experience begins with a welcoming warm drink, then an intimate dinner, and finally a soak in one of two large hot tubs before it’s time to curl into sleeping bags in one of the igloos. You awake to a hot mug of coffee or tea and breakfast in the wintry snowscape at 1,000 metres, with breathtaking views of the entire valley.

Each year, construction begins for igloo accommodation, dinner facilities and even wedding venues in November and December. But with different conditions every winter, the design, placement, decoration and sizes of structures will vary according to snow conditions, making for even more of an adventure. I G L O O A R E . C O M/E N

ANETTE ANDERSSON

RIDING THE BACKCOUNTRY

If you want to try horseback riding in Åre you will most probably make friends with an Icelandic horse. The breed is low, sturdy and famous for quickly mastering the tricky highland terrain. Exploring Årefjällen from the back of a horse is an experience hard to beat, especially perhaps for inexperienced riders. The Icelandic horses are friendly beasts and certain to add a new dimension to your mountain holiday. Various organisers offer horseback riding in Åredalen, in summer just like in winter.

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YEAR-ROUND ACTIVITIES ERIK WESTBERG

Places to visit Åre’s gems are almost too many to count.

Here are a few in and around the village that you simply must visit.

Tännforsen Waterfall — as mighty as it gets.

In the summer aswell as in the winter.

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TÄNNFORSEN WATERFALL The masses of water cascading over Swedens largest waterfall could reputedly fill the Globen Arena in 15 minutes. Regardless, there’s plenty of action as it splashes down 37 metres into Lake Noren. It’s an impressive sight. ÅRE OLD CHURCH Åre’s medieval church celebrated its 800th anniversary a few years ago. With its solid stone walls, this was one of the stops made by the pilgrims on their way to Nidaros (today Trondheim), and is today a pleasantly cool attraction in the centre of Åre. ÅRE MUSEUM­ Located in the Bergbanan’s mountain station up at Hotell Fjällgården.

The museum was opened in 2013 and is housed in a historic building, showing Åre’s history from a farm village to a tourist metropolis. Learn about the significance of the Sámi people, the peasant community, travellers, curling and bobsleigh for the development of Åre. HANDÖL A scenic area known for its soapstone and involvement in the Karolinian death march in 1718. Both stories are well-told at the museum. There’s also a café with sales of soapstone products. LUNDHAGS Legendary shoe factory Lund­hags is located 25 kilometers to the east in Järpen.

Besides shoes they also manufactures backpacks, functional clothing and leisure wear. You find the factory outlet just by the road. NATURUM Vålådalen nature reserve is as large as Öland. A taste of its animals, nature, reindeer farming and culture is available in Naturum’s exhibitions.

HUSÅ MANOR/MINING & MINERAL­M USEUM Alone as a one of its kind in these parts stands the Huså manor in the small farming community at the ”other side” of Åreskutan overlooking Kallsjön. The adjacent museum tells the stories of the glory days of this mining village.

Lundhags in Järpen.

Åre old church.

M AT T I S L I N D QV I S T

COPPERHILL MOUNTAIN LODGE

Perched atop Mount Förberget in Björnen, the Copperhill hotel designed by world-renowned architect Peter Bohlin. has some of the most scenic views in the area. The warm, sober interior accomplishes the feat of both impressing and creating ambience.

Copperhill tempts with heaps of reasons for visiting, ranging from culinary to spa sensations. If that’s not enough, you can always do a round on the hotel’s banisters, which seem to pose a strong attraction to jibber kids, photographers and international film teams.

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YEAR-ROUND ACTIVITIES N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L

More places to visit

U L R I K A P U DA S

ÅRE LJUSFABRIK Traditional candle making at Åre Candle Factory. All candles are handmade and unique. Buy them, and hand welded candle holders, at the factory outlet. VÅLÅDALEN is a classic winter resort 30 km south of Åre where many Swedish athletes have historically trained. Vålådalen’s mountain station (once the Swedish Tourist Association’s largest mountain facility) has welcomed guests since 1923. But you’ll want to visit for the cross-country skiing. Several trails to STF cabins and mountain stations in the Jämtlandsfjällen start here. ÅRE GLASHYTTA Located in Duved, you can come inside to enjoy the heat and watch how glass is blown. In the retail side you’ll find many attractive pieces of glass for sale. RISTAFALLET WATER­ FALL An easily accessible waterfall with nice trails on both sides of the fjall. Also known as Glupafallet in the film Ronja Rövardotter. FRÖÅ MINE Up until 1919, copper was mined in Fröå. Today this is a piece of cultural history, with daily guided tours of the old mining area among restored buildings, channels, water mill and a fascinating pump. The café and restaurant Bergstugan is an attraction in itself with traditional local cuisine, sandwiches, pastries and cakes. KRETSLOPPSHUSET This “Natural Cycle House” advertises itself as a sheer delight for the senses. Given its seductive scents, wealth of plants, rippling water, and delicious organic, locally sourced, fair-trade food, it’s pretty hard to disagree. The winter garden houses the café and restaurant where guests can enjoy lunch or a Swedish fika under a living green ceiling year-round.

Ristafallet.

Åre Glashytta.

Krettsloppshuset.

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ÅRE CHOKLADFABRIK In Björnänge, 3 km east of Åre, millions of chocolate truffles are handmade every year. And you can see the process up close, do some tasting, and visit the café or boutique for a great variety of chocolate products to take back home.

HAPPY CAMP

Lyckans Läger (Camp of Happiness) is only an hour’s hike from Edsåsdalen, and well worth the effort. Beautifully located, two small cabins provide cosy shelter and basic facilities for up to eight people, and all the wilderness you could ask for in a manageable package. A lakeside, wood-fired sauna is the pièce de résistence of the experience. Cool down afterwards with a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear lake — just don’t forget to chop a hole in the ice first.

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YEAR-ROUND ACTIVITIES DA N I E L B LO M

BEACHES

ÅRESJÖN Located at

Adventure swims

THE RIVER ULLÅN is an adventure waterland as natural as they come. With views of both the peaks Åreskutan and Mullfjället, the meandering river alternates between

bubbling rapids and quieter stretches. Here you can chill in the natural pools created by the water’s unrelenting power, join the rapids in tickling waterslides, or challenge

Holiday Club, Åre’s largest beach is a sandy one, offering facilities for beach volleyball, a playground and canoe rentals.

Farther to the west, Draklanda offers another swim-friendly place on the lake.

NULLTJÄRN This shallow, child-friendly beach is 500 metres long with remarkable views of the peaks Kyrkstensfjällen and Stensdalsfjällen.

OTTSJÖN On the River Storån, this fine shallow, sandy beach offers magnificent views.

Ridvadet is a shallow wade that allows you to cross the lake from one shore to the other.

ULLÅN Enjoy these natural waterslides and pools in the highland river; start off in Ullådalen and follow the river downstream towards Åre.

HELGESJÖN Partly covered in dark, lava-looking sand, this beach offers views of Mt. Åreskutan.

GRUNDSVIKEN This beach at Lake Kallsjön, on the northern side of Mt. Åreskutan, is also several hundred metres long.

yourself by jumping from high cliffs into narrow water-filled ravines. You can also follow the water upstream to fix your own canyoning trip — a refreshing experience.

DA R R E N H A M L I N

WATERPARKING

When the sun relentlessly bakes the peaks, it can still be pleasant to seek refuge indoors; otherwise you might have to wait a long time for an excuse. During Åre’s century-old history as an outdoor sport resort there have — believe it or not — been only a few days that the TV meteorologists would describe as “bad weather days”. These would comprise one of those rare days when the sun fails to shine from clear blue skies. That’s the time to glide down to the Holiday Club waterpark at Lakeside Åre Strand. Unless for other reasons you’re later able to take part in the year’s first après-beach, or at least after-bath.

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G Ö S TA F R I E S

The Cure

NILS THOMASSON

Prince Wilhelm (in front of the sled) curing himself a century ago.

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In Åre, visitors have been getting soaked for a century — in a good way.

IN ÅRE THERE’S A PERVASIVE SENSE of history in the central square and surrounding streets lined with old wooden buildings. A 100-year-old funicular still clanks up to the ski hill in slow-motion alongside modern six- and eight-person chairs and a tramway. But to really plumb the resort’s essence we need to go back to Victorian times.

In 1882 the railway to Åre from Stockholm was officially opened by King Oscar II. Nine years later, in 1891, Åre’s first tourist information centre advertised “climatic spa Åre” as the official theme of its first campaign. Thus, Åre has been a kurort —or curing place — for over a century. People came for the air and to bathe in healing waters. Those with ailments like bad lungs were prescribed a trip to Åre. You’ve probably come here for less-dire reasons, but you can still enjoy the heritage of a good soak.

It’s often said that in Åre there’s a hot tub for almost every house, with saunas, spas and pools in pretty much every hotel: there’s Holiday Club’s selection of hot and cold pools, waterfalls, waterslides, six different saunas, swimming pool, spa, steam room and Jacuzzis; a luxurious spa with outdoor tub at the Copperhill Mountain Lodge with spectacular views of Mt. Åreskutan; and many more.

Come to think of it, maybe a prescribed a trip to “climatic spa Åre” would be good for all of us!

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IN THE VILLAGE

Food, glorious food

Åre’s selection of restaurants runs the gamut from street food to the finest contemporary big-city dining. And every last morsel is a taste sensation.

THE EXPRESSION

“punching above its weight” refers to someone or something that exerts an influence disproportionate to its size. And there’s no better way to describe dining and nightlife in Åre, a town of just 1,500 souls that eats, drinks and makes merry like a big city.

You might have finished your day of skiing in Åre, but your experience of this northern gem is far from over. The town and its surroundings are packed with great restaurants and bars, from local to internationally renowned, from winebars and brew pubs to everything in between.

And although new and first-class dining experiences open every year, some of the longstanding options remain the best, bringing together central convenience, celebrated kitchens, venerable buildings, unbeatable ambiance, and inventive cuisine in a friendly, welcoming setting. In North America, for instance, something like reindeer and lingonberry pizza might be labelled “Scando-Italian fusion”, but as one writer put it, that would be pretentious, and “Åre doesn’t really do pretentious”.

Every year, around 800 restaurants across Sweden are tested and evaluated by the country’s White Guide restaurant and café experts. Some 600 of these eventually find a berth in the guide itself. Åre, with its'

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wide range of restaurant gets high rankings — year after year. Åre's approximately 50 restaurants include traditional and specialty offerings, a range of cozy cafés, and abundant night life — whether live entertainment or quiet lounges. And there’s a huge local pride in delivering quality and sustainability on all fronts. Much of what you find in these establishments is locally grown, sourced, fished, foraged, hunted, brewed or distilled. Not hard to do when there are roughly 160 local food producers, 30 farmhouse dairies and numerous operating farms in the surrounding region of Jämtland Härjedalen.

UNLIKE MORE somnolent Scandinavian ski

areas, there’s always something happening in Åre, and the restaurants are busy, vibrant places packed with happy crowds. Yet the village remains intimate, with an Alpine character built on the history and traditions of a busy ski resort. Like many mountain towns, Åre’s inhabitants include a range of talented individuals with outsize sensibilities and a collective entrepreneurial vibe — one of the more obvious explanations for the town’s diversity and quality of food offerings. Åre’s can-do spirit, responsible for the many clothing and other outdoor companies that have found roots here, similarly extends to restaurants, with several famously run by ski bums who toiled in the local food industry before

"...there’s always something happening in Åre, and the restaurants are busy, vibrant places packed with happy crowds."

opening up their own places. Eventually these became well-known enough to attract talented chefs from elsewhere in Sweden looking to create something interesting for an appreciative international crowd.

There’s also the critical mass and spillover of Åre’s highly-respected hotel and restaurant school, which has turned out star chefs like Niklas Ekstedt and Magnus Nilsson.

ENJOYING GOOD FOOD and drink is now a route to enjoying everything else about a

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ski resort you’ve never been to. And if that resort happens to be punching above its weight in the international food and drink scene, well, that’s going to be one fine ski experience.

IN THE VILLAGE

Tastes of Åre The most ravishing tastes are

produced overlooking Mt Åreskutan.

BEER AT OTTSJÖ BRYGGHUS In the rural village of Ottsjö you’ll find the brewery Ottsjö Brygghus and their ecological beer. Some sorts of the brand can be found at the Swedish alcohol monopoly store Systembolaget and in local bars.

Occasionally they invite to beer tastings. OT T S J O B R YG G H U S . S E CHOCOLATE AT ÅRE CHOKLADFABRIK Peek into the chocolate factory in Björnänge, a couple of kilometers east of Åre. Taste the renowned chocolate pralines and buy your favorites. Chocolate heaven in Åre! A R E C H O K L A D FA B R I K . S E FLAT BREAD AT HUSÅ BRÖD In the small village Huså at the foot of Mt Åreskutan’s northern side traditional flat bread and crackers are baked with a touch of modernity. The crispy delicacies can be bought on location in the bakery and in most grocery stores in Åre. H U S A B R O D. S E COFFEE AT ÅRE KAFFEROSTERI There are just a few houses in Helgesjövallen, east of Åre. In one of them some of the finest coffee beens on earth are roasted to perfection. The roastery have won several international prices throughout the years. During the winter season the roastery has its own coffee bar at Åre village square but you can have the coffee in some of the restaurants in Åre all year round – just make sure to ask for it. A R E K A F F E R O S T E R I . S E CHARCUTERIES AT UNDERSÅKERS CHARKUTERIFABRIK

The master chef Magnus Nilsson, known from Guide Michelin starred Fäviken Magasinet, runs his own charcuterie factory in Undersåker, 10 kilometers east of Åre. Buy the freshly made delicacies over the counter. U N D E R S A K E R S C H A R K U T E R I E FA B R I K . S E

Enwrapped A modern

variety of the classic Swedish wrap.

ACCORDING TO POLARBRÖD, the bakers producing what is perhaps the most widespread variety of soft flatbread, the concept of a reindeer wrap — renklämma — came about as the result of Greta and Gösta Nilsson, whose bakery in Älvsbyn sought an opportunity to sell this typical northern bread to the south of the country. In order to distribute these thin flatbread-resembling rounds with fillings, they had to be frozen. So, the rounds were wrapped with slices of reindeer roast — et voilà — the birth of the ‘renklämma’. Here in Jämtland, we call this type of wrapped thin bread with filling a stut. The stut in the picture has little in common with the more massproduced variety, but it’s still a reindeer wrap. It has been assembled by our friend Ulrika Frisk (merited ‘Home Cook of the Year‘ some years ago), and she vouched for the quality of the final product, but we felt we had to make sure by tasting... rest assured, it does the trick!

How to do it. Take a round of homemade ‘tunnbröd.’ Place the filling on the bread.

Roll it, and eat! To achieve an optimal wrap we suggest the following ingredients: tunnbröd (baked in Åre Hembygdsgård for example), chanterelles (you can pick your own), lingonberries (you can also pick your own) Vit Caprin (goat’s cheese from Skärvången), cream cheese (like Philadelphia), pea sprouts, smoked heart of reindeer, grated horseradish, and sliced red onion.

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Break time

Nothing says “take it easy for a bit” like a good ol’ Swedish fika. ÅRE KAFFEROSTERI , which supplies many local restaurants with coffee, also operates a small bar right in the square which happens to have been awarded ”Coffee bar of the year 2019” by Sweden’s vaunted White Guide. Light lunches and fika are served but the emphasis — naturally — is on the coffee. Åre coffee roasters give the specialty beans they use the handling they deserve, all sourced from small, carefully selected plantations that operate with great respect for the environment. Coffee growing and processing is a science in itself, with various beans and roasting techniques. If you like diving into the java jungle, we recommend a tasting here. Enjoy coffee and pastry exactly the way you like it — only a bit more eco-friendly. ÅRE BAKERY The bakery and café on the outskirts of the centre is a real institution.

In addition to classic coffee it serves a buf-

fet breakfast, brunch, lunch and sometimes dinner. The scents from the bakery invite you to bring some pastry home for breakfast or sourdough bread for the evening. Bags, buns, cakes and everything between testify to fine craftsmanship.

Including the perfect piece of princess cake with raspberries and light, fresh cream.

Cappuccino is creamy, brew coffee breezy and fruity. Tourists in ski and bicycle outfits enjoy the flavours — and the fantastic view of Skutan. The White Guide scored this highest among Åre’s cafés.

GRÄDDA In the winter, skiers roll in for a second very tasty breakfast after the day’s first run. The sourdough rolls with luxurious filling are recommended, preferably with a cappuccino, which owner Daniel arranges with bravura. In the summer there ’s less choice of pastries, but the more flavours of insanely good ice cream

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(garnering several national awards in the past few years) where blueberries with a touch of violet have yet to be defeated as a favourite. Sitting back on the outdoor terrace overlooking Renfjället on the other side of the lake, life feels pretty good. The “semla” with musty and juicy filling, good cream and the cardamom muffin bun are also wicked.

LOUNGE The location in the mall at the top of the waiting room in Åre Station is a bit tight but at the same time perfect if you’re waiting on a train or taking a break from shopping. Lounge has added a pizzeria. There, just like at the café, the raw materials come from usable food with minor blemishes or groceries that have passed their best-before date. Both the lunch menu and snack bar are partly determined from what’s in this basket. After 1,000 meters of descent from Skutan, we happily crash into a comfortable sofa and drink a well-made cappuccino with a little chocolate that works well for an unexpectedly light pecan pie. There are also plenty of fresh and fruit-driven alternatives including vegan and raw food.

IN THE VILLAGE AQUA VITAE BUUSTAMONS BRÄNNERI

THE SMALL, ENTICING BUUSTAMON HOTEL is situated at

Craftier than ever

In the last few years, Åre has become beer’s new best friend.

IS IT A COMPETITION, a revolution — or just a party? Hard to say, but since 2011, the region’s stalwart Jämtland Brewery has gained four competitors, all passion projects of beer enthusiasts in the Åre Valley.

First off the mark was Åre Bryggcompagni, started by buddies Daniel Flink and Anders Abrahamsson, and whose main production moved out of town to Ängarna. Thus, with an experimental brewery in Huså, Åre’s largest producer now brews 70,000 litres a year, including its bestselling “Community Beer”, a balanced IPA that combines taste with charity, as some revenue goes to support local businesses.

In the basement of a farmhouse on a slope above Ottsjö — with unparalleled views to Ott­ fjället — Ottsjö Brygghus is brewing peerless organic beer. The farm’s old joinery has been transformed into a pub and café that’s open a couple of nights a week during ski season. Here, they serve dishes that pair perfectly with their beers.

Jämtland’s largest beer selection, at Parkvillan in Åre, includes ten of their own brewed on premises. In order to meet demand, three new 500-litre tanks have brought capacity up to 2,000 litres/month. Run by beer enthusiast Calle Nygren, who moved from Småland to Åre for skiing, girlfriend Jenny Leijon is the brewing mastermind while buddy Johan Nilsson cooks up the pub’s rustic menu. They resently also opened Åre Ölkafé in the old railway station. Åre’s latest microbrewery is Svartbergets Fjällbryggeri, Sweden’s highest at 864 metres in the on-slope restaurant Svartberget Café & Restaurang. Founder and entrepreneur Philip Hafstad is an internationally certified beer tester. With a focus on “skier beer,” the brewery produces 500 litres/week in 10 different styles, from traditional German to exciting new beers with Jämtland ingredients. Resently expanded with a brewery and tap-room in Duved.

I guess it’s a party after all.

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the treeline in Ullådalen, at 732 metres above sea level, near the pistes of Rödkullen with fine views of Mt. Mullfjället. With its squeaking floor boards, fireplaces, and dark wood panels decorated with antique farm tools, Buustamons Krog is a Swedish version of the rustic mountain chalets that have become popular on-slope restaurants in the Alps. Upstairs are 10 small hotel rooms with a total of 20 beds.

The basement plays host to one of Sweden’s smallest legal distilleries, where the house aquavit is made from sugar, wheat and potatoes produced by local farmers. The production of schnapps is based on pure spring water from Buustamon’s own well and all herbs and spices for flavouring are sourced locally. The spirits are served in Buustamon’s restaurant and tastings can be arranged on request in the distillery.

The classics Hojt and Buustasup are also sold in local off-license stores (Systembolaget) in Åre, Järpen and Östersund.

ROBERT HENRIKSSON

APRÈS-SKI IS STILL THE BEST IN ÅRE LOBBYBAREN ÅREGÅRDEN

Relaxed lobby bar in ­central Åre.

BROKEN

Laid back bar with a high proportion of villagers among the guests.

CARINS KROG

Be cosy in Björnen.

With children’s corner.

After ski

From cosy fireside hugging to boot dancing, Åre has regained its position as the best venue for après-ski.

THE APRÈS-SKI PHENOMENON — called after-ski hereabouts — is awesome, tempting, often remarkable, sometimes repelling, and, on top of that, controversial.

The saying goes that the Swedes invented après-ski, but this is a ridiculous statement. On one hand, it’s impossible to say where the first sip of glühwein was imbibed or who first took to the dance floor clad in leather ski boots. On the other hand, it seems indisputable that Swedes invented the senseless “vulgo after-ski” that the tabloids are so fond of describing.

The phenomenon started in the Alps, invaded by Swedish ski bums who were partying as if every day were the last. Coaches loaded with sports-holiday vacationers ran in caravan along Europe’s autobahns with dutyfree shops their prime destination. Then, suddenly, it all calmed down. A quieter, more urbane and, at most, slightly crowded after-ski took over. Frothy glasses of beer and comfortable armchairs seemed the proper reward for a skier’s exhausted body.

But something is happening out there again — the tumultu-

ous after-ski is re-emerging. Not in its previous delinquent form, but more sweaty, unstructured and celebratory. It’s been years since the skiwear-clad party princes and princesses wobbled home around midnight in their ski boots, but they’re making a return. This much-missed sight means that Sweden — and Åre in particular — is once again the best choice for after-ski life; this time offering a full spectrum from boot dancing to fireplace cuddling.

COPPERHILL MOUNTAIN LODGE

Sink into deep sofas at the Copperhill lobby bar.

HOLIDAY CLUB

Bar DJ and the sporty mingle at O’Learys.

HOTELL FJÄLLGÅRDEN

Wooden benches, long tables, live bands and a full party.

HOTELL GRANEN

Åre’s most peaceful après-ski. ÅREHYDDAN

A little calmer, familiar après-ski.

LILLA TYROLEN

On Förberget in Björnen.

With an Austrian touch.

TIMMERSTUGAN

Après-ski at the bottom of the slopes, by the cable car.

VERANDAN ÅRE

Classic après-ski in Dippan’s old premises.

WERSÉNS BAR

Stylish bar with a soft lounge tempo.

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IN THE VILLAGE

Åre born

Quite a few clothing brands have seen the light of day here in our tiny mountain village. Do you recognise any of them?

Stellar Equipment (pant), established 2015. During a ski trip in Canada (on the very place where the name of the brand is taken), John Crawford-Currie and Fredrik Dahl asked themselves why the production of really good ski clothing need to be so expensive. And why it takes so long from designing the clothes until they reach the customers. The solution — a new brand

their needs when it comes to ski clothing. Stitch N Stones (cap), established 2010. With a wish to stay in Åre combined with a strong need to create environmental friendly things, Emma Ruzicka and Anna Nilsson started to produce handmade headwear and other accessories out of used material.

Skhoop (skirt), established 1999.

Creator of the down skirt — the

without any middlemen. With distribution from the warehouse direct to the customer. The clothes can only be bought online and in the showroom in Åre. Elevenate (jacket), established 2011. The skiers Jimmy Odén and Sara Rönngren left the Alps behind and moved back to Sweden and Åre. Out of their joint knowledge they created a brand that meet

original. The founder Sissi Kewenter got tired of the constant taking on and off ski pants every time she needed to go out. The solution — a down skirt with a zipper. Now they are produced in many different materials and lengths with accompanying functional clothing.

Just in time for its 85th anniversary as a bootmaker, Lundhags has designed what we think is “probably THE OPTIMAL BOOT the most optimal hiking boot for Jämtland”. As soon as your foot is in the boot, we swear you’ll feel a sense of comfort, wellbeing and inspiration strong enough to set you hiking to Blåhammaren for a spontaneous dinner. Tjakke Mid is a three-layer shell boot incorporating many of the best features of Lundhags more advanced models. The lower part is made in a new cellular rubber material called Certech®EXP. Believe us when we say that in order to stay dry in a pair of boots on a wet hiking trail in Jämtland, you need cellular rubber; there is nothing else. APPROX 3 500 SEK

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"...I CAN JUST WALK OUT MY DOOR INTO NATURE..."

S I M O N S I LV E R DA H L

An adventurous man HAVING GROWN UP just outside Åre, 34-year-old Staffan Björklund recalls what the resort was once like in summer: — Basically, a ghost town.

Having moved home a year ago from Stockholm, after basing in New York City and Telluride, Colorado, for a decade while travelling the world, the one-time commercial photographer and now professional adventure racer sees things differently.

— Returning to Åre as a visitor during that time, it was more vibrant, diverse, and busier in summer — but still with the same wilds surrounding you. I knew I wanted to live here.

Adventure racing is a demanding sport that involves mountain biking, trekking, paddling, navigation, and other skills. It can also require participants to go 3–10 days without sleeping. When you come home from a race, you need to be able to recuperate.

—It’s peaceful and quiet where I live, and I can just walk out my door into nature, he says.

— I spend a lot of time outdoors, whether training or with my family. Plus, I love taking pictures — photography is still an important part of my life and Åre is a great place for it.

Staffan sees Åre as a bit more spontaneous than the big city, a little more here and now — though no less multi-layered.

— It’s kind of like three towns in one:

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there are locals who live one type of life, seasonal staff who live a more party-style existence, and visitors who get a taste of both.

Though visitors now come in all seasons, winter and summer still dominate, while Staffan recommends spring — when fishing and kayaking start, and there’s skitouring — and fall, when you can add great hiking. But he also urges travellers in busy times to be more purposeful and go deeper.

— One thing people shouldn’t miss, is to visit places outside town to see what Åre is really about, he notes.

— It’s easy to focus on the mountain and the village, but there’s more to learn about a place than just being a tourist there.

IN THE VILLAGE

Hand made

From handicrafts important to Sámi culture, to up cycled materials, Åre feature’s handmade items of great interest and superb quality.

Generations of highly skilled craftsmen, inspired by the colours and forms of nature, the lives of nomadic people and their long-standing traditions, have refined and enhanced the art of handicrafts in the area. Here in Åre, in the middle of Sápmi, the cultural region traditionally inhabited by the Sámi people, there are many example to be found.

Scarf ring with sámi patterns handmade of reindeer horn by Erik Fankki 9 5 0 S E K . Handbag handmade of reindeer leather, felt and pewter wire

by Lena Lundin Skott 4 . 5 0 0 S E K . Cup handmade of birchwood and reindeer horn by Erik Fankki 1 8 . 5 0 0 S E K . Hand painted ceramic plate from Team Lapland 9 9 9 S E K / 1 6 P C . Bracelet handmade of reindeer leather, felt and pewter wire by Irene Nutti 1 . 7 5 0 S E K .

Torbjörn “Tobbe” Lundström creates unique knives with exquisite detail. True works of art that are bought, CUTTING EDGE sold, collected and displayed, Tobbe’s knives deliver something extra. A result of more than 80 hours of handcrafting, each is totally unique, with the choices of handle material just as exclusive. When Tobbe placed only second in a knifemaking Swedish Championships, he made up for it by winning the Nordic Championships. Not surprisingly his showpiece knives are pricey: each will set you back between 10,000 and 20,000 SEK. TO B B E I A R E . S E

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Handicrafts

Åre’s special place is reflected in the range of handicrafts made here. Åre Hemslöjd has a long history in the village. Here you’ll find the works of local artists — felted items from Åre Toveri, pottery from Made in Åre, Sámi crafts, artful but useful items by Anna Cronheden, candles from Åre Ljusfabrik, and mountain jewelry by Jeff Davis, an American goldsmith and longtime Åre resident. Årebutiken features Åre-designed bags, linens, clothes, placemats, posters, Åre-made blends of tea and coffee, and chocolate from Åre Chokladfabrik (though you should visit there, as well). And don’t forget the wealth of artisan foods from Åre and surrounding villages! ”The Åre Candle” by Åre Ljusfabrik, 1 0 0 S E K . Glass bowl by Åre Glashytta, 6 0 0 S E K .

Blue mugg by Made in Åre, 2 0 0 S E K . Rings by Jeff Davies, 3 0 0 0 S E K /R I N G .

RE-RECYCLE Also a part of the Studion collective is Free Spirit Shaking Soul, whose story of crafting jewelry and accessories from recycled materials has echoed around the world. Natural materials like previously used stone, wood, leather, feathers, shells and crystals are obvious ingredients for products whose inspiration comes from the love of nature and an appreciation of secondhand goods and bohemian lifestyles.

FREESPIRITSHAKINGSOUL .COM

Local Åre brand Stitch N Stones is all about the details.

HEADS UP! Known for its handmade Vega caps that dominate all regional competition, it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say they sell like hotcakes.

The latest in their line is a winter-adapted version of the Vega, as unique in its design as previous models but utilizing a warmer type of yarn. Make sure to visit Stitch N Stones in Studion — a creative collective studio — to get one. If they sell anything like previous versions, however, you better hurry. S T I TC H N S TO N E S . S E

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"...I ALWAYS MISSED THE MOUNTAINS..."

G Ö S TA F R I E S —

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G Ö S TA F R I E S

Back in the glory days.

Call of the wild

Former World Cup alpine ski-racer Maria Pietilä-Holmner has lived in Åre almost five years, beginning when her partner began work with the upcoming 2019 World Alpine Ski Championships. Yet in some ways, mighty Åreskutan has called to her most of her life.

BORN IN THE TOWN OF UMEÅ, Maria took up alpine skiing when she was seven years old. She recalls her first time visiting Åre, age 10, as magical.

— It was a huge deal to go to Sweden’s biggest ski mountain, something I’d only heard about, she says of the trip’s lasting impression.

— Afterward, it was always special to me.

And she had plenty of occasion to re-connect while travelling the ski world.

Maria made 207 World Cup starts, and took ten podiums, including three wins.

She also appeared in three winter Olympic Games and medalled five times in the World Championships, including a silver in Giant Slalom at Åre in 2007.

Retiring from racing in 2018, Maria took up commentating for winter sports on

Swedish television.

— When I quit ski racing, I thought I needed a complete break from it, she recalls.

— But living that life for so long, it was hard to leave straightaway, and broadcasting has been a good transition.

It has also been something she’s happy to do from her new base in Åre.

— I love Umeå, of course, but always missed the mountains and the greater nature surrounding Åre, she says.

Living here, she has been able to watch how Åre works its charm on visitors.

— Coming this far north is already special for many people, but then they’re surprised at everything that’s here — great restaurants and cafés, nice shops, a lake, and that you can walk everywhere — like a

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tiny city close to wilderness, she says.

She lavishes even more praise on what they can find in the ski area — a small mountain that skis big.

— Some parts are perfect for families, but there are also tough World Cup pistes, good off-piste skiing, and cross-country.

Basically, a little bit of everything and something for everyone.

Maria, a self-described morning person, loves to start her own day with a hike or ski-tour and bring breakfast along.

— It’s also the way we socialize here — by doing things together we share an interest in, no matter your age, she enthuses.

— I love that Åre is full of active, talented people brave enough to move here from a city, who want to work to live instead of live to work.

CALENDAR Red Bull Homerun.

Miriam Bryant can be seen at Åre Sessions.

three different distances to choose from—55 km, 30 km and 11 km. The 55 km version can be done in three-­person relay teams. There’s also “Lilla Årefjällsloppet” for kids.

Calendar

A R E FJ A L L S LO P P E T. S E

A selection of events hosted in Åre this year.

Find them all at aresweden.com 2-9 FEB ÅRE GASTRONOMY A week with focus on good food and drink. Local food and beverage producers and restaurants are highlighted through this unique event.

Invited chefs from near and far are hosting dinners, beer tastings, wine tastings and local food popup-stores. Tasty experiences like dinner in the cabin and skiing combined with a 6-course lunch on the slopes.

A R EGA S T R O N O M Y. S E

18 FEB SKI TOUR 2020 is a part of the 2020

FIS Cross-Country World Cup. It takes place in five arenas across two nations.

Ski Tour 2020 represents the cooperation between the Norwegian and Swedish National Ski Associations and it will be a unique experience.

Ski Tour 2020 kicks off in Östersund, Sweden, and continues to Åre, Trondheim and Meråker, and finally Trondheim.

On February 18 the athletes will compete at the Swedish Alpine National Arena the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships

was hosted just last year. After the stop in Åre the athletes will continue to Storlien for a 38 kilometer mass start race across the border. It will be the first time ever that a World Cup race crosses a national border.

Ski Tour 2020 finishes with two stages at Granåsen Skisenter in beautiful Trondheim on February 22 and 23. S K I TO U R 2 02 0 . C O M

12 APRIL RED BULL HOMERUN Sure, there are some rules to follow, but the basics are; run about 100 meters, get your skis on your feet and get to the bottom of the mountain as fast as you can. Of course, the one that gets down first wins, but everybody gets to go to the massive aprés ski/race party.

R E D B U L L . S E /H O M E R U N

18 APRIL SKUTSKJUTET The world’s largest downhill ski race! Thousands of participants aging 3 years and up. A prize is awarded for best costume. Aprés ski with live music and prize ceremony in Åre Town Square.

S K I S TA R . C O M/A R E

12-14 MARCH FIS ALPINE SKI WORLD CUP It is

time again to end up at the Swedish Alpine National Arena here in Åre. The alpine world elite is here to fight for the top positions.

Watching alpine competitions live is exciting, come and see the world’s elite duke it out.

Parallell slalom, slalom and giant slalom for women are on the program. We’re keeping our fingers crossed a little extra for our Swedish stars. A R E 2 0 1 8 . C O M 14 MARCH ÅREFJÄLLSLOPPET The most beautiful long-distance ski race in Sweden.

The course winds through the breathtaking mountain scenery of western Jämtland with

30 APRIL-3 MAY ÅRE SESSIONS Åre is famous for hosting big artists. But that's random gigs at random clubs. Now we have our very own annual music festival, and it's time time for the third year. Åre Sessions combines the world of music with the culture of skiing in a mix that has grown to be one of the season’s major events. Some 20 music acts will perform on various stages around Åre. And don’t worry about tickets — your SkiPass serves as your festival pass. Artists will be announced over the winter so check the website for updates. And get ready to party. A R E S E S S I O N S . S E

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FOR MORE INFO AND MORE EVENTS PLEASE VISIT

ARESWEDEN.COM

FJÄLL­MARATON WEEK 25 JULY SALOMON 27K , as the name suggests, the race is 27 km, then it is also 1150 vertical meters, which does not make the race easier. But one of Åres mountain’s most beautiful trails makes this race a pleasure running.

25 JULY TOUR DE VÄLLISTE is as an introduction to the Fjällmaraton where you can get to know trail running on a not too demanding course.

29 JUNE ÅRE EXTREME CHALLENGE Your worst adversary is your wish to give up, to throw in the towel. This is about Sweden’s largest adventure sports event and Åre’s version of Iron Man: Åre E ­ xtreme Challenge.

Hundreds of contestants will be on the watery starting line in their unstable kayaks for the paddle stage with the mighty waterfall of Tännforsen as a backdrop. In Åre, 25 km later, they will switch to running shoes. Via the the top of Åreskutan they will run to Huså on the other side of the mountain. From here they ride a mountainbike back to Åre and the finish line.

Early in the morning sounds the start pistol and the event sometimes called The Longest Day has begun. ­A R E E X T R E M E C H A L L E N G E . S E

you are at the start at Åre Town Square and look up to Totthummeln, you’ll know it will be quite tough anyway.

30 JULY THE SPRINT starts with a prologue in a short, about 300m long, but yet demanding course.

It is followed by finals with heats of four by four where the top two qualifies. Same model as a sprint race in cross country skiing. A really muddy and dirty spectacle that is fun for spectators.

1-5 JULY ÅRE BIKE FESTIVAL A mix of happenings, clinics, competitions, kidsevents and after-bikes. One of the festival’s main events is Åre Video Challenge, where five teams of the absolute cream of free-riding cyclists have a few days to create a five-minute film with Åre as a backdrop. The results is shown during a gala in the arena at Holiday Club. Another highlight is the Midnight Ride, where fire bunks shows the way down from Åreskutan.

Also, don’t miss the classic competition Whip It Good by the VM6:an lift. An easy accessed, mind blowing, jumping spectacle that will make your jaw drop. A R E B I K E F E S T I VA L . C O M

1 AUG THE QUARTER MARATHON 26 JULY LUNDHAGS MINI ­M ARATHON is the children’s own

race during the Fjällmaraton week, and it takes place at Köjagården in Edsåsdalen.

starts in Edsåsdalen and then works its way up about 600 meters to the Välliste peak with amazing views. And then awaits the downhill trail towards Trille­ vallen and the finish.

28 JULY PEAK PERFORM­A NCE VERTICAL K Uphill race from

Åre Town Square to the top of Åreskutan. The prestigious match to Åreskutan’s peak and the time up to it is the focus. The times and records from previous years are to be beat. Get a Vertical K pass and compete against previous winners and other runners.

PPVERTICALK.SE

29 JULY COPPER TRAIL 7K is the race every­one can participate in, and everyone has a chance to win a car from KIA. The course stretches around Totthummeln and is not that long, but when

1 AUG KIA FJÄLLMARATON , a distance of 43 km and 2100 vertical meters should scare the most. The course contains technical parts and varied terrain. The start is in Vålådalen and then you cross the three mountains Ottfjället, Hållfjället and Välliste. Do you feel that you have time to take a break on the peaks you’ll witness the great view of the south of Årefjällen.

If you run all the competitions, there will be an accumulated distance of 109 km and 5900 vertical meters. Now, that’s tough... FJ A L L M A R ATO N . S E

27 JULY-1 AUG ÅRE GOLF WEEK Golf competition week on one of the highland’s most scenic courses — Åre Golfbana.

A R E G O L F K LU B B . C O M

8 AUG SWEDEMAN XTREME TRIATHLON The XTri World Tour is held in Åre for the second time. A challenging triathlon with an initial stage of 3.8 km swimming in Öster-Noren followed by 205 km of road cycling from Tännforsen to Krokom and back. The race ends, as it should, with a marathon run with the finish on top of Åreskutan. Extremely tough. S W E X T R I . C O M 25-27 SEP ÅRE AUTUMN FAIR The autumn fair in Åre is filled with marketers and visitors, a wonderful ambience, the programme runs from morning till early evening with many popular and interesting features. A R E H O S T M A R K N A D. S E

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EMRIK JANSSON

H A N S LU N D QV I S T

Åre Bike Festival.

LAST WORDS OL A ROCKBERG —

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”I could live here” THE FIRST TIME I CAME TO ÅRE, I took a taxi from Åre/-Östersund airport. The driver, a large man with a red nose, was nice, if a bit eccentric.

As we drove along Stor-sjön, he talked of fishing and hunting and growing up on an island in the middle of the Great Lake. He also told me a giant monster lived in the lake, and that he’d seen it several times. I was new here, and ready to believe anything.

I nodded, and stared out across the cold, steely water.

There was womb-like comfort in those lapping waters, the sweep of birch and pine across land that rolled up to the horizon like carpet bunched in a hall.

Moose warnings picketed the roadside, and tidy cottages in clean, countrified, Scandinavian style rose and fell from view. A creeping familiarity took hold.

As we drove into Åre, I remember thinking, “I could live here.”

Nothing I experienced on that first visit did anything to change my mind and everything to reinforce it: skiing soupy May snow and gazing out across the broad, snowy highlands to the west; watching a crazy jump contest under a molten, late-evening sun while winter was chased from the valley; spring raccoon-tans and smiles everywhere; outdoor parties, good food, great people, life as simple celebration. I’ve been to Åre many times since, and each has made me more certain. I could live here.

I could live in a town where past and present hold hands around every corner.

Where culture and tradition have a place

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in the modern world. Where people aren’t shackled by history, but embrace it with every action, as if they’re part of something bigger, something great, something that can only get better.

I could live where the sky holds a mountain in its hands. Where storms come in low and black, pressing you to the earth, making you wonder what’s going on above. Where you can tramp through wet autumn woods while a north wind tears clouds from the newly whitened peak of Åreskutan like a Christmas present being unwrapped.

Where one sunny day can make up for weeks of darkness, and clean air and fresh water are a right not a privilege.

I could live where people laugh and smile not because they feel the need, but because they can’t help it. Where people live a little outside of the world not because they reject it, but because they care so passionately for it. I could live here because I like lingonberries and reindeer and even Volvos. But mostly I like people who might be uncertain about everything else, but very certain about why they live in a place like this.

Whenever I’m in Åre, I think of the taxi driver. I know his monster wasn’t real, but it still has meaning. Monsters are an expression of our most deeply cherished ideas: the unknown, wilderness, endless possibility, something to believe in. And if we ever actually found a monster, it would be over—nothing unknown, no more possibility.

Some people invent monsters because they want to believe anything is possible. The rest of us, to make it simpler, just move to the mountains.

— LESLIE ANTHONY

Åre — magnificent all year around

Åre has some of the best hiking in Scandinavia, and a wealth of mountain biking in and around Mt Åreskutan — the type that draws aficionados from across the globe. And we all know Åre as a world class ski resort. Sun, scenery, satisfaction and adventures.

Welcome back! Anytime of the year.

P H OTO N I C L A S V E S T E FJ E L L