Summer 2022 Your free copy iLoveAthens guide
2.AthensAncientiLoveAthens The Ancient Agora
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28 SUMMER 2022 iLoveAthens
The Acropolis defies description: it is after all what you’ve come to Athens to see. The very symbol of Western civilisation, the Parthenon makes you gasp when it comes into view, whether it's your first visit or your twenty-first. There’s much to take in, so arrive early an especially good plan in summer as there’s little shade up on “the rock”. Acropolis’ was a general term used for citadels built on natural fortifications. But the Acropolis of Athens is unrivalled for the monuments produced by its glittering civilization: the Propylaea, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erectheion held aloft by its caryatids, and, of course, the Parthenon itself the pinnacle of human perfection whose every measurement is based on the golden mean. +30 210 923 8747
The Acropolis
Archaeological Sites
Ancient Agora
Visitors look to the Acropolis as the centre of ancient Athens, but its heart was the Agora. This is where people met to trade goods and gossip, shop, be entertained, argue politics, or just hang out. It’s a large site, built in stages, and worth spending the time to explore. The wide path through the site is, in fact, ancient – a track for chariot races and processional road known as the Panathenaic Way that led to the Acropolis. Two buildings immediately pop: the Stoa of Attalos, marked by a 115-metre colonnade, and the impressive Temple of Hephaestus with sculpted marble friezes depicting the labours of Heracles and Theseus. Note a small mound in the middle of the temple: it’s where the British traveller John Tweddell was buried when the grounds were briefly used as a Protestant cemetery. Adrianou 24, Monastiraki 10555, +30 210 321 0185
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66 SUMMER 2022 iLoveAthens ART & DESIGN 3.3
Cultural Powerhouses
Intro The performing arts have always played a central role in the cultural –and political– life of Athens. The marble theatre of Dionysus, on the slopes of the Acropolis, was as vital to ancient Athenian society as the surrounding temples and citizen’s assemblies. Today, modern cultural landmarks and historic venues continue to inspire with an ever-changing line-up of theatre, dance, and live music.
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Greek National Opera
Masterfully designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano, the Greek National Opera’s (GNO) main stage is in some ways an homage to operatic traditions. The signature cherry red colour-scheme evokes the classical opera house. But there’s no red velvet or gilded chandelier in sight instead, a kinetic sculpture by Japanese artist Susumu Shingu is suspended from the ceiling. Indeed, the GNO is anything but a conservative institution. Recent performances include Alban Berg’s avant-garde opera “Wozzeck”, and Patari Project’s environmentally conscious spin on Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons” at the smaller Alternative Stage. The acoustics are pitch-perfect, and the seating (five seat types of three different heights and inclinations in the main hall) has been painstakingly designed for streamlined sightlines no matter how cheap your seats. (Even the most expensive tickets are a steal by European and American standards). 364 Syngrou Avenue, Kallithea, 176 74, +30 216 809 nationalopera.gr1000,
IntroArchitecture
80 SUMMER 2022 iLoveAthens ART & DESIGN 3.5
From classical temples to closely-packed concrete apartment blocks, the architecture of Athens is as unpredictable and untidy as the city itself. Byzantine chapels, neoclassical mansions, repurposed industrial buildings and boxy Bauhaus flats co-exist in a kind of discordant harmony. Like a trail of breadcrumbs, Athens leaves traces of its evolution in its patchwork of architectural forms.
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Sleeping Female Figure (1877), by Yannoulis Chalepas, at the Tomb of Sofia Afentaki, First Cemetery of Athens
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í What’s on: Five mustsee exhibitions in Athens. í Ancient Athens: Discover the city’s glorious history. í Art&D esign Athens: Museums, galleries, superb art. í Secret Athens: Discover lesserknown landmarks. í Outdoor Athens: Hills, amazing views, open-air cinemas, and where to skate in Athens. í Coastal Athens: Great beaches just half an hour away from downtown.