athens
and the
greek islands
for
visitors
Guide2017
02–47
112–119
50–67
120–131
68–85
132–139
86–99
140–143
100–103
144–159
Athens Mykonos Santorini Paros Antiparos
Syros Tinos Koufonisia Amorgos Crete
104–111
Sifnos
Contents
Publisher
Coordination
Editor in Chief
Sales
Stathis Tsagarousianos Michalis Michael
Articles Editor
Daphne Papadopoulou (Athens) Kiriakos Spirou (Islands)
Designers
Yannis Karlopoulos Rinétta Koskinidou Christos Tzovaras
Photographers Paris Tavitian SOOC Shutterstock
Summer 2017
Xenia Stasinopoulou Demetra Passomenou Kostas Mantas Arietta Melissinou Isidora Genouzou Nontas Dabanis George Lykourgiotis
Produced by
DYO DEKA EKDOTIKI SA 22 Voulis st. Syntagma Square Athens 105 61, Greece www.lifo.gr For queries or comments email us at info@lifo.gr
Athens–1
Welcome to
Athens
2–Athens
LiFO Athens
Summer 2017
Athens–3
5 must see events Ghika – Craxton – Leigh Fermor
Charmed lives in Greece
The exhibition presents the friendship of three significant figures, the artists Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika (1906-1994) and John Craxton (1922-2009) and the writer Patrick Leigh Fermor (1915-2011), from the early years of their acquaintance in the mid-1940s to the end of their lives. Through the display of works of art, extracts from texts, photographs, letters, manu-
4–Athens
scripts and publications, we follow their relationship and their artistic and literary careers, with their love of Greece always a common denominator. As well as giving a chronological account, the exhibition plays on the theme of the places which inspired them – Hydra, Kardamyli, Crete and Corfu – and where they found hospitable settings to live and create. Most
of the artworks belong to the Ghika Gallery of the Benaki Museum and the Craxton Estate in London, but also from Museums and private collections in Greece and abroad. The exhibition will travel afterwards at the British Museum in London and is accompanied by a bilingual publication with texts by the editors and an abundant photographic material.
Benaki Museum 1 Koumbari St. & Vas. Sofias Ave Opening hours: Wednesday, Friday: 9:00 - 17:00, Thursday, Saturday: 9:00 - 00:00, Sunday: 9:00 15:00 www.benaki.gr
LiFO Athens
THE APIVITA EXPERIENCE STORE Discover Athens top destination for natural cosmetics, SPA treatments, “green” hair salon and organic juice bar to refresh and energize you
Adrián Villar Rojas
The Theater of Disapearance APIVITA is a Greek natural cosmetic company inspired by the lush flora of the Greek nature, the bee society and the holistic Hippocratic approach to health and beauty. In one of the most central streets of Kolonaki, in the center of Athens, you will find its flagship store, The APIVITA Experience store, in a renovated neo-classical building designed to offer a unique and holistic experience. Each of the 5 welcoming floors unfolds the power of nature, the secrets and wisdom of the bee society and the rich Greek flora that consist the whole philosophy behind the products of APIVITA. At the ground floor you will find the whole range of APIVITA products, special packaging, limited edition ranges and gift packs, while hot tea and honey are always offered to visitors. On the first floor, APIVITA introduces the concept of Natural Pharmacy where you will be able to create your own personal natural cosmetics with the help of a qualified pharmacist and aromatherapy specialist. Don’t forget to pay a visit to the Juicy Bee bar, the first strictly organic juice bar in Athens that offers smoothies, green juice, detox juices, super foods and more, for those who believe that beauty comes from within and want to indulge themselves in a more natural healthy diet or simply wish to make their day more tasty and healthy! Last but not least, the APIVITA Experience store offers the most advanced natural hair products at its Ηair Studio & Barber Shop, while on the top floor lay the essence of the holistic APIVITA experience, the BEEHIVE SPA, a real beehive spa sanctuary. Indulge yourself in the APIVITA way of living! A way of living that is worth discovering.
6 Solonos St., Kolonaki, Athens, Tel: +30 210 3640560, www.apivita.com/hellas/apivita-experience-store Opening hours: Monday – Wednesday 10:00 - 17:00 Tuesday – Thursday- Friday 10:00 -21:00 Saturday 10:00-17:00
6–Athens
This is a major site-specific installation by celebrated Argentinian artist Adrián Villar Rojas. Villar Rojas is well known for large-scale sculptural installations that radically disturb the sites he engages with. Through his work, he interrupts the status quo of artistic practice and behaviour within a museum, a site of cultural heritage, a rooftop or public space. He creates unpredictable settings for the visitor to explore, places where we feel uncomfortable or are astounded by the alternative histories he suggests. Concerned with ideas of disappearance, extinction, the passage and volatility of time, Villar Rojas creates a new, and often disconcerting, visual language. This commission sees him negotiating with an archaeological site for the first time as he radically alters both the indoor and outdoor space of the National Observatory. The whole site undergoes a transformation – architectural, horticultural and emotional. The National Observatory of Athens is the first
research Institution established in Greece in 1842. The National Observatory of Athens facing the Parthenon and Thission is one of the landmarks of Athens; it has long been used by Greek and foreign Astronomers as the basis for astronomical, meteorological, cartographical and geodynamical measurements and observations in the more than 170 years long course of its history. Today the buildings of NOA at Thission include an Astrogeophysics Museum, housing clocks, telescopes and other instruments of the 19th century, as well as an extensive 19th century library. National Observatory of Athens, Hill of the Nymphs. Nearest Metro: Thission, Monastiraki, Acropolis. Opening hours: Wednesday – Sunday: 11.00 – 21.00 Free Entrance. Αccess only on foot. Those wishing to explore the full sitespecific installation are advised to wear flat shoes, preferably trainers. www.neon.org.gr
LiFO Athens
Divine Dialogues
Cy Twombly and Greek antiquity For the first time, 27 works by Cy Twombly inspired by Greek mythology and his close ties with Greece, are presented alongside 12 ancient artworks, revealing a unique and original dialogue between ancient Greek and contemporary art. The exhibition includes representative drawings and sculptures by the contemporary artist, such as Venus (1975), Pan (1975), Nike (1981), Apollo (1975), Dionysus(1975), Orpheus (1979), Aristaeus mourning the loss of his bees (1973) and Aphrodite Anadyomene (1979). These works “converse” with a series of ancient artworks such as the Torso of Aphrodite Anadyomene from the Archaeological Museum of Paphos, the Relief with representation of Orpheus, Eurydice, and Hermes from the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, the Statue of Dionysus from the Archaeological Museum of Eleusis, the Statuette of Apollo and the Figurine of winged Nike from the
Summer 2017
National Archaeological Museum of Athens. A special place at the very core of the exhibition holds an unexpected visitor: the famous François Vase, also known as the Kleitias and Ergotimos Krater, a milestone in the development of ancient Greek pottery and vase painting, which travels for the first time outside Italy, from the Archaeological Museum of Florence. It has been said that the François Vase is so unique that, even if all other ancient Greek vases were lost, it alone could illustrate Greek mythology and the code of Archaic Greek art. Museum of Cycladic Art Neophytou Douka 4, Athens www.cycladic.gr Opening hours: Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday: 10.00-17.00, Thursday: 10.00-20.00, Sunday: 11.00-17.00, Tuesday: Closed.
Athens–7
A World of Emotions
Ancient Greece,
700 BC – 200 AD Bringing to vivid life the emotions of the people of ancient Greece, and prompting questions about how we express, control, and manipulate feelings in our own society, the Onassis Cultural Center New York presented the path-breaking exhibition A World of Emotions: Ancient Greece, 700 BC – 200 AD. The exhibition of more than 130 masterpieces from some of the finest museums in the world including the Acropolis Museum, the National Archaeological Museum Athens, the Louvre, the British Museum, the Vatican Museums, among many others, explored the ideas and attitudes of people in classical antiquity toward emotion and the ways in which the emotions were depicted, revealing how some are strikingly familiar to us and some shock-
8–Athens
ingly alien. The exhibition features vase paintings, sculptures (ranging from life-size statues from the Acropolis to relief carvings from cemeteries), theatrical masks, amulets, coins, and votive offerings, among other artifacts from the early 7th century BC to the late 2nd century AD. Acropolis Museum 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou Street Opening hours: Monday 8:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m., Tuesday/Wednesday/ Thursday 8:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m., Friday 8:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m., Saturday/ Sunday 8:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m.
www. theacropolismuseum.gr
Giuseppe Verdi
Il trovatore
The Greek National Opera’s second major summer production at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus Theater, which brings the 2016-2017 artistic period to a close, is the popular Il trovatore, one of Verdi’s most important operas. An archetypal Romantic melodrama, with its distinctive melodic and intense music, full of passionate arias and duets, as well as some of the most famous opera
choruses in history. In Il Trovatore everything plays out between fire and moonlight; between the flames of passion burning in the hearts of the four main characters, and the cold light of the moon which illuminates the harsh situations they find themselves in. The libretto and music could be said to contain all the stereotypes of the genre. The story, full of unexpected twists, is about two brothers, unaware of their relation to each other, who fall for the same woman. The key figure is a gypsy girl, who cast a child into the flames to take revenge on the wrongful death of her own mother; quite by mistake though it happened to be her own child which she tossed into the flames. The stunning production which sees Stefano Poda responsible for direction, sets, costumes and lighting, was first staged at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus Theater in 2012, and was a roaring success. Il Trovatore is a “singer’s opera” par excellence, requiring world class performers for the key roles. And the GNO’s production certainly does feature some of the world’s best performers such as Walter Fraccaro, Cellia Costea, Yelena Manistina and Dimitri Platanias. Conducted by Miltos Logiadis, Artistic Director of the Athens Concert Hall and accomplished conductor. Odeon of Herodes Atticus Theater Starts at: 21.00 21, 23, 25, 27 July 2017 www.nationalopera.gr
LiFO Athens
10 beaches for
10–Athens
LiFO Athens
swimming
Summer 2017
Athens–11
Sun Coast (Akti Tou Iliou) →Alimos: The Sun Coast beach lies on Poseidonos Avenue. It is a popular destination for swimming and having fun as well as and the first organized beach when leaving the center of Athens, at a 7.5km distance. Sun Coast offers its visitors changing rooms, WC, volleyball courts, a space for playing beach rackets, snack bars, restaurants and cafés. During the day a fully equipped infirmary and lifesavers are on call to keep you safe while enjoying the sea.
Astir Glyfada If you mind being close to the coastal avenue, you can head to the organized beach of Astir Glyfada, 14km away from downtown Athens. It is located right behind the former
12–Athens
nightclub «Asteria» and practically occupies the small peninsula south of Glyfada. The beach is open everyday from 08:00 till 20:00 and offers many amenities to suit everybody’s idea of a day at the beach. It has a capacity of 5.000 people, and on site you can find changing rooms, lockers, sunbeds, umbrellas, playing grounds for children, beach volley and beach soccer installations.
Astir Beach →Vouliagmeni Hands down the most luxurious beach of the Athens Riviera, catering to the whims of those with expensive taste who wish to bask in the sun while feeling glamorous and rubbing shoulders with local celebrities. Located 25km away from the center of Athens, specifically on the Laimos peninsula, it
is a beach operating all year round. The water is crystal clear and the 300metre bay of Astir is surrounded by pine trees. Restaurants, bars, hot water showers, changing rooms are only some of the ammenities, while beach racket and beach volleyvall tournaments are organized to keep you fit and entertained. Christina Onassis, Joan Collins, Brigitte Bardot are only a few of the international jet-setters that have favored this green bay.
Vouliagmeni Lake One of the hidden gems of Athens. An idyllic spot situtated between Vouliagmeni and Varkiza. The impressive rock formation, thermal spring waters, a maze of underwater tunnels as well as the lush vegetation surrounding this unique geological landmark
make it a must-see. At the end of the lake starts an underwater cave, whose full length is yet undetermined, since only 3.123 m have been explored. On of its 14 tunnels is the longest in the world (800m), and the discovery of a huge stalagmite inside the cave has altered the scientist perceptions reagrding the formation of the Mediterranean sea. On site visitors can find a restaurant and a café, a playground and participate in fitness programs. The constant temperature of the water, combined with the oval shaped lake create the ideal natural pool in a heavenly setting. Visiting hours are from dawn till dusk, all year round. Don’t be surprised if seagulls decide to hang out with you while you are reading your book or sip an ice cold coffee. LiFO Athens
Varkiza Resort Yabanaki Beach The renovated beach park Varkiza Resort Yabanaki Beach is situated on the central beach of Varkiza. It is easily accessed via the coastal highway or Attiki Odos and in essence this is an area offering many other activities besides swimming. Cafés, bars, restaurants, beach bars, free aqua aerobic classes and fitness events, water sports, windsurf and water ski activities are offered to make your stay there all day long.
Grand Resort Lagonissi When you want to live a dream island vacation but have to be in the Attica region, the perfect destination is the Grand resort Lagonissi. The 72acre private beach resort is situated on the 40th km of the Athens – Sounion Highway, and boasts one of the most magnificent views of the Saronic Gulf. The luxurious hotel is built right next to the sea
14–Athens
and provides its guests the ultimate experience: a variety of restaurants and bars, sports courts, a hairdressing salon and a multitude of entertainment opportunities so as to rejoice, and all just a stone’s throw away from downtown Athens.
Nea Makri Zouberi - La Costa Zouberi, a pine-tree coastal settlement that reminds us of childhood summers spent carefree in the company of friends and family, is located near Nea Makri. At the end of Aeroporias Street you will find La Costa, a beach complex with two large beach bars, a restaurant and one of the largest beach clubs. Endorsed by the youngsters, it provides customers with free parking, sunbeds, changing rooms and showers. In only a few minutes’ drive you can get to «Brexiza», the central beach of Nea Makri and it’s also located close to the archaeological site of the Aegyptian Temple
established by Herod Atticus in 2nd century BC, for the adoration of aegyptian deities.
Avlaki beach The beach of Avlaki is situated south of the peninsula defining the bay of Porto Rafti. You can enjoy an afternoon coffee at the nearby Kastro, with a stunning vista of the Porto Rafti bay will reward you.
Karavi – Schoinias Karavi Schinias beach and water sports club is located 42 km northnortheast of Athens, near the historical city of Marathon and very close to the Olympic Rowing Centre. Karavi offers an unparalleled experience for all water-sports and beach-sports enthusiasts as well as for those wishing to just relax in the sun. The seven-acre property features 100m of clean, sandy beach with umbrellas, sunbeds and water sports facilities, restaurants and beach bars. It’s open every day
from 9:00 to 21:00 for swimming, sunbathing, food, drink, windsurfing, SUP and beach volley. Lifeguars are there to ensure your safety, and changing rooms as well as showers are provided. No entrance fee.
Psatha Should you choose to visit West Attica, Psatha is a beach 66 km away from Athens and has become a popular destination over the years. Its 2.5 km of sandy coast situated right under Pateras mountain. Its breathtaking view of the Corinthian Gulf has won the hearts of people wishing for a quick getaway not only on weekends, but weekdays as well. Pristine waters and a variety of restaurants, tavernas and cafés cater to all your needs. The esplanade behind the beach is an ideal way to forget about anything stressful and the worries of everyday life.
LiFO Athens
12 places you have to visit in Athens 01→ The Acropolis Hill & the Parthenon Against all odds, the Acropolis Hill (entrance from Dionysiou Areopagitou Street) dominates the Athenian skyline in a remarkable way. Climbing the 70-metre Hill the history of the ancient city unfolds before you starting from Neolithic times, when the first findings are dated. Its flat top is due to the numerous landfills that have accommodated construction of fortifications and temples since the Mycenaean era. The first building you encounter when you enter is the Propylea (437-432 BCE), the monumental
16–Athens
entrances to the area, made from marble of mount Pendeli to mark the entrance to the religious complex. Its function was to receive and assemble the visitors and it was built in the Doric order with few Ionic columns supporting the roof of the central wing. The architect of the project Mnesikles who began building right after the main construction of the Parthenon was completed in 437 BCE. However, five years later the Peloponnesian war erupted and construction had to stop. At the southwest is the elegant Temple of Athena Nike (426-421 BCE) of Ionian order, designed by the other wonder child of architecture, Kallikrates. LiFO Athens
It is said that it housed the statue of Athena Nike, which was made of wood and held a helmet in the left hand. Since it had no wings, the temple acquired the name Apteros Nike (wing-less victory). This way, Athenians thought, victory would never leave the city. The Erechtheion (421c405 BCE) is known for its spectacular six female figures functioning as columns, the Caryatids. Possibly named after the women of the city of Karyes, the originals have been transferred into the Acropolis museum. It is a complicated temple. The idea was to accommodate the radically uneven ground on the site, and to avoid disturbing sacred Summer 2017
shrines that pre-existed, like the altars to Poseidon and Hephaestus, or the spot where Poseidon hit the Acropolis with his trident. Other elements that needed to be included were the sacred olive tree, well containing sea water, the tomb of Kekrops, and the Pandrosion sanctuary. The Parthenon (447-438 BCE), built for Virgin (Parthenos) goddess Athena, was made to honour her after she won over the city in a confrontation with Poseidon. Built atop an older temple destroyed by the Persians, Athenians spared no expense in rebuilding a sanctuary of unrivalled craftsmanship. The marble structure of Doric order was 13.72
metres high and 69.50 metres long. Its famous architects, Iktinos and Kallikrates, used marble from the nearby mount Penteli throughout the building for the first time in such constructions. The building was meat to impress with the first glance and so it did, as visitors entered the Acropolis from Propylea and saw it in three quarter view. Its main function was to house the colossal statue of Athena that was made by Phedias out of gold and ivory. The topic of the sculpted decorations was the myths regarding goddess Athena and the Persian defeat by Athens. All artwork, supervised by the sculptor Phedias, was completed by
432 BCE. The decoration of the Parthenon combines the Doric metopes and triglyphs on the entablature, with the Ionic frieze on the walls of the cella. They depict the Gigantomachy on the east side, the Amazonomachy on the west, the Centauromachy on the south, and scenes from the Trojan War on the north. The value of the Parthenon lies, among other things, in the fact that at the time it was built, it epitomised the ideals Athenian society had developed during Pericles’s Golden Age: Democracy, accuracy through mathematics, aesthetics, and focus on the individual.
Athens–17
02→ The Acropolis Museum The much talked about Acropolis Museum celebrated five years of operation in June. All antiquities formerly crammed in the small museum atop the namesake hill were transported during 2007 in a mammoth-sized operation. The last exhibits were placed into their new positions in April 2008. The building, designed by Swiss architect
18–Athens
Bernard Tschumi and Greek architect Mihalis Photiades, is made out of cement, stainless steel and glass, with spacious galleries. According to the architects, the idea behind the structure was to keep it solemn and simple, in an effort to focus attention on the exhibits, rather than the building itself. The exhibition rooms house the most important artefacts of the classical period, as well as other treasures that were previously kept in storage for lack of space. The museum has divided its
roughly 4,000 artefacts in five collections: The finds from the slopes of the Acropolis Hill, antiquities from the archaic period, the classical period, the post-classical era and the Roman period. Some of the most emblematic ancient Greek antiquities are displayed: The archaic Kouroi (male statues) and Kores (female statues), a vast number of pottery, marble sculptures of maidens and athletes, the Parthenon frieze and all its surviving parts. Visitors will also have a chance to admire a
collection of artefacts dug out during the excavation process on the ground floor and inspect the ancient city-beneaththe-city. Archaeologists uncovered ancient roads, houses, bath houses and workshops dating between 3,000 BCE-1,200 BCE, all of which can now be examined through a glass floor that extends from the outside area to the main hall. The route one follows forms a spiral pathway leading from the ground floor where the archaic artefacts are exhibited upwards towards the Parthenon marbles and back down through the Roman era. The top floor houses the Parthenon frieze which is displayed in its original, 2,500-year-old full-length entirety, placed at the same angle as it did when it was on its original location, to maximise its effect on the viewer. The pieces missing from the frieze, famously known as the Elgin Marbles, have been replaced by duplicates. Greeks have been very vocal in requesting the originals back from the British Museum where they have been housed since Lord Elgin hacked them off the Parthenon in 1801. LiFO Athens
30-32 Patriarhou Ioakeim str. Kolonaki, Athens, Tel +30 210 7259000 www.kostarelos.gr, Facebook/kostarelosgr
Don’t forget to visit the top floor café and restaurant for the best view in town. Visitors can book tickets online or buy them directly at the museum booth. Tourist groups roll in early, so try to be there before 8am.
03→ Attalos Arcade The Attalos Arcade (Stoa of Attalos) is a two-storey arcade built by king Attalos, King of Pergamon around 150 BC. It is thought to have been an ancient shopping center that housed 21 shops on each of its floors. The Arcade, now serving as the sites’ museum, forms part of the Ancient Agora, an extensive area which housed, among others, administrative buildings, shops, schools, law courts, prisons, theatres even the city mint that produced its silver coins. The Agora was the political, cultural and religious center.
20–Athens
Athenians would gather on a daily basis, not only to buy and sell their goods, but also to learn the news, to criticize the government, to debate issues or simply to gossip. This is where philosophers like Socrates spent his days debating different issues. It is dominated by three monuments: the Attalos Arcade, the Temple of Hephaisteion and the Byzantine Church of the Holy Apostles. The Arcade stood for nearly five hundred years until it was burnt down in AD 267 by the Heruli tribe. It was rebuilt by the American School of Classical Studies between 1953 and 1956 on the original foundations using the original materials and is now used as a museum which showcases all the finds from the Agora. Some of the museum’s most interesting artifacts include the klepsydra, a water clock used for timing speeches and
ancient ballot boxes for voting and children’s toys. Last year, the museum opened its first floor, for the first time after 30 years, following extensive restoration. The visitor will now have the opportunity to admire about 56 artefacts dating from the post-Classical to the Roman periods, some of which have never been exhibited before. The room will exhibit models of buildings, portraits of the Roman Agora and the warehouse which houses the findings from the surrounding area. At the same time, models of the surrounding area will allow the visitor to visually connect the Arcade with other nearby sites, such as Pnyka – the area where Athenians gathered to listen to the speeches of their leaders. The statues exhibited will be in organised in six loose groups, instead of the usual linear style. Among the groups, one
will include artefacts of the post-Classic and Hellenistic period (4th and 3rd centuries BC), another will include Roman copies of Greek classical works of the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, a third will have Roman portraits of the same period, and another will exhibit columns with busts of public officials.
04→ Syntagma Square Syntagma square is the centre of the city. Formerly a palace, the Parliament building and the square in front of it have been the ground of many important political events in the country’s history. At the front courtyard there’s the Monument to the Unknown Soldier, paying tribute to the country’s dead soldiers, as well as the colourful Evzones – traditionally dressed guards. Every hour the changing of the presidential guards gathers many spectators
LiFO Athens
151 Karaiskou str., Piraeus, Athens. Tel +30 210 4296660 www.facebook.com/ Che-Cocina-Y-Barra-Sudamericana e-mail: info@cherestaurant.gr
who enjoy seeing men in kilts performing a perfectly synchronised ceremonial. Behind the Parliament building, the National Gardens offer a much needed patch of green and shadow in the capital. They are open from sun dawn to sun dusk and are accessible from Vasilisis Amalias avenue or Irodou Attikou Street. The Gardens host about 47,000 trees and plants, a botanical museum, small ponds with fish and ducks, as well as a café. At the southern side of the Gardens, you’ll find Zappeio Mansion, a donation of the wealthy Konstantinos Zappas in the 19th century, used today as a conference centre. During the day, Zappeion serves as a getaway from the noise and the traffic of the city, while in the evening it’s a meeting point for those heading to the café, cinema or bar-restaurant located in the adjacent buildings.
22–Athens
05→ Plaka & Monastirak i The historic neighbourhood of Plaka embosoms the Acropolis Hill on all sides. Together with Monastiraki, they contain an endless variety of historic sites from different eras and civilisations –Prehistoric, Greek, Roman, Ottoman. Apart from its touristy side, Plaka is one of the few remaining neighbourhoods of the city that retain their unique neoclassical architectural style of old Athens. A walk through its winding streets is a glimpse in the way people lived and interacted with one another in the geitonia (neighbourhood) when everyone knew their neighbours and a daily stop at the café was a ritual. Perched right under the Acropolis is the quaint Anafiotika quarter, a quiet area with whitewashed Cycladic-style houses. These small houses were built by stone masons from the Cycladic island of Anafi in the mid-19th
century, who arrived in Athens to work at the construction of the royal palace after independence. The beautiful white Church of Aghios Georgios marks the area from afar. Walking towards the train lines, you enter Monastiraki, the biggest open-air museum in the country. On Adrianou Street is the Ancient Agora, the centre of government in ancient Athens, while the amazing Temple of Hephestos built in 449 BCE, is the best preserved Doric temple in Greece. At the corner of Eolou and Adrianou Streets you find the Roman Agora and the impressive, octagonal Tower of the Winds that is said to have been a sundial and a water clock. As an impressive proof of the successive civilisations that inhabited the area, inside the Roman Agora you also find the beautiful Fethiye Djami, one of the few surviving examples of Ottoman mosques in Athens. The
second one is Tsistaraki Mosque, found right on Monastiraki Square, which has been renovated and is now housing the Kyriazopoulos Folk and Ceramic Museum, with a collection of over 800 pieces of ceramics from all over the country.
06→ Numismatic Museum A massive collection of ancient coins found in Greece from antiquity through the Byzantine and modern times, is housed in a impressive building which used to be the house of German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann. One gallery is dedicated to the famous archaeologist, exhibiting personal papers and collections, while the others exhibit different type of coins found all over Greece. A famous item is the “Coin hoard from Myrina”, a vase containing 149 silver coins from Aegina. The museums’ outdoor café, apart from being one of city’s best kept secrets, LiFO Athens
32 Solonos str., Athens, Tel +30 210 361 9163, www.facebook.com/philos.athens, http://philosathens.com
offers a quick respite after a long day. 12 Panepistimiou Street, Syntagma, Tel: +30 210 3643774, Hours: Tue-Sun 08:30-15:30, Mon closed, Tickets: €6 / http://www. nma.gr / Metro: Syntagma.
07→ Benaki Museum The private museum in the city’s chic neighbourhood of Kolonaki is housed in a beautiful 19th century neo-classical mansion, donated by Greek benefactor Antonis Benakis. The first floor is dedicated to Palaeolithic and Bronze Ages, the Cycladic, Mycenaean and classical era. There is a vast collection of tools, marble vessels, golden jewelry and painted pottery, glassware, ceramics, funerary stele, murals, Fayum portraits, as well as a large collection of roman statues. Don’t miss the Fayum “Portrait
24–Athens
of a Young Man”. It’s an expressive portrait of a male form from Antinoopoli of Egypt, painted with the encaustic method on linen. It dates from the 3rd century CE and many components of the new wave in Greek painting have their roots in it. Another important painting is Theodoros Vyzakis’s painting “The Oath at Agia Lavra” (1851), a work of historic significance, whose composition marks a myth surrounding the beginning of the War for Independence in Kalavrita on the 25th of March 1821. There is an excellent collection of Byzantine icons and mosaics as well as beautifully knitted religious fabrics. The first floor offers a glimpse of 17th-18th century Greece, with a collection of traditional festive and bridal attires,
embroideries, jewelry, woodwork and items of daily use from Crete, the Dodecanese, Cyclades and Cyprus. The wooden Cretan loom is a masterpiece, as well as the wooden chests and the intricate golden jewelry. Don’t miss the reconstructions of the interiors of the houses of regional noblemen from the 18th century. The second floor showcases musical instruments and books, while the third is dedicated to post-revolutionary (post-1821) Greece. There are manuscripts by poets such as Dionysios Solomos, paintings, furniture, personal items of revolutionary figures and philhellenes like Lord Byron and items of the first royal families to rule Greece. You can also find a selection of paintings by famous 20th century Greek painters
like Nikos Eggonopoulos, as well as personal items of Nobel Prize-winners George Seferis and Odysseas Elytis. The museum has two more annexes: The modern art division at Pireos Street and the Islamic Museum in Kerameikos (see descriptions below). 1 Koumbari St. & Vas. Sofias Ave. Wednesday & Friday: 9:00 - 17:00. Thursday & Saturday: 9:00 - 24:00. Sunday: 9:00 - 15:00
08→ Byzantine & Christian museum One of the most impressive collections of Byzantine and postByzantine era artwork is stored in the Byzantine Museum. Its aim is to acquire, save, conserve, record and showcase objects of early Christian, Byzantine, Medieval and modern religious art. Its
LiFO Athens
27 Makrigianni str, Athens, Tel +30 210 923 8124 http://greektaverna.gr https://el-gr.facebook.com/Arcadia-Restaurant
25,000 objects date from the 3rd until the 20th centuries CE and originate from Greece, Asia Minor and the Balkans. Collections include among others, sculptures, icons, wall-paintings, ceramics, textiles, manuscripts, drawings and chalcography. Some of the most spectacular objects are the icons and the textiles, most of which are of unparalleled craftsmanship, like the 13th century Madonna Glykofilousa (Sweet kisser) and the silk religious frock worn by priests in the 17th century. Continue to the manuscript section and admire the beautiful scrolls, Holy Bibles and the rare Etymologikon (Grammar book) from the early 18th century. The famous icon of “Archangel Michael” (14th century) represents dedication in classical tradition. The exquisite quality of art reveals close
26–Athens
link to the Instanbul’s workshops of the first half of the 4th century. The museum also holds the Loverdos collection with its 660 religious artifacts for conservation and indefinite keeping. Don’t miss the photographic exhibition that testifies to the original architectural design of old churches that have since been remodeled or rebuilt. 22 Vasilisis Sofias Avenue, Kolonaki, Tel: +30 210 7294926 / Hrs: Mon-Sun 08:00-20:00, tickets: 8 for temporary exhibition / Metro: Evangelismos.
09→ Museum of Cycladic Art (MCA) As its name suggest, this museum showcases the largest collection of the gorgeous white marble figurines of Cycladic Art, which have influenced modern sculptors with their grace, abstractive
form and sleek surface. Most of them were discovered in tombs but their meaning is still debated. These figurines are mostly female, have their hands crossed in front of them and slightly bended knees. The seated figure raising its cup in toast is of exemplary technique, as well as the violin-shaped representing body shapes in the third millennium BC. Other displays show the marble vessels and basins used for religious and everyday activities. On the second floor you’ll find artefacts from Mycenae up until the Roman era: Hydrias, glass vessels for oils, golden objects and amphorae from Attica. The third floor houses temporary exhibitions, while the fourth floor presents the Karolos Politis collection, a rich selection of about 120 artefacts covering all periods of Greek art until the 6th century AC. The
collection includes vessels, clay pottery, and beautiful bronze helmets. After your tour, don’t forget to visit the gift shop with its beautiful replicas of the iconic Cycladic figurines. 4 Neofytou Douka street, Kolonaki, Tel: +30 210 7228321 / Hrs: Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, Tue closed / Ticket: 7, on Monday 3.5 / www.cycladic.gr / Metro: Syntagma, Evangelismos
10→ The Islamic Art museum The Islamic Art museum of Athens showcases one of the best collections of Islamic art in Europe and is spread across two neoclassical mansions. About 10,000 artefacts of the early Islamic and Ottoman periods have found their place in this modern museum, including artwork such as the Iznik ceramics, carved wooden doors, payer LiFO Athens
45-47 Voulis str. Syntagma, Athens Tel. +30 21 0323 5018
carpets, jars, bowls with intricate designs and bright colors. The first two levels trace the history of Islamic art from the 7th century until the 16th century, while the fourth level exhibits Iranian artwork of the Qajar period. The ceramic collection is one of the finest of its kind with beautiful items of the Fatimid era, detailed jewelry and calligraphic inscriptions. Among the museum’s highlights are unique pieces like the silk garments, the brass chests, carved wooden doors and Islamic tiles, as well as the detailed reconstruction of a 17th-century interior of a Cairo mansion on the third floor. During the reconstruction of the crumbling building which was to house the museum, workers uncovered part of the foundations of the ancient wall of Athens, as well as a tomb. Archaeologists examined and preserved the site and today visitors can see it at the lower lever. 22 Agion Asomaton Street & Dipylou Street, Kerameikos, Tel: +30 210 3251311 / Hrs: Thu-Sun
28–Athens
10:00-18:00, Mon-TueWed closed / Entrance: €9, / www.benaki.gr /Train: Thisio.
11→ The Archaeological Museum After its recent much needed renovation, the Archaeological Museum’s spectacular collection of art which flourished in Greece from the Neolithic times until the age of the Roman Empire, is presented in clearer fashion. The building itself carries a long history behind it. It was constructed in various phases from 1866 until 1939 on plans originally made by Ludwig Lange and remodeled by Ernst Ziller. Start with the Prehistoric collection, which includes artefacts from the Neolithic, Cycladic and Mycenaean periods, testifying to the long human presence in the area now known as Greece (6,800-3,200 BCE). The clay figurine of a man touching his head with his hand and the voluptuous female figurines are
some of the most famous Neolithic findings. As you marvel at the iconic Cycladic figurines in the next chamber, don’t miss the largest surviving female figure from Amorgos Island, as well as the amazing harpist, made from dazzling white marble. Continuing with the Mycenaean exhibit, you will be stunned by the spectacular treasures discovered in Mycenae by German legendary archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann. The collection includes stone, bronze and ceramic pots, figurines, ivory and glass objects, as well as golden seals and rings from the vaulted tombs in Mycenae and other parts of the Peloponnese. The delicate golden funerary masks, cups and jewelry, as well as the carved ivory objects found in the royal tombs testify to the sophistication of the artistry, while the Linear B inscriptions provide information on the administrative organisation of the Mycenaean world. In this department you will also
see the so-called Mask of Agamemnon, the famous gold mask covering the face of a man found in a tomb in Mycenae, originally thought to be the legendary king Agamemnon. Other masterpieces of the Museum are found in the numerous sculpture galleries, where the visitor can trace the development of Greek sculpture from the 7th century BCE to the early Byzantine period. Among other artefacts, you will see the threemetre-tall Kouros from the Temple of Poseidon in Sounio, the bronze two-metre-tall statue of a mystery God (said to be Zeus or Poseidon), and the bronze Hellenistic masterpiece of a young rider on a horse. The Museum also has an inexhaustible collection of vases, pottery, metalwork and small objects which were used in everyday life. Some of the most remarkable examples of fresco painting from the 16th century BCE come from Santorini, inspiring awe with their intricate details and LiFO Athens
119 Ermou str.& Astiggos, Athens, Tel: +30 210 3212010 http://eptarestaurantbar.gr www.facebook.com/Epta7.Restaurant.Bar
vibrant colours. Some have been transferred to the Archaeological Museum of Santorini, but the Antelope, the Boxing Children and Spring will dazzle you with their vitality and figurativeness. The Museum recently opened its excellent Egyptian collection, considered the fourth most important in Europe. The collection donated by Ioannis Dimitriou in 1880 and Alexandros Rostovic in 1904. In total, the collection includes more than 6,000 artefacts. The visitor can admire the mummies, nine of which were donated by the Egyptian government in 1893, rare statues, tools, jewels, a wooden body tag for a mummy, a stunning bronze statue of a princess, intact bird eggs and a 3,000-year-old loaf of bread with a bitesized chunk missing. The exhibition’s centerpiece is a bronze statue of the princess-priestess Takushit, dating to around 670 BCE. Further down there are also some exquisite Fayum funerary
30–Athens
portraits, with their characteristic expressive eyes. Last but not least, do not miss the collection of donors Antonis and Eleni Stathatos whose artefacts span from the 5th millennium BCE until the post-Byzantine era, and includes mostly pottery and jewelry. In 2009, a Cypriot collection of antiquities was inaugurated in the Museum, comprising of small statues, jewelry, jugs and pottery. In 2006 and 2007, new important additions were made. The Getty Museum of California returned two important artefacts which were considered to have been looted, after a 10-year-old legal dispute with the Greek government. These are a 4th century BCE golden funerary wreath and a 6th century BCE marble statue of a woman. Previously, Getty had agreed to return a 4th century BCE tombstone from an area near Thebes and a 6th century BCE votive relief from the island of Thasos.
All can be admired today in the museum. The museum is presently showcasing a temporary exhibition of The Antikythera Shipwreck (see Must-sees for details). 44 Patision Avenue, Tel: +30 213 21448000, 2144856 / Hrs: Mon 13:00-20:00, Tue-Sun 08:00-20:00/ Tickets: €10, free entrance on May 18th, June 5th, last weekend of September / http://www.namuseum.gr / Train: Victoria
12→ Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC) includes the construction and complete outfitting of new facilities for the National Library of Greece (NLG) and the Greek National Opera (GNO), as well as the creation of the 210,000 m² Stavros Niarchos Park. The project site is located 4.5 km south of the center of Athens, on the edge of Faliro Bay, and
the SNFCC is designed as a multifunctional arts, education and entertainment complex. The project’s total budget of $867mil (€620mil) includes two grants of $6mil (€5mil) each to the National Library of Greece and the Greek National Opera respectively, aiming to support the organizations’ transition to their new facilities. The SNFCC is the first private-public partnership of its type in Greece, and one of the most important civic (cultural/educational) projects ever undertaken in the country. Indoor and outdoor activities all year round that include the Greek National Opera events, music and film festivals, concerts, open space gatherings, art exhibitions and children playgrounds and areas suitable for running and biking make it an ideal space for recreation and relaxing. info@snfcc.org, Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre, 364 Syggrou Avenue, Kallithea
LiFO Athens
43 Voulis , Syntagma Athens Tel.: 210 3254429 www.turquoisejew.gmail.com
Abakos
Arcadia
LiFO Choice Athens
Skydive Athens
Asvestolakos Abakos 14 Merarchias str. & 66 Filonos, Peiraius, Tel +30 210 4525251 www.facebook.com/AbakosNo1 Well, if in Greek Abakos means eating too much, then this steakhouse located in one of the upcoming areas of Piraeus, must be one of the places you visit during your stay in Athens. The exceptional meat served here, is cooked in a Spanish traditional wooden coal oven, giving the meat a unique sense of smoked flavor. Apart from the superb steaks and fillets you will also have the chance to taste delicious burgers on Wednesdays or tapas. Accompany your meal with their rich Thai salad spiced with hot vinaigrette dressing while you are enjoying your favorite wine from the very interesting wine list with etiquettes not only from Greece but from some of the best vineyards abroad as well. 01
32–Athens
Arcadia 27 Makrigianni str, Athina, Tel +30 210 923 8124 http://greektaverna.gr https://el-gr.facebook.com/ Arcadia-Restaurant Located across the Acropolis museum, this Greek tavern is a place to be after your tour in the wider area of Plaka where some of the greatest ancient remains are located. Arcadia’s menu consists of creative traditional recipes, made with fresh products and virgin olive oil. Its famous mousaka and lamb souvlaki are among the best dishes to choose. You will find it open daily after noon untill 1.00 a.m Extra tip: Live music every Friday and Saturday night.
over 70 years, Asvestolakos is one of the historical Greek taverns in the area of Amaroussion. The traditional restaurant that first opened its doors in the 50’s with a simple menu, serving good wine and delicious meatballs, has changed a lot over the years and now the executive chef Giannis Ioannidis presents a very creative version of the Greek cuisine. Asvestolako’s menu contains many different dishes, based on traditional tastes but with a twist of high gastronomy. Everything is home – made and you can enjoy the variety of delicious dishes every night, while listening to great live music.
Asvestolakos 4 Koimiseos Theotokou str, Maroussi, Athens +30 210 8025298 www.asvestolakos.gr https://el-gr.facebook.com/ asvestolakos1948 With a tradition that counts
SKYDIVE ATHENS The best way to let yourself into the world of freefall Jump from 14,000 feet attached to your instructor with a parachute built for two, and let this be the ride
02
03
04
of your life! Our trained and experienced instructors are making it easy for you to enjoy the exciting sport of skydiving with a fantastic introduction to the world of freefall. You will be harnessed to the front of a fully licensed, professional and friendly tandem instructor. Your instructor is in charge every step of the way, from aircraft exit, to freefall, (for about 1 minute at 220 kph!), to a scenic canopy ride (about 6-8 minutes), to a comfortable, accurate landing. The scenic airport of Kopaida is only 1 hour drive from Athens! Book now, as our availability is limited. www.skydive-athens.gr or call us at +30 697 0300 222 This summer our team expects you in Crete as well, at Maleme airport of Chania. www.skydive-crete.gr or call us at +30 697 0300 222
LiFO Athens
Cava Ermou Spirits Pittaras
LiFO Choice Athens
Cinque Wine & Deli Bar
Che Cava Ermou Spirits Pittaras 90 Ermou str.Monastiraki, Athens, Tel +30 210 32 29 999 14 Argirokastrou str., Zografou , Tel +30 21 0770 4627 3-5 Spryrou Trikoupi str, Exarhia, Athens, Tel +30 210 380 3801 26 Andrea Metaxa str. Exarhia, Athens, Tel +30 210 330 1331 www.facebook.com/ cavapittaras https://cavapittaras.olympicbiz.com Located in the mercantile street of the Greek capital, Cava Pittaras is not just a wine cellar where you can find great wines from Greece and vineyards from all over the world, but also a place, which offers a unique wine tasting experience. Choose 05
34–Athens
your favorite wine or a glass of our premium spirits from our exceptional list, or try a beer from a list with the best beers made in small breweries. Do not forget to pick a gift for your beloved ones, by choosing a beautiful basket with wines and spirits. Che 151 Karaiskou str, Peiraius, Athens, +30 210 4296660 The new arrival in the gastronomical map of Peiraius is Che and it is a reason itself to visit the biggest harbor in Greece. Che is the ideal place to taste some Latin American recipes, in a magnificent environment that resembles to an authentic Mexican hacienda. Greeted by the huge coloured mural of Frida Kahlo you enter to a very beautiful 06
garden where you can enjoy your meal, choosing among enchiladas, Black Angus picahna, the famous Mexican Chimichanga and fresh fish made the way Indians use to cook them. You can accompany them with a signature cocktail of a very interesting list based mostly on tequila and rum. Cinque Wine & Deli Bar 15 Agatharchou str, Athens, Tel +30 21 5501 7853 www.cinque.gr www.facebook.com/cinque. winebar For those seeking a truly fine wine tasting experience in Athens, the Cinque Wine & Deli Bar would be by far one of the top choices. Well known not only to the people of the Greek capital but also to the users of Trip 07
Advisor, where it is ranks first among over 3.000 spots for food. The passion of the family behind this unique wine bar has driven to a very interesting wine list with varieties from the Greek vineyards, some of which are famous all over the world and/or very rare. At Cinque Wine & Deli Bar you will also taste some delicious cheese and cold cuts made in different areas in the country and other delicacies, while you ‘ll learn a lot about the philosophy of wine in Greece
LiFO Athens
Showroom Fran & Lili, 1st Floor, 64 Ermou str, Monastiraki, +30 210 3258545 www.franandlili.gr
Kostarelos Creamery
DNA stars
LiFO Choice Athens
Erotokritos
Beluga Kostarelos Creamery 30-32 Patriarhou Ioakeim str. Kolonaki, Athens, Tel +30 210 7259000 www.kostarelos.gr Facebook/kostarelosgr Well known to the people of Athens for its awarded dairy products and especially its 12-month maturation feta cheese, the queen of Greek cheeses, Kostarelos is a unique delicatessen where you can taste some of the best products made in Greece. With an eight decades’ presence in the art of cheese making, this store in Kolonaki introduces a wide variety of cheese like low fat graviera and tsalafouti, but also delicious creams and yogurts, all made with fresh milk. In this elegant homely deli store, apart from buying your delicacies, you can also enjoy your breakfast, by choosing from a menu based on the prime products of the store. The range of dishes 08
36–Athens
varies from sandwiches, salads, fondue and unique cheese plateaus that will satisfy the most refined palates. DNA stars Info 7 Lekka str, Athens, Tel +30 21 0331 0484 www. facebook.com/annadna18/ Located in a central spot of Athens, DNA stars presents for over 20 years now, exquisite clothes for every woman who wants to look like a star! In this beautiful boutique you will find some of the most sophisticated clothing all tailored by local brands next to all the cutting edge brands from Europe and the US. Among others you can choose clothes from Intropia (Spain), Karavan (Greece), Miss Mochila (Latin America), Madame Shou Shou (Greece), Orion (UK), Bonsui (UK) ,Foteinh Karagianni (Greece), Juno and Nidodileda. 09
Make a stop and discover the summer collection. Epta 7 119 Ermou str.& Astiggos, Athens, Tel: +30 210 3212010 http:// eptarestaurantbar.gr www. facebook.com/Epta7.Restaurant.Bar If there were just one place you would visit while first time in Greece that would definitely be the ancient rock of Acropolis in Athens. Well, imagine being able to enjoy your meal or drink with an extraordinary view to one of the greatest historical places in the world. In Epta 7, a modern bar restaurant with a stylish decoration, you can taste Mediterranean dishes, made with the best ingredients from all over the country spiced up with unique herbals. Choose a signature cocktail from the very interesting list in one of the most elegant terraces in 10
the city, or get comfortable in one of the private tables and gaze at the ancient ruins that lay under your feet. Erotokritos 3 Kaniggos str. Athens, Tel +30 210 3812583 www.facebook.com/souvlaki.erorokritos, www. souvlaki-erotokritos.gr/ restaurant.php Once in Greece you have to taste the famous Greek souvlaki. Erotokritos is definitely one of the best choices to try both of them, during your stay in Athens. Located in a central road, this traditional restaurant offers a simple menu based on carefully selected meat from the best there is in the market. Enjoy a portion of pork or chicken gyros, taste a delightful souvlaki or its famous spicy kebab or simply have it wrapped, and enjoy it like a true Greek. Tasty and cheap, you ‘ll just love it. 11
LiFO Athens
Epta 7
Ethos Juices Ethos Juices 30 Petraki str. Syntagma, Athens, Tel: +30 210 3249945 http://ethosjuices.gr, www. facebook.com/ethosjuices If you are a passionate of healthy diet, then you must definitely make a stop at Ethos Juice bar in Syntagma square Athens. There is no better way than starting your day with a fresh organic juice or a smoothie. Made with the cold press method and bottled immediately in order to keep their freshness, Ethos offers a wide range of juices and detox beverages for every taste. In addition, if you are a coffee lover you must try their premium blend. Finally yet importantly don’t leave the place without tasting some of their delicious, healthy snack options. 12
Summer 2017
Beluga 8-10 Merarchias 2 str, Piraeus, Tel +30 210 4116505 www.facebook.com/Beluga The atmospheric decoration of Beluga will just fascinate you the minute you set foot in this beautiful establishment. Located in one of the most historic and upcoming areas of Piraeus, Beluga is definitely a place you should visit. Artistic, with jazz and swing music, it often hosts interesting events connected with the history of this area. Its cuisine not only presents delightful dishes based on Greek recipes but some worldwide flavors as well. Take a seat in the restaurant area, pick a great wine among its very interesting wine list and let your gaze travel along the ancient walls of Piraeus that lie down the glass bottom restaurant. 13
2 Athanasiou Axarlian str (ex Lekka) & Voulis str., Syntagma square Tel.: 210 3310484
Athens–37
Fran & Lili e-boutique
fullSpoon
LiFO Choice Athens
Onion Athens Fran & Lili e-boutique Fran & Lili, 1st Floor, 64 Ermoustr, Monastiraki, +30 210 3258545 The Fran & Lili e-boutique, welcomes you to explore a completely new aspect of Athens; a place where style and exceptional clothes coexist near Monastiraki sqr in the very heart of the capital’s commercial center. Among its clothes and accessories, you will discover some of the most well-known Greek Designers, such as Milkwhite and Clic Jewels along with European ones, such as Compania Fantastica and Sister Jane. While the e- boutique offers you the convenience of the e-commerce, you can also visit the showroom, and 14
38–Athens
get to meet Fran & Lili the owners, two girls full with style, fun, great taste and of course, true Athenians. fullSpoon 123 Ermou str, Monastiraki, Athens, Tel +30 210 8003006 www.fullspoon.gr, www. facebook.com/fullSPOON. gr Nothing beats a refreshing ice cream in a hot summer day, better yet when it is combined with another treat such as a handmade profiterole. While in Athens, make a stop at Full Spoon, this cozy and delightful pastry and coffee shop downtown. With dozens of different flavors, all made with fresh ingredients, without addi15
tives or colorings, this place is a well-known destination for those who adore quality ice cream and sorbet. Apart from the ice cream you have to try its exquisite tsoureki, the Greek alternative to brioche or panettone, delicious profiteroles prepared with your choice of cream or ice cream fillings and topped with warm or cold chocolate sauce, or the trifles served with florentines and fresh strawberries.
Lovers who visit the center of Athens this summer? Prepare four iconic plates of the Greek cuisine and taste the Greek wines and spirits that go with them! Cook with friends the Greek way, together with other foodies, following step by step instructions, sharing stories on the recipes and the ingredients but also on the history of Greek food. The final dishes will be yours to take home.
Onion Athens 34 Kolokotroni str, Athens Nearby metro stations: Monastiraki, Syntagma and Panepistimio How about some Cooking Lessons for the Food 17
LiFO Athens
95 Sapfous str. Kallithea, Athens. Tel: 210 9562300, www.facebook.com/momokallithea
LiFO Choice Athens
Koursaros Info 11 Omirou str & Vissarionos, Athens, Tel +30 210 3600326 www.koursaroskolonaki.gr www.instagram.com/koursaroskolonakimykonos www.facebook.com/koursaros.restaurant.kolonaki. mykonos Opening Hours: Monday – Saturday 12:00- 01:00, Sunday 17:00- 00:00 Those who have been to Mykonos probably already know Koursaros for its exquisite seafood. With more than 20 years of experience, since the first restaurant the family has opened in Drosia at the north part of Athens and later on in the famous island of Cyclades, Koursaros just got a new spot. While in Athens, do not forget to visit Kolonaki, where the heart of the city beats. 18
Koursaros
The brand new Koursaros restaurant as opened its doors and welcomes you in this elegant space with a menu based mostly on seafood and the freshest of fish, while presenting authentic tastes of the Greek and the Mediterranean cuisine.
30 Petraki str. Syntagma, Athens, Tel: +30 210 3249945 http://ethosjuices.gr www.facebook.com/ethosjuices 40–Athens
LiFO Athens
Abakos is widely known for its delicious premium quality meats, its two storey burgers and its amazing tapas dishes. All meats are prepared in a traditional wood oven giving a smoked twist and a full flavor to their taste. Choose a bottle of wine from a wide selection of both Greek and international vineyards and enjoy yourself at the cozy restaurant lounge with the wooden interiors or alternatively make yourself comfortable at a table on their beautiful terrace. Opening Hours: 13:00 - 01:00
14 Merarchias str. & 66 Filonos, Peiraius, Tel +30 210 4525251 www.facebook.com/AbakosNo1
Philos Athens
Portrait Athens Philos Athens 32 Solonos str, Athens, Tel +30 210 361 9163, www.facebook.com/philos. athens, http://philosathens. com This old neoclassic house in the heart of Athens has been fully renovated with respect to the history and architecture of the establishment, with the aim to preserve its glamor and nobility. Philos is a concept store where you can do your shopping by choosing among carefully selected objects, furniture and clothes. Stroll around the rooms and take your seat in one of its tables to enjoy your coffee or drink. Famous for its brunch, listed as one of the best in the city of Athens, do not leave without tasting its delicious open sandwich with avocado and poached eggs, the Philos Benedict eggs, but also the pancakes with mixed berries. 19
4 Koimiseos Theotokou, Maroussi, Athens +30 210 8025298 www.asvestolakos.gr https://el-gr.facebook.com/asvestolakos1948 42–Athens
Portrait Athens 45-47 Voulis str. Syntagma, Athens Located in a lovely neighborhood, near Syntagma square, in the center of Athens, Portrait Athens is one of the best choices to relax after a day of shopping and sightseeing. Vintage decoration that brings Parisian bistros to mind and jazz / rock music that calls you for a refreshing drink makes the Portrait Athens the absolute meeting point for those who choose to go downtown for their night out. Enjoy a cold beer, signature cocktails and exclusive spirits or just a glass of wine by choosing among a unique list of Greek wines. Extra tip: Ask for their cheese plateaus, cold cuts and jams, all carefully selected among the best in Greece. 20
LiFO Choice Athens
LiFO Athens
90 ERMOU STR. MONASTIRAKI, ATHENS, TEL +30 210 32 29 999 14 ARGIROKASTROU STR., ZOGRAFOU , TEL +30 21 0770 4627 3-5 SPRYROU TRIKOUPI STR, EXARHIA, ATHENS, TEL +30 210 380 3801 26 ANDREA METAXA STR. EXARHIA, ATHENS, TEL +30 210 330 1331
www.facebook.com/cavapittaras kavapittaras.olympicbiz.com
LiFO Choice Athens
Royal Curry House
Turquoise Royal Curry House 7 Voulgari str. & Peiraios, Athens, Tel +30 215 5359222, www.facebook. com/royalcurrygr With a truly creative menu Royal Curry House, a true blue Asian restaurant, will take you on a journey through taste to India, China, Arabia, Thailand and Pakistan. Dishes with rich flavors full of exotic spices and colors will satisfy the most demanding palates. It is highly recommended for vegans and those who love eating fish! Come and enjoy a full meal for the value of only 10 euros per person. 21
3 Kaniggos str. Athens, Tel +30 210 3812583 www.facebook.com/souvlaki.erorokritos, www.souvlaki-erotokritos.gr/restaurant.php 44–Athens
Turquoise 43 Voulis str., Syntagma, Athens With almost 40 years of experience, this shop in the center of Athens, very close to Syntagma square, is a well-known destination for those looking for a present. A family business that collaborates with many remarkable brands both from Greece and other countries, presents a wide collection of accessories, perfect for gifts. Visit this lovely store and discover among others some unique jewelry for you and your beloved ones. 22
LiFO Athens
Αgatharchou 15, 10554 Psyrri Athens, Tel +30 21 5501 7853 www.cinque.gr, https://el-gr.facebook.com/cinque.winebar/
Μοmο
Melissinos Art – The poet sandal maker ΜΟΜΟ 95 Sapfous str. Kallithea, Athens, www. facebook.com/momokallithea With its American style not only in decoration but also in the menu, Momo is definitely one of the best choices if you want to brunch in Athens. Take a seat in the lovely garden and enjoy a tasteful brunch from the wide range of dishes in this cozy all day bar. From eggs Benedict or Florentine to delicious burgers, melt cheese sandwiches, hot dogs and fresh salads, Momo presents many tastes. In addition, if you are in a mood for something sweet, keep in mind they make delicious pancakes among a very interesting carte with pastries. Extra tip: Free filter coffee, but if you are a coffee lover, order a premium espresso Sant-Eustachio, from the most famous coffee grinder of Rome. 23
7 Voulgari str. & Peiraios, Athens, Tel +30 215 5359222, www.facebook.com/royalcurrygr
LiFO Choice Athens
46–Athens
Melissinos Art – The poet sandal maker 2 Agias Theklas str., Psirri, Athens, Tel +30 2103219247 16 Tziraion str. & Athanasiou Diakou, Athens (by appointment only) www.melissinos-art.com, www.melissinos-poet.com, www.melissinospoetsandalmaker.com www.facebook.com/ MelissinosArtThePoetSandalMaker From Anthony Queen and Rudolph Nureyev to the legendary Beatles, Melissinos sandals have attracted some of the biggest names in art and show biz and have travelled all over the world for the last 90 years. Located in Lord Byron’s old Athenian neighborhood, near Monastiraki Square, this store is a meeting place for art, poetry, music, theater and of course sandals! Known as the poet sandal maker, Pantelis Melissinos continuing the family business and art that inherited from his father and grandfather makes hand crafted leather sandals inspired by ancient Greek mythology and history. At his workshop apart from its unique shoes, you will also find leather bags, belts and wonderful jewelry. 24
LiFO Athens
Welcome to the
Islands
48–Athens
LiFO Greek Islands
Summer 2017
Athens–49
01.
Mykonos
→ Even since the first hippies and bohemians arrived on the island in the 1960’s, Mykonos has become a Mediterranean staple for jet-setters and celebrities, as well as a place where freedom of expression, creativity and diversity are celebrated. Famously gay-friendly and cosmopolitan, Mykonos is an 50–Mykonos
LiFO Greek Islands
Little Venice
island with a magical vibe that has something for everyone: families with children will enjoy themselves as much as party-goers, and one can either spend an afternoon dancing with drag queens in a pool, or unwind in absolute peace on remote beaches away from the touristy crowds. History buffs and art lovers Summer 2017
will also be thrilled to discover local handicrafts, well-preserved traditional architecture, illustrious ancient ruins and world-class contemporary art, all in one fantasy of a destination that will spoil you and seduce you like no other Greek island will.
Mykonos–51
Super Paradise
Beaches Mykonos is called the island of the winds, and not without good reason, as the summer etesian winds (meltemia in Greek) blow from the north throughout the summer. Choose your beach depending on where the wind is blowing from, which means usually it’s the southern beaches that are the safest bet. Of the island’s 22 or so beaches, most are
accessible by car, taxi or public bus, and are wellorganised with sunbeds, umbrellas and bars/restaurants. On the more lively south coast, picturesque bays follow one another, spoiling visitors for choice with their clear waters and pristine sands. For a party vibe, loud music, fancy food and the trendiest crowds head to Kalo Livadi, Elia, Super Para-
MYKONOS Starbucks chilled classic coffee beverages. Your cosmopolitan walks in Mykonos go along with Starbucks Chilled Caffè Latte, which combines high quality Starbucks coffee with milk. Seek your favorite taste at grocery & convenient stores and kiosks. and enjoy your summer vacations like never before.
56–Mykonos
dise, Paradise, Paraga, or Psarou beaches. Kalafatis and Lia are on the southeast coast, and are popular for their watersports and scuba diving. For fresh fish seek out the tiny bay of Agia Anna near Kalafatis—while families with children and yachters might opt for the well-sheltered Ornos bay, which is closer to Mykonos town, or Megali Ammos when it’s not very windy. Platys Gialos is also very popular but touristy, and Agios Ioannis is on the southwest, boasting great sunset views and a picture-perfect panorama of Delos. Most of the southern beaches are serviced regularly by boat taxis that depart from Ornos bay and Platys Gialos every hour, which makes it easy to hop from one beach to the other, and offer the perfect means to make an entrance at the beach party in true Greek movie-style.
The northern beaches of Mykonos are more exposed to the winds and hence much less crowded. Here the landscape is completely different, with harsher rock cliffs, pebbly beaches and a sense of unspoiled wilderness. These beaches don’t have umbrellas or sunbeds and are not serviced by public bus. Panormos and Agios Sostis are perhaps the pair of most beautiful beaches on Mykonos, where the former is popular with surfers and the latter welcomes nudists and pets. Ftelia is also within the Panormos bay, but is extremely windy, hence its popularity with windsurfers. Fokos is a remote rocky cove on the northeast coast of Mykonos that offers the perfect place to get away from it all, and also has a small restaurant. The nearby beach of Myrsini is even more secluded.
LiFO Greek Islands
Delos
Sights & Experiences A must-visit when on Mykonos is the nearby ancient sanctuary of Delos (+30 22890 22259), which is so well-preserved that it’s often called “the Pompeii of Greece”. Delos was a sacred island in antiquity and was considered the birthplace of Apollo, the god of light, and his sister, the huntress goddess Artemis. In Hellenistic times Delos prospered as a cosmopolitan city of commerce and culture, pretty much anticipating what Mykonos has become today. A boat ticket to Delos is €20, and the ticket to the archaeological site is €12 (concessions apply). Mykonos town is protected as a monument in
58–Mykonos
its entirety because of its traditional architecture, so simply take a walk along the labyrinthine alleys to take an imaginary trip back to the time of pirates and cannon fights. The neighbourhood of Alefkantra is particularly beautiful and has the island’s only Catholic church, while the Old Port promenade is lined with old mansions once belonging to wealthy captains and merchants. Other sights in Mykonos town include the iconic Windmills, Agias Kyriakis Square and the famous Little Venice, with its colourful houses built right on the water. For a day outside of Mykonos town head to Ano Mera, the island’s only village, and visit the Panagia Tourliani
monastery (+30 22890 71249), built in 1542.
Culture & Events The Mykonos Archaeological Museum (+30 2289 022325) houses ancient ceramic treasures from Delos and other sites, and is currently hosting the well-curated exhibition Vanity, featuring ancient and contemporary Greek jewellery (open through October). In the Mykonos Folklore Museum (+30 22890 22591), visitors can find a collection of historic artefacts, traditional handiwork and documents of Mykonos’ past. The Mykonos Municipal Gallery (+30 22890 27791) is housed in the former home of local
painter Maria Igglezi, and is hosting art exhibitions throughout the summer. For more contemporary and international art visit Dio Horia Contempoary Art Platform (www.diohoria.com), with exciting exhibition openings on 28 July and 25 August. Rarity Gallery (+30 2289 025761) also hosts international artists, with exhibitions opening on 16 July and 01 August. The Mykonos Biennale is organising its third edition this year under the title ‘Trans Allegoria’, with a programme that includes film screenings and performances (01-05 September, www. mykonosbiennale.com). To close the season, Cine Manto open-air cinema hosts a festival with docu-
LiFO Greek Islands
KOUZI GEORGOULI, 18, MÝKONOS, TEL: 22890 27019 FB: PEPPERMYKONOS WWW.PEPPER-MYKONOS.COM
The windmills
mentaries by Andonis Theocharis Kioukas from 02-08 October (www. cinemanto.gr). It is typical on the Greek islands for locals to organise festivals known as panygiria throughout the year, which coincide with religious holidays. On Mykonos the most popular of these festivals is the Dormition of Mary (15 August), which is celebrated at the landmark monastery of Panagia Tourliani in Ano Mera village; other popular panygiria on Mykonos are Agia Anna (25th of July) and Agios Ioannis (26th of September), both on the beaches names after these two saints. Panygiria are a good opportunity to taste local food and wine, and also to buy traditional arts and crafts such as the colourful woven textiles and elaborate lace made by Mykonian women.
Getting Around: The easiest and most
60–Mykonos
comfortable way of moving around is by taxi, but in the summer months demand is high so you might have to wait a while in order to catch a ride. There are fixed rates for trips within the island, which you can find on the official Mykonos taxi website (mykonostaxi. com). Local buses will also take you to most beaches and the village of Ano Mera, and is a much cheaper alternative to taxis. Renting a car, scooter or quad bike is also an option for reaching distant beaches and landmarks. For a more traditional mode of transportation, small boats (qaïques) departing from Ornos and Platys Gialos make stops at all the southern beaches hourly (10:00-17:00, 10 euros return ticket, 20 euros day pass).
More to Know → Umbrellas and sunbeds on the more popular beaches can be hard to find on busy days, so plan
ahead and consider booking your sunbeds or tables in advance. → The parties are on the south coast but the hidden beauties of Mykonos lie in the north. Try a horseback tour to explore the island’s natural landscape. → Some designer clothes and accessories can be found exclusively on Mykonos. Seek them out οn Matoyianni and nearby alleys. → If you’re travelling as a group, you might consider a private boat trip to Delos and Rhenia to visit the archaeological site and swim in pristine, unspoiled beaches. → For a more relaxed evening out head to the open-air cinema Manto for a film screening under the stars. → Rent a car or ask a taxi to bring you to Armenistis Lighthouse, a now abandoned lighthouse built in 1840 in order to illuminate the traits between Mykonos and the nearby island of Tinos. Time your visit right, and
you’ll be in for the most spectacular sunset on Mykonos. → If you feel like taking a hike and seeing Mykonos from above, you can climb the hill of Profitis Ilias, which has a chapel on the top and offers 360-degree views of the entire island.
Getting there
It’s very easy to reach Mykonos, as it is one of the most popular Greek destinations. Especially in the summer, boats depart daily from the ports of Piraeus and Rafina near Athens, as well as from most Cycladic islands. There are also direct flights to Mykonos from Athens (40 minutes), Thessaloniki (1 hour) and some European airports. The New Port of Mykonos also offers berths and marina services (electricity and water only) for private yachts
LiFO Greek Islands
6 Agion Anargyron str., Chora of Mykonos, Tel +30 22890 29087 Facebook: @Somnium.mykonos, Instagram: somnium.mykonos
Emmanouella΄s
Porta Bar
LiFO Choice Mykonos
Pepprer Emmanouella΄s 21 Kalogera str.tel: 22890 77970 fb: Emmanouellas Mykonos, insta : Emmanouella΄s The new luxury showroom “Emmanouella΄s Mykonos” opens its imposing doors to welcome us with style in a unique place made out of pebbles and pleny of light. Greek designers and selected foreign brands with Grecian sandals, bohemian embroidered handbags, minimal Mao shirtdresses, tutu skirts, handmade jewelry and personal collection Emmanouella΄s silk Mykonos is only the beginning. 01
62–Mykonos
Porta Bar Mykonos, Greece, Tel +30 2289 027087 www.facebook.com/ThePorta-Bar-of-MykonosGreece Everyone knows that Mykonos is by far the top island destination in Greece for those who seek not only wonderful sandy beaches and great food, but also great nightlife. Operating since 1979 and with a Mykonian atmosphere “Porta Bar” of Mykonos brings a little sparkle to the nightlife of the island and you should stop by at least once while on vacation there. Its friendly staff along with 02
a wide range of refreshing cocktails promise unforgettable nights accompanied with perfect DJ sounds. Pepprer Souvlaki and more 18, Kouzi Georgouli. Tel: 22890 27019 https://el-gr.facebook.com/ Peppermykonos It made its debut in 2013 in one of the most central places of Mykonos and ever since the people of «Pepprer Souvlaki and more» with emphasis on fresh ingredients, keep up with the same philosophy and faith concerning the best quality. In one of the characteristic white narrows of Chora, 03
you will taste the flavors of a truly unique grill house at this elegant place and you will enjoy rich dishes based on the Greek cuisine. As you can imagine by its name, souvlaki here holds a prominent place in the menu and it’s a real masterpiece! Mykonos Hotel Andronikos Drafaki +30 22890 24231, email: info@andronikos.gr, www.andronikos.gr Andronikos Hotel is an upscale, cosmopolitan resort situated at the edge of Mykonos town with splendid views of the Aegean Sea and the sunset. Andronikos is spread across a large 04
LiFO Greek Islands
Mykonos Hotel Andronikos
LiFO Choice Mykonos
Enny Monaco area of 90000 sq. feet and is the ultimate choice when it comes to Mykonos’ lifestyle. It combines easy access to the beaches and the town, newly designed spaces that inspire the senses, exquisite dining at the award winner Lady Finger Greek gourmet restaurant and a relaxed yet funky atmosphere at the popular Orange Blue Bar. Andronikos Hotel evolves into a new era of hospitality by introducing the “total hotel experience”concept. Mikònu Craft Beer Argyraina, Mykonos, 22890 77912. Mykonos Island has yet another reason to be proud 05
64–Mykonos
Natura restaurant of, apart from everything that has made it one of the top destinations worldwide. The Mik`onu beer is the first brewery of the island and you cannot miss tasting its unique beers. Ask for The Blonde Saison which is a complex brew of Belgian origin with rich foam and fruity yeast aromas, designed to pleasantly accompany any dish, or the Pale Ale, mildly bitter and highly aromatic ale. Both of them are made from hard to find hops and come in unique black bottles with the mythological story of Giants in Mykonos imprinted on them.
Natura restaurant Leto hotel Chora, 22890 22207/ letohotel. com In one of the most classic hotels in the center of Chora, Natura restaurant combines an amazing summer romantic mood and fine dining with a view of Mykonos port and Aegean blue. In the beautiful garden-oasis of the hotel the chef revive old Greek recipes with new techniques, respecting tradition with an organic approach proving that food isn’t just enjoyment but a philosophy and a way of life. Take a culinary journey that will transport you to colors and aromas of another time with fresh local products and excellent 06
ingredients. Enny Monaco Tria Pigadia 22890 77100 ennydimonaco.com There is not chance that any fashion lover will not put a visit to Enny Monaco on their to-do list because they know that they will find here the famous collections of Azzendine Alaia,Oscar de la renta,Gucci,Balmain, Mary Katrantzou etc. as well as the coveted red soles of the star shoemaker Christian Louboutin. The Enny Monaco store has what men and women are looking for their outfits: top brands and high quality. 07
LiFO Greek Islands
Mýkonos, Greece, Tel +30 2289 027087 www.facebook.com/ The-Porta-Bar-of-Mykonos-Greece
Minas
Chora
LiFO Choice Mykonos
Koursaros
Somnium Minas Aghias Kyriakis sq. 22890 27320 If the island was a jewel it would have been a masterpiece created by Minas.From the Jolly Roger and the girl from Rio to the double star (if you are going past the Astra bar look up - does it remind you of something?) every design by the talented Minas is literally a small work of art. Fortunately his sons seem to have inherited his talent- which means that the shop that looks like a gallery is expected to be a reference point on the island for many years to come. 08
Chora main road Ano Mera 22890 71107/ Florou Zouganeli 43 str., Ano Matogianni Chora 22890 79363 09
66–Mykonos
Get ideas and decorate your home with the unique art and design items you will find at “Chora art home & design” .The professional look of the experts and especially Kelly’s will give life to your decorative vision and will transform your spaces in a way you will love them forever. Somnium 6 Agion Anargyron str., Chora of Mykonos, Tel +30 22890 29087 Facebook: @Somnium. mykonos, Instagram: somnium.mykonos Mykonos is not only one of the top destinations to live your myth in Greece, but also an ideal place for shopping, as it hosts many interesting fashion brands. And is there anything better to buy than a hand crafted 10
piece of jewel to remind you of this unique island? Somnium is a store in the heart of Mykonos, somewhere between the so called “Little Venice” and Castro that presents an impressive collection of jewelry mad by some of the best Greek designers that are some kind or artwork. From classic pieces to modern, urban style and glam rock, Somnium’s jewelry is the perfect choice for all those want to make the difference. Koursaros 11 Omirou str & Vissarionos, Athens, Tel +30 210 3600326 www.koursaroskolonaki.gr www.instagram.com/koursaroskolonakimykonos www.facebook.com/koursaros.restaurant.kolonaki. mykonos 11
Opening Hours: Monday – Saturday 12:00- 01:00, Sunday 17:00- 00:00 Those who have been to Mykonos probably already know Koursaros for its exquisite seafood. With more than 20 years of experience, since the first restaurant the family has opened in Drosia at the north part of Athens and later on in the famous island of Cyclades, Koursaros just got a new spot. While in Athens, don’t forget to visit Kolonaki, where the heart of the city beats. The brand new Koursaros has opened its doors and welcomes you in this elegant space with a menu based mostly on seafood and the freshest of fish, presenting authentic tastes of the Greek and the Mediterranean cuisine.
LiFO Greek Islands
02.
Santorini
68–Santorini
→ If one had to choose a single photo to describe the Greek islands, that would be the panorama of whitewashed houses and blue church domes on the cliffs of Santorini. Quintessentially Cycladic and effortlessly cosmopolitan,
LiFO Greek Islands
this volcanic island offers refined hospitality and unique experiences that live up to its reputation as the most visited island in the world. Bask in the sun surrounded by colourful cliffs, enjoy a meal on a terrace with jaw-dropping views of the caldera,
Summer 2017
then join a party until dawn with international DJs on a beach covered with volcanic sand. Visually stunning and personally intimate, Santorini may appear harsh at first—but the more you know it, the more you fall in love with its rough, distilled beauty.
Santorini–69
70–Santorini
LiFO Greek Islands
Red Beach
How to get there It’s very easy to arrive on Santorini either by land or air. Ferries depart from Piraeus and Rafina to Santorini daily, as well as from most Cycladic ports. Santorini airport (JTR) has direct flights to Athens, Thessaloniki and over 20 European airports, most of them available only during the
SANTORINI Starbucks chilled classic coffee beverages Your summer will become sweeter with the Starbucks Chilled Caramel Macchiato wherever you are in Santorini. You can find it everywhere at grocery & convenient stores and kiosks.
72–Santorini
summer season. Private yachts can berth at the marina at Vlychada (provides electricity, water, wifi), and there are helipads both on the main island and the small islet of Thirasia. The capital of Santorini is Fira, and important villages are Oia, Imerovigli, Emporeios, Kamari and Akrotiri. The name of
the main port is Athinio, and is approximately 20 minutes from Fira and 40 minutes from Oia.
Beaches Because of the volcanic rocks and strong presence of the elements, Santorini boasts some of the most unique beaches in the Cyclades. Minerals in unusual colours and lava create a truly amazing landscape for swimming that has nothing to do with the typical sandy beaches found elsewhere, but are just as beautiful to swim and relax. Monolithos beach is on the west tip of the island, and is fully organised with umbrellas, bars and beach sports. This is a spot popular with families, and takes its name from the huge monolith nearby. A bit to the north lies the beach of Exo Gyalos, which often hosts DJ parties during
the summer. Kamari is one of the most popular beaches in the Cyclades, that attracts a cosmopolitan crowd and has everything from hotels to restaurants and bars. On the southeast coast you will find a long stretch of beach that connects the villages of Agios Georgios (Perivolos) and Perissa with dark volcanic sand. There are many bars along the beach, and there are also watersports available at Perissa. The beach at Vlychada is facing southwest and has an impressive landscape of cliffs and sea caves that is unique to the island. One of the most famous beaches on Santorini is the Red Beach, near the village of Akrotiri: it lies at the foot of a red volcanic cliff, and has some sunbeds and a cafĂŠ. You can either walk down the hillside to reach the beach or take a boat LiFO Greek Islands
Perivolos-Agios georgios beach, Santorini, Tel. : 0030 2286082801 www.seaside-restaurant.gr www.facebook.com/seaside.restaurant.santorini
from Akrotiri, but make sure you arrive early to get a spot. For a more quiet option head to the nearby White Beach, which is secluded and much smaller.
Sights & Experiences The most enchanting feature of Santorini is of course the fact that it’s an active volcano, and the way its most impressive villages are built right on the lip of a 300-meter-deep caldera. The Santorini volcano erupted thousands of years ago with such force, that the island collapsed into the sea and only a small part remained in the form we see it today. The eruption and the ensuing tsunami destroyed entire civilisations at the time, but it also created one of the most breathtaking views in the world: an archipelago of dark rock formations floating in the Aegean blue like in a hazy dream. One of the best experiences on Santorini is to take a boat tour inside the caldera and visit all the amazing beaches and volcanos scattered inside. You can swim at the hot
74–Santorini
springs on the island of Old Kameni, and visit the volcano’s crater on Nea Kameni. Ideal for a day trip is the small island of Thirasia, where you can spend a day away from the crowds and explore the little village there. Ideally you will book a private boat tour, in order to reach all the secluded beaches and avoid the crowds. The villages on the edge of the caldera, such as Oia and Fira, have the best views and are famous for their denselybuilt Cycladic houses. There are easy trails connecting these villages together, so if you enjoy walking, you can walk along the caldera and discover unexpected views. Time your excursion right and you might reach Oia just in time for the famed Santorini sunset, which is considered the best in the world. In the island’s mainland you will find traditional villages with ancient vineyards and wineries. Santorini has been producing wine for thousands of years, and has developed its own varieties of grape and wine. Visit the village of Messaria, which
is right in the heart of Santorini’s wine region, for local wine tasting and to explore its interesting mix of architecture. Before it was destroyed by the volcanic eruption, Santorini was an important centre of the Minoan civilisation, and the archaeological site at Akrotiri revealed the tip of a prosperous prehistoric city buried in volcanic ash. You can visit the mansions buried there and admire the masterful frescoes adorning the walls. The archaeological site of Ancient Thira is built on top of a hill on the east coast, and is only accessible via a long stepped path. The highest point of Santorini is the mountain of Profitis Ilias, which is one of the most important monastic sites in the Cyclades; you can visit the monastery of Profitis Ilias both for its architecture and its splendid views.
Culture & Events A must-visit on Santorini is the unique in Greece Museum of Prehistoric Thira (+30 22860 23217), which houses the treasures and artefacts discovered at Akrotiri.
The Archaeological Museum of Thira (+30 22860 22217) presents findings from excavations on Santorini from the Archaic, Classical and later periods, while at the Icons & Relics Collection (+30 22860 31812) in Pyrgos you will find Late Byzantine and Medieval works of art. A 19th-century mansion in Oia now houses the Naval & Maritime Museum of Santorini (+30 22860 71156), which documents the island’s long seafaring tradition; on the other side of the island, at the village of Vothonas, a cave has been transformed into a Wine Museum (+30 22860 31322), and walks visitors through the art of making wine on Santorini. In the village of Perissa there is also a Rock & Mineral Museum (+30 6977 260 048). ONE OF THE ISLAND’S most important cultural venues is Santorini Arts Factory (+30 22860 85141), on the beach of Vlychada; this year it presents Orange Water 3, a festival of contemporary art that is on display until 5 October 2017. On the road from Fira to Pyrgos you will find AK Art Foundation (+30 2286 021506), an artist-owned gallery which hosts contemporary art exhibitions. In Fira, take a peek inside Mati Gallery (+30 22860 23814), and discover the sea-inspired work of visual artist Yorgos Kypris. For a more alternative kind of experience, head to La Ponta Venetian Castle (laponta. gr) in Akrotiri, where you will find an exhibition of traditional bagpipes, and can also take part in workshops and listen to local music concerts. For classical music, save the dates for the 39th Santorini Music Festival LiFO Greek Islands
(3-19 September), which takes place in Fira. You should also not miss the traditional Greek festivals known as panygiria, taking place during important religious holidays. The most important is that of the Dormition of Mary (15 August) which is celebrated with much enthusiasm, food and wine at the church of Panagia Episkopi, at the Profitis Ilias monastery and on Thirasia.
are also available. The best way to explore the beaches of Santorini is by boat, either by joining a boat tour or by chartering a yacht with your friends for a private tour. Hikers will also enjoy exploring the trails connecting the different villages, and the steep paths descending down the cliffs to the various beaches.
Moving Around
→ One of the most picturesque spots on Santorini is the tiny fishing village of Ammoudi, which is tucked inside a stunning cliff of red rock. The village has great fish restaurants and amazing sunset views, which is why tourists gather on its 200 steps every evening taking photos.
The public bus (KTEL) on Santorini is the best way to travel from one village to the other and to the airport; the main bus station is in Fira. Private taxis are also available and will take you to any part of the island, while car and scooter rentals
76–Santorini
More to Know
→ Armeni is the old port of Oia, and is a great spot for photos, vintage Greek nostalgia and even a swim. You can reach it either by descending the winding path that the donkeys used to climb carrying visitors, or by boat. → For an unforgettable, sprawling view of the caldera and the Aegean horizon, head to the lighthouse near Akrotiri. It might be a bit of a drive, but the views are worth it, especially at dusk when the sky and the cliffs are changing colours.
Getting there
It’s very easy to arrive on Santorini either by land or air. Ferries depart
from Piraeus and Rafina to Santorini daily, as well as from most Cycladic ports. Santorini airport (JTR) has direct flights to Athens, Thessaloniki and over 20 European airports, most of them available only during the summer season. Private yachts can berth at the marina at Vlychada (provides electricity, water, wifi), and there are helipads both on the main island and the small islet of Thirasia. The capital of Santorini is Fira, and important villages are Oia, Imerovigli, Emporeios, Kamari and Akrotiri. The name of the main port is Athinio, and is approximately 20 minutes from Fira and 40 minutes from Oia.
LiFO Greek Islands
«Rent a car from SantoRent and enjoy your trip to Santorini!»
SantoRent. Episkopi, Santorini. T: +30 22860 30906 M: +30 6937 234920 78–Santorini E: info@santorent.gr, www.santorent.gr, www.facebook.com/SantoRent LiFO Greek Islands
LiFO Choice Santorini Seaside by notos Seaside by notos Perivolos-Agios georgios beach, Santorini, Tel. : 0030 2286082801 www.seaside-restaurant.gr www.facebook.com/seaside. restaurant.santorini Located in the cosmopolitan beach of Perivolos, Seaside by notos consists the perfect summer setting. Comfortable sea – beds, funky jazz music, delicious seafood and excellent friendly service, make for a perfect day by the sea. The chef’s creative cuisine will take you on a journey to the four corners of the earth, through Mediterranean flavors with a twist. Leave your gaze dive into the deep blue while experiencing a musical journey around the world. Amaze your taste with the perfect match of fresh lobster with linguini, the unique combination of the Mediterranean octopus served with fresh herbs, or the vegetables gently grilled for our vegetarian friends. 01
Yalos Exo Gialos, Thira, Tel: 2286 025816 www. aegialos-beach.com/ el/santorini-beach-bar Located in the nearest beach to Fira, at Exo Gialos, a small, typical beach of Santorini with black sand and volcanic rocks, this all day bar – restaurant is the place to be. Yalos beach bar is the ideal place to enjoy your whole day by the sea. Relaxing sun beds, refreshing fruit juices, coffees, signature cocktails, delicious snacks and Mediterranean dishes made with the freshest local raw materials will accompany you while you enjoy some moments of rest on one of the most beautiful Greek islands. And if you are planning your wedding on the island this place for an unforgettable party! 02
Yalos
80–Santorini
LiFO Greek Islands
Kamari, Santorini Tel.: 2286033007 SabbiaNeraTrattoria http://sabbianera.gr/
Tango Bar
Yazz
LiFO Choice Santorini
Bagiatiko Yazz Perissa beach, +30 6940570457 Α beach bar restaurant where you can try a wide variety of fresh fruit juices and smoothies made of tropical fruit. If you get hungry try out their traditional Greek dishes. In the evening, it transforms into the absolute beach bar. Sun beds on the beach, tropical cocktails and music nights with live bands or DJs complete the majestic surroundings. 03
Tango Bar Marinatou str., Fira, email: info@tangosantorini. gr mobile: +30 697 449 04
82–Santorini
8206, & 694 5417 875 Tango Bar is not just a bar, but the absolute destination for all those who truly want to have a great time during their stay in Santorini island. Start early and enjoy the sunset from the beautiful balcony listening to lounge music. As the night comes, a whole new world unfolds in front of your eyes when you walk through the door and down the steps leading to Tango’s beautiful veranda. Great music and refreshing cocktails that taste like summer set the tune. This year’s cocktail list is better than ever: Rich, simple and fruity, classic but with a special twist or even your own idea
one thing is certain; the talented bartenders of Tango’s bar will aim to please you. Extra tip: Don’t forget to try this season’s apple caramel martini (vodka, fresh green apple, caramel syrup) or honey mango margarita (tequila, mango juice, fresh lime juice, Greek honey). Bagiatiko King Thiras Str, Tel: +30 2286 022092 www.facebook.com/ Μπαγιάτικο-FoodBarBayiatiko-Food-Bar www.bagiatiko.gr Bagiatiko Food bar is a new meeting point in the cosmopolitan Fira, in Santorini, for 05
all those who want something tasty to eat, but don’t like waiting. Greek delicacies such as the famous souvlaki and gyros prepared with local meat are on the menu here as well as delicious burgers with the ingredients of your preference, refreshing salads and many more.
LiFO Greek Islands
Sirocco
Nostos Hotel Kamari
LiFO Choice Santorini
Santo Rent Sirocco Perissa beach, +30 22860 83020 06
One of the oldest restaurants in Santorini, famous for its delicious pizza and its Greek and Italian menu. Sirocco also offers the option of a set menu. Nostos Hotel Kamari Kamari, Santorini, Tel +30 2286 032788, www. hotelscombined.com/Hotel/ Nostos_Hotel_Kamari.htm 06
Kamari is one of the most beautiful beaches in Santorini and an ideal place for your stay on the island. Just a few meters from the coast there is the traditional Nostos Hotel, with 20 rooms for
84–Santorini
Sabbia Nera
every need. Fully equipped with wireless internet access, private bathroom, cable/ satellite TV channels and a refrigerator will make your stay pleasant and comfortable. In our premises you can also enjoy your meal at the in-house restaurant or a drink in our cozy lounge bar. Extra tip: It’s only a 10-minute drive from Santorini Thira National Airport and also near to Ancient Thera and the Archaeological Museum of Thera. SANTO RENT Episkopi, Santorini T: +30 22860 30906 M: +30 6937 234920 07
E: info@santorent.gr www.santorent.gr
Rent a car from Santo Rent and enjoy your trip to Santorini! Visit our web page www. santorent.gr to rent your car and take 10% Off by using Santorent 2017 at checkout. Sabbia Nera Kamari beach, Santorini, Tel +30 22860 33007, www.facebook. com/SabbiaNeraTrattoria 08
Once you visit Kamari, one of the most cosmopolitan beaches of Santorini, you will immediately notice Sabbia Nera, a restaurant with elegant decoration and high aesthetics which is known as one of the best
trattorias of the island. The variety of tastes will surprise you pleasantly. Inspired mostly by the Italian cuisine Sabbia Nera’s menu presents a big variety of pasta, risotti and delicious pizzas, all made with ingredients from Italy. You will also have the chance to try dishes of the Mediterranean gastronomy and of course the characteristic delicacies of Santorini. Accompany your meal with a bottle of wine from their very interesting wine list or just relax in one of their sea-beds with a refreshing cocktail or a cold coffee.
LiFO Greek Islands
Nostos Hotel Kamari Kamari, Santorini, Tel +30 2286 032788 nostos-hotel-santorini.com
03.
Paros
→ Every Greek island seems to be famous around the world for something special, and for Paros that would be beaches and seas perfect for surfing, windsurfing and other related sports. Surf boys and girls on golden beaches might sound too California for a Greek island context, but this is a reality on Paros, as the island’s east coast is lined with long sandy beaches that are very popular with surfers and kite surfers. Take a break from partying at Pounta and Naousa to explore the fascinating mainland and discover traditional arts and crafts, a millenniaold marble industry and whitewashed villages and monasteries that have made time and the elements their friend. 86–Paros
LiFO Greek Islands
Naousa
Summer 2017
Paros–87
PAROS Starbucks chilled classic coffee beverages Days in Paros start early on. With the coffee beverage Starbucks Chilled Cappuccino, you are ready for everything! It is waiting you at grocery & convenient stores and kiosks all over the island.
88–Paros
Beaches There are many beaches on Paros, with the most organised being close to the towns and villages. You can swim near Parikia at Krios and Martselo, which are also accessible via boat from the Parikia port. Close by you will also find Agios Fokas, Livadia and Parasporos. The beach at Voutakos is great for families, and also accessible by boat with a dock. At
the beach of Agia Irini you will come across an almost tropical sight of palm trees growing on the beach, and there’s also a nearby restaurant. Further south you will find the three beaches at Aliki—Agios Nikolaos, Aliki and Piso Aliki— which are rather busy but well-organised and have nice restaurants. The nearby beach of Faragas is very beautiful but also tends to be crowded. On the east coast you LiFO Greek Islands
www.cuorerosso.gr
will find many beaches that are great for surfing and sailing, and which are very popular with younger people. The popular Chrysi Akti (Golden Coast) is on the southeast point of Paros, and is famous the world over as a great place for surfing and water sports. The nearby Nea Chrysi Akti used to host an international surfing championship in the 1990’s, and it has surfing schools if you want to take lessons. Pounta, which is not the same as the port of Pounta on the west coast, is a cosmopolitan and very lively beach that is all about surfing and partying at the famous club there. On this side of Paros you will find many more sandy beaches, such as Drios, Logaras and Molos, as well as more secluded and tranquil spots like Lolantonis,
90–Paros
Kalogeros and Bountari. On the north coast, the centre of the action is of course the bay of Naousa, which contains some of the most amazing beaches in the Cyclades. Right next to the port you will find Piperi, which is small but sandy and ideal for a quick swim without leaving town. The stunning Kolympithres beach is a magnificent spot with rock formations and crystal clear waters west of Naousa. For even wilder beauty and less people head north into the Paros Park, to the beaches of Monastiri, Tourkou and Korakas (close to the lighthouse). At the beach of Xifaras you can swim in the well-protected bay and eat fresh fish at the local restaurants; walk along the coast to the north and explore the amazing landscape of the bay, and even take a
plunge into the azure waters of Lageri beach. To the east of Naousa you will find the village of Santa Maria, where you can find more fish restaurants and a surf beach; for a quieter option, head to the two little coves on the north side of the bay, and relax under the tamarisk trees.
Sights & Experiences Paros was an important commercial and cultural centre in antiquity, mainly because of the strategic location of its ports and the exceptional quality of its marble. Parian marble has been much sought-after for its whiteness, and many famous artworks are made of marble from Paros, such as the Venus di Milo, the Nike of Samothrace and important monuments in Athens. There
are several archaeological sites of interest on Paros, including the Mycenaean acropolis at Koukounaries, the temple of Apollo, the temple of Asclepios and the Necropolis near Parikia. One of the earliest Byzantine landmarks on Paros is the monastery of Panagia Ekatontapiliani in Parikia, which was built at least 1400 years ago and incorporates stones from nearby ancient temples. In medieval times the island came under the Venetians, who built many fortifications and castles such as the fort in Parikia, which is also the site of a prehistoric settlement and a temple to Athena. Paros has many monasteries worth visiting, such as Agios Minas near Kostos, Agios Ioannis Kaparos near Lefkes (with an impressive marble altarpiece), The LiFO Athens Guide
Kolympithres
and Agion Theodoron near Agkeria. The most famous place on Paros is definitely the town of Naousa with its picturesque cove and traditional architecture. When it’s not full of tourists partying in the summer, Naousa is a traditional fishing village, boasting the largest fleet of fishing boats in the Cyclades. On the port there is a Venetian fort that was built to protect the town from pirates, and the town’s whitewashed alleys are so typically Greek you will feel you’re transported back in time. Nearby you can visit the Paros Environmental and Cultural Park, which is a public natural part with hiking trails, beaches, a small museum and even an open-air theatre.
92–Paros
Nature lovers will also appreciate the beauty of Paros’ many caves, which you can come across as you explore the island. The quarries near the village of Lefkes is where the marble used to be extracted in ancient times, and you can enter the caves carved into the mountain. The cave of Archilochos is near the port in Parikia, and legend has it that the ancient poet Archilochos would go there to write. The impressive cave at Panteronisi and the Amfitriti Cave are underwater, and offer an exciting challenge to experienced scuba-divers.
Culture & Events The Archaeological Museum of Paros (+30 22840 21231) in Parikia
is one of the most important in Greece, with findings from significant prehistoric settlements in the Cyclades, as well as from Ancient Greek and Roman times. Also in Parikia is the Paros Byzantine Museum (+30 22840 21243), housed inside the ancient monastery of Panagia Ekatontapiliani. The Marpissa Folklore Museum (+30 22840 41217) is organised by the Marpissa Women’s Association and is a reconstruction of an old Paros home, complete with vintage objects and handmade furniture. At the Historic and Folklore Museum in Naousa (+30 22840 53453) you will find the private collection of a local doctor and many heirlooms from a nostalgic Greek past. The
Paros Sculpture Museum (+30 22840 41217) is in the village of Marpissa and also offers sculpture lessons. There are many festivals on Paros during the summer that include music, theatre and visual arts, both in the towns and the smaller villages. The Paros Environmental and Cultural Park in Naousa has an open-air cinema where you can watch films under the stars, and also hosts the Festival at the Park every summer (parospark.com). The Routes in Marpissa festival (stimarpissa.gr) will take place from 2527 August and introduces visitors to the authentic side of life in the village of Marpissa with walks, workshops and exhibitions. The Karavola Festival takes place at
The LiFO Athens Guide
the village of Lefkes on 19 August, and involves a lot of traditional food, drink and music by local musicians. As in every Greek island, the holiday of the Dormition of Mary (15 August) is celebrated with a big festival known as panygiri; the most spectacular on Paros is at the Panagia Ekatontapiliani in Parikia.
Moving Around It’s easy to reach most beaches and villages of Paros by public bus (KTEL). You can find the schedule at the main station next to the port at Parikia and online (ktelparou.gr). Taxis can take you anywhere on the island, and you can arrange for a taxi to pick you up at the airport. Car
94–Paros
rentals and scooters are available at the largest towns and villages, as well as bicycles.
More to Know → Antiparos is so close to Paros you can arrange a daytrip there. Take the bus to Pounta and hop on the ferry that will bring you to Antiparos town in under 20 minutes. Read our Antiparos guide for more. → From Naousa you can hop on a boat tour to Mykonos and Naxos, while from Piso Livadi there are boat tours to Koufonissia and the Little Cyclades. → Paros is a very popular kite-surfing destination. The Paros-Antiparos strait offers ideal conditions for kite-surfing
and attracts fans of the sport from all around the world. Check out one of the many schools on Paros for lessons or for renting equipment. → Paros also has a fascinating hilly mainland, which offers a unique hiking and trekking experience. Check out the trail that follows the ancient Byzantine road from Lefkes to Prodromos. → While on Paros, don’t forget to taste local recipes and delicacies at the many taverns on the island, including some delicious local cheeses. If they offer you souma, know that it’s a strong white spirit like tsipouro, made of grapes.
Getting there
There are direct ferries to Paros from Piraeus and Rafina (approx. 3-4 hours), as well as from most Cycladic islands. Paros also has an airport (PAS) that connects to Athens, and the nearby airports of Santorini and Mykonos connect to many European cities. Private yachts can berth at one of the island’s marinas, which are situated in Parikia, Naousa and Piso Livadi. The main towns of Paros are Parikia and Naousa, and important villages are Aliki, Marmara and Lefkes.
The LiFO Athens Guide
Punda Coast
LifO e choiocs Par
Punda Coast Marpissa, Paros, www.facebook.com/pundacoast Punda Coast is not just another beach bar of the beautiful island of Paros, but a piece of heaven on earth. You will realize it the minute you step your foot on the sandy beautiful beach of Punda. Choose your sea bed, get comfortable, and enjoy yourself by listening to great music while sipping your favorite cocktail, or just hang out by the big beautiful swimming pool. And if you get hungry treat yourself to one of the many delicious Mediterranean dishes at the restaurant. An all-day great experience 01
96–Paros
UMI SUSHI BAR
Aeraki Villas
in one of the most beautiful beaches of Paros Island. UMI SUSHI BAR Naoussa, Paros, Tel: +302284055242 www.facebook.com/ theumisushibar Umi Sushi Bar, the first sushi bar in Paros Island, opened its doors last year, introducing the delicacies of Japanese cuisine to all the sushi lovers in this cosmopolitan island of Cyclades, already creating a buzz on Trip Advisor. Located in Naoussa, maybe the most vivid and elegant place in Paros, Umi Sushi Bar is a great option for an ideal night out. The minimal decoration, which is in perfect harmony with 02
the aesthetics of the island, makes Umi one of the kinds. And once you taste that first bite of the freshest of sushi, you’ll understand why people keep coming back to this elegant restaurant. Aeraki Villas Santa Maria, Paros, Tel +30 6944758635, +30 6972030243, www. aerakivillas.gr, info@ aerakivillas.gr, mail : info@ aerakivillas.gr 03
If you have chosen to spend your holidays in Paros, then Aeraki Villas in Santa Maria is definitely one of the best choices for your staying. Santa Maria is one of the most picturesque places in Cyclades with a beach that
you would simply fall in love with. Aeraki Villas, in just a few minutes’ walk from the coast, is a traditional luxury complex of villas, with majestic view to the sea and the island of Naxos. Whether you travel with your family, friends or your beloved one, Aeraki Villas is the ideal choice for you. Depended on your needs, you can choose among four villas of 110 m², three of 90 m², two of 50 and one of 30 m². Fully equipped and tastefully decorated your accommodation in our villas will simply make your staying memorable.
The LiFO Athens Guide
It’s all leather to me
All leather products are made in Greece
Naoussa, Paros +302284024466
Ragoussis
LifO e choariocs P
Ragoussis Naoussa sqr (bridge) +30 2284 051508 ,Mando Mavrogenous sqr Parikia +30 22840 21573, 6th km ParikiaNaousa +30 2284028326 Antonis Ragousis is the fourth generation cook of his family, following in the footsteps of his forefathers. His beautiful, newly built store in Naoussa is serving pastries, sandwiches with fresh local products, handmade ice cream, coffee and a wide variety of bread. In his open kitchen Antonis cooks with love. “Nothing is ready made. Our ice cream is prepared with fresh local milk, our mizithropitakia with local cheese bought from local producers, and the traditional zacharompaklavas on the shelves is my great grandmother‘s recipe but with a twist! It’s a sweet made with honey and almonds. I use local honey enriched with dried fruit.” Ragoussis is open 24/7 and there is something for everyone on his menu. If you visit 04
98–Paros
Ragoussis after hours you have to try his “vromiko” sandwich with bacon and fried potatoes.
Cuore Rosso
Cuore Rosso Parikia, +30 22840 22920,+30 6983078276, facebook: cuorerossoparos An authentic Italian pizzeria with a wood oven offering more than 40 handmade pizzas using special flours that make for a truly unique dough. Cuore Rosso offers a wide range of salami and cheese which is part of the regional tradition of Emilia Romagna and Tuscany, accompanied by the classic fried Gnocco. The menu includes salads, mozzarella from Campania, grilled cheese and homemade desserts, including an unforgettable tiramisù. The cellar offers a wide selection of Italian and Greek wines as well as craft beers strictly unfiltered and unpasteurized. Cuore Rosso has two dining rooms decorated in a traditional Greek style and a cosy garden. 05
The LiFO Athens Guide
Santa Maria, Paros, Tel +30 6944758635, +30 6972030243 www.aerakivillas.gr // info@aerakivillas.gr
04.
Antiparos
100–Antiparos
LiFO Greek Islands
→ Passing the strait that separates Paros from Antiparos is like crossing a threshold: the pace becomes slower, the nature wilder, the people more carefree. This little gem of an island is hardly any greener or more beautiful than any of its Cycladic sisters, but it will enchant you with its bohemian and laid-back mood. Equally as cosmopolitan and busy as Mykonos but much more alternative, Antiparos
Beaches There are several beaches within walking distance from Antiparos town: to the south you will find Psaraliki 1, Psaraliki 2 and Panagia, while northeast of the port there’s a very shallow beach ideal for children. West of town lies Sifneiko beach, which takes its name from the view of Sifnos in the distance; this is the best place on the island to watch the sunset. North of town and next to the camping site you will find the Camping Beach, which is very sandy and with shallow, turquoise waters. Clothing is optional on parts of the beach, and the water is so shallow at points that you can wade to the nearby island of Feira. The beach that is most protected from the winds is Apantima, which is organised with a beach bar, all-day club and water sports. The beach of Glyfa is ideal for windsurfing, and Soros is the largest and most popular beach on Antiparos. For fine pebble and less of a crowd head to Mikros Soros nearby. Further south you will find Sosti and Faneromeni, where the landscape is rockier and pretty much unspoiled. On the other side of the Summer 2017
island, on the west coast, you can swim at the sandy cove of Livadia, or head to the less-known Monastiria beach. Near Agios Georgios you can find several beautiful beaches and have lunch or dinner at the local taverns. From here you can also hop on a boat to Despotiko and swim at the beaches there, or go to the most secluded beaches on Antiparos like Epitafios and visit the sea caves nearby.
Sights & Experiences The most famous sight on Antiparos is the Antiparos Cave, an 85-meter-deep grotto whose entrance is on top of a hill. Two little chapels greet visitors at the entrance, that are a popular spot for weddings. The cave contains the oldest stalagmite in Europe, and is a miracle to behold, especially because of the whiteness and transparency of its stalactites. The view from the hilltop will also reward you, as it stretches all the way across the strait to the islands of the Little Cyclades. If you head further south you will find the cove of Agios Georgios, which is a shallow bay between Antiparos and the tiny is-
has everything you’re looking for in a Greek island, but in small, precious doses: crystalline waters, mysterious ancient temples, divine food and smile-inducing nightlife. This is a place where kitesurfing campers and Hollywood stars mingle in the same taverns and after parties, as the nights beguilingly fade into mornings with sea salt still in your hair.
land of Despotiko. This is an uninhabited island that used to be an important religious site in antiquity. Take the local boat to cross and visit the ruins of the temple of Apollo there. Antiparos town, also known as Kastro, is probably where you will be heading most of your evenings, for dinner at the local fish taverns and drinks at the many bars. This traditional village becomes very crowded in the summer, and attracts a rather alternative crowd. Wander the stonepaved alleys and visit the Castle, a small fort hidden in the heart of the town and which contains tiny chapels and houses. A few meters off the coast from Antiparos town is the island of Saliagos, which is an important archaeological site. In prehistory the sea level was much lower, and what is now a strait between Paros and Antiparos used to be dry land where people lived. The site of Saliagos dates back to 4300 BCE and is considered the oldest settlement in the Cyclades. Antiparos is also scattered with no less than 50 traditional whitewashed chapels that will give you an excuse to explore the hills and coastline, such
as Profitis Ilias on the island’s highest peak, and Panagia Faneromeni, which was built by fishermen on the rocky cape of Petalida.
Culture & Events Inside the Antiparos Castle you will find a small Folklore Museum (+30 2284061005), which even has some Cycladic figurines and findings from the excavation at Despotiko. Nearby you will find Anti Gallery (antiartgallery.gr), which presents contemporary art throughout the summer. The most important summer festival on Antiparos is the religious holiday of Agia Marina (15-17 July), whose church overlooks the port. The three-day celebration is a showcase of local culture with traditional music, dance and food. Another important holiday is that of Panagia Faneromeni (7-8 August), where locals arrive at the chapel with their boats to attend mass, then celebrate with a feast, dance and music.
Moving Around The local network of public buses will bring you to all the major beaches, the Cave and Agios Georgios. You will buy tickets on
Antiparos–101
board. There are two taxis on Antiparos, and you can call them at +30 6988848484 (Mr Evaggelos Zappas) and +30 6970 624750 (Ms Marina Moraki). Car and scooter rentals are available, as well as bicycles and mountain bikes; boat cruises around the island are also a great way to discover all the natural beauties of Antiparos; you can also rent or charter a boat to explore deserted beaches and distant islands.
More to Know → Antiparos is a great spot for windsurfing and kitesurfing, and you can
rent the necessary equipment from the beaches closest to town and at Glyfa. → A great place for a boat trip is the group of small islands between Paros and Antiparos called Panteronisia. Take a plunge into the turquoise waters, and discover the tiny chapel of Agios Nikolaos there. → Head to the island’s open-air cinema in Antiparos town, to watch a film under the starry sky. → A famous “landmark” of Antiparos is La Luna, a disco north of town next to the camping site. This is where you go to dance till dawn. → Art lovers take note
that Antiparos hosts the smallest photo festival in the world: the Antiparos International Photo Festival takes place in early July every year at the Castle.
Getting there
Antiparos is only 1 nautical mile (1,8 km) west of Paros, and the two islands are separated by a narrow strait known as the Paros-Antiparos Strait. The only way to reach Antiparos is by boat or helicopter. There are regular ferries to Antiparos from Paros, one from Pounta and one from the main port
of Parikia. Private yachts can berth at the harbour of Antiparos town, or at the beaches of Soros and Agios Georgios. The main village on the island is Antiparos town, and there’s also a small settlement in the area of Agios Georgios to the south
Acaba
Lollo’s Pizzeria italiana
LiFO Choice Antiparos
Lollo’s Pizzeria italiana Port of Antiparos, +30 22840 61215, +30 6981968699 Lollo’s Pizzeria in Antiparos brings unique Italian flavors to your plate. Stefano & Sabrina, the owners, are from Rome and they‘ve brought with them the authentic Italian cuisine. Here you can sit in the delightful seafront of Antiparos and enjoy their delicious “Pinsa” that has been inspired by the ancient traditions of Rome and 01
102–Antiparos
is baked in a wood burning oven using an excellent blend of Italian organic bread wheat flour without the addition of any animal fat. A selection of Italian Cured Pork Meat and Cheese, delicious salads, homemade fresh pasta dishes and homemade desserts both made with organic eggs. Fine Italian wines can be enjoyed too. Open for lunch till late in the evening, from June to September. Available take away pizzas.
Acaba Antiparos, Tel +30 2284063110, www.facebook.com/acaba.Antiparo Located in the central road of Antiparos, Acaba is a great all-day choice. Traditionally decorated with a relaxing vibe it welcomes you to start your day with rich and delicious choices for breakfast such as eggs, pancakes, homemade pastries and more accompanied with a glass of fresh juice, a smoothie or a premium quality coffee. And if you get hungry later 02
on during the day, Acaba’s menu will reward you with fresh salads, delicious snacks and burgers together with a glass of excellent wine. Don’t miss the chance to taste one of its signature refreshing cocktails.
LiFO Greek Islands
Acaba Antiparos, Tel +30 2284063110, www.facebook.com/acaba.Antiparo Summer 2017
Antiparos–103
05.
Sifnos
→ Famous for its great food culture and millenniaold pottery tradition, Sifnos used to be one of the richest Cycladic islands and an important exporter of gold and silver in early antiquity. Today, the remnants of this glorious past can still be found on its coasts and hilltops as traces of ancient citadels and lonely monasteries scattered across the island. Definitely a foodie’s paradise and home to an award-winning gastronomy festival, Sifnos is often described as the prime example of a Greek island: the beaches are many and pristine, the nature is breathtaking, the people are hospitable, and the balmy nights come alive with music, dance and drinks in the whitewashed alleys. 104–Sifnos
LiFO Greek Islands
Summer 2017
Sifnos –105
Beaches Crystal-clear waters and amazing natural beauty welcome visitors to Sifnos’ beaches, each with its own character and landscape to explore. You will find a beach for every taste here, from wide and sandy ones for the whole family to hidden and rocky coves where you can unwind in complete privacy. As it is the case with all the Aegean islands, the etesian winds (known locally as meltemia) blow from the north during the summer months, so check the forecast and choose your beach accordingly. There is a nice sandy beach at Kamares next to the port, with clean waters and ideal for watching people come and go as the boats arrive from Piraeus. Vathy is a popular bay further south with a hotel and three different beaches, the southmost of which welcomes nudists. Nearby is the beach of Tsopos, which has one of the oldest pottery workshops on the island. The best-organised beach on Sifnos is Platys Gialos, complete with sunbeds, umbrellas, showers and changing rooms. Its many cafés are a popular option for breakfast, and you can also do watersports here. Next to Platys Gialos is
a picturesque rocky cove called Lazarou, with a couple of restaurants, sunbeds and crystal-clear waters. The southmost settlement of Sifnos is Faros, and has three beaches: Fasolou, Faros and Glifo, all with shady spots under the tamarisk trees. Fasolou has a very famous fish restaurant, and also provides changing rooms. A path leads from Glifo to the beach of Apokofto, where you can find more tamarisks for shade, changing rooms and toilets, restaurants and a mini market. The nearby rock of Chrysopigi monastery is perhaps Sifnos’ most famous landmark, and is perfect for jumping into the sea. On the other side of Chrysopigi rock is a pebbly and more quiet beach called Saoures. Bear in mind that there is no mobile phone network on these beaches. After Faros, the coast turns north, and the beaches are more exposed to the wind—but there are some well-sheltered spots where you can enjoy a swim surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty. At the foot of the rock on which the village of Kastro is built you will find Seralia beach, which is covered with pebbles and also has a restaurant.
SIFNOS Starbucks Bottled Frappuccino Enjoy the lively beaches of Sifnos together with a good book and your favorite Starbucks Bottled Frappuccino® Coffee, a perfect combination of coffee and real milk. You can find it at grocery & convenient stores and kiosks.
106–Sifnos
LiFO Greek Islands
Poulati is another magical spot a bit further north, tucked under the little monastery of Panagia Poulati and surrounded by reeds and large rocks. The picturesque fishing village of Herronisos also has a beach with sunbeds and toilets, and a nice fish restaurant, while the nearby Vroulidia beach is a bit rocky near the shore but becomes sandy as you go deeper. Some beaches on Sifnos are accessible only on foot, which means they are less crowded and often completely unspoiled. These are Toso Nero, Fikiada and Artimoni. There are also some beaches that are accessible only by boat, so you will have to ask a local boat taxi to bring you there. These are (north to south): Tsouvales, Katergaki, Gialoudia, Tsoha, Vlihada, Hohlaki and Hlakopo.
Sights & Experiences Sifnos is famously an island of potters, and has been exporting pottery and ceramics for around 5,000 years. You can visit one of the many pottery workshops on the island, most of which are found in Kamares and near the beaches of Tsopos, Platys Gialos and Herronisos. In these workshops and the many pottery shops on the island you can find traditional cooking pots and vases, as well as more contemporary artefacts for your collection. You can also join pottery classes at one of the workshops, to try shaping the clay with your own hands.
108–Sifnos
Another unique trait of Sifnos is its 237 churches, which is the highest concentration of churches per square kilometre in the Cyclades. You can find the more ornate and architecturally impressive ones in the villages, but also seek out the smaller churches hidden on the various hills, clifftops and beaches like . The most important religious landmark in Sifnos is Panagia Chrysopigi, a former monastery built in the 16th century on a rocky cape to the south. The monastery’s picturesque setting is very popular for weddings during the summer. As a place with a rich and long past, Sifnos is home to many archaeological sites, the most important of which is the ancient citadel of Kastro and the nearby ruins of an acropolis built in the 6th century BCE. Sifnos was a very wealthy island in antiquity, mostly because of its rich natural deposits of gold and silver. On the peninsula of Agios Sostis visitors can still find the entrance to a prehistoric silver mine, which is considered the second oldest in the world.
Culture & Events For ancient relics and the earlier history of Sifnos visit the Archaeological Museum in Kastro, and for more recent local traditions, customs and crafts visit the two Folklore Museums in Apollonia (+30 22840 33730) and Artemonas. There is also a Byzantine Museum at the monastery of Panagia tis Vrysis
(+30 22840 31937). As with every Greek island, there can’t be a summer without the many local festivals (panigiria) organised on religious holidays. For Sifnos, the most important festivals are Agia Marina (17 July), Profitis Ilias (19 July), Dormition of Mary (14 August), Agios Ioannis at Faros (29 August), and the Holy Cross (13 September). Being the homeland of famed Greek chef Nikolaos Tselementes, Sifnos also hosts the annual, award-winning Cycladic Gastronomy Festival, which will take place in Artemonas on 7,8 and 9 of September 2017. In addition to mouth-watering traditional treats, the festival also includes arts & crafts exhibitions, live music and dance.
Moving Around Sifnos is a really small island, and you will be able to move around easily. There is frequent public bus service connecting all villages, and also ten taxis that can be hailed by phone. For car and scooter rentals you must go to Kamares or Apollonia, and there are also boats from Platys Gialos that can take you to the more deserted beaches. The large network of hiking trails on the island also enables visitors to reach many beaches and villages on foot in a relatively short time.
More to Know → The heart of the island’s nightlife beats in Apollonia, where you can find bars and clubs that are open until the morning for dance and drinks.
For more of a lounge mood and drinks on the surf head to Platys Gialos, Vathy, Faros or Kamares. → Nature lovers and hikers will find a small paradise on Sifnos. Pick up a map of the island’s network of 19 hiking trails and explore the mountains, as well as the Natura 2000 wildlife reserve on the island’s west side. → You can hop on a boat trip or charter your own sailing boat from Platys Gialos, to explore the coasts of Sifnos and nearby islands of Kimolos, Poliegos and Despotiko. → For watersports you can go to Platys Gialos. There are also two scuba diving schools, in Kamares and Apokofto. → Sifnos has launched a campaign to abolish the plastic bag on the island. Support the initiative of the Sifnos Island Cooperative and avoid using plastic bags during your visit.
Getting there
Sifnos lies west of Antiparos, south of Serifos and northeast of Milos. There are daily boats to Sifnos from Piraeus, and less frequent service from nearby Cycladic islands. Private yachts can drop anchor and refuel in the port and other sheltered bays. The island’s capital and main town is Apollonia, and other important villages are Artemonas, Kastro and Faros. The main port is called Kamares. Since 1962, all major villages on Sifnos are listed monuments for their traditional architecture
LiFO Greek Islands
APOLLONIA SIFNOS TEL.: 2284031448 & 6974000417 npirenis@yahoo.gr
SPYROS+NIKOSKARALIS HAROULA GAVRILIDOY A P O L L O N I A, S I F N O S 8 4 0 0 3 TEL:2284033055 2284033704 E-MAIL: bles@otenet.gr www.ble-sifnos.gr
Summer 2017
Sifnos –109
To Mati
Verina Hotels
LiFO Choice Sifnos
Oasis Contemporary Fashion Store To Mati Apollonia, Sifnos, Tel +30 2284031448 & 6974000417 www.facebook.com/pages/ Mati-Sifnos Once you find yourself in the beautiful island of Sifnos, don’t forget to make a stop to Mati store at Apollonia village and see all these lovely, hand – crafted stuff that has to offer. A small place with a wide variety of elegant jewelry made by aluminum and brazen, stained glass objects, mosaics and many other accessories in value for money prices. Discover the brand new collection of pottery or pick a 01
110–Sifnos
souvenir from Sifnos. You will find it open from 11 a.m to 2 p.m and from 7 p.m until late at night. Oasis Contemporary Fashion Store Apollonia, Sifnos, Tel +30 2284 033963 www.facebook.com/OasisContemporary-FashionStore Located on one of the busiest alleys of Apollonia, the center of Sifnos Island, Oasis is an independent contemporary fashion store. In this boutique you will find selected suggestions on clothes, shoes and accessories, most of which are handmade, fact that make Oasis one of the 02
most famous shopping spots on the island.Oasis presents mostly creations of Greek designers such as Grecian Chick, Stelios Koudounaris, Apostolos Mitropoulos and Underground- Athens Fashionistas. Verina Hotels Platys Gialos, Sifnos, Tel: +30 6976 867641, info@verina.gr http://verinahotelsifnos.com Verina Hotels is a complex of luxury boutique hotels and villas located in Sifnos, an island of the western Cyclades, and a perfect choice for those who not only seek beautiful sandy beaches and clear waters but a true 03
gastronomic experience and love trekking. Four different hotels and types of accommodation, Verina Astra, Verina Suites, Verina Villa and Villa Delenia on three magical while cosmopolitan beaches are here to guarantee that your stay on the island will be as unique as you. Each of them is inspired by the local architectural style, combined with the highest standards in terms of luxury, design and quality of service. See more on their website http://verinahotelsifnos.com and book a room to what is like heaven on earth.
LiFO Greek Islands
Drimoni
Ble Sifnos Apollonia, Sifnos, Tel +30 2284 033055 www.ble-sifnos.gr/ default-8.aspx, www.facebook.com/blesifnos Located in Apollonia, the heart of Sifnos Island, Ble is one of the top destinations for those seeking unique jewelry and memorabilia. Influenced by the ancient Cycladic civilization, the contemporary way of living in the island and all of its beauties, Spiros Karalis and Haroula Gavriilidou, the owners of this lovely little store, design and create hand- crafted jewelry from silver, gold, titanium, copper and bronze while they often use precious or semi -precious stones, along with pebbles or shells from the beaches of Sifnos. Apart from their collection made mostly with the techniques of engraving and embossing, you will also find some other handpicked handicraft items. 04
Drimoni Apollonia, Sifnos, Tel +30 2284 031434 www.drimoni.gr https://el-gr.facebook.com/ drimonirestaurant In the heart of Sifnos, very close to the crowded alleys of Apollonia, you will find Drimoni. The restaurant presents high quality Mediterranean cuisine, in an idyllic place. The traditionally decorated interior is open all through the year, while in the summer you will enjoy your dinner by the pool, with an extraordinary view to Paros and Antiparos, two islands you can see from Sifnos. The talented and experienced chef of Drimoni creates delicious dishes based on Mediterranean flavors while his brother makes the adequate desserts for every single dish of the menu. 05
Apollonia, Sifnos, Tel +30 2284 031434 www.drimoni.gr el-gr.facebook.com/drimonirestaurant
Summer 2017
Sifnos –111
06.
Syros
112–Syros
→ It might not be the largest, but Syros is definitely the most worldly and “European” of all the Cycladic isles. It’s central location and industrial past brought much wealth and prosperity, which is evident in its impressive neoclassical monuments and mansions of old sea captains and merchants.
LiFO Greek Islands
Arriving at Syros port is like entering a fantastical scene from a Venetian traveller’s memoir, where the colourful city of Ermoupoli cascades from the hills to greet you with its bustling port sounds and smells wafting out of local bakeries. With its very own 19thcentury opera house and international
Summer 2017
festivals, Syros is definitely the cultural centre of the Cyclades, and part of the annual agenda of locals and foreigners alike. Natural beauties and idyllic beaches also abound—because what would a Greek island be without azure waters and dozing off at noon under the tamarisks?
Syros –113
Beaches Syros is famous for its culture and architecture, but it’s still a Cycladic island, which means it has many and superb beaches for all tastes and times of the day. The southern and western beaches are well-protected from the northern wind, and most beaches are accessible by bus. If you want to have a swim without leaving Ermoupolis, head to the pebbly beach of Agios Nikolaos (also known as Asteria); the sandy beach of Azolimnos is also very close to Ermoupolis, and has umbrellas as well as bars and restaurants. Further down on the south coast you will find
Vari, with a familyfriendly sandy beach and nice restaurants. Other nearby options are Ahladi on the other side of the bay, and the much less crowded Fabrica to the east. If you have a car, drive a bit further to the east to find the completely isolated beach of Katergaki, ideal for snorkelling and scubadiving. Another great option on the south coast is the picturesque cove of Megas Gialos, with a sandy beach under the shade of umbrellas and tamarisk trees. To the west you will find Ambela, which is a much quieter option. For stunning, fiery
SYROS Starbucks Bottled Frappuccino Enjoy the delicious combination of rich Arabica coffee and luscious golden caramel with Starbucks Bottled Frappuccino® Caramel whenever you want during your holidays at Syros. Available at grocery & convenient stores and kiosks.
sunsets head to the west coast, where the most popular beach is Agathopes, an organised beach with beautiful views of the nearby island rocks. Foinikas is another very popular beach nearby, with great fish restaurants, watersports and a marina. More secluded beaches nearby are Komito to the south and Kokkina to the west. Galyssas is another west-facing beach, one of the most popular and organised on Syros, where you can also do watersports and gaze at the sunset from the chapel of Agia Pakou. Behind the chapel there’s a tiny little cove that welcomes nudists. Further north the beach of Kini offers crystal-clear waters and perhaps the best sunset view on the island, and Delfini has a relaxed beach bar with music. The most pristine and isolated beaches on Syros are on the northwest coast within the natural reserve of Ano Meria. You can only access these beaches by boat taxi, or on foot.
Sights & Experiences Just as most of the
114–Syros
Cycladic isles, Syros has been a Venetian colony for centuries. This is why the island has many Catholic churches that predate the Orthodox ones, the most prominent of which being the Cathedral of Saint George from 1200 CE. From the orthodox churches, of importance are the church of the Transfiguration, built in 1824 by refugees from Chios and Psara, and the Assumption of the Virgin, built in 1828 and which carries an original icon by Greek Renaissance painter El Greco. An important landmark in Ermoupoli is Miaouli Square, named after a famous 19th-century admiral, which is lined with cafés and cultural institutions. The square is dominated by the neoclassical façade of the Ermoupoli Town Hall, designed by famed architect Ernst Ziller and completed in 1891. On the hill above Ermoupoli is the old town quarter known as Ano Syros; this is where the original Venetian settlement was founded in 1200 and where you can still wander in medieval alleys
LiFO Greek Islands
Desperate Artists –The “Design Lab” Evangelistrias 9, Hermoupolis, Syros www.facebook.com/desperate.artists
that retain much of their ancient character. For activities in the countryside, visit the archaeological sites of Kastri and Halandriani, which date back to the time of Cycladic Civilisation (5,000 years ago). The villages of Episkopio, Chroussa and Pagos are beautifully traditional and worth an excursion, combined with a nice dinner at a local taverna. Nature lovers will enjoy the rural area of Ano Meria, with its quaint little farmsteads and authentic landscape. If you enjoy hiking, head to the Natura 2000 natural reserve in the northwest end of Syros and discover a network of hiking trails that will let you explore the unknown side of the island.
Culture & Events G. Souri Street Tel: 6977882201 www.magicbusvintage.com info@magicbusvintage.com Facebook / Instagram / Pinterest: themagicbusvintage
116–Syros
Syros is home to several museums that carry treasures found all over the region. At the Archaeological Museum of Syros (+30 22810 88487) you’ll find treasures from important Cycladic archaeological sites, mainly from between 5,000 and 2,000 years ago. The island’s history as a centre for agriculture and manufacturing is documented at the Industrial Museum (+30 22810 84762), through a collection of machinery and relics from the time when Syros was exporting leather, fabrics and all sorts of goods. The Ecclesiastical Museum (+30 22810 82582) holds
important relics and religious artefacts from Syros and other Cycladic islands, and offers a panorama of religious art and craftsmanship. Many events take place in Ermoupoli throughout the summer, that give the town an air of cosmopolitanism and cultural prestige. The Art Gallery of the Cyclades (+30 22810 80918) presents exhibitions with Greek artists throughout the summer, and the annual Festival of the Aegean (festivaloftheaegean. com) will take place from 16-30 July 2017, with a programme of classical and church music. Syros - Culture 2017 is a large cultural festival featuring theatre, cinema, music, dance and visual art in various venues across the island (June-September). Another highlight of the summer season is the annual Syros International Film Festival (syrosfilmfestival.org), which takes place in July. Apart from these international cultural events, Syros also celebrates its tradition through local festivals organised on important religious holidays—the famous Greek panygiria. These festivals are a great opportunity to visit small villages and their churches, and join the locals for traditional food and music. The most important religious festival on Syros is that of the Dormition of Virgin Mary (15 August), which is celebrated in several villages. On the eve of this holiday in the village
LiFO Greek Islands
of Kini the traditional custom of Fotarides takes place, whereby the villagers illuminate their houses and beach with candles creating a magical atmosphere.
Moving Around Syros is a large island with several villages and beaches, most of which are serviced by public buses. The main bus station in Ermoupolis is right by the port, a few meters from the ferryboat dock. Taxis are also available to help you move around the town and beyond, while you can also rent a car or scooter and explore the island at your own pace. The northwest part of Syros is not reachable by car, so if you want to visit the most distant and unspoilt beaches you will have to hop on a boat taxi from Kini beach, or hire a guide to take you there on foot.
More to Know → The coasts of Syros are a natural habitat for the Mediterranean seal, which is an endangered species. Many seals come here to give birth in September-October, but are extremely shy. Avoid visiting remote caves and beaches during that time, as to not disturb them. → For an afternoon with the whole family visit the aquarium in the village of Kini, where you will learn about local marine animals and plants. → There are several scuba-diving and sailing schools on Syros, which Summer 2017
will help you discover the beauty hidden both beneath and above the waves. → Your visit to the island must include local delicacies, such as the traditional Syros delights, halvadopites (nougat pies) and pastelaries (sundried figs with sesame). More exotic Syros recipes include aetopita (a pie made with fish and vegetables) and a version of dolmades (meat patties wrapped in cabbage) with raisins. → Discover Syros off the beaten track with a horseback tour into the countryside. You will find the local equestrian club in the village of Livadia.
Getting there
Being the capital of the Cyclades, Syros is easily accessible both by sea and air. There are direct flights to Syros (JSY) from Athens, Thessaloniki and other parts of Greece, as well as some European airports. There is daily boat service from Piraeus and Rafina (1,5 hours by high-speed boat), and connections to all main Cycladic ports. Private yachts can berth at Syros port and the marina at Foinikas bay (water, electricity and diesel available). The main town and port of Syros is Ermoupoli, and other important villages are Azolimnos, Chroussa, Episkopio, Foinikas, Galissas, Kini, Megas Gialos, Posidonia and Vari
Vikela 3 & Gravias, Ermoupoli Tel: 22813 01887
Syros –117
Desperate Artists –The “Design Lab”
The Magic Bus Vintage
LiFO Choice Syros
Corner Café
Lila’s Guesthouse The Magic Bus Vintage G. Souri str, Hermoupolis, Syros, Tel: 6977882201 www.magicbusvintage.com info@magicbusvintage.com Facebook / Instagram / Pinterest: themagicbusvintage 01
If you visit Syros, you must make a stop at the Magic Bus Vintage store. Located just a few steps from the central square of Hermoupolis, this boutique is a small treasure for those who love vintage clothing. It offers a wide selection of rare and unique vintage pieces at reasonable prices, for both women and men that have been lovingly gathered from all over the world by the very attentive owner. Whether it is accessories you’re looking for, or unique pieces of clothes, The Magic Bus is the place to find something for yourself or for your beloved ones. Feel free
118–Syros
to take a look at www. magicbusvintage.com Desperate Artists – The “Design Lab” Evangelistrias 9, Hermoupolis, Syros zioannou9@gmail.com www.facebook.com/desperate.artists www.etsy.com/shop/Desperatejewelry www.instagram.com/desperate_jewelry https://blingsense.com www.instagram.com/ erin_tats www.behance.net/EiriniTatsiopoulou 02
Desperate artists – The “Design Lab” is a Greek handcrafted jewelry & accessories brand located in the heart of Hermoupolis. The owners, two talented young girls that are both friends and co-workers influenced by great ancient civilizations, such as the Greek and the Egyptian create the perfect gifts for you and your beloved ones.
Zefi creates minimal elegant jewelry while Eirini makes bags & accessories inspired from the Greek landscape and tradition with a modern twist. Lila’s Guesthouse ioannou Kosma & Filikis Eterias, Ermoupoli, Syros, +30 22810 82738 03
An old stone mansion, which was restored in 2003, operates as a guest house with three rooms and three suites, equipped with everything you might need. The rooms also have an attic to accommodate a third person, while the suites are 50 sq. meters big. With two bedrooms for 4-6 people, a coffee maker, a fridge, a safe, air con and hair drier. The color, the decoration and the furniture are aesthetically pleasing. It is ideally located close to the port should
you need to take a trip to the nearby islands. It is also close to historical sites, the casino and nightclubs. CORNER CAFÉ 3 Vikela str. & Gravias, Ermoupoli, Tel: 22813 01887 04
In the heart of the neoclassical capital of the Cyclades, the Corner Cafe serves artisanal coffees, drinks, and light meals with an international flair. Find nutritious fresh-squeezed juices and smoothies packed with seasonal fruits and vegetables; hand-made breads, fresh falafel, and unique sweets in a fresh and cool atmosphere steps from the central square. Try the rich dark chocolate fudge brownie with New York cheesecake icing for dessert and pick up some organic treats to take home
LiFO Greek Islands
LILA’S GUESTHOUSE I.KOSMA & FIL.ETERIAS str. Fon +30 22810 82738 +30 6944714166 Fax +30 22810 82760 email info@guesthouse.gr
07.
Tinos → Known mainly as an important Christian pilgrimage site, the island of Tinos is a new addition to the trendy island-hopping crowds— hence its well-preserved authentic character and many unspoiled beauties waiting to be discovered. One of the few Greek islands with a mixed Catholic and Orthodox population, Tinos is so full of art and craft that even the dovecotes are
120–Τinos
architecturally impressive. Preferably you will be staying in a village up in the mountains, to explore high slopes rising directly from the sea, gnarled mountaintops crowned with chapels, sprawling Aegean horizons to all directions, and a millenniaold tradition of marble-cutting and sculpture that gave Greece some of its most famous sculptors.
LiFO Greek Islands
NISSOS BEER The internationally awarded ambassador of Cyclades, in a bottle!
“NISSOS” in Greek means “island”. NISSOS was born in the Cyclades and is a child of the Aegean. It is happiest in the company of friends enjoying the sun’s warm caress on long summer afternoons. But it is equally at home in cool shade, against a backdrop of dazzling white-washed houses under clear blue skies. NISSOS is inspired by human resourcefulness, nature’s bounty, exhilarating light, the gentle lapping of waves on a secluded beach, the fragrant sea breeze, the halcyon days of January and the magic of spring. And when it speaks, it speaks of companionship, tradition, generosity and hospitality…”
“Cyclades Microbrewery on Tinos Island” was started from zero in 2012, in the midst of Greece’s financial crisis by Alexandros Kouris and Maya Tsoclis. Instead of acting as a deterrent, the crisis actually spurred the team into action as they decided to set up a craft brewery on their island home. Primarily in order to make good beer, but also to inspire and give people hope at a time of severe economic hardship, creating a value chain that benefits everyone, from suppliers and distributors to bar owners, restaurateurs and the society at large. NISSOS beers have since become products of Greek
122–Τinos
pride, winning international recognitions -as the Silver award at the European Beer Star blind tasting beer competition, one of the world’s most prestigious. “The truth is we see NISSOS as much more than a great, awarded beer,” says owner Alexandros Kouris. “It is an expression of who we are, of our life values and a proud ambassador of the Cycladic island spirit. It enhances the authenticity and differentiation for the regional gastronomic offering of the Greek Islands. For the many visitors of the Cyclades, NISSOS is one more exciting story to take back home and tell their friends about it.”
Artisanal, unpasteurized NISSOS beers are brewed and bottled in small quantities. They are made from finest quality malts, aromatic hops and carefully selected yeast in a slow, traditional, all-natural brewing and fermentation process. NISSOS beers are full of exciting flavors and alluring aromas! They contain absolutely no preservatives or additives and are naturally carbonated. Cycladic NISSOS beers are offered today in the most iconic Greek hotels, restaurants, Museums and Mediterranean Beach Bars. They are exported in Cyprus, the United Kingdom, Belgium and Australia.
contact details
Cyclades Microbrewery at Tinos Island Vaya, Tinos 84200, Greece http://nissos. beer/ info@nissos.beer Tel. 22830 26333 www.facebook. com/nissosbeer/ LiFO Greek Islands
Beaches Perhaps the most famous beach on Tinos is Kolympithra, which is on the north coast and is very exposed to the etesian winds. The surf is usually high here, which is why this is a favourite spot for surfers. The bay of Panormos is a natural harbour and has a beach and nice restaurants, but the nearby Rohari beach is much more popular
TINOS Starbucks chilled classic coffee beverages Before you start exploring Tinos, get Starbucks Chocolate Mocha that will become the most delicious thing you will have in your bag. It is waiting you at grocery & convenient stores and kiosks all over the island.
124–Τinos
and attracts a mostly young crowd. On the southwest coast, the bay at Ysternia offers two beaches, one with sand and the other with pebbles, which are sheltered from the northern winds and face west towards Syros and the sunset. Further east is the beach of Agios Petros, close to the village of Kardiani, and Agios Romanos with its famous tavern; a few meters from Agios Roma-
nos is Apigania, a much quieter swimming option. The beaches closest to Tinos town are Kionia and Agios Fokas, but they tend to be touristy. If you’re looking for a more secluded spot that is great for swimming even when the wind is strong, head to Agios Markos, which is within walking distance from the town. Agios Sostis and Agios Ioannis are three beaches facing the alluring Mykonos skyline to the east; the same goes for Pachia Ammos, which is the only beach on the island with a dune. The nearby Lichnaftia beach is very secluded and quiet with pebbles and sand, while Santa Margarita is also tranquil and surrounded by large rocks. One of the best spots on the island is the beach at Livada, with crystal-clear waters and impressive rocks, but access by car is very difficult.
Sights & Experiences Tinos is one of the most visited sites of Greek Orthodox Christianity, because of the important church of the Virgin Mary of Tinos, or Megalochari in Chora. Many Greeks travel to Tinos every summer to fulfil their vows to the Madonna, and bring tamata (silver votives and candles) to deposit at her icon. Naturally, the climax of the summer season is around the 15th of August, when the holiday of the Dormition of Mary is celebrated with festivals around the island. Tinos used to be an important religious centre in antiquity as well, with pilgrims purifying themselves at the temple of Poseidon at Kionia before departing for Delos. Religion still plays an important part in the island’s identity, as it is
LiFO Greek Islands
Trion Ierarchon str, Chora, Tinos Tel +30 22830 22818 www.mikrokaravi.gr www.facebook.com/pages/Itan-Ena-Mikro-Karavi
one of the few places in Greece where Orthodox and Catholic Christians live together. Some of the villages on Tinos are Catholic, and there are many important Catholic monasteries as well, the most important being that of the Sacred Heart in Xobourgo. The real beauties of Tinos are found beyond the limits of the main town, particularly in the many traditional villages scattered around the island. Visit the village of Xinara for its churches and impressive views of the towering rock of Xobourgo, and the ancient village of Arnado for its traditional architecture. The “mascot” of Tinos architecture is its ornate dovecotes, which you will inevitably come across many times during your stay; the most impressive are to be found in the valley of Tarampado. An unusual sight awaits at the village of Volax, where strange rocks are scattered in the fields creating an otherworldly sight. The village of Ysternia is built on a seaside cliff facing Syros, and is perfect for a stroll and drinks at sunset; a more alternative option is the village of Dio Horia, with equally stunning views.
Culture & Events The village of Pyrgos is famous for its long marble-carving tradition, and a place where you
126–Τinos
can visit many sculptors’ workshops as well as a modern Museum of Marble Crafts. Pyrgos is the birthplace of several famous Greek sculptors, such as Yannoulis Chalepas, whose house is now a museum. At the Tsoclis Museum in Kambos (tsoclismuseum. gr) you will find works by contemporary Greek artist Costas Tsoclis, and at the Cultural Foundation of Tinos (itip.gr) there are annual exhibitions with modern and contemporary art every summer; currently on display is the exhibition Reassembly (5 July-31 October), organised by the artist residency programme of Tinos Quarry Platform. Kinono is an annual art gathering on Tinos, with a special art project taking place this year at the Ursulines Monastery (15 July-31 August, kinono.org). In Tinos you will also find a small Archaeological Museum (+30 22830 29063) with findings from the temple of Poseidon and ancient settlements, a Museum of Tinian Artists (+30 22830 22256) inside the Virgin Mary of Tinos complex, and a Traditional Ceramics Museum in the village of Aetofolia.
Moving Around Tinos is one of the largest Cycladic islands, and is for its most part covered with high mountains. There is a total of 62 villages on the island,
all easily accessible via a decent road network. Frequent service of public bus connects Tinos town with major villages and beaches, and you can also rent a car or scooter to move around more independently. Taxis are also available, and can take you to any place on the island at a fixed price. You can see most of Tinos by bus, but in order to visit all the interesting villages and beaches you will definitely need a car. The island is covered by a vast network of hiking trails, and if the heat is not too intense, you can walk to certain villages and beaches across the countryside.
More to Know → Tinos is also called the “handmade island”, both for its long sculptural tradition but also because the entire island is covered with the manmade supporting walls (xerolithies) of now abandoned hillside farms. → Foodies will rejoice in Tinos, especially in the more authentic restaurants and tavernas of small villages. Try the local fourtalia or froutalia, which is an omelette with potatoes or artichokes and sausage, as well as delicious Tinos cheeses and raki. → There are many activities you can do on Tinos, including hiking and trekking on the island’s ancient trails, sailing at the local yacht
club, horse riding tours, certified scuba diving lessons and of course surf lessons at Kolympithra beach. → The nightlife of Tinos is relatively calm and downtempo compared to other islands. There are many restaurants and bars of course, and some really idyllic spots for drinks with spectacular views—but if you’re up for a night of partying, hop on the local ferry to Mykonos (approx. 30 minutes).
Getting there
There is daily boat service to Tinos fom Piraeus and Rafina near Athens, as well as from other Cycladic islands. Private yachts can berth at the island’s main port (marina services available), or at Panormos bay in the north. There is also a helipad on the south coast, near the beach of Agios Fokas. The capital of Tinos is Tinos town (or Chora), and important villages are Pyrgos, Falatados and Ysternia.
LiFO Greek Islands
MAYOU All-Day Bar
LiFO Choice Tinos MAYOU All-Day Bar Isternia, Tinos, Tel +30 2283 031882 www.facebook.com/mayou. tinos Perched on the picturesque Isternia Village on the west side of Tinos Island, you will find MAYOU All-day Bar, one of the most beautiful natural balconies in the Cyclades with majestic views to the Aegean Sea. Make a stop here before you set off for swimming and along with an iced coffee or their exceptional homemade lemonade, treat yourself to an amazing breakfast or branch by choosing among the many dishes prepared for you by the chef with local products. And when the sun is down, MAYOU transforms to one of the best choices on the island to have a drink or a refreshing signature cocktail listening to great music while gazing at the stars and the open sea. 01
128–Τinos
Αristidis Dalas Architect Stavrou & Kionion Avenue,Tinos, Tel.: +30 6936 141 452 www.aristidesdallas.gr, info@aristidesdallas.gr Tinos is one of the most beautiful islands of Cyclades, famous for its picturesque villages and spectacular beaches with crystal clear waters that make for a great place to build a home. Aristeidis Ntalas is a talented, awarded architect who has been living in Tinos for the last 3 years and has already put his signature to some of the greatest new buildings of the island. He explores the qualities and boundaries of local architecture and translates it into a modern architectural vocabulary. Graduated from the Architecture department at the National Technical University of Athens he is considered among the most promising architects in the modern architecture scene 02
of Greece. Αristidis Dalas Architect
LiFO Greek Islands
Isternia, 84200 IstĂŠrnia, Kikladhes, Greece Tel.: 22830-31882 Mayou.tinos@gmail.com #MAYOU.TINOS
Alohari Beach Bar
Ena Mikro Karavi
LiFO Choice
Dough and shaker
Tinos
Alohari Beach Bar Rochari beach, Panormos Tinos, www.facebook. com/rocharibeachpanormos Alohari beach bar is located in Rochari beach, near Panormos village of Tinos. Ethnic fabrics, a wooden bar on the sand, hammocks and lots of rum, compose a Caribbean setting that will make it your favorite spot for swimming and rexalation. Refreshing, signature cocktails made by one of the most famous bartenders in Athens and delicious fresh snacks made by local products, is all you need to relax all day by the sea. Reggae, cuban and indie rock play all day at this exotic beach bar and the parties are almost daily now that we 03
130–Τinos
are in the peak of the summer. Just come along and say aloha! Open daily from 10 a.m to 10 p.m. Ena Mikro Karavi Trion Ierarchon str, Chora, Tinos, Tel +30 22830 22818, www.mikrokaravi.gr www.facebook.com/pages/ Itan-Ena-Mikro-Karavi Once you visit the island of Tinos ask for the restaurant Mikro Karavi in Chora and pick a table in its must see lovely garden. A relaxing, atmospheric place with cozy sofas and comfortable large tables, Mikro Karavi is the place that gathers people from all over the island that share a 04
passion for good food. The menu set with care by the chef and owner of the restaurant guaranties a once in a lifetime culinary experience. All dishes are cooked with local products, but also selected ones by small farms all over Cyclades and the rest of Greece. You can choose among 30 different etiquettes of Greek wines, many of which can also be served in a glass, for those who want to have a full wine tasting experience. Dough and shaker Pyrgos, Tinos, Tel +30 2283 031119 Located in Pyrgos the village of marble, one of the most beautiful and characteristic villages of Tinos, Dough 05
and shaker is the place you simply have to visit. More than a pizza restaurant – bar, Dough and Shaker is the absolute place to relax while tasting, homemade fresh pasta and unique pizzas made with their special dough that’s neither Italian nor American. The family behind this new beautiful spot in Tinos is in the pizza making business in Athens for more than four decades. All the ingredients, from cheeses to cold cuts, are carefully selected from small Greek producers, while vegetables come fresh from the island’s orchards. Enjoy your meal with a refreshing signature cocktail made by the awarded mixologist Giorgos Tsirikos.
LiFO Greek Islands
ALOHARI
ROCHARI BEACH PANORMOS TINOS
08.
Koufonisia → If there’s a corner of the Greek seas that reflects an image of paradise, that’s the turquoise lagoons and miniature islands of Koufonisia. This tiny archipelago is one of the calmest and less-developed parts of the Cyclades, and its deserted parts are popular with free-campers, free spirits and urban dwellers looking to disconnect completely. The beaches here are one better than the next, the
132–Koufonisia
waters are gleaming with a Carribean blue, the days are lazy and carefree, the nights are laid back and sociable. There’s only a hint of a schedule in Koufonisia—so time-keeping is a habit you will gradually have to wean yourself from, as you lower your pace and exhale your worries out on these enchanting little isles that bohemians in the know have been visiting for decades.
LiFO Greek Islands
Beaches The beaches in Koufonisia are well-sheltered from the northern winds and with crystal clear, turquoise waters. Due to their remote location, the islands are very mildly developed, which means the landscape is unspoiled and you can completely immerse yourself in the wild Cycladic beauty, often without any sign of civilisation in sight. This is a place to be secluded and relaxed, and there are many places here where you can do just that, even when the islands are crowded during high season. On Pano Koufonissi you will find Ammos beach right next to the village,
which is the easiest option for a quick swim. The rest of the beaches are along the east coast, and very easy to reach, either on foot or by the local sea bus called the lantza. Hontros Kavos is a beach with pebbles and a restaurant, and Harokopou beach is sandy, also with a restaurant and a lantza stop. Further up you will find Fanos beach with fine golden sand and its own restaurant, and then Italida (also known as Platia Pounta), which is one of the busiest beaches on the island but doesn’t have a restaurant. The most beautiful beach on Pano Koufonissis is probably Pori, which lies inside the embrace of a
KOUFONISIA Get ready for an unforgettable summer with Starbucks Chilled Vanilla Bean Macchiato. Discover all the delicious and refreshing flavors of Starbucks Chilled Classics at grocery & convenient stores and kiosk wherever you are this summer.
134–Koufonisia
golden bay. Nearby you will find interesting sea caves where you can also swim inside. Nudism is generally tolerated in certain places on Pano Koufonissi, but you will feel much more comfortable and welcome wearing nothing on Kato Koufonissi instead. Kato Koufonissi has no permanent residents and only a tavern is open there during the summer months. Jump on the lantza to bring you across, and hop off either at Panagia for a swim at Lakoi beach, or at Nero beach further south. Other beaches on Kato Koufonissi are Detis, which is well-sheltered from the northern winds, and Pezoulia, which is also sheltered and covered with fine pebble. You can also swim on the remote beaches on Glaronissi, but you’ll have to charter the lantza specially to bring you across.
Sights & Experiences Pano Koufonissi is considered the smallest inhabited Greek island, and most of its approximately 400 residents are fishermen. The little village of Chora on Pano Koufonissi is a typical Cycladic
settlement with a small Folklore Museum, where you can find traditional artefacts and tools used for farming and fishing. The exhibits at the museum are all donations by local families, so the collection is like a little treasure trove of local identity and history. The island also has two pre-industrial Windmills, which are listed monuments and hail back to the time when Koufonisia farmers used to make their own flour. On the island’s highest hill (133 meters) you can find an impromptu chapel to Profitis Ilias, which has no walls or roof but locals still visit to pray and celebrate the saint’s holiday (20 July). The views from here are really impressive, as you can see half of the island, and if the weather is clear you can see as far as Santorini. On the island of Kato Koufonissi there is an abandoned settlement and a church of Virgin Mary (Panagia), which was built in 1561. On the holiday of the Dormition of Virgin Mary (15 August) a big festival is organised here with decorated boats arriving from all parts of the archipelago, with all the local community in attendance. Natural beauties abound on Koufonisia, which are often described as a small paradise on earth. Gala is a small beach on the peninsula of Pori beach, where you can descend into a large hole in the rock for a swim. Eye of the Devil is a sea cave on the other side of Pori bay, large enough for you to walk inside and experience the reverberating sound of the splashing waves. There are also a couple of caves in the cove of Xylompati, which is to the north of Pori. Between Pori and Italida you will also find a Natural Pool carved inside the LiFO Greek Islands
Koufonisia, +30 22850 71468
rocky coast, which is perfect for swimming. For a truly unique experience in nature you might consider free-camping on Kato Koufonissi and spend a few days in complete solitude, surrounded by pristine nature, meeting herds of goats and swimming naked in the sea.
Moving Around The islands in Koufonisia are extremely small, and walking is how most people move around. There are no buses, and you won’t find any car or scooter rentals here, but bicycles are available. The lantza sea bus has regular service to all the beaches and Kato Koufonissi. You can also charter the lantza for daytrips to Glaronissi and Keros.
More to Know → Being the island with the largest amount of boats per capita in Greece, Pano Koufonissi
LiFO Choice Koufonisia
Sorocos
has a very active fishing industry. Never miss the chance to try fresh fish and seafood at one of the local taverns. → There are not many landmarks on Koufonisia but the natural landscape offers itself for many outdoor activities. There are a few interesting hiking trails, the longest of which are on Kato Koufonissi. There is also a scuba diving school on Pano Koufonissi, which will show you the island’s underwater beauties. Snorkelling and sailing are also popular activities, and you might consider a day trip to the nearby islands of Schinoussa and Iraklia. → There is a literature festival taking place on Koufonisia, with poetry readings, workshops and parties on the beach. It’s called the Festival of the Sand and is taking place on 25 August (Pano Koufonissi) and 26 August
(Kato Koufonissi). → Pano Koufonissi also has an exceptional gellateria artigianale called Fystiki, where you can enjoy fresh gelato daily. → The nearby island of Keros is one of the most important archaeological sites in the Cyclades, and is considered to have been a religious centre as influential as Delos. Many artefacts from the Cycladic Civilisation (3,000 BCE) have been unearthed here, and excavations are still underway on some parts of the island. Camping is not allowed on the island, but you can visit and sail around it like ancient pilgrims used to do.
Getting there
The Koufonissia cluster is part of the Lesser Cyclades archipelago, which is contained by the triangle of Naxos, Ios and Amorgos. There are daily boats to Koufo-
Sorocos Cocktail bar Ano Koufonisi, +302285071704 One of the most photographed cocktail bars in Koufonisia and the first to open 9 years ago, Sorokos bar is famous for its rich cellar with the most special and rare bottles on the island. Situated in the most characteristic area of the island, it has become a trademark for those who want to enjoy some of the best cocktails on the island. This year, it was internally renovated, introducing a kitchen area that operates from morning. Enjoy your breakfast or brunch, but also some more refined dishes made with the freshest of ingredients 01
Koufonisia tours Tel +30 22850 74435 – 22850 74091, www. koufonissiatours.gr, info@ koufonissiatours.gr 02
Koufonisia tours
136–Koufonisia
nissia from Piraeus, and less frequent service from Rafina near Athens; alternatively you can fly to Mykonos, Santorini or Naxos and take a boat from there. There is also direct boat service to Koufonissia from Amorgos, Donousa, Folegandros, Ios, Irakleia, Milos, Paros, Schinoussa, Syros and Tinos. The sea in Koufonissia is like a natural harbour, so private yachts can anchor here easily. There are four islands in the cluster: Pano Koufonissi, Kato Koufonissi, Keros and Glaronissi. The only village is on Pano Koufonissi, with hotels, restaurants and other amenities. The rest of the islands in Koufonissia are uninhabited, but loaded with history and natural beauty
Koufonissia tours is an agency set up to provide you with everything you need from accommodation to boat rental but even real estate in the islands of Small East Cyclades. Situated in Koufonissi, the agency undertakes to find you the best available rooms to let and hotels in Koufonissia, Donousa, Schinoussa and Iraklia. Take a day trip on the rock islands around Koufonissia and Keros, with their recreational sailboat, and enjoy all the beautiful beaches and the crystal blue waters that make this island a real heaven. And if you wish to have a delightful diving experience do not hesitate to address to Koufonissia tours and take up lessons with an experienced instructor or simply rent the adequate equipment if you’ re already familiar to the sport.
LiFO Greek Islands
ACCOMMODATION DAILY TRIPS WITH KOALA VI SAILBOAT RENTAL RENT INFLATABLE BOATS WITH A SKIPPER DAILY SEA TRIPS WITH KAYAK HIKING DIVING CENTER
KOUFONISIA, CYCLADES TEL.: 0030 22850 74435 & 0030 22850 74091 FAX: 0030 22850 74435 MOB.: 0030 6944 244158 E-MAIL: INFO@KOUFONISSIATOURS.GR Summer 2017
Koufonisia Cyclades, 22850 71834, FB: ΟΙ ΑΤΑΙΡΙΑΣΤΟΙ Koufonisia–137
KoufoniSia Hotel
Gastronaftis
LiFO Choice Koufonisia
Atairiastoi KoufoniSia Hotel Ano Koufonisi Island, +30 22850 74068 Located in Ano (Upper) Koufonisi, Koufonisia Hotel welcomes you to an establishment designed with love and passion. It is the only 4 star hotel not only in Koufonisia but in the wider region of Small Cyclades as well. Recently renovated and built in stone it consists of fifty beautiful, rooms built in amphitheatric style, have a view of the garden, the pool and the marine blue ocean. Here, at Koufonisia Hotel you will enjoy the most relaxing and refreshing holidays. Just 50 meters from the nearest beach, dream-like Koufonisia Hotel offers vacationers a reward03
138–Koufonisia
ing experience and all the modern amenities for your complete recreation and relaxation. Gastronaftis Ano Koufonissi, Tel +30 22850 71468 Its name stands for someone who knows about gastronomy and travels the Greek seas to bring you fresh fish and seafood daily. Gastronaftis presents Greek modern cuisine and a menu that is bound to satisfy your senses. Located in the central road of the island, where everyone meets each other after a long day at the beach is known not only for its delicacies but its cozy atmosphere and friendly service as well. 04
Whatever you choose to eat, from tasty appetizers such as Fava with caramelized onion, Feta cheese with honey and sesame and tomato marmalade, or their very interesting main courses based on meat or seafood, risotto and fresh pasta, Gastronaftis will surprise you pleasantly. Atairiastoi Koufonissia, Tel +30 22850 71834, +30 6944244158 Once you find yourself in this small paradise in Cyclades, you have to make a stop at Atairiastoi restaurant. Mrs. Anna in the kitchen gives her very best every day cooking such delicious traditional dishes that you would think you were 05
eating in a Greek home. From traditional recipes like moussakas and stuffed wine leaves with lemon and egg sauce to lamb with potatoes in the oven, sea urchin spaghetti or meatballs, the menu presents a lot of tastes, made with the best ingredients. You will also find fresh fish and seafood like grilled local octopus or marinated anchovy among others or you can ask for its famous Atairiastoi chicken which is chicken fillet with penne, pineapple, light milk cream, herbs and graviera cheese from Naxos.Ď‚
LiFO Greek Islands
Summer 2017
Koufonisia–139
09.
Amorgos → If you want to polish your French or Italian, Amorgos is the place to do it, because the island is full of tourists from these two countries. The easternmost island of the Cyclades is famous for its beautifully preserved main village, Hora, and its celebrated
140–Amorgos
crystal clear waters, immortalised in Luc Besson’s movie The Big Blue. The island is a quiet place where you will enjoy archetypical Cycladic architecture, traditional customs and reasonable prices.
LiFO Greek Islands
What to do The island has two ports, Katapola and Aegiali, and plenty of small settlements inland which are worth a visit to observe the lifestyle of the islanders especially if you visit at the time of a panigiri (festivals held on saints’
AMORGOS Starbucks chilled classic coffee beverages Starbucks Chilled Vanilla Bean Macchiato is your essential ally for summer swims. You can find it at grocery & convenient stores and kiosks in Amorgos or any other of your summer destinations.
142–Amorgos
days, the main one being on August 15th). Amorgos is dry and mountainous, with its three highest peaks reaching between 630-890 metres high. Walking, diving and climbing are some of the islanders’ favourite pastimes and Amorgos Diving Centre (Aegiali, Tel:
+30 22850 73611, email: scuba@amorgos-diving. com, www.amorgosdiving.com) plans all three. The small company started with diving trips around Amorgos’ coast line and soon added hiking and walking tours, all led by experienced guides. In recent years, local authorities have mapped and marked seven main footpaths which connect the main villages. This initiative has proved a great success, with groups of islanders and tourists criss-crossing hills and valleys all year round. As you hike through the arid land, you encounter small white churches (ksoklisia), cisterns built to retain much needed rain water, and herds of goats grazing between shrubs. Between the mountains, the hinterland reveals the valley of Kolofana at
the west, the biggest on the island and the small valley of Katapola at the centre. Look up and you see the windmills standing proudly on the mountain ridge. For all those adventurous souls out there, you’d be happy to know that Amorgos has added itself in the geocaching community (an elaborate treasure hunt). If your mobile phone has a GPS, log in www.geocaching. com, follow the instructions and you’re good to go. The website www. amorgos-island-magazine. com has, among other island information, tips on geocaches stashed around the island, as well as a relevant map. A walk around Hora reveals the slow paced life of the islanders. People leave their doors open, whiffs of cooked food LiFO Greek Islands
The mansion of Gavras houses the Archaeological Museum (open Tue-Sun 09:00-13:00 and 18:0020:30) with its impressive selection of statues, parts of columns and utensils dug out from three ancient settlements on the island. Tholaria is the most picturesque village inland from Aegiali and should be visited in the evening for dinner and a view of the sunset. Just 100 metres outside the village is Café Seladi (Tel: +30 6932 627365) the perfect place to stretch your aching feet, drink your coffee and take in the beautiful panoramic view of the surrounding hills. Langada village, just before Tholaria, is just as charming and worth a visit. Islanders gather at the square of the lower neighbourhood (kato gitonia) to play bocce with old ladies looking on from their house entrances.
Monastery escape from the green and red shutters, and stray cats roam around lazily hoping to find a little something to eat. Just like the other Cycladic villages, this one also was under Venetian rule and has a castle to prove it. It was built by Jeremiah Gizis in the 13th century to defend the island against invaders who also built the church of Agios Georgios (Saint George).
Perched perilously on a rocky mountain side 300 metres above sea level, the Byzantine monastery of Panagia Hozoviotisa, patron saint of the island, has a remarkable collection of rare icons and manuscripts. Climbing up the endless stone steps is a feat in its own merit, but the view from the small plateau, which marks the entrance to the monastery is well worth the effort.
Beaches Amorgos has a few beaches which are easily accessible, but for the rest you will need to do some easy or more serious hiking. Get a map, a bottle of water and walking shoes, and you’re ready to go. A favoured option is Agia Anna, whose crystal clear blue waters featured in The Big Blue. If you continue driving past Agia Anna, you will find Kambi, a beach popular with nudists. In southeastern Amorgos close to Vroutsi village is Mouros beach, which can be reached by
car and then you descend a dirt path for 10 minutes to reach its rocky shore. Psili Ammos beach is a long stretch of sand with pristine water, which can be reached either by boat, or by a 35-minute walk. After a 20-minute walk from Ormos, you will see Levrosos, the perfect beach for nudists. At the south, there is sandy Perivolas, the small cove of Kato Kambos, Paradisia and Kalotaritisa. From Kalotaritisa you can cross by boat to the uninhabited island of Gramvousa for a swim. The quiet beach of Agios Pavlos is close to the namesake village. At the tip of the cove, a 10-metre long stretch of white sand forms a natural, picture perfect “peninsula”. If the beach is full by the time you reach it, walk about 20 minutes south of Agios Pavlos and you will find small secluded beaches. From the side of Katapola, you will find in turn the organised Maltezi beach, Agios Panteleimonas, Kato Akrotiri and Finikies.
Getting there
There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Amorgos. Blue Star Ferries is the most reliable way to get to Amorgos. www.bluestarferries.gr
01
LiFO Choice Amorgos
Βotilia café-bar Summer 2017
The monastery was built by Byzantine Empreror Alexios Komninos in 1088. If you’re in Amorgos on November 21st, join locals at the panigiri organised at the monastery for a special treat of free local specialties and loads of dance. Another interesting sight on the island is the villa of Iannis Xenakis –Greek composer, theorist and architect– built for his daughter and her husband between 1966 and 1977, close to Lefkes village, overlooking the gulf of Tirokomos. Xenakis, who worked at Le Corbusier’s studios between 1947 and 1959, designed a typical Cycladic building with clear modernist elements, like the thunderbolt-like openings on the walls. It consists of four white separate buildings forming a curve.
Botilia café-bar
Χώρα, With signature cocktails that will just make you return night after night to this beautifully decorated multi-level café bar, Botilia is the place to be when in Amorgos. Choose to spend your evening in the elegant terrace if you are the romantic type, or dance to some of the greatest music of all genres in one of the two floors of this Cycladic gem.
Amorgos–143
10.
Crete
Balos
→ For mainland Greeks, Crete is that beloved distant relative that you don’t see very often but keep close to your heart at all times. For the Cretans themselves, their island is the best place in the world. A visit will convince you that indeed, Crete is probably the best place to be—at least as far as great food and natural beauty are concerned. This mountainous, rugged island offers 144–Crete
a panorama of gorges, valleys and misty peaks, while its countless beaches have turned the island into one of the most popular Greek destinations. With a history that disappears back into the mists of time and a culinary tradition that is famous around the world, Crete is an entire country compressed into an island, and it will take more than a single visit to discover its secrets. LiFO Greek Islands
17 Chatzimichali Daliani str., Chania, Crete, Tel +30 2821020003 / 6979331071 / 6947606472 www.bluebellsuites.com, info@bluebellsuites.com
Beaches With 1000 km of coastline, it’s hard not to be overwhelmed by the sheer number and variety of beaches on Crete. In general, the north side of the island tends to have sandier beaches but more waves due to the winds, and the south coast is rockier but the water is warmer. In the region of Chania, the beaches at Falassarna are unbelievably beautiful and have the best sunset views on the west coast, while the nearby beaches of Sfinari are great for snorkelling. There are several long beaches inside the bay of Kissamos, and for the freshest fish head to Ravdoucha. To avoid the touristy crowds you can drive to Afrata where there’s also a small canteen, or to Marathi to mingle with the locals. On the south coast, the beaches of Paleochora are particularly beautiful,
146–Crete
with the less crowded being Anidroi. Glyka Nera is surrounded by stunning cliffs and is very popular with nudists, but you can only get there on foot or by boat from the nearby village of Loutro. In Rethymno, there’s a 12-km-long beach that begins from the town and stretches to the west, but the part close to the town tends to be crowded. The pebbly beach at Geropotamos has an impressive natural setting and is organised with sunbeds, but if you want to be completely alone seek out the hidden coves at Panormo. On the south coast, head to Rodakino and try to find the secluded beach at Agia Marina, or head to Souda. The beaches at Ammoudi are very beautiful but are usually crowded, and the locals usually swim at Kerames and Akoumia. The north coast of Iraklio is very touristy and built with resorts and seaside
restaurants, which means you can choose the beaches at Agia Pelagia, Karteros and Kokkini Hani if you’re looking for loud music and a lively atmosphere. Swallow Beach near Paliokastro is very quiet and has a nice little restaurant. The resort town of Hersonisos has several beaches for all tastes, some with watersports and clubs. On the south coast, the beach at Matala used to be a haven for hippies in the 70’s, and the picturesque beach at Kokkini Ammos welcomes nudists but is accessible only either on foot of by boat from Matala. Ayiofarango is a well-sheltered beach that is also only accessible by foot via the nearby gorge, or by boat from the village of Kaloi Limenes. Psili Ammos is hidden inside a rough bay under impressive cliffs, but is only accessible on foot or by boat from the village of Lentas.
The easternmost region of Crete is called Lasithi, and its beaches attract a more alternative crowd. Driros is one of the best beaches in the famed Elounda bay, with tamarisks growing right on the edge of the water. There are some excellent beaches conveniently situated near the town of Agios Nikolaos, but the beaches at Kalo Horio are much quieter. Other amazing beaches on the south coast are Ferma, Agia Fotia and Kalo Nero.
Sights & Experiences Crete is an island of show-stopping natural beauty, with large mountains occupying most of its interior. The many gorges found on the island are a hiker’s dream, with the Samaria Gorge being the most popular and the longest in Europe at 14 km. The gorge is in the region of
LiFO Greek Islands
MAIN SHOP: CHATZIMIXALI NTALIANI 58 OLD TOWN CHANIA T.+3028215.01705 FRANCHISE SHOP:Â LEVENTI 7 KOLONAKI ATHENS T.+30213.0024253 F.+30213.0051329 www.georginaskalidi.com // www.facebook.com/georginaskalidi // info@georginaskalidi.com
Sfakia, which is a corner of Crete worth exploring for its natural beauty and traditional culture. Other unusual natural locations are the lagoon and sandy beaches at Elafonissos on the southwest coast, and the impressive forest of palm trees at Vai, which also has an organised beach. On the uninhabited island of Gaidouronissi you will find amazing golden beaches but also a forest of ancient cedars. The beach at Preveli is one of the most famous spots on Crete, where a river meets the sea and forms a sandy barrier with an oasis. The documented history of Crete begins some 4,700 years ago with the rise of the Minoan civilisation and its maritime empire that was known all the way to Egypt. The ruins of this prosperous nation of seafarers have been unearthed at several locations on Crete, the most famous
148–Crete
and impressive being the palace at Knossos, and the towns of Faistos and Malia. Meanwhile, a visit to any of Crete’s three main towns will bring you face to face with monuments from different eras, including Byzantine, Medieval and Ottoman buildings. Crete also played an important part in World War II, so many monuments and landmarks relate to that time. The Cretan countryside is dotted with small villages that are worth exploring for their authentic character and amazing food culture. It’s hard not to taste a bit of everything when in Crete, since every region has its own local recipes and treats, many of which are offered during annual festivals (see below). The main ingredient of Cretan cookery is of course the olive oil, which is being produced on the island for thousands of years;
in fact, there are olive trees on Crete that are considered to be over 1000 years old. The most active regions for the production of olive oil are Iraklio, Chania, Siteia and Kolymvari, where you can visit the olive groves and even take a tour at a local oil press.
Culture & Events The Archaeological Museum of Iraklio (+30 2810 279000) is the most important museum on Crete, and carries treasures from the Minoan palaces unearthed on the island. The Archaeological Museum of Chania (+30 28210 90334) is housed inside an impressive medieval cathedral, and in Lasithi there are archaeological museums in Agios Nikolaos (+30 28410 24943) and Siteia (+30 28430 23917). In Iraklio there is also a Historical Museum (+30 2810 283219) dedicated
to the island’s history from Byzantine times to World War II, and in Chania you can also visit the Nautical Museum of Crete (+30 28210 91875) housed inside the town’s medieval fort. There are dozens of summer festivals in Crete, most of which take place in August and coincide with the religious holiday of the Dormition of Virgin Mary (15 August); also known as panygiria in Greece, these are celebrations that bring the communities together and involve a lot of traditional food, drink and dance. Other festivals are organised to promote and celebrate local traditions and products, such as the Amari Green Festival (21-25 July) and the Kissamos Culture Festival (12-20 August). In the city of Iraklio the annual Heraklion Summer Arts Festival is taking place with theatre, music, dance and visual arts
LiFO Greek Islands
Knossos is the site of the most important and better known palace of Minoan civilization. According to tradition, it was the seat of the legendary king Minos. The Palace is also connected with thrilling legends, such as the myth of the Labyrinth with the Minotaur, and the story of Daidalos and Icaros.
RETHYMNO
CHANIA
39 Palaiologou str, Rethymno, Crete, Tel +30 2831024468 37 Potie str, Chania, Crete, Tel +30 2821028393 Fb: @queen.rethymno insta:@queen_the_shop 150–Crete
LiFO Greek Islands
32, Chatzimichali Daliani str., Chania T: 28210 57992
(July-October), and in Ierapetra the 4th International Documentary Festival is taking place from 5-10 August. In addition to temporary festivals, you will find art galleries, cinemas and theatres in all major towns in Crete that are open throughout the summer.
Moving Around A network of public buses connects all major towns to villages and some famous beaches, and you will find their schedules at the local bus stations (also known as KTEL). Renting a car might be a good option if you’re planning on covering long distances on your own, and scooters or bicycles will prove useful for covering short distances. The taxis in Crete are usually silver, and you
152–Crete
can use them to get to and from the airport or move around the larger towns. Some remote beaches are only reachable by sea, and boat taxis can be found at some villages (see above in the beaches section).
More to Know → Crete is the largest Greek island, and is 260 km long; this means that covering the whole island in a few days will be a very ambitious, if not impossible, project. Focus on certain areas and discover them in depth rather than setting out to do a full tour of the island, unless you have a month ahead of you. → Arrange a daytrip along the coasts of Crete, or even a complete tour of the island by yacht to discover the best beaches and fish taverns. Contact
a local travel agent to assist you. → Visit the island of Spinalonga in Elounda bay, a former leper colony that inspired Victoria Hislop’s 2005 novel “The Island”. → Another interesting excursion is to the island of Gavdos, which is the southmost point in Greece. → Sports lovers and adventure seekers will be fully content on Crete, as there are many rough mountains for hiking and rock-climbing, spectacular coasts full of wildlife for scuba-diving, breathtaking cliffs that are perfect for paragliding and deep gorges in Sfakia that are popular for bungee-jumping.
Getting there
Crete is the largest Greek island and the fifth largest in the Mediterranean. Its capital is the town of Irakleio (or Herakleion), and its most important towns are Chania, Rethymno, Ierapetra, Agios Nikolaos and Sitia. There are two international airports in Irakleio and Chania, and a small regional airport in Sitia. Crete’s airports connect to major airports in Greece, and there are also direct flights from many European countries. There is regular ferry service that connects Piraeus with Iraklio (7 hours), Chania (9 hours) and other ports on Crete. For private yachts there are marinas in Agios Nikolaos, Iraklio, Gouves and Rethymno.
LiFO Greek Islands
18 Isodion St Old Harbour, Chania T: 2821302801
Argentina Restaurant Kolymbari village, Tel +30 2824022243, www. kolymbarichania.com/ argentina_restaurant Near the harbor of Kolymbari village, one of the top destinations in Chania (Crete) you will find Argentina Restaurant, a traditional fish tavern to enjoy your meal with a magical view to the sea. Its menu is based on sea food and fresh fish, while you can also taste some traditional dishes cooked with origin olive oil from Kolymbari village. Fried squids, octopus with honey and wine sauce, spaghetti with shrimps or lobster are among the delicacies of the menu, that you shouldn’t 01
Argentina Restaurant
miss. Accompany your meal with some cold raki, the traditional Cretan spirit, or one the local wines. Open daily from early morning until late at night. Mesogeiako Restaurant 36 Chatzimichali Ntaliani str, Chania, Crete, Tel +30 2821057992, www.mesogiako.com Situated in a renovated building opposite the Turkish Minaret in one of the most picturesque and vivid streets of Chania, the restaurant Mesogiako is one of the top choices for tasting a creative variety of Greek and Mediterranean cuisine. Its garden is ideal for summer romantic dinners. You 02
will find lots of interesting dishes and inspired salads in the menu, among which the famous escallops with black truffle sauce and the deliciously grilled sea bass with vegetable kous-kous – delicacies that are just too good not to try. Don’t forget though to have a bite of its homemade desserts that will surprise pleasantly your palate! Bluebell Hospitallity Collection 17 Chatzimichali Daliani str., Chania, Crete, Tel +30 2821020003 / 6979331071 / 6947606472 www.bluebellsuites.com info@bluebellsuites.com Located in the most colorful and vibrant street of the Old 03
Town of Chania, where you can find many shops, cafés and restaurants, Bluebell Hospitality Collection is an ideal choice for your stay in the city and a comfortable basis for your exploration to its beauties. Bluebell Hospitality Collection consists of Bluebell Luxury Suites, Bluebell Minaret Suites and Bluebell Luxury Apartments, 14 brand new and luxurious units appointed with minimal aesthetic and furnished with attention to detail.Combining luxury and vibrancy, Bluebell Hospitality Collection can give you impeccable hospitality and memorable accommodation, providing all the comforts for a unique boutique experience.
Mesogeiako Restaurant
LiFO Choice Crete
Bluebell Hospitallity Collection
154–Crete
LiFO Greek Islands
Δεμ Jewellery
Georgina Skalidi
LiFO Choice Crete
Queen Δεμ Jewellery 56 & 67 Potie str Xania Tel.: 2821 040384 Right in the center of Chania you will find two jewelry stores that definitely deserve your attention. Two siblings, Dimitris and Elena Mparnia, coming from a family with tradition in making jewels, create their own unique pieces, which are well known all over Greece. Using gold, silver but also other materials such as ebony, glass and silk fabrics they present a beautiful collection of hand – crafted jewels for both women and men. At their stores, apart from their own creations, you 04
156–Crete
will also find selected items of some other talented Greek designers such as M. Margoni, Apostolos, T. Choremi, Chr. Soubli, Kk Jewelry Lab, Sarina etc. Georgina Skalidi 58 Chatzimichali Daliani str, Old town of Chania, Crete, Tel 28215.01705 www.georginaskalidi.com www.facebook.com/georginaskalidi In one of the most picturesque streets of the old town in Chania, somewhere between the lovely taverns and restaurants of the area, you will find Georgina’s Skalidis boutique, a store that will bring summer to your ward05
robe with exclusive hand – crafted pieces. Apart from the designer’s characteristic bags and backpacks, which come to vivid colors and unique materials, you will also find impressive sandals under the signature of Georgina Skalidi and collections of some other upcoming Greek designers. Extra tip: Ideal place to choose special gifts for your beloved at very good prices. Queen 39 Palaiologou str, Rethymno, Crete, Tel +30 2831024468 37 Potie str, Chania, Crete, Tel +30 2821028393 Fb: @queen.rethymno insta:@queen_the_shop 06
Queen is a women’s boutique for real queens of style. Here you will find selected pieces on clothing and accessories made by some of the most talented Greek designers and brands of high quality, at very good prices. Jewelry, bags, shoes and body care products - depending on the season - are available to complete your style and meet your needs to the ultimate detail! Ideal not only for refreshing your summer wardrobe but also for choosing a special gift for your beloved ones. Either you are in Rethymno, where this shop operates over 8 years; or in Chania a Queen is waiting for you.
LiFO Greek Islands
Kolymbari village, Chania. Tel +30 2824022243 www.kolymbarichania.com/argentina_restaurant, www.facebook.com/kolymbari.chania
Boheme
Sketi Glika
LiFO Choice Crete
Gelasakis Car Rental Sketi Glika 18 Isodion str.,Chania, Crete, Tel +302821 302801 www.facebook.com/sketiglika Its name means literally “simply sweet”, but the truth is there’s nothing simple in this lovely pastry shop at Chania. The colorful setting and the vintage decoration that bring to mind images of a Parisian patisserie create a place that it feels immediately like home. Konstantinos and his sister, Eirini, create pastries that are a real work of art, both in taste and presentation. Even if their creations are inspired by the French patisserie, some traditional Greek pastries have their 07
158–Crete
own special place in this cozy pastry shop. Located in one of the most picturesque alleys of the old town, is the perfect spot to relax in a hot busy day in Chania. Boheme 26-28 Chalidon St. Chania, Crete, Tel +30 28210 95955 www.boheme-chania.gr In the enchanting “Boheme” in the Old Town of Chania, the experience of “tender and serve” has reached new levels. Built by the Venetians, this establishment housed part of the cells for the St. Francis Monastery monks. The menu is full of excellent gastronomic suggestions for your breakfast, 08
brunch or dinner, with biological Cretan products. All dishes are spiced up with unique Cretan herbs. Last but not least, Boheme’s striking scenery with the magical courtyard consist the ideal surrounding to relish one of their awardwinning signature cocktails that have been representing our country in the most important global competitions! Gelasakis Car Rental Soudas Square, Chania, Crete, Tel.: +30-2821089065, www.rentacarchania.gr Crete is the biggest island in Greece and once you choose to spend your holidays 09
there, you will definitely need a car. There are long distances between the main cities you might like to visit and a car is necessary in order to go to as many beaches as you wish. Gelasakis Car Rental in Chania is a company that can offer you a car not only in Crete but everywhere in the country, thanks to its well organized network. It has a fleet of 200 vehicles in different categories, so you can choose one depending on your needs and budget. Last but not least, it provides full insurance and road assistance. You can make a reservation via telephone or electronically via www. rentacar-chania.gr.
LiFO Greek Islands
Summer 2017
Crete –159
Have a great
Summer
Balos
160–Crete
LiFO Greek Islands