Lifo Islands by Dyo Deka S.A.

2013

The islands guide for visitors

Contents Publisher

Stathis Tsagarousianos

Editor in Chief Michalis Michael

Articles Editor

Daphne Papadopoulou

Creative Director

Stathis Mitropoulos

Designers

Vanessa Ferle Kostas Stanellos

Illustrations Dreyk The Pirate

Photographers Spyros Staveris Nikos Katsaros Freddie F. Stathis Mamalakis Christina Arapakos

Coordination

02-09

84-85

10-35

86-91

36-50

92-93

51-59

94-97

60-69

98-109

70-73

110-111

74-75

112

Markella Andrikaki Xenia Stasinopoulou

Introduction

Text Correction

Mykonos

Dimitris Athinakis

Sales

Demetra Passomenou Ismini Vourdaha Kostas Mantas George Lykourgiotis Akis Michalopoulos Ioulia Valsami Spiros Apostolopoulos

Produced by

DYO DEKA EKDOTIKI SA 22 Voulis st. Syntagma Square Athens 105 61, Greece www.lifo.gr For queries or comments email us at info@lifo.gr

Santorini Sifnos Amorgos Antiparos Ios

Naxos Paros Skiathos Syros Serifos Off the beaten track Useful tips

76-83

Koufonisia

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

The Greek islands Travelling towards the Greek islands is an experience in itself. You arrive at Piraeus port with the train, panting and sweating with a large backpack pressing persistently against your spine. You walk at the nearby kiosk to buy a bottle of water and some savoury bites for the trip. The sun is burning hot and you see that the only thing separating you from your dream holiday is a busy, noisy two way street. On the opposite side of the street, is the quay where all the ferry boats dock. Yours is right there, its name written on the side. You cross the street in a rush and find yourself right outside your boat. The large metal hatchway is wide open, like a gapping mouth, devouring the small, fast-moving figures of the tourists. A young port official is blowing a whistle and gesturing wildly to the car drivers to move faster. Cars roll up the hatch and disappear into the belly of the beast. You check the time, take out your ticket and join the line of hopefuls wishing to escape the dreary city. You slowly make your way up the narrow stairways of the boat to reach the open deck, because that’s where the best views are – and that’s where you avoid the TV screens blasting Greek TV dramas. This is the important part: Your eyes scan the deck like a laser beam to find an appropriate shelter from the relentless sun and a potential spot to lay down for a nap, if needed. Needless to say, you avoid any groups of more 2

Introduction

than four teenagers who feel the need to share their music and intimate conversations with others. You zero in on a spot and make a run for it. Once seated, you inspect your mobile phone, drink some water and try to cool down. The deck of the boat is like a small United Nations with non-stop chatter echoing in half a dozen languages. At one corner, a couple of dogs are sniffing the small pools of water gathered from earlier maintenance work. There’s a lot of noise coming from below. Cars and trucks honk their horns; port police are shouting unintelligible orders. Suddenly, it seems there’s a light wind blowing, cooling your forehead. The boat is moving. You’re off to the Greek islands. As you watch the city disappear in the horizon, seagulls start circling the boat, hoping to secure a morsel of bread thrown by a sympathizing traveller. The small café at the back of the deck sells bucket loads of the ubiquitous frappé coffee and cappuccino freddo. A couple sitting next to the funnel are chewing oily pastry pies and two guys in front of them are taking pictures of each other with their mobiles. Though popular islands like Mykonos, Paros, Naxos and Santorini are served with frequent flights and boat services, others require a good deal of patience and a high spirit, as you may find yourself cruising through the blue waters of the Aegean for 8 or 14 hours. If you ever wanted to catch up on your reading, this is

the time. The uniqueness of the islands rests in their privileged location, their sheer variety, their trademark architecture with its blue-and-white paint and the unbeatable combination of dazzling sunlight, glinting blue sea and warm, golden sand. Inhabited since antiquity, they offer a variety of sights ranging from ancient Greek and Roman ruins, to crumbling Venetian fortresses and darkened volcanoes. Some are designated for wild times; others are as quiet as an upscale city suburb; some have beaches that could feature in a sun block commercial and others take you back in time. This is not an exhaustive guide of the Greek islands. With around 1,400 islands, 160-227 of which are said to be inhabited, a complete guide would look more like Encyclopaedia Britannica than this cute, portable magazine. The focus here is on the Cyclades, a wild mixture of light, stone and dryness, which constitutes the country’s most visited region. There’s also an entry from the Saronic Gulf – Aegina, one from the islands of North-eastern Aegean – Ikaria, and one from Sporades – Skiathos.

Getting to and from the islands There are three main ports which serve the islands included in this guide; Piraeus, Rafina and Lavrio. Piraeus serves: Aegina, Amorgos (both ports; Egiali and Katapola), Anafi, Donousa, Folegandros, Fourni, Ikaria (both ports; Agios Kirikos and Evdilos), Ios, Iraklia, Kimolos, Koufonisi, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Santorini, Schinousa. Piraeus is Greece’s biggest port and is separated in different gates marked with the letter E and numbered from 1-12, depending on your destination: Ε1 (Akti Vasssiliadi) departures to the Dodecanese islands: Rhodes, Patmos, Kalimnos, Kos, Leros, Karpathos, Tilos, Kassos. E2 (Akti Hetiona) departures to Crete, Dodecanese Islands, Chios, Mytilini (Lesvos). Ε3 (Agios Dionysios and Akti Kondyli) departures to Crete. E4 only for exit of vehicles. E5 entrance for pedestrians. Ε6 (Akti Kallimasiotti Argosaronikos) departures to Western Cyclades: Sifnos, Kythnos, Milos, Kimolos, Sikinos. This gate is for pedestrians only, with direct access from the metro station via a bridge. Ε7 (Karaiskaki square, Akti Tzelepi) departures to Eastern Cyclades: Syros, Paros, Tinos, Mykonos, Naxos, Amorgos, Santorini and Ios. E8 departures to the Saronic Islands: Aegina, Poros, Methana, Hydra and Spetses. Ε9 (Akti Miaouli) departures to Western Cyclades. E10 only for exit of vehicles. E11 & E12: Cruise terminal A & B Rafina serves: Amorgos (Katapola only), Ios, Koufonisi, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Santorini. Lavrio serves: Kimolos, Milos and Paros. Companies for ferry boat, fast boat and catamaran tickets: Blue Star Ferries (www.bluestarferries.com, Τel: +30 210 8919 800), Hellenic Seaways (www. hellenicseaways.gr, Τel: +30 210 4199 000, agency in Piraeus, Tel: +30 210 4121830), Aegean Speed Lines (www.aegeanspeedlines.gr, agency in Piraeus, Tel: +30 210 4125200), Sea Jets (www.seajets.gr, agency in 4

Introduction

Piraeus Tel: 210-4190233), Nova Ferries (www.novaferries.gr, Tel: +30 210 4126181, agency in Piraeus, Tel: +30 210 4126528). A very useful website is Book Ferries (www.bookferries.gr), where you can book tickets for all the Greek islands as well as Italy and Albania, but also offers the latest news in services (possible strikes, changes in routes), weather conditions and even has a Google map showing live marine traffic in the Aegean. For live information on arrivals and departures from all three ports, call Piraeus’s information line at 14541 and wait for the prompt to switch to English. After that, you will be put through to a telephone operator (service is charged). For air tickets: There are three daily flights to/from Athens with Aegean Airlines (www.aegeanair.com) and three to/from Athens with Olympic Air (www. olympicair.com). Check the airline’s websites as more return flights are added on Sundays. For live information on arrivals and departures check Athens International Airport’s website www.aia.gr Weather forecasts: Check the National Meteorological Service (www.hnms.gr) and click on the English button at the top right.

Cruise in style Island hopping is the standard way of visiting the islands and most people opt for the ferry option, but there’s a more stylish, convenient and easy way to travel around the Aegean and explore secluded caves and beaches. Aegeotissa Yachts is a family run company specialising in cruises around the Aegean with traditional wooden yachts. The company owns three boats; Aegeotissa I, Aegeotissa II and Corsaro del Santa Maura. The first two are a 34- and a 40-metrelong yacht respectively, which can accommodate 20-24 passengers in separate cabins, equipped with air condition and their own toilet. Aegeotissa I travels to all the islands (Cyclades, Sporades, Dodecanese and Ionian) and can be hired for 7 or 14 days. Aegiotissa II covers all the Greek islands as well as the coast of Turkey and the Peloponnese. The Corsaro is the newest in the small fleet and was built as a replica of 17th century pirate ships, causing many heads to turn when it appears at a harbour. Its itinerary focuses on the Ionian Islands and specifically to places where pirates used to travel and hide. The yachts (Aegiotissa I &II) cover one island per day. The day starts with breakfast on one of the decks and swimming at a secluded beach until the afternoon. This is followed by lunch on the boat and then passengers are shipped to the island on a dinghy boat to spend the rest of the day there. The atmosphere on the boat is relaxed and friendly, guests have the opportunity to lie on a sun lounger on one of the decks, eat at the dining room or have a drink at the bar. For more information on specific departure dates, cruises, cabin charters and prices, you can email Stephanie Areli at aegeotissa@gmail.com, or call at +30 26450 23983. They also have a website but at the time of writing it was only in Greek (www.aegeotissa.gr). Their Facebook page is www.facebook.com/pages/aegeotissayachts/123861574303407.

The islands guide 2013

Mykonos The most popular of Greece’s islands, Mykonos, needs no introductions, unless you’ve been living in a cave. Its reputation as a cosmopolitan destination began in the 1960s, when international celebrities started spending their days and nights at the island’s restaurants and bars. Locals have endless stories to share about this or that jet setter or movie star who was seen shopping and partying around Mykonos town. The island is a destination for party lovers, with top international DJs scheduling stints at the mega clubs of Paradise beach. The clichés you’ve heard about Mykonos are true. It’s cosmopolitan, picturesque and pricey, its nightlife is second to none and every other dirt road leads to a sandy beach with sparkly blue waters. It is also –to10

Mykonos

gether with Ibiza– one of the main gay friendly destinations in Europe. This open mentality means that people who come here feel free to express their sexuality and enjoy what the island has to offer. Having said this, travelling to Mykonos does not necessarily mean you have to forego peace and quiet. In fact, if you choose June or September for your holidays, or stick to the quieter parts of the island, you could be excused for thinking you’re in Amorgos or any other low profile destination. As a regular visitor commented, Mykonos combines different lifestyles. Depending where you stay, swim, shop, eat and drink, you may collect experiences worthy of a Hangover movie sequel, or a National Geographic nature documentary. It’s really up to you.

Accommodation: Your options in Mykonos are unlimited, so your real criterion is price. For budget accommodation: Mykonian Inn (Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890 23420, www.myconian-inn. com), Carbonaki Hotel (23, Panachrantou street, Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890 24124, www.carbonaki.gr), Anamar (Ftelia beach,Tel: +30 22890 71811, www. anamar.gr). Mid-range: Aeolos (Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890 25004, www.newaeoloshotel.com), Agios Ioannis Beach Resort (Agios Ioannis beach, Tel: +30 22890 28752, www. saintjohn.gr) and Marianna (Glastros, Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890 22072, www.marianna-mykonos. gr). Pricey: Cavo Tagoo (600 metres from Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890 20100, www.cavotagoo.gr), San Giorgio (Paraga beach, Tel: +30 22890 27474, www.sangiorgio-mykonos. com). Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Mykonos. Mykonos Airport is also served by two Greek carriers –Olympic Air and Aegean Air– and many international airlines fly directly to the island. The airport is situated 4 km from Mykonos Town and you can reach it by taxi. Check the “Getting to and from the islands” section for ferry websites.

Mykonos

The Windmills of Mykonos on the edge of Mykonos Town.

What to do

The boat will bring you at the new port, Troulos, and from there you can begin your exploration. The island has just two towns (the others are just seaside resorts); its namesake and Ano Mera with the main sights scattered around Mykonos Town. The labyrinth of alleys and back streets are con-

fusing at first, but once you get the hang of it you will be able to stroll down the street with the confidence of a local. Back-to-back boutiques line the main thoroughfares and are open all day for business. Four small museums are worth your visit: The Archaeological Museum (near the northern bus station, Tel: +30

22890 22325, open daily 08:30-15:00 except Mondays) houses items from the prehistoric to the late Hellenistic period, like pottery, vases and stelae dug out in uninhabited Rinia island. The Folklore Museum (close to Church of Paraportiani, Tel: +30 22890 22591, open daily from 16:3020:30 except Sundays)

Mykonos has just two towns (the others are just seaside resorts); its namesake and Ano Mera with the main sights scattered around Mykonos Town.

has a beautiful collection of embroidery, old wooden furniture, maps, pictures and more. Lena’s House (Tria Pigadia, Mykonos town, Tel: +30 22890 22390), an annexe of the Folklore Museum, presents the interior decoration of a typical 19th century middle class house. Next to Lena’s House is the Maritime Museum (Tel: +30 22890 22700, open daily 10:3013:00 and 18:30-21:00) which houses nautical instruments, vessels, maps, and coins from antiquity until recent times. At the western edge of the town stands Panagia Paraportiani (Kastro 16

Mykonos

district, Mykonos Town) an awkwardly shaped Byzantine church and the most photographed site on the island. It is made up of five smaller churches – four on the ground floor and one on top. The construction of first church started in 1425 and the whole building was completed in the 17th century.

Beaches

When it comes to beaches you will be spoilt for choice. If you crave attention and want to flirt, head to beaches like Paradise (real name Kalamopodi), Super Paradise

(real name Blidri) and Paraga, all of which are packed with half naked people, sun loungers and umbrellas. Parties here start as early as 4pm and alcohol runs plentiful at the numerous beach bars. The idea is to swim, eat and drink your cocktail without moving more than 100 metres from your seat. Super Paradise has its own website for info on upcoming events and tell-tale pictures (www.superparadise. com.gr). If dance music is your thing, don’t leave Paradise beach without joining revellers at Cavo Paradiso (300 metres up

the hill, Tel: +30 22890 27205) and Paradise Club Mykonos (also on the hill), two openair mega clubs, where you can party until the sun comes up. Regular super star DJs include Tiesto, David Morales, Paul Oakenfold, David Guetta, Armin Van Buuren and Bob Sincar. At the south, Psarou beach is a meeting point for Greek celebrities and people who are there mainly to show off their tan rather than swim. Women parade up and down the beach wearing little more than lip gloss and colourful Ray Bans. The beach’s popularity is

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

The island is full with beautifull beaches for all tastes. Whether you are a party animal or a naturist there is a fantastic beach for you in Mykonos!

Mykonos

such that, at high season, people call from Athens to book sun loungers and umbrellas. If the possibility of arguing with an over tanned, half-drunk, muscular man over a sun lounger is not your idea of fun, head towards the quieter beaches at the north which have been spared the onslaught of lined umbrellas and blasting techno music. Unspoiled Ftelia beach is popular with wind surfers because its northern exposure ensures strong winds almost all year round. Every year, the island hosts the Wave Tour, an international windsurfing games which attract all the big names in the sport. The seclusion you will enjoy here means itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good spot to go skinny dipping and bring your dog (Greeks are not too keen on seeing dogs swim

next to their kids). Agios Sostis is also popular with nudists, but cannot be reached by bus, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best to rent a car or motorcycle. For even more privacy, head to Fokos, or Kapari (which is right next to it), two beaches with no facilities, which can be reached with your own transport. Fokos taverna (Tel: +30 6945 828561, open from 13:00-19:00) on the namesake beach deserves a special mention for its excellent Mediterranean food. The best way to find it is, after Ano Mera, to follow signs to Fokos and take it from there. Kalo Livadi is an organised beach, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quieter than the others and is thus preferred by families. Agios Ioannis, more famous as the backdrop for the 1980s movie Shirley Valentine, is a relatively quiet beach

with facilities for snorkelling and a great tavern on site.

Activities

Of course, no beach is complete without some sporting facilities, and in Mykonos you will find plenty on most organised beaches (Kalafatis, Elia, Platis Yialos). There’s skiing, windsurfing, kite surfing, jet-skiing, parasailing, scuba diving and any other water sport you can imagine. For dry sports –until you start sweating– there are several tennis courts in Mykonos Town which can be rented for a game, unless your hotel has a court. For information, try tennis coach Vaida Martinkute (mobile: +30 6976 795747, +30 6972 663434, email: vaida_martin@yahoo. com). Two tennis courts

Mykonos

The island is a destination for party lovers, with top international DJs scheduling stints at the mega clubs of Paradise beach.

(one hard court, one with artificial grass) are rented out between 8am and 11pm at Mykonos tennis club at Drafaki area, 200 metres out of the main town (Mobile: +30 6974 4667678, email: niktennismyk@yahoo. gr). A different kind of ball game is played at

Big Boys Park, which you can rent out for a paintball game (Ftelia, for reservations call: +30 22890 25544, +30 6981 744004, email: bigboyspark@gmail.com). There’s even a company to arrange horseback riding (the only reason why there’s no elephant riding

is because bringing such a mammal to Mykonos would be a bureaucratic nightmare). Mykonos Horseland (Ano Mera, Freephones: +30 6957 407875, +30 6945 778962, www. horseland.gr) organises 1-5-hour horse riding tours around Mykonos

and some beaches, depending on your wishes. Prices range from 50 euros per person for the one-hour tour to 130 euros for the five-hour tour. For more experienced riders, the company offers longer riding tours which include stop-overs for a swim, or lunch (price 150 euros). If you’re a sucker for clichés you may choose the sunset ride for two, which comes complete with picnic at the beach (300-400 euros).

and of course beachwear. Concept boutiques like The Jars of Brands (43 Kalogera street, Mykonos Town, Tel: +03 22890 7895) sell clothes and apparel from up-andcoming designers. For jewellery, head to Minas Studio (Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890 27320) for one of his iconic moulded necklaces. If you didn’t have time to complete your beauty regimen back home, don’t worry. Fancy ZS Golden Spa (Ano Mera, Tel: +30 22890 23501)

Shopping

offers a long list of face treatments, depilation and of course manicure and pedicure.

Mykonos is a sartorialist heaven. This is the only island for which women pack high heels. Any new trend set abroad is bound to be tried out here, so all the crazy shopping you did back home will pay off. Hipsters and fashionistas compete for attention at Matoyannia in the afternoon, the town’s main thoroughfare, while middle-aged, well-heeled couples stroll around town in search of the best upscale restaurant. If you’re itching to use your credit card you will have no trouble doing so in one of the big-name luxury brands who have set up shop in town. There are also shops selling local delicacies, Greek herbs, natural cosmetics, leather sandals 22

Mykonos

Taste

You will be spoilt for choice when it comes to food as this is one of the few islands which can boast a variety of restaurants with international cuisine. Apart from the usual tavernas serving traditional fare, you may also try Italian, Chinese, Japanese and even Argentinian food while in town. Many restaurants offer a fusion of Greek cuisine with international favourites. Most restaurants are located in Mykonos Town and the following list is only indicative of the type of food you may find. For Greek food,

choose the family run tavern Apostolis (Ano Mera square, Tel: +30 22890 71760), which serves honest home-made specialties like stuffed vegetables, cod with skordalia (garlic puree), grilled sausage and juicy pork chops at reasonable prices. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re trying so save money on food, then

Mykonos

souvlakia is your best option and some of the best can be found at Kalamakia (Ano Mera, Tel: +30 22890 71740). The place has the added advantage of having a playground at the back to keep the kids busy. For fresh fish and stylish atmosphere al fresco, go to Sea Satin Market (Harbor at the

windmills, near the Metropolis Cathedral, Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890 24676) with tables right on the seaside. The best dish is the grilled fish and veggies served on a large, flat glass plate supported on four cups. Those who want to splash out should head to Uno Con Carne (Panach-

ra, Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890 24020), an Argentinian steak house which serves, among others, hamburgers and steaks with Black Angus beef. The large venue also houses an oyster bar with several clam, scallop and lobster dishes. If you prefer some Italian flavours, Casa di Giorgio (1, Mitropoleos, Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 6932 561998) is there with its three chefs making the freshest thin crust pizzas and the best pasta in town. Interni restaurant and bar (Matoyiannia, Tel: +30 22890 26333) is a gorgeous open garden inspired and designed by renowned designer Paola Navone, combined with a personal touch from owner Nikos Varveris. It serves Mediterranean dishes and cocktails at the bar.

While in Mykonos visit Delos, the second most important ancient sanctuary in Greece after Delphi.

Delos

Your sightseeing wouldn’t be complete without a day trip to Delos, where excavations have uncovered the second most important ancient sanctuary in Greece after Delphi,

Mykonos

dedicated mainly to god Apollo. The uninhabited island is 3.5 km off the coast of Mykonos and is included in UNESCO’s World Heritage list. According to the myth, the island is the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis,

two of god Zeus’s many –illegitimate– children. The site has five focal points: the maritime quarter, the theatre, the temples of Apollo, the lion terrace and the house of Dionysos. Boats leave daily at 9, 10 and 11am

from the pier at the west side of the harbour, right behind the little church of Agios Nikolaos. The boat trip takes about 30 minutes. Boats return at 12:15, 13:30 and 3pm. Boat trips to Delos are also organized from

Gay Mykonos

Platys Gialos and Paranga beach and you can book a tour guide on the spot. The site is closed on Mondays. When the sun goes down, there’s no better place to watch the sunset than Little Venice, whose scenic houses and windmills featured in the

Mykonos

movie Bourne Identity. All the bars there are very touristy and the quality of service and drinks will vary, so look at what is being served before you sit. Katerina’s Bar (Agion Anargiron street, Little Venice, +30 22890 23804) is a safe choice and so is Montparnasse

(24 Agion Anargiron street, Little Venice, Tel: +30 22890 23719), the piano bar with great views of the windmills. Later on, the fun moves back to Hora, where throngs of tanned revellers show off their dance skills in stylish bars and around the alleys.

The gay scene includes classic bars like Porta Bar (Ionni Voinovich street, +30 22890 27807) the nights’ first meeting point and Pierro’s (Matoyianni Street, Tel: +30 22890 22177). For more action, head to Jacky O’ (close to Paraportiani, Tel: +30 22890 79167) where happenings and drag shows are on the daily agenda. Babylon (right next to Jacky O’, Tel: +30 22890 25152) is a newer dance club with heavy beats and drag shows. Diva (Little Venice, Tel: +30 22890 27271) may seem like a quieter bar at first, but things turn much livelier later in the night. For more information on gay and gay friendly venues, check www. gaymykonos.gr .

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The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Lapis

Workshop Sam

Optique Boutique

Art Tattoo Mykonos

The jars of Brands

LifO e choincos Myko

Ekaterini Jewellery DesignÂ Matoyianni, Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890 78876, facebook: Ekaterini Jewellery Design The shop sells clothes from designer Ekaterini which are produced in Greece, but also has a wide range of foreign brands. The youthful design and great value for money are present in the hottest trends in accessories like earrings, necklaces, colourful watches etc. 01

Lapis 14, M. Mavrogeni

Mykonos

Street. Myconos Town Tel: +30 22890 24255 One of the best jewellery stores in Mykonos with high quality jewelleries and precious stones. Workshop Sam Lakka, Agios Athanasios, Mykonos. Tel: +30 22890 78918 A workshop of handmade jewellery of high quality, made with a lot of attention. 03

Optique Boutique 17, Agiou Gerasimou street, Mykonos. Tel: +30 22890 77231 The store in Pireaus has 04

now opened in Mykonos as well, in a beautiful space with Cycladic decoration. In the brand new store you will find unique collections of international brands like Alexander McQueen, Mykita etc. Art Tattoo Mykonos Fabrica, Tel: +30 22890 77035, facebook: arttattoomykonos One of the best tattoo studios in Mykonos. The tattoo is painted in sterile, rooms by experienced and talented staff, who can create any designs you have in mind. 05

The jars of Brands Mykomos Town. Tel: +30 22890 78955 A store housing international brands and unique styles and designs. This year, a new room has opened its doors right next to the old store, where you will find brands likeÂ Mi-ro, Nizal Fashion, Ratt, Blue de Genes etc. 06

Mykonos accommodation centre 10, Enoplon Dinameon street (upper floor) end of Matoyianni Street. 07

Heel

Mykonos accommodation centre

Guzel Club

Adva Beach Bar & Restaurant

Tel: +30 22890 23160, 22890 23408, 22890 28160 Α reservation and travel agency with the largest choice of quality hotels and furnished apartments with private pools. The centre provides all travel services, booking for surrounding islands, Athens and the rest of Greece as well as ticketing for domestic and international airlines. Heel Panagia Panahras, Mykonos Town. Tel: +30 22890 77166, 08

Sotris

eshop: www.heel.gr A remarkable and enthusiastic clothes workshop which uses fashion as a means of expression. Its philosophy is based on change, creation and ecology. The clothes are designed in Greece in a way that respects the environment and the city. Guzel Club One of the oldest and best-known clubs on the island. It is difficult to find someone who has travelled to Mykonos and has not passed through its doors. The beautiful summer 09

atmosphere and good music make it special. Adva Beach Bar & Restaurant Panormos. Tel: +30 22890 23950, www.adva-mykonos.com It is located in Panormos, at the northern part of Mykonos. An all-day venue with comfortable sun loungers and tables next to the sea where you can enjoy a swim together with a good coffee, great cocktails and delicious food made of Greek ingredients. 10

Sotris Super Paradise Jakkie o’ & 12 Matoyianni str., www.facebook.com/sotrisshop Sotris has landed in Mykonos with a womens’store in Matoyiania in collaboration with Topshop and another super concept store in Super Paradise inside Jackie O’ club with avant guard men’s and women’s brands. 11

Galleraki cocktail bar Skarpa, Tel: +30 22890 27188, galleraki.gr The bar is located in the 12

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Amades

Allure

Fetish Ink tattoo Mykonos

Rock ‘n’ roll

LifO e choincos Myko

heart of Little Venice, right next to the sea. It’s a historic cocktail bar housed in a traditional Cycladic residence, where you can drink coffee during the day and refreshing cocktails in the evening. Allure Matoyianni street, Tel: +30 22890 26037, Ag. Efthimiou street, 22890 22188, Water front, Tel: +30 2289022427, www. mykonos-jewelry.com Since 1990 their craftsmen create daily exquisite handmade jewellery with the finest materials. In the 13

Mykonos

store you will find a huge variety of more than 9,000 jewelleries and watches to choose from. Amades 2, Κambani street, Αgia Kyriaki, Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890 78801, www.facebook. com/pages/Amades A small, playful taverna with a friendly atmosphere, very close to Mykonos’s Cataract. The cuisine is local and other regional Greek recipes served to the background of traditional island folk songs and rebetika. 14

Rock ‘n’ roll Matoyianni, Tel: +30 22890 78270 One of Athens’ legendary venues has in the last few years found a second roof in Mykonos. It’s a cosmopolitan hang-out venue with Cycladic architectural and decorative elements, strong music, perfect drinks and non-stop entertainment. 15

Fetish Ink Tattoo Mykonos Tel: +30 22890 77236, www.facebook.com/fetisinktattoo.mykonos The talented and experi16

enced tattoo artists which can satisfy every demand in clean, sterilised, private rooms and the exotic body piercing are only some of the services which make Fetish Ink stands out among other tattoo studios. Koursaros Meletopoulou, Mykonos Town, Tel: +30 22890-78140, www.koursarosmykonos.gr In wonderful, atmospheric scenery which resembles a pirate ship, the restaurant Koursaros promises an unforgettable gastronomic 17

Koursaros

Lights on

Andronikos hotel

Melivia Boutique

experience with Mediterranean and Greek cuisine and an emphasis on fresh fish and seafood. Lights on Goumenio, Tel: +306948238286, www.lights-on.gr At one of the most scenic alleys of the island, at Goumenio, the young artist Thana Samiotaki light sources and materials like wool to create original and elaborate works of art which can decorate any space. 18

Melivia Boutique 26, Kalogera street,

Tel: +3022890 27827, www.facebook.com/melivia.boutique Located in an old mansion in one of the busiest alleys of Mykonos, boutique Melivia offers complete outfits to impress with your look from morning till night. Here you will find Fabiana Filippi, Roberto Collina, Marisa Padovan, the French swimsuits Eres with their amazing fit, Flavia Padovan, Chloe Mare, Kristina Ti and wonderful sandals from Emanuela Caruso and Mystique.

Andronikos hotel Drafaki. Tel: +30 22890-24231, www.andronikos.gr A luxury, boutique hotel with views of the Aegean Sea. Andronikos hotel has rooms with excellent aesthetics, flawless, incomparable design and unique facilities to enjoy your food like the restaurant Lady Finger Gree and the popular Orange Blue Bar. 20

+3022890 25747, www.actipis.com Since 2002 artist Spyros Aktipis has always been inspired from the natural beauty of sea pebbles to create unique handmade jewellery which he combines with materials like silver, gold, metal, leather etc.

Actipis- Sea Pebble Jewellery ﾎ組. Spyridonos & Ag. Annis str., Tel: 21

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Santorini In 1956, when Greece was still struggling to recover from the devastation of the Second World War, a big earthquake hit the island (thanks Earth). Fifty six people were killed and hundreds were injured in what was the largest earthquake to hit Europe in the 20th century. With their houses and livelihoods reduced to rubble, locals abandoned the island in waves and travelled to Athens to start anew. At that time, anyone with moderate savings could have bought half the island as people were eager to be rid of any property, viewed then as worthless. A lot has changed since then. Santorini emerged from oblivion in the 1970s with the advent of tourism and the development of modern transportation, to become one of the hottest travel destinations in the world. 36

Santorini

What to do

Athinios, the busy port of Santorini, is not much to look at, but as soon as you start ascending the narrow winding road that leads to Fira, you are made aware of the raw beauty of the island that has mesmerised visitors for decades. Santorini is an active volcano. It last erupted in 1950 on Nea Kameni, the small island formed from past eruptions. Don’t worry though; chances of it erupting while you’re passing the summer are extremely thin. The name Santorini was given to the island by the Franks who run the island in the 13th century in honour of Saint Irene and it has stuck until today, though the official name is Thera.

Fira, the main town, is picturesque, but has not escaped the side effects of mass tourism. Throngs of tourists right off the cruise ships fill up the narrow paths, cars are parked everywhere, tacky souvenir shops interchange with dated jewellery stores, signs pop up arrogantly like mushrooms in every street corner and a few unsightly buildings that look out of place. There are some bright spots though. Take a seat at Franco’s bar (Tel: +30 22860 24428), an island institution, where you have your first panoramic view of the 18 km long caldera, stretching like a crescent moon from Akrotiri to Cape Agios Nikolaos at the north. Right and left Fira town is spread out with whitewashed houses and

churches with brilliant blue cupolas. At the centre of the lagoon is Nea Kameni and further out the inhabited island of Thirasia. Franco’s is the perfect place to sip the first aperitif of the evening, while listening to an aria by Maria Callas and contemplating on the age-old popular legend on whether Santorini is indeed the lost Atlantis.

Must-sees

Sightseeing should begin at Akrotiri (Tel: +30 22860 81366, open TueSun) where excavations in 1967 brought to light the best known Minoan site outside of Crete. The elaborate complexes of multi-level buildings, the streets, objects and walls have been well preserved as they were buried under the ashes of the huge eruption which

Santorini

The 18 km long caldera, stretching like a crescent moon from Akrotiri to Cape Agios Nikolaos at the north.

destroyed the island in the 17 century BC. The impressive frescoes from Akrotiri can be found at the Museum of Prehistoric Thira at Fira (Tel: +30 22860 22217, open Tue-Sun). The Archaeological Museum (Fira, Tel:+30 22860 22217, open Tue-Sun) exhibits

sculptures and inscriptions from the Roman times as well as some objects from Akrotiri. Naos Episkopis Thiras (south of village Mesa Gonia) is an important Byzantine church built in the 11th century by emperor Alexios Komninos. The small Folklore Mu-

seum of Manolis Lignos (Kontohori, Fira, Tel: 22860 22792) houses an old canava (wine cellar) and tools of the wine business. Do not miss the chance to walk on dark solid lava and swimming in hot springs by joining one of the daily boat trips to Palia and Nea Kameni, the volcanic islands in the middle of the caldera, and bigger Thirasia. Boats leave from Yalos –Santorini’s old port–Athinios –the new port– and Ammoudi. Santorini also has a thriving art scene with Greek and foreign artists exhibiting their work in various venues around the island. Art Space in Exo Gonia (open daily from 11am to sunset, Tel: +30 22860 32774) exhibits in its carved chambers contemporary art from

new and established artists. Mati art gallery (Fira, Orthodox Cathedral plateau, Tel:+30 22860 23814) showcases the work of visual artist Yorgos Kypris.

Beaches

Walk on dark solid lava and swimming in hot springs by joining one of the boat trips to Palia and Nea Kameni, the volcanic islands in the middle of the caldera.

Many people argue Santorini doesn’t have any decent beaches. That’s not true. Because of its unique geology, Santorini has unusual beaches which are completely different from each other. Most of them are quite busy and the best time to enjoy them is to get there before noon. Perissa is a popular long beach with fine, black, volcanic sand and lounge chairs for everyone. There are many water sports on offer and the village has plenty of tavernas for an afternoon snack. Perivolos is the natural continuation of Perissa and is similarly

organised with umbrellas, beach bars and lots of celebrity viewings. The beautiful limestone formations found in Vlihada beach create a lunar landscape where you are able to escape the sun loungers by simply walking past them. Kamari beach is probably the most famous beach and is similarly geared towards pleasing tourists with beach bars and water sports. Lying on your sun lounger, you will probably see many small airplanes flying really low over the water; that’s because the airport runway starts right after the village. Two more beaches on the south-western coast which are really worth a mention: Kokkini Paralia (red beach), right next to the archaeological site of Akrotiri, is a narrow beach spread at the base of steep brick

SANTORINI

Santorini

red rocks. It is reachable by boat from Akrotiri. Aspri Paralia (white beach) has, as you may guess, white sand made of pulverized limestone and to get there you must hop on a boat. At the north, Katharos beach is blissfully quiet, though this is slowly changing. To get there, drive toards Ammoudi port and follow the signs. There’s an amazing bar squeezed in the rocks overlooking the beach which is an ideal location to enjoy that famous sunset without the crowds of Oia and Fira. Baxedes beach at the north-east is recommended for families as the waters are shallow – an exception in Santorini. Driving towards the east you will find Monolithos and Karterados, both with black pebbles and sand, with Monolithos being more popular.

Santorini

Sunset in Santorini still remains one of the highlights ofthe island.

Where to eat If you like gourmet food, this is your lucky year. Santorini has launched the “Year of Gastronomy” for 2013, offering many events to celebrate local produce and allow visitors to taste local cuisine. There are plenty of reasons to support such initiative on the

island. The volcanic earth has helped Santorini develop unique agricultural products which have dominated the eclectic culinary scene for many years. The local waterless small tomatoes (like cherry tomatoes) have an amazing full flavour and colour and the same goes for the local white aubergine. Fava beans from Santorini are so

good they were assigned the PDO tag (Protected Designation of Origin). The island also has a sophisticated wine industry which produces local varieties like Asyrtiko and the sweet Vinsanto. The strong winds have forced producers to cultivate vines by coiling them up, while the volcanic soil gives the grapes a unique flavour. Wine tasting tours are organised by local wineries. Some of them are Sigalas (between Oia and Vourvoulos, Tel: +30 22860 71644), Santo Wines (Pyrgos, Tel: +30 22860 22596), a cooperative of wine producers, Antoniou Winery (Megalohori, Tel: +30 22860 23557) and Canava Roussos (Mesa Gonia, Episkopi, Tel: +30 22860 31349). Eating in Santorini can really be hit or miss. Many tavernas on the

caldera have very poor quality of food because they rely on their location to attract visitors instead of working on a decent menu. Beware of venues with too many signs and waiters prodding you to go in. Good restaurants do not need that kind of advertising. Lava (Tel: +30 22860 81776) in Perissa offers island specials cooked in the oven at reasonable prices. Kallisti (Pyrgos, Tel: +30 22860 34108) is well known for its modern renditions of local dishes. In Oia, try Skala (+30 22860 71562), a cheap eatery with well-cooked Greek specialties. Fresh fish and other ancillaries from the sea are expertly cooked or grilled at Psaraki (Vlyhada, Tel: +30 22860 82783). Fashions come and go in the culinary world of Santorini, but some restaurants have an enduring value which has earned them a place in the country’s top restaurants. Selene (Pirgos, Tel: +30 22860 22249) has been breaking ground in the culinary scene since 1986, when it first opened in Fira. In its new location, Selene has two different spaces; one with the classic menu offering gourmet specialties like langoustines in zucchini flowers and risotto, and Selene meze & wine, which operates as a taverna, wine bar, café and delicatessen. For the Year of Gastronomy, the restaurant is organising wine tastings and other initiatives to promote local produce.

Sunset

Life on the volcano passes in style and expectation. After spending a day at the beach, the same question is raised in people’s minds: where will they watch the sunset 46

Santorini

things into a hyposcafo (room dug into the rock) where colourful cocktails are served. For a more loungy atmosphere head to Kira Thira (Fira, Tel: +30 22860 22770), an old bar playing jazz and ethnic music. Casablanca Soul (Fira, Tel: +30 22860 27188) fills up after midnight with house beats and deep soul played by guest DJs.

Accommodation: It is obvious that the best place to stay in Santorini is at any hotel on the side of the caldera, but it will cost you. The view from White (Imerovigli, Tel: +30 22860 25257, www.whitesantorini.gr) is well worth your money if you have around 280 euros to spare per night (prices rise depending on the room type and dates). For a cheaper option, Keti Hotel (Fira, +30 22860 22324, 90 euros for a double, www.hotelketi.gr) offers clean, pretty rooms overlooking the caldera. At Firostefani, Kafieris (Tel: +30 22860 22059, www. kafierisapartments.gr) rents out apartments on the cliff at reasonable prices. Stelios Place (Perissa, Tel: +30 22860 81860, about 60 euros for a double, www. steliosplace.com) has spacious rooms and a lovely pool outside. Santorini is very often listed as one of the most beautiful places in the world.

from? On this contest, Fira, Oia, Imerovigli and Firostefani win over the other villages hands down. If you want to find a seat in one of the restaurants or bars lining the cliff, you have to be there at least two hours before the sun sets, as privileged seats –inside and outside the bars– fill up early. Otherwise, you can join the dozens of people who crouch

on white roofs, empty yards and other available surfaces to watch the sun disappear behind the horizon. When the sun goes down and the oppressive heat recedes, it is the perfect time to get a drink. Fira’s nightlife is more lively, while Oia is best for a quiet night out. Apart from Franco’s, the Belair Lounge (Fira, Tel: +30 22860 28320) gathers 30 and 40 some-

Getting there: All major ferry companies offer several daily routes to Santorini. Santorini Airport is also served by two Greek carriers –Olympic Air and Aegean Air– and many international airlines fly directly to the island. Having said this, we believe Santorini should be approached by boat. The experience of cruising between the volcanic islets as you approach Santorini and the impact of that first view of the caldera from below is a must.

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Sea Side Notos Restaurant

Yazz

LifO e ic cho i o nt rin Sa

Sea Side Notos Restaurant Agios Georgios beach, Perivolos, Tel: +30 22860 82801 If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for a restaurant on the beach with gourmet cuisine and a lounge bar, you will find it at Perivolos in Santorini. The chef has created a menu based on the Mediterranean cuisine with a few tropical elements. After your dinner, visit the bar to try the original cocktails and enjoy ethnic and lounge music. 01

Yazz Perissa beach, Santorini, Tel: +30 22860 81235 A beach bar-restaurant you can choose for breakfast; you may try the fresh fruit juices and smoothies made of tropical fruits or to some traditional Greek recipes. In the evening, it becomes the absolute beach bar. Sun loungers on the beach, tropical cocktails and music nights with live bands or DJs complete the ideal scenery. 02

Ammos

Sirocco

Ammos Perivolos beach, Tel: +30 22860 81819, facebook.com/pages/AmmosRestaurant-Santorini An atmospheric restaurant right in the centre of Perivolos beach with an exceptional view and good food. In its menu you will find Mediterranean options and flavours adjusted to the scents of Santoriniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s earth and sea. 03

Suites of the Gods & Demilmar restaurant Beach Bar

Sirocco Perissa beach, Tel: +30 22860 83020 One of the oldest restaurants in Santorini. It is famous for its fluffy pizza and the menu which includes Greek and Italian flavours. It also has a fixed menu. 04

Suites of the Gods & Demilmar restaurant Beach Bar Perissa beach, Caldera Megalochori, Tel: +30 22860 28856, +30 22860 85070 www.suitesofthegods.com A hotel complex which, apart from a fabulous view of the endless Aegean blue, offers a large range of very high quality services and 05

Santorini

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Anemos Beach Lounge Hotel

Tranquilo

Santorini Heritage Villas

Μezzo hotel and restaurant

Cine Kamari

LifO e chooircini Sant

facilities. Among them, the Delmimar restaurant beach bar stands out - a unique venue on the beach with a self service buffet, a restaurant and an all-day cocktail bar. Books & Style Fira, Tel: +30 22860 24510 A store of good taste and aesthetics, a meeting point for the booklovers of Santorini. In here you will find an updated library with many titles which is organised by Eleftherouthakis bookshop. 06

Tranquilo Perissa beach, 2286 085230, facebook. com/TranquiloSantoriniPerissa Relaxed beach bar on Perissa Beach, with flawless 07

Santorini

food, great cocktails and comfortable loungers. Good music and the live music is a plus. Anemos Beach Lounge Hotel Perivolos, Tel: +30 22860 82220, www.anemosbeachhotel. com Set up in Perivolos, one of the most impressive and beautiful beaches of Santorini, Anemos Beach Lounge Hotel is famous for its relaxed atmosphere, comfortable sun loungers and friendly atmosphere created by the staff. The beautiful venue is offered for weddings and social activities. 08

Santorini Heritage Villas Megalohori, Tel: +30 6994 102450 09

In the lesser known but well preserved village of Megalohori are located two of the most beautiful mansions of the island. Mansion Kyani and Mansion Sophia, which belonged to one of the richest families in the village, are today offered to rent by the company Santorini Heritage Villas & Mansions. Cine Kamari Kamari, Tel: +30 2286033452, www.cinekamari.gr The open air cinema Kamari is located at the entrance of Kamari village on the main road to Fira town, with a bus station just across the cinema entrance. It is open from June until the first days of October. The entrance fee is 7 euros. There’s a full bar with cocktails (try 10

our strawberry Daiquiri and Mojito!), local beer and wine, refreshments, ice cream and snacks. Mezzo Hotel and Restaurant Imerovigli, Tel: +30 2286 021874, www.facebook. com/MezzoHotelRestaurant In Imerovigli, in the area of Skaros, is the hotel and restaurant Μezzo, offering a view over the Venetian castle. It is an old mansion of traditional Cycladic architecture, built inside the rock in 1891 and was renovated in 1979, when it was transformed into a traditional hotel. The restaurant is spread out on three levels. Its menu includes selections of Greek and local cuisine, using a choice of raw ingredients from local producers. 11

Sifnos If pirates roamed the Aegean today and had a treasure map with X marking the spot, that X would be Sifnos. The treasures of Sifnos are revealed to the traveller one by one. It’s the quaint village of Exabelos where time has stopped, the fresh seafood in Herronisos, the flat rocks from which you dive in the clear blue sea in Chrisopigi, the eclectic stores in Apollonia. The island is also the birthplace of Greece’s first famous chef, Nikolaos Tselementes, who authored the first complete cookbook on Greek and French classic recipes. The cookbook became a

huge success and was reprinted at least 15 times with an overused copy found in almost every household. Modern Sifnians have embraced this heritage and pay attention to what is being served on the table. Sifnos’s success has been its ability to develop a healthy local tourism industry without altering the character of the island and its low-key charm. So low key, that the annual summer arrival a former Greek Prime Minister to the island goes largely unnoticed. Sifnians seem keen to keep things running this way, by focusing on quality and not quantity. The LifO Islands Guide 2013

What to do

Entering the rocky harbour of the island, the visitor has the first view of Kamares, the second busiest village after the capital and main town, Apollonia. The village extends from one end of the harbour to the other with several grocery stores, bakeries and tavernas lining its sea shore. The sandy beach in the middle of the harbour is Agia Marina, which gathers mostly families and people playing beach rackets ferociously. The waters are clean and shallow, making them ideal for kids, while adults can find respite and a cold fruit juice on the wooden deck of Isalos café-restaurant (Tel: +30 22840 33716). Isalos is a relaxed all-day venue right on the beach serving Greek food with a modern note and one of the best places to watch the sun disappear behind the horizon. In Kamares you will find Simos taverna (Tel: +30 22840 32353), your necessary lunch break. Simos’ highlights include his hearty chickpea soup (revithada, a Sifnos specialty), freshly made mousaka and his other oven cooked dishes. For a different view of the harbour, head to far left edge of the whitewashed houses of Agia Marina to find Argiris taverna (Tel: +30 22840 32352) whose grilled meat and good service have won him a loyal clientele. Back in Kamares, the Italian L’Osteria Da Claudio (Tel: +30 22840 31671, open from 18:00-01:00, reservations preferred) is an elegant culinary surprise where Claudio cooks real Italian specials on a small terrace. The old bakery of Venios (Kamares, Tel: +30 22840 33650) sells the cheese pies and sweet 52

Sifnos

Sifnos is beautifull, chic and serene place. An ideal place for relaxing holidays, with good food, fantastic architecture and places to visit.

cream pies (bougatsa) you will need to carry with you on your walks around the island. With a path network of about 200 kilometres, Sifnos is perfect for hiking. The best season to hike is spring and autumn when the pastures are greener and wildflowers are in full bloom, but even in the summer Sifnos’s inland is still enchanting. The area which covers about 20 square kilometres and stretches from Profitis Ilias Mountain –where the namesake monastery stands– all the way to the western shores of the island was integrated into the European Network of Natural Protected Areas “Natura 2000”. Walking around the area, the visitor sees the dry stone walls built by islanders to limit ground erosion and define property boundaries, white pigeon houses, olive trees, herb bushes, wells, monasteries and churches, birds and small animals. The Ancient citadel of Agios Andreas

(Tel: +30 22840 31488, open daily 08:30-15:00, except Mondays), the most important archaeological site of Sifnos, was first discovered at the end of the 19th century and proved the area was inhabited from Mycenaean times. The well preserved 10-acre citadel dominating the top of the hill shed light into the life, activities and beliefs of the people who inhabited the area. Apart from its historic significance, the area offers panoramic vistas of the island and the villages of Apollonia, Ano Petali and Artemonas. At the edge of the citadel stands the small church of Agios Andreas. The site is situated on the way to Vathi beach and can be reached by car. After you pass the 16th century Monastery of Firogia, turn right towards the hill of Agios Andreas.

Where to eat The most popular beach is Platis Yalos, a long

stretch of sand populated with couples and families. The village is fully organised with cafés, grocery stores, rooms to let and tourist agencies. The trendy beach café and bar Palmira (Tel: +30 22840 71283) is where youngsters go for light snacks and refreshing fruit juices during the day. Later on, the music is turned up and cocktails are served to people enjoying the sea view. Nearby, the Italian restaurant Mamma Mia (Tel: +30 22840 71219 / a second one exists in Apollonia– Tel: +30 22840 33086), owned by an Italian family, specialises in homemade pasta, pizzas, carpaccio and yummy buffalo mozzarella brought straight from Italy. For good old Greek cuisine, go to To Steki (Tel: +30 22840 71215) for a taste of its mastelo (goat with potatoes and cheese served in a ceramic bowl) and the excellent caper salad. Apart from good food, Sifnos is also known for its high quality of pottery and there are several workshops in Vathi, the village where the art originates. At the family business of Atsonios (Tsopos beach at Vathi, Tel: +30 22840 71119, www.ceramicartatsonios. gr) Mr Atsoniou makes beautiful flower vases, mugs and bottles from clay, painted with eco paints. Here you may also buy the clay cooking pot used throughout the island to make the famous revithatha (chickpea soup). The workshop is open to visitors who are interested in seeing how humble clay turns into a beautiful and useful object. Vathi is also a popular beach with quiet waters and small sail boats anchored around the cove. A good eatery right on the beach is To

path from Kastro which leads to the mysterious Church of Eptamartires and from there another path on the left leads to the diving area.

Life in Sifnos

Hire a car or a motorcycle and take some time to go around the island. You will be spoiled for choice when it comes to impressive scenery.

Tsikali (Tel: +30 22840 71150) serving Sifnian staples like mastelo and their own mizithra cheese (fresh, soft cheese) served with capers and olive oil. The most impressive location to swim is Chrisopigi, which has taken its name from the small, whitewashed church standing on a rocky peninsula. This peninsula separates Chrisopigi in two coves; the one on the left –as you face the monastery– forms a small beach called Apokofto with plenty of tamarisks for shade and two excellent tavernas waiting for you at the back. On the cove on the right is the very small, pebbled Saoures, favoured by those who want more privacy. This is also the only known beach in Sifnos where you might see nudists. The third spot for swimming is the flat rocks on the right side of the peninsula, where you will see people diving off the smooth rocks into the deep blue sea. The picture perfect location of the church has made it an ideal wedding location. All too often swimmers climbing up the rocks in the afternoon and entering the yard of Chriso54

Sifnos

pigi dazed by the sun, find themselves next to elegantly dressed guests who are waiting for the bride. The two excellent tavernas in Apokofto are Lembesis (Tel: +22840 71295) who serves the island specialty, chickpea balls and fried small shrimp, known as simiako garithaki, with plenty of house wine and a beautiful view of Chrisopigi. Further down the beach is Tsapis (Tel: +30 22840 71272) who has tables under the pines and specialises in casserole dishes. To go off the beaten path, drive 15 kilometres to Herronissos at the northern part of the island. Herronissos is a forgotten fishing village, with a few houses and some anchored sailboats seeking refuge from the strong northern winds. The beach is small with colourful small fishing boats bobbing up and down the water and good fish taverns like Herronissos (Tel: +30 22840 33119) where you will lick your fingers after the aromatic fish soup (made similar to bouillabaisse), fresh lobster and seafood, and Romantza (Tel: +30 22840 33137) for fish and a view of the small

harbour. On your way back from Herronissos, in the area of Troullaki, you will find Iliovasilema (Tel: +30 22840 31970) a taverna for die-hard fans of grilled meat and if you manage to get a table you will enjoy a beautiful sunset vista. Just before you reach Herronissos is Vroulithia, a beach with large pebbles, clear blue waters and a few sun loungers and umbrellas. The rocks and green waters of Poulati beach at the eastern coast make it ideal for snorkelling. To reach it you follow the signs to Poulati, then park by the small church and walk down the dirt path behind it. Remember to bring water and food because there aren’t any stores at the beach. At the south-eastern part of the island, close to Chrisopigi, are three coves forming the area and village of Faros. The fishing village has a small beach with shallow waters and sand. Fasolou is the quiet cove right next to it with plenty of tamarisks to lie under. If you don’t mind swimming in dark waters, head to the flat rocks of Eptamartires found below Kastro village. To get there, there’s a paved

The picturesque main town of Apollonia wakes form its lethargic midday mode after 6pm, when the heat subsides. The town is comprised of a small noisy main square where buses from Kamares stop and the main narrow alley on the right leading into the heart of the village. This alley is called to steno (the alley) and quickly fills up with sun kissed faces going in and out of the jewellery shops. The traditional confectionary and café Tris Xanthi Angeli (Three Blond Angels, Tel: +30 22840 32294) their famous Greek-style donuts (loukoumades) with honey and cinnamon, or chocolate syrup are served peeping hot right out of the cauldron creating a small panic outside the shop. You need to get there before diner time to sit at one of the very few tables placed on the alley. Across the café is a small shop selling sarongs and canvas backpacks called drouvas, made locally. In a narrow street behind Tris Xanthi Angeli is the restaurant Adieksodo (Tel: +30 22840 31542) spread out on several levels, with hearty local meals most of which are based on meat. Locals call Apollonia and the almost merged quarter of Ano Petali, Stavri (Stavros means cross) because, when seen from above, the white square buildings form a cross. If you walk back to the main square and then turn left towards Artemonas, you will find Vengera café (Tel: +30 22840 3335)

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

serving delicious traditional desserts and crepes and two doors down Veranda café (Tel: +30 22840 33969), a modern establishment with great views of Kato Petali and Paros. Apollonia is home to a Folklore Museum, two pharmacies and a few banks. The picturesque village of Artemonas is a few minutes’ walk from Apollonia and is much quieter than the main town. Old mansions are scattered around the cobbled alleyways with colourful blooms in pottery pots, old whitewashed churches, traditional bakeries and a few tavernas on the main square. Walk towards the windmills at the eastern part of the village, known as Bella Vista, for a spectacular view over Kastro and the sea. Every September, the islands’ cultural association organises a threeday festival of Cycladic gastronomy in honor of

Accommodation: Hotel Myrto (Kamares, Tel: +30 22840 32055, 32386, www.hotel-myrto.gr) is a lovely family-run hotel with great views of the harbour. Rouvina (Tel: +30 22840 31416) has simple, clean rooms overlooking Chrisopigi monastery, Elies (Tel: +30 22840 34000, www. eliesresorts.com) is a beautiful and pricey resort hotel at the edge of Vathi beach. Niriides (Platis Yalos, Tel: +30 22840 71530) has comfortable rooms with a sea view and Aris & Maria (Tel: +30 22840 31161, www.arismaria-traditional. com) the beautiful traditional homes inside Kastro. Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus port with Sifnos. Check the “Getting to and from the islands” section for ferry websites.

Sifnos

Nikolaos Tselementes. Visitors to Artemonas have the opportunity to taste local specialties and participate in the celebrations. After your walk, find Manganas taverna (Tel: +30 22840 32051) for a roundup of local specialties. Inside a side alley is the restaurant To Perivoli (Tel: +30 22840 31045, open 18:00-01:00), with tables spread in a lovely yard under the stars. Perivoli which attempts a more elegant approach to Sifnian staples with products cultivated in their own garden. The well-known confectionery Vasilios Theodorou (tel: +30 22840 33472) makes delicious sesame bars made with local honey, pies with white halva, marzipans and small pastries. Equally attractive to its desserts is the interior decoration of the confectionary, typical of a 1960s local mansion. Across Manganas taverna is Margarita café (Tel: +30 22840) where you can drink your Greek coffee and sample a few mezedes.

Kastro

The cluster of whitewashed houses and walls which form the medieval fortification of Kastro village in the eastern coast is all about location. The sight of village on the hill-top as you approach it by car is like a postcard. The buildings inside the settlement form two circles, with the inner one made up of the houses of the rich and the outer circle from more simple constructions. Cars are not allowed in, so you are able to enjoy a quiet walk through the archways and meandering alleys. The cafés of Kastro, strategically located towards the east, allow for sweeping

Apollonia, Artemonas or Kastro. All three are fantastic choices for spending your holidays in Sifnos.

views of the ocean and the nearby islands. To Kastro (Tel: +30 22840 31476) at the entrance of the village, is a simple taverna with great views. To the west of Kastro village, below the hill, is the pebbled beach of Seralia, home to the hip restaurant Ta Vatrahia (Tel: +30 22840 33047). The pricey, all-white restaurant specialises in gourmet seafood dishes and fresh fish served around a pool.

Nightlife

When the moon is up, head back to the steno (the main alleyway) of Apollonia for the first drink of the evening. Botzi bar has a relaxed atmosphere and several small rooms which lead to an open yard at the back, where drinks are served. Further down is Argo bar, an all-time classic venue with people seated ion built-in sofas and small tables on two levels. For a rock feel, head to To Doloma bar and drink your beer mingling with the others outside. If you’re staying in Kamares, go for a drink

to Old Captain’s, an old bar with dark wooden floors and an opening to the beach. Further up the alley is Kikladon Horos (Tel: +30 22840 32211, 32215) a beautiful multi venue setting the tone in Apollonia. The venue houses a small gallery, a shop, a romantic restaurant (called Fegaropsaro) and a coffee shop (called Rabagas) spread out in large back garden, with tables set under the pines for a coffee or a drink. The riotous panigiria (festivals held on saints’ days) taking place in Sifnos are for locals the opportunity to get together and celebrate with plenty of food and wine set on long tables outside the churches. During the summer, there’s one on the 20th of July at the Church of Profitis Ilias (there are two Profitis Ilias churches; the one closer to Kamares is really special) and on the 1st of September at the church of Agios Simeon. The festival on the 15th of August (on Assumption Day) is celebrated all around Greece, but it is more colourful in the Cyclades.

Mamma Mia

Ω3

Palmira Café-Bar

Cayenne restaurant

LifO e choiocs Sifn

Verina Villas Vathi, Tel: +30 22840 71525, www.verina.gr A combination of traditional Cycladic simplicity, modern design and the element of nature in the inner spaces. The villas are the ideal place which meets the demands of every visitor and provides them with every possible facility. 01

Verina Suites & Pool Bar Platis Gialos, Tel: +30 22840 71525, www.verina.gr Close to the most crowded beach of Sifnos and sur02

Verina Villas

Sifnos

rounded by groves, it consists of four luxury maisonettes and two autonomous suites. All of them are built and designed based upon the architecture of the island. You ’ll have a relaxing time by the pool and refreshing cocktails by the bar. Astra Verina 03 Poulati, Tel: +30 22840 71525, www.verina.gr A few minutes away from Apollonia, the capital of Sifnos, you will find a cluster of seven fully equipped suites. 04

Exodos club Apollonia

This venue in Apollonia opened this year and is one of the few offering entertainment until late at night. Good music, especially Greek music, from resident DJs set the rhythm for Sifnos’ nightlife. Kavatza Apollonia, Tel: +30 22840 35154 Opens in the morning (all day) and there are two reasons why you should visit it apart from its excellent products: The first one is its huge pool and the second is the amazing view, offered because of its location on the edge of a cliff. 05

Astra Verina

Veranda Apollonia, Tel: +30 22840 33969 An all-day café-bar-restaurant which serves coffee, juices and breakfast in the morning, cold appetisers, light courses, salads and desserts for lunch and drinks at night. The venue also offers bartending and bar-catering services in weddings and other events. 06

Mamma Mia Apollonia, Tel: +30 22840 33086, Platis Gialos, Tel: +30 22840 71219, www.mammamiasifnos. com This year it will be the 25th 07

anniversary of the day the Milano family opened the first Mamma Mia restaurant on Platis Yalos. A few years later, the second one was opened in Apollonia setting the standard in Sifnos’ gastronomy. In the menu you will find traditional and homemade pasta, authentic pizza, even carpaccio. Its dishes are based on local raw materials from farmers and fishermen of the island, as well as on ingredients which are shipped every week from Italy. Palmira Café-Bar Platis Gialos Chill out beach bar located on the beach of Platis Yalos in Sifnos. It has couches and sun loungers to relax; it offers breakfast, tasty cold appetisers and selections of Italian meats which you can accompany with cold beers or wine. Don’t forget to try the special cocktails prepared by the talented bartenders. 08

Ω3 Platis Gialos At Platis Gialos beach, right on the seafront, a brand new venue has opened with seafood and Mediteranean dishes with the quality guaranteed by the Milano family. 09

Cayenne restaurant Apollonia, Tel: +30 22840 31080, www. cayenne-restaurantsifnos.gr An ideal space with a lovely summer yard where chef Nikos Neroutsos creates a mix of classic Greek and modern Mediterranean cuisine. The painting exhibitions organised every summer on the floor above the restaurant are a plus.

Verina Suites & Pool Bar

Veranda

Oasis Apollonia, Tel: +30 22840 33963 Here you will find a wide range of clothes from known or up-and-coming Greek designers like Lila Nova, Stelios Kourdounaris , Elisavet Kapogianni , Athina Klo , Apostolos Mitropoulos and more. The store also offers yoga classes. 11

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Amorgos If you want to polish your French or Italian, Amorgos is the place to do it, because the island is full of tourists from these two countries – which proves their good taste. The easternmost island of the Cyclades is famous for its beautifully preserved main village, Hora, and its celebrated crystal clear waters, immortalised in Luc Besson’s movie The Big Blue. The island is a quiet place where you will enjoy archetypical Cycladic architecture, traditional customs and reasonable prices.

Amorgos

What to do

The island has two ports, Katapola and Aegiali, and plenty of small settlements inland which are worth a visit to observe the lifestyle of the islanders especially if you visit at the time of a panigiri (festivals held on saints’ days, the main one being on August 15th). Amorgos is dry and mountainous, with its three highest peaks reaching between 630-890 metres high. Walking, diving and climbing are some of the islanders’ favourite pastimes and Amorgos Diving Centre (Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73611, email: scuba@

amorgos-diving.com, www.amorgos-diving. com) plans all three. The small company started with diving trips around Amorgos’ coast line and soon added hiking and walking tours, all led by experienced guides. In recent years, local authorities have mapped and marked seven main footpaths which connect the main villages. This initiative has proved a great success, with groups of islanders and tourists criss-crossing hills and valleys all year round. As you hike through the arid land, you encounter small white churches (ksoklisia), cisterns built to retain much needed rain

clear modernist elements, like the thunderbolt-like openings on the walls. It consists of four white separate buildings forming a curve.

Beaches

water, and herds of goats grazing between shrubs. Between the mountains, the hinterland reveals the valley of Kolofana at the west, the biggest on the island and the small valley of Katapola at the centre. Look up and you see the windmills standing proudly on the mountain ridge. All those adventurous souls out there, you’d be happy to know that Amorgos has added itself in the geocaching community (an elaborate treasure hunt). If your mobile phone has a GPS, log in www.geocaching. com, follow the instructions and you’re good to go. The website www. amorgos-island-magazine.com has, among other island information, tips on geocaches stashed around the island, as well as a relevant map. A walk around Hora reveals the slow paced life of the islanders. People leave their doors open, whiffs of oven cooked beef escape from the green and red shutters, and stray cats roam around lazily hoping to find a little something to eat. Just like the other Cycladic villages, this one also was under Venetian 62

Amorgos

rule and has a castle to prove it. It was built by Jeremiah Gizis in the 13th century to defend the island against invaders who also built the church of Agios Georgios (Saint George). The mansion of Gavras houses the Archaeological Museum (open Tue-Sun 09:0013:00 and 18:00-20:30) with its impressive selection of statues, parts of columns and utensils dug out from three ancient settlements on the island. Tholaria is the most picturesque village inland from Aegiali and should be visited in the evening for dinner and a view of the sunset. Just 100 metres outside the village is Café Seladi (Tel: +30 6932 627365) the perfect place to stretch your aching feet, drink your coffee and take in the beautiful panoramic view of the surrounding hills. Langada village, just before Tholaria, is just as charming and worth a visit. Islanders gather at the square of the lower neighbourhood (kato gitonia) to play bocce with old ladies looking on from their house entrances.

Monastery

Perched perilously on a rocky mountain side 300 metres above sea level, the Byzantine monastery of Panagia Hozoviotisa, patron saint of the island, has a remarkable collection of rare icons and manuscripts. Climbing up the endless stone steps is a feat in its own merit, but the view from the small plateau, which marks the entrance to the monastery is well worth the effort. The monastery was built by Byzantine Empreror Alexios Komninos in 1088. If you’re in Amorgos on November 21st, join locals at the panigiri organised at the monastery for a special treat of free local specialties and loads of dance. Another interesting sight on the island is the villa of Iannis Xenakis –Greek composer, theorist and architect– built for his daughter and her husband between 1966 and 1977, close to Lefkes village, overlooking the gulf of Tirokomos. Xenakis, who worked at Le Corbusier’s studios between 1947 and 1959, designed a typical Cycladic building with

Amorgos has a few beaches which are easily accessible, but for the rest you will need to do some easy or more serious hiking. Get a map, a bottle of water and walking shoes, and you’re ready to go. A favoured option is Agia Anna, whose crystal clear blue waters featured in The Big Blue. If you continue driving past Agia Anna, you will find Kambi, a beach popular with nudists. In southeastern Amorgos close to Vroutsi village is Mouros beach, which can be reached by car and then you descend a dirt path for 10 minutes to reach its rocky shore. Psili Ammos beach is a long stretch of sand with

Accommodation: Most of the available accommodation on the island is centred in Katapola and Aegiali. Camping Aegiali (Tel: +30 22850 73500). Aegialis Hotel & Spa (Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73180, 73181, www. amorgos-aegialis.com) is a classy hotel for those who want to be pampered. Lakki Village (Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73253) is situated right on the waterfront and offers very good food at the taverna. The one-year-old Aqua Petra (Agios Pavlos, Tel: +30 22850 73011) has 30 apartments near one of the most beautiful beaches. Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Amorgos. For ferry websites check the “Getting to and from the islands” section.

The Byzantine monastery of Panagia Hozoviotisa, patron saint of the island, has a remarkable collection of rare icons and manuscripts.

Amorgos

pristine water, which can be reached either by boat, or by a 35-minute walk. After a 20-minute walk from Ormos, you will see Levrosos, the perfect beach for nudists. At the south, there is sandy Perivolas, the small cove of Kato Kambos, Paradisia and Kalotaritisa. From Kalotaritisa you can cross by boat to the uninhabited island of Gramvousa for a swim. The quiet beach of Agios Pavlos is close to the namesake village. At the tip of the cove, a 10-metre long stretch of white sand forms a natural, picture perfect â&#x20AC;&#x153;peninsulaâ&#x20AC;?. If the beach is full by the time you reach it, walk about 20 minutes south of Agios Pavlos and you will find small secluded beaches. From the side of Katapola, you will find in turn the organised Maltezi beach, Agios

Panteleimonas, Kato Akrotiri and Finikies.

Where to eat

Capetan Dimos (Tel: +30 22850 71020) taverna at Katapola serves the local specialty patato (oven cooked goat with potatoes), or other interesting dishes like octopus with ouzo and ginger. Vitsentzos (Katapola, Tel: +30 22850 71518) has both meat and fish. The cook in Liotrivi (Hora, Tel: +30 22850 71700) makes a delicious beef with aubergine and feta, while Kathodon (Hora, Tel: +30 22850 74148) is where you will try the delicious meze and raki (strong alcoholic beverage boiled with sugar and cinnamon). At Loukaki taverna at Langada village you will eat traditional specialties and sing along rembetika songs every Saturday night.

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Panorama (Tholaria, Tel: +30 22850 73349) has live music and is strictly for meat lovers. Wherever available, try the local wine, cheeses (ladotiri, ksino), pies stuffed with desserts, olive oil, and figs. Amorgion shop (one in Katapola and one in Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 71552, 73187 respectively, www.amorgion. gr) sells products made locally, like pasteli (traditional sesame snack with honey), rakomelo (raki with honey), and Mekila â&#x20AC;&#x201C;wordplay with tequilaâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; which is an alcoholic beverage made from the juice of prickly pears. The lack of rain makes for greatsmelling herbs which are brewed to produce herb teas and can be found on many grocery stores. Yannis and his Dutch wife Merit have a lovely shop called Paschalitsa (Ladybug) at Aegiali (Tel: +30 22850 73564) selling

Amorgos

In recent years, local authorities have mapped and marked seven main footpaths which connect the main villages. This initiative has proved a great success, with groups of islanders and tourists criss-crossing hills and valleys all year round.

decorative items, paintings of Merit, driftwood art, toys and jewellery. Amorgian women are also known as excellent embroiders. The linen and silk white headscarves embroidered with floral patterns make for a gorgeous neck scarf.

Their level of artistry and detailed work has earned Amorgian embroidery a place in the Metropolitan Museum of Art which houses a finely embroidered linen strip from the 18th century. Amorgos is not a party island, but you will find

a few quiet bars to sip your beer. At the port of Aegiali, Maestro is a daytime cafĂŠ which turns into a bar at night. At Katapola, the Moon Bar is a charming place almost hidden behind a large tree.

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Captain Dimos

Triporto café bar

Botilia bar

LifO e chorigcos Amo

Meli & Kanella Katapola, Tel: +30 22850 71485 A traditional coffee house which resembles a bakery and a wine cellar, where you will find coffee, sage, sesame bars, cookies with honey and cinnamon, fresh lavender, boiled raki, tasty desserts, handmade ice cream and other delicacies. 01

Captain Dimos Katapola, Tel: +30 22850 71020 It is the first thing you see 02

Amorgos

at the port of Katapola. The wooden tables, chairs and the music will invite you to sit. The Mediterranean and Greek dishes prepared by chef Yannis Lourdaros are the ones that will win you over. Triporto café–bar Hora, Tel: +30 22850 73085 In an area which in the 1950s housed a traditional bakery is now a charming summer bar in white, decorated with blooming bougainvilleas. It opens in 03

the morning serving Youli’s famous breakfast, homemade desserts and pies, and in the evening with good drinks and good music. Grill House Victoras Katapola, Tel: +30 22850 74101 If you’re looking for juicy and good quality meat, you will find them here. With local ingredients and meat of his own production, he has created a menu with food from the grill. There are also beers, wine and refreshments to choose from. 04

Amorgos Diving Centre Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73611 If you’re passionate about scuba diving, this is the place to come. If you are a beginner, the qualified staff will safely introduce you to the secrets of diving. Apart from diving, the centre organises groups for hiking and climbing. 05

Aegialis Hotel & Spa

Amorgos Diving Centre

Kallisto confectionary

Grill House Victoras

Marouso

Botilia bar Hora, Tel: +30 6936184321 A summery, breezy bar with a green garden and a large range of imaginative cocktails. The music is mainly international and includes songs from all decades and all genres. 06

Marouso Arkesini, Tel: +30 22850 72331 Traditional taverna with well-made seafood lie stuffed kalamari, which is 07

the specialty, and also meat dishes of her own production. Quality distillates and rebetika music complete the experience.

ful landscape of the island. To better serve you, the company delivers and picks up the car from any location on the island.

Evdokiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s car & bike rental Aegiali village, Tel: +30 22850 73050, www.askaspension.gr A car hiring company which can cover all your needs during your holidays. The company has a fleet of new cars and scooters (125 cc) available daily to those who want to explore the beauti-

Aegialis Hotel & Spa Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73393 A fully equipped hotel of 55 rooms with modern decoration. It is ideal for relaxation, quiet holidays, and spiritual and physical rejuvenation. It has two restaurants, a bar and an area for coffee. Services include yoga, dance lessons

and other activities. Kallisto confectionary Hora village, Tel: +30 22850 74094 Located in a quaint alley of Hora, the chef prepares and offers daily an amazing breakfast and fine delicacies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all based on regional products. Eastern sweets, ice cream, cakes, tarts, but also drinks like coffee, herbal teas and distillates are waiting for you to try them. 10

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Antiparos Antiparos is a small island off the southwestern coast of Paros. The island is one of the first –alongside Mykonos– which allowed nudism in the 1970s. What started as an off-the-beaten-track destination for rockers and camping lovers has in the last few years turned into a cosmopolitan, mainstream land of expensive property and loud nightlife. The whole island has two main streets, one leading to Agios Yorgis, the only other village on the island, and the other leading to Sifneiko, a beach to the north. Life on the island concentrates on the main village, also called Antiparos, which is basically an extension of the port.

Antiparos

What to do

The village has many cafés, small grocery stores, bars and tavernas scattered around. During the day, you could be excused for thinking Antiparos village is deserted, as there’s hardly anyone walking around. The village comes to life in the evening, when sunburned tourists amble along the cobbled streets, looking for a place to eat. Thankfully, cars are not allowed in the village. Walking past the Church of Agios Nikolaos at the central square, you will see the Kastro (castle), the old fortified settlement, built in the 13th century by the usual suspect, Marco Sanudo, the Venetian Duke of Naxos. The flat roofed houses inside the kastro have been well preserved and

they are typically built in a square. Watch for the emblem of the “Venetian Democracy” which has survived on a wall over the balcony of a house right behind the Church of Christ. Atop the hill of Agios Yannis at the southeastern part of the island is the Cave of Antiparos, where the stalactite and stalagmite formations make for an extraordinary sight. The staircase will lead you down the well-lit cave, where you will see a flat formation named “altar” after a Christmas mass that took place here in 1673 by French Ambassador Marquis de Nointel. To get there, take the bus or a boat from Antiparos village. History buffs will love Despotiko Island, found off the south-western

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Antiparos is a new favorite among Greek and international island hoppers!

tip of Antiparos, where an ancient sanctuary of Apollo was discovered unharmed in the 19th century. The sanctuary was used from the 7th century until Roman times and its most significant find is a large female figurine, probably a goddess, as well a building complex of five rooms. The island was inhabited until the 17th century, when French pirates killed all the inhabitants. There are daily boat trips from Antiparos village. Back to Antiparos town, visit the small Folklore Museum (inside Kastro, Tel: +30 22840 61005, open daily 08:00-14:00, except Sat, Sun) for a look at traditional everyday objects and costumes, as well as Cycladic figurines.

Swimming

The island may be small, but there is no shortage 72

Antiparos

Nightlife

Antiparos village also has a beautiful open air cinema, Oliaros, showing a different movie almost every night, at 21:30. To complete the experience, buy something to munch from the bar at the back. The tavernas and bars are conveniently gathered at the main square of Antiparos village, so you will not need to do much walking. For breakfast, head to Margarita (Tel: +30 22840 61491) for one of her fresh chicken sandwiches with curry, or next door to Papagalos for scrambled eggs with tomato – and eat them at

of beaches to swim. Agios Sostis and Faneromeni are the prettiest, with turquoise waters. Faneromeni is divided in two very small bays; the one in the north is rocky and the other one is sandy. Close to the main village, Agios Spyridonas has shallow waters making it ideal for families with kids. The same applies for 1st Psaraliki, which has sun loungers and umbrellas. For those who like crowded beaches, head to 2nd Psaraliki, where you can play volley ball or do some people watching under the tamarisks. Livadi beach has sand but no shade, while Apantima is small with a rocky sea bottom, making it ideal for snorkelling. Surfers will love Sifneiko, but regular swimmers usually avoid it because of the layer of seaweeds washed out on the beach and the constant winds.

For those who prefer nudism, head to at the east of the island or the beach next to the camping site at Theologos (Camping Antiparos, Tel: +30 22840 61221), where it is officially allowed. The calm waters of the camping are filled with nudists from all walks of life – from old tanned hippies to young couples and kids. The sea bottom around Antiparos’s coastline is rocky, making it ideal for scuba diving. Blue Island Divers (www.blueislanddivers.gr, Tel: +30 22840 61767) organise diving expeditions in several sites to observe schools of small colourful fish, reefs, tunas, canyons and shipwrecks. The diving site depends on the experience of the participants and is always headed by qualified instructors and dive masters.

Accommodation: Camping Antiparos (Tel: +30 22840 61221), right next to the beach, covers a very large area and has plenty of trees for shade. In late July and August it can get pretty noisy. Hotel Chrysoula (Tel: +30 22840 61451) is located on a quiet alley at the port, 200 metres from Psaraliki beaches. Galini (Tel: +30 22840 61420) is a clean, simple hotel with fully equipped rooms. Korali hotel has beautiful, well-furnished white rooms, at a quiet street of Antiparos Village. Getting there: There are no direct ferry services from Athens to Antiparos. You take a ferry to Paros and from there it is a short boat ride to the island. Boats leave from the main port of Paros (Parikia) every half hour during high season and are timed to coincide with the arrival of the large ferries from Athens. Alternatively, you can take the bus from Parikia to Pounta and from there the open ferry to Antiparos which takes about five minutes. During high season, the open ferry runs every half hour until 15:00 and afterwards every one hour.

the garden at the back. Argo (Tel: +30 22840 61419) is a family restaurant five minutes from the port, serving excellent Greek fare, and good quality tsipouro at reasonable prices. Captain P (Tel: +30 22840 21823) is known for the good seafood and the excellent views over the harbour of Agios Yiorgios, the quiet village at the southern tip of the island. Statheros (Tel: +30 22840 61127) cooks delicious oven cooked specials down at the port whereas Oikogeniako (+30 22840 61328) makes the best souvlakia in town. Further out to Sifneiko beach, you will find Sunset Deseo (Tel: +30 22840 61719), a beautiful open air restaurant of the namesake hotel. The minimal white furniture spreads out into the garden and all the way to the beach. It serves Mediterranean cuisine and is rather expensive, but the location and the sunset are worth it. Lollo’s pizzeria (Tel: +30 22840 61215) is owned by two Italians who serve the real thing. The island’s nightlife is more intense than you might expect. Bars stay open usually until 3am. The older bars in the village still play classic rock tunes (Bob Dylan, Doors etc.) to an everdiminishing number of grey-haired customers. Interestingly, the other type of music that never

went out of fashion here is disco. La Luna, located near the Camping Antiparos, is a classic outdoor disco untouched by the passage of time – for better or for worse. The venue comes complete with strobo lights and bad drinks and is packed until the sun comes up. It is frequented by those old enough to remember the disco songs. Milos disco is housed in an old windmill with an adjacent area for dancing and staring at the stars through the glass roof. Smile is a regular hangout joint right on the square playing mainly rock and funk music to its many loyal customers. Tzitzikas is the mainstream hotspot for the younger generation which doesn’t go to bed before sunrise. Boogaloo cocktail bar attempts a more urban chick atmosphere, with wooden benches and minimal aesthetics. The music is really loud, so dancing is the only option. Tabula Rasa next door is frequented by 30-somethings and is just as crowded. In the 2nd Psaraliki beach is Time Marine beach bar, where you can stock up on salads and fruit juices after your swim. To relieve your aching body from all the swimming and boozing surrender yourself to the capable hands of Roula Papathanasiou, a therapist practising Reiki and Thai massage. Roula is in Antiparos in July and August and can be contacted at: newenergyrp@gmail. com and at her mobile: +30 6945 104810. Before you leave, make sure you try the following delicious local foods: xinomizithra cheese (Sinioris restaurant at Antiparos village has the best), rabbit casserole and mizithra cheese.

Camping Antiparos

KooKoo Antiparos Summer Club

LifO e choipiacros

Anargyros

Camping Antiparos Tel: +30 22840 61221, www.camping-antiparos.gr Comfortable, clean camping site located in an area of lush vegetation right next to one of the most beautiful beaches of Antiparos. The camping site includes a mini market and a self-service restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine. 01

KooKoo Antiparos Summer Club Hora, Tel: +30 6974 902781, facebook: Kookoo Antiparos In the heart of Hora, very close to the central square, you will find for a second year in a row KooKoo Antiparos Summer Club. The 02

Ant

evening starts with mellow music and picks up tempo in the evening offering a real clubbing experience until the sun comes up. Anargyros Marina, Tel: +30 22840 61204 The oldest restaurant and hotel in Antiparos. Anargyros is an all-day venue with authentic Cycladic architecture that offers breakfast and dinner based on traditional and international cuisine with quality ingredients of his own production. The walls are decorated with pictures from the Greek movie Mandalena which was filmed `here. 03

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Partying all night long is not the only thing to do in this beautiful island.

Ios In our late teens, going to Ios for holidays was considered a milestone, like turning twenty. Going there meant you had done it all; you had partied hard –and survived. Ios is still affectionately called the “Island of Sin”. Every summer, throngs of teenagers from hard drinking countries (Scandinavian, Irish, British) flock to the island looking for some time in the sun, cheap drinks and uncomplicated happiness. Lately, local authorities have been trying to subtly change the image of the island in order to attract older –and less riotous– clientele. The island infrastructure has improved with some streets being paved and areas of interest restored. Ios too has featured in a movie; the Italian 2003 production Ginger and Cinnamon (original title Dillo con Parole Mie) in which two women of different age groups stop acting their age while holidaying on the island – a real shocker.

Ios

What to do

Most of the tourists who come to Ios are interested in the nightlife and never get to see Hora in the daytime; yet the capital is truly worth a day of exploring. In the narrow winding alleys women carry their groceries home followed by a hungry cat or two. In the small, tranquil squares old men sit at the traditional kafenio (coffee house) talking quietly. Housed in a neoclassical building the small Archaeological Museum (Tel: +30 22860 91246) exhibits prehistoric artefacts and inscriptions from the excavations conducted at the area of Skarkos, an impressive prehistoric settlement excavated at the top of a hill at the western part of the island. The tall walls of some buildings still survive, and archaeologists have

collected a number of tools, pottery and other artefacts which have shed light at the long history of the island. In 2008, the restoration project was awarded the EU Prize for Cultural Heritage for its unobtrusive clean-up work, which highlighted the importance of the site without adding unnecessary buildings. The site is open to the public and has two entrances. According to ancient Greek historian Herodotus, the famous poet Homer was buried in Ios, but there is no concrete evidence yet to support this claim. Nevertheless, locals will point to a tomb located at the northern edge of Ios, close to the beach of Plakotos. Just before you reach Plakoto, another path leads to an area where Hellenistic ruins were discovered. There’s a modern open air amphitheatre with

amazing views of the island at the area of Tsoukalaria near Hora. The theatre, named after the Nobel prizewinning Greek poet Odysseas Elytis, was designed by German architect Peter Haupt and is built from local stones and marble. To find it, hike past the windmills of Hora. The theatre is rarely used, with the exception of an annual festival in honour of Homer.

Swimming

Milopotas is a long sandy beach situated at the western coast of the island, in a deep cove. A light breeze creates ripples on the azure waters and if you are one of those rare types of tourist who wakes up before 2pm, you will probably have it all to yourself. In Milopotas (Milopotas Water Sports, Tel: +30 22860 91622, www. ios-sports.gr), Yalos and Manganari beach you can do scuba diving, wind-surfing, waterskiing, tubing, jet-skiing and wake boarding. Yalos is the organised beach just right of the main port, Ormos, and is usually preferred by families and those who like water sports. If you continue walking for 20 more minutes, you will reach the much quieter Koumbara beach. Further out are the four coves that form Manganari beach, with shallow waters and a few thatched umbrellas. Close to Hora is the tiny cove of Valmas with enough sand to place five towels and a small taverna behind it to save the day when you feel hungry. To the north lies Agia Theodoti beach, a less crowded option, with sun loungers and cafés. At the hill behind the beach is Agia Theodoti church, dating from the

16th century. Taking the road towards Paleokastro, you will eventually reach the valley of Psathi and its isolated beach. If the wind is strong, you will definitely be joined by windsurfers, though the intense sunlight and glint of the sea makes it difficult to discern details of the sails bobbing up and down in the water. Kolitsani beach is halfway between the port and Milopotas. It used to be a nudist beach, but its increased popularity and the anchored yachts which seek haven from the winds have turned it more mainstream. You can walk there from the port or take the boat. If you have a car, drive past Milopotas and turn at the crossroads to find small Klima beach. The main road also leads to the Monastery of

Accommodation: Ios Camping (Tel: +30 22860 92035) is well organised with a pool to keep everyone cool. Far Out Camping (Tel: +30 22860 91468) is an institution in Ios and through the years has welcomed generations of party lovers. Korali Hotel (Yalos, Tel: +30 22860 91272) has immaculate rooms, a pool and a perfect view of the sea. Ergina Apartments (Hora, Tel: +30 22860 91774) offer modern Cycladic style apartments with an amazing terrace. Kolitsani View (Kolitsani, Tel: +30 22860 91061) has clean rooms and a large open area with a pool overlooking Kolitsani beach. Getting there: There are daily ferry services connecting Ios to Piraeus and Rafina. By air, the island is served by local and some international airlines. For ferry and airline websites check the “Getting to and from the islands” section.

Kalamos and, after that, either to Kalamos beach, or Tris Ekklisies (Three Churches), both small and quiet. There are numerous isolated coves to enjoy, but getting there is very difficult unless you rent out a boat.

Where to eat

Escape restaurant (Hora, Tel: +30 22860 92004) seems like it is open 24/7. There’s breakfast (continental, eggs & beans), lunch and dinner, which are later followed by cocktails. Korali restaurant at Yalos beach is part of the wonderful Korali hotel (Tel: +30 22860 91272) with tables spread out right next to the beach. The cook prepares pizzas in the wood burning oven as well as other Italian specialties, with some ingredients produced by the owner himself. Vilaeti taverna at the village of Pano Kambos (Tel: +30 22860 92072) is a place frequented by locals. Order the kontosouvli, or the pies and some local wine. Fiesta (Hora, Tel: +30 22860 91766) is a simple taverna cooking anything from hearty meat dishes to pizzas. At the one end of Milopotas beach is Drakos taverna (Tel: +30 22860 91281) serving fresh fish and excellent seafood like spaghetti with lobster and octopus cooked in three different ways.

Nightlife

The difference between the nightlife scene in Mykonos and the one in Ios is that the latter instituted the cheapdrinks/cheap-lodging type of tourism, while Mykonos targeted the more upmarket crowd. In Ios, people do not wait for the sun to set to start partying. Several beach

cafés on Milopotas and Yalos beach organise events and themed parties as early as 4pm. Milopotas beach club is a classic hangout spot where athletic men and women in their swimsuits dance around the pool to the sound of the latest hits. Later on, the crowds bring their energy and naughty intentions to Hora, flooding the main square and narrow alleys around it. It is the place to look for the wildest parties and the friends one made at the beach this morning. Most venues play the type of music that keeps people dancing and drinking, while some bars organise mad drinking events giving new meaning to the phrase binge drinking. Bar Helios (Mobile: +30 6972234555) is a venue where customers can make their own music requests. The Sweet Irish Dream (Tel: +30 22860 91141) is packed with sweaty youngsters –not necessarily from Ireland– dancing through the night on the tables. Scorpion club (Tel: +30 6974528989) opens really late –when other bars close– and plays trance for its teenage and early 20s clientele. Close to the main square are Shamrock, Red Bull and Slammers, all crowded and just as noisy. Down one alley at the end of the village you will see Rehab Bar (that’s the place you’ll be heading to after Ios) and Shooters – you may guess what you order there. Lemon club is a disco, while Orange bar leans more towards rock and reggae (jelly shots are the specialty). Ios club is one of the few quiet bars on the island with superb views of the island. For some old-fashioned head banging go to Jonis Electric bar.

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Koufonisia Koufonisia are part of the Little Cyclades, a cluster of five small islands southeast of Naxos: Iraklia, Schinousa, Donousa and Koufonisia. Back in the 1980s, only the odd bearded backpackers and loners chose this part of the Aegean for holidays, known as agoni grammi (non-commercial lines) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ferry routes with very low passenger and commercial traffic which no shipping company cared to service. The trend started to change in the mid1990s, when the appetite for the popular islands was saturated and more people wanted to travel off the beaten track. 76

Koufonisia

The biggest recipient of the new wave of tourism has been Koufonisi, whose tourist infrastructure went from having one camping site, two tavernas and two cafĂŠs to dozens of rooms, boutique hotels, apartments and bars spread all over the island. The inhabitants in all these islands are mainly fishermen who continue to supply the local tavernas with their daily catch. The islands are ideal for those who are interested in resting and swimming and not so much in culture, as there is not much sightseeing to be done.

What to do

Iraklia has remained largely unchanged and very quiet. The main village is not particularly scenic, but has retained this old-times charm. Livadi beach is where most tourists stop for a swim but you can seek out more lovely beaches if you walk along the coastline. Schinousa is a prettier island and owes its beauty to the simplicity of the landscape and the tranquil lifestyle. If you’re serious about escaping modernity, this is the island for you, as it has no nightlife, no banks and no fuel stations. It does have many beaches with emerald waters along its coastline. The biggest of the group is Donousa, an island chosen for its golden beaches, quiet lifestyle and ample free camping space at Kedros, Kalotaritisa and Livadi. Kedros beach –the only beach where nudism and free camping is officially allowed– attracts divers and snorkelers who want to explore the little that is left of the wreckage of Orion, a destroyer boat which sunk in WWII. Donousa has four small villages; the port Stavros, the tiny, almost uninhabited Messaria, Mersini, with panoramic 78

Koufonisia

views of the island and Kalotaritisa at the edge of the island. There is a small taverna in Kalotaritisa with very decent traditional food. At Mersini, don’t forget to eat at Tzi-tzi (at the road towards Livadi beach, Tel: +30 6973207569), a simple taverna up in the hill with perfect view of the Aegean and a menu written in an old school notebook, or at I Kori tou kir-Mihali (The daughter of Mr Michalis, Tel: +30 22850 72322) with its excellent Anatolian recipes, meze and good breakfast. At Stavros village, there are two all-day cafés which switch to bar-mode in the evening: Corona Borealis and Skatzohiros. Very good Greek food can also be found in Iliovasilema (Tel: +30 22850 51570, 79010, 52005) which also rents out rooms with a lovely view. Koufonisia, consist of three islands; Pano (=Upper), Kato (=Lower) Koufonisi, and Keros. Of the three, only Pano Koufonisi is inhabited. Koufonisi was forgotten for years by Gods and men, until word-ofmouth made it “famous like Mykonos, without the restaurants and nightlife,” according to a fan of the island. Koufonisi, along with Donousa,

have also been described as heaven on earth, because of the picture perfect turquoise waters and endless sandy beaches. The island’s popularity started increasing in the late 1990s, resulting in its gradual metamorphosis from backwater, to hip destination for 20- and 30-somethings. Tanned Italians with tribal tattoos constitute the bulk of tourists, but Greeks are a close second. Most distances on the island can be covered by foot or a bicycle, but you can also rent a motorcycle. A small piece of trivia: every other person is called Prasinos (Green), a local surname which has dominated the island; therefore it is very likely that a Mr or Mrs Green will be your local host, boat captain, or taverna owner. The island is rather flat and only has one vil-

lage, Hora, which is in essence an extension of the port. The first beach to be found in Koufonisi is the port itself, Megali Ammos, a favourite among families. If you start walking southwards (towards your left when facing the port) you will soon reach Harokopou, which is also preferred by families. On the beach you will see café-taverna Finikas, the oldest one on the island, open daily for business. Continuing along the coastline, you enter the clothes-free zone finding in turn the beaches of Fanos and its camping site, busy Italida and further out the somewhat quieter Pori. Keep an eye for the small coves hidden behind rock formations. They are usually only big enough for you and your significant other or a party of six at the most and offer privacy and the amazing feeling of being the only human on the planet. The island is full of caves and interesting rock formations which are why it was named Koufo, a variation of the word koufio (hollow). A famous formation on the way to Pori is the “eye of the devil”, which is essentially a large hole in the rocks providing a beautiful view of the sea. To the northwest you will find Parianos, a cove with a wide sandy beach well protected from the wind.

If you’re serious about escaping modernity, Koufonisia is the ideal choice for you.

Accommodation: Sorokos rooms (Upper Koufonisi, Tel: +30 22850 74152, www.sorokos. gr), Anna Villas (Upper Koufonisi, Tel: +30 22850 71697, www.annavillas. gr), Portes Houses (Upper Koufonisi, Tel: +30 22850 74495, www.porteshouses. com), Michalis Little Houses (Upper Koufonisi, Tel: +30 22850 74490, www.littlehouses.webedn. co.uk). For more information on the island check www.koufonisia.gr/eng. Getting there: There are many daily ferry services connecting Piraeus port with Upper Koufonisi and daily services from Piraeus to Naxos Island. From Naxos, there is a daily ferry service connecting all the islands of the Little Cyclades. Check the “Getting to and from the islands” section for ferry websites.

Koufonisia

Special beaches

A small piece of trivia: every other person is called Prasinos (Green), a local surname which has dominated the island; therefore it is very likely that a Mr or Mrs Green will be your local host, boat captain, or taverna owner!

Where to eat

There’s not much variety in the culinary world of Koufonisi, but you will find delicious fresh fish, lobsters and seafood delivered daily from fishermen, as well as goat and lamb meat provided from local herds. For excellent seafood head to Capetan Nikolas (Tel: +30 22850 71690, open for lunch and dinner), O Mihalios (Tel: +30 22850 71953, open for dinner) serves

all sorts of grilled meat and meze at very good prices. In the evening, people head to Hora’s main alley for a drink or a bite at Soroko (Tel: +30 22850 71704) or to the lovely Scholio (Tel: +30 22850 71837, open 18:00-3.30pm) housed in stone-walled building which used to be a school until 1930. If you feel like dancing, head to Parianos beach and the club Aneplora.

For a change in your swimming routine, take the boat to Kato Koufonisi and choose between Nero, which welcomes nudists, Mastroyiorgis, Pezoulia Fikio and Theti, four beaches and coves blessed with the same crystal waters as the Upper Island. There are a few fishing huts spread around, the church of Panagia and a good taverna, Yannis Venetsanos (Tel: +30 22850 74074) with both fresh fish and casserole dishes on the menu. There are also daily services from Hora to remote beaches and uninhabited islets. Koufonisi is crowded during July and August so your best chance of making the most of it is to arrive either in June or September.

Gastronaftis

Kalamia Café-Bar

Hondros Kavos

Nikitas Café-Bar

Koursaros

Sorokos Cocktail Bar

LifO e choincisia Koufo

Porta Beach Bar Porta beach, Ano Koufonisi New all-day café-snack bar on the beach of Porta, with chill out and lounge music during the day and dance music in the evening. 01

Gastronaftis 02 Ano Koufonisi, Tel: +30 22850 71468 A restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine and an emphasis on pure raw ingredients and fresh seafood. The chef and his team have created a friendly venue to ensure a fast service and your enjoyment.

Koufonisia

Kalamia Café-Bar Ano Koufonisi, Tel: +30 22850 74444 Kalamia is an all day and all night music café where you can have breakfast, snacks, cakes, beverages, ice-cream, juices, drinks and cocktails. It is the first café on the island with traditional decoration where everyone is made welcome. It has free WiFi and all cards accepted. 03

Hondros Kavos Harokopou beach, Tel: +30 22850 71707 A traditional complex of rooms for rent on the seafront, with an amazing view of the sea. The hotel also has 04

a restaurant serving fresh fish caught by the owners and many more homemade island specials cooked by Georgoula in the kitchen. Nikitas Café-Bar Central beach of Horio, Ano Koufonisi, Tel: +30 22850 74092 Just a few metres from the beach, the café serves coffee and snacks in the morning while in the afternoon you can enjoy ice cream, a drink or a cocktail to the sounds of music chosen by Nikitas. 05

Koursaros Over the central beach of the village, Kato Koufonisi, Tel: +30 22850 71697 06

Enjoy every meal of the day in an idyllic location with a lovely view. The thatched umbrellas and small lanterns decorating the venue create the perfect atmosphere for summer evenings. Sorokos Cocktail Bar Ano Koufonisi, Tel: +30 22850 71704 Right next to the beach and with a cool breeze blowing from neighbouring Keros island, the bar will give you the most relaxing summer afternoons, while your nights will liven up with the music of their guest DJs. In the same area you will also find ceramic creations and other artistic work. 07

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Naxos Naxos Island is the biggest in the Cyclades and you will definitely need a car to get around. The island thrived during the Byzantine era and the numerous pretty churches spread across the inland are a testament to this heritage. Myth has it that this is where Zeus, the king of ancient Greek gods, was raised and where he launched his efforts to take over the throne in Mt Olympus. Locals have given his name to the island’s tallest mountain, Zeus (also known as Zas). Even from the boat, visitors to Naxos can see the 6-metre-high Portara (gate) sticking out from the dry land to the left of the port. It is part of the unfinished temple of Apollo whose construction began in the middle of the 6th century BC but was never completed.

Naxos

What to do

Just like in other islands, the capital and port is called Hora whose historic centre reveals a beautiful, medieval town. The town, also known as kastro (castle), was built by the Venetian Duke of Naxos Marco Sanudo (who also built the kastro of Antiparos) in the 13th century. Wandering around the old town with its very well preserved Venetian buildings flanking the narrow alleys you feel like you’ve stumbled upon a film set, halfexpecting a knight in shining armour to appear from a corner. Inside the kastro, the Archaeological Museum (Tel: +30 22850 22725, open Tue-Sun 08:0015:00) housed in a listed building that used to be Sanudo’s palace, has artefacts dating from the

Late Neolithic period to the Early Christian times. The highlights are the amazing mosaic representing the abduction of Europe from Zeus and the large collection of marble figurines (Cycladic among them), vessels and amphorae. The palace itself was built from 1600 to 1800 and is in itself a highlight. The island’s Historical Archives are now housed in what used to be a French school, where writer Nikos Kazantzakis, Greece’s greatest modern writer, attended briefly. Antico Veneziano (Tel: +30 22850 22702) is a stunning 800-year-old mansion which has been restored to its former glory by the Dellaroka family and operates as an antique store. The old ornately carved wooden furniture; the

porcelains and silverware found in the mansion are displayed beautifully for the visitors. Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum (Tel: +30 22850 22386, open daily 10:0023:00) inside the castle showcases medieval everyday objects and during the summer hosts cultural activities, such as concerts of classic music and art exhibitions. Your medieval tour is completed with the Capuchins monastery and the 13th century Catholic Cathedral. There is plenty of walking and exploring to do inland, so open your map and take notes. Apiranthos is Naxos’ most beautifully preserved village. This small village has set up three museums: the Archaeology Museum (open TueSun, 08:30-15:00) with interesting rock paintings and other artefacts, the Museum of Natural History (Tue-Sun, 08:3015:00) exhibiting rocks and dolphin skeletons and the Geology Museum (open Tue-Sun, 08:3015:00) housing lots of rock formations from the island and abroad. Your tour around the island will inevitably bring you to Tragaea, a large valley at the centre of Naxos, dotted with half a dozen sleepy villages. The quaint village of Filoti, is the largest of the group, is built amphitheatrically over the fertile valley cultivated with olive trees and orchards. Further down towards Hora you encounter Halki village, which has more Venetian tower houses, the most famous of which is Gratsia Pyrgos. In the same village, the family Vallindras (Tel: +30 22850 31220) has been making Kitron, an alcoholic beverage made of citrus, in the same distillery

since 1896. The visitor is invited to observe the process and try Kitron and other products. Koronos is a mountainous village whose inhabitants used to work in the nearby emery mines. Today locals are involved in farming and agriculture. Your next stop should be Melanes, built on the side of a gorge. The highlight is a tall Kouros statue (male statue) situated in the countryside close the village, dating to the 6th century BC. Close to the village, in the area of Kalamitsa, is the old Jesuit Palace, built in the 17th century, which served as the residence of the Jesuit monks. Another giant Kouros lies in an ancient quarry close to Apollonas village, at the northern tip of the island.

Beaches

Apart from sightseeing, Naxos is all about swimming. The coast north of Hora is rocky and is usually avoided, but if you go south, you will have a lot of coves to choose from. Agios Prokopios and Agia Anna offer the usual triptych of sun loungers, umbrellas and water sports (diving included). At the area of Marangas, below Agia Anna, are a series of small beaches

which you can explore one by one. On the west coast, the sand dunes which form Plaka beach attract nudists. Agiasos is a quiet beach overrun by families, while Apollonas at the north is protected from the winds. Naxos, like Paros, attracts windsurfers thanks to the summer meltemia winds that sweep the island. Beaches like Mikri Vigla are dotted with colourful sails swooshing up and down the waves. Mikri Ammos to the west is a beautiful sandy beach but it’s a long way out.

Products

Unlike the rest of the Cyclades, Naxos has a fertile land and agriculture is widely developed. The Naxiot potatoes are considered the best and are shipped to the supermarkets of mainland Greece. As you travel inland, you will discover the orchards and vineyards which produce wine, figs, olive oil and citrus. Another source of income comes from farming and islanders are proud to present their own cheese at the table. When eating out, ask for arseniko kefalotiri, graviera, glikia mizithra (all flavoursome cheeses) and order xinogalo to drink (a type of goat milk).

Accommodation: Camping Naxos (Tel: +3022850 23500) close to Agios Georgios beach is well organised. On the sea front of Agios Georgios, look for Pension Dimitra (Tel: +30 22850 24922). Argyra studios (Tel: +30 22850 41925) at Agios Prokopios has nicely decorated studios and a pool. Palatiana (Tel: +30 22850 22707) is a family run business which has developed agro-tourism at the Galini village. Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Naxos and Olympic Air flies daily to the island. For ferry and airline websites check the Getting to and from the islands section.

Since Naxiots eat what they produce, most tavernas serve good quality specialties from ingredients growing in their back garden. Lefteris in Apeiranthos offers delicious local specialties, Axiotisa on the way to Aliko village, is where you will find the best fish, and Pigi close to the village Ano Potamia, serves Greek fare in a garden surrounded by flowers. Palatia in Hora has excellent seafood; O Giorgis in Melanes is recommended for meat specialties. Back in Hora, the old Lucullus taverna on Agiou Nikolaou Street will present you with Naxiot specialties. In Halki, Yannis uses top local ingredient in large servings. In Agiasos, Vrahia taverna has polite waiters and well grilled meat. If you find yourself in Plaka, try Paradisos and Tria Adelfia, which specialise in casserole dishes.

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Paros

A place for everyone. Paros is a diverse place with room for everyone!

Paros

Right at the heart of the Cyclades, Paros beautifully combines aspects of all the other Cycladic islands; the striking white houses of Folegandros, the cosmopolitanism of Mykonos, the spirituality of Tinos, the variety of Naxos and the beaches of Ios. Since antiquity Paros has been known for its white marble, mined at the area of Marathi, five kilometres away from Parikia. The high quality marble proved very profitable through the centuries and was used to make three of the most celebrated sculptures in the world; the Venus de Milo (also known as Aphrodite of Milos, displayed at the Louvre), Hermes and the Infant Dionysus (also known as Hermes of Praxiteles, displayed at the Archaeological Museum of Olympia) and Nike of Samothrace (also at the Louvre). Mining stopped during the Byzantine era but restarted when the island was conquered by the Venetians. It continued uninterrupted until the late 19th century when the mine was closed down. The marble quarries have for the most part survived intact.

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Activities

Accommodation: Young Inn (Naoussa, Tel: +30 6942 834911, www.young-inn.com) is a well-organised hostel offering clean and cheap accommodation for young travellers. Panorama Hotel (Parikia, Tel: +30 22840 22830, www.panoramahotel.gr) has traditional Cycladic architecture and fully equipped rooms. In Lefkes, Lefkes Village (Tel: +30 22840 41.827, 42398, www.lefkesvillage.com) has classy houses with a view of the village while Kalypso (Tel: +30 22840 41583) offers deluxe rooms. Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Paros, and Olympic Air flies daily to the island. For ferry and airline websites check the “Getting to and from the islands” section.

What to do

As the boat approaches to the main port and town, Parikia, you are greeted by the old white windmill, a favourite meeting point for tourists before they embark on their nightly escapades. It is the liveliest part of the island, with hotels, cafés, shops and bars lining the seafront and many more scattered around the back streets. The island’s long history is exhibited in the small Archaeological Museum in Parikia (Tel: +30 22840 21231, open Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00). The most important find is a fragment of the Parian Chronicle, a chronology of key events in Greece from 1,500 BC to 264 BC but you will also see the torso of Artemis in motion, from the 4th century BC. Just behind the museum are the remains of three Hellenistic houses as well as beautiful mosaics from 88

Paros

the 3rd century BC. At the heart of the old town lies the Venetian castle built by Marco Sanudo, Venetian Duke of Naxos in 1260 AD using pieces of ancient tamples and other buildings. Walking around Parikia will inevitably bring you outside Panagia Ekatontapiliani (Tel: +30 22840 21243, church open 07:3021:30, museum open 09:30-14:00 & 18:0021:00) the 4th century compound comprised of three churches –Agios Nikolaos, the Church of Our Lady and the Baptistry– and a Byzantine museum. Naoussa on the north coast stands out with its scenic harbour and the whitewashed houses and shops. What started as a small fishing village has transformed into a lively town with its own gastronomic world and nightlife which somehow seems to attract a more eclectic (and older) crowd. Close to Naoussa is Kolimbithres, one of the most impressive beaches with light blue waters and smooth grey rocks. On the east coast are the tranquil villages of Piso Livadi and Loga-

ras. Both villages have sandy beaches, tavernas and cafés and are popular with families and those who want to avoid the crowded beaches further south. Piso Livadi has plenty of small bars to enjoy a cold beer in the evening and watch the sun set. Taking the road back to Parikia from Piso Livadi, you arrive at the mountain village of Lefkes, right in the middle of Paros. Picturesque Lefkes with its cubed whitewashed houses which resemble sugar lumps have resisted the pressures of package tourism maintaining its slow paced life and unspoilt architecture. The Church of Agia Triada made entirely of Parian white marble, is visible from every part of the village. If you’re in Paros at the end of August, do not miss the local panigiri on the 29th dedicated to Agios Yannis Kaparos. The celebrations spill out in the vineyards and orchards at the gardens of the local monastery. When you get hungry, find To Thasos for a home-cooked meal and a majestic view.

Paros is home to many sports, including water skiing, diving, horse-back riding, mountain-biking, Go-Karting, bungee jumping, beach volleyball and hiking. However, the most popular sports on the island are windsurfing and kitesurfing. In fact, the kitesurfing world cup is held here regularly and there are some top notch kitesurfing schools (www. paroskite-procenter.com) at Pounda beach for all aspiring athletes. Most sports facilities can be found at Santa Maria, Kolimbithres, Farangas and Monastiri. If you’re interested in discovering the underwater world of Paros, look no further than the Aegean Diving College (ADC) (Hrisi Akti, Tel: +30 22840 43347, +30 6932 289649, www.aegeandiving.gr) which offers courses and organises diving trips. ADC is run by Peter Nicolaides, an experienced diver, oceanographer, biologist and offshore engineer who has worked on expeditions with the National Geographic Foundation and Jacques Yves Cousteau. The coastal area is full of wrecks, interesting rock formations and caves, and ADC organises trips to all of them, depending on your diving skills.

Day trip

A popular day trip is crossing to Antiparos Island (1km southwest of Paros and the next island in the guide) the somewhat quieter sibling of Paros. The boats leave daily from the ferry quay of Pounda beach. The hinterland has several wetlands like Santa Maria, Molos, Hrisi Akti, Aliki and Kambos, which

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

to Levantis (Tel: +30 22840 23613) for a more refined Mediterranean cuisine. In Santa Maria, Caretta restaurant café (Tel: +3022840 53249) prepares vegan and vegetarian meals made mostly from ingredients cultivated by the two owners of the restaurant. You can lay in the hammock while you’re waiting for your order. In Naoussa, Papadakis restaurant serves delicious and refined Greek cuisine.

serve as heavens for migrating birds like cormorants and eagles. Unfortunately, many birds and other types of wildlife fall prey to hunters or are otherwise injured. In 1995 the Aegean Wildlife Hospital Alkioni (area of Kamares, Tel: +30 22840 22931, email: alkioniparos@yahoo.gr) opened its doors to treat wildlife from all over Greece. Since its opening it has expanded its facilities to deal with the increasing number of injured birds while at the same time trying to educate the public on environmental issues. You can organise a visit to the hospital by calling ahead or email them. The hospital is always in need of volunteers and donations, so feel free to help any way you can.

Nightlife

Where to eat

Just like Naxos, Paros has a significant agricultural production, starting from top quality olive oil, vegetables, fruits, gourmet cheeses like graviera, touloumisio and ladotiri and wine. Locals also think highly of the local capers added in Greek salads and the alcoholic drink souma, which resembles raki. The vineyards produce two local varieties of grapes, manthilaria (red) and monemvasia (white), which have been assigned the PDO tag (Protected Designation of Origin). Eating is a feast in Paros, which, like Mykonos and Naxos, offers a wide range of eateries and cuisines. At Thea ex Anatolon (Pounda, Tel: +30 22840 91220) you will eat excellent traditional Greek, Turkish and Anatolian dishes sitting at a romantic terrace overlooking Antiparos. For good fish and seafood –avoid 90

Paros

Paros is home to many sports, including water skiing, diving, horse-back riding, mountain-biking, Go-Karting, bungee jumping, beach volleyball and hiking.

the appetizers– choose Taverna Halari (Palio Livadi, Tel: +30 22840) which is jam-packed on high season, booking

recommended. In Parikia, try the creative seafood of the traditional taverna Porphyra (Tel: +30 22840 22693) or head

The bar crawls in Paros start at the waterfront of Parikia and continues where the music is louder. There are countless bars and clubs to choose from and sometimes the insane number of people gathering outside their doors means that one you choose may just be the one which you can actually get in. Saloon D’Or (Tel: +30 22840 22176) plays rock and reggae and has a friendly, chilled atmosphere. Pirate bar (Tel: +30 6979 194074) in Franca Scala is a cosy bar whose owner loves jazz and world music. The popular Evinos Bar (Tel: +30 22840 23026) is where most people enjoy their first drink of the evening. If you’re staying in Naoussa, start your evening at Tonic bar (Tel: +30 6937 195346) for some live music and a cold gin & tonic. Linardo night club in Parikia pays tribute to house music and gets busy after 3am. Pounda Beach club (Pounda, Tel: +30 22840 41717, www. pundabeach.gr) is a huge complex with non-stop music, swimming pools, bars, restaurants, a gym, live music gigs entertaining people all day and night.

Natural High

LifO e choic Paros

Stretch Pilates Peripheral road of Naoussa, Tel: +30 22840 55189 In a comfortable and friendly environment with a wonderful view over the bay of Naoussa you may enjoy four different types of massages, body therapies and depilation treatments. On the second level of Stretch Pilates, in a unified, simple area with wooden floors, you will find everything you need to practice classic Pilates. 01

Natural High Monastiri beach, Tel: +30 6944 745612 The islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hot spot with floating facilities which attract the water sports fanatics. The 4 boats, the wide range of equipment and games and the experienced trainers will offer you the ultimate experience either you choose to do a water sport or play a game. The venue offers lessons for beginners, specialising in small kids, but also for advanced levels. 02

Tonos Naoussa, Tel: +30 22840 53169, www.tonos-paros.gr On the central road of Naoussa is a modern store with tasteful furniture, smart decorative items, modern light fixtures, original accessories and linens for every room in the house. 03

Stretch Pilates

Saint Andrea Resort

Saint Andrea Resort Kolimbithres, Naoussa, +3022840 28890-4, www.st-andrea.gr On the road top Kolimbithres, at an idyllic location on the rocks, stands a resort complex of 56 rooms and suites which combine Cycladic architecture and French refinement offering high level services. 04

Tonos

Bit of Salt

Bit of Salt Naoussa, Tel: +30 22840 28625, Asteras,Tel: +30 22840 42757, www.bitofsalt.gr The only surf shop in Paros. Here you will find accessories and equipment for all water sports, but also a wide variety of beachwear, shoes and sunglasses for adults and kids. Other services are offered. 05

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Skiathos If you arrive by air, Skiathos will try to impress you even before you land. The aircraft –possibly a small one– flies for a while low, close to sea level, allowing you enough time to freak out but also take in the sparkly blue waters beneath before you finally see the runway. Skiathos belongs to Sporades (meaning “those scattered”) a small cluster of four islands in the North Aegean. These islands –Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos and Skiros– are the complete antithesis of the Cyclades. They have luscious green vegetation, pine forests and a different architecture, resembling the one found on the peninsula of Mount Pelio, the closest part of the mainland. In recent years, summer wildfires have reduced part of its forest to ashes but luckily nature is slowly recovering. The island never lacked tourists, but the release of the movie Mama Mia in 2008, which was in part filmed on the island, further boosted its appeal. 92

Skiathos

What to do

Skiathos gets very busy in July and August, with large number of package tourists and youngsters flooding the streets and beaches. The island lacks the variety of cultural attractions found on other islands, but there are some interesting sights you should not miss. As you approach the port of Skiathos, you will see to your left a small peninsula jutting from the mainland. This is Bourtzi, an area which once housed fortifications. In 1906 the building was turned into a school and nowadays it is used to house cultural events. Skiathos town was not always the capital. The original settlement was in a fortified castle at the north of the island which was built to defend the islanders against pirates and other attackers from 1540 to 1829. The whole

area is now abandoned and most of the buildings are ruined. To get there, you can take the boat to Kastro beach and walk up the rest of the road. The house of Alexandros Papadiamantis (Papadiamantis square, Tel: +30 24270 23843, open Tue-Sun 09:00-13:00 and 17:00-20:00) a prominent Greek writer who wrote more than 100 novels and shaped Greek literature, is situated 80 metres from the eastern port. The two-storey, well-preserved mansion was built in 1860 and today serves as a museum and a centre showcasing his work. All the objects, furniture and clothes are original and were donated by the relatives of the writer for the museum. After a 20 minute walk from the port you will see the Monastery of Evangelistria, (Tel: +30 2470 22012) built in the

18th century. It houses an impressive number of manuscripts, religious objects and relics, as well as a cultural centre. Locals claim this is where the first Greek flag was made in 1807 (long before the official start of the War of Independence against the Ottomans).

Beaches

The beaches on the island provide unexpected scenery, with pines growing close to the water, providing much needed shade. Koukounaries with its blue-green waters is the most famous beach on the island and has the usual sun loungers and umbrellas. Come early if you want to find a square of sand to lay your towel. Just behind the beach is the wetland of Koukounaries and Strofilia lagoon, an amazing natural habitat protected by the European Union. Five kilometres from town, Kanapitsa beach is less crowded and offers scuba diving. The strangely named Big Banana is filled with youngsters flirting and sunbathing, while Small Banana nearby is available for nudism. Vromolimnos is a narrow beach with clear blue waters and pines growing right behind your umbrella. It has beach bars at the back and can get very busy after noon. Northeast of the island is Lalaria, a dreamy beach with turquoise waters, surrounded by white cliffs. The only way to get there is by boat, which leaves the port daily – if the wind permits it. Aselinos is a less crowded large beach with a camping site nearby. For a bit more privacy, head to Agia Eleni and Manthraki to the west of the island.

Where to eat

Eating can be a challenge on Skiathos because many eateries inside the town serve average touristy fare. Stick to the area around Tris Ierarhes church or the old port and you should be safe from any gastronomic nightmares. Medousa (old port) is an Italian restaurant baking really good pizzas. Taverna Amfiliki (Tel: +30 24270 22839) is renowned for

its seafood and good local wine. In Vromolimnos, Taverna Lia serves Greek cuisine with some international touches in an open terrace. Taverna Folia (Tel: +30 24270 23196) has tasty mezedes and casserole specialties.

Nightlife

After 10pm, groups of similarly dressed youngsters flood the streets looking for a cheap drink at the bar –

any bar. If you’re over 30, you might prefer to go to Kentavros bar (Papadiamantis square, Tel: +30 24270 22980) which plays funk and jazz and serves decent drinks. Another decent option is Rock n’ Roll bar at the old port; it opens early for coffee and continues through the night with drinks and oldies music. To check out the clubbing scene, go to the eastern side of the town, after the marina, where you will find the classic Kahlua club. Loud techno music, guest DJs and women dancing on the bar in teeny weeny garments constitute a typical night. The other two popular nightclubs are Kavos and BBC which are packed until 6am.

Accommodation: The best accommodation is found outside the main town. Budget: Koukounaries Camping (Tel: +30 24270 49250) is a clean, organised camping area where all youngsters reside. Mandraki Village (close to Koukounaries beach, Tel: +30 24270 49301, www. mandraki-skiathos.gr) is a luxury hotel with views over the beach, pools and beautiful gardens. Bourtzi hotel (8 Moraitou street, Tel: +30 24270 21304, www.hotelbourtzi.gr) has beautiful modern rooms, restaurant and pool. At the main town, Hotel Akti (Tel: +30 24270 22024) is strategically located at the port. Getting there: There are many daily ferry services connecting Skiathos to Volos, Agios Konstantinos and Thessaloniki. By air, the island is served by local and some international airlines. For ferry and airline websites check the Getting to and from the islands section.

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Syros Elegant, busy and full of history, Syros is unlike any other Cycladic island. Inhabited since antiquity, it linked its fortune with the Venetians who took control of island in 1207 and stayed until their defeat from the Ottomans, leading it to a period of great economic development and the formation of the largest community of Catholics in Greece. Apart from tourism, the local economy is based on agriculture, ship-building and services, giving Syros a less touristy feel. 94

Syros

What to do

The capital and main port, Ermoupoli, is the administrative centre of the South Aegean region and is spread out from the port to the nearby hills. The Catholic neighbourhood of Ano Syros is nestled to the left of the hill and the Orthodox neighbourhood of Vrodado to the right. The name means the city of Hermes, the ancient Greek god who protected commerce, travellers

and thieves. Platia Miaouli, the central square of Ermoupolis, is surrounded by shops and cafĂŠs, restored neoclassical buildings, trees and flocks of pigeons flying overhead. At one side stands the majestic town hall, the work of German architect Ernst Ziller, who designed, among others, the Presidential Mansion in Athens. The same building also houses the small Archaeological Museum (separate entrance on the west side,

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Accommodation: Ipatia Guesthouse (3, Babagiotou street, Ermoupoli, Tel: +30 22810 83575) overlooks the bay and has beautiful spacious rooms, Lila Guesthouse (Ano Syros, www.guesthouse. gr) is a beautiful restored mansion with tall ceilings in a quiet area, Ethrion (Ermoupoli, Tel: +30 22810 89066, www.ethrion.gr) offers clean, pretty apartments just 10 metres from the port. Syrou Melathron (5, Babagiotou, Vaporia, Tel: +22810 86495) is a luxury hotel housed in a 19th century mansion. Getting there: There are many direct, daily ferry services connecting Piraeus and Lavrio port with Syros. Check the “Getting to and from the islands” section for ferry websites.

Tel: +30 22810 88487, open Tue-Sun 08:3015:00) which presents a collection of artefacts excavated in the area of Halandriani, as well as Roman and Hellenistic sculptures and vases. Walking around town you will see Apollon Theatre (Vardaki square), built in 1862-1864 on designs made by French architect Chabeau. At the edge of Ermoupolis stand the chimneys and cranes of the town’s old industrial centre which housed the old ship yards. Three of these buildings form the Industrial Museum (Tel: +30 22810 81243, 84762) housing a collection of 20 machines, components and other objects that testify to the city’s industrial heritage. Further up the hill from Ermoupolis is Vaporia, an affluent part of town where the old mansions of Greek ship magnates dominate with their huge doors and marble floors. The prettiest quarter is 96

Syros

Ano Syros which has a completely different architecture from Ermoupolis. Built in the 13th century to protect the Venetian population, its houses form a residential fortress with the Catholic Cathedral of Agios Georgios dominating the village. The majestic view of the port from the Cathedral is worth the huffing and puffing you will endure from the countless stairs leading to it. The village is steeped in its medieval past, with narrow alleys and archways leading you to small squares, pretty flowered yards and meandering

alleys where kids play all day. The highlights of the village include the Monastery of the Capuchins built in 1653 and further up the alley the Monastery of the Jesuits. Ano Syros is also the home of the prominent Greek musician and rebetiko composer Markos Vamvakaris who wrote Frangosyriani. His museum (Tel: +30 22813 60914, open daily from 11:00-14:00 and from 19:00-22:00) showcases pictures and personal objects donated by his relatives as well as original manuscripts of his songs.

Beaches

The beaches of Syros may not be as impressive as in other islands but they are also less noisy, with clean blue waters. The most popular are the long sandy Galissas, the fishing village of Kini, busy Agathopes filled with sun loungers and thatched umbrellas, the sheltered bay of Vari and Azolimnos. To enjoy more privacy and reach beaches you have to take one of the boats that leave daily from Ermoupoli or rent a car. Armeos is a nudist beach found just a few minutes’ walk from Galissas, while one kilometre from Agathopes is the quiet beach of Komito. On your way to Kini, you will see a sign leading you to Lotos beach, filled with tamarisks for ample shade. Other crowd-less options include the midsized beaches of Grammata in the northwest, Varvarousa and Aetos. Between Azolimnos and Vari are the hidden beaches of Santorini and Fabrica. At the southwestern part of the island, Finikas beach has a few umbrellas and trees to hide from the sun as well as a cement platform on one end which serves as a playing ground for teenagers. From Finikas beach you can also reach the small, sandy Kokkini Paralia.

Taste

The capital and main port, Ermoupoli, is the administrative centre of the South Aegean region and is spread out from the port to the nearby hills.

The Italian influences are evident in the local gastronomy. There are plenty of Italian restaurants around the island and some Italian elements have been incorporated in local recipes. You wouldn’t think of eating at a restaurant located smack in the middle of the port, but Amvix (26, Akti Papagou street, Tel: +30 22810 83989) is an

The beaches of Syros may not be as impressive as in other islands but they are also less noisy, with clean blue waters.

exception. Amvix is an Italian restaurant housed in an old distillery and makes excellent pizzas and pasta. To complete your dive into Italian cuisine, near Amvix is the Italian-owned gelateria Daidadi (Platia Papagou, Tel: +30 22810 85953) serving fresh ice cream with interesting names like imperial fig, Cuban chocolate and honeymoon. For traditional Aegean specialties like beef with plums head to Arhodariki (8 Emmanouil Roidi street, Tel: +30 22810 86771, 85946). Right across Apollon theatre is the lovely courtyard of To Oniro (Platia Theatrou, Tel: +30 22810 79416) a modern, chic restaurant and bar offering Mediterranean dishes made with local ingredients. In Ano Syros, a wooden gate leads to To Plakostroto (area of San Mihalis, Tel: +30 6973 980248),

a simple taverna full of charm, with panoramic views of the Grammata bay and large-size portions of oven cooked specials. At the waterfront of Kini village, find Thio tzitzikia sta almirikia (Tel: +30 22810 71151) where you can enjoy the sunset eating seafood and fresh salads. Also in Kini is the white veranda of Allou Yialou (Tel: +30 22810 71196, open from 12:30) whose menu includes seafood, fresh fish and local specialties. No meal is complete without a dessert and that’s why you should continue your evening at Stis Ninetas (Ermoupoli, 13 Emmanouil Roidi street, near OTE building, Tel: + 30 22810 87119) who makes her own cakes and cream pies. For a complete picture of Syros’s culinary world, try the local loukoumia (Turkish delights) and halvathopita (a flat type

LifO e choyriocs

of pie with nougat) found in every bakery in town and also the cheeses San Mihali and kopanisti.

Nightlife

Nightlife in Syros is centred on Miaouli square and the seafront of Ermoupolis. Mammo wine & food bar (38a, Akti Petrou Ralli, Tel: +30 22810 76416) is a narrow venue on the waterfront serving food and drinks later in the evening. Baba bar (1, Milou street) is a mainstream cocktail bar in central Ermoupoli. In the picturesque Ano Syros, go to Kafepotion, a quiet coffee shop offering desserts and doubles as a bar in the evening with incredible views over the port. For a quiet night out, the beautiful Pallas cinema (Tel: +30 22810 82313) plays mainstream films with Greek subtitles every night.

Diogenis Hotel Syros Platia Papagou, Ermoupoli, Tel: +30 22810 86301, www.diogenishotel. com The hotel Diogenis was built in the 19th century and is a characteristic example of architecture that prevailed in Syros at the time, with obvious neoclassical Venetian influences. In the winter of 2013 the hotel was completely renovated to combine its neoclassical architecture with a minimalist décor. The result is a superb 4 star boutique hotel, which strives to offer the best possible services to its guests. 01

Piramatiko Miaouli square, Syros, Tel: +30 22810 83734 A friendly all-day venue which offers some of the best coffee in the Cyclades. In the afternoon it turns into an atmospheric bar with rock, soul, funk and mainstream music. The cocktails here are really good. 03

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

Serifos Serifos is a very dry island, even by Cycladic standards. As you approach Serifos, you see the white, sugar-lump like houses of Hora, the islandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; main town, covering the hillside like spilled

Serifos

milk. According to the myth, Serifos was first inhabited by the Cyclops, the mythical one-eyed monsters that opened and worked the local iron mines, producing wealth for the island, which they later passed on to humans. On a more realistic note, archaeological evidence shows the island was inhabited in turn by the Cretans, Phoenicians and the Mycenaeans.

What to do

There’s a fairly organised bus service connecting the port, Livadi, to Hora, but the best idea is to rent a car so that you can discover the many beaches scattered around the island. Right next to Livadi is the crescentshaped Avlomonas beach, one of the busiest on the island. Livadakia beach is only a short walk away from the port and further south is the wide, sandy Karavi beach, preferred by nudists. North of the port is Lia beach, the popular and noisy Psili Ammos and the sandy, long Agios Ioannis. On the south-western coast is Megalo Livadi, a seafront village next to the abandoned iron mines. Close to Megalo Livadi is another secluded cove called Malliathiko. North of Megalo Livadi

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Serifos

AccomModation: Coralli Camping (Livadakia beach, Tel: +30 22810 51500) is a fully organised beachside site with tents, bungalows, a mini market and a small restaurant. Indigo studios (Livadi, Tel: +30 22810 52548) offer clean, reasonably priced rooms and apartments. SFor understated luxury which respects the environment, book at Coco-Mat Eco Residences (Vaya beach, Tel: +30 211 7709305) which are houses in the renovated houses of the miners. Getting there: There are many direct, daily ferry services connecting Piraeus port with Serifos. Check the “Getting to and from the islands” section for ferry websites.

In Serifos there is no obstruction between the sky blue and the blinding white of the architecture.

Serifos has numerous beaches, scuba diving facilities and easy going but great nightlife.

is the quiet and pebbled Avessalos beach. South of Psili Ammos is Agios Sostis beach located on one side of a small rocky peninsula. On the south coast is the pebbled and secluded Ganema beach

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Serifos

and right next to it is the sandy Vaya, where you have to bring an umbrella as there is not one green leaf in site. On the southeastern tip of the coast is Kalo Ambeli, a small cove formed by two

jutting rock formations, where you will probably be alone. Bring water and food. Driving to the north-east is the small Kendarhos beach (follow the path from Kallitsos village) with its few tam-

arisks providing muchneeded shade. Last but not least, Sykamia beach on the north-west is a popular place dotted with the colourful umbrellas of tourists. For those who seek a little action

on the beach, try Serifos Scuba Divers (Livadi, Tel: +30 22810 522005, www.serifosscubadivers. gr), who organise diving trips, walks into the old mines of Megalo Livadi and all water sports, including the newest craze, Flyboard. Hora is a beautiful, quiet village with archetypi-

cal Cycladic architecture and friendly locals. The ruined 15th century Venetian castle towering the village offers a great opportunity for a walk and panoramic views of the island and beyond. Right on the top of the steep hill is the church of Agios Constantinos. Back in the village, the neoclas-

Scuba diving is essential if you are going to Serifos. Ask for a training session with one of the fully trained divers.

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Serifos

sical town hall and the small Archaeological Museum (Tel: +30 22810 31022) are worth a visit. A nearby neoclassical house houses the folk Art Museum (open from 18:00-21:00), where local costumes and tolls are exhibited. Behind the building thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an open-air theatre with 300 seats, which houses the

annual music festival. In 2013, the festival will be held from 26/7 until 20/8 and will host concerts by famous Greek artists like Christos Thiveos, Gerasimos Andreatos, Manolis Famellos and Fivos Delivorias. Walking around the alleys of Hora, you will find the small concept store Thidira (Tel: +20 22810 51880),

which sells handmade ceramic objects, jewellery, clothes and accessories. At the north of Hora is the deserted settlement of Pyrgos which comes to life on the festival (panigiri) held on Assumption day (August 15). In the village of Megalo Livadi, the old buildings and rails are a testament to the once lively community of the miners who lived and worked in the area. You can still visit the abandoned mines which closed in 1963 and see the old loading bridge rusting under the hot sun. The food served around the island is very decent but lacks variation. In Livadi, O Perseas (Tel: +30 22810 51273) has excellent Greek classics, while Metalleio (Tel: +30 22810 51755, restaurant open 20:30-24:00) opens in the evening with modern cuisine and after mid-

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Serifos

night turns into a bar and concert venue. Karnaya bar on the port plays mainly hits from the 70s and 80s. In Hora, the small Stou Stratou café (Tel: +30 22810 52566) is the island’s meeting place. For a drink and a sunset view, head to Cafe bar Sunrise (still in Hora). Good drinks and funk music can be found at the lovely Aerino bar (Hora, Tel: +30 22810 52592) where you should seek a seat at the terrace. The island’s main nightlife scene is centred in the port where a few bars line the seafront. Serifos Yacht Club (Tel: +30 22810 51888) in Livadi is a popular café which doubles as a bar in the evening, and Captain Hook bar is more of a dance venue with Greek music in the wee hours.

The LifO Islands Guide 2013

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LifO e chorifiocs

Serifos Scuba Divers

Strobelli

Serifos Scuba Divers Livadi, Tel: +30 22810 52005, 6932570552, www.serifosscubadivers.gr The modern equipment and experienced staff of Serifos’s diving centre will help you discover the hidden underwater wonders of the island. Among the services offered are diving lessons for beginners and experienced divers, water sports, canoe and taxi rentals, and one-day boat trips. 01

Barbara’s

Barbara’s Tel: +30 6974828715, +30 22810 52390 At the centre of Serifos’s market is a store offering everything you need for the beach and your fun, as well as international brands, accessories and tasteful souvenirs of the island in very reasonable prices. 02

Strobelli Livadi, Tel: +30 22810 52670 The owners focus on quality Italian products to create amazing delicacies. Visit the store throughout the day to try delicious sandwiches, meats selection, bruschettas, fresh salads, tasty ice cream and of course Italian aperitifs, like Aperol Spritz and you will definitely visit again and again. 03

Yacht club Livadi, Tel: +30 2281051888 A traditional Greek coffee shop with a fabulous view of the sea and excellent traditional and local delicacies like spoon sweats, biscuits and of course good coffee.

Aliktipo studios

Calma

Serifos Beach Hotel

Shark

Calma Livadi, Tel: +30 22810 52328 A new, modern venue in Serifos with a relaxed atmosphere. It is located over Livadi beach and has sun loungers and tables where you can enjoy yourself eating good breakfast and drinking coffee. In early afternoon, Calma operates as a restaurant offering seafood 05

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Serifos

while in the evening the atmosphere becomes mellower and more romantic.

with coffee, light snacks and offers relaxed drinks in the evening.

Aliktipo studios Livadi, Tel: +30 22810 51000 Modern, comfortable and fully equipped rooms with a tasteful decoration. They are located just 50 metres from Livadi beach and offer views over the town of Serifos.

Coralli Camping Livadakia, Tel: +30 22810 51500 A fully equipped camping area located in a spot which combines both the sea breeze and the lush vegetation of the island. The camping includes a restaurant, a bar, a mini market, a coffee shop, a grill etc. The toilets and showers are squeaky clean and there are also washing machines and dryers and cooking areas.

Shark Livadi, Tel: +30 6932411657, facebook. com/SharkClubSerifos A cute bar opening to a small balcony overlooking the entire bay of Livadi. The bar opens early with easy listening and lounge music while later in the evening it turns louder and the fun reaches new heights. 07

Serifos Beach Hotel Livadi, Tel: +30 22810 51209, www.serifosbeach.gr A hotel which focuses on good service and the utmost comfort of its guests, offering tasteful, quiet and clean rooms in an area close to Serifosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nightlife. 08

Indingo 09 Livadi, Tel: +30 22810 51956 A well-known, all day cafĂŠ bar exactly over the beach of Livadi. Apart from light snacks and cold dishes you will also find delicious crepes, waffles and fresh homemade desserts. Sit either at the small green yard, or on the comfy sofas outside, right on the sand. Indingo pano piazza Hora, Tel: +30 22810 52566 A new arrival in Serifos, located on the central square of Hora, right across the neoclassical city hall of Serifos. It opens in the morning 10

Krinas Rent A Car

Coralli Camping

Coralli Apartments Livadakia, Tel: +30 22810 51500 Just 100 metres from the sea (and 5 minutes from the port) stand these beautiful apartments which have room for up to 6 people, with all available amenities. Some of them include a living room, kitchen, personal toilet, safes, air condition, TV, fridge. You can enjoy a view over the beautiful garden and sea.

Coralli Apartments

Coralli Bungalows Livadakia, Tel: +30 22810 51500 Located at the centre of the island, just 5 minutes from the port, these bungalows have either one or two rooms and can host 2 to 4 people. They are fully equipped with air condition, TV and safes and offer a view over the garden.

Coralli Bungalows

Indingo

Krinas Rent A Car Livadakia, Tel: +30 2281051488 Here you can choose your preferred transport vehicle through a comprehensive list of cars and motorcycles. You may pick up and return the car from your preferred location. 14

Indingo pano piazza

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Off the beaten track

Apart from the widely known islands which attract the bulk of visitors, the last couple of decades attention has shifted towards smaller and lesser known islands, like Anafi, Ikaria, Kimolos, Koufonisia and Folegandros, to name but a few. These have become favourite destinations for people who are tired of the usual tourist trail and are eager to lay their towel on a secluded beach and explore villages which offer a glimpse of traditional life. Some of these islands may require three days to discover, others can be criss-crossed in 24 hours. You do not need a guide for these islands. All you need is reasonable shoes, plenty of sunblock and an adventurous spirit.

Anafi is a small gem

of an island, better known as the next boat stop after Santorini. Its proximity to its famous neighbour (just an hour on the ferry) has rendered it increasingly popular, so go there while it’s still unharmed from mass tourism. The island is

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Off the beaten track

perfect for relaxation and to that end it boasts some beautiful beaches like Megalos Roukounas, the longest and busiest, Klisidi –a small cove with a whitewashed chapel overlooking the beach– as well as the more secluded Flamorou and Katsouni. Its main village, Hora, is a 10-minute bus ride

away from the port, Agios Nikolaos. A whiff of oregano floods your nostrils all over Anafi and it is said that the island produces some of the best thyme honey. Make sure you buy some, together with a variety of Mediterranean herbs from the tourist shops at the main port. The island’s geological highlight is a tall monolithic rock jutting from the eastern end of Anafi. The 420-metre formation is Mt Kalamos and on top sits an abandoned monastery, which offers indescribable views of the Aegean. If you like hiking it is well worth the walk, but start early in the day to avoid the heat of noon and bring water and food. For more information check www.anafi.gr.

Ikaria is an oddball of an island, mostly preferred by laidback youngsters. It belongs to the North-eastern cluster of islands and with a size of 255 square km is considered as medium sized. Ikarians are known for their longevity (the island was added to the Blue Zones of the planet, places where many people live over 90) and their unique sense of time, which is a diplo-

matic way of saying that shops open and close at irregular times – some open at noon, others at night and others choose to close at 3am. Life is definitely easy going and if you’re ok with that, you will enjoy your stay on the island. There are two ports, Evdilos and Agios Kirikos - the quiet capital of the island and a good place to start your walks. The best time to visit is during one of Ikaria’s famous panigiria (festivals held on saints’ days). The most famous is held at the village of Hristos Rahes on the 6th of August, when celebrations are known to turn wild with traditional music and locals dancing the famed Ikariotikos dance. The island also celebrates on the 15th of August at Langadas village. Ikaria’s famed hot mineral springs are reputed to relieve symptoms of arthritis and rheumatism and are located at Therma, just outside of the Agios Kirikos. The island’s best beaches are at Armenistis, Nas –preferred by nudists– and Prioni, formed by a series of secluded natural coves. Wind surfers prefer Mesakti for its strong winds and golden

sand and Seychelles is a beach at southern Ikaria whose nickname aptly describes it. One point to remember is that sea currents in Ikaria can be very strong and a number of drownings have been reported. Make sure you have a second person watching you while you’re in the water and avoid swimming if the wind is strong. Take a day trip to nearby Fourni islands to complete your experience. For more information check www. island-ikaria.com.

Kimolos is an island that time also seems to have forgotten. Life here moves slowly with locals gathering in quaint squares and children playing carelessly for hours. Horio –the main village– is a pleasant surprise, with its winding streets, picturesque squares and flower-filled yards with striking fuchsia bougainvilleas growing against white walls. Go there by noon and the only sound you will hear in the village is the monotonous buzz of the cicadas which seem to disregard the quiet hours. The rest of the island’s settlements are inhabited mostly during the summer and include the small port of Psathi, and the sandy beaches of Prasa, Goupa, Aliki, Dekas and Bonatsa. Sights of interest include the fortress of Paleokastro at the centre of the island and further down you will see the massive, mushroomshaped stone formation called Skiadi. In Horio, the small Archaeological Museum traces the history of the island through many artefacts and pictures, while the 19th century church of Panagia Odigitria right across the museum houses the old Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary. Along

the coast of Kimolos you will often find fishermen repairing their nets and cleaning their boats. Take a day trip to uninhabited Poliegos Island for a swim at its beautiful beaches and explore the abandoned monastery and the lighthouse. Kimolos can be reached by daily ferry services from nearby Milos. For more information check www. kimolos.gr.

Little Cyclades

are a cluster of mainly five small islands - Iraklia, Shinousa, Donousa and Koufonisia. To make the most of them, avoid the busy season of July and August. Iraklia is not particularly scenic but has Livadi beach where most tourists stop for a swim. Shinousa is a prettier island and owes its beauty to the simplicity of the landscape and the tranquil lifestyle. If you’re serious about escaping modernity, this is the island for you, as it has no nightlife, no banks and no fuel stations. It does have a number of clean beaches spread along its coastline. The biggest of the group, Donousa, is an island chosen for its golden beaches, quiet lifestyle and ample free camping space at Kedros, Kalotaritisa and Livadi.

business. Your walk will bring you to the medieval kastro (=castle), whose walls nowadays form part of the surrounding houses. There are several small tavernas and cafés scattered around the village offering traditional food (soft souroto cheese, matsata spaghetti) and desserts (sweet watermelon pie) to hungry visitors. The second settlement is the agricultural Ano Meria, where you can visit the Folk Art Museum. Hikers will enjoy the clearly marked footpaths criss-crossing the dry land. Folegandros does not have many beaches but those who do exist are crystal clear.

Two of them are reachable by car: Karavostasi – the main port and the beaches close to it - and sandy Angali, but for the rest you will need to walk along dirt paths for as long as an hour, or take one of the little boats who service them. Remember to carry plenty of water and a few sandwiches as none of those beaches have shops nearby. Accommodation is not cheap and the island only has one ATM, so remember to bring cash. You can rent a car or motorcycle at the port of Hora. For more information check www. folegandros.gr

Folegandros is the

new hit of the Aegean, with its rocky, dry landscape and scenic main village attracting eclectic visitors. The meandering alleys of Hora, perched on a high rock overlooking the Aegean, lead the visitor through three consecutive small squares, flanked by whitewashed houses and colourful wooden doors. Cars are thankfully not allowed in the village so the only traffic you will encounter is locals going about their

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this, you could perhaps camp out on a remote beach, but remember that you run the risk of being harassed by the police or a local home/ tavern owner. The best bet for a safe camp is to choose a destination off the mainstream tourist’s radar, like Anafi, Ikaria and the Little Cyclades. The unwritten rule for campers is to leave the site exactly as you found it – even if the spot had the odd plastic bottle here and there. Take a last look around before you leave, making sure you have not forgotten any garbage and discard any items in the appropriate bins. Tourists often looked puzzled by signs or announcements made by boat owners that a trip to a certain beach is cancelled because of “bad weather”, when in fact there’s not a single cloud in the sky and the sun is glaring down on you. They are referring to the winds. In most islands during the summer – and especially in Cyclades – Northern winds (known as meltemia) can be too strong for small boats to navigate around rocky peninsulas, especially when they’re packed with tourists. Boat owners choose to play it safe so that you don’t throw up in their caique. Choose a beach at a walking distance for the day and try again tomorrow. To avoid disappointment, do not leave the best (and furthest) beach for last. If the sea is calm on your first day on the island, go to the one which is only approached by boat. You never know when the winds will pick up. 05

Useful tips There are a few things you need to know before you embark on your dream holiday. Items that will prove useful on your trip: Apart from sunblock, sunglasses, walking shoes and a broad-rimmed sun hat, you should also bring plenty of mosquito repellents (creams, lotions, etc.), a universal plug adapter and one or two good reads for the beach or your longer or shorter boat trips to and from the islands. 01

Ladies, I know your swimsuits are beautiful, but make sure you are wearing appropriate clothing when visiting 02

a church or monastery. A trousers or skirt to cover your thighs and a shirt will do the trick. Men should also wear a T-shirt and long trousers. Excluding religious sites, you are urged to be sartorially adventurous. Nudism it is not illegal in Greece but there is a law against “breaching public morality.” The law is rather vague but essentially means you cannot be naked in public. However it is widely tolerated provided you abide to the 03

basic rule of choosing a secluded beach (i.e. with no families around). In a handful of islands you may find sign posts on the beach, designating it as nudism-friendly. Generally, the more isolated the beach, the more likely it is to be populated by nudists. A good source of information is the tourists who have been on the island longer than you. Ask the couple eating breakfast next to you in the small café and you’ll probably get some reliable tips (unless they came with the same boat you did). Free camping is forbidden. You are only allowed to camp in official camping sites which exist in all the above islands. Having said 04

Was it helpful? Feel free to send your feedback, comments, curses and anything else to the editor: Daphne Papadopoulou at daphnepa@gmail.com 112

Useful tips