Athens and the Greek islands for visitors Summer 2018
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Athens Tinos Mykonos Santorini Syros Serifos
Crete
Andros Hydra Aegina Skiathos Lefkada
Contents Publisher
Stathis Tsagkarousianos
Editor in Chief Michalis Michael
Articles Editor
Christos Paridis Dafne Papadopoulou
Designers
Yannis Karlopoulos Christos Tzovaras Rinétta Koskinidou
Photographers Paris Tavitian Spyros Staveris Filippos Lemonis Shutterstock Εurokinissi
Coordination
Xenia Stasinopoulou
Sales
Demetra Pasomenou Kostas Mantas Isidora Genouzou George Lykourgiotis Konstantina Triantafyllou Summer 2018
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DYO DEKA EKDOTIKI SA 22 Voulis st. Syntagma Square Athens 105 61, Greece www.lifo.gr For queries or comments email us at info@lifo.gr Athens–1
Welcome
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LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
to Athens
Summer 2018
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1—Events Culture alert!
A selection of exhibitions and live performances for (even more) exciting summer days and nights in Athens.
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Herodium Atticus Theatre
Summer 2018
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The Countless Aspects of Beauty
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—National Archaeological Museum
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elebrating 150 years from the inauguration of its emblematic building along with a rich, dynamic and fruitful presence in the Greek and international scientific community, the National Archaeological Museum presents its new temporary exhibition The Countless Aspects of Beauty. An homage to the timeless virtue of Beauty and of how it was visually perceived through art in the ancient world, the exhibition highlights the different expressions of aesthetics in heterogeneous social and cultural environments from the Neolithic Era to late antiquity, utilizing a diverse variety of exhibits from the permanent collection of the museum (part of it usually hidden in its storage). A source of inexhaustible inspiration and a cause of deep aesthetic emotion, Beauty is visually reflected in the ancient works of art, constituting a constantly changing image in the his-
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tory of human creation that is recognized and admired by the modern spectator due to its eternal values. The exhibition, which doors will remain open until spring of 2019, is presented in a special section where 340 astonishing pieces of antiquities accompanied by digital applications will offer an impressive aesthetic journey to the past. Dedicated to Aphrodite, goddess of beauty, the show is divided into four parts. By entering the exhibition area, you will be welcomed by two works of art; a sculpture of a woman’s head from the island of Milos, dated back to the Fifth Century BC, and across it an Aphrodite statuette of a young Eros by her side. The first part of the show is entitled Eternal aesthetics and one encounters selected objects of everyday life that recount the continuous alternations and different facets of aesthetics in human history. The narrative continues in the second part entitled The beautiful and the desirable where a
number of archaeological findings related to clothing, ancient cosmetics and ways of beautification, as well as hairstyles are presented, while the third part Focusing on the Body, consists of unique pieces of sculpture that starts in the Neolithic era followed by the evolution of art in classical Athens. Here is encountered the depiction of the beauty of human body and the way it inspired the artists of the first Neolithic communities up to the highly and elaborated artistic achievements in historic times. And finally the last part entitled The endless quest is projecting the everlasting aesthetic anguish of man on the significance of the beautiful and its value in the human society. A number of statues from the Hellenistic period enlighten the leap from the ancient world to the new age that rose thereafter. Among the age-old secrets of Aphrodite that are presented in the exhibition, the museum reveals for the first time a completely unknown
part of women’s ‘artillery’ of beauty, which is no other than perfumes. In collaboration with the Korres Company, three different perfumes were created that were inspired by information gathered from ancient sources. The exhibition will be accompanied by many experimental workshops throughout its duration. Scientists, artists and craftsmen from Greece and abroad will offer their special knowledge to explain to visitors their experimental approaches to Neolithic weaving, the clothing in the Aegean during the second millennium BC, Mycenaean costume, the multicolor of the ancient sculptures and the rendering of Beauty in the ancient Greek music.
“The countless aspects of Beauty” 26/5-31/10, National Archaeological Museum,44 Patission st. www.namuseum.gr
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George Condo at Cycladic —Museum of Cycladic Art
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America in the 1980s. Balancing between the beautiful and the grotesque, the mundane and the absurd, the high art and the pop art, Condo is one of the most inventive artists of his generation and one of the most important figurative sculptors and painters of our days. The exhibition “George Condo at Cycladic”, though not a retrospective, is achieving to reveal the references and ideas as well as the mastered skills adopted by the artist during a long career. Having created a very personal artistic style, infused with literary, musical and art
historical interests, his art is a reflection of the self - or as he puts it himself, of our multiple selves; an extension of a profoundly charismatic, cultivated, and with a great sense of humor contemporary artist. The exhibition at the Cycladic Museum is a microcosm of Condo’s figures consisted of cheeky grins, goggle eyes, rows of teeth, and budding heads highlighted in black ink or in bursts of yellow, green, purple and orange. Among other works are included the emblematic sculptures Totemic Personage (2012) Nude on Wine Crates 2 (2016),
Internal Space (2005), and the paintings Homeless Harlequins (2004), Grinning Harlequin (2005), and Laughing Priest (2004) in which the artist unveils the daily absurdities of life through a cast of characters that inhabit his mind. Finally, the monumental work Paper Faces (1997) in which Condo concentrates almost all the characteristic motifs of his work.
George Condo at Cycladic, 8/6-14/10, Museum of Cycladic Art, 4 Neofytou Douka str. www.cycladic.gr
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eorge Condo’s first extended personal exhibition in Greece hosted by the Museum of Cycladic Art presents 30 paintings, sculptures and drawings of his 20 years’ career. A series of major paintings and drawings created in 2017 are also added, including a rare suite of self-portraits titled Self-portrait in Paris 1-3 and Me, Myself and Him. American artist George Condo along with JeanMichel Basquiat, Keith Haring, and Jeff Koons, played a decisive role in reviving figurative art in
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1—Events
Joan Leigh Fermor: Artist and Lover —Benaki Museum
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oan Leigh Fermor was a talented photographer of architecture and landscapes but above all a restless rebel. Joan Elizabeth Eyres Monsell was born in Dumbleton and she was the daughter of the Conservative Member of Parliament Bolton Eyres Monsell. She was well educated and attended finishing schools in Paris and Florence. Her early pictures were published in Architectural Review and Horizon. During the Second World War, she was commissioned to photograph buildings that were in danger to be bombed. She ended taking brilliant images of the London Blitz. At the start of the war she
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also worked as a nurse but subsequently she was trained in encryption and worked in the British embassies in Madrid, Algiers and Cairo where in 1944 she met Patrick Leigh Fermor, a highly acclaimed, due to his contribution in the kidnapping of General Kreipe in Crete, SOE officer. Even though she was married to John Rayners, features editor of the Daily Express at the time, she fell in love with Fermor whom she remained with for the rest of her life. After the end of the war, she followed him in Greece where Fermor spent most of his life being a passionate philhellene. They became inseparable. Her private income allowed him to
concentrate on his writing through which he became internationally known. Together they travelled in many remote parts of Greece where he gave lectures as a collaborator of the British Council’s Institute while she took photographs of the people and places of a countryside which was almost primitive and untouched. In the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s, Joan produced countless photographs of people and places, traveling with Paddy in Greece. Some of them are published in the exceptional travel books Mani (1958) and Roumeli (1966) written by Fermor after travelling through the infertile places of the Peloponnese and those of Northern Greece, but
most of them have remained unknown until her death in 2003. After their marriage in 1963 they settled in the Peloponnese in a beautiful house they built in Kardamyli where they hosted friends, among which Alberto Giacometti, Francis Bacon, Lawrence Durrell, Bruce Chatwin and many more. Through this exhibition, the Museum pays tribute to this exceptional figure of the arts, this amazing lady of the Mediterranean world while at the time it sheds light in the unpretentious Greece of the first postwar years. Photographs of Joan Leigh Fermor, 23/5-21/10, Benaki Museum, 1 Koubari str. & Vasilissis Sofias. www.benaki.gr
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Bizet’s Carmen 1—Events
—Odeon of Herodes Atticus
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ne of the most popular opera internationally and a major piece of the French classical repertoire that symbolizes love and liberty, Carmen by George Bizet is brought back to scene by the National Opera of Greece at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. It will be directed by the famous British director, Steven Langridge, currently Artistic Director of the Gothenburg Opera.
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A contemporary version that was first staged in 2016, Giorgos Souglidi’s Carmen is a contemporary, acute, up-to-date version set in a Europe of closed borders and poverty. Giorgos Souglidis, who designed the impressive sets and costumes along with Giuseppe di Iorio who created the eerie lighting and Thomas Bergman who devised the ethereal video projections, Langridge has created a modern but also timeless
setting for Carmen’s everlasting tale. The heroine defends her freedom and right to choose her lovers, not for them to choose her. She becomes a symbol of women’s liberation and a threat to male-dominated, patriarchal societies and their very foundations. There is no other solution than to get rid of her, and the love-struck “betrayed” Don José takes on the task. One of the most iconic ope-
ras in the history of music, Bizet’s Carmen continues to provoke even today 142 years after it was first staged. An unconventional storyline, expressed through the equally unconventional music at the time, though extremely popular in our days’ music. Bizet’s Carmen, Greek National Opera, 27, 28, 29, 31/7, Odeon of Herodes Atticus. www.nationalopera.gr
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2—Sightseeing The city of museums
Some of the most famous sights in the world, thrilling museums and places worth visiting in a long walk in Athens.
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LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
Summer 2018
Kori at the Acropolis Museum Athens–15
The Acropolis Hill & the Parthenon
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hill the history of the city unfolds before you starting from the Neolithic times when the first findings are dated. Its flat top is due to the numerous landfills that have accommodated con-
struction and temples since the Mycenaean era. The first building you encounter when you enter is the Propylea (437 – 432 BCE); the monumental entrances to the area made from marble
of mount Penteli to mark the entrance to the religious complex. Its function was to receive and assemble the visitors and it was built in the Doric order with few Ionic columns supporting
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he Acropolis Hill dominates the Athenian skyline in a remarkable way. Entering from Dionysiou Areopagitou and climbing the 70-metre
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2—Sightseeing
the roof of the central wing. The architect of the project Mnesikles began building it right after the main construction of the Parthenon was completed in 437 BCE. However, five years later with the eruption of the Peloponnesian war construction works were paused. At the southwest is the elegant Temple of Athena Nike (426-421 BCE) of Ionian order, designed by the other wonder child of architecture, Kallikrates. It is said that it housed the statue of Athena Nike, which was made of wood and held a helmet in her left hand. Since it had no wings, the temple acquired the name Apteros Nike (wingless victory). This way, Athenians thought, victory wouldn’t fly away abandoning the city. The Erechtheion (421-405 BCE) is known for its spectacular six female figures functioning as columns, the Caryatids. Possibly named after the women of the city of Karyes, the original have been transferred in the Acropolis museum. Erech-
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theion is intricate temple. The idea was to accommodate the radically uneven ground on the site, without disturbing the pre-existed sacred shrines, like the altars to Poseidon and Hephaestus, or the spot where Poseidon hit the Acropolis with his trident. Other elements that needed to be accommodated were the sacred olive tree, well containing sea water, the tomb of Kekrops, and the Pandrosion sanctuary. The Parthenon (447-438 BCE), built for Virgin (Parthenos) goddess Athena, was made to honor her after she won over the city in a confrontation with Poseidon. Built atop an older temple destroyed by the Persians, Athenians spared no expense in rebuilding a sanctuary of unrivalled craftsmanship. The marble structure of Doric order was 13.72 meters high and 69.50 meters long. Its famous architects, Iktinos and Kallikrates, used marble from the nearby mount Pendeli throughout the building for the very first time in such constructions. The building
was meant to impress with the first glance and so it did, as visitors entered the Acropolis from Propylea and saw it in three quarter view. Its main function was to house the colossal statue of Athena that was made by Phedias out of gold and ivory. The topic of the sculpted decoration was the myths regarding goddess Athena and the Persian defeat by Athens. All artwork, supervised by the sculptor Phedias, was completed by 432 BCE. The decoration of the Parthenon combines the Doric metopes and triglyphs on the entablature, with the Ionic frieze on the walls of the cella. They depict the Gigantomachy on the east side, the Amazonomachy on the west, the Centauromachy on the south, and scenes from the Trojan War on the north. The value of the Parthenon lies, among other things, in the fact that at the time it was built, it epitomized the ideals Athenian society had developed during Pericles’s Golden Age: Democracy, accuracy through mathemat-
ics, aesthetics, and focus on the individual. The classical buildings stood intact until the middle of 17th c when the Propylaia was blown up while being used as a gunpowder store and thirty years later, the Ottoman occupiers dismantled the neighboring Temple of Athena Nike to use its materials to strengthen the fortification of the Acropolis. The most fatal year though was 1687, when many of the building’s architectural members were blown into the air and fell in heaps around the hill caused by a bomb from the Venetian forces. Foreign visitors would search through the rubble and take fragments of the fallen sculptures as their souvenirs. It was in the 19th c. that Lord Elgin removed intact architectural sculptures from the frieze, the metopes and the pediments of the building. Most of them are now exhibited at the British Museum in London.
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The Acropolis Museum
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ne of the most visited Greek museums the Acropolis Museum celebrated nine years of operation in June. All antiquities formerly crammed in the small museum atop the namesake hill were transported during a mammoth-sized operation. The last exhibits were placed into their new positions in April 2008. The building, designed by Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi and Greek architect Michalis Photiades, is made of cement, stainless steel and glass, with spacious galleries. According to the architects, the idea behind the structure was to keep it solemn and simple, in an effort to focus attention on the exhibits, rather than the building itself. The exhibition rooms house the most important artefacts of the classical period, as well as other treasures that were previously kept in storage for lack of space.
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The museum has divided its roughly 4,000 artefacts in five collections: The finds from the slopes of the Acropolis Hill, antiquities from the archaic period, the classical period, the post-classical era and the Roman period. Recently the exhibition was enriched with a relief with the Proecession of Erotes from the Sanctuary of Aphrodite Ourania (2nd c. BCE) and the Owl in Relief that originally adorned the façade of a stand, most likely from the Odeion of Pericles. Some of the most emblematic ancient Greek antiquities are displayed: The archaic Kouroi (male statues) and Kores (female statues), a vast number of pottery, marble sculptures of maidens and athletes, the Parthenon frieze and all its surviving parts. Visitors will also have a chance to admire a collection of artefacts dug out during the excavation process on the ground floor and inspect the ancient city
under their feet – beneath the city. Archaeologists uncovered ancient roads, houses, bath houses and workshops dating between 3,000 BCE – 1,200 BCE, all of which can now be examined through a glass floor that extends from the outside area to the main hall. The route one follows forms a spiral pathway leading from the ground floor where the archaic artefacts are exhibited upwards towards the Parthenon marbles and back down through the Roman era. The top floor houses the Parthenon frieze which is displayed in its original, 2,500-year-old full length entirety, placed at the same angle as it did when it was on its original location, to maximize its effect on the viewer. The pieces missing from the frieze, famously known as the Elgin Marbles, have been replaced by duplicates. Greeks have been very vocal in requesting the originals back from the
British Museum where they have been housed since Lord Elgin sold them in 1816 after he had hacked them off the Parthenon in 1801 and brought them to England. The Acropolis Museum through its international agreements will be presenting in September 2018 the temporary exhibition “Forbidden City: the Private Rooms of Emperor Qianlong” with 154 exhibits from the Palace Museum of Beijing. If you chose to have a coffee or a small lunch at the top floor café restaurant you will experience a unique view of the Acropolis hill and the surrounding area of Plaka. Visitors can book tickets online or buy them at the museum booth. Tourist groups roll in early, so try to be there before 8 am. Acropolis Museum 15, Dionysiou Areopagitou str. www.theacropolismuseum.gr
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The National Archaeological Museum
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he NAM is Greece’s largest museum and one of the world’s most important art museums. Its spectacular collections of ancient Greek art showcase works from the Neolithic, Bronze and Iron Ages, the Geometric/ Orientalizing, the Severe, the Classical and Hellenistic eras, as well as the Roman and early Byzantine periods. Construction for the neoclassical building that houses the Museum – a national landmark – commenced in 1866 on designs of the architects Ludwig Lange and Panagi Kalkos. The final form of its facade was the work of Ernst Ziller, who also supervised the project until 1889. Accordingly, during the 19th and until the mid-20th century, the architectural form that is visible today went through various phases of development and was ultimately completed in 1939. Its large showcase starts with the Prehistoric Era Collection, which includes artifacts from the Neolithic, Cycladic, and Mycenaean periods, and testifies to the long and continuous human presence in the land now known as Greece (6,800 – 3,200 BCE). Some of the most famous Neolithic age exhibits include the clay figurine of a man posing with his hand touching his head and the voluptuous, fertility cult, and female figurines. In the hall of the Cycladic figurines, the two exhibits that should not to be missed are the harpist, carved out of dazzling white marble, and the largest surviving female figurative sculpture from Amorgos Island.
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One of the most impressive spaces in the Museum is the hall of Mycenaean era exhibits. It displays the spectacular treasures of Bronze Age Mycenae discovered by the legendary German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann. The collection includes stone, bronze, and ceramic pots, figurines, ivory and glass objects, as well as golden seals and rings from Mycenae’s vaulted tombs and from other sites in the Peloponnese. A number of extraordinary funerary masks, cups, and jewelry, in gold, alongside carved ivory objects found in the royal tombs, testify to the sophistication of the artists and craftsmen. Nearby, the Linear B inscriptions provide information on the administrative structure of the Mycenaean world. Among a number of rare masterpieces displayed in this section is the famous gold mask that covered the face of the occupant of Mycenae’s largest “tholos” (domed) tomb. The splendor of the artifacts in that royal site led Schliemann to claim the remains as belonging to Agamemnon – the legendary King of Mycenae and a protagonist of Homer’s Iliad. The visitor of the museum can trace the development of Greek sculpture from the 7th century BCE to the Late Roman and early Byzantine periods. The monumentalsized statues are the main draw of that hall. They include the three-meter-high Kouros from the Temple of Poseidon in Sounio, the Artemision Bronze, a two-meter-high statue of a mighty God (probably, Zeus or Poseidon), found
in a shipwreck off the island of Evia dated to ca. 460BC, and the Hellenistic era bronze masterpiece of a young horse rider found in the same shipwreck. It is known as the Jockey of Artemision and is dated ca. 150–140 BCE. The mysterious greater-than-life bronze statue of the Antikythera Youth (ca. 430 BCE) complements the set. There is also an inexhaustible collection of black- and red-figure vases, other pottery artifacts, and works in metals of different kinds, LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
and small objects, which, collectively, reveal the life of ritual as much as everyday life. The fresco paintings from the Island of Santorini (ancient Thera), dated to the 16th century BCE, are of extraordinary significance as well. Salvaged from buildings in a Bronze Age town that was buried by volcanic ejecta, they preserve their intricate details and vibrant colors. Most notable among them are the frescos of the Antelope, the Boxing Children, and
springtime. An exhibit that has captured the scientific world’s imagination is the so-called “Antikythera Mechanism,” an ancient Greek analogue “computer” used to calculate the position of astronomical bodies and predict lunar and solar eclipses. Allegedly used as a calendar, and for astronomical, but for supposedly astrological purposes as well, it reveals the ancient Greeks’ scientific, technological, and metallurgical sophistication. It was discovered by
sponge divers off the coast of the island of Antikythera in 1902. Since its opening the museum has benefited from private gifts of artifacts. Benefactor Ioannis Dimitriou donated his Egyptian Collection to the Museum in 1880 while Alexandros Rostovic in 1904 added significantly to it. Considered the fourth most important in the world, it was only recently opened to the public. This exceptional collection includes nine mummies donated by the Egyptian
government in 1893, rare statues, tools, jewelry, and a wooden body tag for a mummy, a stunning bronze statue of a princess, intact bird eggs, and a 3,000-yearold loaf of bread with a bite-sized chunk missing. The exhibition’s centerpiece is the bronze statue of the princess-priestess Takushit, dated to ca. 670 BCE. There are also a number of exquisite Fayum funerary masks, National Archaeological Museum,44 Patission st. www.namuseum.gr
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The Benaki Museum of Islamic Art
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he Islamic art collections of the Benaki Museum are housed in a complex of neo-classical buildings located at the Kerameikos district, which was named after the necropolis (cemetery) of ancient Athens, in the historic center of Athens near the ancient Agora and the Doric temple of Hephaestus (the “Theseion”). The collection of the Museum of Islamic Art ranks among the most important in the world as it includes about 10,000 artifacts from countries as far apart as India, Central Asia,
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Iran, Iraq, Turkey, Syria, Jordan, the Arabian Peninsula, Egypt and the rest of North Africa, South Italy and Spain. The exhibition that extends in four floors showcases the evolution of the Islamic material culture from the first centuries of Islam to the 19th century through metalwork, textiles, glass, bone and ivory, inscribed funerary steles as well as arms and armor. The ceramic collection is one of the finest in the world, with several examples of rare Fatimid luster and colorful Iznik. Among the highlights of the
museum are the carvedwood two-panel door from the 8th century Mesopotamia, a unique inscribed reed mat from the 10th-century Tiberias, a silver-inlaid brass box bearing the signature of Ismail ibn Ward alMawsili and dated 1220, the brass astrolabe of Ahmad ibn al-Sarraj dated 1328/29, the famous 16th-century uncut silk velvet saddle cloth from Bursa as well as the marble-faced interior of a reception room from a 17thcentury Cairo mansion. During the reconstruction of the crumbling building which was to house the mu-
seum, workers uncovered part of the foundations of the ancient wall of Athens along with a tomb. After the examination and preservation by archaeologists visitors can see the findings at the lower level of the building. There is also a handsome little café at the rooftop of the museum with an open veranda and an exquisite panoramic view of Athens. Museum of Islamic Art 22 Ag. Asomaton & 12 Dipilou St. Tel.:+30 210 3251311 www.benaki.gr
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Byzantine and Christian Museum
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The collection contains more than 30,000 objects of early Christian, Byzantine, Medieval and modern religious art that date from the 3rd until the 21st centuries CE originating from Greece, Asia Minor and the Balkans. Collections include sculptures, icons, mosaics, ceramics, textiles, manuscripts, drawings and chalcography. Some of them are of unparalleled craftsmanship like the outstanding icon 13th century Panaghia Glykofiloussa, Episkepsis made of mosaic, a very expensive technique,
rarely used on icons. The most distinguished exhibit is a 14th century icon of “Archangel Michael” who is depicted in a formal, frontal pose, with its wings open. The exquisite quality of the art as well as its direct connection with the marvelous wall-paintings of the Chora Monastery in Istanbul attribute this work to an important workshop of the first half of the 14th century. Among the other that are not to be missed of the museum are the silk religious frock worn by priests in the 17th century
and the manuscript section include beautiful scrolls, Holy Bibles and the rare Etymologikon (Grammar book) from the early 18th century. The café-restaurant that is located in the garden of the museum is a pleasant and peaceful environment where the visitor can enjoy a beverage or a light meal.
22 V. Sofias Avenue Tel: +30 213 2139517 www.byzantinemuseum.gr
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ntering the premises of the Byzantine and Christian Museum on Vassilisis Sofias you encounter one of the most idyllic gardens of central Athens. Located right next of Aristotle’ s Lyceum, Villa Ilissia was once the residence of philhellene and an Athenian by choice Sophie de Marbois-Lebrun, Duchess of Plaisance (17851854). It houses the museum since 1926 in which a large collection of Byzantine and post-Byzantine era artwork is displayed.
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Benaki Museum
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enaki Museum, located in the city’s chic neighborhood of Kolonaki, is housed in an impressive 19th century neoclassical mansion, once the residence of the Museum’s benefactor Antonis Benakis. It is one of the most iconic museums of Greece; it exhibits works of art from the prehistory period to modern times, but more than often it hosts major temporary exhibitions as well. The ground floor is dedicated to Greek prehistory (Neolithic and Bronze Ages, including the Cycladic and Mycenaean cultures) as well as the Geometric, Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic and Roman eras. There is a vast collection of stone tools, marble vessels, gold jewelry and painted pottery, glassware, ceramics, funerary stelae, mural paintings, ancient textiles as well as Roman sculpture. Among some of the rarest and unique exhibits are the two marble items dated 4,500 – 3,200 BCE, a Neolithic statuette, a golden cup from Evia dated accordingly to between 3,000 and 2,800 BCE, a Mycenaean golden ring from Thebes dated 15th – 14th century BC. There is also an excellent collection of Byzantine icons, mosaics and beautifully woven and embroidered fabrics for religious use. Regarding the Fayum portraits you shouldn’t miss the astonishing “Portrait of a Young Man”, an expressive portrait of a male from Antinoopolis in Egypt, painted with the encaustic method on linen that dates back
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the 3rd century CE as well as a very interesting early work by El Greco titled “The Adoration of Magi” (1565-67). In the first floor you will have the chance to experience the 16th – 18th century Greece, through a collection of traditional festive and bridal attires, embroideries, jewelry, woodwork and items of daily use from the islands of the Aegean and Ionian Seas, Cyprus, Asia Minor and mainland Greece. A selection of amazing artifacts of everyday use, garments and embroidery of luxury along with masterpieces such as the silk-embroidered wedding bed from Rhodes, the wooden chests, the intricate golden jewelry and the Iznik and Kutahya ceramics. At the same floor, don’t miss out on visiting the two reception room interiors from elite of 18th century households. On the second floor there is an exhibition of farming tools, shipping culture, musical instruments and books, while the third floor is dedicated to postrevolutionary (post-1821) Greece. Exhibits that are related to the period during which Greeks struggled for their freedom against the Ottoman Empire include an important painting “The Oath at Aghia Lavra” by Theodoros Vryzakis (1851), that depicts the legend that situates the beginning of the Greek War for Independence in Kalavrita on the 25th of March 1821. There are also manuscripts by poets such as Dionysios Solomos (who wrote the national hymn for Greece), paintings, furniture, personal items of revolutionary
figures and philhellenes, like Lord Byron, and items associated with the royal families that came to rule Greece after independence. The exhibition concludes with the epic battle of World War II. At the rooftop balcony there is a wonderful caférestaurant overlooking the National Garden as well as Herodotou Street and the Presidential Mansion. The museum has six more annexes in different parts of the city. Better known among them is the Pireos 138, hosting temporary exhibitions, the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art in Kerameikos and the Benaki Toy Museum on the city’s waterfront.
1 Koumbari Str. & V. Sofias Ave. www.benaki.gr
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Syntagma Square Syntagma Square is an iconic Athenian landmark that contains the National Parliament and the Monument of the Unknown Soldier. It is the heart of Greece’s capital, and the epicenter of its political life. Formerly a palace, the Parliament building and the square in front of it have been the ground of many important political events in the country’s history. At the front courtyard there’s the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, paying tribute to the dead soldiers of Greece, as well as the traditionally dressed Evzones – the Presidential Guard. There is a changing of the guards that takes place every hour on the hour which gathers many spectators who enjoy seeing men in foustanella (a cotton white kilt) performing a highly stylized ceremonial. The rest of the hour remain completely motionless and at attention. The exact same ceremonial takes place every quarter past an hour in front of the main entrance of the Presidential Mansion on Herodou Atticou Street. Behind the Parliament building, the National Garden offer a much needed patch of green and shadow in the city. The Gardens host no less than 47,000 trees and plants, a botanical museum, small ponds with fish and ducks, as well as a picturesque old café. At the southern side of the Gardens, you’ll find Zappeio Mansion, a donation of the wealth Konstantinos Zappas in the 19th century, used today mainly as a conference centre. During daytime Zappeion and its surrounding gardens serve as a getaway from the noise and the traffic of the city.
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Attalos Arcade
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he Attalos Arcade (Stoa tou Attalou) is a twostorey arcade built by king Attalos, king of Pergamos around 150 BCE. It is thought to have been an ancient shopping center housing 21 shops in each one of the floors. The Arcade, now serving as the sites’ museum, forms part of the Ancient Agora, an extensive area which housed, among others, administrative buildings, shops, schools, law courts, prisons, theatres even the city mint that produced its silver coins. The Agora was the political, cultural and religious center of the city. Athenians would gather on a daily basis, not only to buy and sell their goods, but also to learn the news, to criticize the government, to debate issues or simply gossip. This is where philosophers like Socrates
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spent their days debating different issues. It is dominated by three monuments: the Attalos Arcade, the Temple of Hephaestus and the Byzantine Church of the Holy Apostles. The Arcade stood for nearly five hundred years until it was burnt down in AD 267 by the Herulii tribe. It was rebuilt by the American School of Classical Studies between 1953 and 1956 on the original foundations using the original materials. It is currently used as a museum that showcases all the finds from the Agora. Some of the museum’s most interesting artifacts include the klepsydra, a water clock used for timing speeches and ancient ballot boxes for voting and children’s toys. In 2012 the museum inaugurated its first floor following extensive restoration. The visitor has the opportunity to admire artifacts dating from the
post-classical and the Roman periods, some of which have never been exhibited before. A representative collection of Athenian sculptures and models of the surrounding area with a special focus on the important group of portraits from the Athenian Agora excavations organized in 6 units: The idealized figures of gods and mortals, comprising late Classical-Hellenistic works of the 4th and 3rd cent. BCE, the Athenian workshops that reproduced classical works, comprising of Roman copies of classical works of the 1st -2nd century, Roman portraits of the 1st - 2nd century, presenting images of wealthy Athenian citizens represented according to imperial prototypes, the city honors state officials, comprising herms bearing portraits of state officials of the 2nd and 3rd century Roman portraits
of the 3rd century, presenting portraits of prominent citizens in Roman Athens and collections of sculptures adorning the private schools of late antiquity. The overall exhibition area offers an experiential approach to the architecture of the ancient arcade, while providing also an excellent view of the Agora, the Pnyka - the area where Athenians gathered to listen to the speeches of their politicians- and the Acropolis, useful for comprehending the historical landscape and the ancient topography of the area. In addition, by providing the possibility of visual contact with the area where the ancient ceramics are kept, it highlights the role of the Museum as a centre of research of Greek cultural heritage. Attalos Arcade 24, Adrianou str.
LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
2—Sightseeing
Numismatic Museum
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he Numismatic Museum is housed in the impressive two-storey edifice of Ilion Melathron designed by Ernst Ziller on Panepistimou Street near Syndagma Square once residence of German archaeologist Heinerich Schliemann, the excavator of Troy and Mycenae. The spacious rooms and ceilings are decorated with mosaics and murals depicting themes from Pompei. Excerpts of the literary work of Homer, Hesiod, Pindar and Luciano are scribed on the walls. The massive collection of the museum contains 600,000 objects, mainly coins but also medals, standard masses, dies, stamps and others, from the 14th century BCE until modern times. The collection is arranged in such a way to follow the history of coinage therefore of the western civilization. The museum holds a very
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important collection of coins from the 6th century BCE until the 5th century CE starting with the first sticks used as currency, the first silver “turtle” of Aegina, coins of each of the Greek cities, like a rare 10 drachma silver coin from Athens that was probably cut in 479 BCE celebrating the victory over the Persians, and many more from the Hellenistic and Roman periods. There also major Byzantine and Medieval collections, as well as from the East and the Ottoman Empire up to modern states. A significant portion of the collection is constituted by coins that were found in hoards like the “coin hoard of Myrina” that is consisted of 149 silver coins from Aegina or from other recent excavations in mainland Greece and donations. The museum also houses a library of 12,000 books specialized in the study of coinage. There is garden café in the back
yard of the museum, one of the secrets of downtown Athens, where one can relax and read a book away from the noise of the city.
12 Panepistimiou Str. Tel. +30 210 3632057 Admission: 6€ www.nummus.gr
LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
2—Sightseeing
Plaka & Monastiraki
T
he historic neighborhood of Plaka embosoms the Acropolis Hill on all sides. Together with Monastiraki, they contain an endless variety of historic sites from different eras and civilizations – Prehistoric, Greek, roman, Ottoman. Apart from its touristy side, Plaka is one of the few
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remaining neighborhoods of the city that retain their unique neoclassical architectural style of old Athens. A walk through its winding alleyways will give you an insight of the way people lived and interacted with one another in the geitonia (neighborhood) at times when everyone knew their neighbors and daily visit at
the café was a ritual. Perched right under the Acropolis is the quant Anafiotika quarter, a quite area with whitewashed Cycladicstyle houses. These small houses were built by masons who worked the stone from the Cycladic island of Anafi in the mid-19th century, who had arrived in Athens to work at the con-
struction of the royal palace after the independence. The beautiful white Church of Aghios Georgios marks the area from afar. Walking towards the train lines, you enter Monastiraki, the biggest open-air museum in the country. On Adrianou Street there is the Ancient Agora, the center of the government in ancient
LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
Athens, while the amazing Temple of Hephaestus built in 449 BCE, is the best preserved Doric temple in Greece. At the corner of Eolou and Adrianou Streets you encounter the Roman Agora and the impressive, octagonal Tower of the Wings that is said to have been both a sundial and a water clock. As an impres-
sive proof of the successive civilizations that inhibited the area, inside the Roman Agora you also find the beautiful Fethiye Djami, one of the few surviving examples of Ottoman mosques in Athens. The second one is Tsistaraki Mosque, found across the Monastiraki Train Station on the main square which has recently been
renovated and is now housing the Kyriazopoulos Folk and Ceramics Museum, with a fine collection of 800 pieces of ceramics from all over the country. Only a few meters from the entrance of the museum in the center of the vibrant Monastiraki square with its spectacular pavement, you will encounter a colorful coming and
going of groups of young people. In the recent years, the square has become a meeting point of youngsters of different cultural backgrounds where they often play their own music or dance. At the same time the flea market on the adjacent Athinas Street adds more charm to this old district of downtown Athens.
2—Sightseeing
Museum of Cycladic Art One of the finest museums of Athens, the Museum of Cycladic Art exhibits the largest collection in the world of exquisite white marble figurative sculptures from the Cyclades Islands’ Bronze Age. They are displayed alongside ancient Greek and Cypriot art works in a modern, four-floor building in the fashionable Kolonaki district, a stone’s throw from Syntagma Square. The main collection of Cycladic Art is displayed on the first floor of the Museum. The works reveal their anthropocentric character by reducing the human form to the simplest, most elemental and reductive geometry. This genre of sculpture dates back to the third millennium BCE and was prevalent throughout the archipelago of the Cyclades (the place-name is derived from the Greek word “kyklos” circle). Their gracious lines, streamlined volumes, abstracted form, and sleek surfaces immensely influenced the
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early 20th century sculpture, especially the work of Modigliani, Brancusi, Giacometti, Archipenko and others. Most of the statuettes were discovered in tombs though there is no solid conclusion to explain their purpose. They most often depict female bodies, posed with their hands crossed in the front of the body, and their knees slightly bent. Exceptional due to its size, a large damaged head of a statue, named after “Modigliani”, is considered the finest example of this type of Greek marble sculpture that flourished in the Cyclades in the Early Bronze Age. Other important works singled out for representing exemplary the 3rd millennium BCE technical skills, include the statue of a seated figure raising a cup in a toast and a violin-shaped statue. On the second floor there is another permanent exhibition, titled “A History in Images”. It includes artifacts from later eras – from the Minoan and Mycenaean, to
the Classical, Hellenistic, and Roman eras, among which, Hydrias, glass vessels for oils, objects in gold, and amphorae from Attica. The fine 4th BCE mold-cast terracotta figurines from the Beotian town of Tanagra, are not to be missed. Though diminutive in size they are rendered in perfect human proportions, have delicate and beautiful faces, and still preserve their original color and patina; a true example of beauty. The third floor houses the important Ancient Cypriot Art collection. The artifacts reveal to the visitor a world of power, prestige, and wealth. Other important exhibits include a selection of fine glass pottery of Hellenistic and Roman provenance that may yet surpass in elegance and luxury of any contemporary counterparts in glass manufacture. The fourth floor exhibition, titled “Scenes from Daily Life in Antiquity,” includes a selection of all periods of Greek art up to the 6th
century CE. The collection includes vessels, clay pottery, jugs and cups for drinking in feasts, and bronze helmets. Of great historical significance is the collection of ten “ostraca” (singular: “ostracon”): shards of vases commonly used as ballots in ancient Athens. The city would decide a verdict of banishment or exile through “ostracizing” or the consideration of the popular will through the counting of “ostraca” bearing the name of the accused. The museum also includes an excellent gift shop with beautiful replicas of the iconic Cycladic figurines and a wide variety of books, and elegant, high quality accessories and jewelry. The museum’s café-restaurant is one of the most elegant and well-appointed in town with a rich and well thought-out menu. 4 Neofytou Douka Str., Kolonaki Tel.+30 210 7228321-3 Admission: 3, 5€ www.cycladic.gr
LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
2—Sightseeing
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center
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he Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC) is a complex of newly built buildings that house the National Library of Greece (NLG) and the Greek National Opera (GNO) as well as the 210,000 m2 Stavros Niarchos Park. It is located 4, 5 km south of the center of Athens, on the edge of Faliro bay. This impressive and recently inaugurated site designed by the famous Italian Architect Renzo Piano and partners stands today as an exceptional multifunctional arts, education and entertainment site. It is the first private –
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public partnership of its type in Greece, and one of the most important civic (cultural/educational) projects ever undertaken in the country. A number of both indoor and outdoor activities take place all year round within its premises that include the Greek National Opera events, music concerts, open space gatherings, art exhibitions and more. At ground level, a tree-lined pedestrian Esplanade runs parallel to the glass façade of the structure. A wide canal runs alongside the main building, a figurative extension of the sorts of the adjacent sea suited for water sports and a number of sports and
wellness programs for both adults and children. It is an ideal space for recreation, relaxation, running and biking or simply strolling around. During summer evenings visitors lie down at the lawn watching movies in its outdoors screenings. The top of the building that houses the Library and the Opera is a green roof - hill offering spectacular 360-degree views of the sea to the west, the Acropolis to the east, and the cultural and educational park below. There is also a glass-walled Lighthouse with sittings for those who seek a quiet area to read. The ground level can be
accessed either by elevator or by walking through a lush garden. For convenient access to and from the SNFCC, free of charge transportation by shuttle bus is available daily to all visitors. A minibus departs from Syntagma Square (intersection with Ermou Street) with a stopover at the SygrouFix Metro station (Sygrou Avenue).
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre 364 Sygrou Avenue, Kallithea www.snfcc.org
LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
3—Beaches
A place for swimmers Athens is not just for sightseeing. A huge coastline awaits for you to explore it. Here are 10 beaches close to Athens with perfect waters.
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LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
Sounio
Summer 2018
Athens–43
3—Beaches
Sun Coast (Akti tou Iliou) – Alimos (37.91° N, 23.72° E)
The Sun Coast, on Poseidon Avenue, is the closest beach to central Athens, at a distance of 7, 5 km. A very popular destination for all ages, it is the ideal place for swimming and water sports as well as nightlife, due to a number of music events that take place every night in the 5 different beach bars you can find there. Even if each one of the bars has a different policy, there is a main entrance fee that includes free pass to the changing rooms, the volleyball courts, and a space for playing beach rackets, snack bars, café –restaurants, a children’s playground, renting canoes or water bicycles. Sunbeds and umbrellas are offered for free in most of the beach bars with the exception of the one that offers free drinks. Lifesavers as well as a fully equipped infirmary are there to keep
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you safe while you are enjoying the sea.
Astir Glyfada (37.85 N°, 23.75° E)
An organized beach of the coastal avenue Astir Glyfada is located 14 km away from central Athens right behind the former nightclub “Asteria” and practically occupies the small peninsula of Glyfada. It is opened everyday from 8:00 to 20:00 and offers every possible amenity to its visitors such as changing rooms, lockers, sunbeds, umbrellas, children’s playground, beach volley and beach soccer spaces for great fun at the beach.
Astir Beach Vouliagmeni (37.81° N, 23.77° E)
Located in the distinguished Vouliagmeni district 25 km away from central Athens Astir Beach Vouliagmeni is a destination that offers total seclusion amidst
its lush Mediterranean countryside and seafront surroundings. One of the most luxurious organized beaches in the very heart of the Athens Riviera it caters to the whims of those with expensive taste who wish to bask in the sun while feeling glamorous and rubbing shoulders with local celebrities and international VIPs. Legendary stars as Jackie Onassis, Brigitte Bardot, Joan Collins and many more have swum in this all-time classic beach. Located on the Laimos peninsula the waters are crystal clear while its 300m bay is surrounded by pine trees. Facilities include top notch cuisine restaurants, bars, hot water showers, changing rooms, lockers, water skiing. Beach racket and beach volleyball tournaments supplement the visitors’ entertainment.
Lake Vouliagmeni (37.81° N, 32.79° E)
Lake Vouliagmeni is an idyllic spot and one of the hidden gems of Athens situated between Vouliagmeni and Varkiza. Its impressive rock formation, its thermal spring waters, a maze of underwater tunnels as well as the lush vegetation surroundings make this unique geological landmark a mustsee. At the end of the lake there is an underwater cave, whose length is yet undetermined, since only 3.123 m have been explored. One of its 14 tunnels is been recorded as the longest in the world (800m), and the discovery of a huge stalagmite inside the cave has altered the scientists perception regarding the formation of the Mediterranean Sea. The stable temperature of the water, combined with the oval shaped lake creates the ideal natural pool in a heavenly setting for swimming, snorkeling and mineral baths. There is a café – restaurant for who wants to
LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
enjoy a beverage or a light meal by its shore, as well as a deck with sunbeds and umbrellas, a playground and various fitness programs for anyone who wants to participate. Visiting hours are from dawn till dusk, all year round. Seagulls might decide to hang out with you while you are reading your book or sip an iced coffee. Artistic events from classical music to popular singers’ concerts often take place within this magnificent scenery.
Schinias – Dikastika – Moraitis
3—Beaches
(38.15° N, 24.00° E)
Located 42 km north- northwest of Athens near the historical city of Marathon and very close to the Olympic Rowing Centre there is a unique stone
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pine trees forest. It is been declared a national park and is protected by the Natura 2000 network. At its west side there is the very spot that the Marathon battle took place in 490 BC during the first Persian invasion of Greece. An amazing, sandy unorganized beach, with blue crystal clear and very shallow waters, which might get black in spots because of the movement of the seaweed according to the wind direction, waits for you for a relaxing day by the sea. It is mostly frequented by families and groups of friends who bring their own supplies and set out for a picnic under the shadowy trees. Off the main road that leads to Schinias a number of taverns are serving delicious meat meals. In case you decide
to drive there, instead of taking the bus, it is better to park outside the beach area, since cars might get stuck in the sand. Dikastika is a tiny rocky secluded beach which is located in a spot within the bay of Schinias at Marathon bay. One has to walk a rocky path to reach it. It is ideal for diving in the deep crystal clear sea, as well as for snorkeling and sunbathing on the rocks. It is not recommended for children though, if they are not skilled swimmers. Walking down the main footpath there are a handful of other paths that lead down to smaller beaches among which a nudist beach that never gets crowded. Keep in mind that you may want to carry your own umbrella. Moraitis beach and water
sports center is located near the main Schinias beach and it is minutes away from the historic village of Marathon. It offers everything a water sports enthusiast could dream of such as windsurfing, waterskiing, wakeboarding, wakesurfing, SUP, sea kayaks, subwing, catamaran as well as triathlon training or snorkeling. There is a beach bar that serves healthy snacks in a cozy space that blends relaxed beach vibes with the thrill of watersports.
Sounio (37.6° N, 24.02° E)
A picturesque coast with a number of beaches located under the Temple of Poseidon waits for you at approximately 68 km away from Athens. One of the most popular ones lies
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3—Beaches
in front of Aegean Beach Hotel and provides changing rooms, sunbeds, and umbrellas with a spectacular view of the ancient site but it is rather small and can get really crowded, so if you want a view of the temple opt for the Cape Sounio beach, which may be a better option during the weekends. Among other beaches with clean blue waters there is the Passas beach ideal for families, Assimakis beach for ski lovers, Charakas a vast island-like beach and last but not least perhaps the best sandy beach in the area Legrena (also called KAPE), an unorganized beach with a small bay where nudity is allowed.
Limanakia (37.80° N, 23.79° E)
Excellent spot only half an hour drive by car from downtown Athens between Vouliagmeni and Varkiza and approximately one hour
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by bus, this rocky beach with crystal clear deep waters, which resembles a Greek island is totally unorganized. It extends in two different “beaches” so to say, one that is frequent by youngsters, where there is a small wooden beach bar with a deck and another one at the opposite side which is considered a nudist gay friendly beach. Whichever of the two you choose, don’t forget to bring your sunscreen, your hat and a bottle of water with you.
Mavro Lithari (37.74° N, 23.90° E)
Mavro Lithari (which means black rock; in fact there is an actual rock emerging from the water), is located 40km away from the center Athens in the area of Anavyssos. It is a sandy beach with clear waters and a beach bar especially popular among the youngsters due to the music events with
famous DJs that are organized from time to time there. Sunbeds and umbrellas are free of charge as far as you chose to drink your cocktail or your café there. The view of the sunset is breathtaking.
doctor, as well as access to a fine bar while its restaurant serves delicious culinary creations and kids’ meals. It is opened daily from 9:00 to 20:00. Relax with a cocktail by the sea, and pump up your adrenaline with your favorite water sports.
Grand Beach (Grand Resort Lagonissi)
Psatha
(37.77° N, 23.89° E)
(38.11° N, 23.22° E)
Situated 40km from central Athens on the way to Sounion in the Athenian Riviera, the Grand Beach is part of the 5 star the Grand Resort Lagonissi. An elegant island-like sea front offers the ideal summer escape with stunning views to the Saronic Gulf with high class exclusive amenities. The entrance fee may seem somewhat costly but it includes luxurious changing rooms with hot shower, comfortable sunbeds and umbrellas, playground, a beach volley court, water sports, a swimming pool, a life saver and a
Psatha beach is 66km away from Athens and is considered one of the most popular summer destinations of west Attica. Its 2.5 km of sandy coast situated under Pateras Mountain and the amazing views on the Corinthian Gulf are adding more credits to it. Its pristine waters and a variety of restaurants, fish taverns and cafés are there to cover everything you may need for a day at the beach. The scenic route makes Psatha the perfect choice for wonderful and relaxing excursion.
LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
International Music Festival Molyvos Music
Peri Cafe
4TH INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL MOLYVOS MUSIC The castle, the cobbled streets, the ancient temples, the museums, the beach, the market and the harbor of Lesvos are flooded for the 4th consecutive year with classical music, thanks to the International Folk Festival Molyvos, which this year will present an impressive program. The concept of “Genesis”, the birth of a new identity, of a new self, with renewed hopes and a new direction in life, runs this year’s festival, which will take place from 8-19August in the homonymous traditional settlement of Lesbos. Twenty seven talented awardwinning soloists and restless music performers from various parts of the world join forces especially for the Festival with fascinating works quot-
ing landscapes of the world. The stunning wall paintings by the painter Ampe Fereira that decorate the interiors and exteriors of CIEL in combination with the carefully selected furniture and plants, is the ideal scenery to enjoy signature cocktails and Mediterranean All Day Brunch cuisine, inspired by the grandmothers’ classic recipes but with a twist. All dishes are cooked with the purest of the ingredients bringing to mind the most distinguished and unique Greek flavors. Ciel Athens is not just another roof garden with stunning views of Athens skyline, but a unique experience while in this amazing city.
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ing their own approach to the subject. For more information www.molyvosfestival. com/en/4th-molyvosinternational-music-festival/programme/ www. molyvosfestival.com/ en/4th-molyvos-international-music-festival/ artists/
CIEL ATHENS THE ROOFTOP EXPERIENCE -
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mnisikleous 2 & mitropoleos athens tel. +30 210 3314727 fb: ciel athens instagram: ciel_athens
With the signature of the interior designer Nikos Koronios, an architectural style that is inspired by nature, the soft light of the Acropolis and the linear monuments, we welcome you to one of the most beautiful and enchant-
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KALDERIMI BOUTIQUE ATHENS
23 skoufa kolonaki tεl. +30 210 3645319 oia santorini tel.+30 22860 71621
If you are looking for an outfit that will give you a unique style, then a visit to the Kalderimi boutique in the elegant neighborhood of Kolonaki in Athens is a must do. One of the main companies that collaborate with the store is La bodega di Brunella. Made exclusively in Positano, Italy, the garments of La bodega di Brunella are made of cotton linen, wool and silk, from a family that continues the tradition of handmade garments on the loom, which stand out for their sophisticated style. In Kalderimi, however, you will also find clothes from GRIZAS, another family business with attention to detail that create clothes of a different and distinctive style made of natural fabrics and especially soft silk. Complete your look with handmade jewelry, shoes and scarves that you will also find in the store.
Kalderimi boutique Athens
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Art Lounge
KUDETA-on the sky
Forget Me Not Athens
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PERI CAFE
mitropoleos 1, athens tel. +30 210 3311102 akti poseidonos 18, piraeus tel. +30 210 4110340 fb: @perikafe
Peri Café first opened its doors in Piraeus and immediately stood out. It soon made its way in Syntagma square, bringing quality into the very heart of Athens. The awesome coffee made by trained baristas based on the world’s finest single origin blends is only one of the many wonderful choices served in this beautiful spot in Athens. Peri Café team welcomes you to enjoy their excellent coffee, fresh juices, delightful smoothies, delicious sandwiches, cool salads and hot or cold dishes such as risotto, pasta, pizzas. Either you work in the center of the town, or you are a passerby, a visit to Peri Café is a must!
Summer 2018
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KUDETA-ON THE SKY
54 voutadon str., athens tel. +30 210 3422663 fb: @kudetaskybar
At the most central point of Athens, in Gazi, just outside Kerameikos Metro, you will find KUDETA-on the sky, a unique roof garden that you will just love. Climb up the ladder and you will immediately feel that you have moved to some place magical. Enjoy the breathtaking view of the Acropolis sipping a cocktail among an interesting crowd of people while listening to some great music. Whether you visit this amazing roof top for a drink or a light meal, KUDETA- on the sky is a must go spot. Keep updated for their upcoming events from well-known djs.
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ART LOUNGE
16, filellinon str.,105 57, athens, tel. +30 210 3273170 www.yeshotels.gr art lounge restaurant τel. +30 210 3273170
Art Lounge is located right in the heart of Athens, in the 7th floor of NEW Hotel; one of the most beautiful city rooftops, a unique venue that combines art with fine cuisine. With an extra dash of style and a pinch of culinary excellence, on the 7th floor of NEW hotel, the Art Lounge serves outstanding food and cocktails, topped off with panoramic views of Athens. Playing on New Hotel’s cultural and art passions, the Art Lounge houses a library with over 2000 art books for guests to borrow. Relax with a book on the terrace or admire the 360° views of Athens histori-
cal landmarks, including the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill, Syntagma Square and the Parliament. The scenery is breathtaking and so is the feeling you get every time you visit!
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FORGET ME NOT ATHENS
forget me not ath 100, adrianou str., plaka tel. +30 210 3253740 fb: @forgetmenotathens forgetmenotathens@ gmail.com www.ForgetMeNotAthens.gr
At 100 Adrianou Street in Plaka, in the first house where leader of the Greek RevolutionTheodoros Kolokotronis stayed in Athens, Forget Me Not first opened its doors in March of 2014 creating another kind of “revolution” in the field of Greek design.
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On the first floor of the store, one can find the best examples of contemporary Greek and foreign design, as Philip Khoury owner of Forget Me Not collaborates and hosts the work of renowned and promising young Greek designers who, through their objects, shape the current Greek visual arts identity. Don’t miss out on visiting the second floor where you can find some unique designer clothes, beach wear and more. Through constant search, new designers, products and brands are added to the store daily, with exclusive, limited edition or collectible items.
Luigi Sky Bar Restaurant
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LUIGI SKY BAR RESTAURANT
22 mnisikleous str, 10556 plaka, athens info@luigiathens.com
In the most picturesque part of the city, in Plaka, there is an all-day café-restaurant, Luigi, where you can enjoy your coffee in the morning, relax with a refreshing cocktail in the ideally situated roof top bar with breathtaking views of Acropolis, Parthenon and Lykavitos, or enjoy a romantic dinner under the Attica sky. Choose among a wide variety of signature dishes, delicious pasta, handmade pizza, favorite Greek dishes and other specialties. All in all, one of the best choices when in Athens.
STARBUCKS CHILLED CLASSICS Each ready to drink, Starbucks Chilled Classics, is inspired by the existing coffeehouse customer favorite beverage. They are perfect for coffee and chocolate lovers who are looking for a delicious high Starbucks quality cold beverage when on the go. You can find the whole range of Starbucks Chilled Classics at super markets, grocery & convenient stores, as well as kiosks, all over Greece. Beloved flavours include the classic Starbucks Cappuccino and Starbucks Caffè Latte that combine the bold Starbucks Espresso Roast, 100% Fairtrade certified with the right proportion of milk, as well as the sweeter options
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Starbucks Caramel Macchiato and Starbucks Vanilla Bean Macchiato with rich sweet caramel and vanilla bean extract respectively. This summer a new flavor is added, the Starbucks Signature Chocolate, a delicious blend of rich Fairtrade cocoa and creamy milk 2% for a unique chocolate experience with low calories.
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NICE N EASY
60 omirou and skoufa str., kolonaki tel. +30 210 3617201 fb: nice n easy kolonaki http://niceneasy.gr/el/
There is a place in Kolonaki that has been a favorite haunt for the city’s everyday foodies for ten years now. We are obviously talking
Starbucks Chilled Classics
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Nice n Easy
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LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
Fran & Lili e-boutique
Frankie
about Nice n Easy, created by Dimitris Christoforidis, in his desire to bring the farm to table philosophy in Greece. On its menu, signed by chef Christos Athanasiadis, you will find from meals for meat lovers, to Greek traditional dishes, but also dishes with national influences and delicious vegetarian suggestions. Using exclusively pure, organic ingredients from Greek small producers, each dish stands out for its high nutritional value and its unrivaled taste.
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FRAN & LILI E-BOUTIQUE
fran & lili showroom 64 ermou str., 1st floor, monastiraki (monday to friday 12am to 19pm / saturday 12am to 16pm) tel: +30 210 3258545 www.franandlili.gr
The Fran & Lili e-boutique, welcomes you to explore a completely new aspect of Athens; a place where style
and exceptional clothes coexist near Monastiraki sqr in the very heart of the capital’s commercial center. Among its clothes and accessories, you will discover some of the wellknown Greek Designers such as Milkwhite, Comsi and Love + Alicia along with foreign brands such as Compania Fantastica, Endless Rose and See u Soon. While the e-boutique offers you the convenience of the e-commerce, you can also visit the Showroom and get to meet, the Fran & Lili owners, two girls full with style, fun, great taste and of course, true Athenians.
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FRANKIE
skoufa 42, kolonaki tel. +30 210 3647052 fb: frankie
If you crave for authentic Italian cuisine then a visit to Frankie is a must. The newest member of the nice n easy family, with flavors reminding the Italian restaurants of New York, introduces
a loyal to the farm-to table philosophy menu, with the signature of Executive Chef Christos Athanasiadis, and Chef de Cuisine Panagiotis Moses, offering a variety of choices for small or big culinary “sins”. Take notice that from Monday to Friday, from 5.00am to 8.00pm, Frankie invites you to a pleasant break to enjoy their Aperitivo. And if for some reason you don’t feel like visiting Kolonaki, you can have your meal delivered to you. FLÂNEUR SOUVENIRS & SUPPLIES
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110 Adrianou str. & 1 Flessa str. 10558, Plaka, Athens Tel. +30 210 3226900 info@flaneur-shop.gr
Flâneur Souvenirs & Supplies is an independent store that offers a curated collection of “souvenirs for curious minds and supplies for the
urban explorer”, including unique pieces from both local and international creators. Jewelry co-exists harmoniously with hand-made soaps, explorer backpacks, illustrated books, hats, sunglasses and postcards. Flâneur, as suggested by its name, it’s not just another souvenir store, but a place where you can feel more like a wanderer than a shopper. You are welcome to wander around and be surprised by the variety of objects you will discover, ask for directions, and listen to stories, feeling you are in the absolute traveler’s hub. The objects in the store have a fresh, creative feel with a playful or humorous touch, which is underlined by the clean lines of the space. Despite carrying a generous selection of items, the store allows the visitor to move around with ease and decide with peace of mind. https://www.facebook.com/ flaneursouvenirsandsupplies/ https://www.instagram.com/ flaneur_souvenirs_supplies/ KOULOURADES OF SYNTAGMA SQUARE
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Karagiorgis Serbian 9 & Parliament, Athens Tel. +30 210 324 028 www.koulourades.gr/el
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Flâneur Souvenirs & Supplies
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In the historic center of Athens, at the corner of Karagiorgis Servias & Voulis, you will find the bakery Koulourades of Syntagma. Freshly baked traditional baked goods of Thessaloniki are served to you with a big smile every day. Thessaloniki’s Koulouri (tradi-
LiFO Athens and the Greek Islands
Koulourades of Syntagma Square
tional bagel) history goes back to the times of the Byzantine Empire and has a strong presence in the gustatory scene of modern Greece. Visit Koulourades of Syntagma, to get a taste of history through the always freshly baked koulouria sprinkled with top quality sesame seeds, with no fats or preservatives added. Their light texture makes koulouria the best choice for breakfast, but also the perfect light snack for those who are on a diet. As for those who like to match the traditional taste with a modern twist, in Koulourades you will find koulouria in many new, amazing flavors, with a sweet or salty filling that is sure to satisfy even the most demanding palates.
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DIPLO CAFÉ
themistokleous 70, exarchia fb: διπλο καφε
Housed in a beautiful, recently renovated, neoclassical building on Themistokleous Street
Saorsa Summer 2018
Diplo Café
in Exarchia, Diplo Café has been the absolute hangout in Athens for twenty eight years now. It is an all-day café that will welcome you with freshly brewed coffee in the morning and will keep you company till late at night. In the new, enriched menu, you will find great single origin espresso, a wide variety of teas, exquisite beverages and delicious snacks such as pizza and hearty burgers. Accompany your food by choosing among a great variety of beers. Follow us on Facebook and keep up to date with news about the DJ sets and lives that are often organized here.
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SAORSA
giatrakou 2, athens τel. +30 210 5235960 fβ: saorsa athens instagram: saorsaathens
In the Metaxourgeio neighbourhood, among several attractive drinking spots, Saorsa stands out for its relaxed yet vibrant atmosphere. Named after the Scottish Gaelic word
for ‘freedom’, Saorsa combines an indoor bar with an enclosed cool and breezy courtyard. Decorated with a subtle ‘breaking free’ theme, completed with open cages and prison bar-themed chairs, it is dominated by the impressive aged façade of a ‘30s Athenian house inside its courtyard. With a careful choice of music and the friendly and mixed crowds that Saorsa attracts, the place is the perfect all-day hang out. It opens early in the morning with some great coffee and stays open until the drinking wee hours. Make sure you try the signature cocktails – there is even a choice of ciders, which are steadily becoming popular in Greece, and ask for the list of snacks if you feel like having a light meal.
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TITANIA HOTEL
panepistimiou 52, athens tel. +30 210 3326000 fb: titania hotel
one of the most beautiful terraces in Athens, welcomes summer with Greek and Mediterranean flavors, cool signature cocktails and a relaxing atmosphere with easy listening music. The evenings at Olive Garden are illuminated from the Acropolis and the shimmering colorful, lined as a bright carpet edge-to-edge Athens But it’s not just the magnificent view and the summer atmosphere that will make you return again and again to Olive Garden. In a modern refurbished and very attentive space, on the 11th floor of the hotel, you will enjoy the flavors of creative Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, with the signature of executive chef Christos Tziliras. Fresh raw materials and products with Greek PDO and PGI are combined harmoniously in all the dishes of the new menu creating more than interesting flavors.
The cosmopolitan Olive Garden of the Titania Hotel,
Titania Hotel
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Welcome
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to the islands
Summer 2018
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Kolymbithra beach
Already well-known to Greek Orthodox pilgrims
as the site of one of the Orthodox Church’s most important shrines, Tinos is rapidly becoming known among travelers and tourists all over the world as a destination distinguished by the beauty of its unique landscapes, its traditional, perfectly preserved, villages and its exquisite cuisine. Increasingly trendy and recently discovered by the vacation home industry, Tinos is holding tight on its traditions, authenticity, and its unspoiled, hidden beauties.
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Sea view of the town of Tinos
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ue to crusades that afflicted Tinos as well as many of the neighbouring islands in the past, Tinos has a mixed Orthodox and Catholic population that coexist harmoniously. Communities continue to honor the production of old and unique, arts and crafts, such as the making of exquisite woven baskets of Volax. The traditional architecture, including the signature dovecote-decorated houses that are found everywhere on the island, is a major draw. The main town of Tinos is a good choice for who wants to be in the commercial center of the island and it offers many elegant choices for your staying, but one can find many handsome and more picturesque lodgings in the villages that dot the island’s interior. Choose
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Tinos for its soaring sea cliffs with the splendid views of the Aegean Sea, its sandy beaches, its craggy mountains covered in thyme and oregano shrubs, and its whitewashed villages crowned by handsome chapels.
Beaches Kolymbithra is without a doubt one of the most famous beach on Tinos. Located on the north coast of the island, and therefore exposed to the etesian winds (meltemia in Greek), has become a famous destination among surfers. The natural bay of Panormos is dotted with several beautiful beaches among which Agia Thalassa and many nice restaurants and fish taverns that serve fresh fish and delicious dishes cooked with local products. In
about one kilometer from Panormos you encounter Rohari, a big cove with clean sand, crystal clear light blue waters and shadowy trees, the absolute destination among young people. Get comfortable in one of the bolsters or hammocks under the trees and order an iced coffee or a signature cocktail from the Alohari beach bar. On the southern coast at Isternia bay you come across two quaint beaches; Kalyvia, a sandy beach with crystal clear waters and quite busy due to its well organized beach bar, whereas the other one is a more quite beach with pebbles. They are both protected from the northern winds since they face west towards Syros and the beautiful sunset. Further east lies the beach of Agios Petros, close to the village of Kardiani,
and Agios Romanos popular among families. A few meters away is Apigania, an especially quite place to spend your day and swim. Kionia and Agios Fokas both sandy beaches with beach bars and many amenities, are located close to Chora (capital of Tinos) and they are rather touristy, therefore not to be recommended for those who seek a more relaxing day on the beach. A fine, secluded beach in a walking distance from Chora, is Agios Markos where the winds quite often tend to be very strong. Agios Sostis and Agios Ioannis beaches are facing Mykonos to the east alike with Pachia Ammos which is a beach with a big dune, golden sand and crystal clear blue waters. Further along, you will encounter Lichnaftia, LiFO Greek Islands
a secluded beach with pebbles and sand, as well as Santa Margarita which is surrounded by large rocks. Livada is a dreamy beach with a breathtaking scenery due to the impressive rocks that surround it, it has crystal-clear waters and trees for shade, but keep in mind that access by car is quite tricky.
Sights and Experiences Tinos is one of the most visited places in Aegean Sea due to its significant role in the Greek Orthodox Church. The church of Virgin Mary of Tinos (Megalochari in Greek) on the 15th of August during the holiday of the Dormin-
ion of Virgin Mary gathers hundreds of pilgrims every year who travel there to fulfill their vows to the Madonna bringing with them tamata (silver votives and candles) to deposit at her icon. At the same day there are many festivals (panegyria) that take place all around the island. Tinos has a long religious history since the ancient times when pilgrims visited the sacred island to purify themselves at the temple of Poseidon at Kionia before departing for Delos. Therefore, religion has always held a strong and decisive role in the identity of the island. Some of the villages are populated by Catholics and in fact there are many
catholic monasteries on the island. The most important one is the Sacred Heart in Xobourgo. There are many hidden beauties to be discovered in the many perfectly preserved traditional villages around the island. Visit Xinara for its churches and the impressive views of the towering rock of Xobourgo as well as the ancient village of Arnado for its traditional architecture. The dovecotes of Tinos are unique monuments of folk creation. There are about 800-1300 dovecotes, built on slopes, all of them water oriented. You will inevitably come across them many times during your stay. The most impressive ones
are located in the valley of Tarampados. One of the unusual sights of Tinos is the landscape of the village “Volax”, due to the enormous round rocks that are found scattered around a vast territory, creating an otherworldly sight. The village of Isternia perched on a seaside cliff facing Syros constitutes the perfect spot for strolls and drinks at the all-day café bar situated in the main square of the village. Don’t miss to be there during the sunset. At the same time the village of Dio Horia offers stunning views while it is the ideal spot to have a light snack under the big plane tree in the village’s square.
Traditional decorated pigeon house in field located at Tinos island
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The central square of Pyrgos village
Culture and Events The village of Pyrgos, birthplace of legendary Greek sculptor Yannoulis Chalepas whose house is now a museum, is a place with a great marble-carving tradition. Don’t miss on visiting some of the many sculptors’ workshops as well as the exceptional modern Museum of Marble Crafts. As for those who are fond of contemporary art, a visit to the village of Kambos is a must. Tsoclis Museum, the only museum of this modern artist, (tsoclismuseum.gr) can be seen as the artist’s own curriculum through both his work and references to the work of other artists with whom he followed parallel paths. Last but not least, while in that area, don’t miss
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on visiting the House of Sketch of Mitropoulos brothers in Falatados village, the tenth museum of cartooning all over the world and the first one not only in Greece but also in the wider area of the Southeastern Mediterranean. Going back to Chora, pay a visit to the Cultural Foundation of Tinos (itip. gr) where contemporary art exhibitions are organized every summer, presenting the work of resident artists who are participating in the Tinos Quarry Platform. You will also find a small Archaeological Museum (+30 22830 29063) that showcases findings from the Temple of Poseidon and ancient settlements. Furthermore, you may find interesting to visit the
Museum of Tinitian Artists (+30 22830 22256) within the Virgin Mary of Tinos complex and the Traditional Ceramics Museum in the village of Aetofolia. Finally, a rather interesting festival, the Soul Food Festival which uses unused and abandoned spaces to showcase art, returns to Chora of Tinos on Saturday, July 7 and it will run through September 15. This year, a new multi space will be inaugurated in Tinos Town, comprising a gallery, a reading room, a gift shop, a covered terrace for artists and visitors, as well as for concerts and performances. Soul Food 2018’s theme is “Anarchy + Rebirth,” and through its exhibitions and events the festival is aiming to launch a dialogue on the challenges of change.
Moving around One of the largest islands of Cyclades, Tinos for its most part is covered with high mountains. There are 62 villages on the island, all easily accessible via a decent road network. Since the service of public bus transportation that connects the Chora of Tinos with the villages and beaches is not very frequent, it may be better to rent a car or a scooter. Alternatively, there are taxis with fixed prices that will take you anywhere you wish. The island is also covered by a vast network of hiking trails. If the temperature is not extremely high, you can choose to walk through the countryside to reach many villages and beaches.
LiFO Greek Islands
More to know Tinos is frequently called “handmade island” due to its long sculptural tradition but also because of the fact that the whole island is covered with manmade supporting walls (xerolithies) of nowadays abandoned hillside farms. Either you choose to eat in one of the many local authentic taverns or the more elegant restaurants, the fact is that you are in for an exceptional food experience. Among the
many delicacies try the traditional fourtalia or froutalia, an omelette with potatoes or artichokes and sausage, with some of the local and delicious Tinos cheeses and raki. Hiking and trekking on the island’s ancient trails, sailing at the local yacht club, horse riding, certified scuba diving lessons and taking surf lessons at Kolymbithra are only some of the activities one can experience while on Tinos. If you are looking for a
Mykonos’s style nightlife, Tinos is not your island. You can say that it is a rather calm island compared to other ones and it is definitely not the choice of party animals. There are fine restaurants, elegant bars, as well as some idyllic spots with great music for drinks with spectacular views.
Getting there
Tinos is connected daily by boat from and to Pireus and Rafina as well with other Cycladic islands. Private yachts can berth at the island’s main port (marina services available) or at Panormos bay in the north. There is a helipad on the south coast, near Agios Fokas beach. The Chora of Tinos is the capital of the island while other major villages are Pyrgos, Falatados and Isternia.
Tsoclis Μuseum
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Alohari Beach Bar
ALOHARI BEACH BAR Alohari Beach Bar, Panormos, Tinos FB: rocharibeachpanormos
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The Caribbean like cool atmosphere, the chill selection of music, the knitted bolsters under the colorful kiosks and the wind surf boards – that will surely become a favorite spot for every instagramer – compose the setting of the most original and alternative beach bar in Tinos. This year we are welcoming you for the 5th consecutive year, renewed the space grew even more - full
of positive vibes and surprises. Choose among the many refreshing, signature cocktails made by one of the most famous bartenders in Athens Elias Stergiopoulos from the legendary baba au rum, such as the Spicy Rochari or the best seller Zombie. And if you get hungry, our menu is full of tasty choices among which pizza rolls, salads, amazing brusquetta and more.
TRIANTARAKI Triantaros, Tinos Tel. +30 2283 041371, FB: kafeneiotriantaraki
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In the village of Triantaros inTinos, there is a new opening that is sure to bring new vibes to the area. Triandaraki was created with passion, in absolute harmony with the surrounding landscape giving a touch of refreshment and upgrading throughout the region. It is open all day long and welcomes you offering exceptional traditional products. In this beautiful and hospi-
table area of Tinos you will enjoy your morning coffee and you will taste the delicious delicacies and the incredible sweets in a beautiful cozy environment. Its staff is always courteous and ready to serve you, while there are cots for children right across the street. And the best of all there is a summer cinema that is being prepared for us!
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Triantaraki
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Living Theros
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Saint George Beach Bar LIVING THEROS Kardiani, Tinos, PS 84200 Tel. +30 6944439604, 6973883989 info@livingtheros.com Reservations: reservations@livingtheros.com Each Living Theros space exudes luxury, combining uniquely elegant furnishings with comfort and privacy. Discover the sophisticated and spacious open plan living rooms of Living Theros that perfectly combine the pure
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island white, gray, and green traditional Tinos marble. Let your eyes travel in the seamless succession of the Aegean blue with the unexpected shades of the horizon, and become one with the aura and tranquility that each room offers, while our staff is ready to satisfy your every wish. Live the Living Theros Luxury Suites experience and discover the rich and ancient history of the island, the great heart of the beautiful Kardiani and enjoy unique, carefree summer vacation under the blue Greek
sky. With its unique architecture, stunning design, warm hospitality and location, Living Theros Luxury Suites welcomes you to the vacation of a lifetime. SAINT GEORGE BEACH BAR Agia Marina Panormos, Tinos, saintsea18@gmai.com FB: saintseabeachbar Instagram: @saintsea_ tinos Saint Sea Beach Bar is the absolute tranquility summer
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destination. Located on the beach of Agia Thalassa in Tinos is a love at first sight location. The crystal clear emerald waters, the comfortable pillows, the colorful coffee tables and the burlap shades create a setting that takes you on a journey and gives you the feeling that you are someplace exotic. Relax and experience moments of absolute summer relaxation with coffee from early in the morning until late in the evening with cool and delicious cocktails.
LiFO Greek Islands
Crossroads Inn
CROSSROADS INN Tripotamos, Tinos, Tel. +30 2283 025443 FB: Crossroads Inn Σταυροδρόμια www.crossroadsinn. gr/el/
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Crossroads Inn, in its 7 restored traditional guest houses, in Tripotamos, Tinos, aims to give you a unique life experience of the island. Awarded for two consecutive years from the Greek Tourism Awards, it combines the traditional Cycladic aesthetics with modern high quality amenities, preserving the atmosphere of traditional while upgrading it to a sense of "home".
The authentic Cycladic hospitality is a way of life in Crossroads Inn: with a traditional welcome with tomato raki and local sweets, the map of Tinos unfolds before you together with all its treasures, in a special and 100% personal concierge experience, to enjoy your holiday to the fullest. Do not miss the traditional Cycladic breakfast, with local products and dishes, collected daily by selected producers or prepared by the women of the village that will provide you with the necessary energy to follow the hiking trails to the magical landscapes of the
hinterland. Once the sun sets, head to the vineyard and taste the grapes during the harvest period or enjoy a glass of wine, overlooking the Aegean Sea and the island of Delos. KALIMERA Evangelistrias 20, Tinos Tel. +30 22830 26548
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At "Kalimera", a cozy on the beautiful island of Tinos, you will be welcomed with a warm good morning and some top quality choices for Greek breakfast. The menu includes loukoumia, products from the
Chios Citrus Company, super foods, fresh fruit and vegetable juices from the vitamin bar, yoghurt with fruit, sandwiches and crisp fresh salads to start your day with a good dose of energy. In addition to the breakfast at this brand new all day café restaurant, you can also enjoy local raki and ouzo, accompanied by traditional varieties. And if you are in a mood for shopping, there is a wide collection of unique hand-crafted gifts from jewelry and marble creations from the Tinian artist Giorgos Gaitis, to a variety of handmade soaps with donkey milk, bath bombs, and essential oil salts.
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Kalimera
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TINOS HEART HOUSE 20 Evaggelistrias str., Chora Tinos 84200. Tel. +30 6984120243 info@tinosheart.gr www.tinosheart.gr
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Tinos Heart, an early 20’s neoclassical house in the heart of Chora at Tinos, is the ideal place for those who seek an elegant, airy lodging that offers a different kind of accommodation and at the same time all the commodities of a typical hotel. The
space is available all year round, and it can be rented by the day. Decorated with great taste, this spacious independent two bedroom house with a fully equipped kitchen and a big, sunny living room can accommodate up to five people. At only 350 meters from Evaggelistria church, Tinos Heart is within walking distance from the commercial streets of Chora making it easy to gain access to anything one can need while on holiday.
PETROS MARMARINOS ART GALLERY Pyrgos, Tinos Tel. +30 22830 31624, 22830 31524, 697203468 FB: Petros Marmarinos Instagram: @petrosmarmarinos 2017
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Petros Marmarinos, born in the village of Pyrgos in Tinos, decided to follow the artistic tradition of his birthplace and family when he attended the Panormos School of Fine Arts of Tinos. In the workshop-art
gallery he opened in 1995, you will find wonderful creations where the archaic sculpture blends with the modern one, the stone with the marble, the tension with the harmony, the light with the shadow. Throughout the years he has participated in many exhibitions and his creations have been presented and published in international media. You will find his gallery at the entrance of the village, opposite the "Tinian Artists" and "Giannoulis Halepa" Museums.
Tinos Heart House
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Petros Marmarinos Art Gallery
Ti
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MAYOU All-Day Bar
MAYOU ALL-DAY BAR Isternia, Tinos Tel. +30 2283 031882 FB: mayou.tinos
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Perched on the picturesque Isternia Village on the west side of Tinos Island, you will find MAYOU All-day Bar, one of the most beautiful
natural balconies in the Cyclades with majestic views to the Aegean Sea. Make a stop here before you set off for swimming and along with an iced coffee or their exceptional homemade lemonade, treat yourself to an amazing breakfast or branch by choosing among the many dishes prepared
for you by the chef with local products. And when the sun is down, MAYOU transforms to one of the best choices on the island to have a drink or a refreshing signature cocktail listening to great music while gazing at the stars and the open sea.
LiFO Greek Islands
Agia Thalassa, Panormos, Tinos
02—Mykonos 78–Mykonos
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Aerial photo of the iconic and famous beach of Super Paradise
Mykonos is a “dream vacation” destination with
an international reputation. Located at the very center of the Aegean Sea, it’s easily accessible and a convenient stopover on the way to other islands in the Cyclades. In the '60s, originally the destination of yacht-riding celebrities, cognoscenti, hordes of bohemians and gay people looking for beauty, creativity, and freedom in one of Greece’s peripheral regions, it has evolved into a famously gay-friendly, international resort island open to anyone who can afford its steep prices from single tourists, couples, families, to tourist groups. Summer 2018
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plendid beaches, posh restaurants and bars, relentless night life, and world-class shopping have turned Mykonos, the windy and rocky island of turquoise waters, into a place with magical vibes that can offer unforgettable holidays to everyone. Away from the busy harbor and Chora’s noisy nightlife, one can always get away and enjoy some peace and quiet at the more remote beaches while tourists interested in culture and civilization will get the chance to enjoy the signature traditional architecture of Mykonos’s whitewashed cubiform houses its and labyrinthine street plan, its illustrious ancient ruins on the nearby Island of Delos, and its fine, local archaeological museum. Lo-
cal handicrafts, spirits, and delicacies are available next door to galleries showcasing world-class contemporary art. Mykonos is a tourist paradise that will spoil you and seduce you like no other Greek island will. The month of August is very busy, so if you want to visit the island it may be better to opt for the periods between May and July, or from September to October.
Beaches Meltemia is the Greek word for the summer etesian winds that blow in Mykonos from the north through-out the summer. Choose your favorite beach depending on where the meltemia/ the wind is blowing from, which usually means that the safest bet are the southern beaches.
The island offers more than 20 beaches most of which are accessible by car, taxi, public bus or boat. So pick your means of transportation and head to the usually well-organized with sunbeds, umbrellas and barrestaurants picturesque bays with crystal clear and cold waters with pristine sand. Kalo Livadi, Elia, Super Paradise, Paradise, Paraga, or Psarou beaches are ideal for the trendy crowds that look for loud music, fancy food and endless partying. Kalafatis and Lia are popular for their water-sports and scuba diving. For fresh fish seek out the tiny bay of Agia Anna near Kalafatis, while families with children and yachters might opt for the well-sheltered Ormos bay, which is closer to the Chora
(main Mykonos town) or Megali Ammos if it’s not very windy. Platis Gialos is also very popular but touristy, while Agios Ioannis is on the southwest boasting great sunset views and a picture-perfect panorama of the island of Delos. Most of the southern beaches are serviced regularly by boat taxis that depart every hour from Ornos bay and Platis Gialos which makes it easy to hop from one beach to the other. The northern beaches of Mykonos are more exposed to the winds and for that less crowded, fact that makes them the ideal choice for who longs for serenity. The landscape is completely different with harsher rock cliffs, pebbly beaches on occasion, and a sense of unspoiled wilderness. There
Little Venice
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Having fun in Mykonos
is no public transportation connecting them and usually there is no organized beach bars with sunbeds, umbrellas or drinks to buy. You have to find your own way to reach them but be fully prepared for a day under the hot sun. Panormos and Agios Sostis are a good example of this kind of beaches which are among the most beautiful beaches of Mykonos. The first is popular with surfers while the latter is nudists and pets friendly. Ftelia, also within the Panormos bay, is a very beautiful beach but usually extremely windy. Fokos, a remote rocky cove with deep blue waters in the northern coast, offers the ideal place to get away from it all. While there, don’t miss on eating in the high
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class tavern on the beach where quite often you will have your lunch or dinner among many international celebrities. The nearby beach of Myrsini is even more secluded.
Sights and Experiences A must-see half-day trip while you are in Mykonos is the one to the ancient sanctuary of Delos, a UNESCO world heritage site which is well preserved and is been characterized “the Pompei of Greece”. An island no more than 2miles Southwest of Mykonos it was a considered a sacred place in antiquity - the birthplace of Apollo, god of light, and his sister Artemis, goddess of hunting. In Hellenistic times Delos prospered as a
free port. As a cosmopolitan city of commerce and the biggest slave trade center of eastern Mediterranean at the time, sea culture and wealth flourished pretty much as Mykonos in our days. A boat ticket to Delos is 20 euros and the ticket to the archaeological site 12 euros (6 euros discount for elderly) that include a visit to the local museum (+30 22890 22259). Swimming is not allowed but you should consider taking a sun screen and a hat with you since the tour through the ruins is long. Visitors are to leave the island after the sunset. Mykonos town is a protected monument in its entity because of its traditional architecture. Follow your instinct and stroll around the labyrinthine alleys and
travel to old times when pirates dominated the sea and people had to lock themselves into their fortified houses. In the beautiful neighborhood of Alefkandra you will find the island’s only Catholic Church, while another landmark of Chora (capital of Mykonos) is Paraportiani by the old medieval walls, a complex of 5 churches. The Old Harbor promenade is lined with old mansions, once homes of the wealthy captains and merchants of Mykonos. Other interesting sights of the town include the iconic windmills, the Agia Kyriaki square, and the colorful Little Venice where the houses are built right on the water. For an excursion head to Ano Mera, the island’s only village or visit Panagia LiFO Greek Islands
Tourliani monastery (+30 22890 71249), built in 1542.
Culture and events The Mykonos Archeological Museum (+30 22890 22325) houses ancient ceramics from Delos and other sites, and is currently hosting the exhibition “Vanity”, featuring ancient and contemporary Greek jewelry. In the Mykonos Folklore Museum (+30 22890 22591), there is a collection of historic artifacts, traditional handiwork, and documents of the island’s past. The Mykonos Municipal Gallery (+30 22890 27791) is currently hosting an exhibitions titled “Mykonos through the gaze of artists from the interwar period to 1960”. An especially busy gallery is Dio Horia Contemporary Art Platform (www.dioxoria.com) that hosts exciting art shows by international and residence artists. There are two upcoming openings in July 31 and August 23 while Athenian Skoufa gallery has opened an annex
in Mykonos (+30 22890 28560) and is also hosting exhibitions of Greek art. During summer of 2018, the Cultural Organization “G. Axiotis” of the Municipality of Mykonos will be hosting the 1st Mykonos Art Festival. The aim of this new institution (www.mykonosartfestival.com) is to create an annual cultural event of the highest level and quality, worthy of the reputation and special position of Mykonos as a unique international destination. Panegyria are big feasts with music, dancing and eating, usually organized by local communities in the context of the religious holidays. Out of more or less 50 panegyria that take place throughout the year the most popular in Mykonos takes place on August 15 the holiday of the Dormition of Mary, which is celebrated at the monastery of Panagia Tourliani in Ano Mera. Another panegyri) on July 7 takes place in the little church of Agia Kyriaki in Delos while
another one that is dedicated to Agia Anna on July 25 takes place in Myrsini beach. The biggest panegyri in Mykonos takes place on September 14 at Marathi at the Stavros (Holy Cross) Church. Panegyria are a good opportunity to taste local food and wine, and also to buy traditional arts and crafts such as colorful woven textiles and elaborate lace made by Mykonian women. Getting around: Taxis in Mykonos are not the commonest to catch since during summer months the demand is high. There are fixed rates for trips which are announced on the official Mykonos taxi website (mykonostaxi.com). Local buses provide access to most popular beaches as well as the village of Ano Mera, and is of a low cost transportation. Renting a car, scooter or quad is also an option to reach far away beaches and other sites. For a more traditional mode of transportation, small boats (qaiques) depart from Ornos
and Platis Gialos heading to all southern beaches hourly (10:00 – 17:00, 10 euros return ticket, 20 euros day pass).
More to know: Umbrellas and sunbeds on the most popular beaches can be hard to find on busy days, so consider booking one a day in advance. The parties are on the south coast but the hidden beauties of Mykonos lie in the north coast. For those who like equitation thy can always explore the island’s natural landscape on horseback. If you are into designers’ clothes and accessories there are exclusive boutiques that you can find walking in the alleys and on main Matoyanni route. Groups might consider a private boat trip to Delos and adjacent small island Rhenia to visit the archaeological site and swim in Rhenia’s unspoiled beaches. Watch a movie under the stars at the open-air Manto
A street in Mykonos town
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Mykonos island aerial panoramic view at night
cinema-theater, or enjoy a light meal or a drink in its beautiful garden. Rent a car or ask for a taxi to bring you to Armenistis Lighthouse which was built in 1840 in order to illuminate the sea trails between Mykonos and the nearby island of Tinos. Be in Chora’s Gyalos in the evening to watch the most spectacular
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sunset in Mykonos. If you feel like taking a hike and see Mykonos from a panoramic view, climb up the hill of Profitis Ilias. There is a chapel on the top that offers 360-degree views of the entire island.
Getting there:
Mykonos is one of the most popular Greek destinations. During summertime is very easy to reach it by boat from the port of Piraeus and the port of Rafina near Athens, as well as from most Cycladic islands. There also frequent direct flights to Mykonos from Athens (40 minutes), Thessaloniki (1 hour) and many European airports. The New Port of Mykonos offers berths and marina services (electricity and water only) for private yachts. LiFO Greek Islands
Tytó Mykonos
LiFOice Chyokonos M
TYTÓ MYKONOS 25 Matthaiou Andronikou str., Mykonos Tel. +30 2289 022420 www.tytomykonos.com FB: tytomykonos Instagram: @tytomykonos
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Tytό is the wisdom of eclecticism. Come to warm up your soul and bring joy to your heart and the hearts of those you love. Our journey is endless as is our passion for the eclectic selection. With the wisdom of the heart, we have collected items of unique character to create a full collection of timeless pieces, from flowing dresses and etheric Kaftans, to embroidered shirts and artistic Jewelry. Shoes and sandals, bags and hats will dress you up for a heavenly boho beach style. You will find items and objects to satisfy your heart and enrich your desire for goodness and beauty. Our vision and goal is to make our customers feel at home. Leave the beautiful prints and warm colors of tytό pleasantly immerse you in the atmosphere of the island, while sipping cocktails and enjoying life. Our eclectic brands Vassilis Zoulias, Parthenis, Sotiris Georgiou, Maria Mastori, Yvonne Bosnkjak, Zeus+Δione, Katerina Karoussos, Liana Vourakis, Jamin Puech, Lakis Gavalas, Ioanna Kourbela, Marina Vernicos, Evi Grintela.
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Nesaea NESAEA 02 Agia Anna, Kalafatis, Mykonos Tel. +30 22890 72130 FB: Nesaea When the special and local products of the islands meet the special philosophy and identity of Nice n Easy, the result can only be divine. Nesaea, a new member of the Nice n Easy team on Agia Anna Beach in Kalafatis Mykonos, following the same policy of all the group’s restaurants, combines tradition with the farm to table philosophy. At Nesaea you will get the chance to taste the Greek
island cuisine in its most spectacular and creative form, with the signature of the beloved chef Christos Athanasiadis. In a simple, Cycladic space with beautiful views, you will taste recipes and materials of the Greek islands and delicious dishes like the unlikely deconstructed onion sauce with a sous-mousse made of Greek goat cheese.
LiFO Greek Islands
Nice n Easy Mykonos
NICE N EASY MYKONOS Alefkandra Square, Mykonos Town Tel. +30 22890 25421 FB: Nice n Easy
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At Alefkandra Square in Mykonos there is a restaurant that has captured all the flavors and tastes of the island and welcomes you to an unforgettable culinary journey. Nice n Easy Mykonos, a member of the well-known restaurant group, is situated in a beautiful area, in one of the most fascinating locations on the island. The traditional products and local recipes in the hands of the creative mind of chef Christos Athanasiadis are transformed into amazingly tasteful dishes, treating you with a unique culinary experience for all the senses. The restaurant, like all the other members of the group, follows the farm to table philosophy, offering us organic local products, by combining healthy eating with the unbelievable flavor.
Pepper
PEPPER Souvlaki and more 18, Kouzi Georgouli. Tel:22890 27019 https://el-gr.facebook.com/ Peppermykonos
It made its debut in 2013 in one of the most central places of Mykonos and ever since the people of «Pepprer Souvlaki and more» with emphasis on fresh ingredients, keep up with the same philosophy and faith concerning the best quality. In one of the characteristic white narrows
of Chora, you will taste the flavors of a truly unique grill house at this elegant place and you will enjoy rich dishes based on the Greek cuisine. As you can imagine by its name, souvlaki here holds a prominent place in the menu and it’s a real masterpiece!
SPALA Alefkandra Square, Chora Mykonos Tel. +30 22890 25421
Spala, the new surf and turf restaurant of nice n easy group in Mykonos, will become the favorite hangout of all the gourmants of the island. Quality meats, fresh fish and seafood are creatively combined in the menu, sometimes even in the same dish. The menu has been curated by the executive chef Christos Athanasiadis and includes among others, tartar of fresh
Aegean tuna with lime, wasabi, olive oil and chives, and water-jug Kerkini in chicken soup with vegetables. Spala loyal to the farm - to - table philosophy of the group’s restaurants combines the flavors of a classic grill house with quality products, prime raw materials and exquisite ingredients and herbs from every corner of Greece.
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LiFOice Chyokonos M
Spala
90–Mykonos
LiFO Greek Islands
Mykonos View
LiFOice Choonos Myk
MYKONOS VIEW Mykonos Tel. +30 2289 024045 www.mykonosview.gr
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Mykonos View is more than a hotel complex; it is a white city built on a slope with a panoramic view of the capital of Mykonos and the Aegean Sea. One of the most beautiful hotels on the island of the winds, Mykonos View is a newly renovated complex, with minimalistic aesthetics and dominant elements of stone and wood. Being in perfect harmony with the natural environment, it offers comfortable and luxurious accommodation with brand new superior doubles and spacious suites. Relax in the heavenly swimming pool that reminds a deluxe ship deck and enjoy the sunset at our Dream Bar, while sipping cocktails accompanied by majestic views and lounge melodies. Extra tip: In the mornings treat yourself to a rich American breakfast, with a wide variety of jams, fruit salads and sweets.
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SantAnna 07
SANTANNA Paraga Beach, Mykonos Tel. +30 2289 025805 FB: SantAnna Mykonos santannamykonos. com/
SantAnna on the beautiful Paraga Beach of Mykonos is the ultimate relaxation and entertainment all day venue. Recently renovated, it welcomes summer of 2018, with the promise of inexhaustible sunsets, explosive parties and unforgettable moments. Its refreshed dĂŠcor with wooden furniture and comfortable knitted hammocks exudes a luxury boho wind, while the excellent service will be one of the many reasons to return again to this amazing place. His restaurants are waiting for you to taste delicious
dishes inspired by the local cuisine of Mykonos and Cyclades, with an emphasis on organic raw materials and quality ingredients from small producers. So take a seat and enjoy your meal overlooking the endless blue of the Greek sky and the crystal clear waters of Paraga Beach.
LiFO Greek Islands
03—Santorini 94–Santorini
LiFO Greek Islands
Waiting for the sunset in the village of Oia in Santorini, Greece
Approaching Santorini (or Thera, by its ancient name) by boat
you will get rewarded with breathtaking views of the uniquely beautiful marine volcanic landscape of the island. Crescent-shaped Santorini and a scattering of small islands define the contours of the ancient volcano. The crenellated rim of the “caldera” offers jaw-dropping panoramic views of the bay, the surrounding islands, and the whitewashed villages of bluedomed churches. Summer 2018
Santorini–95
A wall painting of ancient Thera
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he cone of the new volcano is peering above the waves in the middle of the caldera. Quintessentially Cycladic, effortlessly cosmopolitan, and uniquely shaped by the forces of nature, this island offers refined hospitality and unforgettable experiences that live up to its reputation as the most visited island in the world. Bask in the sun surrounded by colorful cliffs; enjoy a meal on a terrace with caldera views, and then party from night till dawn on a black sand beach to the tunes of international DJs. Vineyard tours and archaeological expeditions to the stunning pre-eruption Bronze Age town of Akrotiri, complete the Santorini experience. Visually stunning, worldly, yet intimate, Santorini is a preferred wedding and honeymoon destination. The unforgettable setting, its history, and the seasoned hospitality of local com-
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munities make Santorini a world-class tourist haven.
Beaches Because of the volcanic rocks and strong presence of nature’s elements, created by the massive 1600 BCE volcanic eruption, Santorini boasts some of the most unique beaches in the Cyclades. Minerals of unusual colors and lava create a truly amazing landscape for swimming that has nothing to do with the typical sandy beaches found elsewhere, but are just as beautiful to swim and relax. Monolithos beach is on the west tip of the island, fully organized with sunbeds and umbrellas, bars and beach sports. It takes its name from the huge monolith nearby and it is especially popular to families. A bit to the north lies Exo Gialos which often hosts DJ parties while Kamari beach, one of the most popular in the Cyclades, has everything
a tourist needs from hotels to restaurants and bars. On the southwest coast you will find a long stretch of beach that connects the villages of Agios Georgios (Perivolos) and Perissa with dark volcanic sand. There are many bars along the beach and water sports available at Perissa. The beach of Vlychada is facing southwest and has a unique and impressive landscape of cliffs and caves. Another well-known beach, is the Red Beach, that lies at the foot of a red volcanic cliff but since it is not accessible by car, you can either walk down the hillside or take a boat from the nearby village of Akrotiri. There are some sunbeds and a café so make sure you arrive early to get a spot. For more quite options head to the nearby White Beach which is much smaller therefore secluded.
Sights and Experiences The fact that Santorini is
an active volcano and the way its most villages are built right on the lip of a 300-mettres-deep caldera makes it immensely impressive. The Santorini volcano erupted thousands of years ago with such force, that the island collapsed into the sea and only a small part remained in the form we know it today. The eruption and the ensuing tsunami destroyed entire cities and civilizations at the time, but it also created one of the most breathtaking views in the world. An archipelago of dark rock formations floating in the Aegean blue like in a hazy dream. An outstanding experience on Santorini is to take a boat tour to the caldera and visit all the amazing beaches and volcanoes scattered inside it. You can swim in the hot springs on the island of Old Kameni, and visit the volcano’s crater on Nea Kameni. Ideal for a day trip is the small island of Thirassia, LiFO Greek Islands
The Old port Ammoudi of Oia village
where you can spend a day away from the crowds and explore its little villages, or book a private boat tour to the remote beaches. The villages on the edge of the caldera, among which Oia and Fira, offer the best views and are famous for their densely-built Cycladic houses. The two villages are easily connected through small roads, so if you enjoy walking, you can stroll along the caldera and discover unexpected views. Make sure to reach Oia just in time for the famous Santorini sunset, which many consider as the most beautiful in the world. In the island’s mainland there are traditional villages with ancient vineyards and wineries. Santorini has been producing wine for thousands of years, and has developed its own varieties of grape and wine. Visit the village of Messaria, which is right in the heart of Santorini’s wine region, for local wine tasting and exploring the interesting mix of architecture by walking among the
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cave houses and mansions. Before its destruction by the volcanic eruption, Santorini was an important center of the Minoan civilization. The archaeological site at Akrotiri revealed the tip of a prosperous prehistoric city buried in volcanic ash. You can visit the mansions buried under the ash and admire the masterful frescoes adorning the walls. The archaeological site of Ancient Thira is built on top of a hill on the east coast and is only accessible via a long stepped path. The highest point of Santorini is the mountain of Profitis Ilias, which is one of the most important monastic sites in the Cyclades. Visit the monastery of Profitis Ilias for its architecture as well as for its splendid views.
Culture and Events A must-visit place is the Museum of Prehistoric Thira (+30 22860 23217), which houses the treasures and artifacts that were discovered at the excavations
in Akrotiri. The Archaeological Museum of Thira (+30 22860 22217) presents findings from excavations on Santorini from the Archaic, Classical and later periods, while at the Icons & Relics Collection (+30 22860 31812) in Pyrgos there are fine works of art from the Late Byzantium and Medieval times. A 19th century mansion in Oia now houses the Naval & Maritime Museum of Santorini (+30 22860 71156), with documents of the island’s long seafaring tradition. On the other side of the island, at the village of Vothonas, a cave has been transformed into a Wine Museum (+30 22860 31322), introducing visitors into the art of making wine in Santorini. There is also a Museum of Minerals & Fossils (+30 6937 257660, +30 22860 82273) in the village of Perissa. One of the island’s most important cultural venues is Santorini Arts Factory (+30 22860 85141), on the beach of Vlychada, that hosts art
shows, theatrical performances and music concerts. During summer of 2018 it will present the photo exhibition T-FACTORY by artistic photographer Christophoros Doulgeris. On the road from Fira to Pyrgos there is the AK Art Foundation (+30 22860 21506), an artist-owned gallery which hosts contemporary art exhibitions. In Fira discover the sea-inspired work of visual artist Yorgos Kypris in his permanent exhibition at Mati Gallery (+30 22860 23814). La Ponta Venetian Castle (laponta.gr) in Akrotiri offers an alternative kind of experience where traditional bagpipes are displayed and one can participate in art workshops or listen to local music. This year’s 40th International Music Festival of Santorini will be held under the artistic direction of Athena Capodistria from 7th to 21st of September at the Petros M. Nomikos Conference Centre in Fira, including six concerts of different musical genres. LiFO Greek Islands
According to the “Guardian” the best bookstore in the world is located in Santorini. As a result, “Atlantis” (+30 22860 72346) is presented on all lists of the most beautiful bookstores of the planet. On its shelves one can find mainly foreign language books, with an emphasis on literature and philosophy. With its reputation spread rapidly by word of mouth, “Atlantis” bookstore has become a reference landmark of Oia; a place where every year various festivals along with discussions and events are organized there. Santorini like all islands has its own panegyria, the typical Greek musical festivals that take place during important religious holidays. The biggest panegyri (singular) is on August 15 the feast for the Demolition of Mary at the church of Panagia Episkopi at the Profitis Ilias monastery as
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well as on Thirassia where wine and food is served.
Moving Around Public bus transportation (KTEL) on Santorini is the most convenient way to move from one village to the other as well as to the airport. The main bus station is in Fira. Taxis are also available and will take you to any part of the island, while there are cars and scooters rental services. Though the best way to explore the beaches of Santorini is by boat, either by joining a boat tour or with a private yacht. Hikers will also have the chance to explore the trails connecting the different villages and the steep paths descending down the cliffs to the beach.
More to know One of the most picturesque spots on Santorini is the tiny fishing village of Ammoudi,
which is tucked inside a stunning cliff of red rock. The village has great fish taverns and amazing sunset views, which is why it is so popular among tourists who gather every evening on its 200 steps to take pictures. Armeni which is the old port of Oia is pure vintage Greek nostalgia and a great spot for a swim and taking photos. You can reach it either by descending the winding path that donkeys used to climb carrying visitors or by boat. There are five wondrous venetian castles to explore in the villages of Oia, Imerovigli, Pyrgos, Emporio and Akrotiri. Their remains revive Santorini’s glorious past when pirates laid siege to the island. For an unforgettable sprawling view of the caldera and the Aegean horizon, head to the lighthouse near Akrotiri. It might be a bit of a drive, but the views are worth it,
especially at dusk when the sky and the cliffs are changing colors.
Getting there
It’s very easy to arrive to Santorini either by sea or air. Frequent ferries depart from Piraeus and Rafina to Santorini daily, as well as from many Cycladic ports. There are also direct flights from and to Athens, Thessaloniki and over 20 European airports, most of them available mainly during summer season. Private yachts can berth at the marina at Vlychada (provides electricity, water, wifi), and there are helipads both on the main island and the small islet of Thirasia. The capital of Santorini is Fira, and the most important villages are Oia, Imerovigli, Emporeios, Kamari and Akrotiri. The main port Athinio is approximately 20 minutes from Fira and 40 minutes from Oia. LiFO Greek Islands
Suites of the Gods SUITES OF THE GODS Caldera, Megalohori Santorini Tel. +30 2286 028856 FΒ: SuitesoftheGods
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In the center of Santorini, in the area of Megalohori the Suites of the Gods luxurious boutique hotel welcomes you to start your holidays, giving them the necessary touch of luxury. The beautiful rooms with the magnificent views of the Caldera and the islands will delight you, while each suite is uniquely decorated and elegantly designed to
make your stay there one of a kind experience. Visit our beautiful Cave Spa in its completely refurbished cave rooms, and enjoy health and beauty treatments in a relaxed environment with a friendly atmosphere. Don’t forget to visit the sauna or the steam bath, for a complete relaxation experience.
LiFOice Chnotorini
Sabbia Nera
Sa
SABBIA NERA Kamari beach, Santorini Tel. +30 22860 33007 FB: SabbiaNera Trattoria
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DEMILMAR SANTORINI Beach Beach, Santorini Tel. +30 22860 85070 demilmar.com/perissa FB: Demilmar
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When the magic of the mountain meets the endless blue of the sea then you know you are at the beach bar restaurant DEMILMAR of Santorini. It is there that a stunning summer journey to fantastic flavors, musical choices and unbelievable cocktails begins while overlooking the beautiful black beach of Perissa. All you have to do is bring your summer mood and leave the magic of the landscape and the DEMILMAR team, take care of all the necessary details to make you experience unique moments of relaxation, full of comfort, luxury and simplicity.
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Demilmar Santorini
Once you visit Kamari, one of the most cosmopolitan beaches of Santorini, you will immediately notice Sabbia Nera, a restaurant with elegant decoration and high aesthetics which is known as one of the best trattorias of the island. The variety of tastes will surprise you pleasantly. Inspired mostly by the Italian cuisine Sabbia Nera’s menu presents a big variety of pasta, risotti and delicious pizzas, all made with ingredients from Italy. You will also have the chance to try dishes of the Mediterranean gastronomy and of course the characteristic delicacies of Santorini. Accompany your meal with a bottle of wine from their very interesting wine list or just relax in one of their sea-beds with a refreshing cocktail or a cold coffee.
LiFO Greek Islands
Mylos
Mill Houses
LiFOice Chnotorini Sa
MYLOS Firostefani, Santorini Tel.+30 22860 25640 FB: Mylos Bar Restaurant
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Should you find yourself in Santorini this summer, make sure to visit the Mylos Bar Restaurant. A many times awarded restaurant, Mylos offers a wide selection of unique and delicious dishes. In the rich and creative menu you will find a wide variety of cooked dishes, while the chefs undertake the preparation of wonderful creations for the vegetarians. Enjoy your meal with a spectacular, panoramic view of the island and a special atmosphere that will stay in your memory forever. Since Santorini is one of the most romantic islands in Greece, if you are on a vacation with your other half, Mylos is the ideal destination for a candlelit dinner for two. Drop by the bar and taste some of the excellent wines on the list, or order one of the many refreshing and enjoyable cocktails served at Mylos.
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Yalos MILL HOUSES Firostefani, Santorini Tel. +30 22860 27117 FB: Mill Houses Elegant Suites www.millhouses. gr/EL/millhouses_ services_EL/
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In the famous Caldera of Santorini, just above the sea, Mill Houses is ready to offer you the most romantic holidays of your life. Relax and enjoy the amazing, enchanting sunsets that you will remember for a lifetime. With breathtaking views of the caldera its restaurant welcomes you with a menu full of imaginative dining suggestions and an
excellent list of superior quality wines that seems to have enclosed all the perfumes and charm of the island. YALOS Exo Gialos, Thira Tel. +30 2286 025816 www.aegialos-beach. com/el/santorinibeach-bar
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refreshing fruit juices, coffees, signature cocktails, delicious snacks and Mediterranean dishes made with the freshest local raw materials will accompany you while you enjoy some moments of rest on one of the most beautiful Greek islands. And if you are planning your wedding on the island this place for an unforgettable party!
Located in the nearest beach to Fira, at Exo Gialos, a small, typical beach of Santorini with black sand and volcanic rocks, this all day bar – restaurant is the place to be. Yalos beach bar is the ideal place to enjoy your whole day by the sea. Relaxing sun beds,
LiFO Greek Islands
Kamari, Santorini Tel.: 2286033007 SabbiaNeraTrattoria http://sabbianera.gr/
Tango Bar
LiFOice Chnotorini Sa
TANGO BAR Marinatou str., Fira Tel: +30 6974498206, 6945417875 info@tangosantorini. gr
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Tango Bar is not just a bar, but the absolute destination for all those who truly want to have a great time during their stay in Santorini island. Start early and enjoy the sunset from the beautiful balcony listening to lounge music. As the night comes, a whole new world unfolds in front of your eyes when you walk through the door and down the steps leading to Tango’s beautiful veranda. Great music and refreshing cocktails that taste like summer set the tune. This year’s cocktail list is better than ever: Rich, simple and fruity, classic but with a special twist or even your own idea one thing is certain; the talented bartenders of Tango’s bar will aim to please you. Extra tip: Don’t forget to try this season’s apple caramel martini (vodka, fresh green apple, caramel syrup) or honey mango margarita (tequila, mango juice, fresh lime juice, Greek honey).
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Amor Hideaway Villas BAGIATIKO King Thiras Str, Tel: +30 2286 022092 www.facebook.com/ ΜπαγιάτικοFoodBarBayiatikoFood-Bar www.bagiatiko.gr
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AMOR HIDEAWAY VILLAS Fira, Santorini Tel. +30 22860 31264 www.amorsantorini.com/el/
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If you seek for a luxurious yet comfy summer holiday then Amor Hideaway Villas is the ideal choice for you. Situated in a quiet spot near the capital of the island, Fira, Amor Hideaway Villas consist of 5 villas, where modern comforts meet the Aegean, Cycladic architecture. Whether you are having a
romantic holiday with your significant other, or want to spend an unforgettable summer with your friend or family, the stunning sea view, the relaxing pool of each villa, and especially the warm and welcoming staff at Amor Hideaway Villas will make your stay a truly enjoyable experience.
Bagiatiko Food bar is a new meeting point in the cosmopolitan Fira, in Santorini, for all those who want something tasty to eat, but don’t like waiting. Greek delicacies such as the famous souvlaki and gyros prepared with local meat are on the menu here as well as delicious burgers with the ingredients of your preference, refreshing salads and many more.
LiFO Greek Islands
04—Syros 110–Syros
LiFO Greek Islands
The town of Syros
Impressive monuments and neoclassical mansions
properties of the old sea captains and merchants of the island, dominate the landscape of Syros –Cyclades’ most “European” and worldly island in Greece. Its strategic location in the heart of the Cyclades island group and its leading role in the 1821-30 Greek War of Independence brought great wealth and prosperity to the island and its graciously spread on two hills capital of Ermoupolis.
Summer 2018
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oday serving as the capital of the Prefecture of the Cyclades, Ermoupolis has a beautiful and capacious port accommodating ferry traffic, yachts, commercial vessels, as well as a, now idled, historic shipyard. Its waterfront is dotted with handsome cafes and restaurants and it is the terminus of tributary streets full of both traditional and trendy stores. The town features some of the finest public architecture in Greece, including an elegant neoclassical city hall and a gorgeous 19th century opera house, which hosts international festivals and supports its long tradition in music history, arts and letters. The island’s Venetian and Genoese past is in full display in Old “Syra”, the traditional settlement that overlooks the 19th century planned town. Beyond Ermoupolis, idyllic beaches, some of
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which feature eateries and have beach umbrellas and chaises-longue available for rent, add more grace to the island. Neighboring with the famous islands of Mykonos and Santorini, Syros is a gem of a top notch Greek island destination.
Beaches With a glorious history of a prosperous past, and magnificent beaches for summer fun and a vivid nightlife, Syros is a place that offers more than meets the eye. The southern and western beaches are wellprotected from the northern winds while most beaches are accessible by bus. If you want to have a swim on the premises of Ermoupolis head to the pebbly beach of Agios Nikolaos (also known to the locals as Asteria), or the sandy beach of Azolimnos which is organized with sunbeds, umbrellas, bars
and restaurants. Further down on the south coast you will find Vari, a family oriented sandy beach with nice restaurants. More nearby options include Achladi on the opposite side of the bay and the much less crowded Fabrica beach on the east. Drive by car further east to find the completely isolated Katergaki beach, ideal for snorkeling and scuba diving. Another good option on the south coast is the picturesque cove of Megas Gialos with a sandy beach under the shade of umbrellas and trees. To the west you will find the much quieter Ambela beach. Organized Agathopes beach offers beautiful views of the nearby island rocks as well as a stunning sunset. The nearby Foinikas is another popular beach with great fish taverns, watersports and a marina. For who seeks peace and quiet there
is the choice of Komito, a secluded beach to the south, and Kokina to the west. Galyssas beach that faces on the west is one of the most popular and organized beaches on Syros where one can participate in a number of watersports or just visit it to gaze at the sunset from the chapel of Agia Pakou. Behind the chapel there is a tiny little cove, which is a nudists’ haven. Further north there is Kini beach with crystal-clear waters, picturesque taverns and elegant restaurants and according to many the best sunset view on the island while in Delfini beach near Kini there is a fine beach bar with nice music. The most pristine and isolated beaches on Syros though, are the ones that are part of the national reserve on the northwest coast, at Ano Mera, accessible only by boat taxis or on foot. LiFO Greek Islands
Sights and Experiences Syros like most Cycladic islands has been a Venetian colony for centuries. This is why the island has two religious communities, one Catholic and one Orthodox. Among the many catholic churches the most prominent one is the Cathedral of Saint George from 1200 CE while the most important Orthodox churches are the church of the Transfiguration, built in 1824 by refugees from Chios and Psara, and the Assumption of the Virgin, built in 1828, where you can see an original El Greco icon, the important Renaissance painter from Crete. A landmark of significance in Ermoupoli is Miaouli Square, named after a famous 19th century admiral. It is dominated by the neoclassical façade of the Ermoupoli Town hall, designed by legendary architect Ernst Ziller and
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was completed in 1891. On the highest hill there is the old town quarter, known as Ano Syros, where you can wander in the characteristic medieval alleyways of the Venetian settlement that was founded in 1200. In the countryside visit the archaeological sites of Kastri and Haladriani, which date back to the Cycladic Civilization era (5,000 years ago). The traditional villages of Episkopio, Chroussa and Pagos are particularly beautiful and worth visiting on a day trip excursion with the supplement of a delicious dinner at a local tavern. Nature lovers would enjoy the rural area of Ano Meria with its quaint little farmsteads and authentic landscape. If you are into hiking head to the Natura 2000 natural reserve in the northwest end of Syros and discover a network of hiking trails that will let you explore unknown sites of the island.
Culture and Events Syros is hosting a number of museums that carry treasures found all over the region. At the Archaeological Museum of Syros (+30 22810 88487) there are treasures from important Cycladic archaeological sites, mainly between 5,000 and 2,000 years ago. At the Industrial Museum (+30 22810 84762) there is a wide documentation of the island’s history as a center for agriculture and manufacture through a collection of machinery and relics from a time when Syros was exporting leather, fabrics and other goods. The Ecclesiastical Museum (+30 22810 82582) showcases important relics and religious artifacts from Syros as well as from other Cycladic islands, offering that way an overview of religious art and craftsmanship. Many events take place in Ermoupoli throughout sum-
mer attributing a cosmopolitan and cultural prestige to the island. The Art gallery of the Cyclades (+30 22810 80918) presents a number of exhibitions by Greek artists during summer months while the annual Festival of the Aegean (festivaloftheaegean.com) is entering this year its 14th season between July 15 to 28, 2018 with classical and church music. Syros – Culture 2018 is a large festival of culture featuring music, dance, cinema, theater and visual arts which takes place in various venues across the island (June – September 2018). This year the Syros International Film Festival (syrosfilmfestival.org) takes place between July 17 to 22, 2018. Syros has its own tradition of panegyria as well, the festivals with folk music, local food and wine during important religious holidays. The most important panegyria in Syros are those of the Dormition of Virgin Mary on August 15 LiFO Greek Islands
SEMINARIO RESTAUTANT
Klonos str. & 7 Kyparissou Stefanou str. Hermoupoli T.: 2281301339 – 6942803508 e-mail: seminario.syros@gmail.com web: seminariosyros.wixsite.com/seminariosyros
that take place in several villages. On the eve of this important religious holiday, in the village of Kini, the traditional custom of Fotarides takes place during which villagers illuminate their houses and the beach with candlelight creating a magical atmosphere. Moving around Syros is large island with several villages and beaches which are all served by public bus transportation. The main bus station in Ermoupolis is a few meters from the ferryboat dock. Taxis are available for city moving and beyond. You can also rent a car or scooter in order to explore the island on your own. Part of the island is not easy to
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reach by car so if you want to visit distant places and remote beaches you will have to use a boat taxi from Kini beach or take the risk to do it on foot.
More to know The coasts of Syros are natural habitat for the Mediterranean seal, which is considered an endangered species. Many seals come here to give birth during the months of September and October. They are extremely shy so avoid visiting remote caves and beaches during this period of time as not to disturb them. Visit the aquarium with your family in the village of Kini, to learn about marine animals and aquatic veg-
etation. There are several scuba-diving and sailing schools on Syros. This will help you discover the beauty of the sea above and beneath its surface. Taste local delicacies such as the Syros loukoumi (a kind of marshmallow), halvadopites (nougat pies), and pastelaries (sundried figs with sesame). There are even more exotic recipes as the aetopita (a pie made with fish and vegetables) as well as a version of dolmades (meat patties wrapped in cabbage) with raisins. Discover Syros countryside on horseback. You will find an equestrian club in the village of Livadia.
Getting there
Syros is the capital of the Cyclades. There is easy access by sea as well as by air. There are direct flights from and to Athens, Thessaloniki and some other major Greek and European airports. There are daily boats connecting Syros with Pireus and Rafina (1,5 hours by high-speed boats) and to many other major island ports. Private yachts can berth at Syros port and the marina at Foinikas bay (water, electricity and diesel are provided). The capital and port is Ermoupoli. Other villages are Azolimnos, Chroussa, Episkopo, Foinikas, Galissas, Kini, Megas Gialos, Posidonia and Vari.
LiFO Greek Islands
Semimario
LiFOice ChSoyros
Lila’s Guesthouse
SEMIMARIO Klonos & Kyparissou Stefanou 7 Ermoupoli, Syros Τel. +30 22813 01339, 6942803508, seminariosyros.wixsite.com/ seminariosyros. FB: Σεμινάριο In a picturesque alley filled with bougainvilleas in Ermoypolis, Seminario Restaurant has been operating for two years now, and as its name suggests, it is not a simple restaurant but a tasting
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seminar in the Mediterranean cuisine. Among the many dishes on the menu, you will enjoy an ancient Greek salad accompanied by fresh sea bass and a glass of top quality Greek wine, or the delicious Euphoria Salad with fresh salmon fillet. The juicy homemade beef burgers dressed with a sauce made from the award-winning gourmet San Michali cheese will delight you, while there are many delicious and original choices for the vegetarian and vegan
of the company. LILA’S GUESTHOUSE Ioannou Kosma & Filikis Eterias, Ermoupoli, Syros Tel. +30 22810 82738 An old stone mansion, which was restored in 2003, operates as a guest house with three rooms and three suites, equipped with everything you might need. The rooms also have an attic to accommodate a third person, while the
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suites are 50 sq. meters big. With two bedrooms for 4-6 people, a coffee maker, a fridge, a safe, air con and hair drier. The color, the decoration and the furniture are aesthetically pleasing. It is ideally located close to the port should you need to take a trip to the nearby islands. It is also close to historical sites, the casino and nightclubs.
LiFO Greek Islands
Chrisanthi Zarari Jewelry Shop
Filomila
LiFOice ChSoyros
Kriari
CHRISANTHI ZARARI JEWELRY SHOP Melinas Mercouri 6, Syros Τel. +30 22810 89086 chrisanthi-zararijewelryunique-itemsdesign.business.site Walking towards the emblematic Apollo Theater in Ermoupolis, you can’t miss Chrisanthi Zarari’s, ART SHOP. With inspiration from the endless blue of the Aegean Sea, Chrysanthi Zarari uses unique materials to match the style of each piece; she designs jewelry, clothes and sandals that bring Cyclades in every woman’s wardrobe.
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From the linen and cotton handmade shirts, to the silk kimonos and the beautiful sandals made in Syros, the collection of Chrysanthi Zarari consists of handmade pieces made with the best technique and high aesthetics. Pass by her Art Shop or visit her Facebook page to get a taste from her unique creations KRIARI 1 Bardaka sq Hermpupolis, Syros Tel. +30 22810 76997 FB: Kriari ‘’Kriari in Ermoupolis Syros is more than a store. Housed just opposite the Apollo
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Theater, Kriari that takes its name the pre-doric god Apollon, is a unique place where creativity is in constant conversation with elegance and innovation. Through a thorough selection among the best Greek and foreign designers, Kriari becomes a place of art as well as of shopping. Treat yourself with a visit and let the hostess walk you through the top quality fabrics, the particular perfumes and elaborated objects and keep yourself up to date for any cultural events that are often organized in this unique place.
FILOMILA Foinikas Beach Τel. +30 22810 62088 mezedopoleiofilomila. gr FB: Μεζεδοπωλείο-ΤηςΦιλομήλας Filomila’s is an excellent choice for lunch or dinner when visiting the Foinikas beach. This family owned restaurant has been operating for 13 years and belongs to the Aegean Cuisine network of restaurants. Filomila offers a menu of local food using only local produce based on Cycladic recipes. If you pay them a visit you will have the magical opportunity to dine right next to the sea
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LiFO Greek Islands
05—Serifos 122–Serifos
LiFO Greek Islands
View of Chora village
The Island of Serifos is located in the western
Cyclades, south of Kythnos and northwest of Sifnos, and it is a serene and beautiful retreat. With a permanent population of about 1,500 inhabitants this island is the perfect destination for those who seek sun-drenched beauty and serenity away from the mass tourism circuit.
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Windmills in Chora
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ccupied since the Neolithic era, famous by its celebrated son, the hero Perseus, Serifos preserves vestiges of its rich past: the ruined towers from the Hellenistic period, the remains of the Latin Empire occupancy, a 16th century monastery with castle walls
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to repel pirates, and the abandoned grounds, buildings, and jetties of an industrial era ferrous metals mine the site of one of Greece’s most significant worker rebellions create a unique scenery. An arid island of wild beauty, it is graced with no fewer than 72 beaches. Hillsides
are fragrant with sage and thyme bushes. Serifos is a beautiful and a serene beach haven that proves that the Cyclades are the ultimate destination for all types of tourists.
Beaches Megalo Livadi beach is located on the south coast of the island. It is partly sandy and partly pebbly, with clean shallow waters and tamarisk trees offering generously their natural shade. There are some nice taverns nearby. Agios Sostis beach is at LiFO Greek Islands
6 km east of Livadi, the port of Serifos. Though accessible by car, you will have to leave your at the parking lot and continue on foot for about 200 m to reach the water. It is a nice sandy relaxing unorganized beach with a picturesque church located on the edge of a cliff. Psili Ammos beach is located on the east coast about 8 km north from the port of Livadi. It is accessible by car up to the two taverns where you have to park your vehicle and walk the rest of the distance. A nice sandy beach with crystal clear waters and a line of tamarisk trees, which has once been voted as one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece in the Sunday Times. There are no sunbeds and umbrellas but you can buy water and food in the nearby taverns. There are also boats connecting the beach while it tends to attract many yachts. Ganema beach is on the southern coast. It is connected by bus with Livadi beach. It is a long partly sandy and partly pebbly beach with many tamarisk trees offering natural shade. Very quiet and ideal for isolation without sunbeds and umbrellas it is a beach with crystal light blue waters. There is a cantina as well as a hotel in the nearby Vagia beach which is also another amazingly nice sandy beach with crystal clear blue waters. They are both part of Koutala bay. Livadakia beach is located on the south western coast. It is well protected from the winds (meltemia) with many tamarisk trees offering natural shade. It is one of the most popular beaches on Serifos semiorganized with a camping that provides sunbeds and a beach bar. If you want more privacy, you can walk Summer 2018
to Karavi beach, an almost isolated spot that attracts nudists. Kalo Ambeli beach is one of the most isolated on the southern coast. Sandy and pebbly is reachable up to a point by car but then you have to continue on foot. Since it is unorganized and there are not even the usual tamarisk trees for shade, you will have to bring your own umbrella. Sykamia beach is a relatively remote beach with crystal clear waters and only few tamarisk trees for shade. Due to its northern location it can get very windy. There is a small tavern that provides water and traditional Greek dishes but no sunbeds and umbrellas. You can reach it by car. Platis Gialos bay in the north coast, one of the quietest beaches to relax it is a very small and sandy beach with clean waters, some tamarisk trees and a tavern. Lia beach is near the port of Livadi. It is a completely unorganized nudists’ beach. It is pebbly with clean waters and since there are no trees or a cantina you’ll have to bring your own umbrella and cold water. Agios Ioannis beach is near Psili Ammos and it is a fine isolated beach with pebbles at its left part and sand at the right. It has clean blue waters and there are tamarisk trees for shade. Unorganized, it is reachable by car but you have to descent a stairway to the beach. Malliadiko beach can be reached by car from Megalo Livadi though you will need to walk the last 400m distance. It is isolated, completely unorganized and unspoiled with pebbles and sand, crystal clear waters, and tamarisks for natural shade. It is the preferred beach among the nudists and the free campers.
Sights and Experiences Serifos is an island of unique wild beauty with naked hills and fertile valleys, endless beaches and coves that add a special touch to its identity; the absolute destination for those who seek paradisiac nature. Since it doesn’t have significant touristic development a visit to Serifos might be proven a combination of isolation and socializing. The amazing main town – Chora – is considered one of most beautiful in the Cyclades. It sits on a hill with its whitewashed houses cascading down on one side. The handsome Church of Agios Athanasios adorns Ano Chora’s (upper town’s) main square, while the neoclassical Town Hall dominates the Pano Piatsa district. Kato Chora (lower town) is a maze of alleyways that would delight strollers. It features houses with gardens bedecked with colorful bougainvilleas. In Ano Chora there are also three windmills in perfect maintenance – the most characteristic architecture mark on the Cycladic islands - while on the top end of Chora stands the Castle, a fortified village that was created by the Venetians in the 1430s. You have to climb some steps in order to reach it but the view of the sea as well of the sunset is astonishing. Hiking, walking and cycling are activities that you could consider participating in and there are routes /
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A beach in Serifos
hiking trails that lead you to either the landmarks of the island or remote beaches. An interesting monument is Aspros Pyrgos (white tower in Greek); you will find it on your way to Megalo Livadi and Koutalas from Chora. It is a structure, mostly ruins today, that dates back to the 4th century BCE. It was used as an observatory and consisted of big white marble boulders that rose cyclically towards the sky. In a short distance from Aspros Pyrgos a small road leads to Cyclop’s throne, also known as Psaropyrgos. Nearby there are more ancient ruins that are supposedly connected with the cave of Cyclop Polythimos, the mythical giant from Homer’s Odyssey. At the same time at the north end of Kallistos village there stands a 2m high solid rocky “Tholos” (dome).
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On the south edge of the island in cape Spathi stands the Lighthouse of Serifos. A stone construction built in 1900 with a surrounding patio with an astonishing view of the Aegean Sea. There is a lot of windsurf and kite surf in parts of the island as well as canoeing and scuba diving. The 6th Sunset race (www.serifosrace.com) that includes running and swimming will take place in Serifos in 2223 September 2018.
Culture and Events There is a Folklore Museum (+30 22810 51181) housed in an old mansion in Kato Chora opposite the church of Agios Antonios preserving and displaying the local heritage. Right behind it there is the open theater of Serifos where many events take place during summer. There is also a moderate Archaeological Collection (+30 22810 52611) located at the Square of windmills in Ano Chora with findings from 4th century BCE until 7th century CE. In its yard there are parts displayed from the Castle of Chora and of Aspros Pyrgos. To those who are interested in Byzantine architecture you should visit Church of the Koimisis (also known as Xilos Panegyria) a rare example of a well preserved 10th century domed church
with 12th century frescos. A number of festivals with concerts also take place on Serifos covering all types of music while Panegyria (Greek feasts with music and food dedicated to saints) in many parts of the island are also common during all year round especially in August.
Moving around Serifos is a small island and therefore easy to move around. Public transportation doesn’t cover all parts of the island and in many cases you have to have your own car or walk. Many villages and beaches are connected with Chora and the port of Livadi. There is a taxi service but you can also rent a car or bike.
LiFO Greek Islands
The main square of Chora town with the Town Hall and a Christian Orthodox church
Getting there
Serifos is part of the West Cyclades island complex. Its main town and capital is Ano Chora and its main port Livadi. During summer there are daily ferries from the port of Pireus to Livadi. The same boats connect Serifos with other Cycladic islands.
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LiFO Greek Islands
Pende Serifos
CORALLI CAMPING Livadakia, Serifos Tel. +30 22810 51500
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A fully equipped camping area located in a spot which combines both the sea breeze and the lush vegetation of the island. The camping includes a restaurant, a bar, a mini market, a coffee shop, a grill etc. The toilets and showers are squeaky clean and there are also washing machines and dryers and cooking areas. CORALLI APARTMENTS Livadakia, Serifos Tel. +30 22810 51500
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Just 100 metres from the sea (and 5 minutes from the port) stand these beautiful apartments which have room for up to 6 people, with all available amenities. Some of them include a living room, kitchen, personal toilet, safes, air condition, TV, fridge. You can enjoy a view over the beautiful garden and sea.
Krinas Rent A Car
CORALLI BUNGALOWS Livadakia, Serifos Tel. +30 22810 51500 Located at the centre of the island, just 5 minutes from the port, these bungalows have either one or two rooms and can host 2 to 4 people. They are fully equipped with air condition, TV and safes and offer a view over the garden.
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KRINAS RENT A CAR Livadakia, Serifos Tel. +30 2281051488
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Here you can choose your preferred transport vehicle through a comprehensive list of cars and motorcycles. You may pick up and return the car from your preferred location.
PENDE SERIFOS Livadakia, Serifos Tel. +30 22810 51571, 6982348797 pendeserifos.com If you seek accommodation that combines affordable luxury with traditional elements, Pende Serifos will be more than a pleasant surprise. With three separated holiday complexes quite close to the seaside in the villages Livadakia and Alona, Pende Serifos stands out for its high aesthetics promising a dreamy stay on the Cycladic Island. Either you choose the newlybuilt boutique hotel Pende Suites or the stone-made independent Pende villas, ideal for families and big groups of friends, or the Pende Nature Residents that consist of traditional perfectly attoned to the environment “Kelia” and “Mandria”, Pende Serifos is the epitome of high-end aesthetics.
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Calma
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CALMA Livadi, +30 22810 52328 A modern venue in Serifos with a relaxed atmosphere, Calma is located over Livadi beach and has sun loungers and tables where you can enjoy yourself eating good breakfast and drinking coffee. It is ideal for families since the beach is protected by the strong Aegean winds. In the morning it is rather child friendly but as the day progresses the staff places pillows on the beach and the atmosphere becomes more relaxed. Calma operates as a restaurant offering seafood while in the evening the atmosphere becomes mellower and more romantic. All dishes are made with simple flavors and top quality raw materials. Try our fantastic salad pasta, the exquisite fresh squid or sardines, our risotto that really stands out and of course our lighter choices such as burgers and club sandwich.
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Coralli Camping LiFO Greek Islands
06—Crete 132–Crete
LiFO Greek Islands
Balos bay
It’s no wonder why the ancient Greeks thought that
Zeus might have been born in Crete. An island of divine beauty and grandeur, with the longest history in Europe, with rich folk culture, and an indomitable spirit Crete is the absolute vacation destination. Not many places on this planet combine snowcapped mountains and palm-strewn sandy beaches within an hour’s drive. Greece’s largest island, “Megalonissos,” or “the Big Island” for the Greeks, lays at Europe’s extreme south.
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Seitan limania or Agiou Stefanou, Chania, Akrotiri
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ts temperate northern coast is surrounded by the Aegean Sea and hosts the Island’s largest cities, Heraklion and Chania, both well-connected to major air travel hubs in Europe. Its semi-tropical southern coast – a true beach paradise – gazes at North Africa across the Libyan Sea. Its tall, majestic mountains that run through the island are dotted with dozens of traditional villages that are part of the island’s internationally celebrated culinary tradition. Crete is a microcosm of the Eastern Mediterranean and, under the grace of the Minoan civilization; it is Europe’s most ancient historic gateway.
Beaches With 1000Km of coastline you will meet a great number and variety of beaches from sandy ones at the north part to ones
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with pebble at the south coast, there is a beach for every taste in Crete. In the region of Chania, only a few kilometers outside the main town with easy access, there is the long coastal stretch of Agia Marina. It lies by a busy road of hotels, supermarkets, souvenir shops and restaurants and as a result it can get very crowded by hordes of tourists and locals. It is a long wide beach loaded with sunbeds, beach bars and watersports centers. In the opposite direction, on the east side of the region, you will encounter the busy peninsula of Akrotiri where the best choices are Stavros beach where scenes of the movie “Zorbas the Greek” were shot and the well-hidden Seitan Limania that differ a lot from all the rest beaches due to the fact that nature created three inlets between the steep cliffs of the peninsula. You have to drive towards
northwest of the Chania town in order to find the unbelievably beautiful beaches of Falassarna which can get very windy with waves but it offers the best sunset view. The only other beach that vies with Falassarna’s beauty is the white sanded Balos beach – lagoon located on the northwest edge of Crete no more than 15 km from Kissamos, formed between the rocky islet of Gramvoussa and cape Tigani. Once a meeting point for pirates, Gramvousa a favorite destination of daytrippers, can be accessed mainly by boat since there sits the ruins of a large Venetian fortress. The tiny uninhabited islet of Elafonisi is nothing less than a small paradise but unfortunately tends to be spoiled from the relentless influx of visiting boats and tourist groups. The coast is covered with coves, bays and rock pools with flat white sand and
sun-hot shallow waters. It is also a breeding ground for sea turtles and the last European stop for birds migrating to Africa. There are several long beaches inside the bay of Kissamos but if you want to avoid the touristy crowds drive to Afrata or Marathi which are popular mainly among the locals. The pebble beach of Sfinari is a great spot for snorkeling. On the south coast, in about 73Km from Chania, lie the beach of Paleochora with its long sandy beach and an ancient Venetian tower above it. It is well organized with sunbeds while the tamarisk trees offer natural shade. Nearby there is a harbor with a smaller pebble beach with taverns and cafés. From here you can take a boat to the island of Gavdos, the most southern edge of Europe. Glyka Nera is a remote and beautiful beach near Chora Sfakion surrounded LiFO Greek Islands
View of the old port of Chania
by stunning cliffs and is very popular with nudists, but you can get there only on foot or by boat from the nearby village of Loutro or Chora Sfakion. There is a beach that lies right in front of the castle of Frangokastello, an imposing edifice of brown and orange stone. Sandy in its biggest part as soon as you enter the water you realize that the sea stays shallow for more than 100 meters. Semi organized with a tavern and sunbeds while the tamarisk trees offer their shade here too. Consider visiting the amazing beach of Preveli where a spectacular lagoon lies between the sea and a steep gorge that lead to the Preveli Monastery. In Rethymno there is a 12-km-long beach that begins from the town and stretches to the west, but the part close to the town tends to get crowded. The pebble beach of Geropotamos has an impres-
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sive natural setting and is organized with sunbeds, but if you want a really reclusive beach seek out the hidden cove at Panormos. About 21 kilometres west of Rethymnon you will find the 7 km sandy beach of Georgioupolis. There are three rivers running into the sea while the main village has become a wellknown resort with massive eucalyptus trees that offer natural shade and create a pleasant environment. On the south coast, head towards Rodakino and try to find the secluded beach at Agia Marina. The beaches at Ammoudi are very beautiful but are usually crowded, and the locals usually swim at Kerames and Akoumia. The north coast of Heraklion is very touristy and dominated of hotel complexes and seaside restaurants. Choose among the beaches of Agia Pelagia, Karteros and Kokkini Hani if you are looking for loud
music and lively atmosphere, while if you want tranquility opt for the swallow beach near Paliokastro which is a much quitter with a nice little restaurant on it. The resort town of Hersonissos in 26 km east of Heraklion has several beaches for all tastes, some with watersports centers and clubs. On the south coast, there is Matala beach that used to be a haven of the hippies in the ‘70s while the picturesque beach of Kokkini Ammos welcomes nudists but is accessible only on foot or by boat from Matala. Ayiofarago is a wellsheltered beach that is also accessible only on foot via the nearby gorge or by boat from the village of Kaloi Limenes. Psili Ammos is hidden inside a rough bay under impressive cliffs, but is only accessible on foot or by boat from the village of Lentas. Lasithi is the easternmost region of Crete, a beach
that attracts a more alternative crowd. Driros is one of the best beaches in the famed Elounda bay, with tamarisk trees growing right on the edge of the water. There are some excellent beaches conveniently situated near the town of Agios Nikolaos, but the beaches at Kalo Horio are much quitter. Other amazing beaches on the south coast are Ferma, Agia Fotia and Kalo Nero.
Sights and Experiences Crete is an island of astonishing natural beauty, with big mountain ranks occupying most of its mainland. The many gorges found on the island are a hiker’s dream, with Samara Gorge being the most popular one and the longest in Europe at 14 km. The gorge is in the region of Sfakia, which is a corner of Crete worth exploring for its natural beauty and traditional culture. Other unique natural LiFO Greek Islands
A fresco from the Knossos Palace
locations are the lagoon and sandy beaches of Elafonisi on the southwest coast, and the impressive forest of palm trees at Vai, where there is an organized beach. On the uninhabited island of Gaidouronisi you will find amazing golden beaches but also a forest of ancient cedars. The beach at Preveli is one of the most famous spots in Crete, where a river meets the sea and forms a sandy barrier with an oasis. The documented history of Crete begins some 4,700 years ago with the rise of the Minoan civilization and its maritime empire that was known all the way to Egypt. The ruins of this prosperous nation of seafarers have been unearthed at several locations on Crete, the most famous and impressive being the palace of Knossos, and the town of Faistos and Malia. Meanwhile, a visit to any of Crete’s three main towns will bring you face to face
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with monuments from different eras, including Byzantine, Medieval and Ottoman buildings. Crete also played an important role in World War II, so many monuments and landmarks relate to that time. The Cretan countryside is dotted with small villages that are worth exploring for their authentic character and amazing food culture. It’s hard not to taste a bit of everything when in Crete, since every region has its own local recipes and treats, many of which are offered during annual festivals. The main ingredient of Cretan cookery is of course the olive oil, which is being produced on the island for thousands of years. In fact, there are olive trees on Crete that are considered to be over 1000 years old. The most active regions for the production of oil are Heraklion, Chania, Siteia and Kolymvari, where you can visit the
olive groves and even take a tour at a local oil press.
Culture and Events The Archaeological Museum of Heraklion (+30 2810 279000) is the most important museum on Crete, and carries treasures from the Minoan palaces unearthed on the island. The Archaeological Museum of Chania (+30 28210 90334) is housed inside an impressive medieval cathedral, and in Lasithi region there are archaeological museums in Agios Nikolaos (+30 28410 24943) and Sitia (+30 28430 23917). In Heraklion there is also a Historical Museum (+30 2810 283219) dedicated to the island’ s history from Byzantine times to World War II while in Chania there is the Nautical Museum of Crete (+30 28210 91875) housed inside the town’ s medieval fort. In the region of Rethymno you will find the Museum
of ancient Eleutherna - Homer in Crete (+30 28340 92501), the first archaeological site museum on the island, that was created to house the findings of the excavations carried out for thirty years in the ancient city of Eleutherna. In Rethymno town there is the Museum of contemporary art (+30 28310 52530) with a permanent collection. Summer 2018 is presenting two temporary exhibitions: “Paper moon” with works made of paper by international artists hosted in the museum as well as in the Kara Mousha Pasha Mosque from June 1 to September 15 and “Fragmentation” at the Warehouse of the Artillery inside the Fortezza of Rethymno. There are also dozens of summer festivals in Crete, most of which take place and coincide, just like in the rest of Greece, with the religious holiday of the Dormition of Virgin LiFO Greek Islands
The main church of Arkadi Monastery, Rethymno
Mary in August 15. Also known as Panegyria these are big feasts that bring the communities together and involve a lot of traditional food, drink, music and of course dance. Other festivals are organized to promote and celebrate local traditions and products, such as Amari Green Festival (July 21-25) and the Kissamos Culture Festival (August 12-20). In the city of Heraklion there is an annual Heraklion Summer Arts Festival (July – October) with theater, music, dance performances and visual arts exhibitions. In Ierapetra the 5th International Documentary Festival (www.festivalierapetra.gr) will take place August 4- 9, 2018. This is some of the artistic activity of Grete though during summer a number of temporary events take place in all major cities.
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Moving around A network of public buses connects all cities to villages and many important beaches and resorts. You will find schedules at the local stations (known as KTEL) while in Heraklion just opened the most high technology bus terminal in Greece, offering a number of ultra helpful services. Renting a car is a good idea if you are planning to cover long distances on your own since the island is so vast, and scooters or bicycles for within the cities short distances. The taxis in Crete are usually silver and they are a good choice for moving to and from the airports or within the bigger cities. Some remote beaches are reachable only by sea and boat taxis.
More to know Crete is the largest Greek
island, and in is 260km long. Covering the whole island in a few days is very ambitious, if not impossible. Focus on certain areas and discover them in depth rather than setting out to do a full tour of the island, unless you have plenty of time to spend. Arrange a daytrip along the coasts of Crete, or even a complete tour of the island by yacht to discover the best and most secret beaches and fish taverns. Contact a local agent to assist you. Visit the island of Spinalonga in Elounda bay, a former leper colony that inspired Victoria Hislop’ s 2005 best seller novel “The island”. Another interesting excursion would be a visit to the island o Gavdos, the southmost point of Greece as well as Europe. There are many mountains for the lovers of hiking and rock-climbing,as well as spectacular coasts full of
wildlife for scuba diving, breathtaking cliffs ideal for paragliding and deep gorges in Sfakia for bungeejumping.
Getting there
Crete is the largest island in Greece and the fifth in the Mediterranean Sea. Its capital is Heraklion and its most important towns are Chania, Rethymnon, Ierapetra, Agios Nikolaos, and Sitia. There are two international airports in Heraklion and Chania, and a small regional airport in Sitia. The airports connect Crete with Athens and other major Greek cities as well with many European airports. There is a regular ferry service that connects Piraeus with Chania (9 hours), Heraklion (7 hours) and other ports of Crete. There are yacht marines in Agios Nikolaos, Heraklion, Gouves and Rethymnon.
LiFO Greek Islands
Δεμ Jewellery
LiFOice Chhoania C
Let’s Drive ΔΕΜ JEWELLERY 56 & 67 Potie str Chania, Tel. +30 28210 40384
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Right in the center of Chania you will find two jewelry stores that definitely deserve your attention. Two siblings, Dimitris and Elena Mparnia, coming from a family with tradition in making jewels, create their own unique pieces, which are well known all over Greece. Using gold, silver but also other materials such as ebony, glass and silk fabrics they present a beautiful collection
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of hand – crafted jewels for both women and men. At their stores, apart from their own creations, you will also find selected items of some other talented Greek designers such as M. Margoni, Apostolos, T. Choremi, Chr. Soubli, Kk Jewelry Lab, Sarina etc. LET’S DRIVE It is a member of the Greek Car Rental Association.
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LET’S DRIVE is a premier provider of car rental services in Greece, founded in 1996
and committed to delivering high-value solutions for individuals, private companies and organizations. It manages a vast, modern fleet, ready to accommodate the most complex, demanding or exclusive client needs. It offers an extensive variety of vehicles with an average age of two years, ranging from small city cars to luxury sedans, and from mini-vans to SUVs (4x4). Choices include automatic, diesel or specialty passenger vehicles, as well as luxury VIP vans, which are provided with or without professional drivers.
LET’S DRIVE presence expands to the Athens International Airport, the port of Piraeus, numerous locations in Crete and popular Greek destinations, and, through its extended network of partners, anywhere across the country. LET’S DRIVE is a member of the GELASAKIS Group of Companies, a privately owned business group based in Greece and operating across the globe, active in the travel, maritime and hospitality sectors.
LiFO Greek Islands
Mesogiako Restaurant
Bluebell Hospitality Collection
LiFOice Chhoania C
Georgina Skalidi
MESOGIAKO 03 RESTAURANT 36 Chatzimichali Ntaliani str, Chania, Crete Tel. +30 28210 57992 www.mesogiako.com Situated in a renovated building opposite the Turkish Minaret in one of the most picturesque and vivid streets of Chania, the restaurant Mesogiako is one of the top choices for tasting a creative variety of Greek and Mediterranean cuisine. Its garden is ideal for summer romantic dinners. You will find lots of interesting dishes and inspired salads in the menu, among which the famous escallops with black truffle sauce and the deliciously grilled sea bass with vegetable kous-kous – delicacies that are just
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too good not to try. Don’t forget though to have a bite of its homemade desserts that will surprise pleasantly your palate! BLUEBELL HOSPITALITY COLLECTION 17 Chatzimichali Daliani str., Chania, Crete Tel. +30 28210 20003, 6979331071, 6947606472 www.bluebellsuites.com info@bluebellsuites.com Located in the most colorful and vibrant street of the Old Town of Chania, where you can find many shops, cafés and restaurants, Bluebell Hospitality Collection is an ideal choice for your stay in the city and a comfortable basis for your exploration to its beauties. Bluebell Hospitality Col-
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lection consists of Bluebell Luxury Suites, Bluebell Minaret Suites and Bluebell Luxury Apartments, 14 brand new and luxurious units appointed with minimal aesthetic and furnished with attention to detail.Combining luxury and vibrancy, Bluebell Hospitality Collection can give you impeccable hospitality and memorable accommodation, providing all the comforts for a unique boutique experience. GEORGINA SKALIDI
05 Chatzimichali Daliani 58, Old Town, Chania, Crete Τel. +30 28215 01705 shop online: www.georginaskalidi.com www.georginaskalidi.com FB: georginaskalidi
store is situated in one of the most beautiful, picturesque and lively streets of the old town of Chania. With the desire to create a special and pleasant place where every woman could showcase her individuality and her unique style Georgina Skalidi’s store first opened its doors in 2011. Feel refreshed by choosing among a wide variety of bags, sandals and accessories designed by Georgina Skalidi, as well as many other Greek talented designers, that stand out for their high quality and their innovative designs.
Georgina Skalidi’s LiFO Greek Islands
32, Chatzimichali Daliani str., Chania T: 28210 57992
Lemonokipos
LiFOice Chtohymno Re
Pepi Boutique Hotel LEMONOKIPOS RETHYMNO 100 Ethnikis Antistaseos Str., Old Town, RethymnoCrete Tel. +30 28310 57087 info@lemonokipos.com reservations@lemonokipos. com
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Lemonokipos (Greek word for lemon-tree garden), an all-day family restaurant with a yard full of lemon trees, is situated in one of the oldest neighborhoods of Rethymno in the heart of the historical center of the town. With a wide range of
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classical as well as modern Greek recipes, Lemonokipo’s team chooses fresh seasonal products from local producers in order to achieve the best gustatory result. Accompany your meal with a bottle of wine from the always up to date list of contemporary Greek labels and indulge yourself in a unique gastronomical Mediterranean experience. The Garden at Lemonokipos is also available for exclusive hire for events. To arrange a group seating or plan a private
event, please contact our team to discuss further PEPI BOUTIQUE HOTEL Tsouderon 22, Old Town, Rethymno, Crete Tel. +30 28310 26428 www.pepiboutiquehotel. gr/en
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Housed in a typical Venetian building in the heart of Rethymno's old town, the Pepi Boutique Hotel is among the top choices for those looking for luxury lodging on their vacation. The comfortable living rooms decorated in natu-
ral shades adorned with wooden and old decorative elements, combined with the outdoor spaces full of local herbs and lemon, orange and palm trees, evokes the dreamlike "dolce far niente" Tuscan midday. The specially designed wine-tasting areas, the Cretan raw materials that are used creatively in the modern-day breakfast, the card of aged cocktails served in the bar; along with a concierge touch create the most romantic setting.
LiFO Greek Islands
The beach called Tis Grias To Pidima
07—Andros 148–Andros
LiFO Greek Islands
Mountainous, verdant, and rich in water, unlike most
of the neighbor Cycladic Islands, Andros is a hikers’ paradise. Eighteen well-marked trails define 85 kilometers of walks across valleys, waterfalls, old stone bridges, and historic watermills. Beautiful stone and pebble beaches surround the island, many of them remote and unencumbered by development. When it comes to Andros’ its naval history is quite important. In the medieval period, it served as a stronghold of Venice. Summer 2018
Andros–149
A small chapel in Ano Felos
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ship-owners’ and captains’ island, in modern times, it epitomizes Greece’s global leadership in commercial shipping. Its main town – Chora – is built on a spectacular stone outcrop jetting into the Aegean. A strong commitment to architectural neoclassicism makes it statelier and differentiates it from towns in other Cycladic islands. Its proximity to the mainland makes it a popular weekend getaway for Athenians. Art lovers will rejoice in discovering a fine museum of contemporary art that hosts extraordinary art exhibitions annually. A quality retreat well-known to Greek tourists, Andros is becoming increasingly popular with discerning international travelers.
Beaches East of the port of Gavrio look for the impressive bay of Vitali, a white sandy
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beach sheltered by rock cliffs. Even though it looks remote and the access by car is not easy there is a cantina that provides sunbeds and umbrellas. A couple of freshwater lagoons lie at the back of the beach. A rough track that begins from a tiny chapel above the bay leads to the other side where there is another beautiful beach. Agios Petros at the south coast is a long sandy beach with crystal clear waters well organized with three beach bars, sunbeds, umbrellas and water sports. There is also ample free space for those who prefer to lay directly on the sand. It is connected with equally nice sandy beaches of Chrysi (or Psili) Ammos and Kypri. Achla beach at the northeast side of Andros may be what you have in mind as a summer paradise. Not easy to reach by car it is better to take the boat from Neibori bay. Totally unorganized
it would be a good idea to take cold water with you and whatever is needed to be protected from the sun. Fellos beach not far from the port of Gavrio is a nice pebble beach with clean waters and tamarisk trees that provide plenty shade. It is protected from the winds and there are rarely any waves. There is no beach bar to provide sunbeds or umbrellas. The beach of Zorkos 16 km from Gavrio is connected with the main road with a 3 km dirt road, but you will be rewarded the minute you lay eyes on it. It is located inside a small bay and is definitely one of the best on the island. The waters are crystal clear; it has pebbles and a beach bar that provides sunbeds and umbrellas. “Tis grias to pidima” (the old lady’s leap), an unorganized beach, is famous for its odd rock that stands in the middle of the seashore even
though this is not the only reason that bathers choose it despite the difficult access on foot. Its crystal clear waters as well as its remoteness are largely adding to its reputation. Ateni beach 9 km away from Batsi resort is divided into two Megalo (big) Ateni and Mikro (small) Ateni. Sandy with shallow clean waters, the one is much bigger and organized with beach bar, sunbeds, umbrellas and water sports while the second one is for those who prefer a quite less organized beach. North of Gavrio you will find the remote Vlichada beach and though you need to take a dirt road as well as in many other cases, but it is worth it. Is a long, sandy and unorganized beach with crystal clear waters ideal for snorkeling. Paraporti is a beach directly connected with the Chora (Andros town) if you walk down a hundred steps from LiFO Greek Islands
Sunrise at the lighthouse Tourlitis
the square of Kairi. It is nice and sandy while a creek that ends in the sea it adds to its beautiful scenery. There is a beach bar at the one edge of the beach with a view to Chora. The waters are clean and blue.
Sights and experiences Andros above all is the island of captains, ship owners and sailors. The Chora (main town) is full of neoclassical mansions and public buildings proving its prosperity and its long historical heritage. At the oldest part of the Chora there is a square with a monument dedicated to the Uknown Sailor while the Tourlitis Lighthouse is built on a rock in the middle of the sea in the Cyclades. If you decide to explore the island you will find Venetian castles, old donkey tracks connecting
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the villages, rushing rivers, ancient springs and abandoned watermills. Stenies a village not far from Chora hidden among tall trees is also graced with grand mansions as well as a 17th century tower, an old stone bridge and a picturesque old fabrica with a huge waterwheel. One of the remotest and southmost areas of Andros is Korthi, a valley between Gerakona and Rachi fully sprouted with olive, lemon and fig trees. Hikers and adventurers are in for a great experience as they will get to climb up to the ruins of a Venetian castle and from there will get to go down the Dipotamata Gorge or locating medieval ruins. “Xerolithies”, the stone walls that once limited farms and houses, today stand as the most characteristic image of the Cycladic landscape. You should also visit the medieval
castle Epano Kastro or Faneromeni’s Kastro with its extremely thick walls from which you will have an astonishing view of the sea and in a clear day some adjacent islands. In Korthi area seek for the Byzantine churches of Agios Nikolaos and Agios Ioannis.
Culture and Events The Archaeological Museum of Andros (+30 22820 23664) located in Kari Square in Chora hosts a collection of findings from the Geometric settlement of Zagora (10th – 8th centuries BCE) as well as sculptures and inscriptions that cover from the Archaic until the Roman period; there are also exhibits from the Byzantine era. The Goulandris Museum of Modern Art (+30 22820 22444) is a museum of contemporary art which houses the permanent exhibition of
works by Michael Tombros, a significant sculptor from Andros, as well as works by some of the most significant representatives of contemporary Greek sculpture. In addition the Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation collection is constituted by a significant number of works by distinguished Greek artists as well as important works of international artists like Nicholson, Fautrier, Lichtenstein, Balthus, Botero, Kiefer, Hundertwasser, Warhol, Rodin, Giacometti, Cesar, Mitoraj, Richier, Hepworth, etc. Every summer it also hosts important exhibitions. Summer of 2018 is hosting an exhibition of renowned Greek artist Dimitris Mytaras. The Maritime Museum of Andros (+30 22820 22264) is housed in an elegant Neoclassical mansion in Chora, in the square of the Unknown Soldier from which one has an excellent view to the Aegean Sea. It hosts a rich collection of nautical items from 1750 until today such as shipping documents, models of old and new vessels, nautical dairies, costumes and much more reflecting the strong connection of the Andriots to the sea. The Cyclades Olive Museum in Andros (www.musioelias. gr) twice awarded among the top 10 Greek museums, is a private museum located in the mountainous village of Ano Pitrofos housed in a traditional old oil mill. It is a fine example of animalpowered olive oil producing mill that once was very frequently met in the counLiFO Greek Islands
Christos Efstathiou Gallery
tryside of Andros Island, operating until the 1960s. The 4th International Festival of Andros will take place between July 26 and August 22, 2018 in the open-theater of Chora and will present theatrical performances, dance shows and music concerts by renown theatrical and dance groups and important Greek singers.
Moving around Bus transportation service is limited on Andros and the island is too big to reach many places. There is a regular bus service between the port of Gavrio and Chora, passing through Batsi resort and is mostly timed to meet the ferries as they arrive. You can rent cars, bikes and bicycles in Gavrio, Batsi and Chora. Taxis are also available but operate mainly from and to the ferry port. Some of the beaches can be reached by boat taxi. There is no airport on Andros.
Getting There
Andros is the northernmost island of the Cyclades and it’s a convenient ferry ride from the Port of Rafina. The main town is the Chora of Andros while the port of the island is Gavrio. The most popular resorts during summer are Batsi near Chora and Ormos in the southern part of the island. There are normally three to four ferries sailing daily from Rafina to Mykonos with a stopover in Andros. Sailing to Andros takes two to four hours depending on the ferry. Summer 2018
LiFOice Chodros An
CHRISTOS EFSTATHIOU GALLERY ANDROS Athens: Kleanthous 49, Ilioupoli, 163 41 Andros: Alk. Enpirikou, Andros Town, 845 00 Tel: +30 690 9208081 FB: christos. efstathiou.35
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The artist Christos Efstathiou lives and creates between Athens and Andros. In his showroom he presents unique creations inspired by his personal and social relations always in connection with the natural environment. He has a unique way of expressing his thoughts through his work, while at the same time the harmony of design and material color are distinguished in an exemplary way. In addition to the paintings, sculptures and artistic ants
and insects, his imagination led him to create the animated profiles. The artwork depicts two human wire profiles standing one next to the other on a base made of stone; a brilliant declaration of companionship, made of metal. The motion of the pace is activated with a light swing leading to the movement of the two forms, which start to sway in absolute balance and stability, for several minutes. When the sculpture is placed outdoors, the figures start to move with the air and when they collide they create a melodic sound.
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08—Hydra 154–Hydra
LiFO Greek Islands
The town of Hydra
The Island of Hydra is, without a question, the
Queen of the Saronic Islands. Situated halfway between the islands of Poros and Spetses, the only thing that’s diminutive about it is its size. In many ways life remains unchanged here. No cars are allowed on this pristine island (a mule and it's driver will gladly carry your luggage). Beautiful 18th-19th century mansions, draped in bougainvilleas, outshine one another. Its draw for the international jet set and for everyone else is the combination of simplicity and beauty.
Summer 2018
Hydra–155
People buy fresh fish from the fishing boats surrounded by cats in the harbor
H
ere you can walk barefoot through the clean paved alleyways. In the steep-sloped town, you can gaze out at the big Greek blue for hours in peace. Its natural beauty and the handsomeness of its main town made it into a Mediterranean jewel that did not escape the attention of authors, poets, songwriters, and filmmakers since the War. It is here that Henry Miller was inspired to write The Colossus of Maroussi (1941) and Leonard Cohen some of his greatest songs. Sophia Loren turned heads in Hydra town, in the filming of Boy on a Dolphin (1957) and Melina Merkouri caused a stir in the making of Phaedra (1962). If back in the '60s Hydra was Greece’s answer to the French Riviera, today its elegant minimalism is the answer to global commodification and hyperbole.
Beaches Located not far from the port of Hydra, towards the rocky slope, Spilia is not really a
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beach but rather a deck from which one can dive into crystal clear blue waters. Above it there is Spilia café and right next to it and below the cannons of the old wall, Hydroneta beach bar where once located legendary Lagoudera club. Avlaki beach is a tiny beach down the steep slope from the pedestrian path in 10’ walk from Hydra town. It is tiny and instead of sand there is a concrete deck and some pebble stones. Despite all these the crystal clear blue waters reward you. It can be very relaxing experience. The beach at Mandraki lies is a 30’ walk from the port of Hydra along a wide coast pathway that’s lined with small stone houses and villas. It is partially sandy, rare for the island, with sunbeds and some watersports. There is a tavern while the old Miramare Hotel offers all the amenities you need. You can also take a boat taxi. Agios Nikolaos beach is a half an hour ride by boat but it rewards you with its crystal clear waters. It has
pebbles but no natural shade. The beach bar provides sunbeds and umbrellas. Bisti beach is considered by some as the best on Hydra. It takes a 25’ ride on boat; it is a small picturesque bay with white pebbles into transparent emerald waters and a pine trees forest at the back. There is a beach bar, sunbeds and umbrellas. Smaller bays nearby are ideal for snorkeling. Vlichos beach is a 20’ walk from the port of Hydra. Well organized with sunbeds and umbrellas but very rocky. Mikro Kamini is a small bay with a very narrow rocky beach. There is a tavern, sunbeds and umbrellas. It can be reached on foot so it can get very crowded with families and children playing by the sea.
Sights and Experiences Hydra is a rocky island that hides many beautiful sides one is expected to discover by hiking and walking through the pathways. The main town though,
crowned with old mansions of wealthy merchants and shipbuilders of 19th century is an amazing place to stroll around and linkit with the monuments and houses of main figures of the history of modern Greece. The island played a dominate role in the Greek War of Independence against the Ottomans while numerous Greek presidents, prime ministers and naval generals were born here. Visit the Historic Archives and Museum, the Monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, the Merchant Marine Academy, the Square of the Five Hydriot Prime Ministers, the historic Rafalias Pharmacy located in the main square or the mansion of eminent political figure Lazaros Koundouriotis (1769 – 1852) who offered his ships, crew and fortune to the Greek revolution in 1821. At the same time Hydra has an outstanding market with unique shops that sell handmade and high class products: clothes, jewelry, artifacts, house and garden LiFO Greek Islands
Swimmers at Hydroneta
objects. Hydra to many is directly connected with sailing. The islands hides countless coves and bays whether you choose to just admire the views from the sundeck of a private yacht or ashore. Organized by the Greek Yachting Association, every year a regatta takes place that closes the summer season. Yacht Race 2018 will be held in October. There is also Swimrun Hydra, a multiple-stage competition which involves participants running and swimming over a cross-country race course as well as many transitions between the swim and run stages of the race. It will be held November 17 -19, 2018. If you are into hiking there is something that may thrill you. A seven hour hike from the town to the lighthouse. No trails, no signposts, not even a map to help you. The only sign that is left to orient you is the sea. There are some nice options though as a hike to Profitis
158–Hydra
Ilias Monastery, Zourva Monastery which you approach either by hiking or by a boat taxi that will take you to a spot that leads up to the cliff. After this you might want to follow a goat path that will take you to the lighthouse. Another way to reach it though is through the Byzantine town of Episkopi, a remote farmers’ community which is probably the furthest edge of the island. A private initiative has launched recently on Hydra of horse riding which has proven popular with both tourists and locals. There are 10 different treks to choose according to the rider’s age, ability and fitness. The horses are sweet natured and sturdy. Proper English style riding saddles with safety helmets provided.
Culture and Events Hydra has always been an island that attracted artists who lived part of their life on the island inspired and
working. Beside the fact that there is an annex of the Athens School of Art housed in a 19th century mansion located in the port of Hydra, a number of art events of international reputation take place. Often world acclaimed artists are contributing with exhibitions at the Deste Projectspace Slaughterhouse at the old slaughter house of Hydra. The summer of 2018 presents Laughterhouse, a documentary film about goats whose cries sound like those of human beings. The contradiction between the comedy of the film and the history of the space is the motivation behind this artwork.The exhibition will be on view till September 30, 2018. Artist Dimitrios Antonitsis is the founder and curator of Hydra School Projects, an international platform for the visual arts and the HSP Residency Program (non-profit). Held annually since 2000 the HSP named
because these contemporary art exhibitions are shown at the old Hydra High School on Lignou Street where it showcase the work of upand-coming, young Greek as well as international artists alongside those already well established.This summer’s exhibition titled “Loss” will last till September 30, 2018. The Historic Archives and Museum of Hydra (www. hydraislandgreece.com +30 22980 52355, 54142) located in the front of the port, includes 20,000 documents, original manuscripts, codices books, and other historic materials. They are displayed artifacts from national and Hydriot history and culture such as firearm, weapons, artifacts from the Greek war of independence, the Balkan wars, the world wars I and II, armors, traditional dress ad folk costumes, figureheads of ships as well as paintings by well known artists. The Ecclesiastical Museum of Hydra (+30 22980 54071) is located above the port in the 17th century impressive church of Assumption, which is also the Cathedral of Hydra. It showcases rare Byzantine icons, clerk relics and holy gospels. Greek painter and member of Athens Academy Panagiotis Tetsis (1925 – 2016) donated his grandparents’ home on Hydra Island which he used as his studio to the Historical and Ethnological Society of Greece, in order for it to become after his passing a museum housing his work. The house is a typical hydriot home of the 19th- early 20th century while the ground floor was used as a traditional candle manufactory and grocery shop-tavern. The Tetsis Home & Workshop (+30 LiFO Greek Islands
Nereids
22980 52421) is open daily from March till October. Hydrama Theatre hosts contemporary drama and dance activities throughout July and August at the amphitheatre in Vlychos, free of charge. You have to take a boat or walk along the coast road, then sit under the stars and watch a live performance. Some of the performances are in Greek but in the main students come from around the world so the plays are adapted, abriged and performed in English. The 8th Saronic Chamber Music Festival on August 4 will present a concert dedicated to the memory of Therese Kontos playing Beethoven and Faure performed by Jannis Agraniotis, Julian Arp, Noam Greenberg, Sini Simonen, Francis Kefford and Marti Leo Schmidt.
More to know Hydra is rocky with many hills, the highest being Eros at about 500m. In ancient times the island was well covered by pine-forest and had plenty of water. Outsize its role in the conduct of Greece’s War of Independence (1821-30) during which its wealthy ship owners turned their commercial vessels into fighting ships and captained them into battle, turning Hydra into a cradle of Greece, the first president of the Greek Democracy, five prime ministers and numerous cabinet ministers of modern Greece were born on this tiny island. Hydra acquired international reputation through the 1957 20th Century Fox movie Boy on a Dolphin directed by Jean Negulesco based on a novel by Davide Divine
starring Sophia Loren for whom it was her English language debut. It was the first Hollywood movie shot in Greece. Hydra is a popular wedding destination. Whether it’s a Greek Orthodox Church wedding or a civil Registry Wedding, throughout the high season Hydra hosts more or less 5 weddings per week. The oversized Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary was designated as a monastery, which means that weddings cannot be conducted in it. There is no airport on the island with the only exception helicopters for emergency reasons. All helicopter arrivals and departures are from the uninhabited rocky islet called Kivotos off the bay of Molos on the north – western coast of Hydra.
Moving around Since vehicles of any kind are banned, you will see only donkeys and mules for transportation reasons and the only way to discover the island is either on foot or by the sea. There are boats that will take you to the beaches as well as water taxis. You can also rent your own boat or yacht.
Getting there
The trip to Hydra by ferry takes 3,5 hours with stopovers at Aigina, Methana, Poros, Spetses and some times Porto Heli. Three hydrofoil companies also serve Hydra during summer with a ticket that costs twice the ticket of the ferry. Hydrofoils also connect Hydra with Methana and Hermioni at the Peloponnese.
LiFOice Chodra Hy
Kashish Athens Hydra NEREIDS Provincial Road Mandraki-Molloy, Hydra, T. +30 2298 052875 fb: nereids guest house
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If you would like to experience the unique and unforgettable experience of staying in a traditional mansion of Hydra, then you should definitely visit Nereids guesthouse. Following the architectural tradition of the island it is built with stone, an element that dominates both its exterior and interior spaces, blending this way perfectly with the beautiful and imposing Hydra landscape. Its fully equipped and elegantly decorated rooms will give you a touch of luxury on your holiday while the unlimited view of the Argosaronic bay and the city of Hydra with its verandas and courtyard will enchant you. KASHISH ATHENS HYDRA Silanionos 4, Ano Petralona, Athens, T.
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+30 211 4000723 Tombazi 8, Hydra T. +30 2298 400774 FB: kashishathens Instagram: @kashish_ athens E-shop: www. kashish.gr If you are looking for the ideal resort wear, then Kashish is the ultimate choice for you. A wide selection of dresses and duvets made of light, airy fabrics, Indian cotton of supreme quality and hand woven textiles awaits for you in both the Hydra shop and the showroom of Athens. The designer Kelly Fotopoulou, draws her inspiration from both India, and her place of origin, Hydra. With the use of the Indian Hand Block Print technique the designs are created exclusively for the brand, making each pattern one of a kind. The result is unique rows of clothes and cover ups that will make you stand out in all your summertime outings. Don’t forget to complete your outfit with a piece of exceptional jewelry and many other accessories.
09—Aegina 160–Aegina
LiFO Greek Islands
The Temple of Afaia
Aegina is the closest island to Athens – a geographic
fact that has made it a favorite weekend destination for Athenians and a preferred site for vacation homes. The largest among the islands of the Saronic Gulf, Aegina has a surprising range of natural environments. The main town is only busy on weekends. Its harbor district features elegant Gilded Age mansions and townhouses. You can also go sightseeing by taking a horse carriage ride along the coast.
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Aegina–161
Open-store fruit seller on the port of Aegina
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he town’s interior, with its alleyways, the low-rise houses with fragrant gardens, and the peaceful atmosphere brings the old Athens in mind. In thirteen kilometers from the town lays Aegina’s “Parthenon”: The pre-Classical Doric-style Temple of Aphaea while the remarkable monastery of Agios Nektarios, and the picturesque ruined village at Paleochora, complete the cultural package.
Beaches Aegina has a well-developed tourist infrastructure so most beaches are organized with umbrellas, sunbeds, restaurants and bars. Agia Marina in the north coast is the most popular beach of all. Long and sandy, ideal for children it has a wellorganized watersports center. The beach though, tends to get very crowded due to the line of hotels the large number of cafés, bars and
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restaurants behind it, so it is not the best option for those who want to spend a calm day on the beach. Marathonas is a traditional fishing village in four kilometres south of Aegina town and half-way there is the popular resort at Perdika. The place offers some nice views of the coast from the hillside that dominates it while the two small beaches are lined with taverns. Its sandy beach with clean shallow waters is ideal for children. The coast route south from Aegina Town is dotted with tavernas at every sandy cove while there are pistachio groves and eucalyptus trees along the way - notably at Aeginitissa and Profitis Ilias, before one reaches the resort of Faros. Going towards Faros you will encounter Sapra beach; a well-organized beach with plenty sunbeds, a volleyball court and a small cantina. Picturesque village of Perdika is loaded with hotels
and fish taverns. There is also a marina with yachts as well as fishing boats. It is from its harbor that small boats leave for the islet of Moni or Aghistri island, both offshore Aegina. Moni is a small wild and rocky paradise with deer and peacocks and crystal clear waters that attract many private boats and yachts especially during weekends. There are sunbeds and a small cantina. Klima or Klidi beach is beautiful and clean and it attracts DJs from Athens for all-day parties. The tiny port of Portes lies on the east coast of Aegina. Nearby there is a long beach covered with pebbles and even bigger stones. East from Souvala, the coastal road continues and reaches, after 4 kilometers, to Vagia. A small picturesque fishing hamlet, at the most southern place of the island, at the bottom of Mountain Prophet Elias and between the Afaia temple and the
sandy beach, full of evergreen pine trees. Souvala is a nice beach near a once busy harbor. There is a number of taverns at the seaside and on a clear night one can see the lights of Piraeus. Souvala is also known for a health spa for the healing of rheumatism and skin disorders.
Sights and Experiences Aegina is the first capital of modern Greece. During ancient times Aegina, being a great sea power, was a rival of Athens. Ancient Aeginets might have been the ones to introduce coinage to the Western world. Staters depicting a sea-turtle were struck up to the end of the 5th century BC while following the end of the Peloponnesian War in 404 BC, it was replaced by the land tortoise. Through its long history there are a number of landmarks that survived such as the Temple of Aphaia, the LiFO Greek Islands
Girl snorkeling in the turquoise waters of Moni Island, next to Aegina
Monastery of Agios Nectarios, the first museum of modern free Greece and the Temple of Zeus Hellanios. Visit the ruins of Paleochora, once the capital of the island under the Venetians and the Ottomans when the coast was threatened by pirates. It is set in the side of a steep hill, crowned with the ruins of the old castle which flourished during the 18th century. Though the town was abandoned in 1826 and most of the houses gradually collapsed a cathedral and some chapels have been restored, many of them containing excellent frescoes and impressive iconostasia. On the road to Marathonas beach you might want to have a stop-over at the former monastery of the Virgin Chryssoleontissa that dates back to 1600 CE. It is now a convent and access is restricted. It has a splendid carved iconostasi. On onehour walk south from Agios Nektarios, it stands high on a hill and is accessible only on foot. Mount Oros, Aegina’s highest mountain is an extinct
164–Aegina
volcano. There is a tiny chapel on the top while in its lower slopes you will find the ancient church of Taxiarchis. The view of the surrounding countryside and villages is simply stunning. A road of stone steps leads to the ancient site where according to the myth Aeacus originally established the worship of Zeus. Another unique site is Camera Obcura House on a hill near Perdika. This magnificent mechanism offers a 360o 12 part panoramic images of the island, upside down and reversed on a semitransparent screen. Visit the Hellenic Wildlife Hospital (www.ekpaz.gr). It is a sanctuary for wildlife which hospitalizes animals and birds. Entry is free and guided tours are also provided. There is a small souvenir shop to promote the excellent work going on there. At the north of Aegina town there is the hill where the Archaeological Museum of Kolona is located. A single column (kolona in Greek) is the last remnant of a Doric
Temple of Apollo built in 520 BCE. Nearby you will find the mosaic floor of the first synagogue in Greece found in the Karantina area which was settled by Jews. The uninhabited islet of Moni was once owned by the Monastery of Chrysoleontissa -hence the name- but is now under the property of the Touring Club of Greece. It is inhabited of deer, rabbits, wild goats, and peacocks. Take the path to the summit where you will find a German bunker left over from W.W. II. The Moni islet has a small sand and stone beach ideal for snorkeling. There is another way to explore the island. Among its many activities Aegina Workshop (Ergastiri tis Aeginas, +30 6945 918577) provides lessons in horse riding. Experienced riders can select one out of twelve horses to ride within the organizations outdoor grounds or take a trail ride through the northern mountain paths. The workshops’ stables are located next to the Alones valley situated above Agia Marina. Perdika Horseriding
(+30 22970 71757) in the town of Perdika also offers guided tours for riders of all ages and experience levels.
Culture and Events The temple of Aphaia stands on a hill pine wooded around 4km from the bay at Agia Marina. It is a 5th century BCE Doric temple and is well preserved with some 24 limestone columns still standing. It was dedicated to Aphaia, a hunting nymph daughter of Zeus. The centerpiece of this significant sanctuary of a local goddess, the Temple was adorned by extraordinary pedimental sculptures depicting the Trojan War, now displayed at the Munich Glyptotek. Some of the less important finds can be found in the museum in Aegina. There is regular bus transportation to the temple from Aegina town and Agia Marina. The Archeological Museum in Kolona was established in 1828 by the first Governor of Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, as The National Archeological Museum. It LiFO Greek Islands
Babis Tavern
was originally housed in the Orphanage (Filakes) but it has been moved a few times since then. In the entrance area you will be greeted by a marble Sphinx of the early classical period (460 BC) which was dedicated to the Temple of Apollo. It is a marvelous sculpture with the head of a woman and a body that is half eagle and half lion, excavated in the Kolona site in 1903. Allotted in three champers one can see a variety of ancient exhibits such as vessels, pottery, ceramics, alabasters, statuettes, inscriptions, coins, weapons and copper vessels. The Christos Kapralos Museum (+30 22970 22001) is located on the northwest coast of Aegina. The artist left a collection of approximately 7,500 works to the Greek people on establishing his foundation. The visitor to the Kapralos Museum of Aegina may view works spanning the years 196393. His copper statue The Mother, placed on a square opposite the museum by the sea, symbolizes the Greek mother and her devotion to her family. The remarkable church of Agios Nektarios at south of Souvala is a place of pilgrimage for the sick and disabled. Agios Nectarios who had healing powers, was the first saint to be canonized by the Orthodox Church in modern times. He is buried at the spot and is the patron saint of those with cancer, heart trouble, arthritis, epilepsy as well as of the unemployed. The church is considered the largest in Greece and celebrates twice a year, on November 9 and September 3. The Tsak Bam Festival is a contemporary art platform that takes place in Aegina. It has experimental character and it is organized by young artists. It will be running 6 – 8 of July. Summer 2018
The annual Aegina International Music Festival hosts some of the most renown artists of classical and jazz music, choirs and bands. It has been founded by the Association of Friends of Aegina International Music Festival and this summer will be held from August 10 to 27, 2018.
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More to know Aegina is the island of the pistachio nuts, in Greek: “Fistikia”. The harvest of the pistachios is celebrated every year in September with The Aegina Fistiki Festival- Pistachio Festival. It is mainly held in Aegina town though some events are held in the villages too. The festival promotes local products and particularly the pistachio nuts of Aegina. A large open market with local goods is set along the port promenade of Aegina town while cooking courses, theatre performances, musical concerts, art exhibitions and ceramic workshops are also included.
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Moving Around The road network is generally good while an island bus transportation service connects the main island with the villages and beaches. There are plenty of taxis and since the island is not big, the cost is usually reasonable. It is even more pleasant to explore the island by renting a car, a scooter, or a bicycle.
How to get there Aegina is not accessible by air. It lies in the middle of the Saronic Gulf near the main Athens port of Piraeus and it only takes 75 minutes by ferries that depart for Aegina regularly during the summer, less often in the winter. Flying Dolphins (hydrofoils) take around 40 minutes.
BABIS TAVERN Akti Toti Hatzi 7, Aegina, T. +30 22970 23594, 6973247044
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Fresh fish and seafood gourmet delights in Aegina. For those who visit Aigina often, Babis Tavern does not need much introduction. For years now it is preferred by those who want fresh fish and divined stuffed tomatoes and peppers. With the children of the family leading the wellknown tavern that opened in 1984, Babis Tavern is numbered among the most famous taverns on the island. With decor inspired by the
kitchen utensils and the outdoor tables that have a wonderful view along the beach, this place is definitely worth your attention if you find yourself in Aegina. Open from 10am for a coffee, the menu consists mainly of seafood, with some special dishes that you will not find elsewhere on the island. Fresh fish, shrimps, seafood linguines and saffron shrimp barley are among the best seller options at BabisTavern. Don’t forget to try the new entries in the catalog, such as the bowl of papardells, olives and olives, salmon cake or courgettes stuffed with shrimps.
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Lalaria beach
When compared to its south, the Aegean Sea’s north appears almost bereft of islands. The Northern Sporades Islands – off the beautiful Pelion Peninsula – make up for the scarcity, and among them, the Island of Skiathos is a well-priced choice destination. With an international airport and frequent ferry connections to Greece’s second largest city, Thessaloniki, Skiathos is a gateway to other beauty spots on the Sporades, including the islands of Skopelos and Alonissos. Summer 2018
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Skiathos harbor at sunset
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ts rich history saw the Persian fleet at its shores during antiquity, the establishment of a Byzantine and then a Venetian Castletown, a period of Ottoman mastery, followed by an age of piracy that lasted until the Greek Revolution. Today, its fame is built on no fewer than sixty beaches, some of which are of cinematic beauty (scenes of Mamma Mia were filmed there). Unlike the Cycladic Islands to the south, Skiathos and the rest of the Northern Sporades are lush with vegetation, with forests of Aleppo Pine predominating. The pretty capital city of red tile roofs, traditional shops, and a vibrant waterfront is a must-see.
Beaches The most popular beaches are located on the south part of the island while the quitter ones on the north.
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The first beach you meet, not far from Skiathos town, is Megali Ammos beach. It can be reached very easily by taxi or by bus. It is usually packed with people with two or three rows of sunbeds covering the narrow sandy stretch while numerous taverns and small hotels are lined behind it. Despite its shallow waters, ideal for children, there is a wide selection of watersports. If you want to escape the crowds walk around the rocks and head east. Vassilias beach extends from Megali Ammos and it is a sandy beach that according to history it was the favorite of Byzantine emperors. Troulos is the best organized beach outside the town. Embraced by olive groves it has a long, deep and very sandy beach which slopes gently into the sea. There is a sports centre and boat rental, a bar, a tavern and a hotel
restaurant. The small coves nearby are difficult to reach on foot so visitors usually take a boat there. Vromolimnos beach is equally well organized and that is one of the reasons families prefer it. Sandy with clean waters it has a beach bar, sunbeds and umbrellas, as well as water sports activity as well as a lifesaver. Easy to reach by car or bus. The long and sandy Platanias beach (also called Agia Paraskevi) has a couple of taverns that open in the summer and a pool bar at the nearby Skiathos Princess Hotel. The beach lies in the same bay as the beach of Vromolimnos. Megalos Aselinos is a sandy beach of natural beauty since it is comparatively remote, with few sunbeds, a nice tavern and deep waters ideal for snorkeling and scuba diving. You can reach it by car though organized
day cruises stop over and it can get crowded for a short period of time. Mikros Aselinos is another remote and rather small beach accessible by car up to a point; after that you have to park and take a path that leads to it. You will be rewarded with crystal clear waters in this semi-organized beach with a tavern. Kechria is another remote beach in the north accessible by car. The waters are clean and you can do snorkeling near the rocks. The tavern owner has set some sunbeds on the grass under the olive trees. At the back of the tavern there is a creek while no far away there is the Kehria Monastery with a cold water spring. Lalaria is one of the finest beaches in Greece with crystal clear waters and white pebbles. The access is only by boat. You need to bring your own umbrella. LiFO Greek Islands
over some headland rocks in a small cove of flat sand almost populated by nudists who moved there after the northern beach was invaded by party-animals. Both beaches have plenty of natural shade from the pine trees that grow right down to the beach. There are sunbeds, umbrellas and watersports.
Sights and Experiences
Mandraki is one of the quitter beaches in the north of the island. Its wild landscape is unique while the views of the blue sea and the Pelion peninsula are just astonishing. Visit the beach of Kastro, in the northernmost area of the island, just below the old castle city of Skiathos. It can be reached by any of the boats that run daily. There is also a paved path that reaches the castle city and an exceptionally beautiful, natural beach which takes its name from the region. You can combine swimming in the crystal clear waters and a visit to the old town of the castle where the view is breathtaking. The award-winning golden sand beach of Koukounaries is backed by pine trees and a large lagoon. Its shallow water attracts big crowds, especially families, but the area’s protected status for birds and wildlife has helped Summer 2018
to keep it “natural”. It has several watersport centers, beach taverns, many kiosks that sell refreshments and food. It can be easily reached by bus. Banana beach is a sandy beach found on the far west coast of Skiathos, just one kilometre north-west of Koukounaries. Its original name is Krassas but that name is scarcely used by tourists therefore it is universally famous as Banana - the party beach of Skiathos. The main Banana is a double beach split by a low rock that lies to the north of another beach called Mikri (Little) Banana, or Spartacus. Banana can be reached by boat or by pathways that start at the bus stop at Koukounaries. The main Banana beach is a long double crescent of fine sand packed with sunbeds and with a couple of beach bars that play loud music. Mikri Banana is just
Skiathos is the absolute summer resort filled with taverns, bars and nightclubs. Countless charter planes land at its international airport and ferries compete with numerous arrivals from the mainland. Skiathos town has two quays split by a rock called the Bourtzi. Dozens of cafes run the length of the two harbors from the old port to the west and the new one to the east. The old port is traffic-free, offering a pleasant evening stroll for visitors and locals. The main shopping area leads from the Bourtzi up the hill while more shops, cafés and taverns are jammed along the narrow street. There is not much that has survived of Skiathos’s past. Places that are worth visiting include the Kastro - a fortified former capital built in the 14th century on a rock as a refuge from pirates, notably the Barbarossa brothers. According to historical documents Kastro used to house more than 20 churches. Today only two churches have survived along with a part of the wall, a half-ruined mosque and a cannon. It takes no less than a three-hour walk to get there but you can also take one of the excursion boats that make the trip daily from Skiathos town. There are three uninhabited islets nearby; Tsougria, Tsougriaki and Arkos that have become quite popular in the recent years. Organized day
trips by boats run daily for visitors who want to enjoy fine beaches. Tsougria lies directly south of Skiathos town, while towards the west there is the smaller rocky islet of Tsougriaki which doesn’t have a beach but you can swim in one of its many coves. Northeast, and closer to the coast is the islet of Arkos. There are some old churches that are worth visiting such as Christos, in the Kastro, and the monasteries of Agios Ioannis of Parthenis, Agios Charalambos, Evangelistria (Annunciation) and Panagia Kounistria (Holy Virgin). Evangelistria founded in 1794 lies in the most beautiful countryside. It is of great historic significance since it was there where fighters against the Ottoman Turks took their oath under the first independent Greek flag. The monastery’s most important treasure is a magnificent carved wooden iconostasi. Panagia Kounistria is the patron of Skiathos and has several frescoes to display including one of Agios Christofos with a face of a dog.
Culture and Events Skiathos is the birthplace of iconic Greek novelist Alexandros Papadiamantis (1851 – 1911). The island and the local society played a decisive role in his work. As a young man and after completing his high school studies, he enrolled at the School of Philosophy of the University of Athens but he never graduated due to economic difficulties. He returned to his native island and supported himself by writing anything; from journalism and short stories to several serialized novels throughout his adult life. From a certain point onwards he became very popular, and newspa-
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pers and magazines vied for his writings. He wrote some 170 short stories and several novellas. He never married, and was known to be a recluse, whose only true cares were observing and writing about the life of the poor, and chanting at church: he was referred to as “kosmokalogeros” (a monk in the world”). He died of pneumonia. About 100 meters along the main Papadiamanti Street in Skiathos town in a small alleyway there is his house built by his grandfather in 1850-1860. Now a museum it is pretty much kept the same. It was there where he wrote his emblematic novel The Female Assassin (Fonissa) which was, like much of his work, influenced by Skiathos and the people who lived here. He concentrated on the tight-knit peasant society and the superstitions that ruled their lives, steeped in witchcraft and myth. A good number of his work has been translated in different
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languages. You can find all the related publications in the museum. There is a Musical Instruments of the World Museum where there are displayed instruments from all the world. There are about 500 exhibits of Anna Delighianni’s collection with instruments from Europe, far East and Africa. The museum is located inside the Evangelistria Monastery. There is also the Skiathos Maritime and Cultural Tradition Museum (+30 6945 107626, 6938 246755) that is located in the Bourtzi Cultural Center. It covers a two centuries naval history through 600 exhibits that are related to Skiathos and its long tradition with the shipbuilding and sailing craftsmanship.
Moving around There is a fully organized public bus transportation that covers almost all of the island. There is also a Taxi
Union that protects the visitor tourists with fixed prices to all beaches and villages as well as to and from the airport 24 hours a day. Renting a car or a scooter is also an option.
More to know There is an organized network with at least 25 walks and a length of over 197 km. The Skiathos trails and paths are signposted with routes lasting from 1 to 6 hours. In such a lash environment you will be able to discover the historical and religious monuments of the island and the beautiful unspoiled nature. There are numerous idyllic spots offering breathtaking panoramic views and spots ideal for relaxation. The most impressive route on Skiathos is AselinosMonastery Kounistra - Mikros Aselinos beach-beach Kechria Alygaries. Sailing in the wider region of Sporades islands will be proved a lifetime experience for those who try it. Mag-
nificent Pelion, Skiathos, Skopelos, Skyros, North Evia, Chalkidiki, the Marine Park of Alonissos and Northern Sporades with deserted islands and other smaller enchanting islands with more 150 beautiful beaches only in Sporades are there for you to sail for. The north winds (in Greek Meltemia) in the Northern Sporades are much more mild compared to the Cyclades. You can watch the weather reports to drive your craft in the various shores of the islands where you will enjoy sheltered bays and beaches.
Getting there
There is ferry boat service as well as Catamaran High Speed connecting Skiathos with Volos, Thessaloniki, Mantudi (Evia), Skopelos, Alonissos and Aghios Konstandinos. During summer the Alexandros Papadiamantis International Airport is connected daily with Athens and other European airports. LiFO Greek Islands
JAGUAR Skiathos (chora) T. +30 6987122470 fb: jaguar
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Instagram: @jaguar_skiathos Jaguar, a lovely cocktail bar, right on the port of Skiathos, welcomes you with an extended list of cocktails served with a smile. Get comfortable on one of its stools and let the bartender treat you with some Mediterranean bartendering by recommending new flavors and mixes based on local herbs. Don’t hesitate to ask anything you want about Greek drinks and ingredients and let yourself experience some of the most beautiful and relaxed summer nights of your life.
Jaguar
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Porto Katsiki Beach
11—Lefkada Its more illustrious Ionian sister, Corfu, may overshadow the Island of Lefkada, which however lacks in nothing when it comes to historical interest and natural beauty. Before the poetess Sappho made the island famous by throwing herself off the cliff of Cape Lefkata for love’s sake, Homer may have modeled his descriptions of nearby Ithaki on Lefkada’s beauty. 172–Lefkada
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he island passed from Byzantine to Ottoman, to Venetian, French, Russian, and English overlords, to ultimately be incorporated in Greece in the 1870s. Each left a mark on its culture and landscapes making the island an important culture tourism destination. The capital city, by the same name as the island, is a maze of paved streets and alleyways and is ideal for strolling or biking. It’s equally welcoming to yachters since its first class marina is for many a convenient jump-off point for exploring the rest of the Ionian Islands. A short distance away is Skorpios, shipping tycoon Onassis’ legendary private island, and Meganisi, a tiny heavenly island of dreams. Much of the island is unspoiled and lush. Traditional villages and picturesque hiking paths abound in an island that is conveniently connected to mainland directly by a bridge. Among its many gorgeous beaches, two have been ranked among the “Top 10” beaches in Europe.
Beaches One of the most beautiful beaches you will ever experience is remote Milos beach. If you don’t want to take a boat taxi from Agios Nikitas (costs only 3 euros) and chose to take the path there, it will take you 20’ but the landscape will reward you. Completely unorganized, no sunbeds no umbrellas no bar, but with crystal clear waters, it’s of high importance to bring your own supplies. For many Egremnoi is the most beautiful beach in the Ionian Sea so it’s no wonder why it was ranked among the top 10 European beaches. The Summer 2018
only access is by boat from Nidri including day cruises as well as some smaller boats. Ideal for those who want a silent place with no umbrellas and sunbeds though when tourist groups arrive it can get crowded. With fine pebbles, crystal clear azure waters, you have to keep in mind to stay far from the cliffs because there is always a risk of landslides. Porto Katsiki is also among the top 10 European beaches and one of the most popular beaches on the island so it can get really crowded. It has crystal clear waters with fine pebbles and a spectacular scenery overall. There are 4 bar-restaurants that serve drinks and food but if you don’t bring your own umbrella you might find the rent a pricy choice. Ammousa beach is a modest choice in the south not far from Syvota. Protected from winds, it is well organized with sunbeds and umbrellas and two taverns with local food. The waters are clear with pebbles. Right after Agios Nikitas, there is Kathisma beach, one of the best organized beaches at Lefkada. Breathtaking views where the azure blue waters are crystal clear, but it can get windy with waves. It is covered with pebbles and like most beaches on the island, there are many beach bars so it can get really crowded during the day. Agiofili beach in the south near Vasiliki is another beautiful landscape which is well organized but it can get very touristy. The waters are so clear that you can see the fish swimming in it. You can reach it either by car or by boat. Many consider it a hidden paradise but it can be quite an expensive experi-
ence due to the cost of the umbrellas and the list of the beach bar. Mikros Gyalos is so well organized that is considered the best choice for families with children. It is located in southeast side near Poros. There are bar-restaurants, umbrellas and sunbeds, water sports and free parking as well. Kalamitsi in the north west of the island is a beautiful beach but the access by car is rather tricky. There is a beach bar that provides sunbeds and umbrellas as well. Pefkoulia in the north is a quite sandy beach with pine trees and clear waters. Part of it organized with a beach bar that serves beverages and food, but you might want to chose the remote part of it that even welcomes nudists. Gialos beach in the west side is a huge beach that never gets really crowded. It is partly organized with beach bars and umbrellas but the further you walk it gets quieter. The clear blue waters are very cold for many. The access by car is not easy and it requires your full attention while you drive. Kavalikefta beach is also in the west side, south of Agios Nikitas. There are beach bars with umbrellas but if you want to experience an exotic scenery take a walk to the left side towards Megali Petra and you will be astonished by its clear blue waters. There is also a tavern with sunbeds and umbrellas. Agios Giannis beach is very near to Kefalonia city. It is a beautiful sea scape though in many spots of the beach big stone plates cause a distasteful feeling. The windmills nearby create a nice scenery and the wind offers to watersports lovers the ideal
spot for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Tsoukalades is another amazing and quite beach very near to the city of Lefkada. Desimi beach in the east south side on the island is a rather quiet place even though there is a camping right next to it, with outstanding landscape. The trees arrive at the beach while there are two caves in the sea where you can approach by rented canoes or boats.
Sights and Experiences In Lefkada there are a number of licensed schools for windsurfing, kitesurfing, sailing, diving, waterskiing, paragliding, horsing, mountain-biking, hiking and other sports. Sailing holidays in Lefkada can be a great experience. The Ionian inland sea surrounding Lefkada by Madouri, Skorpios, Meganisi, Kalamos, Kastos, is the perfect area for island-hopping by boat or yacht either from the main port of Lefkada or Nydri where you can organize a cruise day trip to the nearby beaches and islands. If you are adventurous and want to explore the area by your own you can rent a car or a motor-bike. Food in Lefkada is part of the local culture and it is based on recipes with fish, meat or vegetables or international dishes. There are numerous taverns, cafés and cocktail bars. Night life in Lefkada offers many options for entertainment since many beach bars turn to a disco- club during the night. There are many playgrounds and children friendly areas in Lefkada. And either you like or dislike shopping,
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Entrance to the Lefkada Port and Beach
don’t lose the opportunity to enter a local store and check out Lefkada’s traditional products. The Monastery of Panagia Faneromeni is the most important religious centre on the island of Lefkada and is located on a hill above the city of Lefkada. The monastery has a gorgeous view to the capital city, the northern side of the island and the opposite coasts of the mainland. It is situated in the region of Frini and it is the saint protector of the island. According to the tradition, the monastery of Panagia Faneromeni was originally built in 1634 on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Artemis, the goddess of hunting. There is a small zoo in the garden areas, with a lot of beautiful birds, goats, deer, bunnies and other exotic animals.
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Culture and Events Music has a long tradition in the Ionian Islands and Lefkada has also contributed to this with its historic Philharmonic Society that was founded in 1850 and is the oldest Society in the vicinity and the second Philharmonic to have been created in Greece. Lefkada was also the first in Greece to inaugurate a Literature and Arts Festivals, in 1955, and the International Folklore Festival in 1962. Ever since, these events have taken place every August, drawing on the age-old Ionian traditions. Aside to the fact that they were immediately adopted by the local community they also became an attraction of tourists. The Literature and Art Festivals offer a variety of events such as lectures, theatre performances and concerts. There have been
numerous exceptional moments over the years like the unplanned appearance of Maria Callas in 1964, her last performance before a Greek audience. Internationally acclaimed scholars of the social sciences, outstanding Greek writers, renowned musicians, actors and more have participated in these festivals and functions. During the Folklore Festival, the town’s streets are filled with dancers from countries around the world in their national costumes, dancing and singing at the main square, waving flags and banners. The entire island is infused with the enthusiasm created by colorful national costumes, the variety of the music and the cheerfulness of dance groups from East and West. For a whole week, performances are given in the open-air theatre at Vardania on the edge of town.
Going to Lefkada town, by Ammoglossa, there is the fort of Agia Mavra a type of fortification architecture of the Middle Ages that protected the capital from the first decade of the fourteenth century until 1684. There are indications that it was built on the site of an ancient temple οφ Aphrodite Aeniada. Inside the fort ruins of buildings still stand from the days of Venetian domination – barracks, ammunition stores, administrative buildings, a hospital, dwellings – renovated during the British occupation. There is a lighthouse on the small bastion of the north west side and Davis’s cenotaph, and on the eastern is the church of Agia Mavra. The fort, the walled town and the quarters on the outside took their name from this church. Some of Lefkada’s best features are its churches. They include basilicas, with LiFO Greek Islands
the influence of Venetian architecture, usually adorned with iconography in the traditional Ionian (LateCretan) devotional style and with beautifully sculpted wooden iconostases, some in gold leaf. Most were built between the 17th and 18th centuries while their iconography was by notable devotional painters. The Lefkada Archaeological Museum (+30 26450 21635) is housed on the ground floor of the old Town Hall where the Municipal Cultural Centre is also located. Its small collection includes finds, photographs and other information concerning the region’s dynamics. There is a presentation of the important work of excavations of the 20th century by the German archaeologist Wilhelm Dörpfeld, who, applying advanced and inter-disciplinary methods, searched the island for evidence to prove his theory that Lefkada was Homer’s Ithaca. The museum’s collection cover the period from the Paleolithic to Roman times. Exhibits come from various locations on the island, such as the ancient capital Nirikos and its environs. Some of the most important exhibits include. The Folklore Museum of the ‘Orfeas’ club (+30 26450 22778, 26450 22778) located behind Lefkada’s central square contains over 1000 objects of use and implements of agricultural life, tools, vessels as well as traditional costumes, embroidery, instruments of crafts etc. Lafcadio Hearn Historical Center (+30 26450 26635) is situated in the Cultural Center of the Municipality of Lefkada. Lafkadio Hearn (1850 – 1904) born in Lefkada half Greek half Irish was also known by the Japanese name Koizumi Yakumo, a writer known
best for his books about Japan, especially his collections of Japanese legends and ghost stories while he was also known in the US for his writings about the city of New Orleans. Texts, photographs, exhibits and audiovisual applications help the visitor to explore the milestones of the extraordinary life of Lafcadio Hearn along with the cultures of Europe, USA and Japan of the late 19th and early 20th century. The Antiques Exhibition Phonograph Museum (+30 26450 21088) located in the old town of Lefkada is a small-sized museum – private collection with phonographs, records, rare objects of use, decorative objects, coins, seals and photographs. The Folklore Museum in Kavalos, 12 km out of the city of Lefkada, is housed in the renovated building of the old Primary School of Kavalos village. The exhibits are arranged by the collector Andreas Lazaris who has gathered about 2,500 traditional professions tools, as well as objects from the daily agricultural life, military and religious documents. In a separate room, it is also hosting a second, much smaller collection donated by the late Christos Katopodis which contains mainly traditional woven costumes of the region. These two initial collections continue to be enriched by adding items offered spontaneously by many residents of the nearby villages.
Moving Around Lefkada is a big island with a great public transportation service. There are local buses connecting all villages and beaches on the island though there are places that are not easily accessible. There is a central bus station
in the city of Lefkada. Taxis are also extensively used. You can even book your taxi online. There are car rental agencies in all touristic areas. There are small boats for day trips as well connecting the smaller islands and remote beaches from the harbors of Agios Nikitas, Vassiliki and Nidri. From Nidri you can take a boat to Meganisi Ιsland.
More to know Visit the cape Lefkata where according to the myth lyric poetess Sappho flung herself off the into the sheer drop into the waters because of the rejection of a ferryman. Sappho’s leap is located on the southern spot of the cape where there once stood a shrine dedicated to Apollo. Today there is an old lighthouse while the white limestone cliffs are very impressive. The island actually owes its name to this remote cape since Lefkata derives from the “lefkas akri” – white tip. It is not easy to reach it since you have to walk a 16km road above Vassiliki. Get to know the waterfalls of Nydri. There is an abundant storage of underground water on the island which is one of the principal reasons why a major part of Lefkada is lush with vegetation. In its high mountains there are many waterfalls that cascade from the mountainous terrain and end up into the sea. One such gorgeous waterfall is the Dimossari waterfall that can be found on the outskirts of Nydri. It ends up into a gorge which is replete with white rocks. In the gorgeous Mediaeval Castle of Aghia Mavra (known also as Santa Maura) you can see the church of Agia Mavra. It was built in the 15th century by Helena Palaiologina who built this church in honor of Agia Mavra who once protected her
from a storm when she came to the island for the wedding of her daughter to the Count of Lefkada. After the Turks occupied the island, they converted it into a mosque. You can see the ruins of the construction of the bridge built by the Turks that connected the castle with the city. In 1500, the Venetians restored the Castle, and in 1684 they placed a lion above the Castle’s gate, the symbol of Venice. During World War II, the castle suffered Italian attacks and was destroyed by bombs. Today it hosts various cultural events during the summer season.
Getting there
Lefkada is connected to the mainland by a long causeway and a floating bridge, therefore there are many different ways to get there. The city of Lefkada which is situated on the northern part of the island is approximately one hour by automobile away from Aktion International Airport near the city of Preveza which during summer is connected with Athens, Thessaloniki, Corfu, Zakynthos, Kefalonia, Kithira and Crete as well as some European airports. There is no scheduled bus service from the airport to Lefkada, although the Preveza - Lefkada bus, will make a stop at the top of the airport road by request. There are taxis, but it is better if you pre-book. There is a bus service from Athens, Thessaloniki, Patras and Igoumenitsa. Lefkada has ferry links to the adjacent islands of Kefalonia and Ithaki. The service varies during winter and summer, so you will have to check the itineraries. There is also service between Vassiliki at the south tip of Lefkada, to Frikes in Ithaki and Fiskardo in Kefalonia. Astakos on the mainland is also linked to Vassiliki.
Have a great
Summer
Balos