C y mug hug!
Merry as ! Christm FABULOUS
23
Lu u Y i S from top designers JANE CROWFOOT
KAT GOLDIN
ALESSANDRA HAYDEN
SUE PINNER
FESTIVE MAKES
NICKI TRENCH DEDRI UYS
OW N UT O
BRIT & CR ISH KN IT OCH ET A TING WAR DS
CHRISTMAS
EDITION
n I N S I G N AT U R E 4 P L Y FOR MORE INFORMATION AND YOUR NEAREST STOCKIST VISIT
WWW.WYSPINNERS.COM TEL� �0�1535 664500 · EML� SALES@WYSPINNERS.COM
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Say hello to the January doll from our 2018 calendar, one of the fun characters exclusively designed for us by Kerry Lord of Toft. You’ll find a whole year’s worth of gorgeous dress-up doll patterns to mix, match and love. In other news, Christmas. Go big on luxurious accessories, Santa amigurumi, and sparkly sequins. Can’t decide what you want? Our wishlist is here to help.
Simply
Crochet 26
Sup soft alpaca y p76 ISSUE SIXTY-FOUR
CONTENTS
Psst
Ca E Cr S d
Hook a vintage look… complete with pompo !
Gi T t Ch R s P20
Ex I i Cr C e Id A t In P r y 14 ACCESSORY GIFT IDEAS 26 CAPE & BEANIE SET 37 AMIGURUMI SANTA 42 LACY TOP 47 EMBELLISH AN OUTFIT 51 HOOK TO HOOK
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check out o T n to page 51 and u could d ign challenge – yo win DY Choice y n!
Sp kly sequin ee p83
59 CHILD’S PENGUIN HAT 65 HERRINGBONE HTR STITCH 68 GRANNY SQUARE BLANKET 83 SEQUIN CHRISTMAS TREE 95 MAKE A MANDALA
68
7 s n A- a t C
42
59
37 5 h r In b Ne h S
G d Re D
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09 HOOKED 34 KAT GOLDIN 56 CHRISTMAS WISHLIST 62 HANNAH CROSS 70 KERRY LORD 78 SHOW US YOURS! 98 MY HOOKY TREASURE
76 YARN REVIEWS Snuggly alpaca blend yarns
80 THE WORKSHOP Hook with sequins like a pro
87 THE GUIDE Essential step-by-steps for you
93 CHARTS
Wint mandala, p95
X s Wi H 6i P5
Festive faves Commissioning Editor Sara Huntington Art Editor Kimberly Saunders Technical Assistant Cara Medus Production Editor Becca Parker Digital Editors Kate Evans, Matthew Spiers Cover Photography Phil Sowels Photography Philip Sowels, Jesse Wild, Dave Caudery
Don’t panic! There’s still time to get your hook on if you’re into making gifts for Christmas. We are spoiling you with gorgeous gifts in alpaca from top designers (page 14), seasonal makes for your home, and a whole calendar of fabulous toys from Toft! Looking ahead, we’re really excited about the British Craft Awards 2018, and you can join in by voting for your favourite designer, blogger, brand, yarn and product – turn to page 81 to find out how to vote before the deadline. Merry crocheted Christmas, one and all!
Group Art Editor Louise Bambridge Editor-in-Chief Debora Bradley Group Senior Editor Julie Taylor
Ad E Ti I G Call 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes Account Sales Manager Rachael Hawkins Brand Sales Executive Alexandra Johnson
Ma K T g & Su S Ri T o Direct Marketing Executive Kate Jones
Ci C La I
Co T Ib T r
Ooh look! Who you’ll find in this month’s pages…
Head of Newstrade Marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade Marketing Manager Janine Smith International Account Manager Juliette Winyard
Pr D Ct O Production Controller Sarah Greenhalgh Production Manager Emma McGuinness / Siân Rodgers Production Director Sarah Powell
Bu I T m Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan, Corinne Mellerup
Li E S g Senior Licensing & Syndication Manager Tim Hudson
“MY DESI GN PROC ESS IS VERY ORGANIC ”
“I’M OBSESSED WITH TAPESTRY CRCOHET.”
JANE CROWFOOT
ALESSANDRA HAYDEN
Jane is renowned for her colourful designs for interiors – flowers combined into blankets are a speciality. You’ll find her beautiful pointsettia corsage on page 21.
Alessandra is the Brazilian stitcher behind Just Be Happy Crochet. She draws inspiration from her two children and from luxurious yarns. Find her stunning maze clutch on page 20.
Pu L Sh N Craft Publishing Director Kerry Lawrence Managing Director Bristol Andy Marshall Chief Executive Officer Tom Bureau
Su S Ri T o Call 03330 162 146 or subscribe online at www.buysubscriptions.com/craft
N d t g i To C ? EDITORIAL TEAM simplycrochet@immediate.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS TEAM simplycrochet@buysubscriptions.com 03330 162 146
N t Is U o S e Th R d 7 De E b 0 7 No gift included? Ask your newsagent. Covergift may be unavailable overseas.
“IT’S RARE FOR ME TO MAKE SOMETHING FOR MYSE LF.”
“I RETIRED FRO M ‘NO RMAL’ AN D TO OK UP CRO CHET!”LIFE
NICKI TRENCH
SUE PINNER
Expert crocheter and super craftswoman Nicki is the author of some of our favourite crafting bibles, and this issue she’s created the fun hat for kids on page 59 and the mitts on page 20.
A best-selling author and crochet club guru, Sue has a degree in fashion design. She’s put her talents to great use for us and designed the amazing diamond cowl on page 23.
OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Ilaria Caliri, Esme Crick, Lucy Croft, Hannah Cross, Judy Darley, Kat Goldin, Vicky Guerrero, Claire Guy, Catherine Hood, Tuula Kyrölä, Kerry Lord, Jenny May Forsyth, Esther Newman, Becky Skuse, Dedri Uys
Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered office of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage.
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Christmas Crochet Blanket Pattern 5117
Choose King Cole this Christmas E: enquiries@kingcole.com T: 01756703670 W: kingcole.com
For every King Cole pattern you buy, a donation, will be made to the Pink Ribbon Foundation.
Essentially Unbeatable Rico Essentials Crochet – top variety in 31 colours
www.rico-design.co.uk
Ideas
Inspiration
Accessories
Websites
Events
Stuff
The sweetest thing... Desperately searching for the perfect yarn to finish off those stocking fillers? Look no further: West Yorkshire Spinners’ brand new Candy Cane is a mouthwatering, self-striping festive fusion in their Signature 4ply. Ideal for accessories to brighten up grey days, it’s our choice for Christmas Day socks for sure. WYS is including an exclusive free sock pattern from blogger Winwick Mum with every purchase – spoil a knitting friend if the knitting thang is not for you. Find your nearest stockist at www.wyspinners.com. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
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GET LUCKY! We have three W
copies of Your Crochet Christmas to give away, worth £7.99 each. This collection is packed with over 50 festive favourites from Simply Crochet, including gorgeous gifts, sparkling decorations and cute winter warmer accessories. To be in with a chance of winning one, head to http:// competition. immediate.co.uk/ sc64mag
IN YOUR ELEMENT
F
resh from Stylecraft is this sassy cardigan and slouchy sweater duo (pattern 9403). It’s hooked in their new Batik Elements DK, an 80% acrylic and 20% wool blend that comes in eight luscious shades with a stonewashed effect (and it’s machine washable too). For stockists go to www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk
Trend alert
We Love... A must for Christmas makes for little tots, Mrs Moon’s newbie yarn Swaddle is made from the same ethically-sourced superfine merino/baby alpaca mix as their popular Plump and Plump DK, with an added twist to keep things extra soft for delicate skin. Swaddle comes in six mouthwatering shades including Gooseberry Fool, Marshmallow, Pavlova, Darjeeling, Fondant Fancy and Sugared Almond (our fave). Available in smaller 25g skeins, Swaddle is ideal for colourwork, and costs £4.20. Pop to the Crochet section in Projects on their website for some fab ideas to get you going, including cardis, hats and bootees. See www.mrsmoon.co.uk
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STASH BUSTERS Living amid a mountain of yarn oddments, a tumble of accessories and a plethora of runaway WIPs? You need some serious storage. Kick start your inner tidy-up fairy with these on trend floral HobbyGift workboxes, bags and cases. You’ll never lose a stitch marker again (probably). Track down a stockist at groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk
HOOKED
INSPIRING BOOKS THE GRANNY SQUARE BOOK MARGARET HUBERT (£16.99, Creative Publishing International)
Now on its second edition, this granny square bible has been updated with 25 additional squares, making a whopping 100 in total! As well as covering the crochet basics and the square patterns themselves, Margaret includes 25 projects, and gives plenty of tips and ideas for how to create your own designs.
mini profile
OBSESSED! Nerissa Muijs first picked up a crochet hook in 2012, towards the end of her pregnancy. And instead of her new passion tailing off once she had a new baby to care for, it just grew into a full-blown obsession. These days she blogs regularly on her own site, and on Scheepjes’ site too, and creates stunning patterns (many of them available on her site) for homewares, clothing, accessories and toys. We had a chat to find out more about what inspires her. “My love for crochet began when other people start nesting. I picked up a hook and I haven’t put it down since! Even though I learned to crochet as a kid, it was just a skill I had, but not a passion. “I find inspiration all around me. I’m always snapping pictures of shapes and objects wherever I go – fabric patterns, garment shapes, cute ornaments that could become amigurumis, and a lot of inspiration comes from knitwear and quilting designs. “The design that makes me the happiest is the Scandinavian Christmas Gnomes that I
EDWARD’S CROCHET DOLL EMPORIUM KERRY LORD (£16.99, Pavilion Books)
made a year or so ago. It’s amazing how much joy a tiny beard and nose can bring! “I’m left-handed, but cannot follow any left handed instructions – my brain just automatically flips any right-handed images or videos. I can’t use any tools designed for left-handers either. I’m sure lots of other lefties can relate to this!” Find Nerissa at missneriss.com and on instagram at @miss__neriss. Nerissa is also a Scheepjes blogger: www.scheepjes.com/en/ bloggers/miss-neriss
SUBS STARS! Every month, three subscribers win a prize as a thank you for their loyalty. This month, the winners (below) will each receive Lily Sugar ‘n Cream cotton yarn, plus the crochet pattern for a trio of pretty and practical baskets to make! Mrs Carrie Page, Ashford Mrs Maureen Willis, Queensferry Lynn Blacklock, Berwick-upon-Tweed Immediate Media Company, publishers of Simply Crochet, Subs Stars giveaway terms and conditions. Prizes were dispatched before the on sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into.
Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
Create friends and family in crochet in this latest ‘Edward’ book from Kerry Lord, founder of the TOFT brand. It’s a fun flip book that lets you mix and match hairstyles and outfits – so whether you want to make your granddad as a cowboy, or your daughter as a jockey, you’ll find everything you need!
POCKET AMIGURUMI SABRINA SOMERS (£9.99, Search Press)
Get ready for a new obsession – the mini monsters in this fun collection are so quick to crochet you’ll find yourself wanting to make them all! From a spiky wolf guardian to a springy mouse, there are 20 cute designs to choose from, each one just 10cm high. Suitable for crocheters of all abilities, they’re easy to make, with clear step-by-step instructions.
TIE & DYE LIZZIE KING (£12.99, Pavilion Books)
Rock the tie-dye look with this fab book packed with ideas to jazz up your clothes and home accessories. You’ll find 15 trendy projects, from rainbow laces and colourful babygrows to shibori tea towels and fun watermelon bunting. Simple step-by-step photographs and instructions show you how to create a myriad of special effects.
FREE MAKES WSometimes it’s
ALPACA WALK
better to receive than to give… Sign up to the Simply Christmas 12 Days of Christmas, and you’ll receive a free festive project every day for 12 days. Follow the mag at www.facebook.com/ simplychristmasmag to find out more and to enjoy fun festive ideas and projects. Gift the resulting projects to make sure you don’t end up on the Naughty List! The print version of the mag is available from newsagents.
F
ancy a stroll through a meadow with an alpaca by your side? Thought so. There’s lots of yarny happenings at Yew Tree Alpacas in East Hertfordshire, but we think spending £25 (£34 for two) for 45 minutes of serenity in the lush company of such a beautiful creature is just the best, especially as tea and cake are included. Dates for January and February are filling up fast, so you’d best be quick to book. www.yewtreealpacas.co.uk
CHARITY LOVE
Heart you C cK s Looking for a fab gift for a hooky friend? Check out Woolly Chic’s Learn to Crochet Mandala Kit for the ideal pressie. The kit explains how to crochet a beautiful mandala using three stitches. It’s perfect for beginners and confident crocheters alike, and includes a guide, four 25g balls of Woolly Chic Welsh DK yarn, a 4mm hook, and a specially designed tote bag to sew the finished mandala onto. More at www.woollychicdesigns.co.uk 12 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Get Hooked on Crochet’s Ali Campbell is busy raising funds for Dorset Cancer Care Foundation. Got a bit of time to lend a hand? Just pop to her website and follow her free pattern to crochet this pretty little heart brooch using DK yarn from your stash. Send it to Ali and she’ll do all the rest. For more info, just head over to www.gethooked oncrochet.co.uk
SHH! IT’S A SECRET! What could be better than receiving a surprise gift every month, packed with hooky goodies? The Secret Crochet Club has launched just such a treat. The club collaborates with independent designers, makers and small businesses to produce boxes filled to the brim with everything crochet. Included are an exclusive pattern, all the yarn and tools needed to complete the project, plus a few extra treats from makers as well. Join the club at www.secretcrochetclub.com
HOOKED
5 FAB FINDS
SUNSHINE HIT
Christmas cheer Fabulous decorations for you to hook
Brighten up the dreariest of winter days with a pretty crochet tablecloth in summery colours. The Garden Room Tablecloth, designed by TheCurioCraftsRoom, is worked in Scheepjes Maxi yarn with a choice of two scrummy colour packs. Approx. £34.95, www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
1 HANGING AROUND Not just one, but 14 fun and festive decorations: enough to adorn your tree, your mantlepiece, your furniture – even you. Go to VliegendeHollander on Etsy for these and other gorgeous patterns.
2
BAUBLE BLING This show-stopping stellar sphere is set to be your glorious centrepiece - and it’s a lot simpler than it looks. Go to ASmartPattern on Etsy for inspiration.
out & about
Lo K n F y We’re all over pompoms this winter and these faux fur ones from Rowan are pretty darn cute. Handmade using 100% vegan fibres, they’re totally animal friendly and feel amazing. They come in five natural shades: cream, camel, coffee, steel grey and black. Each pompom has a ribbon, so they’re great for adding to hats, shawls or bag charms. £24 each, www.knitrowan.com
Skills, shows & events
GORGEOUS GONKS Ling Ryan is bonkers for gonks: find patterns for pilots, astronauts, fire fighters and these crazy cute santas at HookedoPatterns on Etsy.
NOV 23 26 Knitting & Stitching Show, £14.50 Harrogate International Centre www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com
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STARRY TREE Fairy fallen off her perch? All is not lost: quickly hook this stunning star and your tree will be complete. Go to crochetgiftsshop on Etsy.
TRIO OF TREES Tiny house? Allergic to pine? Tree-hating cats? NatalieSpot on Etsy has the answer: forego a trad tree, avoid all that needle hoovering, and hook up these instead.
5
NOV 26 Winter Woollies, Free Nanpantan, Leics, www.winterwoollies.webs.com
The Manor House, Martin, Lincs www.manorhousestables.co.uk
7 DEC Crochet a Necklace, £15 Chococo, Winchester, www.twome.co.uk
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image from www.twome.co.uk
2 DEC Tunisian Crochet, £48 Oxford Yarn Store, 3 North Parade Ave, Oxford www.oxfordyarnstore.co.uk/workshops 7 DEC Crochet Christmas Snowflakes, £65
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GIFT IDEAS
t ’ n d l u o h Oh, you s have . . . Make gorgeous baby alpaca accessories in rich jewel tones, for those who’ll love their luxury as much as you do.
Pe N e F m He V N If it were up to us, we’d use this elegant purse as a miniature clutch during the party season. Just sayin’. We’d also fill it with chocolate coins, but then we’re greedy like that.
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So, something we’ve always loved looks to be oh-so stylish right now. Pompoms have been everywhere this year – your fashionista friends will adore these.
GIFT IDEAS
b L e A statement corsage to transform a party outfit from ‘meh’ to ‘wow’ in an instant. If you make two (you know we will), keep one for yourself and add it to your winter coat for a touch of floral cheer in the coldest months.
Go H Re I a What about this bit of sartorial elegance, then? Go Gothic in medieval manner with a super cosy cowl. Wear with a jacket or use it to up the temperature when you pair it with your latest LBD. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 17
GIFT IDEAS
Tw N l T s One perfect pair for mama, and one perfect pair for babba: a joyous double gift that’s so impossibly cute, they’ll both be in tears. (Mama may not thank you for that…)
h ’
Wo D R l L e
This cosy hat is super-fast to make up, and the pompoms look a bit like tiny ears when you pop it on, which is a winner in our book. It looks fab with the mittens too, if you’re feeling generous. 18 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
GIFT IDEAS
MAZE CLUTCH Create geometry in Fair Isle in this tapestry-style clutch bag designed by Alessandra Hayden. Q Debbie Bliss Aymara (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Ruby (12), Yarn B Moss (08), Yarn C Amethyst (13) Q A 3.75mm (US F/5) hook Q A 30cm (12in) zip
TENSION 17 dc and 16 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over dc working in back loops
MEASUREMENTS Clutch measures 30x16.5cm (12x6 in)
NOTES The pattern is worked using the amigurumi method. Work stitches continuously in a spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work. The tapestry section of the Clutch is worked in back loops of stitches following the Chart (page 93). On the Chart, each square represents 1 dc stitch. Read all rounds from right to left. When changing colour mid-row, twist the ends of the two colours together. Pick up the new colour in the last yrh of the previous stitch. Carry the unused strands of yarn across the WS of the work.
CLUTCH Using Yarn A, ch52. Round 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to last ch, 2dc in last ch, rotate to work along opposite side of the starting chain, dc in each ch across to end. [102 dc] Rounds 2-4 Dc in each stitch around. Rounds 5-23 Using Yarns B and C, and working in back loops, follow Chart. Rounds 24-27 Change to Yarn A, working under both loops of each st, dc in each stitch around. Fasten off. TO FINISH Weave in ends. With the zip unzipped, pin carefully into place inside of the open edge of Clutch. With a sewing needle and matching thread, sew the zip to the Clutch. Add a tassel to zip by cutting 8 strands each 15cm (6in) long of Yarn B, pull the strands through the pull hole of the zip and tie it to form the tassel.
pompom MITTENS Hook a pair of snuggly mittens topped off with pompoms. By Nicki Trench. Q Debbie Bliss Aymara (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), 2 balls of Yarn A Gold (09), 1 ball of Yarn B Ruby (12) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A 5cm pompom maker Q Stitch marker
MEASUREMENTS Each mitt measures 23cm (9in) to fit an average-sized women’s hand
NOTES The mitts are worked from the cuffs to the fingertips. The cuffs are worked in rows and then joined before the mitt is worked into the row ends in rounds. RIBBED CUFF Using Yarn A, ch13. Row 1 Htr in 2nd ch from hook, htr in each of next 11 ch. [12 htr] Rows 2-19 Ch1 (does not count as st), htr in first st (through both loops), working in back loops only, htr in each of next 10 sts, htr in next st (through both loops). [12 htr] Do not fasten off. Fold the piece in half and work a ss seam to join the two ends together to form the Cuff. Turn the Cuff so that the seam is on the inside, and the loop is at the top ready to work the mitt. MITT To create an invisible seam, pull the slip stitch and the ch1 at the beginning of each round very tightly. Round 1 Ch1, work 36 dc evenly around the top of the cuff, ss in first dc to join. [36 sts] Round 2 Ch1, dc in each of next 8 sts, 2dc in next st, *dc in each of next 8 sts, 2dc in next st; repeat from * twice more, ss in first dc to join. [40 sts] Rounds 3-9 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss in first dc to join. Round 10 Ch1, dc in each of first 19 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 19 sts, 2dc in last st, ss in first dc to join. [42 sts] Rounds 11-12 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss in first dc to join. Round 13 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in each of next 11 sts, 2dc in next st, skip next 12 sts for thumbhole, 2dc in next st, dc in each of
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GIFT IDEAS
POINSETTIA CORSAGE Jazz up the traditional festive floral motif with sparkles. By Jane Crowfoot. Q Debbie Bliss Aymara (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Gold (09), Yarn B Amethyst (13), Yarn C Ruby (12), Yarn D Moss (08) Q Debbie Abrahams Size 6 Seed Beads in Gold (31), 90 beads required Q A 4mm (US E/4) hook Q Stitch markers Q Brooch pin
MEASUREMENTS Finished corsage measures approx 20cm (8in) at widest point; flower centre up to end of Round 4 measures 5cm (2in) across
ABBREVIATIONS
next 16 sts, ss in first dc to join. [33 sts] Rounds 14-26 Ch1, dc in each st around, skipping thumbhole, ss in first dc to join. Fasten off Yarn A, leaving an approx 8cm tail and join B with a ss in first st. [33 sts] Rounds 27-29 Join Yarn B in first st, ch1, dc in each st around, ss in first dc to join. Round 30 Ch1, dc in each of first 2 sts, dc2tog, *dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around to last st, dc in last st, ss in first dc to join. [25 sts] Round 31 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss in first dc to join. [25 sts] Round 32 Ch1, dc in first st, dc2tog, *dc in next st, dc2tog; repeat from * around to last st, dc in last st, ss in first dc to join. [17 sts] Round 33 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss in first dc to join. Round 34 Ch1, dc in same st, dc2tog 8 times, ss in first dc to join. [9 sts] Round 35 Ch1, dc in same st, dc2tog 4 times, ss in first dc to join. [5 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Weave tail through all sts in last round and pull tight to close.
dc to join. [7 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Weave tail through all sts in last round and pull tight to close. TO FINISH Using both Yarns A and B, make two pompoms and attach one to each Mitten on the front where the Cuff joins the Mitt.
bdc3 (Beaded dc with 3 beads to each stitch) Bring a group of 3 beads up to the top of the yarn so that they are sitting as close to the hook as possible, insert hook into the next st, yrh beyond the group of beads and pull through the stitch making sure no beads are drawn through at the same time, yrh and draw through both yarn loops on hook Tall picot Ch3, dc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch
NOTES Beads will come out on reverse of work, so the first 3 rounds are worked with WS facing;
THUMB Round 1 With RS facing, join Yarn A in first skipped st of thumbhole, ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in each of next 10 sts, 2dc in last st, ss in first dc to join. [14 sts] Rounds 2-10 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss in first dc to join. Round 11 Ch1, (dc2tog) 7 times, ss in first Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
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sts, dtr in next st, tr in each next 2 sts, htr in next st, dc into next st, ch3, dc in next ch-7 sp; repeat from * around, omitting last dc, ss to first to join. Fasten off. Round 10 Join Yarn A in last ch-3 sp made, ch1, dc into same ch sp, *ch1, working along unworked side of starting ch of next petal, dc in next ch, htr in next ch, tr in each next 2 ch, dtr in next ch, 2tr in each next 2 ch, (tr, tall picot, tr) in last ch at end of petal, working along opposite side of petal, 2tr in each next 2 sts, dtr in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in next st, dc in next st, ch1, dc into next ch-3 sp, working behind next leaf, ch3, dc into next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around, omitting last dc, ss to first to join. Fasten off, weave in ends and block to size.
make sure you turn at the end of Round 3. FRONT PIECE Thread 90 beads onto Yarn A. Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 5dc into loop, ss to first dc to join. Round 2 (WS) Ch1, 2bdc3 in each st around, ss to first dc to join. [10 sts] Round 3 (WS) Repeat Round 2, turn, fasten off. [20sts] Round 4 (RS) Join Yarn B in any st, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in same st, *tr in each next 3 sts, 2tr in next st; repeat from * around, omitting last 2tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 join, fasten off. [25 sts] Round 5 (RS) Join Yarn C in any st, ch1, dc into same st, *ch8, working back along ch-8, dc in 2nd ch from hook and each of next 6 ch, dc in next st on Round 4, ch3, skip 3 sts, dc into next st; repeat from * around, omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. [5 petals] Round 6 (RS) Ch1, *working along unworked side of starting ch of next petal, dc into next ch, htr in next ch, tr in each next 2 ch, dtr in next ch, 2tr in each of next 2 ch, (tr, tall picot, tr) in last ch at end of petal, working along opposite side of petal, 2tr in each of next 2 sts, dtr in next st, tr in each next 2 sts, htr in next st, dc into next st, ch1, skip next dc at base of petal, working in front of ch-3 sp, dc in each of next 2 skippied sts in Round 4, ch8, 22 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
working back along ch-8, dc in 2nd ch from hook and each of next 6 ch, dc into same st at base of petal, dc into next skipped st in Round 4, ch1, skip next dc in Round 5; repeat from * around, omitting last ch-1, ss to first dc to join. Round 7 *Working behind next petal, ch5, working along unworked side of starting ch of next petal, dc in next ch, htr in next ch, tr in each next 2 ch, dtr in next ch, 2tr in each next 2 ch, (tr, tall picot, tr) in last ch at end of petal, working along opposite side of petal, 2tr in each next 2 sts, dtr in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in next st, dc in next st, working behind next petal; repeat from * around, ss to firstt ch of first ch-5 sp to join. Fasten off. [10 petals] Round 8 Join Yarn A join yarn in and ch-5 sp behind petals, ch1, dc into same ch-sp, *working back along ch-8, dc in 2nd ch from hook and each of next 6 ch, dc into same ch-sp, working behind next petal, ch7, 1dc into next ch-5 sp; repeat from * around, omitting last dc ss to first dc to join. Fasten off. [5 leaves] Round 9 Working behind Petals, join Yarn D in any ch-7 sp, ch1, dc into same ch-sp, *ch8, working back along ch-8, dc in 2nd ch from hook and each of next 6 ch, dc into same ch-sp, ch3, working along unworked side of starting ch of next leaf, dc into next ch, htr in next ch, tr in each next 2 ch, dtr in next ch, 2tr in each of next 2 ch, (tr, tall picot, tr) in last ch at end of petal, working along opposite side of petal, 2tr in each of next 2
BACK PIECE Using Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as a tr throughout) 14tr into loop, ss to top of beg ch-3 join. [15 sts] Round 2 Ch3, tr into st at base of ch-3, 2tr into each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3 join. [30 sts] Round 3 Ch3, tr into st at base of ch-3, tr into next st, *2tr into next st, tr into next st; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 join. [45 sts] Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as a st), dc into each st around, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off. TO FINISH Oversew Back Piece to reverse of corsage. Sew brooch pin in place.
GIFT IDEAS
Square E = Yarn A Amethyst, Yarn B Moss Square F = Yarn A Moss, Yarn B Amethyst Using Yarn A, wrap yarn around your finger 10 times, hold firmly and secure with a ss. Round 1 16dc into loop of wrapped yarn, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off. [16 dc] Round 2 Join Yarn B in any dc, ch3 (counts as tr), dtr in st at base of ch-3, ch3 (outer corner), (dtr, tr) in next st, tr in each of next 3 sts, (ch1, ss to adjacent corner of Gold Square, ch1, tr in each of next 4 sts) twice, ch1, ss to adjacent corner of Gold Square, ch1, tr in each of next 3 sts, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. Using the Chart as a guide, join the coloured squares to the top and bottom edge of the Cowl. EDGING
UPPER EDGING Join Gold in any ch-3 outer corner, ch3 (counts as tr), (tr, picot, 2tr) in same ch-3 corner, tr in each of next 5 sts, *tr in each of next 4 tr on next square, tr in next dtr, (2tr, picot, 2tr) in next ch-3 corner, tr in each of next 5 sts; repeat from * 10 more times, tr in each of next 4 tr on next square, tr in next dtr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off.
LOWER EDGING
DIAMOND cowl Medieval patterns were the inspiration for this cowl, says designer Sue Pinner. Q Debbie Bliss Aymara (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), 2 balls of Gold (09), 1 ball of each: Amethyst (13), Ruby (12), Moss (08) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook
3 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. SUBSEQUENT GOLD SQUARES MAKE 35 Complete the first square then repeat the basic square pattern joining at the corners to the previous square(s) by replacing the ch3 at the corner with (ch1, ss to corner on adjacent square, ch1).
Join Gold in any ch-3 outer corner, ch1 (does not count as st), (dc, ch5, dc) in same ch-3 corner, *(ch3, dc in next st) 5 times, ch3, dc in next tr on next square, (ch3, dc in next st) 4 times, ch3, (dc, ch5, dc) in next ch-3 corner; repeat from * 11 more times omitting last (dc, ch5, dc). Fasten off.
MEASUREMENTS Each square measures 4x4cm (1 x1 in), cowl measures 35x20cm (14x8in) laid flat
ABBREVIATIONS Picot Ch5, ss to 5th ch from hook BASIC GOLD SQUARE MAKE 1 Using Gold, wrap yarn around your finger 10 times, hold firmly and secure with a ss. Round 1 16dc into loop of wrapped yarn, ss to first dc to join. [16dc] Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in each of next 3 sts, ch3, (tr in each of next 4 sts, ch3) Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
COWL Make 36 Gold Squares and, using the Chart as a guide, join them in 3 rows of 12 squares, joined end-on in a diamond pattern, then join the squares at the ends of the rows to make a loop. OUTER SQUARES MAKE 24 Make four of each: Square A = Yarn A Moss, Yarn B Ruby Square B = Yarn A Ruby, Yarn B Moss Square C = Yarn A Ruby, Yarn B Amethyst Square D = Yarn A Amethyst, Yarn B Ruby WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 23
GIFT IDEAS
Rounds 5-8 Ch1, dc in each st around. [- (40: 40) sts] Fasten off.
INSTEP Size B only Round 1 Join Yarn A in first st, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each of next 8 sts, 2tr in next st, tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [20 tr] Round 2 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr in each of next 4 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, tr in each of next 4 tr, ch1, tr in next st, tr in each st across to end, ss to 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. Round 3 Ch2 (does not counts as st), (tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, skip next tr, tr in each st across to end, ss to top of first tr to join. Round 4 Repeat Round 3. Round 5 Ch2 (does not counts as st), (tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, skip next tr, 8fdc, skip next 8 tr, ss to top of first tr to join.
Mummy AND BABy SOCKS Christmas babies are a special gift in their own right. Celebrate the new mums and babies in your life by giving the gift of cosy toes. By Kat Goldin. Q Debbie Bliss Aymara (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), Mummy socks: 2 balls of Yarn A Gold (09), 1 ball of Yarn B Amethyst (13), Baby socks: 1 ball of each: Yarn A Moss (08), Yarn B Ruby (12) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Stitch markers
TENSION 20 tr and 10 rows in pattern measures 10x10cm (4x4in) TOE Using Yarn B, ch6 (13: 13). Round 1 2dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each
of next 3 (10: 10) ch, 4dc in last ch, rotate to work along opposite side of starting ch, dc in each of next 3 (10: 10) ch, 2dc in last st, ss to first dc to join. [14 (28: 28) sts] Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in first st, 5 (12: 12) dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, 5 (12: 12) dc, 2dc in last st, join. [18 (32: 32) sts] Size B only Rounds 3-4 Ch1, dc in each st around. [18 (-: -) sts] Fasten off. Sizes M and L only Round 3 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 14 dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, 14 dc, 2dc in last st, join. [- (36: 36) sts] Round 4 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 16 dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, 16 dc, 2dc in last st, join. [- (40: 40) sts]
Sizes M and L only Round 1 Join Yarn A in first st, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [41 tr] Round 2 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr in each of next 4 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next st, tr in each of next 3 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, tr in each of next 4 tr, ch1, tr in each st across to end, ss to 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. Round 3 Ch2 (does not counts as st), (tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-2 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, skip next tr, tr in each st across to end, ss to top of first tr to join. Rounds 4-13 Repeat Round 3. Size L only Rounds 14-15 Repeat Round 3.
SIZE
B
M
L
Baby
4-5
6-7
cm
11.5
23
24.5
in
4
9
9
UK SHOE SIZE
FOOT LENGTH
To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.
24 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Sizes M and L only Next round Ch2 (does not counts as st), (tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-2 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, skip next tr, 19fdc, skip last 20 tr, ss to top of first tr to join.
GIFT IDEAS
ANKLE Size B only Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), *(tr, ch2, tr) in ch-1 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in ch-1 sp, tr in next tr, (tr in each of next 2 fdc, skip next fdc) twice, tr in each of next 2 fdc, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next tr, *(tr, ch2, tr) in ch-2 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-2 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 2 tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Rounds 3-6 Repeat Round 2. Fasten off. Sizes M and L only Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), *(tr, ch2, tr) in ch-1 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-2 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in ch-1 sp, tr in next tr, (tr in each of next 2 fdc, skip next fdc) twice, tr in each of next 3 fdc, (tr, ch2, tr) in next fdc, tr in each of next 3 fdc, (skip next fdc, tr in each of next 2 fdc) twice, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next tr, *(tr, ch2, tr) in ch-2 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-2 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 1 tr, FPtr round next 2 sts, skip 1 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr; repeat from * once more, omitting last 2 tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Rounds 3-10 Repeat Round 2. Fasten off.
HEEL All sizes Round 1 Join Yarn A at heel corner to work along opposite side of fdc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each fdc across to corner, place marker in last st made, rotate to work into unworked trs in last round of Instep, dc in each tr around to first dc, ss to first dc to join, mark last st of round. [16 (39: 39) dc] Round 2 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to 2 sts before marker, dc2tog, dc in marked st, move marker up, dc2tog, dc in each st to 2 sts before marker, dc2tog, dc in marked st, move marker up. [12 (35: 35) dc] Round 3 Ch1, dc in each st around.
Rounds 4-5 (11: 11) Repeat Rounds 2-3 one (three: three) more times. [8 (23: 23) sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. TO FINISH Thread tail onto a sewing needle and sew together heel seam neatly.
POMPOM HAt This might be the most cheerful-looking hat we’ve ever seen! By Dedri Uys. Q Debbie Bliss Aymara (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Gold (09), Yarn B Amethyst (13), Yarn C Ruby (12), Yarn D Moss (08) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A 7cm pompom maker
TENSION 22 sts and 16 rows to measure approx 10x10cm (4x4in) over treble crochet
MEASUREMENTS 56cm (22in) circumference, 19cm (7 in) tall
ABBREVIATIONS BPhtr Yrh, starting at the back, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the indicated st, complete as for htr
HAT Using Yarn A, ch63. Round 1 Dc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch to last ch, 2dc in last ch, then working along opposite side of starting ch, dc in each ch across, ss to first dc to join. [124 dc] Rounds 2 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [124 htr] Rounds 3-9 Repeat Round 2. Fasten off. Round 10 Join Yarn D by making a ss around BP of any st, ch2 (counts as BPhtr), BPhtr around each st around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [124 BPhtr] Rounds 11-17 Repeat Round 2. Fasten off. Round 18 Using Yarn B, repeat Round 10. Rounds 19-25 Repeat Round 2. Fasten off. Round 26 Using Yarn B, repeat Round 10. Rounds 27-31 Repeat Round 2. Round 32 Ch2, htr in next 28 sts, htr2tog, (htr in next 29 sts, htr2tog) three times, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [120 sts] Round 33 Ch2, htr in next 27 sts, htr2tog, (htr in next 28 sts, htr2tog) three times, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. [116 sts] POMPOMS Using all 4 colours held together, make two pompoms. Then sew them in the corners of the hat.
YARN STOCKISTS Designer Yarns 01535 664222 www.designeryarns.uk.com
SAVE OR SPLURGE For a more budget-friendly make, you could use King Cole Baby Alpaca DK (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m) in Basil (3068), Minstrel (1786), Straw (1791) and Sunset (1788) For yarn stockists contact King Cole www.kingcole.com
YARN DESIGNER YARNS ARE OFFERING SIMPLY CROCHET READERS THE CHANCE TO WIN ALL THE DEBBIE BLISS AYMARA YARN TO MAKE OFFER THE PROJECTS IN THIS GIFT COLLECTION THAT’S 23 BALLS IN TOTAL! SEE HTTP://COMPETITION.IMMEDIATE.CO.UK/SC64YARN
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Psst
Get a fa : look by sb f tive bea on titching the im
cape & beanie set
Sleighing it Get your vintage glamour on with a showstopping cape and hat set. By Lucy Croft and Sara Huntington.
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cape & beanie set A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT
3.5MM 5MM
Forget Game of Thrones fur wraps, this is the cape to be seen in this season. Fall in love with the sassy high collar, cute pompom bow and luscious shades, then make the sweetest beanie to match.
CAPE
b a c
NOTES YOU WILL NEED DROPS Karisma Mix (100% wool, 50g/100m), Yarn A Petrol (73) Q DROPS Karisma Uni Colour (100% wool, 50g/100m), Yarn B Wine Red (48) See table for yarn quantities and measurements for the cape Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook for the Cape Q A 3.5mm (E/4) hook for the Beanie Q A 45mm pompom maker (Cape) Q A 7cm pompom maker (Beanie) For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk Q
TENSION Cape Due to the nature of the stitch pattern and increases, the stitch tension varies over the cape. At the top, the tension is 12 sts to 10cm (4in), at the bottom it is 14 sts to 10cm (4in). The row tension is 8 rows to 10cm (4in) throughout, all with a 5mm hook. If working a tension swatch without shaping, aim to match the 14 sts to 10cm tension. Beanie 14 tr and 9 rows measures 10x10cm (4x4in) over tr
The Cape is worked from the top down and then the collar, border and ties are added.
CAPE By Lucy Croft With Yarn A, ch63 (71: 75). Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across to end, turn. [62 (70: 74) dc] Row 2 (WS) and all even rows Ch4 (counts as dtr throughout), crossed dtr across to last st, dtr in last st, turn. [2 dtr and 30 (34: 36) crossed dtr] Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in first st,*2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 6 (8: 8) dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 6 (6: 8) dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 6 (8: 8) dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * once more, dc in last st, turn. [86 (94: 98 dc] Row 4 [2 dtr and 42 (46: 48) crossed dtr] Row 5 Ch1, dc in first st, *2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 10 (12: 12) dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 10 (10: 12) dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 10 (12: 12) dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * once more, dc in last st, turn. [110 (118: 122 dc] Row 6 [2 dtr and 54 (58: 60) crossed dtr] Row 7 Ch1, dc in first st, *2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 14 (16: 16) dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 14 (14: 16) dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc
Length a (excluding collar): 36 (38.5: 41)cm, 14 (15: 16)in Width b: 39 (44: 46.5)cm, 15 (17 : 18 )in Width c: 114 (134: 151.5)cm, 45 (53: 59 )in in each of next 14 (16: 16) dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * once more, dc in last st, turn. [134 (142: 146 dc] Row 8 [2 dtr and 66 (70: 72) crossed dtr] Row 9 Ch1, dc in first st, *2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 18 (20: 20) dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 18 (18: 20) dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 18 (20: 20) dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * once more, dc in last st, turn. [158 (166: 170 dc] Row 10 [2 dtr and 78 (82: 84) crossed dtr] Row 11 Ch1, dc in first st,*2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 22 (24: 24) dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 22 (22: 24) dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 22 (24: 24) dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * once more, dc in last st, turn. [182 (190: 194 dc] Row 12 [2 dtr and 90 (94: 96) crossed dtr]
SMALL SIZE ONLY Row 13 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [182 dc] Rows 14-29 Repeat Rows 12-13 eight more times. Fasten off and weave in ends.
FINISHED SIZE OF BEANIE 50cm (20in) brim circumference SIZE
ABBREVIATIONS Crossed dtr Skip next st, dtr in next st, dtr in skipped st For a full list, see page 92
TO FIT BUST LENGTH EXCLUDING COLLAR WIDTH ROW 1 OF CAPE
6-10
12-18
20-24
cm
76-86
91-107
112-122
in
30-34
36-42
44-48
cm
36
38.5
41
in
14
15
16
cm
52
58
62
in
20
22
24
cm
130
153
173
in
51
60
68
YARN A
100g
6
7
8
YARN B
100g
1
1
2
WIDTH AT BOTTOM
To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column. 28 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
cape & beanie set MEDIUM SIZE ONLY Row 13 Ch1, dc in first st, *2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 28 dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 26 dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 28 dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * once more, dc in last st, turn. [214 dc] Row 14 [2 dtr and 106 crossed dtr] Row 15 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [214 dc] Rows 16-31 Repeat Rows 12-13 eight more times. Fasten off and weave in ends.
LARGE SIZE ONLY Row 13 Ch1, dc in first st, *2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 28 dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 28 dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 28 dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * once more, dc in last st, turn. [218 dc] Row 14 [2 dtr and 108 crossed dtr] Row 15 Ch1, dc in first st, *2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 32 dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 32 dc, 2dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 32 dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * once more, dc in last st, turn. [242 dc] Row 16 [2 dtr and 120 crossed dtr] Row 17 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [242 dc] Rows 18-33 Repeat Rows 12-13 eight more times. Fasten off and weave in ends. COLLAR Row 1 (WS) With WS facing, join Yarn A in first ch along opposite side of starting chain, ch4 (counts as dtr throughout), crossed dtr across to last st, dtr in last st, turn. [2 dtr and 30 (34: 36) crossed dtr] Row 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. [62 (70: 74) dc] Row 3 Ch4, crossed dtr across to last st, dtr in last st, turn. [2 dtr and 30 (34: 36) crossed dtr] Row 4 Repeat Row 2. Fasten off and weave in ends.
in each dc around, working 3dc in each corner dc, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. TIE Using Yarn B, ch200. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Fasten off. Weave tie under the upper dtr of each crossed dtr in Row 2 of the Cape and even the length of the ties. Using a 45mm pompom maker, make 2 pompoms and attach one to each tie. BEANIE By Sara Huntington Using Yarn B make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 8dc into loop, ss to first dc to join. Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in st at base of ch-3, 2tr in each st around, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [16 tr] Round 3 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next st, (2tr in next st, tr in next st) 7 times, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [24 tr] Round 4 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each of next 2 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts) 7 times, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [32 tr] Round 5 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each of next 3 sts (2tr in next st, tr in each
of next 3 sts) 7 times, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [40 tr] Fasten off. Round 6 Join Yarn A in first st, ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, dtr round stem of corresponding tr in Round 3, skip tr in Round 5, (tr in next 3 sts, 2tr in next st, dtr round stem of corresponding tr in Round 3) 7 times, tr in last 3 sts, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [48 sts] Round 7 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 5 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 5 sts) 7 times, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [56 sts] Round 8 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 6 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 6 sts) 7 times, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [64 sts] Rounds 9-18 Ch3, tr in each st around, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [64 sts] Fasten off. Round 19 Join Yarn B in first st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st, dc in each of next 2 sts, dtr round stem of corresponding tr from Round 17, (dc in next 3 sts, dtr in next tr in Round 17, skip next tr in Round 18) 15 times, ss in first dc to join. Round 20 Ch3, tr in each st around, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [64 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. Using Yarn B, make a pompom and sew to the top of the hat.
A smaller hook means tighter stitches on the beanie.
BORDER Round 1 (RS) With RS facing, Join Yarn B in first st of last row of Collar, ch1 (does not count as st), *3dc in first st, dc in each st across to last st, 3dc in last st, rotate to work into row ends, working 1dc in each dc row end and 3dc in each dtr row end across to corner, turn to work into last row of cape; repeat from * around to first st, ss to first dc to join. Round 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
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KAT’S JOURNAL
o i d u t s e h t m o r ... f
Designer and blogger Kat Goldin explains how she fell in love with the beauty of the Scottish landscape and why it’s now her home. o well did he fit his life into this place that he is remembered, even in the family, as having belonged here.” I got chills when I first read that quote from Wendell Berry. With both my husband and I being immigrants to the UK, the topic of ‘home’ circles around us, from well-meaning friends asking if we are going ‘home’ for Christmas to others we've just met asking if we'd ever move back ‘home’. My answer to those questions is always the same. I tell people that I consider myself as having two great loves of my life: the first, a freckled South African with dark hair and blue eyes; and the second, the ragged, cold, wet country of Scotland. Though with Scotland there was no fear that I found it utterly annoying like I sometimes do with the South African boy!
S
HOME SWEET HOME I fell in love with Scotland in a shopping mall, of all places. We’d visited a few times and I was interviewing for a job near Stirling, hoping to escape the south-east of England for somewhere with more green and fewer people. As I
“Th e palette is a s close to th e Scottish lan d sca pe a s I can get. ”
killed time waiting for my train, I wandered into the shopping centre. A two-storey window met me at the top of the escalator, which framed the view of the incredible Ochil Hills as they jutted out majestically from the drained land, or ‘carse’, around it. Anywhere that could offer up views like that in the most mundane of places, was somewhere I knew that I’d find home. SCOTTISH PALETTE Whenever the inevitable topic comes up about what inspires me in my designs, the answer is always the same. I see myself endlessly re-interpreting those and other hills, and the sky and the sea and lochs that surround me with my hook or needles and yarn. I scour stitch dictionaries to find a pattern the matches the swath of grass I want to recreate, or the way the clouds split the light of the sun just before it rains. Ripples and shell shapes feature heavily, making and remaking lines of mountains and sea. The colours are no different – the palette is just about as close to the Scottish landscape as I can get with yarns,
“I want to recreate the way the clouds split the light of the sun. ”
“I use the landscape to dye my own wool.” shifting subtly with the season. The blues and greys or the sky and water feature heavily, and that particular chartreuse green that the hills remain covered in most of the year, and the seaweed that lines the shore. As the years pass, simply recreating the colours isn't enough and I have started using ingredients I find in the landscape to dye my own yarn, metaphorically infusing every stitch with ‘home’. SHARING MY HOME I don't want to make make any grandiose statements about crochet design, but it is the form in which I can tell you about my love of this place I call ‘home’. I get to carry pieces of my corner of the world all around the country when we go out to shows, and I get to see that exact line of mountain, sea and sky recreated in countless other places
around the globe, reinterpreted again and again. I get to share ‘home’ with others. Sometimes I wonder if I will ever get tired of this place or if I will move on to some other source of inspiration. It’s possible, I suppose, to fall out of love like I fell in. But for now my goal is to simply become so much a part of it, that I’ll always be remembered as having belonged there. See what Kat’s been hooking lately on her blog at www.slugsontherefrigerator.com. You can also sign up to one of her crochet workshops to learn how to make exquisite pieces using natural yarns.
A look at my month I am co tantly i p ed by the colo and shap that s ound me in the Scott h lan cape, such th e golde od flow . I capt e th e unique ton with dy eated om nat e - the y n I've made h e dyed ing flag root, meado weet and nettl .
Festive fella Put this super sweet Santa in the centre of your seasonal decorations. Designed by Ilaria Caliri.
amigurumi SANTA A BIT TRICKY 4PLY WEIGHT
2.5MM HOOK
You’d better watch out – Santa Claus is coming to town with our fab amigurumi make. With a full-on moustache and beard any hipster would be proud of, he’ll add the cool to your Yule this year!
NOTES YOU WILL NEED Scheepjes Catona (100% Cotton, 50g/125m), 1 ball of Yarn A Scarlet (192) Q Scheepjes Catona (100% Cotton, 25g/62m), 1 ball of each: Yarn B Black Coffee (162) Yarn C Linen (505) Yarn D Cornelia Rose (256) Q Scheepjes Stone Washed (78% cotton, 22% acrylic, 50g/130m), 1 ball of Yarn E Moon stone (801) Q Scheepjes Lizzy (80% viscose, 20% polyester), 1 ball of Yarn F Gold (03) Q A 2.5mm (B/1 or C/2) hook Q A pair of safety eyes approx 9mm diameter Q Tapestry needle Q Stitch markers Q Pipe cleaners (optional) Q Plastic sheet such as a yoghurt lid (optional) Q Toy stuffing For yarn stockists contact Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com Q
MEASUREMENTS Doll measures 25cm (10in) tall excluding hat
The arms are worked first and then the Legs, Body and Head are worked in one piece from the Boots up, joining in the Arms as you go. Work using the amigurumi method in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. Change colour in the last yrh of the previous st. ARMS MAKE 2 With Yarn C, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Rounds 3-5 Dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 6 Change to Yarn E, ch2 (does not count as st), tr in same st, 2-tr cluster in each st around. [12 sts] Rounds 7-12 Change to Yarn A, dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 13 Dc2tog, dc in next 10 sts. [11 sts] Round 14 Dc in each st around. Round 15 Dc2tog, dc in next 9 sts. [10 sts] Round 16 Dc in each st around. Round 17 Dc2tog, dc in next 8 sts. [9 sts] Round 18 Dc in each st around. Insert a pipe cleaner into the arm and stuff. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
ABBREVIATIONS 2-tr cluster (yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook
Santa’s belt buckle is worked in gold yarn for some proper festive sparkle.
38 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
LEGS, BODY AND HEAD BOOTS With Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times [18 dc] Round 4 (partial) Dc in next st, htr in next st, 2tr in each of next 3 sts, htr in next st, dc in next st. [10 sts] Move stitch marker to the next st and treat as first st of round. Round 5 Working in BL, dc in each st around. [21 dc] Round 6 Dc in each st around. Round 7 Dc in next 13 sts, tr2tog 3 times, dc in next 2 sts. [18 sts] Round 8 Dc in next 12 sts, dc2tog, dc in next st, dc2tog, dc in next st. [16 sts] Rounds 9-13 Dc in each st around. [16 sts] Continue working dc until you reach the centre back of the boot (approx 6 sts). Cut shapes out of the plastic sheet to match the sole of the boot and insert into the boot then continue working the leg.
LEG MAKE 2 Round 14 Change to Yarn E, ch2 (does not count as st), working in BLs only, tr in same st, 2-tr cluster in each st around. [16 sts] Round 16 Change to Yarn A, (2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts) twice. [18 dc] Round 17 Dc in each st around. Round 18 (2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) 3 times. [21 dc] Round 19 (2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts) 3
amigurumi SANTA times. [24 dc] Fasten off. Weave in all ends. Make a second boot and leg, but do not fasten off. BODY Round 20 Continue working on the second Leg, dc in next 22 sts to reach the inner leg, starting at the inner leg of the first Leg, dc in next 24 sts, dc in next 2 sts of the second Leg, place the stitch marker into the last st. [48 dc] Round 21 (2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts) 6 times. [54 dc] Rounds 22-30 Dc in each st around. Continue working in dc until you reach the front centre of the Body, place the stitch marker, ss in next st. Continue working the bottom of the jacket in rows. Row 1 (RS) Ch1, working in FL, dc in each st across, turn. [54 dc] Rows 2-4 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [54 dc] Do not fasten off. Continue working on the Body. Ss in each Row end to get back to Round 30, turn. Round 31 (RS) Ch1, working in the remaining BL of Round 30, dc in each st around. [54 dc] Round 32 (2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts) 6 times. [60 dc] Rounds 33-37 Dc in each st around. Round 38 (Dc2tog, dc in next 8 sts) 6 times. [54 sts] Rounds 39-40 Dc in each st around. Round 41 (Dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts) 6 times. [48 sts]
Round 42 Dc in each st around. Round 43 (Dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts) 6 times. [42 sts] Flatten the body and place stitch markers for the position of the Arms, you need 16 sts for the front and 16 sts for the back of the body and 5 sts for each Arm. Add Arms. Round 45 Dc in each st across to first stitch marker (approx 8 sts), dc in next 5 sts inserting the hook through both the sts on the Body and the Arm, dc in next 16 sts, dc in next 5 sts inserting the hook through both the sts on the Body and the Arm, dc in each st to end of the round. [42 sts] Round 46 Working into the stitches on the Body and the remaining stitches on the Arms, dc in each st around, working 4 sts into each Arm and skipping the previous sts worked into the Arm. [40 sts] Round 47 (Dc2tog, dc in next 8 sts) 4 times. [36 sts] Stuff the Legs and Body and continue stuffing as you go. Round 48 (Dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 49 (Dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [24 sts] COLLAR Continue working the collar of the jacket. Make sure you are at the front centre of the Body, if not continue working in dc until you reach the front centre of the Body. Row 1 Ss in next st, ch1, in FL dc in each st around, turn. [24 dc] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [24 dc] Row 3 Ch1, (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times, turn. [30 dc]
Row 4 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [30 dc] Fasten off and weave in ends. HEAD Join Yarn C in BL of st at the back of the neck in Round 49. Round 50 Working into BL of Round 49, dc in each st around. [24 dc] Round 51-52 dc in each st around. Round 53 Working in FL, (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 dc] Round 54 (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 dc] Round 55 (2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) 6 times. [42 dc] Round 56 (2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts) 6 times. [48 dc] Round 57 (2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts) 6 times. [54 dc] Rounds 58-66 Dc in each st around. Round 67 (Dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts) 6 times. [48 dc] Round 68 (Dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts) 6 times. [42 dc] Insert the safety eyes between Rounds 61 and 62 approximately 12 stitches apart. Stuff the head and continue stuffing as you go. Round 69 (Dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts) 6 times. [36 dc] Round 70 (Dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts) 6 times. [30 dc] Round 71 (Dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [24 dc] Round 72 (Dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts) 6 times. [18 dc] Round 73 (Dc2tog, dc in next st) 6 times. [12 dc]
SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK DOUBLE CROCHET IN A SPIRAL
1 Make a foundation ring (see p89) and work the t-ch (1ch for dc). Now work 12 dc stitches into the ring, but do not join the last stitch and first stitch of this first round with a slip stitch.
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2 Instead, work the first dc stitch of the second round into the first stitch of the first round. To do this, insert the hook into the stitch, yrh, pull yarn through, yrh and pull the yarn through both loops.
3 You’ll now be working in a spiral. Continue to work more rounds of dc stitches in a spiral, according to your pattern instructions.
4 On the last round, after you’ve worked the last dc stitch, you’ll need to finish off the spiral with a slip stitch for a neat edge: insert the hook into the next stitch, yrh and pull through both loops.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 39
amigurumi SANTA Round 74 Dc2tog 6 times. [6 dc] Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Hook the nose and beard before you add Santa’s magnificent moustache.
BELT Using Yarn C, ch61. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across. [60 dc] Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the belt around the waist, just above the bottom of the jacket. BELT BUCKLE In Yarn F, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1, (Dc, tr) 4 times into the loop, ss to first dc to join. [8 sts] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the buckle on to the belt. JACKET BORDER Join Yarn E at the centre of the bottom edge of the Jacket, reverse dc around the bottom edge, fasten off. EYEBROWS MAKE 2 With Yarn E, ch4. Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the eyebrows above the eyes, slightly angled. NOSE With Yarn D, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 5dc into the loop. [5 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 dc] Round 3 dc2tog 5 times. [5 dc] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the nose between Rounds 60 and 61, between the eyes. BEARD With Yarn E, ch 2. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook, turn. [1 dc] Row 2 (RS) Ch1, working in BL, 3dc in first st, turn. [3 dc] Row 3 (WS) Ch1, working in FL, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc into the last st, turn. [5 dc] Row 4 Ch1, working in BL, 2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc into the last st, turn. [7 dc] Row 5 Ch1, working in FL, 2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc into the last st, turn. [9 dc] Row 6 Ch1, working in BL, (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 3 times. [12 dc] Row 7 Ch1, working in FL, (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 3 times. [15 dc] Row 8 Ch1, working in BL, (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) 3 times. [18 dc] Row 9 Ch1, working in FL, (2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) 3 times. [21 dc] Row 10 Ch1, working in BL, (2dc in next st, dc 40 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
in next 6 sts) 3 times. [24 dc] Row 11 Ch1, working in FL, dc in each st across. [24 dc] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. This piece is used as a base for securing the hair of the beard. Cut strands of Yarn E (approx 8 cm long). Fold in half and use the crochet hook to join a strand in the remaining loops of each stitch in all rows. Sew the beard, just under the nose. MOUSTACHE With Yarn E, ch 18. Row 1 Skip first ch, ss into each of next 2 ch, *dc in next ch, htr in next ch, 2tr in each of next 2 ch, htr in next ch, dc in next ch, ss in next ch; repeat from * once more, ss in next st, ch1, rotate to work along the other side of the foundation ch, ss in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, htr in next st, 2tr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next st, ss in next st, dc in next st, htr in next st, 2tr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next 2 sts, ss in next 2 sts. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the Moustache on the Beard, under the Nose. HAT With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) twice. [8 dc] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) twice. [10 dc] Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) twice. [12 dc]
Round 5 (2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) twice. [14 dc] Round 6 (2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts) twice. [16 dc] Round 7 (2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts) twice. [18 dc] Round 8 (2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts) twice. [20 dc] Round 9 (2dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts) twice. [22 dc] Round 10 (2dc in next st, dc in next 10 sts) twice. [24 dc] Round 11 Dc in each st around. Round 12 (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 dc] Round 13 Dc in each st around. Round 14 (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) 6 times [36 dc] Round 15 Dc in each st around. Round 16 (2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) 6 times [42 dc] Round 17 Dc in each st around. Round 18 (2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts) 6 times [48 dc] Round 19 Dc in each st around. Round 20 (2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts) 6 times [54 dc] Round 21 Dc in each st around. Change to Yarn E. Round 22 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in eac hst around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [54 tr] Fasten off and weave in ends. POMPOM With Yarn E, make a 2.5cm (1in) pompom and sew it to the tip of the hat.
NEW ISSUE!
Inspired by the artists of our homeland, Scheepjes brings you YARN 4 – The Dutch Masters. Taking inspiration from Van Gogh, Vermeer, Rembrandt and Mondrian, the bookazine is a complete work of art, providing inspiration on every page.
YARN is a biannual bookazine produced by Scheepjes yarns. A combination of a look book, a pattern book and a notebook, the beautiful projects are stitched together with care and attention in this latest masterpiece. Available via Scheepjes retailers and Amazon.co.uk
WWW.SCHEEPJES.COM
Psst
fab o o l o A r e d! e v i t f in
.S
C OC
G.CO
LACY TOP
After dinner mint A beautifully delicate jumper with pretty lace detailing that’s just perfect for Christmas Day. By Ilaria Caliri.
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WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 43
LACY TOP This exquisite sweater will be the star of your wardrobe this winter. Layer over a long-line cami in a contrasting colour with your jeans, or pop it over a slip dress, and pair with block heels and you’ll have an instant hit. Go party.
A BIT TRICKY 4PLY WEIGHT
3MM HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
NOTES
Bergère de France Calinou (75% acrylic, 25% wool, 50g/185m) in Limonade (30) See table for measurements and yarn quantities Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook For yarn stockists contact Bergère de France www.hobbycraft.co.uk
This sweater is worked top down in one piece to the base of the armholes, then divided for Body and Sleeves. The neckband is added at the end. Replace the first tr of each round with a ch-3 turning ch. The stitch pattern for the front lace panel is written out first, and the instructions start with the Yoke.
Q
TENSION
FRONT LACE PANEL PATTERN
20 sts and 11 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over treble crochet using 3mm hook
Stitch pattern is a multiple of 12 sts + 1, and is worked over central 37 sts of Front. Round 1 Dc in next st, (ch5, skip 5 sts, 3tr in next st, ch5, skip 5 sts, dc in next st) 3 times. Round 2 Tr in next st, (ch3, 3tr in next tr, tr in next st, 3tr in next st, ch3, tr in next dc) 3 times. Round 3 Tr in next st, (3tr in next tr, tr in next 5 sts, 3tr in next st, ch1) repeat twice, 3tr in next tr, tr in next 5 sts, 3tr in next st, tr in next tr. Round 4 2tr in next st, (ch5, skip 5 sts, dc in next st, ch5, 3tr in next ch1-sp) twice, ch5, skip 5 sts, dc in next st, ch5, skip 5 sts, 2tr in next st. Round 5 Tr in next st, (3tr in next st, ch3, tr in next dc, ch3, 3tr in next tr, tr in next st) 3 times. Round 6 Tr in next 3 sts, 3tr in next st, ch1, (3tr in first tr of next 3-tr group, tr in next 5
ABBREVIATIONS Foundation Treble (Ftr) Work a treble stitch as usual, but after the first (insert hook, yrh and pull through), work an extra ch1 before completing the stitch. The next st is worked into this extra ch1. To bridge a gap between sts, as in this pattern, add the extra ch1 to the stitch before the gap, then work the number of foundation sts stated. On the last ftr, replace the extra ch1 with a ss into the top of the first st on the other side of the gap. For a full list, see page 92
SIZE TO FIT BUST b
SLEEVE LENGTH a
Width a: 41 (44: 48: 50.5: 53.5)cm 16 (17: 18 : 20: 21)in Sleeve Length b: 43cm 17in Length c: 55 (55: 55: 58: 58)cm 21 (21 : 21 : 22 : 22 )in 44 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
LENGTH YARN
SWEATER
YOKE Ch122 (126: 134: 146: 150), ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) *Tr in next 18 (18: 18: 20: 18) ch, ch1, tr in next 43 (45: 49: 53: 57) ch for Front, ch1; repeat from *, ss to top of beg ch-3. [122 (126: 134: 146: 150) tr + 4 ch] Round 2 2tr in first st, tr in each st to next ch-1 sp for first Sleeve, (tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, tr in next 3 (4: 6: 8: 10) sts, place a st marker in last tr, follow Lace Panel Pattern over the next 37 sts, tr in next 3 (4: 6: 8: 10) sts, placing a st marker in first tr (Front complete), (tr, ch1, tr) in ch1-sp, tr in each st to next ch-1 sp for second Sleeve, (tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, tr in each st to next ch-1 sp for Back, tr in ch-1 sp, ch1, ss to top of beg ch-3. [130 (134: 142: 154: 158) tr + 4 ch] Continue working the next round of Lace Panel Pattern over the 37 sts between markers in all following rounds. Move markers up each round. Round 3 2tr in first st, tr in each tr around working (tr, ch1, tr) in each of first 3 ch-sps and 1 tr in last ch-sp, ss to top of beg ch-3. [8 sts inc each round: 138 (142: 150: 162: 164) tr + 4 ch after Round 3. Repeat Round 3 a further 14 (16: 17: 18: 19) times. [250 (270: 286: 306: 318) tr + 4 ch] Next round 2tr in first st, tr in each tr around working 2tr in each of first 3 ch-sps and 1 tr in last ch-sp, ss to top of beg ch-3, do not fasten off. [18 (20: 21: 22: 23) rounds and 258 (278: 294: 314: 326) sts]
8
10
12
14
16
91
97
102
81
86
in
32
34
36
38
40
cm
82
88
96
101
107
40
42
cm
c
ACTUAL BUST
sts, 3tr in next st, ch1) twice, 3tr in first tr of next 3-tr group, tr in next 3 sts. Rounds 1-6 set pattern.
in
32
34
37
cm
43
43
43
43
43
in
17
17
17
17
17
cm in 50g
55
55
55
58
58
21
21
21
22
22
7
7
7
8
9
To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.
LACY TOP DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES AND BODY Next round (Divide round) Ch3 (counts as first ftr), 7 (7: 10: 10: 10) ftr for underarm, working the first of these ftr in the ch at the base of the beg ch-3, skip 52 (56: 58: 62: 62) sts for first Sleeve, tr in next 20 (23: 26: 29: 32) sts, Lace Panel Pattern over next 37 sts, tr in next 20 (23: 26: 29: 32) sts (Front complete), 8 (8: 10: 10: 10) ftr for underarm, skip 52 (56: 58: 62: 62) sts, tr in next 77 (83: 89: 95: 101) sts for Back, ss to top of beg ch-3. [170 (182: 198: 210: 222) working sts] Continue working in tr on these 170 (182: 198: 210: 222) sts for a further 39 (37: 36: 38: 37) rounds, following the Lace Panel Pattern over the central 37 sts on the Front. The last of these rows will be the last row of the Lace Panel Pattern. Next round Ch3, tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. Next round Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st around, ss to first dc.
central 13 sts of the Sleeve, at the same time as you are working the decrease pattern described below. The Sleeve Lace Panel Pattern is given below underneath the decreasing instructions. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [60 (64: 68: 72: 72) sts] Repeat Round 1 a further 5 (1: 9: 6: 3) times. Next round (Decrease round) Ch3, tr2tog, tr in each st to last 3 sts, tr2tog, tr in last st, ss to top of beg ch-3. [2 sts decreased; 58 (62: 66: 70: 70) sts] Work 3 (3: 2: 2: 2) more rounds as Round 1. Repeat the last 4 (4: 3: 3: 3) rounds a further 9 (10: 11: 12: 13) times. [40 (42: 44: 46: 44) sts] Next round Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Rounds 48 - 50 Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), (dc in next st, ch4, skip 4 sts) repeat around to last 0 (2: 4: 1: 4) sts, ch0 (2: 4: 1: 4), skip remaining sts, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
BORDER Rounds 1-3 Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc in next st, ch4, skip 4 sts) repeat around to last 0 (2: 3: 0: 2) sts, ch0 (2: 3: 0: 2), skip remaining sts, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
SLEEVES Continuing from the Divide round, rejoin the yarn at the centre of the underarm. If you wish to include it, the Sleeve Lace Panel pattern is 3 repeats of the 6-round pattern from Rounds 28 to 45 of the Sleeve. You will need to work this over the
The lace pattern continues on the sleeves. For a three-quarter sleeve, stop at two repeats.
skip next tr, 3tr in next tr, tr in next 3 sts.
SLEEVE PANEL PATTERN Round 1 Dc in next st, ch5, skip 5 sts, 3tr in next st, ch5, skip 5 sts, dc in next st. Round 2 Tr in next st, ch3, 3tr in next tr, tr in next st, 3tr in next tr, ch3, tr in next dc. Round 3 Tr in next st, 3tr in next tr, tr in next 5 sts, 3tr in next tr, tr in next tr st of previous round. Round 4 2tr in next st, ch5, skip 5 sts, dc in next st, ch5, skip 5 sts, 2tr in next st. Round 5 Tr in next st, 3tr in next st, ch3, tr in next dc, ch3, 3tr in next tr, tr in next st. Round 6 Tr in next 3 sts, 3tr in next st, ch1,
Front chart
NECKBAND Join the yarn between the Back and the Right Sleeve. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st around, ss to first dc. [122 (126: 134: 146: 150) sts] Rounds 2-4 Ch1, working in opposite side of foundation ch; *dc in 18 (18: 18: 20: 18) sts above Sleeve, (ch4, skip 4 sts, dc in next st) 8 (9: 9: 10: 11) times, ch3 (0: 4: 3: 2), skip 3 (0: 4: 3: 2) sts; rep from *, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Key
Sleeve chart
Chain (ch) Double crochet (dc) Treble crochet (tr) 6
6
5
5
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4 3
2
2
1
1
Repeat
3
Repeat
4
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Embellish an outfit
Ho ho ho! Give a plain jumper a festive makeover with super Santa motifs. By Sara Huntington.
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Embellish an outfit A BIT TRICKY 4PLY
3MM HOOK
YOU WILL NEED Yarn and Colors Must-Have (100% cotton, 50g/125m), 1 ball of each: White (001) Peach (042) Cardinal (031) Soil (028) Q A 3mm (US C/2) hook Q Tapestry needle For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
Get on board with the Christmas jumper action and show some serious love for our favourite bearded man in a red suit. The Santa motif on Sara’s customisation project works like a dream emblazoning a plain top, or just hook one motif if you’re short on time. No need to stop at jumpers – cards, garlands and more await.
Q
MEASUREMENT Each motif measures 5.5x9cm (2 x3 in)
TENSION Tension is not critical for this project
ABBREVIATIONS 4-tr cluster (yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 4 times, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 5 loops on hook For a full list, see page 92
FACE Using White, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), 15dtr into loop, change to Peach, 8dtr into loop, change to White, ss into top of beg ch-4 to join. [24 dtr] Fasten off Peach. Round 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), (ch3, dc into next st) 16 times, dc in last 7 sts, ss in first dc to join, turn. Row 3 (WS) Ch1, dc in each of next 6 sts, ss in next st, fasten off leaving remaining sts unworked, turn. Fasten off. HAT Row 4 (RS) Join Cardinal in first dc, ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in next st, 2tr in next st, tr in each of last 3 sts, turn. [7 tr] Row 5 (WS) Ch3, tr2tog, tr in next st, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. [5 sts] Row 6 (RS) Ch3, tr3tog, tr in last st. Fasten off. BOBBLE With RS facing, join White to the last st of Row 6 at top of Hat, ch3, 4-tr cluster into same st. Fasten off.
Give your Santa a rosy red nose slightly above the centre of the magic loop on his face.
TO FINISH Using a tapestry needle and Soil, embroider eyes and eyebrows onto the face just underneath the Hat. Using Cardinal, embroider a nose slightly above the centre point of the magic loop on the face. Weave in all ends. Block each motif before sewing to your chosen garment.
SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO MAKE A DOUBLE TREBLE
1 To make a double treble crochet stitch, yrh twice and insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row. Yrh and draw through the stitch only (4 loops on hook).
48 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
2 Yrh and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).
3 Yrh and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops only (2 loops on hook).
4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. There’s your double treble made and you’ll have one loop left on your hook ready to do the next stitch.
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Win the y n to make the winning project! Ent by voting f yo favo ite on I tagram #hooktohook
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hook to hook
Festive teatime
We challenged two designers to come up with a fab design, each using the same yarn… which is your fave?
Claire Guy “I was really excited to take part in this challenge, especially as it’s Christmas themed, because it’s my absolute favourite time of year. I definitely found it a challenge because I had to work in DK and I usually work in chunky and super chunky yarn. I chose to do an elf hat because what could be more Christmassy?! I also make a lot of hats (it’s kinda my thing, if you will) and any chance I get to make a pompom, I’m all over it!” For more from Claire, find her online at www.etsy.com/shop/CraftyClarenceShop
Tuula Kyrölä “This teapot cosy challenge combined three of my loves: crochet, tea and Christmas. I’ve always loved creating decorations. For years I sold Christmasrelated crochet at craft fairs and now I have a blog just for Christmas designs. The inspiration behind the tea cosy was thinking back to when my children were small and I used to find new ways of hiding little surprises every morning in the weeks before Christmas. Pockets in a tea cosy are ideal for that!” Tuula's Christmas blog is at www.knit-crochet-christmas.com
Made in association with Designer Yarns. For stockists contact www.designeryarns.uk.com 01535 664222
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hook to hook
Psst f M t be time e! pi ce in anoth m
From left: Claire’s tea cosy is a splendid choice for your Christmas morning cuppa; as you can see from her sketchbook, Claire didn't change much from her initial idea for her festive cosy – as she says, hats are ‘her thing’; finish off with a squooshy pompom. (Tea cosy or hat? You choose.)
ELF HAT TEA COSY Claire Guy's elf-themed design makes a cheerful tea cosy for your festive gettogethers. And be honest… we know you won't be able to resist trying it on too! Q DY Choice Basics DK (100% acrylic, 100g/300m) 1 ball of each: Leaf Green (25), Red (10), Grey (15), White (1) Q A 5.5mm (I/9) hook Q An 8.5cm pompom maker
TENSION 16 sts and 13 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over (dc, tr) using a 5.5mm hook
MEASUREMENTS To fit an average size teapot, circumference 44cm (17 in)
CROWN Round 1 Using 2 strands of Red, join yarn in any row end, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each row end around, ss to first dc to join. [64 dc] The Hat is now split into Front and Back to create slits for the spout and handle.
FRONT Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in first st, tr in next st, (dc in next st, tr in next st) 7 times, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [32 sts] Rows 2-4 Ch1, dc in first st, tr in next st, (dc in next st, tr in next st) 15 times, turn, fasten off. Rows 5-8 Join Grey in first st, ch1, dc in first st, tr in next st, (dc in next st, tr in next st) 15 times, turn, fasten off.
HAT
BACK
BRIM
Rejoin Red in first unworked st of Round 1. Repeat Rows 1-8 of Front. Round 9 Join Red in first st of Front, ch1, dc in first st, tr in next st, (dc in next st, tr in next st) across to end of Front, continue across Back, ss to first dc to join in the round. [64 sts] Round 10 Ch3 (counts as tr), dc in next st, (tr in next st, dc in next st) around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join.
Using 2 strands of Leaf Green, ch10, turn. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [9 dc] Rows 2-64 Working in the BL, ch1, dc in each dc across, turn. Fold the band and work a ss seam to join the first and last rows to create a loop. Fasten off. 52 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Round 11 Ch1, dc in first st, tr in next st, (dc in next st, tr in next st) around, ss to first dc to join. Round 12 Repeat Round 10, fasten off. Round 13 Join Grey in first st, repeat Round 11. [64 sts] Round 14 Ch3 (counts as tr), dc in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, *tr2tog, dc2tog, (tr in next st, dc in next st) 3 times; repeat from * 5 more times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [52 sts] Round 15 Repeat Round 11. Round 16 Repeat Round 10, fasten off. Round 17 Join Red in first st, repeat Round 11. Round 18 Ch3 (counts as tr), dc in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, *tr2tog, dc2tog, (tr in next st, dc in next st) twice; repeat from * 5 more times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [40 sts] Round 19 Repeat Round 11. Round 20 Repeat Round 10, fasten off. Round 21 Join Grey in first st, repeat Round 11. Round 22 Ch3 (counts as tr), dc in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, *tr2tog, dc2tog, (tr in next st, dc in next st) 4 times; repeat from * twice more, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [34 sts] Round 23 Repeat Round 11. Round 24 Repeat Round 10, fasten off.
hook to hook
Left: Tuula’s innovative design incorporates an Advent calendar-style pocket on each side of the cosy; Tuula sketched out her design first – all the main elements are there, from the grey crocheted ribbon on the pocket to the bow on top; leave a long tail for sewing on the present.
Round 25 Join Red in first st, repeat Round 11. Round 26 Ch3 (counts as tr), dc in next st, *tr2tog, dc2tog, (tr in next st, dc in next st) twice; repeat from * 3 more times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [26 sts] Round 27 Repeat Round 11. Round 28 Repeat Round 10, fasten off. Round 29 Join Grey in first st, repeat Round 11. Round 30 Ch3 (counts as tr), dc in next st, *tr2tog, dc2tog, tr in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 3 more times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [18 sts] Round 31 Repeat Round 11. Round 32 Repeat Round 10, fasten off. Round 33 Join Red in first st, repeat Round 11. Round 34 Ch3 (counts as tr), *dc in next st, tr2tog, dc2tog, tr in next st; repeat from * twice more, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [12 sts] Round 35 Repeat Round 11. Round 36 Repeat Round 10, fasten off leaving a long tail. Weave tail through all stitches in Round 36 and pull tight. POMPOM Using White yarn, make a pompom and sew to the top of the elf hat.
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Pocket teapot cosy Tuula Kyrols' design is nice and easy to hook up and sew together – in front of a bit of festive TV perhaps? Q DY Choice Basics DK (100% acrylic, 100g/300m) 1 ball of each: Leaf Green (25), Red (10), Grey (15), White (1) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook
FRONT Row 3 Ch3, tr in next 33 sts, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [34 sts] Rows 4-7 Ch3, tr in each st across, turn. [34 sts] Row 8 Ch3, 9 tr, tr2tog, 10 tr, tr2tog, 10 tr, turn. [32 sts] Row 9 Ch3, 9 tr, tr2tog, 8 tr, tr2tog, 10 tr, turn. [30 sts] Row 10 Ch3, 9 tr, tr2tog, 6 tr, tr2tog, 10 tr. Fasten off. [28 sts]
TENSION 15 sts and 8 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over tr using a 4.5mm hook
MEASUREMENTS To fit an average size teapot, circumference 48cm (19in)
ABBREVIATIONS Picot Ch2, ss into second st from hook BASE With Green, ch76, ss to first ch to join in a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in each ch around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [76 tr] Round 2 (RS) Ch3, tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [76 tr] Each side is worked separately in Rows to create room for the spout and handle.
BACK With RS facing, join Green in fifth unworked st of Round 2. Rows 3-9 Work as Rows 3-9 of Front. Row 10 (WS) Ch3, dtr in top of last tr in Row 10 of Front, working into Row 9 of Back, 9 tr, tr2tog, 6 tr, tr2tog, 10tr, ch3, ss into first st of Row 10 to join in the Round, turn. Round 11 (RS) Ch3, 3tr, tr2tog, (5tr, tr2tog) 3 times, tr in next tr, 3tr in sp created by dtr, tr in next tr, tr2tog, (5tr, tr2tog) 3 times, 4tr, 2tr in next ch-3 sp, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [54 sts] Round 12 Ch3 ,3tr, tr2tog, (4tr, tr2tog) 8 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [45 sts] Round 13 Ch3, 2tr, tr2tog, (3tr, tr2tog) 8 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [36 sts] Round 14 Ch3, tr, tr2tog, (2tr, tr2tog) 8 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [27 sts] WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 53
hook to hook
Psst ch Pop a f tive eat in ea eone pocket f a lucky som
From left: the bow on the top is simply a band of white stitching edged with red which, when passed through the red bow band, makes a bow shape; for the two present pockets you'll need to make six of the grey and white ribbon pieces in total, working them in three different lengths.
Round 15 Ch3, tr2tog, (tr, tr2tog) 8 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [18 sts] Round 16 Ch2 (does not count as st), tr in next st, tr2tog 8 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [9 sts] Round 17 Ch2 (does not count as st), tr2tog, tr3tog twice, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [3 sts] Fasten off. PRESENTS MAKE 2 Using Red, ch24. Row 1 Tr in 4th ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [22 tr] Rows 2-7 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in each st across, turn. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. RIBBONS MAKE 6: 2 OF EACH Ribbons are worked the same way but in different lengths. Ribbon A: Using White, 23fdc. Fasten off. Join Grey into first st, ch 1, ss into next st, picot, *2 ss, picot*; repeat from * to * both sides of fdc band, picot also at each end of band. Ribbon B: Repeat but begin with 20fdc. Ribbon C: Repeat but begin with 10fdc. BOW Using White, ch 13. 54 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Rows 1-26 Ch 3 (counts as tr), 12 tr, turn Row 27 Fold the piece into two and bring together the two ends of the piece. Join by making a seam using ss. Fasten off.
EDGING Join Red into the first stitch after the join, ch 1, ss into next st, picot, *2 ss, picot*.; repeat from * to * to the end. Make the other edge the same. BAND FOR BOW Using Red, ch 16. Rows 1-5 Ch 1, 16 dc, turn. Row 6 Fold the piece in two and bring the two ends together. Join by making a seam using ss. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the band to the base.
TO MAKE UP Sew a pocket into the middle of each side of the base. Sew ribbon B horizontally across the middle of the pocket. Only sew at both ends. Sew ribbon A vertically across the middle of the pocket. Sew at the bottom and top of the pocket. The top part of the ribbon is for tying. Sew one end of ribbon C into the base above the pocket, to be used for tying. Repeat for the other pocket. Sew half of the bow band into the top of the base, leaving the ss seam under. Pass the bow through the band, leaving the ss seam inside the band. Arrange bow folds evenly. Weave in all ends. For stockist details contact Designer Yarns www.designeryarns.uk.com or call 01535 664222.
DY CHOICE BASICS DK If you're looking for a good, practical yarn, suitable for everyday wear and tear, DY Choice Basics DK is the perfect choice. Made from 100% acrylic, it is machine washable so ideal for all your jumpers and cardis, and a fantastic yarn for children's clothes and household accessories. DY Choice comes in an extensive range of 30 scrumptious colours, from Lavender, Peach and Electric Pink to the Christmas classics Red and Leaf Green shades, as shown here.
The Knitting Room covers beginners to advanced and provides additional needs for our children’s club, with highly skilled tutors in a supportive environment. We have built up a large interactive community of crafters, both in the store and on Facebook. The shop offers a wide range of yarns, packs and accessories.
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Crochet Cable Aran Blanket Download here • theknittingroom.ie
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Hooked on accessories The ultimate gift for a crocheter? www.how-store.com £12
Edit ’s h Potty about ceramics Much merriment Give yourself a monthly lift with a subscription box. www.littleboxofcrochet.co.uk
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Go large! Luxuriate with a giant Palm Blanket Crochet Kit. www.woolcouture company.com from £45
Delicate floral patterns adorn Emily Cross’ range of yarn bowls. www.emxceramics.com £POA
Christmas wishlist Choose your faves for your list for Santa, or simply post-it what you want and leave lying around for less hooky family members to take the hint...
Llama karma Gorgeous project bags to organise your stash. www. kettleyarnco.co.uk £26
Triple treat A pretty bundle of 3 skeins of 100% cashmere. www. loopknittingshop.com £94
Blissed out Aymara is a luscious yarn made of baby alpaca in signature chic tones. www.debbieblissonline.co.uk £7.29
D ei H e!
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Mini marvels
Jane Crowfoot’s pattern has been beautifully reimagined by Lucia Dunn. www.woolwarehouse.co.uk £28.99
Catona minis are the perfect stocking filler! Gorgeous colours for your mini makes. www.scheepjes.com 99p each
Your new bible Go to your fave bookshop or Amazon for Lily’s best tips. £11
Wrists wrapped up Make these super warmers with Paintbox Yarns Chunky Pots. www.paintboxyarns. com £6.50
o T m F e! Breezy boho Go retro with WatG’s Dot Cotton Sweater. www.wooland thegang.com
from £90 Rainbow brights Spice up your crochet with KoruClayStudio on Etsy £9
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PENGUIN HAT
y z a r c ’ n i p Go flip Take your brood on a trip (real or imaginary!) to the zoo with a super cute beanie hat by Nicki Trench.
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penguin hat EASY PEASY DK, ARAN WEIGHT
3.5MM 5MM
This is a simple little hat you can make for kids in an evening or a weekend. So, it’s great for new crocheters. And just so adorable. Little children will love it – this could be the hat they’ll actually wear.
NOTES YOU WILL NEED Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran (55% merino wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere, 50g/90m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Black (300) Yarn B White (025) Q Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere, 50g/125m), 1 ball of Yarn C Orange (092) Q A small amount of black chunky yarn for eyes Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook For yarn stockists contact Designer Yarns 01535 664222 www.designeryarns.uk.com Q
TENSION 15 sts and 11 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over htr using Yarn A or B and a 5mm hook
MEASUREMENTS To fit age 6-24 months, approx 40.5-46cm (16-18in) circumference, 16.5cm (6 in) high
The Hat and Beak are worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. The Face is worked in rows. HAT Round 1 Using Yarn A and a 5mm hook, ch2, 8htr in second ch from hook. [8 sts] Round 2 2htr in each st. [16 sts] Round 3 *1htr in next st, 2htr in next st; rep from * around. [24 sts] Round 4 *1htr in each of next 2 sts, 2htr in next st; rep from * around. [32 sts] Round 5 *1htr in each of next 3 sts, 2htr in next st; rep from * around. [40 sts] Round 6 *1htr in each of next 4 sts, 2htr in next st; rep from * around. [48 sts] Round 7 *1htr in each of next 5 sts, 2htr in next st; rep from * around. [56 sts] Round 8 *1htr in each of next 6 sts, 2htr in next st; rep from * around. [64 sts] Rounds 9-19 1htr in each st around, or until work measures approx 16.5cm (6in). [64 sts] Round 20 1dc in each st around to last st, ss in last st. Fasten off.
Position the facial features carefully, following the photo, for the best results.
sts, 1htr in each of next 4 sts, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, 1htr in each of next 4 sts, 1tr in each of next 4 sts, 1htr in each of next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 4 sts, turn. [30 sts] Row 12 Ch1, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, 1htr in each of next 2 sts, 1tr in next st, 2tr in each of next 4 sts, 1tr in each of next 2 sts, 1htr in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1htr in each of next 2 sts, 1tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in each of next 4 sts, 1tr in next st, 1htr in each of next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, turn. [37 sts] Do not fasten off.
EDGING RS Rotate to work along bottom of Face working into row ends, ch1, work 25dc evenly along bottom edge. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
ABBREVIATIONS Find this cute hat, and others too, in Crocheted Animal Hats by Nicki Trench (£12.99, published by Ryland, Peters & Small)
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FACE Row 1 (RS) Using Yarn B and a 5mm hook, ch2, 3dc in second ch from hook. [3 sts] Row 2 Ch1, 2dc in each st, turn. [6 sts] Row 3 Ch1, *1dc in next st, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. [9 sts] Row 4 Ch1, *1dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. [12 sts] Row 5 Ch1, *1dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. [15 sts] Row 6 Ch1, *1dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. [18 sts] Row 7 Ch1, *1dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. [21 sts] Row 8 Ch1, *1dc in each of next 6 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. [24 sts] Row 9 Ch1, *1dc in each of next 7 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. [27 sts] Row 10 Ch1, *1dc in each of next 8 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. [30 sts] Row 11 Ch1, 1dc in each of next 4 sts, 1htr in each of next 2 sts, 1tr in each of next 4
Position Face on front of Hat, with straight edge of Face along bottom edge of Hat. Pin and sew in place using long tail.
EYES Using chunky black yarn, embroider eyes in satin stitch using the image as a guide.
BEAK Round 1 Using Yarn C and a 3.5mm hook, leaving a long tail, ch2, 6dc in second ch from hook. Round 2 2dc in each st. [12 sts] Rounds 3-6 1dc in each st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. TO MAKE UP Using starting tail of Beak, weave around stitches to close hole in Round 1. Use long tail to sew nose onto Face approx 3 rows from top edge.
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GOOD READ “Very often a colour palette will be my starting point.”
CROCHET EVERY DAY We chat to Hannah Cross about life as a full-time designer. annah Cross has been one of our go-to designers right from the early days of Simply Crochet magazine. With a mind buzzing with sumptuous designs in irresistibly colourways, she’s become a vital part of our creative team. It all came about thanks to a chance connection. “A local lady found me on Etsy years ago and asked me to make some items for her independent makers’ shop that she owned,” Hannah remembers. “She then recommended me to Simply Crochet as the magazine was just starting out. I came along to meet the team and initially, I thought I might be asked to make samples for the photography. It never entered my head that anyone would want me to design! I came up with some little jam jar covers for issue two
H
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and have been lucky enough to be in nearly every issue since then!” Hannah first discovered crochet in her mid-20s after having an operation on her knee. “I couldn’t walk for a few weeks,” she says. “I’m not very good at sitting still so I asked my mum to teach me to crochet.” BEAUTIFUL BLANKETS At the time, Hannah had lots of friends and family expecting babies, setting the tone for her crochet output. “I made loads of blankets and they are still my favourite thing to design and make,” she says. “I have got better though – I made my first blanket entirely with the stitches back to front without realising!” Creating her own crochet patterns came about more by default than intention.
“However hard I try, I’m not very good at following instructions,” she admits. It was only a matter of time before Hannah started ignoring the crochet patterns she was following and coming up with her own instead. “It wasn’t a conscious decision to start designing, it just happened naturally.” Before long, Hannah felt ready to share her original crochet patterns with the world, and she began to wonder how best to do that. “A friend of mine was selling handmade knickers on Etsy and knew I had started designing crochet patterns so suggested I open a shop to see what would happen,” says Hannah. “It was such great advice, as it was successful really quickly!” Hannah named her new brand HanJan, taking the first part of her own name, and
GOOD READ
the first part of her mum Janet’s name. “I figured I should give her credit, seeing as I wouldn’t be able to crochet if it hadn’t been for her!” She opened her next store on Craftsy, followed swiftly by a shop on Ravelry. “I now sell on LoveCrochet and The Makerist too. It’s quite something to keep them all up-to-date and in order!” The major challenges of this include the planning, formatting, checking, listing and maintaining of the patterns in all her stores. “I absolutely love designing and would happily spend every day concocting new creations, but I have to be strict with myself and get them out there.” All sorts of things inspire Hannah in her creations. “Very often a colour palette will be my starting point, especially with blankets,” she says. “Or sometimes it will be a new stitch pattern or texture that I try out, and the rest builds from there.” With a taste for designs with a hint of the retro and classic about them, it’s something of a surprise to Hannah that she’s currently on-trend. “I’ve never been one for following fads – I always feel I’m a bit behind the crowd!” EMBRACING NEW CHALLENGES The pleasure of running her own business never ceases to make Hannah smile. “HanJan has brought me into a world I didn’t know existed,” she says. “I’ve not only designed things I never thought I would or could, but I’ve built my own website, learned how to do accounts, worked with some amazing people and made loads of wonderful friends too. It is much more than designing now, it’s about the community it’s led me to.” Her latest challenge is of an altogether noisier and wrigglier variety, as Hannah recently gave birth to a baby boy. So how does she manage to fit it all in around having a newborn to wrangle? “I’m not really sure, Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
and that’s the honest answer!” she exclaims. “I suppose it’s a good job I love being busy but Elliot is a wonderfully contented baby, too, so that really helps. I also have the most amazing husband who supports me every step of the way.” With baby-friendly makes high on the agenda, Hannah is currently favouring super-soft yarns. “I just love Sublime yarns at the moment, especially for baby blankets,” she says. She’s also begun mastering tapestry crochet. “I’m just discovering the possibilities of this colourwork technique – it’s really quite addictive!” Part of Hannah’s success is down to her willingness to give pretty much anything a try, when it comes to crochet. “I firmly believe that everyone needs to make mistakes and have disasters to make them a better crafter,” she says, then adds with a grin: “Well, that’s my excuse anyway.”
it’s something really repetitive and I’ve got into the rhythm, then I can happily sit in the garden or take it to a coffee shop, and I always take a few projects on holiday with me. If it’s a technical or fiddly design that requires more brainpower or physical space, then I sit at my desk – aka the dining table.” She has plenty to look forward to: “I’m so excited for the future! HanJan keeps coming up with amazing opportunities. I’ve got lots of magazine commissions in the pipeline and I’m also busy with more blankets to add to my free Yarn Stash series; I’m working with a company to design some crochet gift packs due for release soon, I’ve always got a pile of my own designs on the go and I’m a busy bee on social media.” She pauses, then adds brightly: “And, of course, there’s the endless washing and dirty nappies.” It’s the latest chapter in a very happy life. “Aside from the fact it enables you to make beautiful things, crochet has pushed me to be braver than I ever thought I was, to start a business, to believe in myself; it has given me new friends and reunited me with old ones. It gives me joy, peace, calm, stress and constant challenge – and that’s what I love about it.”
“EVERYONE NEEDS TO MAKE MISTAKES AND HAVE DISASTERS TO MAKE THEM A BETTER CRAFTER.”
ANYWHERE AND EVERYWHERE When it comes to settling down to work on new designs, Hannah is impressively adaptable. “I work absolutely anywhere I can on my designs, but it very much depends what the project is and how far along I am,” she says. “If
Written by Judy Darley
A few of her favourite things When Hannah puts down her crochet hook…
“Our favourite thing as a family is to pop the baby in his sling and venture out into the countryside with the dog. I’ve always been musical so I sing when I can. I also love to garden and since finishing our house renovation, we have more time for it. I’ve also discovered a new-found love of coffee-and-cake dates since having a baby!” You can find more of Hannah’s crochet creations online at www.hanjancrochet.com and on Instagram she’s @hanjancrochet
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am hl am hl am hl am hl
Xmas Countdown
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Your essential guide for festive crochet shopping, from trusted suppliers!
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FINE FETTLE FIBRES 01670 600001 finefettlefibres.uk
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THE KNITTERS ATTIC
COTTON POD
/theknittersattic theknittersattic.co.uk
/cottonpod cottonpod
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MRS JOHNSONS EMPORIUM mrsjohnsonsemporium.co.uk /johnsons.wool.and.haberdashery
WOOLY WOTNOTS 01603 928787 woolywotnots.co.uk
WOOLLY MAHOOSIVE @woollymahoosive woollymahoosive
1. Fine Fettle Fibres: An independent retailer based in Felton, Northumberland, offering the best in British and Fair Trade yarns in natural fibres. Knitting classes and workshops available for all levels of experience. facebook.com/finefettlefibres. 2. The Knitters Attic: The Knitters Attic have an array of simply scrumptious gift collections, hooks and yarn. We’d love to make a bespoke gift box for you! theknittersattic.co.uk. 3. Cotton Pod: Get into the Festive spirit with our Christmas Crochet Kits and patterns. We also stock DROPS yarn, accessories and haberdashery. 10% off code: SCTREAT10. cottonpod.co.uk. 4. Mrs Johnsons Emporium: Step back in time to this hidden gem filled with a treasure of wool and haberdashery. Staffed by happy, crafty people who are enthusiastic about wool, materials, patterns and luscious things. 01253 404550. 5. Wooly Wotnots: We are East Anglia’s largest stockist of King Cole yarns, patterns and accessories. Exclusive hand knits from premature to 2 years. woolywotnots.co.uk. 6. Woolly Mahoosive: Lampshade knitting kit, includes yarn needles instructions and lampshade kit, base not included. £25. woollymahoosive.com.
am hl am hl am hl am hl
NEW STITCH
b g o n n i e r h r e t r H ver a new Disco
HERRINGBONE HALF TREBLE PATTERN Ch16. Row 1 (RS) Yrh, insert hook in 3rd ch from hook, yrh and pull through ch and next loop on hook, yrh and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook, *yrh, insert hook in next ch, yrh and pull through ch and next loop on hook, yrh and pull through remaining 2
stitch
and how to use it
loops on hook; rep from * across, turn. Row 2 (WS) Ch2 (counts as hbhtr), *yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull through stitch and next loop on hook, yrh and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook; rep from * across, turn. Repeat Row 2 for pattern. Patterns by Sara Huntington
in ever
y iss u e.
T n the page f m e eative ide to e th patt n
Vary the width of your stripes for a sassy co-ordinating set.
New stitch
Finish your hug off with a bold button in a contrasting colour.
A simple square makes the perfect coaster.
mug hugs Hooking this set of cheerful mug cosies is a speedy way to master this stitch. Q Lily Sugar ’n Cream (100% cotton, 71g/109m), 1 ball of each: Red (095), Hot Green (1712) and Sage Green (084) Q A 4mm hook (US G/6) Q A 2cm diameter button
MEASUREMENTS Mug hugs made to fit a mug of approx 26cm (10 in) circumference
TENSION 13 hbhtr and 12 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over hbhtr MUG COSY Ch36. Row 1 Hbhtr in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across. [34sts] Row 2 Ch2 (counts as hbhtr), hbhtr in next st and each st across to end. [34sts] Rows 3-8 Repeat Row 2 six more times. Fasten off and weave in ends. EDGING Using a contrasting colour, join yarn in first st, ss in each st across to end (34 sts), rotate to work into row ends, ss in each row end (8 sts), rotate to work into the opposite side of the starting ch, ss in each ch across (34sts), rotate to work into row ends, ss in each of next 3 row ends, ch10, skip next 2 row ends, ss in each of next 3 row ends, ss to first ss to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Sew a button onto the edge opposite the ch-10 loop.
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Supernova
Snuggle up at home with a puff stitch throw filled with pretty pastel starburst motifs. By Esme Crick.
granny blanket Snuggling up on the sofa with your fave podcast has never looked so tempting as with this yummy grey and pastel throw. Puff stitches produce irresistible texture in this modern spin on a classic granny.
EASY PEASY SUPER CHUNKY
10MM HOOK
NOTES YOU WILL NEED Q DROPS Andes Super Chunky
(65% wool, 35% alpaca, 100g/75m), 10 balls of Gray Lilac (4010), 2 balls of each: Light Grey Green (7120), Medium Grey (8465), Sea Green Mix (7130), 1 ball of each: Cerise (3755), Pistachio (7320), Powder Pink (3145) Q A 10mm (US N/15) crochet hook For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
Make a total of 35 squares following the pattern below, using the following colour combinations: Square 1 (make 12): Yarn A Powder Pink, Yarn B Medium Grey Square 2 (make 4): Yarn A Pistachio, Yarn B Sea Green Mix Square 3 (make 9): Yarn A Cerise, Yarn B Sea Green Mix Square 4 (make 6): Yarn A Pistachio, Yarn B Light Grey Green Square 5 (make 4): Yarn A Cerise, Yarn B Light Grey Green
more times, (Puff3 in next sp, ch1) 3 times, ss into top of first Puff3, fasten off. [16 Puff3s] Round 4 Join Pearl Grey in any ch-2 sp. Ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), (tr, ch2, 2tr) in same sp. *2htr in next ch-1 sp, 2dc in next ch-1 sp, 2htr in next ch-1 sp**, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 3 more times, ending final repeat at **, ss in top of beg ch-3. Round 5 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in next st and each st around to end with (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in each corner sp, ss to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off, weave in ends. Block squares before joining.
MEASUREMENTS
SQUARE
JOINING Lay out squares as per Layout Guide. Using Pearl Grey, place squares RS tog and join rows of squares together using a ss seam worked into back loops only. Join each strip with the same method.
Each square measures 20x20cm (8x8in), finished throw measures 110x150cm (43x59in)
With Yarn A, ch4 and join with ss into first ch to form ring. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first tr) 15tr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-3, fasten off. [16 tr] Round 2 Work all Puff stitches into spaces between sts. Join Yarn B in any sp between 2 sts. Draw up loop to height of tr, Puff2 (see Special Stitches) in same sp, ch1. (Puff2, ch1) in each rem sp around to end, ss into top of first Puff2. [16 Puff2’s] Round 3 Ss into next ch-1 sp, draw up loop to height of tr, Puff3 (see Special Stitches) in same sp, ch2. *(Puff3 in next sp, ch1) 3 times, Puff3 in next sp, ch2; rep from * 2
EDGING Attach Pearl Grey to any corner ch-sp. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc, ch2, dc) in same sp, dc in each tr and ch-sp around working (dc, ch2, dc) in each corner ch-sp, ss to first dc. Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in each dc around working (tr, ch3, tr) in each corner ch-sp, ss to top of beg ch-3. Round 3 Ch1, dc in each st around working (dc, ch2, dc) in each corner ch-sp, ss to the first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
SPECIAL STITCHES Puff Stitch Round 2 (Puff2) (yrh, insert hook into st, draw up loop) twice, draw yarn through all loops on hook Puff Stitch Round 3 (Puff3) (yrh, insert hook into st, draw up loop) 3 times, draw yarn through all loops on hook For a full list, see page 92
LAYOUT GUIDE 1
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Finish off your blanket with a border worked in trebles.
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ENDLESSLY INVENTIVE
crochet
Kerry Lord’s new book, Edward’s Crochet Doll Emporium, has made it possible for us to crochet our favourite people! We had a lovely chat with Kerry to find out how it all began. 70 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
GOOD READ
F
rom animals to monsters to dolls, it’s been a whirlwind ride for Kerry Lord of TOFT. Her latest book, Edward’s Crochet Doll Emporium, following on from Edward’s Menagerie, Edward’s Menagerie: Birds and Edward’s Crochet Imaginarium, came out in September but has been making waves since July and earlier. “We had the merman doll and my doll – the mini-me – on display in the TOFT shop, and customers couldn’t help picking them up and playing with them – I’d overhear them planning all the characters they could make,” Kerry exclaims. The response to this new volume in Edward’s library has been predictably positive, even if, as Kerry mentions, “there will always be people who only want me to make animals, forever.” Like all of Kerry’s characters, the dolls are formed from a basic pattern, with extra details creating personality and individuality, which are the winning ingredients of the Edward’s brand. BRIGHT BEGINNINGS It all began in 2012, when Kerry’s son Edward was just a baby. “The first book, Edward’s Menagerie, was never part of any grand plan,” Kerry says. “I didn’t expect that at all. I made that first elephant just for Edward and it spiralled from there. It’s been really exciting!” The company is now five times bigger than it was, and Kerry’s work life has changed enormously in the past five years. “I crochet constantly – every day,” she says. “There are over 300 Edward’s Menagerie patterns. It just keeps going!” As well as the two books on the menagerie, there’s also a subscription club, which sends out a new pattern every six
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From far left: The merman has become the most popular character; Kerry Lord with one of her dolls; each doll is made from the same basic pattern.
weeks, and plans for a dedicated Edward’s website. “On average I design a new pattern every couple of weeks, sometimes every single week. Crochet is a daily part of my job now, which it wasn’t even a year ago.” The subscription service feeds into the addictive nature of the patterns. “There’s such an appetite for new patterns! I think it’s partly because they’re easy and quick, and you get such a great reaction to them when you give them as gifts.” Every single element of the designs is crocheted, so no extra fiddly bits, such as plastic eyes, are added on, which keeps them as child-friendly (for three years old and up) and safe as possible. In addition, each design is fully tested to make sure it’s suitable for small children, Kerry says, “but the trouble is I can’t sew every one up. I always tell people that they’re only as safe as you make them. You need to sew them really securely.” An interesting trend she’s noticed, however, is the number of her patterns that aren’t being made for children at all.
“People are using the designs to make people for adults – such as a customised bride and groom as a wedding present,” she says. “Edward started school in September, so I made him a doll of himself in school uniform to mark the occasion.” A NEW CHAPTER The decision to name the new collection Edward’s Crochet Doll Emporium was simple, she says. “‘Edward’s’ has become a brand in its own right and I didn’t want to say that because he’s a boy he can’t have dolls. I have a daughter too now, Alexandra, but the ideal of allocating the dolls to her just because of her gender turned my stomach. I crashed into that with the Imaginarium, when people perceived it as being for boys because it was about monsters. That didn’t make sense to me at all.” So what about Alexandra? Is she going to get a look in? “I’m going to have to put my thinking cap on and think up something original in her name. Luckily she’s too young
“They couldn’t help picking them up and playing with them”
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“The merman is the one everyone loves”
The mix-and-match aspect of the dolls means each one has its own unique look.
to be aware of it yet, so I’ve got some time to think of something.” Kerry confesses to not having played with dolls herself as a child, but agrees that including removable costumes for her crocheted dolls was crucial, although it did add to the challenges. “The androgyny was difficult – I designed 25 heads and 25 costumes, with each needing to work interchangeably. They need to be up for interpretation as whatever their crocheter wants.” This was never truer than with the merman. “He was supposed to be a Viking, but then we put him in the mermaid costume and it was like, ‘That’s the best thing we’ve ever seen!’ The merman is the one everyone loves. He took us all by surprise.” By July Kerry was already hearing talk of people planning to crochet their idols – “people are making pop stars and celebrities, and even politicians!” Right from the very beginning, Kerry has encouraged her readers to customise patterns to suit themselves, and this emphasis on creative modification has never 72 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Each doll is a blank canvas, ready for its owner to add its personality.
been stronger than in Doll Emporium. “A whole section of the book is dedicated to tips for doing this,” Kerry says. As a result, personalised versions of the characters have already started popping up on social media. A STYLE OF MAKING Doll Emporium, she admits, is the book she’s always wanted to do. “My style of making has always been about building from a shared form,” she explains. “It enables people to go back to a familiar pattern to start each design, which is really comforting.” Her Imaginarium book served as a sort of trial run for Doll Emporium. “I actually tried out an early doll shape before getting started on the monsters,” she says. “Imaginarium was a flip book too, and I noticed quickly that customers and my team were drawn to making people shapes.” Making them in crochet was an obvious choice for Kerry. “I love knitting too, but when it comes to 3D shapes, crochet is ideal,” she says. “You’ve got decreases and increases, and it’s easy to make sure they’re
symmetrical. To knit the dolls would be far more complicated, and I’m sure part of the reason why the Edward’s range is so popular is because they’re suitable for beginners. We wanted them to attract people who are new to crochet, or haven’t even tried it before.” The dolls were all completed in good time, ready for show season to begin. “We started at the The Knitting & Stitching Show at London’s Ally Pally in October, showcasing them all, then headed to the other big shows – The Knitting & Stitching Shows in Harrogate and Dublin, and The Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts show at the NEC.” Fortunately, thanks to the previous books, Kerry’s accustomed to hauling precious luggage along with her. “You get used to being reasonably protective,” she laughs. “Recently I came back from Australia with 128 animals in a suitcase. It’s my most valuable luggage, because of all the time – around 1,000 hours of work – and the luxury TOFT yarns used to make them. You couldn’t replicate them quickly – it would take around six months of work to replace them.”
GOOD READ Clockwise from top: removable clothing is a crucial part of the Edward’s experience; toy eyes give the dolls a sweet look; Kerry’s inspiration board.
TOFT In L D g Su E C e Pa T r
2018 Calendar
exclusive amigurumi dressup
dollS & outfits design ed by Kerry Lord
SImply Crochet’s 2018 calendar Enjoy Kerry’s delightful dolls all next year!
Kerry has designed a dozen of the cutest personalities from one basic doll pattern and put them together into a calendar, which is included for you with this issue. Each one has its own unique look with bespoke hairstyles and outfits – and there’s loads of flexibility for you to be creative with different hair and mixing and matching clothes. Hook one up each month in 2018 to collect them all.
Customs must have been intrigued… “Oh yes, definitely! In America and Australia they searched through my bags. They must have been fairly confused.” Fitting all this in around other duties at TOFT isn’t easy. “It’s quite a juggle,” she says. “Luckily, I’ve built up a really strong team of around 20 people over the past 11 years, so I don’t have to do it all myself and I don’t go to all the shows.” Parenting is the hardest act to balance with the business. “I work full-time so I pay someone to look after my children in the daytime,” she says. “We live at TOFT, which is a change I made about a year ago to enable me to work full-time flexibly. Alpacas are there, in the background, but that’s always run as a separate business.” C R E AT I N G C H A R A C T E R S Happily, Kerry hasn’t been alone in crocheting the many dolls and their variations. “I work with a team of makers,” she says. “I do all the unique shaping, then the team help me get through the rest of it. We had to make about 120 arms! You bash Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
through it over and over again, which is an art in itself.” Doll Emporium took more making than any other Edward’s book because of all the clothes required. “I hadn’t added it all up before we started,” says Kerry. “That was probably a good thing. Eight people worked with me on the dolls, and the hardest part was controlling the tension of the crochet so that it matched mine throughout. That’s difficult to do, especially under pressure. Each doll had to be made in all the different skin tones and so on.” The most fun has been last-minute characters that came about spontaneously out of the figures and outfits. “It was amazing when we started combining outfits and figures for the photographs,” says Kerry. “It’s different to a straightforward pattern book. You swap certain heads and beards and outfits, and you have someone new!” While officially due out early October, pre-orders and early releases meant some crocheters have had their hands on Edward’s Crochet Doll Emporium since the launch party in mid-September.
And Simply Crochet readers will have a sneaky exclusive in this issue, as Kerry has created a special calendar exclusively for us, with 33 mix-and-match patterns.” They’re about a third of the size of the dolls in the book, so there are fewer stitches and they’re quicker and easier to make,” she says. “You can whip one up in a couple of evenings, which makes them great gifts.” With long and short hair options, and lots of extra accessories, they’re ideal for making in small family groups, which makes them especially fun! “I designed them in the summer, which was really great as it was when I was just beginning to promote the book. It reminded me about what I love about the Doll Emporium! The Simply Crochet calendar helped me get fully back into that.” Kerry has already finished the fifth book in the series, which is due out in early 2018 and is still swathed in secrecy. “I’m just doing the final edits,” she says, beaming. “I wanted to get it done and out there while the trend is still on fire.” We can’t wait to see the new crochet characters, whatever they might be! It doesn’t seem like the passion for Edward’s world will be cooling down any time soon. Written by Judy Darley Find out more about the Edward range at www.thetoftalpacashop.co.uk WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 73
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YARN REVIEWS
e l n b d a y c a a r p n l s A up in super soft style with this selectio e l g g u n. Sn SQUARE MOTIF
Ch4, ss to first ch to join into a ring. ROUND 1 Ch3, (counts as tr), tr into ring, (ch2, 3tr in ring) 3 times, ch2, tr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-3, ss into next tr and into the ch-2 sp. [4 3-tr groups, 4 ch-2 sp] ROUND 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), (tr, ch2, 2tr) into ch-2 sp, *tr in next 3 sts, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice, tr in next 3 sts, ss to top of beg ch-3. [4 7-tr groups, 4 ch-2 sp] FASTEN OFF and weave in ends. Block to form square shape.
a Make c f! s y l g g u sn
Yarn reviews Knitcraft Leader of the Pac
wool and the gang feeling good yarn
WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 90% acrylic, 10% alpaca BALL 100g/170m HOOK 5mm RRP £4
WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 70% baby alpaca, 7% merino, 23% nylon BALL 50g/130m HOOK 5-8mm RRP £10.50
With a mix of wonderfully soft alpaca fibre and strong, hard-wearing acrylic, Knitcraft’s latest aran yarn, Leader of the Pac, is perfect for hooking up your winter wardrobe of jumpers, cardis and socks. It’s easy to work with and comes in a range of great colours,
including Cream, Mink and Petrol (blue). The dusky Pink shade shown above would be lovely for cosy baby blankets or bootees – and don’t worry, Leader of the Pac is machine washable! It’s great value too. www.hobbycraft.co.uk 0330 026 1400
Prepare to fall in love with this latest luxurious yarn from Wool and the Gang – it’s called Feeling Good yarn, and boy does it live up to its name! It’s gorgeously soft and fluffy, and light as a feather – you’ll definitely want this next to your skin, so it’s great for snoods,
West Yorkshire spinners Illustrious
drops nepal
WEIGHT DK CONTENT 70% Falkland wool, 30% British alpaca SKEIN 100g/225m HOOK 4mm RRP £10.95
WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 65% wool, 35% alpaca BALL 50g/75m HOOK 5mm RRP £1.90
West Yorkshire Spinners’ luxurious Illustrious yarn now has six new shades – the Naturals collection adds to the existing 13 colours already available. This beautiful blend of wool and alpaca is super soft and great for patterns that benefit from excellent stitch
definition. The natural tones of British alpaca fleece create the new colours, which include Shale, Pebble, Graphite and Pewter (pictured). This yarn is a true classic and well worth treating yourself to few skeins. www.wyspinners.com 01535 664500
A warm, chunky yarn, Nepal mixes the softness of superfine alpaca with Peruvian Highland wool, which helps maintain a stable shape – so it’s perfect for hooking up your winter woollies. It is spun from three stands so it works up with an appealing, rustic stitch
scarves and hats. The colour range includes vivid solids, like the Midnight Blue pictured and self-striping shades, which WatG say have been designed to help you hook your way to inner zen – yes please to that! www.woolandthegang.com 020 7241 6420
definition. You’ll be spoilt for choice for colours as it comes in 38 gorgeous shades, including the Powder Pink shown above. The yarn is made by carding the colours together before spinning which gives it a subtle mixed effect. Hand wash only. www.garnstudio.com
king cole superfine alpacA chunky
yarn stories fine merino & baby alpaca
WEIGHT Chunky CONTENT 100% pure superfine alpaca BALL 50g/62m HOOK 6mm RRP £5.99
WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 70% merino wool, 30% alpaca BALL 50g/95m HOOK 5mm RRP £7.95
For the ultimate in indulgence, this sumptuous new yarn from King Cole is made from 100% pure superfine alpaca fleece. It feels beautifully soft and light and is a treat to work with. A great choice for making cosy winter hats, scarves, shawls and socks, this yarn is also ideal for Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
hooking snuggly Christmas gifts with a special touch of luxury. You can choose from five stylish natural shades, including Camel, Grey and Charcoal (pictured). Wash this yarn by hand only. www.kingcole.com 01756 703670
Sourced from the finest raw materials, this aran-weight yarn mixes baby alpaca for divine softness with Australian fine merino, which makes the yarn practical and will keep it looking great for years to come. It’s lovely to work with and feels great to wear so is perfect for
everything from cardis and shawls to socks. It comes in a gorgeous range of shades, from bright Fuchsia and cool Duck Egg, to the classic French Navy pictured here. A bonus is that this yarn is machine washable. www.yarnstories.com 01484 848431 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 77
Show us yours Join our gang of Treble Makers and share your thoughts and makes with us, for a chance to be featured here, use our hashtag #Sctreblemaker
W
MERRY SANTA ELF
! ER N IN
W Getting very
FURRY FRIEND
much into the Christmas spirit is Keelie Bushby with her super-cute elf, all dressed up in her festive finery. The bobble from Becky Skuse’s design has become a bell – ring those changes. Check out her stripy stockings and Mona Lisa smile! Want one? Issue 63.
H
ow amazing is this hooky treasure? We spotted this badger cushion (Bryony Hitchcock’s design from issue 62), brilliantly hooked by @della.c.webb. It would fit right in with the needlepoint bolsters at Downton Abbey, but it’s clever double crochet colourwork. We love it. Really a lot.
! ER N N WI
G d Gh U Quick off the mark, Leanne Warran whipped up this spooky skull number from issue 59. The jumper has gone down a storm, and we’re not surprised you creative lot have adapted Pony McTate’s pattern with your own colours and smart detailing. Leanne’s chosen two-tone rich black and vivid green – no doubt it was a big hit with friends and family at spooky Halloween festivities. Flip across to page 94 to find out how to get hold of back issues. Woo-ooo. Via email.
DOUBLE TAP We’ve been double tapping on Instagram and admiring your makes. Tag us @simplycrochetmag and use the hashtag #SCtreblemaker. FOOT LOOSE We’re impressed with these super Rohn Strong socks from @ burialshroud. Made in Golding Yarns’ Simply Crochet shades, they’ll brighten up the dark evenings no end. PERFECT PEDRO The delightful little donkey that @lolalovesto crochet has made is stealing our hearts! He’s Pedro – the darling dude designed by Ilaria Caliri who made an appearance in our issue 59. TWINKLE TOES @wonkystitches expertly created these gloriously bright socks in candy-coloured variegated yarn – and shows off her admirable yoga skills at the same time! Nice lotus position, Wonky.
THE LOWDOWN It’s simple to be in with a chance of winning one of three great hooky prizes next issue! Show us your Simply Crochet makes on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or via email or post by 1 December 2017. For all terms and conditions, and more information, visit www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/competitionrules
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@SIMPLYCROCHET
! NER N I W
SPOOKY SKULLS @Lily.and.rose was taken with Sylvia Margaret’s collar pattern in Hook to Hook in issue 62, and has made her own fabulous creation to add a touch of spooky glamour to her winter outfits. Because they’re small, collars are a great way to use up your stash and to practise new or slightly more complex stitches. And the result is an accessory that adds focus to your neckline in more dramatic ways than a simple necklace could do. For more Hook to Hook inspiration, turn to p51 to see Claire Guy and Tuula Kyrölä go head to head with their tea cosy patterns.
This month we asked you..
LLAMA DRAMA
We love this super speedy make from Cath Bishop, who thoughtfully placed our blue llama from issue 63 in the sunshine. What a happy chap he looks!
Who’s your favourite person to crochet for at Christmas?
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COMPETITION RULES By Promoter: Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (“Promoter”). By taking part in one of our Competitions, you agree to be bound by these Competition Rules. Late or incomplete entries will be disqualified. No responsibility accepted for lost, delayed, ineligible or fraudulent entries. Proof of posting (if relevant) shall not be deemed proof of delivery. Entries must be submitted by an individual (not via any agency or similar) and, unless otherwise stated, are limited to one per household. The Promoter reserves the right in its sole discretion to substitute any prize with cash or a prize of comparable value. Unless otherwise stated, the Competition is open to all UK residents of 18 years and over, except employees of the Promoter and any party involved in the competition or their households. By entering a Competition you give permission to use your name, likeness and personal information in connection with the Competition and for promotional purposes. All entries will become the property of the Promoter upon receipt and will not be returned. You warrant that the Competition entry is entirely your own work and not copied or adapted from any other source. If you are a winner, you may have to provide additional information. Details of winners will be available on request within three months of the closing date. If you are a winner, receipt by you of any prize is conditional upon you complying with (among other things) the Competition Rules. You acknowledge and agree that neither the Promoter nor any associated third parties shall have any liability to you in connection with your use and/or possession of your prize. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. If any winner is unable to be contacted within one month of the closing date, the Promoter will offer the prize to a runner-up. Promoter reserves the right to substitute the prize with one of the same or greater value but there is no cash alternative. Competitions in issue 64 are open from 00:01 on 9 November 2017 until 11:59pm on 6 December 2017. For Terms and Conditions of the competition on page 78, see www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk
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p o h s k Wor u we show yo Each ue to yo new to add something il . ocheting sk
T ep c e
3
Sequins DISCOVER
THE POSSIBILITIES OF THESE SHINY DISCS.
They’re small, sparkly circles of creativity that have been used as a method of decoration for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Originally made from metal or glass, today’s plastic sequins come in near-infinite possibilities, and can be used to adorn anything from hair accessories to practical covers for tablets and phones. If you like a bit of sparkle, a flurry of sequins is a simple way to upcycle and add glamour to an old sweater or dress. Hooking with sequins is very easy, especially if you’ve previously worked with beads. The process is very similar, although there are some extra details that you need to know. We’ll explain all and
then you can use your new skills to whip up our festive twinkly Christmas tree patch on page 83.
What sort of sequins are there? You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to sequin types.
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01 Texture Sequins come in two basic varieties: flat discs and domed bowls. Both create gorgeous bling, but the domed bowls tend to add more sparkle by reflecting the light in several directions from their many facets.
04 Holes Most sequins have a central hole, with the yarn of a stitch stretching from the hole to the edge to secure it. With larger sequins, look for a hole near the top instead (known as spangles), which creates a more even look.
02 Effect Not all sequins are made to sparkle, however – as well as the shiny versions you’d expect, you can get sequins with various surface effects including matt, hologram sparkle, transparent, embossed, printed patterns, and many more.
05 Shapes Once you’ve mastered round sequins, you can try all sorts of novelty shapes, including squares, stars, flowers, hearts or snowflakes. If your sequin has jagged edges, take care that they don’t damage the yarn.
03 Size From tiny dots to big statement features, sequin size can vary hugely and is measured in diameter – the distance from one side of the sequin to the other, across the central hole. Here we’ve got 3mm, 5mm, 8mm and 12mm sequins.
Psst:
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W k ov a op cloth, plain colo ed sequi h habit of ave falling e v ywh a e!
how do i get started? Get started with a hook, some yarn and a few sequins.
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To start off, we suggest you use a 4ply yarn and a 3mm hook. This is because no matter what size your sequin, the hole at the centre is usually 1mm. This limits you on the weight of yarn that can thread through a sequin – 4ply creates the best results, although you can use a heavier or lighter weight, such as DK or 2ply, but you may find the sequins hang too stiff or too loose rather than flat against the fabric. Alternatively, you can now buy sequins with a larger hole, around 6mm, for use with thicker yarns. We’re going to focus on standard sequins here. Find us on www.facebook.com/simplycrochetmag
Step 1 To start your sequin adventures, you’ll need to string some sequins onto your yarn. For a 4ply yarn, we suggest you start with 5-7mm sequins. You’ll also need some cotton thread and a needle that’s narrow enough to pass through the hole of your sequins. Step 2 Cut a piece of cotton thread approx 30cm long. Fold it in half and thread the two ends through the needle. Pull the ends through by approx 5cm, to create a loop in the thread away from the needle. Step 3 Take your yarn and pass the end through the loop in the thread. Step 4 Thread a few sequins onto the needle. If your sequin has a front and back, make sure you insert the needle into the front of the sequin. Step 5 Pass the sequins down over the thread… Step 6 …then gently slide them onto the yarn. You can do this one at a time or do a few sequins at a time. Step 7 Repeat Steps 4-6 to string all your sequins onto the yarn – we suggest you start with around 30 sequins.
How do I string sequins to use a chart? Once you can hook sequins, you can use almost any charted design to create a motif using them within your fabric. If you’re using a chart, you need to string your sequins in the correct order to make the pattern. To do this, start at the top row of the chart and string the sequin on the far-right of the row first, moving in order towards the left. If you’re left-handed, start at the far-left of the row and move towards the right. Repeat this process with each row, moving downwards to the end. Use this method to design your own sequin patterns, too – almost any festive make can benefit from a touch of sparkle!
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 81
hop Works
How do I hook sequins into my fabric?
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Now you’ll be ready to work the sequins into your stitches. Double crochet stitches tend to work best so try making a fabric with 12 dc. Starting with a right side row, work three plain rows of double crochet – this will give you enough background fabric for the sequins. The next row (a wrong side row) will be a sequin row, placing the sequins on the right side of the fabric. Step 1 Start the sequin row by working two plain dc. Step 2 You’ll work the next stitch with a sequin. To do this, start off as usual with a dc: insert hook into the next stitch, yrh and pull up a loop. Step 3 At the back of the stitch, slide one sequin up the yarn so it sits next to the right 82 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
side of the fabric. Step 4 Work yrh and pull through the 2 loops on the hook, to complete the dc stitch as usual. You won’t be able to see the sequin because it will be at the back of the stitch, on the right side of the fabric. Step 5 Work the next dc without a sequin. Here’s the fabric from the right side. Step 6 Repeat Steps 2-5 until you’ve placed four sequins. Then work two plain dc to finish the row. Work the next row with just plain dc stitches. Step 7 Repeat Steps 1-6 again or until you’re happy with the technique. Once you can hook with sequins, you’ll be able to place sequins in any stitches you like. Try varying the look by repeating Steps 1-6 again, but
this time skip Step 5 and place the sequins in every stitch (for a total of eight sequins) – they will overlap nicely. By now, you’ll see how the sequins are only worked with on wrong side rows, to appear on the right side of the fabric, while right side rows are only plain stitches. Depending on the size of your sequins and the weight of your yarn, the plain rows create a gap between the lines of sequins. If you want to eliminate this gap, try experimenting with working in the round and placing sequins on every round. In rows or rounds, always follow the instructions in your pattern if you’re using one, or if there’s a specific effect or pattern you want to create, make a swatch and experiment until you can achieve it.
Written by Becky Skuse
It’s easy to add sequins to your dc stitches.
SEQUIN PATCH
O Christmas tree Sparkly. Kitschy. Woolly. We’re in heaven. Sew this pretty sequin patch to everything in sight. By Becky Skuse.
Find us on www.facebook.com/simplycrochetmag
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 83
SEQUIN PATCH A BIT TRICKY 4PLY WEIGHT
3MM HOOK
YOU WILL NEED King Cole Giza Cotton 4ply, (100% mercerised Egyptian cotton, 50g/158m), 1 ball of Grey (2207) (you will only use approx 10g) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Circular sequins: 7mm diameter flat shiny, 3 silver, 5 red, 5 gold, 10 brown, 68 green Q Star shape sequin: 14mm diameter Q 1 silver hologram sparkle For yarn stockists contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com Q
MEASUREMENTS 10.5cm (4in) square
ABBREVIATIONS Dc with sequin (dcs) Insert hook into next st, yrh and pull up a loop, at the back of the stitch slide one sequin up the yarn so it sits next to the right side of the fabric, yrh and pull through the 2 loops on the hook For a full list, see page 92
Designer Becky Skuse says: “Fall in love with sequins by making this simple Christmas tree motif. It’s the perfect way to put some sparkle into your celebrations, with the red, gold and silver sequins placed to look like baubles. The overlapping discs look really professional while the sparkly star at the top steals the show! We used mostly flat and shiny sequins, in various colours, but you could use whatever you’ve got. The chart makes the patch simple to hook and easy to see where you need to place each sequin. Once finished, you could use the patch to make a greetings card, or as a pocket to brighten up your big-day outfit, or just use it as a festive decoration to add a bit of bling to your world.”
Hook a tree decorated with sequin ‘baubles’ and top it off with a beautiful shiny star.
sequins or place them in different positions if you prefer. PATCH Ch26. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [25 dc] Row 2 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), dc in each dc to end, turn. Row 3 Repeat Row 2. Row 4 Ch1, dc in each of next 10 dc, 5dcs with brown sequins, dc in each of next 10 dc. [20 dc, 5 dcs] Continue to work from the Chart as set until you’ve completed all 28 rows. Do not fasten off.
NOTES Before you start, string your sequins onto your yarn, following the Chart. Start at the top row of the Chart, stringing the sequins in order from right to left if you’re right-handed, or left to right if you’re left-handed. (Note that our motif is symmetrical so either approach will yield the same result.) Repeat this process with each row, moving downwards to the end. For example, with our chart, you would string 1 star (top row); 1 green (next row); 3 green (next row); 2 green, 1 red, 2 green (next row); 1 green, 1 gold, 3 green, 1 gold, 1 green (next row), and so on. Feel free to place more coloured bauble
Next round (RS) Ch1, dc in each st and row end around the whole piece, working 3dc at each corner, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block if desired.
CHART NOTES Work the motif patch using the chart, shown right. On the Chart, each square represents one dc stitch. Grey squares need to be worked as a standard dc stitch. The other coloured squares represent a dc with sequin (dcs) stitch, where you need to place a coloured sequin to match the colour of the square, following the key. Dc with sequin stitches are only worked on WS rows. All oddnumbered RS rows are made up of only standard dc stitches. The first four rows of the Chart are written out in full below to help you.
Key
28 27 26 25
Standard dc st
24 23 22 21
Dc with green sequin
20 19 18 17
Dc with red sequin
16 15 14 13
Dc with brown sequin
12 11 10 9
Dc with gold sequin
8 7 6 5
Dc with silver sequin
4 3 2 1 25
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YOUR GUIDE
Crochet essentials Over the next few pages, you’ll find simple step-by-step guides to many useful stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook. HOLDING THE HOOK
HOLDING THE YARN
Try these methods and see which works best.
Even tension results in even stitches.
PENCIL METHOD Hold the hook like a pencil, in your right hand (if you’re right-handed), about 3-5cm from the hooked end. If your hook has a flat area, you’ll find it comfortable to hold it here.
METHOD ONE Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your left hand (if you are right-handed), then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.
METHOD TWO Loop the ball end of the yarn loosely around the little finger of your left hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.
3 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.
4 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.
KNIFE METHOD Hold the hook between your thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm from the hooked end, resting the end of the hook against your palm. This will give you lots of control.
MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.
1 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your left hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a circular loop.
2 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop from front to back.
CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain.
How to count chains
9
1 Hold the hook in your right hand, and both the yarn end and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anticlockwise.
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2 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slipknot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain length.
3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your left hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains that’s stated in your pattern.
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Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.
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SLIP STITCH (ss)
WORKING IN ROWS
This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds.
Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.
1 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain you worked. Wrap yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anticlockwise direction.
1 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the yarn is behind the hook.
2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown) and then the loop already on the hook to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.
2 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see opposite). Now work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.
DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.
1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.
2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).
3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you two loops on your crochet hook.
4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook, ready to do the next stitch.
HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.
1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).
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2 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).
3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).
4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops. You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.
YOUR GUIDE TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.
1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.
2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh) and pull the yarn through the stitch only.
3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through just the first 2 loops on the hook.
4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook. Your treble crochet is complete.
DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) US term: treble crochet
TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr) US term: double treble crochet
This is a stitch regularly used as an elongated version of the treble (described above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 1 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch. 2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the ch loop only (4 loops on hook). 3 Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).
This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook under top loop of next ch. 2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook). 3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2
Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). 4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts. 5 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top two loops of the 2nd stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.
TURNING CHAIN (t-ch) For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain.
loops only. Repeat from † 3 times more and your triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts. 4 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble, inserting hook under the top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.
How to count stitches Check your work is correct.
In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of chains. The
table below tells you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.
STITCH
Add to foundation chain before starting row
Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)
For turning chain (counts as first st)
Double crochet
1 ch
1 ch*
1 ch*
Half treble
1 ch
2 ch
2 ch
Treble
2 ch
3 ch
3 ch
Double treble
3 ch
4 ch
4 ch
Triple treble
4 ch
5 ch
5 ch
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Being able to count your stitches is very important and helps you to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row. To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see above right). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see right).
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
7
8
7
9
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HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR
INCREASING AND DECREASING
Create stripes and other colour effects.
Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.
1 Before you work the final yrh (yarn round hook) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old yarn and then pick up the new one with your hook.
INCREASE To increase one stitch is very simple – work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. When you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.
2 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour. Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.
DECREASE For a quick decrease, just skip one stitch. For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch. Finish both together.
SEWING SEAMS You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.
1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet right sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.
2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hook into both edge stitches, yrh and pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches, keeping work fairly loose.
How to check your tension Make and measure a swatch to check your tension. Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose so you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than rows, because you can always work more or fewer rows.
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3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.
4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed. Work 1 double crochet and 1 chain alternately.
YOUR GUIDE FOUNDATION RING
WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING
Create a foundation ring for working in the round.
To make circles, tubes and other shapes.
1 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern instructions. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yrh…
2 …and pull yarn through 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given right.
1 Make a foundation ring and work the t-ch (3ch for treble sts). Work a treble st as usual, but insert hook into centre of ring. For treble sts, yrh, insert hook into ring.
2 Finish the treble as usual (yrh, pull yarn through ring, yrh, pull yarn through first 2 loops, yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops). Work more sts into the ring as needed.
3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Work your sts into the Magic Loop, over both the loop and the tail end (so two yarn strands).
4 Once you’ve worked the first round of stitches, simply pull the tail end of yarn to draw up the ring. Work a slip stitch to join the last and first sts to finish the first round (as instructed in the guide below).
MAGIC LOOP An alternative foundation ring for working in the round. Working yarn
Tail end
1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.
2 Now insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the loop.
JOINING ROUNDS Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.
Rounds or spirals
1 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.
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2 Then place the yarn round the hook. Pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch and through the original stitch on your hook.
3 You’ve slip stitched the round together! Before working another round, be sure to make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless you pattern instructs you otherwise.
Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see left). Other patterns are worked in a spiral so you don’t need to join the rounds at the end, just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row. Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.
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©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com
Check which technique you need to use.
Abbreviations across approx beg bl BPtr
ch(s) ch-sp(s) chcl(s) 2-tr cl
cont dc dc2tog
dec dtr dtr2tog fdc ftr fl foll/folls FPtr
to end of the row approximate(ly) beginning insert hook under back loop only Back Post treble: yrh, starting from the back, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as treble st chain/chain stitch(es) chain space(s) refers to ch made previously, eg. ch-3 clusters (yrh, insert hook in sp/ st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh & draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting hook in same sp/st, yrh & draw through all loops on hook continue double crochet (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook decrease double treble crochet work 2dtr together foundation dc foundation tr insert hook under front loop only following/follows Front Post treble: work in opposite way to BPtr
Crochet hook conversions htr htr2tog in next inc LH lp(s) meas patt(s) pm prev qtr rem rep RH rnd(s) RS sk sp(s) ss st(s) tbl t-ch(s) tog tr tr2tog
ttr WS yrh *
()
half treble work 2htr together sts to be worked into the same stitch increase left hand loop(s) measures pattern(s) place marker previous quadruple treble remain(s)/remaining repeat right hand round(s) right side skip space(s) slip stitch stitch(es) through back loop turning chain(s) together treble crochet (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, yrh and draw through all loops on hook triple treble crochet wrong side yarn round hook work instructions immediately foll *, then rep as many more times as directed work all instructions in the brackets as many times as directed
HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, fasten the end off carefully. Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item with rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally. 92 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
UK
METRIC
US
14
2mm
–
13
2.25mm
B/1
12
2.5mm
–
–
2.75mm
C/2
11
3mm
–
10
3.25mm
D/3
9
3.5mm
E/4
–
3.75mm
F/5
8
4mm
G/6
7
4.5mm
7
6
5mm
H/8
5
5.5mm
I/9
4
6mm
J/10
3
6.5mm
2
7mm
–
0
8mm
L/11
00
9mm
M/13
000
10mm
N/15
K/10
Which hook do I use? Hook size
UK yarn weight
2.5-3.5mm hook
4ply yarn
3.5-4.5mm hook
double knitting yarn
5-6mm hook
aran yarn
7mm and bigger
chunky yarn
UK/US conversions UK
US
chain
ch
chain
ch
slip stitch
ss
slip stitch
ss
double crochet
dc
single crochet
sc
half treble
htr
half double
hdc
treble
tr
double
dc
double treble
dtr
treble
tr
triple treble
ttr
double treble
dtr
CHARTS
Charts & Diagrams Here are the extra bits and pieces you’ll need to make the maze clutch and diamond cowl in this issue. Maze Clutch, page 20 23
Key Moss
20 Amethyst
15
10
5 34
30
25
20
15
10
5
Diamond Cowl, page 23 Gold Square A Square B Square C Square D Square E Square F
Come to our blog at www.simplycrochetmag.com
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MANDALA
n g i n s n t i ar p S
ith Lucy Croft’s brilliant red starry w e v i t es whee G et f l.
Psst
Win the to mak e y n th ! Made in association with King Cole. For stockists www.kingcole.com or call 0207 596 4321
Mandala GO PRO DO , TRE LE
4PLY WEIGHT
2.5MM HOOK
YOU WILL NEED Q King Cole Giza Cotton 4ply (100%
cotton, 50g/158m), 1 ball of each: Red (2202) Black (2201) White (2190) Green (2203) Brown (2205) Silver (2193) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook For yarn stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com
MEASUREMENTS 18cm (7in) diameter
ABBREVIATIONS qtr Yrh 4 times, insert hook into st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, (yrh and draw through 2 sts) 5 times Picot Ch2, ss to second ch from hook For a full list, see page 92
This design is number 12 in our series of mandalas for 2017, hooked with King Cole’s Giza Cotton 4ply yarn. The pattern matches the December illustration in your Simply Crochet calendar – now you can make the real deal. Share your creation on social media using the hashtag #SCmandalas – we absolutely love to see your colourful makes. MANDALA Using Black, make a magic ring. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 8dc into ring, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off. [8 dc] Round 2 Join White in first dc, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, 2tr in each tr around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [12 tr] Round 3 (Ch2, tr in next tr, picot, ch2, ss in next tr) 8 times. Fasten off. Round 4 Join Black in first picot with a ss, (ch5, ss in next picot) 8 times. Round 5 Ch2 (count as htr), ch3, htr in first ch-5 sp, ch3, (htr in next ss, ch3, htr in next ch-5 sp, ch3) 7 times, ss to top of first ch-2 to join. Fasten off. [16 htr, 16 ch-3 sps] Round 6 Skip first htr and ch-3 sp, join Red in next htr, *ch14, picot, working back along ch-14, dc in each of next 2 ch, htr in each of next 2 ch, tr in each of next 3 ch, dtr in each of next 3 ch, ttr in each of next 2 ch, qtr in each of next 2 ch, skip (ch3, htr,
Missed our 2017 colour-in mandala calendar with issue 51? See page 94 for back issues.
IT’S THE YEAR OF THE GIZA MANDALA
w
All 12 mandalas in our 2017 calendar series are hooked in Giza, King Cole’s 100% cotton 4ply. The mercerised Egyptian cotton is fine, has a brilliant sheen and a luxurious feel. The cotton is grown in its namesake city, Giza. The purity of the soil there results in fantastic clarity and depth in each of the 20 colourways. For the chance to win six balls of Giza yarn to hook this design, head to www.simply crochet mag.co.uk/winking-colegiza-yarn
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ch3 on Round 5), ss to next htr; repeat from * 7 more times. Fasten off. Round 7 Join Green in third ch of any ch-14, *working behind Round 6, ch5, ss in top of ttr opposite ch just worked, ch2, dtr in next ss, ch2, skip first 2 ch of next ch-14, ss in next ch; repeat from * 7 more times. Fasten off. Round 8 Join Green in 11th ch of any ch-14 in Round 6, *working behind Round 6, ch2, ss in top of htr opposite ch just worked, (ch2, qtr in next dtr in Round 7) 4 times, ch1, ss in 11th ch of next ch-14; repeat from * 7 more times. Fasten off. Round 9 Join Brown with a ss in picot at any point of Round 6, *ch5, working into sts in Round 8; ss in next qtr, ch3, dtr in next ch-2 sp, dtr in next qtr, dtr in next ch-2 sp, picot, dtr in next qtr, dtr in next ch-2 sp, ch3, ss in next qtr, ch5, ss in picot at next point of Round 6; repeat from * 7 more times. Fasten off. Round 10 Join Silver in first ss, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same ss, *ch8, dc in next picot, ch8, dc in next ss at top of next point; repeat from * 7 more times, omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. Round 11 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same dc, *10dc in next ch-8 sp, dc in next dc; repeat from * around, omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.
C Hook th cute scalloped sweat
Cross stitched homewares
Waterfall cardigan Bee blanket
fearsome toy lion! Bargello bag And more‌
+ Cosy cowl pattern
ON SALE THURS 7 DEC * Contents subject to change
HOOKY TREASURE
Broomstick belle Mon Petit Violon designer Vita Apala spills the beans about a comfy cardigan that’s close to her heart. y favourite crocheted make is a broomstick lace cardigan that I made for myself some time ago. I love it because, first of all, I don’t often make things for myself. Usually I make things for my kids, for friends’ kids, for babies, but not for me. In the past few years, I’ve made only two cardigans for myself and this is one of them. I love it also because of the texture! It‘s so wonderful. I think many crocheters think broomstick lace is very complicated when actually it’s not. It looks very smart, very chic, but it’s pretty easy once you learn it. The stitches work up really fast and you can create unique garments that people will envy. The cardigan was made with Ophelia Italy Emma yarn. It’s a bulky, acrylic, alpaca and wool blend yarn. It is very soft but warm. As I live in Italy and usually we have quite mild winters, I can wear it even in the winter with a wool sweater underneath. And it’s perfect for autumn and spring, to wear with jeans and a T-shirt.
M
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Generally, I crochet really fast. When people see me crocheting they often ask how I can crochet so fast! Especially as I am basically quite a slow person – I speak slowly, I think slowly, I do things slowly, but when I crochet – I am fast! So it didn’t take much time for me to make this cardigan. Maybe a week. I often work on several projects at the same time too, so it becomes really difficult to calculate exactly how much time I spent on one particular item. Whenever I wear the cardigan I get a lot of compliments! People ask me where I got it and when I say I made it, usually people are very surprised and dubious. I love that whenever someone is doubtful and asks “Really? You made it?”, my daughter proudly answers: “Yes, my mum can crochet anything!”, which is actually not true, but it’s nice that she thinks so. The pattern is available in Vita Apala’s online shops on Etsy and Ravelry, and includes sizes S, M, L, and XL. You can find crochet patterns, tips and more from Vita online at www.monpetitviolon.com
Stockholm | Est. 1976
Su Ix y- r E Get ready for Christmas with our lacy winter decorations, bauble bunting and candycoloured Advent calendar projects in this issue. Plus there’s plenty of seasonal amigurumi to hook up and a collection of fun holiday jumpers, too. There’s even a sparkly festive llama to jazz up your tree!
s o B k Is U Pr J c i De A o Ra E r H p://b .l / Ra S Mp Y
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Su Ix y-t O Tartan and plaid collection, hooky Halloween treats, spooky accessories and crochet socks.
s E Ft - Ev n Bobble stitch makes, pineapple lace top, vintage jumper, rainbows and Tunisian crochet.
s E Ft - O Granny treble ideas, an amigurumi alpaca, sparkly crochet and a scarf for him. Plus, try Bavarian crochet.
Su Ix y-o Pop art colourwork, waffle stitch makes, amigurumi sloth, cosy blanket, and a fringed ombrĂŠ poncho.
s E Ft - X Catwalk-inspired accessories, granny square cardigan, Tunisian crochet and a cute kangaroo toy.
s E Ft - E Hook stocking fillers by top designers, amazing Rudolph wall art, filet crochet and an ombre shawl.
Su Ix y Yarnbombing makes, easy-peasy jumper, pretty summer tops, amigurumi ladybird and a crochet teepee.
s E Ft - i E Easter amigurumi, colourwork, retro tunic top, tribal home makes and planned colour pooling.
s E Ft - i E Beach ideas, cute amigurumi donkey, vintage dungaree shorts and a filet crochet skull jumper.
s E Ft - Ou Dreamy pastel projects, amigurumi unicorn, rainbow blanket and a granny stripe cardigan.
s E Ft - Ig t Festival makes, a doughnut dress for kids, gradient yarn, summer amigurumi and filet crochet.
s E Ft - Hr e Mohair accessories, cosy blankets, a new designer challenge and the first in our mandala series.
s E fY Christmas makes, corner-to-corner blanket, ripple coat and amigurumi reindeer to hook.
Si n Up f R Di i Al s Bs r Pt o An O ’Ll n Ve i S An t Er i Su
2018 Calendar
exclusive amigurumi dress-up dollS & outfits designed by Kerry Lord
Su E C e Pa T r
In L D g
TOFT
Find more dolls to make in Kerry Lord’s new book Edward’s Crochet Doll Emporium (£16.99, Pavilion), out now!
The latest book from Kerry Lord of luxury yarn brand TOFT is Edward’s Crochet Doll Emporium. She says, “It’s been designed to allow you to make all your friends and family, and then dress them up to be what they always dreamed of being when they were a child.” The interactive, flip-book mix-and-match format enables you to crochet a countless number of unique dolls! It makes it easy to build a character with the exact hairstyle, outfit, and accessories you want, so you can make your daughter in her new school uniform, or a tiny groom for your best friend’s hen party, or even your son’s favourite pop star. Or you can take a different tack and make a single perfect doll with an extraordinary wardrobe: the options include astronauts, ballerinas, football players, princesses, surgeons, wizards and more. Clear step-by-step instructions for every part of the process help even beginners to grasp all the crochet techniques, and a 30-page gallery presents a selection of finished dolls to inspire you. We defy you to look through it without a smile!
e w R ’S r Ch t Do l Em o i M R FA B KE R RY AND ’ HDE O LL! ‘M IN I-ME
M IX AN Y O U R O WDN MATCH TO C REA TE C U TE C H A R A C TE R S
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Come and join us online
SARA HUNTINGTON EDITOR
e are so thrilled to present Simply Crochet’s latest calendar! This exciting collection of mini-dolls and their fabulous outfits were designed exclusively for us by Kerry Lord of TOFT. Early this year when we were starting to plan a calendar full of doll patterns, we spoke to Kerry at a show and it became clear that we were both thinking along the same lines, as she was deep in the fun of doll-making for her book! Kerry has very generously come up with some new ideas to provide us with exclusive new dolls, accessories and outfits for the calendar. She explains, “They’re about a third of the size of the dolls in the book, so there are fewer stitches and they’re quicker and easier to make. I designed them in the summer, which was really great as it was when I was just beginning to promote the book. It reminded me about what I love about the Doll Emporium! The Simply Crochet calendar helped me get fully back into that.” You can find out more about the book, Edward’s Crochet Doll Emporium, and Kerry’s future plans in our feature in the main Simply Crochet magazine this month. Don’t forget to join in the fun by sharing pictures of your very own dolls online with us. Tag your snaps #edsdolls on social media to make sure we all see them!
W
’S h y a o Re s Ng u !
*Terms & conditions apply
You’ll get a Toft bumper kit to make 2 dolls and 4 outfits (one’s exclusive to the kit!) plus Kerry Lord’s new book, worth a huge £66.99*! See Simply Crochet magazine for details.
PS Don’t forget to join us on the Simply Crochet blog for free patterns, designer interviews, and to sign up for our newsletter! www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk
Web: www.toftuk.com Instagram & Twitter: @toft_uk Facebook: TOFT Studio Hashtags: #edsdolls #TOFTuk #edsanimals
The TOFT yarn brand was born in September 2006, a product of the successful and established Toft Alpaca Stud farm where Kerry Lord grew up. Eleven years on, TOFT is a UK leader in the manufacturing of homegrown woollen yarn and the design of DIY fashion knitting and on-trend crochet kits. Meanwhile, TOFT HQ in Warwickshire has become a destination, where Kerry has set up a shop and workshop space and where visitors can take a walk around the farm to see the alpacas.
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Advent Sunday Hannukkah
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SUNDAY
The patterns for Jumper, Trousers and Shoes are listed first, then there are guidelines and additional patterns for each month. Please note that the clothes are intended to be put onto the Doll from the bottom up, rather than over the Head.
Each Doll is made following the Basic Doll Pattern, varying the style of the hair to suit. If choosing to use safety eyes then you must add these to the Head before gathering the sts and fastening off.
As a guide to the quantities needed for each Doll, you will need approx 25g of your chosen skin tone and approx 7-15g for the hair depending on the length. A Hat needs about 10-15g, a T-shirt 7g, a Jumper/Coat 12-16g, Shorts/Trousers 5-7g and Shoes/Boots 5-7g. All quantities are approximate.
The amounts of yarn given will be enough to make 3 Dolls in Oatmeal and 1 in Chestnut, long (or short) hair in Black, Fudge and Chestnut, and short hair in Camel. It will also be enough to make all the clothes and accessories. The other shades used for the Dolls in the images are Camel, Fudge, Chestnut and Cocoa, so you will need more of these shades if you would like to use them or make more dolls.
NOTES
Make the basic doll in your chosen skin colour and hair style, then make the clothes for each month’s outfit. By Kerry Lord.
Dress-up dolls & outfits
YOU WILL NEED
DOLL BODY/HEAD Starting at base of Body.
Most patterns are worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off the round with a ss. It may help to use a stitch marker in the last stitch of each round, moving it up as you work.
Loop stitch Insert the hook through the stitch, wrap the yarn from front to back over the thumb the of your non-hook hand and yarn over with the yarn behind your thumb. Hold the loop on your thumb and complete the double crochet stitch. Moving your thumb forwards and releasing the loop to position it on the right side of the fabric, work the next stitch to secure the loop in place.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Tension is not critical to the size of this project, but the fabric needs to be dense so that the stuffing does not show. Differing tension will affect finished size and yarn quantities.
TENSION
Doll measures 22cm (8 in) tall, and all clothes and accessories are sized to fit the Doll
MEASUREMENTS
2 balls of each: Camel, Lime 1 ball of each: Blue, Cocoa, Fudge, Green, Pink, Mushroom, Orange, Shale, Steel See Note about yarn quantities Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q 1 pair of 6mm toy safety eyes per Doll (optional) Q Polyester toy filling Q Stitch marker
Q TOFT DK (100% wool, 25g/60m), 4 balls of Yellow,
Chestnut
Q TOFT DK (100% wool, 50g/112m), 1 ball of
Black, Cream, Oatmeal, Stone
Q TOFT DK (100% wool, 100g/225m), 1 ball of each:
Using yarn for skin tone of your choice, ch6. Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each of next 3 ch, 2dc in last ch, rotate and work along opposite side of ch, dc in each of next 4 ch, 2dc in next ch. [12 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [24 sts] Rounds 3-11 Dc in each st around. Round 12 (Dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog) 4 times. [20 sts] Round 13 Dc in each st around. Round 14 (Dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [24 sts] Rounds 15-18 Dc in each st around. Round 19 (Dc2tog) 4 times, dc in each of next 3 sts, (dc2tog) 4 times, dc in each of next 3 sts, dc2tog. [15 sts] Stuff with toy filling and continue. Round 20 (Dc2tog) 7 times, dc in next st. [8 sts] Round 21 Dc in each st around. Round 22 Dc in each of next 2 sts, 3dc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts. [10 sts] Round 23 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, (2dc in next st) 3 times, dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next st. [15 sts] Round 24 2dc in each st around. [30 sts] Rounds 25-26 Dc in each st around. Round 27 Dc in each of next 10 sts, (dc2tog)
ep e k to f b m tight i e m Re ion um t e am ig
Psst
FOOT/LEG MAKE 2 Using skin tone, ch9. Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each of next 6 ch, 2dc in last ch, rotate and work along opposite side of ch, dc in each of next 7 ch, 2dc in next ch. [18 sts] Rounds 2-3 Dc in each st around. Round 4 (Dc2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 6 sts, (dc2tog) 3 times. [12 sts] Round 5 (Dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 4 sts, (dc2tog) twice. [8 sts] Rounds 6-8 Dc in each st around. Stuff Foot with toy filling and continue. Round 9 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 7 sts. [9 sts] Round 10-12 Dc in each st around. Round 13 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 8 sts. [10 sts] Rounds 14-15 Dc in each st around. Fold top of Leg flat with Foot facing forwards and oversew before sewing in place on bottom of Body.
twice, dc in each of next 2 sts, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 10 sts. [26 sts] Rounds 28-31 Dc in each st around. Round 32 (Dc2tog) 13 times. [13 sts] Round 33 (Dc2tog) 6 times, dc in next st. [7 sts] Stuff Head with toy filling, gather remaining sts. Fasten off.
Ch18, ss into first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Dc in each ch around. [18 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [36 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 4 Skip next 10 sts for first armhole, dc in each of next 11 sts, skip next 10 sts for second
BODY
JUMPER
CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES
EYES Embroider eyes using a contrast yarn in Black or even Chestnut, Blue or Green.
NOSE Using skin tone, sew a nose in position with three horizontal wraps of yarn around two sts.
HAIR Using hair colour of your choice, add hair by knotting yarn around a stitch as follows: fold yarn in half to create a loop, insert hook into fabric, pull loop through and pull ends through loops. Trim to desired length and shape.
HAND/ARM MAKE 2 Using skin tone, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [9 sts] Rounds 3-6 Dc in each st around. Round 7 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 3 times. [6 sts] Stuff Hand with toy filling and continue. Rounds 8-12 Dc in each st around. Round 13 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts. [7 sts] Rounds 14-15 Dc in each st around. Round 16 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 6 sts. [8 sts] Rounds 17-21 Dc in each st around. Fold top of Arm flat and oversew before sewing in place on ‘shoulders’.
SHOES MAKE 2 Ch9. Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each of next 6 sts, 2dc in next st, rotate and work along opposite side of ch, dc in each of next 7 sts, 2dc in next st. [18 sts] Round 2 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 15 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next st. [20 sts] Rounds 3-5 Dc in each st around. Round 6 (Dc2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 8
Round 8 Dc in each of next 14 sts (these are the first set of sts), skip next 14 sts. You will now work on each set of 14 sts separately to create 2 legs. On first set of 14 sts: Rounds 9-18 Dc in each st around. Fasten off. Rejoin yarn with a ss to any st of remaining 14 sts and work second leg as follows: Round 1 Ch1, (does not count as st), dc in same st at base of ch-1, dc in each st around. [14 sts] Round 2 Dc in each st around. Continue working in rounds as Round 2, working the same number of rounds as the first Leg. Fasten off.
LEGS
TROUSERS Ch24, ss into first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Dc in first 5 sts, 2dc in next st, (dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [28 sts] Rounds 2-7 Dc in each st around, do not fasten off.
Rejoin yarn to armhole with a ss. Round 1 Ch1, (does not count as st), dc in same st at base of ch-1, dc in each st around. [10 sts] Rounds 2-13 Dc in each st around. Fasten off.
SLEEVE MAKE 2
armhole, dc in each of next 11 sts. [22 sts] Rounds 5-17 Dc in each st around. Fasten off.
BEANIE Using Blue, ch32, ss into the first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [32 sts] Rounds 2-7 Ch3 (counts as first FPtr), BPtr in next st, (FPtr in next st, BPtr in next st) 15 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. Round 8 Ch2 and tr in next st (counts as first tr2tog), (tr2tog) 15 times, ss to top of first tr. [16 sts] Round 9 Ch2 and tr in next st (counts as first tr2tog), (tr2tog) 7 times, ss to top of first tr. [8 sts]
SNOW DAY Make a Jumper in Cream and Trousers in Camel. Make Shoes in Fudge.
january
sts, (dc2tog) 3 times. [14 sts] Round 7 Dc2tog, dc in each of next 10 sts, dc2tog. [12 sts] Fasten off.
SCARF Using Blue, ch5. Row 1 (RS) Htr in third ch from hook (skipped 2 ch count as first htr), htr in each ch to end, turn. [4 sts] Rows 2-56 Ch2 (counts as first htr), htr in each of next 3 sts, turn.
Fasten off, gather sts and weave in ends.
CAP Using Pink, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (Dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 sts] Rounds 7-11 Dc in each st around. Continue by working in rows for the peak
CASUAL Use Pink to make a T-shirt, following the Jumper pattern but omitting the Sleeves. Make Shoes using Mushroom.
FEBRUARY
TO FINISH For shoelaces, sew 3 straight stitches on the Shoes with Black, using the image as a guide.
Fasten off. Cut 10 short lengths of yarn, fold in half and attach 5 to each end of scarf as follows: insert hook into st, place folded end of yarn onto hook, pull the folded end through the scarf for approx 1.5cm, then pull the cut ends through the loop.
HAT Using Stone, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (Dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 7 (Dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next st)
SPRING BUNNY Make Jumper, Trousers and Shoes using Stone.
MARCH
Locate centre 6 sts at waist of Trousers and rejoin Shale with a ss to right-most st. Work front central 6 sts as follows: Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st at base of beg ch-1, dc in each of next 5 sts, turn. [6 sts] Rows 2-4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st to end, turn. Ch10, ss into central st on back of Trousers, ch10, ss into opposite front corner of Bib. Fasten off.
DUNGAREE BIB
DUNGAREES Make Trousers using Shale, working 12 rounds before dividing for the Legs.
as follows: Row 1 Dc in next st, htr in next st, tr in each of next 5 sts, htr in next st, dc in next st, turn. [9 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in next st, htr in next st, tr in each of next 5 sts, htr in next st, dc in next st. Fasten off.
EARS MAKE 2 Using Stone, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Rounds 3-17 Dc in each st around. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the open end of the Ear and sew closed. Pinch the base of the Ear and sew to secure before sewing to the Hat.
6 times. [42 sts] Rounds 8-9 Dc in each st around. Round 10 Ch10, skip next 10 sts, ss in next st to rejoin, dc in each of next 32 sts. The ch-10 sp is an opening for putting the Hat onto the Head. Rounds 11-12 Dc in each st around. Round 13 (Dc in each of next 5 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 14 (Dc in each of next 7 sts, dc2tog) 4 times. [32 sts] Rounds 15-16 Dc in each st around. Fasten off.
Using Yellow, work as for the Hat in March, up to the end of Round 9. [42 sts] Rounds 10-12 Dc in each st around.
HOOD
MACKINTOSH Make a Jumper with Yellow, working the Body from Rounds 5-25. When making the Sleeves, work the last 3 rounds of each Sleeve in Black. Add the stitched detail to the front of Mackintosh with Black using the image as a guide.
PUDDLE JUMPING Make Boots as for Shoes in Black, working an extra 3 rounds on the final 12 sts.
APRIL
TAIL Using Cream, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 Dc in each st around. Fasten off. Gather sts and sew into place at centre back of Trousers.
PLAY TIME HEADBAND Using Chestnut, ch35, ss into first ch to join into a ring.
JUNE
BOOTS/SOCKS Work as for Shoes using Black, then change to Cream and work 3 rounds on the final 12 sts, change to Green and work 1 round, then change back to Cream for 1 round.
FOOTBALL Make a T-shirt as for the Jumper, using Cream for the Body, and working only 3 rounds for each Sleeve using Green. Make Shorts as for the Trousers using Green, but work only 3 rounds for each Leg.
MAY
Round 13 (Dc in each of next 6 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [48 sts] Rounds 14-15 Dc in each st around. Fasten off and sew to back neck of Mackintosh.
DRESS Make the Body only of the Jumper using Camel, up to the end of Round 5. [22 sts] Rounds 6-10 Dc in each st around. Round 11 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 11 times. [33 sts] Rounds 12-27 Dc in each st around. Rounds 28-29 Dc in each st around and work Loop st for every other st. Fasten off. Make 6 flowers as for the Headband, 3 in Yellow, 3 in Orange, and sew around the bottom of the Dress using the image as a guide. Sew a line of stitching around the neckline using Orange.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in each st around, ss in first dc. [35 sts] Fasten off. Work 3 flowers (2 in Yellow, 1 in Orange) as follows: Ch4, dc in first ch, (ch3, dc in same ch as first dc) 5 times. Fasten off. Sew to the front of the Headband using the image as a guide.
HEADBAND Using Cream, ch30, ss into first ch to join into
TENNIS Using Cream, make a T-shirt following the Jumper pattern, omitting the Sleeves. Make Shorts as for the Trousers using Cream, but work only 3 rounds for each Leg. Make Shoes using Cream.
JULY
SHOES MAKE 2 Work as for the Shoes pattern in Camel, adding the following extra round on each Shoe: Round 8 Dc in each st around and work Loop st in every other st. Fasten off.
SNORKEL Using Yellow, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Rounds 2-4 Dc in each st around. Round 5 Ss in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 4 sts. Round 6 Ss in each of next 2 sts, dc in next st, htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in next st. Rounds 7-21 Dc in each st around. Fasten off. MASK Using Yellow, ch20, ss into first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 26dc into the ring. Ch4 and ss into opposite side to create two eye holes, fasten off. Rejoin yarn to side of one eyehole with ss, ch20 and ss to opposite side to create strap. Fasten off.
SCUBA Make Trunks as for the Trousers using Black, but work only 2 rounds for each Leg.
AUGUST
a ring. Round 1 (RS) Dc in each st around, ss in first dc. [30 sts] Fasten off.
BACK TO SCHOOL Make a Jumper using Green, and Shoes using Black. Make Shorts as for the Trousers using Steel, but work only 4 rounds for each Leg. Alternatively make a Skirt, as below. CREST Using Cream, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Fasten off and sew into position on the Jumper. COLLAR Using Cream, join with a ss into front central st of Jumper, ch3 (counts as first tr), now work into sts around edge of neckline as follows: tr in next st, htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 10 sts,
SEPTEMBER
FLIPPERS MAKE 2 Make Shoes using Yellow. Beginning on front left-hand side of Shoe, rejoin yarn and ch7, turn to work back towards the Shoe. Row 1 Tr in second ch from hook, tr in next ch, htr in each of next 2 ch, dc in each of next 2 ch, ss in next st of Shoe, turn. Row 2 Dc in first 2 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, turn, ch1. Repeat (Rows 1 and 2) twice more, omitting final ch1 on last repeat. Fasten off.
BIKINI TOP Using Black, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [9 sts] Fasten off. Repeat to make another piece the same but do not fasten off, instead ch2 then ss to opposite piece to join. Using Black, create a neck strap with approx 10 ch and join to Bikini Top. Make 2 back straps with 12 ch and attach to each side.
MONSTER Make a Jumper, Trousers and Shoes using Lime. HOOD Using Lime, work as for the Hat in March up to the end of Round 9. [42 sts] Rounds 10-12 Dc in each st around. Round 13 (Dc in each of next 5 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [36 sts] Fasten off and sew to back neck of Jumper.
OCTOBER
SKIRT Using Steel, ch24, ss into first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in each of next 23 ch, ss around post of beg ch-3 to join. [24 sts] Rounds 2-7 Ch2 (counts as FPtr), BPtr in next st, (FPtr in next st, BPtr in next st) to end, ss around post of of beg ch-3. Fasten off.
htr in each of next 2 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts. Fasten off.
EYE Using Cream make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Change to Lime. Rounds 3-5 Dc in each st around. Round 6 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts] Rounds 7-15 Dc in each st around. Fasten off and add pupil with Black using image as a guide.
TIES MAKE 2 Using Orange, ch5. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end. [4 sts] Rows 2-5 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st to end, turn. Row 6 Ch1, dc in each of next 3 sts, turn leaving
BANDANA Using Orange, work as for the Hat in March up to the end of Round 6. [36 sts] Rounds 7-11 Dc in each st around. Round 11 (Dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts] Fasten off.
PIRATE Make a Jumper, with alternating rounds of Black and Cream. Make Shorts as for the Trousers using Camel, with only 3 rounds for each Leg. Make Boots as for Shoes using Cocoa, working 4 extra rounds on the final 12 sts.
NOVEMBER
SANDALS MAKE 2 Using Camel, ch9. Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each of next 6 sts, 2dc in next st, rotate and work along opposite side of ch, dc in each of next 7 sts, 2dc in next st. [18 sts] Round 2 Dc in each of next 5 sts, ch7 and attach to other side of shoe with ss. Fasten off.
TIES MAKE 2 Using Chestnut, ch51. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. [50 sts] Fasten off. Tie one around Headdress and one around Robe.
HEADDRESS Using Cream, work as for the Hat in March up to the end of Round 6. [36 sts] Rounds 7-11 Dc in each st around. Continue to work in rows. Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each of next 26 sts, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. Rows 2-22 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off.
SHEPHERD For the Robe, make a Jumper in Cream working Body rounds from 5-29.
DECEMBER
last st unworked. [3 sts] Row 7 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 8 Ch1, dc in each of next 2 sts, fasten off leaving last st unworked. Sew onto base of Bandana.
5 12 19 26
6 13 20 27
7 14 21 28
7 14 21 28
4 11 18 25
3 10 17 24
2 9 16 23 30
1 8 15 22 29
T
1 8 15 22 29
S
M
F
S
T
T
M
W
W
T
2 9 16 23 30
W
3 10 17 24 31
T
1 5 6 7 8 12 13 14 15 19 20 21 22 26 27 28
MAY
7 14 21 28
T
APRIL
3 4 5 6 10 11 12 13 17 18 19 20 24 25 26 27 31
S
2 9 16 23 30
S
1 8 15 22 29
F
M
T
T
M
W
FEBRUARY
JANUARY
4 11 18 25
F
2 9 16 23
F
5 12 19 26
S
3 10 17 24
S
6 13 20 27
S
4 11 18 25
S
2018 Calendar 6 13 20 27
T
4 11 18 25
M
5 12 19 26
T
JUNE
5 12 19 26
M
MARCH
6 13 20 27
W
7 14 21 28
W
7 14 21 28
S
2 9 16 23 30
1 8 15 22 29
3 10 17 24 31
S
F
2 9 16 23 30
1 8 15 22 29
T
F
T
3 10 17 24
S
4 11 18 25
S
3 10 17 24 31
4 11 18 25
5 12 19 26
6 13 20 27
S
7 14 21 28
S
5 12 19 26
6 13 20 27
T
7 14 21 28
W
T
1 8 15 22 29
2 9 16 23 30
F
1 8 15 22 29
T
M
W
T
7 14 21 28
M
7 14 21 28
NOVEMBER
6 13 20 27
T
2 9 16 23 30
OCTOBER
5 12 19 26
6 13 20 27
4 11 18 25
3 10 17 24 31
1 8 15 22 29
W
2 9 16 23 30
T
1 8 15 22 29
S
M
F
S
T
T
M
W
AUGUST
JULY
2 9 16 23 30
F
3 10 17 24 31
F
3 10 17 24
S
4 11 18 25
S
4 11 18 25
S
5 12 19 26
S
4 11 18 25
T
5 12 19 26
W
3 10 17 24 31
M
4 11 18 25
T
5 12 19 26
W
DECEMBER
3 10 17 24
M
T
6 13 20 27
T
6 13 20 27
SEPTEMBER
7 14 21 28
F
7 14 21 28
F
S
2 9 16 23 30
1 8 15 22 29
2 9 16 23 30
1 8 15 22 29
S
S
S
JANUARY
JUNE
FEBRUARY
NOVEMBER
JULY
MARCH
DECEMBER
AUGUST
APRIL
2018 Calendar
MAY
OCTOBER
Su e Cu e Pa t r S
SEPTEMBER
In l Di g