Crochet Stitch Collection by Maika Sadith

Crochet Stitch

Hello!

NEW TECHNIQUES, BEAUTIFUL PATTERNS

Editor: Sara Huntington Managing Editor: Charlotte Martyn Art Editors: Rob Eyres, Julian Dace Production Editor: Helen Dorritt Simply Crochet Editorial Team Editor-in-Chief: Debora Bradley Senior Art Editor: Louise Day Art Editor: Charlene Lim Deputy Art Editor: Kim Saunders Commissioning Editor: Sara Huntington Production Editor: Becca Parker Technical Assistant: Cara Medus Photography: Joseph Branston, Neil Godwin, Philip Sowels, Jesse Wild

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here’s nothing more satisfying than learning a new stitch. Whether you’re an experienced crocheter or a relative newcomer, finding a new texture or pattern is always exciting – not least because of all the great new projects you can try. This collection of stitch patterns and step-by-step guides from the Simply Crochet team is AN INDISPENSABLE GUIDE to help you expand your repertoire and enhance your skills. We’ve split the stitches into three chapters: TEXTURE (p7), COLOUR (p47) and LACE (p73). From chunky popcorn and fun bobble stitch to elegant mesh, multicoloured gingham and pretty tulip stitch, there’s something here for everyone. And every stitch is accompanied by a selection of projects so you can put your new skills into practice. We’ve also included six WORKSHOPS to help you master techniques such as filet (p114), broomstick (p80) and hairpin (p98) crochet – with more beautiful projects to try, of course. Have fun finding your favourite new stitch!

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NEW TECHNIQUES, BEAUTIFUL PATTERNS

92 Block ‘n’ roll

108 Shell edginG DiscoVer tExture 8

4 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

RIB STITCH Hook up a blooming marvellous set of garden accessories. 10 BASKET WEAVE STITCH Stay warm in winter with a cosy hat, muffler and cowl. 12 STAR STITCH Transform teatime with a mug hug, tea cosy and potholder. 16 TULIP STITCH Hook a trio of desk accessories in this pretty slanted stitch. 18 LONG WAVE STITCH Be inspired by the seaside with a bag, clutch and purse. 22 BACK LOOP STITCH Cool glow-in-the-dark accessories for safe cycling. 24 FRONT & BACK LOOP WORKSHOP Become a pro with our step-bystep guide to these stitches.

30 RUFFLE STITCH Great gifts to hook.

32 PUFF STITCH Add some texture to your makes. 36 BOBBLE STITCH A headband, mitts and cowl using this distinctive pattern. 38 POPCORN STITCH A set of three adorable projects to keep little ones cosy. 42 CABLE WORKSHOP Learn how to master the art of crocheted cables.

DiscoveR ColOuR 48

PATCHWORK STITCH Make some crafty accessories. 52 TWEED STITCH Decorate your house with these two-tone homewares. 56 SPIKE STITCH COLOURWORK WORKSHOP Three different shade patterns.

8 90

12 A real Star StitcH 62 EYELASH STITCH Combine this funky stitch with ombré hues. 66 CATHERINE WHEEL STITCH Projects to liven up your work day. 68 GINGHAM STITCH Brighten a picnic basket.

DiscoveR Lace 74

FAN AND TRELLIS A trio of vintage-inspired boudoir accessories. 78 MESH STITCH Hook a shawl, bag and belt. 80 BROOMSTITCH CROCHET WORKSHOP Learn to create loopy lace. 90 PEEPHOLE CHEVRON Craft a set of pretty makes for your bathroom. 92 BLOCK STITCH A cushion, legwarmers and blanket in vibrant hues.

22 96 KROLLER STITCH Hook some spa accessories. 98 HAIRPIN CROCHET WORKSHOP A fun technique to produce lacy braids of crochet. 108 SHELL EDGING Embellish ready-made items with this gorgeous stitch. 112 RIC RAC STITCH A delicate bridal set of a garter, comb and bracelet. 114 FILET CROCHET WORKSHOP Learn how to hook lacets, bars and more.

EssenTials 125 THE GUIDE Step-by-step pictures to take you through all the techniques and basic stitches that you’ll need.

75 Pa

t T e rn s to Make!

74 112

CONTRIBUTORS Emma Clegg, Hannah Cross, Elizabeth Davis de Herraiz, Anne Egan, Becky Garratt, Ruth Maddock, Val Pierce, Becky Skuse, Kath Webber

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 5

Discover texture From ribs to rufles, learn how to create fantastically touchable crochet fabric.

3 2 PROJECTS TO CROCHET TODAY!

lour mix texture & co with puff stitch!

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 7

riB stitcH dou t u P

to good use and create this ra t e h c o r ised b le c

Simple but effective, rib stitch is a great one to have in your repertoire â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all you need to do is make a row of double crochet, followed by one of slip stitches. Easy!

BASIC RIB STITCH PATTERN Pattern Ch any number of sts. Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn.

text

ure .

Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), ss in each st across, turn. Rows 1 and 2 form the pattern. Patterns by Louise Smith.

rib stitch

Twine is handy in the garden in more ways than one. Why not hook our rib stitch accessories with it?

For flowerpots that might be feeling a little under-appreciated.

Yep, in the eyes of a crocheter, pretty much everything needs a cosy.

apRon pOcket

flOwerpOt cosY

liTtle Seed KeepeR

You’ll be the envy of the allotment with this baby strapped around your waist. Deep pockets within easy reach are so useful when you’re busy weeding and whatnot. This simple pocket keeps both your hands free.

Rustic hemp cord is ideal for hooking a summery cosy for a plant pot. This project is a sweet way of adding a personal touch to a gift, or sprucing up your collection of house plants.

It all starts with a single seed, so grab your hook and trusty gardening twine and stitch something a little outdoorsy. A dinky pouch to keep special packets of seeds neat and tidy makes the perfect handmade gift for a green-fingered friend. Keen gardener yourself? Whether you’re sowing window boxes, a vegetable patch or some serious acreage, you’ll be digging our nifty seed keeper.

Q Hemptique Hemp Cord Q Hemptique Hemp Cord

(100% hemp, 25g/62.5m), 3 spools of Green, 1 spool of Brown Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q Apron, 60x33cm (23½x13in) Q Sewing needle and matching thread MEASUREMENTS 60x16cm (23½x 6¼in) APRON POCKET With Green, ch24. *Work 40 rows of main stitch pattern. Change to Brown. Work 6 rows of main stitch pattern. Repeat from * once more. Change to Green. Work 40 rows of main stitch pattern. Fasten off and weave in ends. Join Brown in any stitch and htr evenly around, working 3htr in each corner. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO MAKE UP Sew pockets onto apron, sewing down centre of brown sections to create the pockets.

(100% hemp, 25g/62.5m), 1 spool of each: Green, Brown Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q 3 buttons (1.5cm diameter) MEASUREMENTS 37x8cm (14½x3in) ABBREVIATIONS Ch-5 picot Ch5, ss in the first of these ch FLOWERPOT COSY With Green, ch12. Work 58 rows of main stitch pattern, alternating between Green and Brown every 2 rows. Fasten off. With RS facing, join Brown in any st. With Brown and RS facing, htr evenly around cosy, working 3htr in each corner. Along one short edge of cosy work 3 ch-5 picots evenly along edge and continue with htr edging. These picots form the button loops. TO MAKE UP Sew buttons onto other short edge, matching placement of picots.

Q Hemptique Hemp Cord

(100% hemp, 25g/62.5m), 1 spool of each: Green, Brown This twine is available from www.amazon.co.uk Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q Tapestry needle MEASUREMENTS 10x13cm (4x5in) SEED KEEPER (MAKE 2) With Brown, ch16, change to Green, ch6. Work 22 rows of main stitch pattern, changing to Brown after first 6 sts on a RS row and back to Green after first 16 sts on a WS row. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO MAKE UP With RS together, seam along 3 sides leaving one short end open and turn right way out. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 9

W t e e k ave S a b

Com

nt and back treble posts in this c o r f r u lever ine yo

Intermediate crocheters will love creating this beautifully warm woven fabric, which is ideal for cosy makes to keep winter chills at bay. BASIC BASKET WEAVE STITCH PATTERN The stitch pattern is worked over a

multiple of 8 sts. For this sample, we used 24 sts. Ch26. Row 1 (RS) Starting in the fourth ch from hook, tr in each ch across, turn. [24 tr] Rows 2-4 Ch2 (does not count as tr),

stitc h.

(1FPtr around each of next 4 sts, 1BPtr around each of next 4 sts) to end, turn. Rows 5-7 Ch2 (does not count as tr), (BPtr around each of next 4 sts, FPtr around each of next 4 sts) to end, turn. Rows 2-7 set pattern. Patterns by Kath Webber.

basket weave

Stay warm in style this winter with our three fur-trimmed makes using brilliant basket weave stitch.

Started a hat but not finished it? Give it the basket weave treatment.

We’re bringing foxy back. Combining faux fur with cosy tweed is the secret.

hanD muFfler

teXtureD haT

clAssic cowL

Keep fingers cosy with this retro muff à la Julie Christie in Dr Zhivago.

Give a classic winter warmer a fresh feel with basket weave texture.

Keep warm with this soft and cosy cowl for crisp winter mornings.

Q Debbie Bliss Donegal Luxury Tweed

Aran (90% wool, 10% angora, 50g/88m), 2 balls of Gold (36) Q King Cole Luxe Fur (100% nylon, 100g/110m), 1 ball of Polar (1040) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook

Aran (90% wool, 10% angora, 50g/88m), 2 balls of Gold (36) Q King Cole Luxe Fur (100% nylon, 100g/110m), 1 ball of Polar (1040) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook For yarn stockists, contact Designer Yarns www.designeryarns.uk.com and King Cole www.kingcole.com

MEASUREMENTS 28cm (11in) wide, 30cm (11¾in) circumf

MEASUREMENTS 18cm (7in) high, 53cm (20¾in) circumf

MUFF Worked from side to side. Using tweed yarn, ch48, ss to first ch, being careful not to twist. When working basic patt, at the end of each round, ss to first st and do not turn. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into each st around, ss to beg ch-3. [48 sts] Rounds 2-29 Work in basic pattern. Fasten off tweed yarn, join fur yarn. Rounds 30-31 Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into each st around, ss to beg ch-3. Fasten off.

BOBBLE HAT Using tweed yarn, ch4, join with a ss to form a ring. When working basic patt, at the end of each round, ss to first st and do not turn. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), 11tr into ring, ss to beg ch-3 to join. [12 sts] Rounds 2-6 Work 5 more rounds in tr, increasing evenly by 12 sts on each round. [72 sts] Rounds 7-18 Ch2 (does not count as tr), work in basic patt for 12 rounds. Fasten off tweed yarn, join fur yarn. Round 19 Ch1 (does not count as dc), 1dc into each st around, ss to first dc to join. Rounds 20-23 Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into each st around, ss to beg ch-3. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

EDGING Rejoin fur yarn to any st of foundation ch and work as for Rounds 30 and 31 above. Fasten off and weave in ends. CORD Fasten a single strand of yarn to each side of the Muff, or make a chain.

Make a 6.5cm-diameter pompom with fur yarn and attach to top of hat.

MEASUREMENTS 20cm (7¾in) high, 60cm (23½in) circumference COWL Using tweed yarn, ch96, ss to first ch, being careful not to twist. When working basic patt, at the end of each round, ss to first st and do not turn. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into each st around, ss to beg ch-3. [96 sts] Rounds 2-18 Work in basic pattern. Fasten off tweed yarn, join fur yarn. Rounds 19-20 Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into each st around, ss to beg ch-3. Fasten off. Rejoin fur yarn to any st of foundation ch. Edging round 1 Ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr into each ch around, ss to beg ch-3. Edging round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into each st around, ss to beg ch-3. Fasten off and weave in all ends. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 11

staR stItch chet shine bright with this pretty o r c r u patte e yo rn. Mak

star stitch

Also known as marguerite or daisy stitch, or a spiked cluster, star stitch creates a thick, dense fabric. BASIC STAR STITCH PATTERN Work an odd number of chains. Row 1 (RS) Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yrh and pull up loop, (insert hook into next ch, yrh and pull up loop) 4 times, yrh, pull through all 6 loops on hook, ch1 to create centre of star, *insert hook into centre of star, yrh and pull up loop, insert hook through last loop of prev star, yrh and pull up loop, insert hook in same ch as last loop of prev star, yrh and pull up loop, (insert hook in next ch, yrh and pull up loop) twice, yrh and pull through all 6 loops on hook, ch1 to create centre of star; rep from * across to last ch, htr into last ch, turn. Row 2 Ch2 (counts as htr), 2htr into centre of next star and each star across to end, htr into last st, turn. Row 3 Ch3, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yrh and pull up loop, insert hook into 3rd ch from hook, yrh and pull up loop, insert hook into first st, yrh and pull up loop, (insert hook into next st, yrh and pull up loop) twice, yrh, pull through all 6 loops on hook, ch1 to create centre of star, *insert hook into centre of star, yrh and pull up loop, insert hook through last loop of prev star, yrh and pull up loop, insert hook in same st as last loop of prev star, yrh and pull up loop, (insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop) twice, yrh and pull through all 6 loops on hook, ch1 to create centre of star; rep from * across to last st, htr into top of beg ch-2, turn. Rows 2-3 set pattern.

niFty mUg hugS peRfect pothOlder Once youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve TriEd the BasIc PatTern, ExpErImeNt With ColOurs to AchIeve CleVer StrIped, SpoTted and OmbrĂ&#x2030; EffEcts

teMptinG tea cosy

Patterns by Kath Webber.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 13

Textured star stitch makes a fab trio of teatime treats. Use contrasting colours for real pizzazz.

star stitch Not just a pretty face, – this chap is made to handle hot stuff.

Pink and orange – who knew it would be such a perfect combo?

teMptinG tea cosy peRfect pothOlder

niFty mUg hugS

Show tea the respect it deserves!

Team your fave new tea cosy with a matching set of cup cosies. They’ll help to keep your cuppa piping hot.

Don’t get caught out without one.

Q Cascade 220 Superwash (100% wool,

100g/200m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Blaze (9542) Yarn B Strawberry Cream (0894) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q A 1.5cm button and matching thread

100g/200m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Blaze (9542) Yarn B Strawberry Cream (0894) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook

TEA COSY To fit a 2-cup teapot measuring approx 40cm (15¾in) circumference. Using Yarn B, ch29. Work 9 rows of Basic Star Stitch Pattern, ending on a Row 3. Fasten off. Make a second identical piece, but do not fasten off. On the next row, work across the top of both cosy pieces to join into the round: Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), 2htr into each star centre, htr in base of beg ch-2, ss to top of beg ch-2. Fasten off. [54 htr] Rounds 1-4 Using Yarn A, work htr in the round, decreasing by 9 sts evenly on each round. [18 htr after Round 4] Round 5 Decrease by 6 sts evenly. [12 sts] Round 6 Ch1, (htr2tog) 6 times. Fasten off. Rejoin Yarn A in foundation ch of Yarn B piece, with RS facing. Ch1 and dc in each st across both sides of cosy to join the two pieces at one side. Turn, ch1 and work a second row of dc. Ch6, ss to first ch to form chain loop for button. Fasten off. Sew on button opposite chain loop.

MEASUREMENTS 18x18cm (7x7in) POTHOLDER Using Yarn A, ch37. Rows 1-3 Work Rows 1-3 as given for Basic Star Stitch Pattern. Rows 4-19 Rep (Rows 2-3) 8 more times. Row 20 Repeat Row 2. Fasten off. Join Yarn B in bottom corner st. Rnd 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), (3dc into corner st, dc evenly along edge to next corner) 4 times, ss to first dc join. Rnd 2 Ch1 (counts as dc), 3dc into next st for corner, 1dc into each st along edge to next corner, ch8 for hanging loop, skip 1dc, (1dc into each st along edge to next corner, 3dc into corner st) twice, 1dc into each st to end, ss to first dc to join. Rnd 3 Ch1 (counts as dc), 1dc into next st, 3dc into next st, 1dc into each st along edge to next corner, 10dc into ch-8 loop, (1dc into each st along edge to next corner, 3dc into next st) twice, 1dc into each st to end, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block lightly.

Q Cascade 220 Superwash (100% wool,

100g/200m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Blaze (9542) Yarn B Strawberry Cream (0894) For stockists, contact Deramores 0800 488 0708 www.deramores.com Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook MEASUREMENTS 23x8cm (9x3in) before seaming MUG HUG Using Yarn B, ch55, leaving a 15cm tail for sewing up. Rows 1-3 Work Rows 1-3 as given for Basic Star Stitch Pattern. Rows 4-9 Rep (Rows 2-3) 3 more times. Row 10 Repeat Row 2. Fasten off, leaving a 15cm tail for sewing. With RS tog, align the short edges and sew tog the ends of the first 2 rows. Fasten off. Using the tail at the opposite end, sew tog the ends of the last 2 rows. Fasten off. *Join Yarn A at seam of last row, ch1 (does not count as st), dc into each st around, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off. Rep from * at starting edge, working in rem loops of foundation chain. Weave in all ends. Make a second mug hug, reversing Yarns A and B. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 15

Tulip stitch Âžorals when you try this beautif h t i w ul sti fu n tch. Have

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clusters of treble and double crochet that create these gorgeous rows of tulips. Blooming lovely! BASIC SHELL STITCH PATTERN Ch a multiple of 4 stitches plus 1 (we used 25 ch on the sample above).

Row 1 (RS) Ch3, 3tr in the fourth ch from the hook, *skip 3 ch, dc in the next ch, ch3, 3tr in the same ch as the last dc; repeat from * to the last ch, dc in the last ch, turn. Row 2 Ch3, 3tr in dc, *dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch3, 3tr in same ch-3 sp;

repeat from * to the last ch-3 sp, dc in the last ch-3 sp, turn. Row 2 forms pattern. Repeat Row 2 as stated in each pattern. Patterns by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz.

tulip stitch

Create too-cool-forschool accessories using this slanted tulip stitch.

It’s the perfect size for stowing hooks and notions, too.

A greener, hookier alternative to the humble paper bag.

noTebooK coveR

Nifty luncH bag

Jazzy peNcil Case

Fab for keeping scribbles top secret.

This pretty cotton lunch pouch is washable and re-usable – no need for plastic bags or big, clunky boxes for carrying weekday sarnies to and fro.

A brand new pencil case is a great way to mark the start of any school term. Hook this funky design in any combination of shades.

Q Rico Creative Cotton Print (Aran) (100%

cotton, 50g/85m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Multicolour (003), Yarn B Sky Blue (37) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook MEASUREMENTS 38x22cm (15x8½in) opened out MAIN PIECE (MAKE 2) Using Yarn A, ch29. Rows 1-9 Foll Basic Pattern, repeating Row 2 until there are 9 rows. Fasten off. Rows 10-11 With Yarn B, as Row 2. Rows 12-15 With Yarn A, as Row 2. Fasten off. INSIDE FLAP (MAKE 2) Attach Yarn A with ss to bottom-righthand corner of long side. Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 29dc evenly along long side, turn. Rows 3-5 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in each dc, turn. Fasten off. TO MAKE UP On both pieces, fold in inside flap, and with Yarn B, work 1 dc in each tr and ch-sp along top edge, working through both layers to join when you reach flap. Fasten off. Dc evenly along bottom, work through both layers for flap. Fasten off. Using Yarn B, dc long sides of 2 main pieces tog. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Q Rico Creative Cotton Print (Aran)

(100% cotton, 50g/85m), 1 ball of Yarn A Multicolour (003) 2 balls of Yarn B Sky Blue (37) For yarn stockists, contact Rico www.rico-design.co.uk Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Peg or clip to close

(100% cotton, 50g/85m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Multicolour (003) Yarn B Sky Blue (37) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Zip (18cm/7in) and matching thread Q Sewing needle

MEASUREMENTS 24x24cm (9½x9½in) MAIN PIECE (MAKE 2) Using Yarn B, ch37. Rows 1-19 Follow Basic pattern, repeating Row 2 until there are a total of 19 rows. Fasten off. SIDE/BOTTOM PIECE Using Yarn A, ch13. Rows 1-55 Follow Basic pattern, repeating Row 2 until there are a total of 55 rows. Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Whip stitch the side/bottom strip to the side pieces. Attach Yarn B to top opening of bag, dc in each tr and ch-sp around, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

MEASUREMENTS 20x11cm (7¾x4¼in) MAIN PIECE (MAKE 2) Using Yarn A, ch25. Rows 1-3 Follow Basic pattern, repeating Row 2 until there are a total of 3 rows. Fasten off. Row 4 Repeat Row 2 with Yarn B. Fasten off. Rows 5-7 Repeat Row 2 with Yarn A, turn. Rows 8-9 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each stitch across, turn. Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Using Yarn B, double crochet the two pieces together along the side, bottom and other side, leaving the top open. Fasten off, sew in zip and weave in ends. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 17

v e a S W t i g t n ch o L with this gorgeously laidback h c a e b a stitch Lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s .

long wave stitch

It’s easy to see where this stitch got its name – just looking at it evokes the feeling of being on the beach and watching the waves rippling against the shore. Designer Kath Webber has further enhanced this idea with her choice of yarn in beautiful shades of blue, green and indigo to create her three seaside-themed projects. With its combo of four different stitches to create the overall effect, long wave stitch is recommended for intermediate crocheters who are looking for a challenge. The solid fabric created is ideal for bags and purses, as shown here.

shOrelinE toTe baG deEp seA clUtch baG

BASIC LONG WAVE STITCH PATTERN The stitch pattern is worked over a multiple of 12 sts plus 1. For the sample, we used 25 sts. Ch26. Row 1 (WS) Starting in second ch from hook, *1dc into next st, 1htr into each of next 2 sts, 1tr into each of next 2 sts, 1dtr into each of next 3 sts, 1tr into each of next 2 sts, 1htr into each of next 2 sts, 1dc into next st; rep from * to end, turn. Row 2 Ch4 (counts as dtr), *1tr into each of next 2 sts, 1htr into each of next 2 sts, 1dc into each of next 3 sts, 1htr into each of next 2 sts, 1tr into each of next 2 sts, 1dtr into next st; rep from * to end, turn. Rows 1 and 2 set pattern.

it’s the DifFeRent HeiGhts of the Four StiTches Used That CreAtes the WonDeRfuLly RipPled EffEct of Long Wave StiTch

caTch a wave pursE

Patterns by Kath Webber.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 19

Get to grips with pretty long wave stitch to hook a trio of stylish accessories in variegated stripes.

long wave stitch At last, a clutch that will fit your phone, purse and keys.

Penny for your thoughts? Just popit in the purse, please.

shOrelinE toTe baG caTch a wave pursE deEp seA clUtch baG Hook yourself a roomy shopper.

Use a metal frame clasp to create this dinky purse for your loose change.

When a handbag just won’t do, opt for a clutch with a practical handle.

Q Scheepjeswol Invicta Colour (75% wool,

25% polyamide, 100g/420m), 3 balls of Yarn A 965 (use 3 strands held together) Q Scheepjeswol Invicta Extra (75% wool, 25% polyamide, 50g/210m), 3 balls of Yarn B 1463 (use 3 strands together) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook MEASUREMENTS 37.5x40cm (14¾x15¾in) TOTE BAG Using 3 strands of Yarn A, ch50. Rows 1-25 Foll Basic Patt. [49 sts] Row 26 Change to 3 strands of Yarn B, cont in patt, turn. Rows 27-44 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr into each st across, turn. Row 45 As Row 1 of Basic Patt. Row 46 Change to 3 strands of Yarn A, work Row 2 of Basic Patt, turn. Row 47-69 Cont in patt. Row 70 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), tr into each st to end. Fasten off. STRAPS Using 3 strands of Yarn B, make 2 straps 5 dc stitches wide and 60cm long. TO MAKE UP Fold main piece in half widthways, and dc edges tog using 3 strands of matching yarn. Sew straps on securely.

Q Scheepjeswol Invicta Colour (75% wool,

25% polyamide, 100g/420m), 2 balls of Yarn A 965 For yarn stockists, contact Deramores 0800 488 0708 www.deramores.com Q Scheepjeswol Invicta Extra (75% wool, 25% polyamide, 50g/210m), 2 balls of Yarn B 1463 Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q Purse clasp, 6cm wide Q Strong glue

25% polyamide, 100g/420m), 2 balls of shade 965 Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q Cotton fabric, 30x50cm (11¾x19½in) Q Matching thread and needle Q Magnetic clasp, 18mm diameter MEASUREMENTS 28x43cm (11x17in) before joining

MEASUREMENTS 7.5x8cm (3x3¼in) (without frame)

CLUTCH BAG Ch50. Working into back loops only, work as given for Basic Patt for 45 rows. Do not fasten off.

COIN PURSE Using Yarn B, ch16. Work follows Basic Stitch Patt but with an extra st at both ends of each row: Row 1 (WS) Dc into second ch from hook, work Row 1 of Basic Stitch Pattern, dc into last st, turn. [15 sts] Row 2 Change to Yarn A, ch4 (counts as dtr), work Row 2 of Basic Stitch Pattern, replacing beg ch-4 with dtr, dtr into last st, turn. [15 sts] Change to Yarn B. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 15 rows have been worked in total. Fasten off. With RS tog, match up side edges and ss the sides together. Turn right side out. Glue piece into the purse clasp to finish.

Cut lining fabric to same size as flat piece, fold 1cm to WS on each edge and press. Pin lining and crochet piece WS tog. Fold bag into thirds (one third for flap and two thirds for bag section to be seamed tog). Mark position of fastening. Attach clasp to lining and crochet pieces. Sew lining in place. Fold up bottom third of bag, with fabric tog. Make a dc seam from bottom up to join on 1 side. When you reach top of seam, turn and work 4dc down side of bag. Turn and cont working in rows on these 4 sts until strap meas 25cm, ss to opposite side of bag. Join seam with dc on other side of bag. Fasten off. Weave in ends. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 21

O p o s l t k I tch C a b py for this stretchy, ribbed croch o o l e r â&#x20AC;&#x2122; et! We

The simple act of crocheting into the back loops of your stitches creates an elastic fabric with a lot of give, making back loop stitch perfect for hats and other items that benefit from a little stretch.

BASIC BACK LOOP STITCH PATTERN Ch15 or number stated in pattern. Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. Row 2 Working in back loops only:

ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Repeat Row 2 the number of times stated in pattern. Fasten off. Patterns by Louise Smith.

back loop stitch Use reflective yarn to make high-vis active accessories. Back loop crochet adds scrummy texture.

Caution – hookster at work. It doesn’t get much more urban than a street sign.

Wear your crochet heart on your sleeve and be shamelessly visible.

noTice Me keY rinG brIght On beAnie

ouT theRe arM banD

Clip this bold, reflective dangler to your bag when you’re out running or cycling to make sure you’re seen.

A single stripe helps this arm band stand out. Be sure to make yours big enough to fit on your upper arm over a jacket or jumper, then let it shine.

This chunky beanie hat is worked flat without shaping and pulled together at the top afterwards. And no hat is complete without a fluffy pompom.

Q Rico Design Creative Glowworm

(54% acrylic, 30% wool, 16% glass fibre, 100g/110m), 1 ball of each: Coral (004) Azure (006) Q A 6mm (US J/10) hook Q A key ring loop MEASUREMENTS 10x11cm (4x4¼in) without key ring loop KEYRING PIECE (MAKE 2) With Coral, ch10. Row 1 As Row 1 of Basic Patt. [10 dc] Row 2 Working in back loops only: dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog. [8 dc] Repeat Row 2 until you have 2 sts remaining, dc2tog. Fasten off. With Azure, embroider an exclamation mark onto the RS of both pieces. Join pieces with WS together using Azure and a dc seam (work 3 dc into each corner). Join Coral in top stitch of key ring and ch5. Hold the key ring loop in place, just below the first ch on the hook and ss in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. Make sure you trap the key ring loop in the first ss. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Q Rico Design Creative Glowworm

(54% acrylic, 30% wool, 16% glass fibre, 100g/110m), 2 balls of Coral (004), 1 ball of Azure (006) Q A 8mm (US L/11) hook Q A large pompom maker (optional)

(54% acrylic, 30% wool, 16% glass fibre, 100g/110m), 1 ball of each: Coral (004) Azure (006) For yarn stockists, contact Rico www.rico-design.co.uk Q A 6mm (US J/10) hook

TENSION 9sts and 6 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over back loop stitch using 2 strands of yarn and an 8mm hook or size needed to achieve stated tension MEASUREMENTS 24cm (9½in) deep without pompom, approx 48cm (19in) circumference (will stretch to fit larger head circumference) HAT With Coral and Azure held together, ch20. Rows 1-36 Work Back Loop stitch pattern. [20 dc] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing up. Using the long tail, join together the ends of the work to form a tube. Then weave yarn through each st around top of tube and pull tightly. Weave in all ends and attach a large pompom in Coral, if desired.

MEASUREMENTS 7cm (2¾in) wide and approx 26cm (10¼in) circumference ARM BAND With Coral, ch22. Rows 1-4 Work Back Loop stitch pattern, ending with a RS row. [22 dc] Break off yarn and do not turn work. Join Azure in opposite end of work. Row 5 (RS) Continue in Back Loop stitch pattern. Break yarn and do not turn. Rejoin Coral in opposite end of work to work a RS row on the next row. Rows 6-9 Continue in Back Loop stitch pattern. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing up. Join sides of Armband to form a tube. Weave in ends. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 23

ss a l c r e t MaWse show you thae kteecbheaniqutiufue l to m you’ll need cce o ie .

c ochet a

Front & back loops Grab a hook and we’ll show you how easy it is to master front and back loop stitches.

What EffEcts CouLd i CreAtE? Crochet touchable texture or go three-dimensional! When you first learn to crochet, you’re always told to insert your hook under both loops of the stitch on the row below. But did you know you can break this rule and create some fun effects? Stitches worked into the front or back loop only can create interesting textures, or leave a stitch loop available for another layer of stitches.

LAYERS

TEXTURE You can work any stitch into the back loop or front loop only of the stitch on the previous row.

LayerEd cowl p27

Create a 3D effect by working stitches first into the front loop only, then the back loop only.

What are the FroNt and Back LooPs? Start here for all you need to know about front and back loops. In most standard crochet patterns, the stitches are usually worked into both loops of the stitch on the row below. This means that you insert the hook under both loops of the stitch on the row below 01 and then work your stitches. When you first learned to crochet, you may have accidentally inserted the hook under just one of these loops. Although this would have been wrong at the time, you can use this alternative method of working stitches to create textured effects. First things first, what are the front and back loops of a stitch? Take any piece 01

BOTH LOOPS

24 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

of crochet fabric that you might have in progress and take a look at the v-shaped loop at the top of one stitch. Make sure you have the fabric orientated so that the side you’re working on is facing you. The front loop of the stitch will be the single strand of the v-shaped loop that’s closest to you. The back loop will be the other strand that’s farthest away from you. If you worked the next row into just the front loops, when you turn the fabric at the end of the row, what were the empty back loops will now be called the front loops. 02

FRONT LOOP

This can be a little confusing, but just remember to have the side of the fabric you’re working on facing you before you label the front loops and back loops. If you’re asked to work stitches into the front loop, insert your hook from front to back, under just the front strand of the top of the stitch on the row below 02 . To work into the back loop of the stitch, insert your hook from front to back, under just the back strand of the stitch on the row below 03 . Then you can work stitches as usual. Keep reading to find out how! 03

BACK LOOP

how do i Work Into the FroNt Loop? It’s easy when you know how – and we’ll show you! To practise working into the front loop, make a row of double crochet – try 10 stitches. So make a slipknot and ch11. Turn and work a dc into the second chain from the hook and each chain to the end. Turn and on the second row work all the dc stitches into the front loop only. To do this, insert the hook under the front strand of the 01

stitch on the row below 01 . Yrh and pull up a loop 02 . Yrh and pull through both loops on the hook to complete the dc stitch 03 . Here’s what a row of front loop dc will look like 04 from the front – stitches will look the same as if you worked into both loops. From the back, you can see how the spare back loops create a ridge of texture 05 . 03

how do i Work Into the Back Loop? Here’s how easy it is to work into the back loop of stitches. To practise working stitches into the back loop, make another row of 10 double crochet stitches in the same way as before. On the second row, work all the dc stitches into the back loop only. To do this, insert the hook under the back strand of the stitch on the row below 01 . Yrh and pull up a loop 02 . Yrh and pull through both loops on the 01

hook to complete the dc stitch 03 . Here’s what a row of back loop dc will look like 04 from the front. The stitches will be slightly in relief and you’ll be able to see the front loops that haven’t been worked into. From the back, the new row of stitches will create quite a strong indent in the fabric 05 . 03

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 25

how do i CreAte TexTure? Master these stitches to create cool texture. 01

Now you can work stitches into the front loop or back loop, you can create all sorts of textured effects in your fabric. By using different combinations of front loop stitches and back loop stitches, there’s a near-infinite number of textures you can crochet. To try just one, make a row of 10 double crochet stitches. On the second row, work a dc into the front loop, then a dc into the back loop – continue alternating one front loop dc stitch with one back loop dc stitch across the row. Work more rows in the same way as the second row. You’ll create a fabric that looks like this 01 . You don’t have to stick to just double crochet stitches though – you can work any stitch into the front or back loop, from treble stitches to triple treble stitches, and even slip stitches. You can also use these stitches to create raised effects and faux cable textures. Experiment with different stitches and see what stitch patterns you can invent.

how Else can i use Loop StiTches? Use front and back loop stitches to create layers of fabric. To start practising this method, go back to the first swatch you made, of 10 double crochet stitches, where you worked the second row of stitches into the front loop of the stitches on the first row. Fasten off but do not turn. * With the right side of Row 2 facing you, rejoin the yarn in the back loop of the first stitch of the first row 01 . Chain one and work a double crochet stitch into the back loop of the first stitch and each stitch of the first row. To do this, insert the hook into the back loop of the stitch on the row below 02 . Work yrh and

pull up a loop 03 . Yrh again 04 and pull through two loops to finish the stitch 05 . This can be a little fiddly, but keep going to the end of the row. Turn and work a third row of dc stitches into both loops of the previous row. You will have created a ruffle that should look like this 06 . To continue the effect, work the next row of dc stitches into the front loop only, fasten off and repeat from *. You can also work the same sort of technique in the round to create a layered flower effect – see our pattern on page 27.

26 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Written and compiled by Becky Skuse.

One of the most exciting uses for front loop and back loop stitches is in creating three-dimensional texture effects in your fabric – this could be ruffles, faux cables, layered flowers and much more. This method works by placing one row of stitches in the front loops of the stitches below, and then another row of stitches into the remaining loops of the same stitches. You can also create more complex effects by working just a selection of stitches into the spare loops of a stitch on the row below, or even two or three rows below.

layered cowl

Your ps e t s t x ne ti e wo king in the Prac back loops f ont and y cowl. with ou co

In the loop Whip up a bit of DIY couture with Becky Skuseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scrumptious layered cowl in cosy tweed.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 27

layered cowl

esigner Becky says: “Drape yourself in layers of touchable texture with this cowl. Creating textured fabrics is one of the appeals of working stitches into the front loops and back loops. There are four different textures used here, which you can experiment with to create a new look.” NOTE The scarf is made from swatches of four different stitch patterns, each using a different shade of yarn, which are sewn together afterwards. A flower is made separately to use as a pin for the scarf.

TREBLE CROCHET

SUPER CHUNKY

8MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q Debbie Bliss Paloma Tweed (30% wool, 14% acrylic, 50% alpaca, 50g/65m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Emerald (14) Yarn B Taupe (02) Yarn C Honey (08) Q DROPS Eskimo (100% wool, 50g/50m), 1 ball of each: Yarn D Blue/Violet Mix (21) Yarn E Sapphire (37) Q An 8mm (US L/11) hook Q A brooch back For yarn stockists contact Designer Yarns 01535 664222 www.designeryarnsuk.com Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk MEASUREMENTS 8cm (3in) wide and approx 2m (79in) long ABBREVIATIONS blo back loop only flo front loop only For a full list, see page 130.

28 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

C WIDE RIB TEXTURE Using Yarn A, ch10. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. [8 tr] Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in blo of each st to end, turn. Rows 3-40 Repeat Row 2. Fasten off and weave in ends. EMBOSSED TEXTURE Using Yarn E, ch10. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th chain from hook and each chain to end, turn. [8 tr] Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), *tr in blo of next st, tr in flo of next st; rep from * to last st, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. Rows 3-36 Repeat Row 2. Fasten off and weave in ends. LACY CROSSED DOUBLE TREBLES Using Yarn B, ch10. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th chain from hook and each chain to end, turn. [8 tr] Row 2 Ch4 (counts as first dtr), *skip next tr, dtr into next tr, dtr into back loop only of skipped tr; rep from * to last stitch, dtr in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 3 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in next st and each st across, turn. Rows 4-31 Repeat Rows 2-3. Fasten off and weave in ends. WAVY RIDGE TEXTURE Using Yarn C, ch10. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th chain from hook and each chain to end, turn. [8 tr] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), ss into blo of first st, *ch1, ss in blo of next 2 sts; rep from * to last st, ch1, ss in blo of last st, turn. [8 ss, 4 ch-1 sps] The next row is worked into unworked loops of trebles two rows before. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), ss to

The chunky purple flower is the perfect finishing flourish for this layered tweed cowl.

unworked loop of first tr, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in unworked loop of next 7 tr, turn. [8 tr] Rows 4-45 Repeat Rows 2-3. Fasten off and weave in ends. LAYERED FLOWER Using Yarn D, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 10dc into loop, ss to first dc to join. [10 dc] Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), htr in flo of st at base of ch1, *(htr, ch1, ss) in flo of next st, (ss, ch1, htr) in flo of next st; rep from * 3 more times, (htr, ch1, ss) in flo of next st. [5 petals made] The next round is worked into the unworked loops of dc sts of Round 1. Round 3 Ss into blo of first st, (2ss in blo of next st, ss into blo of next st) twice, ss in blo of next st, (2ss in blo of next st, ss into blo of next st) twice. [14 sts] Round 4 Ch2, tr into flo of st at base of ch2, (tr, ch2, ss) into flo of next st, *(ss, ch2, tr) into flo of next st, (tr, ch2, ss) into flo of next st; rep from * 5 more times. [7 petals] The next round is worked into the unworked loops of the ss of Round 3. Round 5 Ss into blo of first st, ss in blo of each st around, ss to first ss to join. [14 sts] Round 6 Ch3, dtr into flo of st at base of ch3, (dtr, ch3, ss) into flo of next st, *(ss, ch3, dtr) into flo of next st, (dtr, ch3, ss) into flo of next st; rep from * 5 more times. [7 petals] Fasten off. Sew brooch back to the back of flower. TO MAKE UP Sew the four different textures tog at the ends, in the order you desire, to form one long strip, sew the ends tog. Pin the flower on top of the layers.

When you SubScRibe TodAy!

SUBSCRIBE TODAY: VISIT www.buysubscriptions.com/SCHA17 PHONE 0844 576 7871 (quote code SCHA17)* Lines open Monday-Friday 8am-8pm, Saturday 9am-1pm *UK calls to 0844 numbers will cost 7p per minute plus your telephone company’s access charge. Mobile charges may vary. This trial offer is for new print subscribers only subscribing by Direct Debit. You will receive 3 issues for £5 and then save 25% on the shop price with a Direct Debit step up of £22.49 every 6 issues. Full details of the Direct Debit guarantee are available on request. Prices correct at point of print and subject to change. Offer ends 31st December 2017.

s E titcH l f f u R

glamour to your crocheting reper e l t t i l a toire Add .

Dainty and feminine, ruffle stitch adds a fab finishing touch to makes. And as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a mix of doubles and trebles, it wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take long to master. BASIC RUFFLE STITCH PATTERN Make a foundation chain of any length, as instructed in the patterns opposite.

We suggest 20 stitches for a swatch. Row 1 (WS) Dc in the second ch from the hook and each ch to end, turn. Row 2 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 5tr in the front loop only of the first stitch, 6tr in the front loop of each remaining stitch across, turn.

Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in the unworked back loop of each stitch at the base of the previous row, turn. Rows 2 and 3 form the pattern. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until your swatch is the desired size. Patterns by Hannah Cross.

ruffle stitch Craft a trio of chic, ruffled treats for the special ladies in your life.

A card becomes a keepsake wth a simple hanging loop.

Neck ruffles aren’t just for Tudors, oh no. Hook yours today.

goLd-tiPped Scarf

ruFfle-Edged card

frIlly NecklacE

A scarf always makes a thoughtful gift, especially if it’s handmade and edged with gorgeous golden ruffles.

Get started on your Mother’s Day card early with this frilled edging. You can download pretty Mother’s Day papers for free from Papercraft Inspirations at http://bit.ly/SCMmum

Crochet jewellery needn’t be fiddly or complicated. Treat a special lady (maybe even yourself) to a simple and stylish twisted ruffle hanging from a delicate chain. The cheery yellow shade is perfect for adding a pop of bright colour to a humdrum outfit. We’d love one in red, too.

Q DMC Natura Just Cotton (100% cotton,

50g/155m), 1 ball of Tournesol (N16) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q Tapestry needle

Q DMC Natura Just Cotton (100% cotton,

50g/155m), 1 ball of Tournesol (N16)

Q Linen fabric 38x184cm (15x72½in)

Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook

Q White cotton thread

Q Pointed needle for piercing card

Q DMC Natura Just Cotton

Q Sewing machine and sewing kit

Q Front of a pre-made greetings card, or

(100% cotton, 50g/155m), 1 ball of Tournesol (N16) For stockists, contact Rico www.rico-design.co.uk Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q Silver necklace chain Q Tapestry needle

MEASUREMENTS Finished scarf measures approx 35x181cm (13¾x71¼in) Ruffle portion is made to fit the short end of the scarf and is 5cm (2in) wide SCARF Pin and hem each side of the linen, taking a 1.5cm seam allowance all round. Using the yarn, blanket stitch evenly along each short end, about 4mm from the edge, with each st about 4mm apart. EDGING Row 1 (WS) Join yarn to first blanket st with WS facing. Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each blanket stitch to end, turn. Work Rows 2 and 3 of Basic Ruffle Stitch Pattern twice, then Row 2 once more. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat on other short end of the scarf.

make your own A5 card using grey, white and yellow card and paper MEASUREMENTS Ruffle is custom made to fit card CARD Blanket stitch with yarn around the card, with stitches 1cm apart. It may help to mark the points for the stitches and pierce the card all round with a sharp needle first. RUFFLE Join yarn to any blanket stitch. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 5tr in first blanket st, 6tr in each blanket st around, ss in top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. For a hanging chain, join yarn to a corner st, ch40, join to next corner st. Fasten off and weave in ends.

MEASUREMENTS The ruffle portion measures 13x3.5cm (5x1¼in) RUFFLE Ch31. Row 1 Work as for Row 1 of Basic Ruffle Stitch Pattern but work each st over the necklace chain, turn. Work Rows 2 and 3 of Basic Ruffle Stitch Pattern, then repeat Row 2 once more. Fasten off and weave in ends. The ruffles will twist around the necklace so that it sits neatly. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 31

Puff StitcH e Mak

-to stitch when you want delicio o g r u o us t e this y

xtur e

puff stitch

Similar to bobble stitch (see p36) and popcorn stitch (see p38), puff stitch creates an amazing bobbly texture. While it might look a little daunting at first glance, these gorgeous rows of yarny goodness are achieved simply by working loops through one stitch, so confident beginners will definitely be happy giving it a go. You can also experiment with the size of the stitch you create by increasing the number of loops you add. Prepare to get puffed! BASIC PUFF STITCH PATTERN Puff stitch (Yrh, insert hook in stitch, yrh, pull up a loop to the height of a htr) 3 times working into the same stitch as indicated, yrh, pull through all loops on hook. Ch multiple of 2 + 1. Foundation row (WS) Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), dc in second ch from hook, *ch1, skip next ch, dc in next ch; repeat from * to end, turn. Row 1 (RS) Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), *puff stitch into next ch-sp, ch1, skip next dc; repeat from * to last ch-sp, puff stitch into last ch-sp, htr in last dc, turn. Row 2 Ch1, dc in htr, *ch1, skip next st, dc in next ch-sp, repeat from * to end, working last dc into second ch of beg ch-2, turn. Rows 1 and 2 make up Basic Puff Stitch Pattern. Repeat Rows 1-2, as instructed in each pattern.

teXtureD totE bag boBbly Book Cover Some Tips for Puff StiTch SucCess: Keep Your TenSion RelAxed to aid in PulLing Your LooPs, and ChoOse a Yarn That DoeSnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t SplIt.

prEtty Puff Purse

Patterns by Louise Smith.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 33

Get touchy-feely and embrace scrummy puff stitch texture with this stylish set of practical makes.

puff stitch

The jazziest journal you ever did see, right? Work those puff stitch stripes.

This mini make will help grow your confidence with zips and linings, too.

teXtureD totE bag boBbly Book Cover

prEtty Puff Purse

Fab for shopping or your latest WIP.

Store your pennies in stitchy style.

Give a notebook the DIY treatment.

Q Lang Yarns Merino+ (100% merino

wool, 50g/90m), 1 ball of each: Green (0297), Pink (0185), Purple (0280, Blue (0074), Grey (0223) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Fabric for lining (optional)

wool, 50g/90m), 1 ball of each: Purple (0280), Blue (0074), Grey (0223) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook

wool, 50g/90m), small amounts of Green (0297), Pink (0185), Grey (0223) For yarn stockists, contact Art Yarns 01529 240510 www.artyarn.co.uk Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Fabric for lining (optional) Q Zip, 10cm (4in) long

MEASUREMENTS 29x34cm (11½x13½in) TOTE SIDE (MAKE TWO) Change colour on last yrh of prev st. Using Blue, ch49. Foundation row (WS) Work as given for foundation row in Basic Puff St Pattern. [49 sts] Rows 1-40 Work in Basic Puff St Pattern, changing colour every two rows and using this sequence: Blue, Purple, Green, Pink. Change to Grey on last yrh of last st of Row 40 to work handle. Row 41 Using Grey, ch1, dc in each ch-sp and dc across, turn. [49 dc] Rows 42-43 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 44 Ch1, dc in each of next 15 sts, ch19, skip 19 sts, dc in each of next 15 sts, turn. Rows 45-48 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Fasten off and weave in ends. With right sides facing, sew the two sides together. Line with fabric, if desired. Turn right way out.

MEASUREMENTS 22x33cm (8½x13in) laid flat COVER Change colour on last yrh of prev st. Using Blue, ch55. Foundation row (WS) Work as given for foundation row in Basic Puff St Pattern. [55 sts] Rows 1-28 Work in Basic Puff St Pattern, using Grey for every Row 1, alternating between Purple and Blue for each Row 2 (work first Row 2 in Purple, then next Row 2 in Blue). Row 28 should be worked in Blue. Do not fasten off. JOINING FLAP Using bBue, rotate piece to work down short side edge. Row 1 Ch1, dc evenly down short edge, working 2dc in each puff st row end and 1dc into each dc row end, turn. [43 dc] Rows 2-13 Ch1, dc in each dc to end, turn. Fasten off. Fold flap to WS at Row 1 and sew short sides to first and last rows of main piece. Rejoin Blue to other short side and rep as above. Weave in ends.

MEASUREMENTS 11x10cm (4¼x4in) PURSE SIDE (MAKE TWO) Change colour on last yrh of prev st. Using Grey, ch19. Foundation row (WS) Work as given for foundation row in Basic Puff St Pattern. [19 sts] Row 1 (RS) Starting with Pink, work as for Row 1 of Basic Puff St Pattern, alternating each puff st between Pink and Green. Row 2 Using Grey, work as for Row 2 of Basic Puff St Pattern. Rows 3-10 Rep Rows 1-2. Row 11 Using Grey, ch1, dc in each dc and ch-sp to end. [19 dc] Fasten off and weave in ends. With right sides facing, sew the two sides together down one side, across bottom and up other side. Sew zip in place at top. Line with fabric, if desired. Turn right way out. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 35

E s l t b itc H b o B

ng of texture with this versatile i r e t t a c stitch as Add .

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very satisfying to be able to use double crochet stitches to make fabric, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s even better when you can add bobbles to the mix! BASIC BOBBLE PATTERN All bobbles are made on wrong side rows. MB Make Bobble (Yrh, insert the hook in the st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 4 times

inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 5 loops on the hook. Use number of chain stated in pattern. Chain will be a multiple of 6 + 3 sts. Foundation row (WS) 1dc in second chain from hook and each ch across, turn. Rows 1-3 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 1dc in each st across, turn.

Row 4 (WS) Ch1, dc in 4 dc, *MB, dc in the next 5 dc; repeat from * across to the last 4 dc, MB, dc in the last 3 dc, turn. Rows 5-7 Ch1, 1dc in each st across, turn. Row 8 (WS) Ch1, 1dc in first st, *MB, dc in next 5 dc; repeat from * across to last 7 dc, MB, dc in last 6 dc, turn. Rows 1-8 form pattern. Patterns by Sara Huntington.

bobble stitch

Stitch up our terrific trio of textured accessories as cute gifts to give, or as little treats for you.

We heart these cute fingerless mitts. Soft and snuggly.

Spot? What spot? Nope, we definitely don’t see any spots.

doTty hEadbanD

teXtureD mittS

spOt on cowl

Try your hook at an easy-peasy narrow headband to get to grips with bobble stitches. It’s ideal for helping disguise bad hair days and will keep your ears warm, too. Get stitching!

When it’s a bit nippy outside but not cold enough for mittens, a pair of fingerless mitts is a must-have.

Ward off wintry chills in the most stylish way possible with a playful, textured crochet cowl. This simple make is worked in rows and then seamed together at the end to form one big, cosy loop. Plus, one size fits all. It’s the perfect weekend project. Get a brew on, curl up on the sofa and get ready to make your cowl.

Q Rowan Pure Wool Superwash DK

(100% wool, 50g/125m), 1 ball of Hyacinth (026) For stockists, contact Rowan 01484 950630 www.knitrowan.com Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook TENSION 20 sts and 26 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over the stitch pattern using a 3mm crochet hook MEASUREMENTS Approximately 50cm (19¾in) in circumference HEADBAND Ch99. Work foundation row. [98 sts] Skip Rows 1-3 of basic pattern. Work pattern Rows 4-8 once. Work pattern Rows 1-5 once. Fasten off. TO FINISH Seam the two short ends together neatly to form a ring.

Q Rowan Pure Wool Superwash DK

(100% wool, 50g/125m), 1 ball of Hyacinth (026) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook TENSION 20 sts and 26 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over st pattern using a 3mm hook MEASUREMENTS Mitt meas 10x15cm (4x6in) folded flat NOTES Each mitt is made of an identical front and back piece. To work reverse dc, dc in each st around, but work from left to right, so next st will be on right of last st worked. FRONT/BACK (MAKE 2 PER MITT) Ch21. Work foundation row of basic pattern. Work pattern Rows 1-3 once. [20 sts] Work pattern Rows 1-8 three times. Work pattern Rows 1-7 once. Work one row in reverse dc. Fasten off. Holding 2 pieces with RS facing, seam long sides tog to make a mitt, leaving a 4cm gap halfway up one side for thumbhole. Turn RS out.

Q Rowan Pure Wool Superwash DK

(100% wool, 50g/125m), 2 balls of Hyacinth (026) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook TENSION 17 sts and 22 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over the stitch pattern using a 4mm crochet hook MEASUREMENTS Cowl measures 31x16cm (12¼x6¼in) folded flat COWL Ch105. Work foundation row. [100 sts] Work pattern Rows 1-8 four times. Work pattern Row 1-3 once. Fasten off. TO FINISH Seam the two short ends together neatly to form a ring. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 37

n s r t o i tc H c P o p

a stitch that looks good enough to p u k eat! H oo

popcorn stitch

It’s easy peasy to scatter these kernels of yarny fun across your crochet – all you have to do is work treble stitches into chains and voilà! Gorgeously strokeable texture. As well as playing a starring role in a project, as we’ve shown in these cute baby makes, popcorn stitches also make fun embellishments for items such as granny squares, mandalas and flowers. Start popping today! BASIC POPCORN STITCH PATTERN Make Popcorn (MP) Work 5tr in the same st, drop the loop from the hook, insert the hook from front to back in the top of first tr worked, put the hook back in the dropped loop and pull through the first tr, ch1 to close. Chain a multiple of 3 plus 2 sts. We used 23 ch for the sample above. Row 1 (RS) MP into fourth ch from hook (skipped ch count as tr), 1tr into each of the next 2 ch, *MP in next ch, 1tr into each of the next 2 ch; rep from * to end omitting last tr on final repeat, turn. Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc into each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), *MP in next st, 1tr into each of the next 2 sts; rep from * to end, turn. Row 4 As Row 2. Row 5 Ch3 (counts as tr), *MP in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, omitting last tr on final repeat, turn. Row 6 As Row 2. Rows 3-6 set the pattern.

poMpom BonneT boBble BlankeT you can Also Make Your PopCorn StiTches AltErNate BetWeen the FroNt and Back of the FabRic for Even More fun TexTure.

wrApoveR booTees

Patterns by Kath Webber.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 39

Perfect your tactile popcorn stitches and craft this playful trio of baby accessories in yummy Cashmerino.

popcorn stitch

Just a touch of texture – the bootees have a popcorn stitch cuff.

This blanket rules, but we can’t guarantee against escaping toes.

poMpom BonneT

wrApoveR booTees

boBble BlankeT

Keep your little pixie cosy in a snug and super-bobbly bonnet. The ties make sure the hat stays in place.

Tiny toes deserve beautiful bootees. This clever wrapover pair fit the bill.

Wrap up a little one in a gorgeously squashy textured blanket. It’s the perfect gift for a precious new arrival and it’s so much fun to hook up. Got a craving for a little more colour? Since the blanket is worked in rows, you could easily raid your stash for a similar DK yarn and make your baby blanket in bright popcorn stripes instead. It’s a really simple make but the luxurious yarn and playful texture make it extra special.

Q Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% Q Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55%

wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere, 50g/125m), 1 ball of Mist (0057) Q DK yarn in another shade for pompom Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook TENSION 18 sts and 16 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) in stitch patt with a 3mm hook MEASUREMENTS To fit 0-3 months Flat piece measures 25x13cm (10x4¾in) before joining the back seam BONNET Ch50. Work as given for Basic Popcorn Stitch Pattern for 20 rows, do not fasten off. Fold piece in half lengthwise, WS tog. Matching up the stitches, work a dc seam down one side of the folded piece. Fasten off and weave in ends. Rejoin yarn to dc around the rem edge; when you reach each of the front corners, ch31 for a tie and dc back along the chain before continuing around the edge. Fasten off and weave in ends. Make 2 pompoms with DK yarn in another shade and attach one to the end of each tie.

wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere, 50g/125m), 1 ball of Mist (0057) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Stitch markers MEASUREMENTS To fit 0-3 months; sole length 7cm (2¾in) BOOTEES (MAKE 2) Ch35. Row 1 (RS) Dc into 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [34 sts] Work a further 6 rows of dc on these sts. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing up. Rejoin yarn with WS facing in 14th st from edge ready to work piece that will form sole, worked from heel to toe. Rows 8-22 Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc into next 8 sts, turn. [8 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing up. To sew up, overlap each row end of first piece and stitch across toe seam, ensuring that you cross over the pieces in opposite directions on each boot. Sew up sides. CUFF Mark out central 14 sts around opening and rejoin yarn with WS facing in first of those sts. Work as given for Basic Pattern across 14 sts for 4 rows. Fasten off and weave in ends. Fold over Cuff.

Q Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino

(55% wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere, 50g/125m), 6 balls of Mint (003) For yarn stockists, contact Designer Yarns 01535 664222 www.designeryarns.uk.com Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook MEASUREMENTS Finished blanket measures approx 50x50cm (20x20in) BABY BLANKET Ch71. Work Rows 1-6 of the Basic Popcorn Stitch Pattern. Repeat Rows 2-6 until the piece measures 50cm. Fasten off. Weave in all ends. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 41

ss a l c r e t MaWse show you thae kteecbheaniqutiufue l to m you’ll need acce o ie . c ochet

Crochet cables Grab a hook and some yarn – we’ll show you how easy it is to create cables. Who needs knitting?

What do i Need to Know? Want to create raised braids, twists and cables? With a brilliantly twisted look, crochet cables are surprisingly simple to do, using front and back post stitches. Whatever project you work on, cables will add interest and texture to a design. Chunky yarns look especially good with cables, but you can also experiment with finer yarns and small makes.

CROSSED POST STITCHES

POST STITCHES To work cables you need to be able to work post stitches, but they’re very simple to crochet.

Cable headBand p45

By crossing over post stitches, you create cabled effects. There are loads of different ones to try.

how do i Work Post StiTches? Master these clever stitches and reap the rewards. Post stitches are the same as standard stitches, but they’re worked around the post of the next stitch instead of into its top loops. Here’s how: For a front post treble, yrh, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch 01 . Work the rest of the stitch as usual for a treble: yrh, pull up loop (it should loop around the post of the st), yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through 2 loops 02 . The finished stitch is raised up from the other sts 03 . Work a back post treble in the same way, but this time insert the hook from back to front to back around the post of the next stitch 04 and 05 . The finished stitch is set back from the other stitches 06 . 42 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

how do i Work a CabLe? Here’s a quick and easy way to work a 4-stitch crossed cable. Once you’ve mastered post stitches, you can create crochet cables. To form cables, the post stitches are worked in a specific pattern and are often combined with regular stitches – the regular stitches lie flat, while the post stitches create a raised pattern. This makes the cable stand out from the rest of the work and gives them their smooth and flowing appearance. You can work cable patterns in any crochet fabric, but the post stitches that form the cable will usually be worked in a longer stitch type than the main fabric. So if your main fabric is made using double crochet stitches, the cable pattern will usually be formed with post treble or half treble stitches. Similarly, if your main fabric is

made using treble stitches, the cable pattern will usually be formed with post double treble or triple treble stitches. To practise making a simple front post crossed cable, crochet a row of 14 trebles (ch16, tr in 4th ch from hook and each ch to end). On the second row, make the 3-ch t-ch as usual and work 1tr. Now work a 4-stitch crossed cable over the next 4 sts. Start by skipping the next 2 sts and then work a front post double treble (abbreviated as FPdtr) around the next stitch 01 and 02 . Work a FPdtr stitch around the next st in the same way (you’ll have 2 FPdtr) 03 . Return to the first skipped stitch and work a FPdtr around this st, inserting hook from

front to back to front. It may help to rotate or fold the work to make the stitch easier to work into the fabric 04 and 05 . Make sure the FPdtr st worked around the skipped stitch lies on top of the first 2 FPdtr you worked. Crossing over stitches like this is the secret to achieving the cable look in crochet 06 . Work a FPdtr around the next skipped stitch, again making sure it lies over the top of the previous pair of FPdtr you worked. You will have created a pretty cable effect over 4 stitches 07 . Now work 2 plain trebles and repeat the cable pattern from step 1. Finish the row with 2tr. This is how your row of front post crossed cables should look 08 .

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 43

how do i Work the Next row? Vary the pattern of wrong-side rows to create different effects. raised and will look more flowing and defined on subsequent rows. This is the most popular option 02 . Alternatively, you could create a whole different look by working the crossed cable pattern using back post dtr (BPdtr) stitches. To do this, turn and make the 3-ch t-ch as usual, then treble into the next stitch 03 . Skip the next 2 stitches. Yrh twice and insert the hook around the back of the post of the next stitch (this will be one of the post sts from the previous row). Complete the BPdtr stitch in the usual way. Work a BPdtr around the next stitch 04 . Return to the first stitch you skipped on this row (this will be one of the post sts from the previous row). Yrh twice and insert the hook around the back of the post of this

44 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

skipped stitch. This can be a little fiddly, but just take your time and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be fine. This time, it might help if you tilt the fabric towards you so that you can see the other side of the fabric 05 . Yrh and pull up a loop of yarn. Yrh 06 . Now you can tilt the fabric back to the usual position youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d work in and finish the BPdtr in the usual way. Work another BPdtr around the next skipped stitch 07 . Work plain trebles into the next 2 stitches. Repeat from step 4 over the remaining 6 stitches. This is how your work will look from the right side if you do this. The effect of this option is more delicate, so be careful to get the tension of your stitches just right to avoid pulling the delicate cable stitches out of shape 08 .

Written by Becky Skuse

Cable patterns can be made on RS or WS rows and the way you work the WS rows will alter the look of your cable. Return to the swatch of front post crossed cables you just made. Turn and try working the next row (a WS row) in three different ways, as follows: The easiest option is to just work plain trebles across the row. This is how your work will look from the right side if you do this. Then you can repeat the crossed cable row on the next right side row 01 . The second option is to work the next row using a combination of plain treble stitches and BPdtr stitches: work BPdtr stitches into each post stitch on the previous row and work a plain treble into each treble stitch. This is how your work will look from the right side if you do this. The cable stitches are still

cable headband

Your next st e ps Put you ca ble into pr acti with thi fu nky headba ce nd thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pe fec t fo winte .

Twist it Stay cosy with this chic cabled headband in a super-soft chunky yarn. Designed by Becky Skuse.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 45

cable headband

esigner Becky Skuse says: “A chunky headband is a must-have this winter, to keep you feeling warm and looking stylish. A simple cable pattern is a classic decoration for a cosy feel, using a combination of crossedover post stitches. The pattern might seem complicated at first glance but if you try working one pattern repeat, you’ll soon get the hang of it. Get ready for the compliments!” Oh, we’re ready.

IMPROVE CHUNKY YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q DROPS Air Mix (70% alpaca, 23% polyamide, 7% wool, 50g/130m), 1 ball of Medium Grey (04) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook For yarn stockists, contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk MEASUREMENTS Approx 8cm (3in) wide and 55cm (21½in) circumference ABBREVIATIONS FPtr Yrh, starting from the front insert hook from front to back to front around post of st in row below, complete as for a tr stitch BPtr Yrh, starting from the back insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as for a tr stitch FPdtr Yrh twice, starting from the front insert hook from front to back to front around post of st in row below, complete as for a dtr stitch BPdtr Yrh twice, starting from the back insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as for a dtr stitch For a full list, see page 130.

46 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

NOTES When pattern refers to a front post stitch, this is always on the side of the fabric that’s facing you. A back post stitch is always on the side of the fabric that’s facing AWAY from you. Each post stitch is worked into a post stitch on the same side of the work, so a back post stitch is always worked into a post stitch on the back of the work (the side of the fabric that’s facing AWAY from you), while a front post stitch is always worked into a post stitch on the front of the work (the side of the fabric that’s facing you).

C HEADBAND Ch16. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [14 sts] Row 2 Ch2 (counts as BPtr), BPtr around next st, *FPtr around each of next 2 sts, BPtr around each of next 2 sts; repeat from * twice more, turn. Row 3 Ch2 (counts as FPtr), FPtr around next st, BPtr around each of next 2 sts, skip next 2 sts, BPdtr around next st, return to skipped sts and FPdtr around each of 2 skipped sts, skip next unworked st (the one after the BPdtr), FPdtr around each of next 2 sts, return to skipped st and BPdtr around skipped st, BPtr around each of next 2 unworked sts, FPtr around each of last 2 sts, turn. Row 4 Ch2 (counts as BPtr), BPtr around next st, FPtr around each of next 3 sts, skip next 2 sts, BPdtr around each of next 2 sts (mark these 2 sts once you’ve worked them), return to skipped sts and BPdtr around each of 2 skipped sts, FPtr around each of next 3 unworked sts, BPtr around each of last 2 sts, turn. Row 5 Ch2 (counts as FPtr), FPtr around next st, BPtr around each of next 2 sts, skip next st, FPdtr around each of next

Front and back post trebles and double trebles are used to create this single braid.

2 sts (unmarked stitches), return to skipped st and BPdtr around skipped st, skip next 2 marked stitches, BPdtr around next st, return to skipped sts and FPdtr around each of 2 marked sts, BPtr around each of next 2 sts, FPtr around each of next 2 sts, turn. Row 6 As Row 2. Row 7 Ch2 (counts as FPtr), FPtr around next st, *BPtr around each of next 2 sts, FPtr around each of next 2 sts; repeat from * twice more, turn. Row 8 As Row 2. Rows 3-8 form pattern. Repeat Rows 3-8 another 8 times. Then repeat Rows 3-7 once more. Work should measure approx 54cm. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the long tail to sew the two short ends together.

Discover colour Be bright and bold with exciting stitches that show off brilliant combinations of colour.

1 6 PROJECTS TO CROCHET TODAY!

try a burst of catherine wheel stitch!

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 47

r o k W S t h i c t t ch a P sewin o n s â&#x20AC;&#x2122; e Ther

g required for this sort of

quiltin

patchwork stitch

There’s something so satisfying about creating a geometric pattern in crochet, and the squares that form under your hook in this stitch make for a scrumptious effect. We’ve crocheted a trio of crafty goodies here (including a tape measure that looks good enough to eat alongside your cuppa!) but the possibilities of this chequered pattern are endless – kitchen accessories, such as tablemats and pot holders, would look particularly good. BASIC PATCHWORK STITCH PATTERN The pattern is worked with 2 shades of yarn (Yarn A and Yarn B), and a multiple of 5 sts. When changing to a new shade, pick up the new colour in the last yrh of the prev st, and lay the yarn you are not using over the sts of the prev row to encase it as you work. With Yarn A, ch a multiple of 5 sts + 1. We used 36 ch on the sample. Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in second ch from hook and next 4 ch, *with Yarn B dc in next 5 ch, with Yarn A dc in next 5 ch; repeat from * to end, turn. Rows 2-5 Ch1, work a dc in Yarn A in every Yarn A stitch of the previous row, and a dc in Yarn B in every Yarn B stitch of the previous row. Row 6 Ch1, work a dc in Yarn B in every Yarn A stitch of the previous row, and a dc in Yarn A in every Yarn B stitch of the previous row. Rows 2-6 set pattern.

chEquerEd hoOk rolL paTch pIncusHion This set of CraFty EssEnTiaLs WouLd Make a GorGeous BirThday Gift for a FelLow HooKster – use TheIr two FavOuRite ShaDes

baTtenbErg tapE

Patterns by Ruth Maddock.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 49

Pick two contrasting shades and get busy hooking up our three crafty essentials using pretty patchwork.

patchwork stitch

Mastered the stitch? This makes a fab last-minute gift for a fellow crafter.

For hooksters, sewists and knitters alike, this design really measures up.

chEquerEd hoOk rolL paTch pIncusHion

baTtenberG tapE

Keep your crochet essentials neat in a stylish handmade hook roll.

Put a firm crochet stamp on your tape measure with this cute cover.

A pincushion that’s really simple to make but looks pretty impressive.

Q DMC Natura Just Cotton (100% cotton,

50g/155m), 2 balls of Yarn A Gris Argent (N09), 1 ball of Yarn B Malva (N31) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook

50g/155m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Gris Argent (N09) Yarn B Malva (N31) For yarn stockists, contact DMC 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Polyester toy stuffing

50g/155m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Gris Argent (N09), Yarn B Malva (N31) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Square tape measure (approx 5cm/2in square)

MEASUREMENTS 22x18cm (8½x7in) CROCHET HOOK ROLL With Yarn A, ch56. For the Outside Cover, follow the Basic Stitch Pattern for a total of 40 rows. Fasten off Yarn A and dc evenly with Yarn B around the entire edge with 3dc in each corner. Fasten off. For the Hook Holder, work a plain piece of dc in Yarn A, 50 sts by 30 rows. For the Flap, make another piece of plain dc in Yarn A, 50 sts by 12 rows. TO MAKE UP Sew the Hook Holder piece to the outside cover along the bottom and two sides. Work lines of embroidered chain stitch in Yarn A to divide this pocket into separate sections for the hooks. Sew the Flap along the top edge of the outside cover. Using Yarn B, make a length of 100dc stitches. Fold this in half and fasten at the halfway point to the centre of the Outside Cover to form the ties.

MEASUREMENTS 9x10cm (3½x4in) PINCUSHION FRONT With Yarn A, ch21. Follow the Basic Stitch Pattern for a total of 20 rows. Fasten off Yarn A and dc evenly with Yarn B around the entire edge with 3dc in each corner. Fasten off. PINCUSHION BACK For the Back, make a piece of plain dc in Yarn A, 18 sts by 22 rows. TO MAKE UP Sew the Back and Front pieces together, leaving a gap for the stuffing. Stuff and sew up seam. For a firmer pin cushion, use a small bag of sand and surround it with stuffing for the filling.

MEASUREMENTS 5.5cm (2¼in) square TAPE MEASURE COVER With Yarn A, ch11. For the Front, follow the Basic Stitch Pattern for a total of 10 rows. Fasten off Yarn A and dc evenly with Yarn B around the entire edge with 3dc in each corner. Fasten off. For the Back, make a piece of plain dc in Yarn A, 9 sts by 12 rows. For the Side, make a piece of plain dc in Yarn A, 4 sts wide, by the length needed to fit around the tape measure. TO MAKE UP Starting at the tape measure opening, sew the Front to the Side piece all around. Sew on the Back, inserting the tape measure before finishing the seam. For the tab pull, make a piece of plain dc in Yarn B, 3 sts by 14 rows. Fold in half and sew along the two sides, enclosing the tape measure tab inside. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 51

s T d itch e E w t ur Mix yo

shades with this two-tone patte rn.

tweed stitch

This stitch has many names – seed, moss, linen, granite – but whatever you choose to call it, there’s no denying the gorgeous variegated look you can hook up with this clever combo of double crochet. The diamond-shaped clusters come to life as you work to create a lace-like texture that’s airy and delicate. The designs here also use a double crochet border, creating a solid frame to anchor these pretty stitches. You don’t have to limit yourself to two colours, either, once you’ve got the hang of it. BASIC TWEED STITCH PATTERN The pattern is made using two shades of yarn (Yarn A and Yarn B) and an odd number of stitches. Using Yarn B, ch24 (or number of chains instructed in pattern). Row 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from the hook, *ch1, skip the next ch, dc in the next ch; repeat from * to end, change to Yarn A, turn. Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in the first dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp, *ch1, skip the next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp; repeat from * to the last st, dc in the last dc, change to Yarn B, turn. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in the first dc, *ch1, skip the next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, ch1, skip the next dc, dc in the last dc, change to Yarn A, turn. Rows 2 and 3 set pattern. To make above sample, we also added a dc edging.

flOwerpOt cosY apRon pAtch PockeT This StiTch WouLd Also Work Well With a VarIeGatEd Yarn – we Like Rico’s Aran WeiGht CreAtive CotTon PriNt

plAnt pOt maT

Patterns by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 53

Use your green fingers to create a trio of accessories with decorative, two-tone tweed.

tweed stitch

Practical and pretty. This might be the perfect pocket.

One size fits most – this crochet mat will work for dining, too.

flOwerpOt cosY

apRon pAtch PockeT plAnt pOt maT

Give your budding beauties the handmade treatment with a cute plant pot cover. It fastens at the side with buttons and adjustable straps. Use floral buttons for bonus points.

If you’re busy gardening or cooking up a storm, an apron pocket really can be your best friend. (Until they invent extra pairs of hands, that is.) Q DROPS Paris (100% cotton, 50g/75m),

Q DROPS Paris (100% cotton, 50g/75m),

1 ball of each: Yarn A Apricot (01) Yarn B Light Pink (20) For yarn stockists, contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook Q 3 buttons and matching thread MEASUREMENTS 25x10cm (9¾x4in) FLOWERPOT COSY Using Yarn A, ch38. Work as given for Basic Stitch Pattern for a total of 15 rows on 37 sts. Fasten off. TO MAKE UP With Yarn A, dc evenly along both short ends. On right-hand short side, sew on three buttons. On left-hand short side, attach Yarn A with ss in line with button, ch20. This forms the button loop. Fasten off. Repeat opposite the other two buttons. Weave in all ends.

1 ball of each: Yarn A Apricot (01) Yarn B Light Pink (20) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook MEASUREMENTS 15x16cm (6x6¼in) POCKET Using Yarn B, ch22. Work a total of 8 rows following Basic Stitch Pattern on 21sts with Yarn B only. Change to Yarn A and continue with Basic Stitch Pattern for a further 8 rows, changing yarns at the end of every row. Work another 5 rows of pattern using Yarn B only. Fasten off. EDGING Join Yarn A to top left and dc evenly around with 3dc in each corner st. Turn to work back along top edge (there should be 23 sts including the corner sts): Ch1 (does not count as st), (3dc, 4tr in next st) 5 times, 3dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Hook one of these if you’re after scratch-free, plant-friendly surfaces. Q DROPS Paris (100% cotton, 50g/75m),

1 ball of each: Yarn A Apricot (01) Yarn B Light Pink (20) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook MEASUREMENTS 18x17cm (7x6¾in) PLANT MAT Using Yarn B, ch16. Row 1 (RS) Work Row 1 as given for St Patt but do not change yarn. [15 sts] Rows 2-8 Cont with Yarn B, ch1 (does not count as first st throughout), 2dc in first st, dc in next st (could be dc or ch), work ch above every dc and dc into every ch until last 2 sts, dc in next st, 2dc in last st, turn. [29 sts after Row 8] Row 9 Change to Yarn A, dc in first dc, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in ch-1 sp; rep from * to last 3 sts, ch1, dc in next 2 dc, change to Yarn B, turn. Rows 10-15 Follow St Patt, starting with a Row 3, changing yarn after every row, ending with a Row 2. Change to Yarn B. Rows 16-22 Cont with Yarn B, ch1, dc2tog, dc in ch-1 sp, *ch1, skip next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [15 sts after Row 22] Row 23 Work Row 3 of patt. Fasten off. Work a round of reverse dc around the outside edge using Yarn A. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 55

ss a l c r e t MaWse show you thae kteecbheaniqutiufue l to m you’ll need cce o ie .

c ochet a

Spike stitch colourwork Select two shades of yarn – we’re sharing the secrets of how to create spike stitch patterns.

whAt soRt of paTternS coulD i Create? We’ll show you how to work these three popular colour patterns. Worked in contrasting colours, spike stitches are great for creating unusual colour effects, particularly for adding interest to stripes. Spike stitches are usually only worked on double crochet fabrics, so they’re also called elongated double crochet stitches or dropped stitches. We’ll show you just how to do it, and once you’ve mastered the technique you can practise your new skills by making our fingerless mittens on page 59.

SPIKE WAVES Spike stitches won’t affect the tension of your fabric so it’s easy to incorporate patterns like this wave into any stripy project. Vary the placement of the wave to create different effects.

ALMOND STITCH We love these colourful almond shapes, separated by a narrow frame. You need to combine light and dark yarns to create a stained glass effect. Try using spare yarn from your stash.

SPIKE CLUSTERS These pretty half-star shapes are simple to create with spike cluster stitches. Working the stitch involves picking up five spike loops of yarn in the space of one dc stitch.

hoW do i Work A spiKe stitCh? Master this technique to create all sorts of colourful patterns. Spike stitches are made by working over stitches on previous rows, drawing out the yarn across the front and back of the fabric. To practise working spike dc stitches, work 4 rows of double crochet. Change to a contrasting yarn colour for the next row and work as follows: Work to the point where you want the spike dc (we worked ch1 and 2 dc) 01 . 01 Work the next dc as a spike dc stitch: don’t insert your hook into the top of the next stitch, but into the hole one row down from here (or further down, as instructed) 02 . Work yrh and pull up a loop. Lengthen the loop so that the fabric doesn’t pucker 03 . Complete the stitch as usual for a double crochet: yrh and pull through 2 loops 04 .

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hoW do i Work Spike wave paTterns? Try combining spike stitches of different lengths. The first colourwork technique we usually learn is stripes, but once you can work a spike dc, you can create more interesting effects. By combining spike stitches of different lengths, you can create colour effects like this simple spike wave pattern. To do this, use a light yarn (such as cream) to make 4 rows of 16 dc sts. Change to a darker yarn for the next row, a spike wave row. Work as follows: Ch1, dc into the next 2 sts. Work the 3rd dc as a spike dc into the hole one row down 01 . Work the 4th dc as a spike stitch, but insert the hook into the hole two rows down 02 . Work the 5th dc as a spike stitch, but insert the hook into the hole three rows down 03 . Now work the 6th dc in the same way as the 4th dc (as step 2), work the 7th dc in the same way as the 3rd dc (as step 1). Work a plain double crochet stitch into each of the next 2 sts â&#x20AC;&#x201C; these stitches help to anchor the spike dc sequence. Work the spike stitch wave pattern again from Step 1 to Step 4. Work 2 plain double crochet stitches to finish the spike wave row 04 . Continue by working three rows of plain dc in your darker colour. Then change to another colour (or back the first colour) and repeat the spike wave row, followed by three rows of plain dc. To start with, work the spike wave repeats over each other to create this effect 05 . Once youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re more confident with the pattern, try off-setting the waves to create the illusion of diamonds 06 . Now you can experiment with effects!

hoW do i Work alMond Stitch? Combine wavy stripes and spike stitches to create colourful almond shapes.

Almond stitch is easy to work and creates a clever stained glass effect. To start, use a light-coloured yarn to work 2 rows of 22 dc sts. Change to a darker yarn and work a wavy stripe row as follows: ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr, 1htr, 1dc, ch2, skip 2 sts, 1dc, 1htr, 2tr, 2dtr, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc, ch2, skip 2 sts, 1dc, 1htr, 2tr, turn 01 . Repeat the above row in the darker yarn 02 then switch back to the first colour and work a spike stitch row as follows: ch1, dc into 4 sts 03 . Work a spike dc stitch into the first skipped dc, 3 rows below. Work a spike dc stitch into the second skipped dc, 3 rows down 04 . Continue to work a dc stitch into each stitch on the row below, working a spike dc into each of the skipped stitches where required, turn. Ch1 and work a row of dc. Change back to your second colour (or a third colour) and work an offset wavy stripe row as follows: ch1, 1dc, 1htr, 2tr, 2dtr, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc, ch2, skip 2 sts, 1dc, 1htr, 2tr, 2dtr, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc, turn. Repeat this off-set wavy row. Change back to the first colour, work a spike stitch row and then a row of dc sts 05 . Repeat the pattern from Step 1 to form elegant almond shapes 06 .

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 57

Once you’re comfortable with the techniques needed to make spike dc stitches, you can try spike cluster stitches. As the name suggests, it’s formed by picking up five spike loops of yarn and working them together in one dc space. To start, use a light-coloured yarn to work 4 rows of 14 dc sts (ch15, dc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain to end, turn, *ch1, dc in each dc to end, turn; rep from * twice more). Change to your second, darker colour. Work the next row, a spike cluster row, as follows: Ch1, work 4 double crochet sts 01 . The 5th dc will be the spike cluster stitch. Don’t insert your hook into the top of the next stitch. Instead, insert it into the hole 2 sts to the right and 1 row down. Yrh and pull up a loop 02 . Now insert your hook into the hole 1 stitch to the right and 2 rows down. Work yrh and pull up a loop 03 . Then insert the hook into the hole directly underneath the next dc stitch but 3 rows down. Yrh and pull up a loop 04 . Next, insert the hook into the hole 1 stitch to the left and 2 rows down. Work yrh and pull up a loop again 05 . Now insert the hook into the hole 2 sts to the left and 1 row down, yrh and pull up a loop. You will now have 6 loops on your hook 06 . To complete the stitch, insert the hook into the top of the next stitch, as if to work the 5th dc. Yrh and pull up a loop (7 loops on hook) 07 . Now work yrh 08 , and carefully pull through all loops on the hook to finish the spike cluster stitch 09 . Work a plain double crochet stitch into each of the next 2 sts 10 . Repeat from Step 1 to Step 10 to work the remaining 7 sts and complete the row. Now you need to work at least 3 rows of plain dc stitches in your darker colour. Then you can change to another colour (or back to the first colour) and repeat the spike cluster row, followed by 3 rows of plain dc stitches. To start with, work the spike cluster repeats directly above each other, separated by 6 rows of plain double crochet stitches 11 . Once you’re more confident with the pattern, try off-setting the spike clusters, separated by 3 rows of plain dc stitches 12 . With all three of these colourful spike stitch patterns, it’s best to use yarns in contrasting colours, such as one light, neutral-coloured yarn and one darker or brighter-coloured yarn. You could also try working up the patterns using scraps of yarn from your stash, or combine solid and variegated yarns for a totally different effect – the choice is yours!

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Written by Zoe Clements and Becky Skuse

hoW do i Work Spike clUsters? Use these simple stitches to create half-star shapes in your fabric.

Spike stitch mitts

Your ps e t s t x ne eative with you new e thi Get c ue and giv iq n h c te h stitc ct a t y. styli h proje

Make it snappy Becky Skuseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fingerless mitts are perfect for photography lovers and other practical types.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 59

Spike stitch mitts

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q Rico Baby Classic DK (50% acrylic, 50% polyamide, 50g/165m), 1 ball of each: Cream (020) Purple (016) Clay (037) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Two stitch markers For yarn stockists, contact Rico www.rico-design.co.uk TENSION 16 sts and 13 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over double crochet using a 4mm hook or size needed to obtain tension MEASUREMENTS To fit hand measurement around palm of 21cm (8¼in) Finished mittens measure 15cm (6in) long, 21.5cm (8½in) around palm ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

ecky Skuse, who designed these fab mitts, says: “Men deserve a crocheted treat every now and then, and these mittens are sure to be a winner. The simple spiked dc stitch pattern creates an argyle effect, while the cut-off design leaves the fingers and thumbs free.” NOTES Pattern is same for both hands. Each pair of mittens uses approx 10g of purple yarn, 5g of brown yarn and 30g of cream yarn. The cuff is made with rows of dc worked in the back loop and joined to make a tube. This is then rotated to work into the row ends. The main part of the hand is worked back and forth in rows to leave a gap for the thumb. The thumbhole opening is edged, and the yarn is rejoined to the top of the mitt to finish the upper part of the hand in the round. The upper rib is worked separately and sewn in place. The piece for the thumbhole is worked back and forth in rows onto the thumb opening, picking up stitches from each side of the opening as you work.

C MITTENS (MAKE 2) RIB CUFF Using Cream, ch7. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. [6 dc] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), working in back loop only dc in each dc to end, turn. Rows 3-30 Work as Row 2. Do not fasten off. Join last row to foundation ch using a ss seam. Do not fasten off. HAND MAIN Now rotate piece and work into row ends of the rib section as follows: Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc into each row end around, turn without joining to first dc (this creates thumb gap). [30 dc] Rows 2-4 Ch1, dc into each dc, turn. Fasten off Cream. Join Purple yarn with a ss in first st. Row 5 (RS) Ch1, dc in first dc, *spike dc in st 1 row down, spike dc in st 2 rows down, spike dc in st 1 row down, dc in

60 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

These mitts use only small amounts of yarn so would be perfect for stashbusting.

next dc; rep from * to last dc, dc in last dc, turn. Rows 6-8 Ch1, dc into each dc, turn. Fasten off Purple. Join Cream with a ss in first st. Row 9 (RS) Ch1, *spike dc in st 2 rows down, spike dc in st 1 row down, dc in next dc, spike dc in st 1 row down; rep from * to last 2 sts, spike dc in st 2 rows down, dc in last dc, turn. Rows 10-12 Ch1, dc into each dc, turn. Fasten off Cream. Join Brown with a ss in first st. Row 13 (RS) Ch1, dc in first dc, * spike dc in st 1 row down, spike dc in st 2 rows down, spike dc in st 1 row down, dc in next dc; rep from * to last dc, dc in last dc, turn. Rows 14-16 Ch1, dc into each dc, turn. Fasten off Brown. Join Cream with a ss in first st. Row 17 (RS) Ch1, *spike dc in st 2 rows down, spike dc in st 1 row down, dc in next dc, spike dc in st 1 row down (mark this stitch on this repeat only); rep from * to last 2 sts, spike dc in st 2 rows down, dc in last dc, turn. Move the stitch marker up on each subsequent row. Row 18 Ch1, 2dc in first dc, dc in each dc to last dc, 2dc in last dc, turn. [32 dc] Row 19 Ch1, 2dc in first dc, dc in each dc to last dc, 2dc in last dc, turn. [34 dc] Row 20 Ch1, 2dc in first dc, dc in each dc to last dc, 2dc in last dc, ss to first dc to join into round. [36 dc] Fasten off Cream. Now work the thumbhole edging,

Spike stitch mitts before returning to finish the hand. THUMBHOLE EDGING Rejoin Cream at top of Brown stripe on back of mitten. Round 1 (RS) Ch1, work 3dc into the row ends of each of 4 colour stripes down one side [12 dc], 1dc into top of rib cuff (mark this stitch), work 3dc into the row ends of each of 4 colour stripes up other side [12 dc], 6dc around top of thumb gap into Cream stripe, ss to first dc. [31 dc] Fasten off. HAND UPPER Now you can finish the hand. Locate the marked stitch on upper hand opening. With RS facing, join Purple with a ss in the stitch after marked stitch. Remove stitch marker. Continue working in rounds, but turn at the end of each round. Round 21 (RS) Ch1, dc in same dc, *spike dc in st 1 row down, spike dc in st 2 rows down, spike dc in st 1 row down, dc in next dc; rep from * to last dc, ss to first dc, turn. [36 dc] (Do your best around the thumbhole to maintain the stitch pattern, making sure it lines up with the stitches below.) Rounds 22-24 Ch1, dc into each dc, ss to first dc, turn. Fasten off Purple. Join Cream with a ss in first st. Round 25 (RS) Ch1, *spike dc in st 2 rows down, spike dc in st 1 row down, dc in next dc, spike dc in st 1 row down; rep from * around, ss to first dc, turn. [36 dc] Round 26 Ch1, (dc in each of next 7 dc, dc2tog) 4 times, ss to first dc, turn. [32 dc] Round 27 Ch1, (dc in each of next 6 dc, dc2tog) 4 times, ss to first dc, turn. [28 dc] Round 28 Ch1, dc into each dc, ss to first dc, turn. Fasten off Cream. UPPER RIB Using Cream, ch4. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. [3 dc] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), working in back loop only dc in each dc to end, turn.

Rows 3-28 Work as Row 2. Join last row to foundation ch using a ss seam. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the long tail to sew each row end to one stitch of the upper opening of the hand. THUMBHOLE Locate marked stitch at base of thumbhole, at rib cuff. Count 2 sts back from marked stitch and rejoin Cream here with a ss. Remove marker. Row 1 Ch1, dc into each of next 5 dc, ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1, turn. [5 dc, 1ss] Row 2 Ch1, dc in ss, dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 2 dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1) twice, turn. [5 dc, 2ss] Row 3 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 2 dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1) twice, turn. [5 dc, 2ss] Row 4 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc in each of next 5 dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1) twice, turn. [6 dc, 2ss] Row 5 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc in each of next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 3 dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1) twice, turn. [8 dc, 2ss] Rows 6-7 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc2tog, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1) twice, turn. [8 dc, 2ss] Row 8 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc in each of next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 4 dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1) twice, turn. [10 dc, 2ss] Row 9 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc in each of next 4 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 5 dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1) twice, turn. [12 dc, 2ss] Row 10 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc2tog, dc in each of next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 3 dc, dc2tog, dc in next dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1) twice, turn. [12 dc, 2ss] Row 11 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc in each of next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 6 dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging

The mitts have a ribbed cuff and edging but the thumbs are left plain and fuss-free.

Round 1) twice, turn. [14 dc, 2ss] Row 12 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc2tog, dc in each of next 4 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 4 dc, dc2tog, dc in next dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1) twice, turn. [14 dc, 2ss] Row 13 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc2tog, dc in each of next 9 dc, dc2tog, dc in next dc, (ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1) twice, turn. [13 dc, 2ss] Row 14 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc2tog, dc in each of next 8 dc, dc2tog, dc in next dc, ss to next unworked st of thumbhole edging Round 1, ss to next st of thumbhole edging Round 1 (this will be the stitch where you started this round), turn. [12 dc, 2ss] Row 15 Ch1, skip first ss, dc in next ss, dc in each of next 12 dc, 2dc in next st of thumbhole edging Round 1 (this will be the stitch where you started this round, at the top of thumbhole), ss to first dc. [15 dc] Fasten off and weave in all ends.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 61

h s s t a i l tcH E y e

our lashes at this swoon-worthy stit y r e t t ch. F lu

eyelash stitch

One for the fans of geometric effects, and a follow-on from the workshop on page 56, eyelash stitch pattern uses spike stitches across a number of double crochet rows. This creates a luscious triangle shape in your fabric that’s made up of little zigzags that get bigger and bigger. The combination of these graduated shapes with the ombré effect made by selecting deepening yarn shades is a match made in heaven. BASIC EYELASH STITCH PATTERN With Yarn A, ch a multiple of 6 + 2, as stated in the pattern overleaf. Row 1 (RS) 1dc into the second ch from the hook, 1dc into each st across, turn. Dc rows Work the number of dc rows stated in the pattern (on the sample above, there are 5 rows) as follows: Ch1 (does not count as dc), 1dc into each st across, turn. **Eyelash row Change to Yarn B, *1dc into the next st, 1dc into the next st of row below, 1dc into the next st 2 rows below, 1dc into the next st 3 rows below, 1dc into the next st 4 rows below, 1dc into the next st 5 rows below; repeat from *until last st, 1dc into the last st, turn. Dc rows Work the number of dc rows stated in the pattern. Repeat from ** once with Yarn C. Repeat from ** once with Yarn D. Fasten off and weave in ends.

saSsy tAblet sleevE coOl coRd tacO you can use EyeLash StiTch to CreAte a CheVron EffEct AcrOss the FabRiC, and it Also LooKs GreAt CroChEted in a CirClE.

FeistY phoNe casE

Note To work in rounds, join the end of each round with a ss in the first st. Patterns by Kath Webber.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 63

Bat those lashes and experiment with colour gradients to make this peachy tech collection.

eyelash stitch We’ve never met a taco we didn’t like. This is no exception.

A bit of ombré gloriousness for your favourite gadget.

saSsy tAblet sleevE feIsty Phone case

coOl coRd tacO

A pretty number made to fit an iPad, or adjust the size to fit any tablet.

Stay tangle-free with a cute keeper.

Guard that precious phone of yours with this coral eyelash stitch case.

Q Cascade Ultra Pima Cotton (100% Q Cascade Ultra Pima Cotton (100%

Q Cascade Ultra Pima Cotton (100%

cotton, 100g/200m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Deep Coral (3767), Yarn B Coral (3752), Yarn C White Peach (3753), Yarn D Natural (3718) For yarn stockists, contact Deramores 0800 488 0708 www.deramores.com Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A 5mm button and matching thread

cotton, 100g/200m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Deep Coral (3767), Yarn B Coral (3752), Yarn C White Peach (3753), Yarn D Natural (3718) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A 5mm button and matching thread

MEASUREMENTS 18x23.5cm (7x9¼in) TABLET SLEEVE Using Yarn A and leaving a very long tail for a dc seam, ch80. Row 1 (RS) 1dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1dc into each st across, turn. [79 sts] Follow the Basic Pattern, working 15 dc rows with Yarn A. Change to Yarn B and work an Eyelash row then 15 dc rows. Next row Change to Yarn C, work an Eyelash row, ch10 for button loop, ss to 10th ch from hook, turn. Work 15 dc rows in Yarn C. Change to Yarn D, work an Eyelash row then 15 dc rows. Do not fasten off. Fold piece in half, matching up stripes. Work a dc seam to join the short edges. Fasten off. Work a dc seam across the other short edge (Row 1) using long tail. Weave in ends. Sew button opposite button loop.

MEASUREMENTS 6.5x14cm (2½x5½in) PHONE CASE Using Yarn A, ch25, ss to first ch to form a long loop. [25 sts] Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as dc), 1dc into each ch around, ss into first dc to join, turn at the end of each round throughout the pattern. [25 sts] Work 5 dc rounds. Following the Basic Pattern, complete a pattern repeat with each of Yarn B, C and D, working an Eyelash round followed by 5 dc rounds in each repeat. Work a further 10 rounds in Yarn D. Next round Ch1 (does not count as dc) 1dc into first 6 sts, ch5 for button loop, 1dc into each of next 19 sts, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. Using matching thread, sew button to the front, lining up with the button loop.

cotton, 100g/200m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Deep Coral (3767), Yarn B Coral (3752), Yarn C White Peach (3753), Yarn D Natural (3718) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Press stud and matching thread MEASUREMENTS 9cm (3½in) diameter CORD TACO Work in a continuous spiral throughout. Rnd 1 With Yarn D, 6dc into a magic loop. Rnd 2 2dc into each st around. [12 sts] Rnd 3 With Yarn C, (2dc into next st, 1dc into centre hole) 6 times. [18 sts] Rnds 4-5 Increase by 6 sts evenly on each rnd. [30 sts at the end of Rnd 5] Rnd 6 With Yarn B, (2dc into next st, 1dc into next st on Rnd 5, 1dc into next st on Rnd 4, 1dc into next st on Rnd 3, 1dc into next st on Rnd 2) 6 times. [36 sts] Rnds 7-9 Inc by 6 sts evenly on each rnd. [54 sts at the end of Rnd 9] Rnd 10 With Yarn A, *2dc into next st on Rnd 9, (1dc into next st on Rnd 8, 1dc into next st on Rnd 7, 1dc into next st on Rnd 6, 1dc into next st on Rnd 9) twice; rep from * 5 times more. [60 sts] Rnds 11-12 1dc into each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew press stud to each side of Rnd 10. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 65

e N i w r e h h e T eL a c our very own crocheted Â˝rewo y p u k rks! Hoo

This stitch simply explodes in a whirl of twirling shapes. Use it to add bold and decorative detail to your makes. BASIC CATHERINE WHEEL PATTERN The pattern is made using two colours of yarn (Yarn A and Yarn B) and a multiple of 8 ch stitches. Using Yarn A, ch32. Row 1 (WS) Ch1 (counts as dc), *skip 3 ch, 9tr in next ch, skip 3 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * across, turn. [4 9-tr shells] Row 2 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), tr4tog over next 4 tr, ch3, *dc in next tr, ch3,

tr9tog over next (4 tr, dc, 4 tr), ch3; rep from * to last 9-tr shell, dc in next tr, ch3, tr5tog (with last leg of this st in the beg ch of the previous row), turn. [3 whole shells and 2 half shells] Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), 4tr in top of tr5tog, dc in dc, *9tr in tr9tog, dc in dc; rep from * to last 2 sts, skip tr4tog, 5tr in top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. Row 4 Attach Yarn B with a ss in the first st, *ch3, tr9tog over next 9 sts, ch3, dc in next tr; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg ch-3. Row 5 Ch1 (counts as dc), 9tr in tr9tog, *dc in dc, 9tr in tr9tog; rep from * to

end, dc in top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. Rows 6-7 Attach Yarn A with a ss in the first st and rep Rows 2 and 3. Fasten off. Row 8-9 Attach Yarn B with a ss in the first st and rep Rows 4-5. Fasten off. Rows 10-12 Attach Yarn A with a ss in the first st and repeat Rows 2-4. Fasten off. Note: on the above sample, we also worked a double crochet edging. Patterns by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz.

catherine wheel What mysteries does this most beguiling notebook contain?

Use stunning catherine wheel stitch to make vibrant accessories for work, play or blogging.

This cover will have you reaching for your camera more often.

NotebOok cOver

CoffeE cup cosy

Cool CamerA straP

A cover this striking could surely only house books filled with the brightest ideas and most riveting thoughts.

Some days, a cup of coffee is like a precious, life-giving elixir. Give your caffeine fix the VIP treatment with this jaunty little buttoned number.

Not only does a crocheted camera strap look awesome, it also adds an extra squishy layer that will make it much more comfortable to wear. This one’s worked in washable cotton.

Q Stylecraft Classique Cotton DK (100%

cotton, 100g/184m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Seville (3670) Yarn B Dove (3096) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook MEASUREMENTS 18x24cm (7x9½in) COVER Using Yarn B, ch41. Rows 1-3 Work Rows 1-3 as given for Basic Catherine Wheel Stitch Pattern. Fasten off. Rows 4-5 Attach Yarn A with a ss and work Rows 4 and 5 as given for Basic Pattern. Fasten off. Rows 6-7 Attach Yarn B with a ss and work Rows 2 and 3 as given for Basic Catherine Pattern. Fasten off. Continue working in pattern as set until a total of 19 rows have been worked. Continue in Yarn B, working a Row 4 of the Basic Pattern, do not fasten off. With WS facing, ss the long edges together, then ss the bottom together, turn right side out. Using Yarn A, work a round of reverse double crochet around top of cover. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Q Stylecraft Classique Cotton DK

(100% cotton, 100g/184m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Seville (3670) Yarn B Dove (3096) For yarn stockists, contact Stylecraft 01535 609798 www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q 2 buttons and matching thread MEASUREMENTS 14x7.5cm (5½x3in) folded flat CUP COSY Using Yarn A, ch48. Work Row 1 of the Basic Stitch Pattern with Yarn A and then alternate Yarns B and A for another 4 rows of the pattern. Fasten off. TO FINISH Using Yarn A, evenly space 12 htr along both short edges of the sleeve. Sew the two buttons onto one of the short edges. The buttons can be secured between the htr stitches to close the sleeve. Weave in all ends. double crochet around top of cover. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Q Stylecraft Classique Cotton DK

(100% cotton, 100g/184m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Seville (3670) Yarn B Dove (3096) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook MEASUREMENTS 43x4.5cm (17x1¾in) CAMERA STRAP Using Yarn A, ch80. Rows 1-3 Work Rows 1-3 as given for Basic Stitch Pattern. Fasten off. Rows 4-5 Attach Yarn B with a ss and work Rows 4 and 5 as given for Basic Stitch Pattern. Row 6 Repeat Row 2 as given for Basic Stitch Pattern. Do not fasten off. TO FINISH Slip stitch the long sides of the camera strap cover together. Fasten off and weave in all ends. Turn the strap cover inside out to hide the finishing slip stitches and thread the camera strap through the cover. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 67

ig Ngham stitcH

Bri

ee shades of yarn in this variega r h t r e ted p geth o t atte g n

rn.

gingham stitch

Gingham will always have a special place in our hearts – this ubiquitous pattern is so cheery and bright it’s hard not to love it. And it’s enjoyed a resurgence recently due to the hallowed ‘gingham altar’ in The Great British Bake Off. Celebrate this fab print with your very own crocheted version and make our funky picnic set in cool blues or, if you prefer the classic combo, in red and white. And why not go big with the pattern and make your very own tablecloth? BASIC GINGHAM STITCH PATTERN Note Carry the unused yarn colour behind the stitches on the WS of the work. Using Yarn A and 3.5mm hook, chain a multiple of 3 plus an extra 5 ch – we chained 47 for this sample. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th ch from hook and in each of next 2 ch, using Yarn B tr into each of next 3 ch, tr in each ch to end alternating between Yarns A and B every 3 sts, turn. Fasten off Yarn B. Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in each st across, working with Yarn A into all the Yarn B sts of the previous row, and Yarn C into all the Yarn A sts. Turn. Fasten off Yarn C. Row 3 As Row 2, working Yarn A into all the Yarn C sts, and Yarn B into all the Yarn A sts of the previous row, turn. Rows 2 and 3 form the gingham pattern. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 as required.

PicniC basKet lIner CutleRy poucH HooKing BanDs of GinGham and ConTrAstIng TheSe With a SolId ColOur ReaLly BriNgs out the SubTle TonEs of the PatTern.

BottlE coveR

Patterns by Val Pierce.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 69

Get picnic ready by hooking these fun gingham accessories. Everything tastes better outdoors.

gingham stitch

Eating gazpacho with your hands is no joke. Do it right – pack cutlery.

This neat bag fits most bottles – a lovely touch if it’s a gift for your host.

PicniC baSket Liner cuTlery poucH

boTtle Cover

Picnic blankets aren’t the only crochet make you might need if you’re dining al fresco. How about lining your basket with a pretty cloth that also doubles up as a napkin?

Whatever your tipple, keep it out of the sun and looking fancy. Chin chin.

If your picnic’s a classier affair, naturally you’ll be eating with knives, forks and spoons. Keep your tools tidy with one of these pouches. This size also works for stowing your iPod.

Q DMC Natura Cotton

(100% cotton, 50g/155m) 2 balls of Yarn D Prussian (64) 1 ball of each: Yarn A Ivory (02), Yarn B Glacier (87), Yarn C Aquamarine (25) (yarn amounts are enough for all three projects) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook

(100% cotton, 50g/155m) 2 balls of Yarn D Prussian (64) 1 ball of each: Yarn A Ivory (02), Yarn B Glacier (87), Yarn C Aquamarine (25) For yarn stockists, contact DMC 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook

MEASUREMENTS 32x35cm (12½x13¾in) BASKET LINER Using Yarn A, ch62. Row 1 (RS) Work as given for Row 1 of Basic Pattern. Work Rows 2-3 of Basic Pattern until piece measures approx 32cm from foundation chain, ending with a Row 2. Fasten off and weave in ends. EDGING With Yarn D, dc evenly around working 3dc in each corner st. Repeat for a further 4 rounds. For the final round, turn to the WS and work (tr in next st, ss in next st) around. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block and press.

MEASUREMENTS 15cm (6in) high, 10.5cm (4in) diameter CUTLERY POUCH Using Yarn D, ch44. Alternate a row of tr with a row of dc for 12 rows. Fasten off Yarn D. Join Yarn A. Set up the gingham pattern by alternating 3 sts of Yarn B and Yarn A on the first row, then repeat Rows 2 and 3 of the Basic Pattern twice. Fasten off Yarns A and B. With Yarn D, work a row of dc. Fold in half and sew up the base and side seams. Finish with a round of edging as for the final round of Picnic Basket Liner.

Q DMC Natura Cotton

(100% cotton, 50g/155m) 2 balls of Yarn D Prussian (64) 1 ball of each: Yarn A Ivory (02), Yarn B Glacier (87), Yarn C Aquamarine (25) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook MEASUREMENTS 21cm (8¼in) high, 13cm (5in) diameter (fits average wine bottle) BOTTLE COVER Using Yarn D, work a dc circle for the base starting with 6 sts, and increasing evenly by 6 sts each round until you have 54 sts. Work a round of tr in the back loop only. Work a round of dc and a round of tr, and repeat these 2 rounds a further 4 times. Fasten off Yarn D. Set up the gingham pattern by alternating 3 sts of Yarn B and Yarn C on the first round, followed by a round of Yarn C and A, using the image as a guide so that the Yarn C sts form a chequerboard pattern. Rep these 2 rows twice more, then the first row once again. Work 9 rounds of dc in Yarn D. Next round Ch1, 7dc, ch12, skip 12 dc, 15dc, ch12, skip 12 dc, 6dc, ss to first dc to join. Work 3 further rounds of dc. Turn to the WS and repeat final round as for Picnic Basket Liner. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 71

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From the makers of

Discover Lace Hook yourself some sophisticated makes with dainty and elegant lace stitches.

2 7 PROJEC

TO CROCHET TODAY!

a gorgeous bedroom makeover

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 73

d t n r e a l N liS a f bine row m o C

s of lacy stitches with pretty

shells .

fan and trellis

From making dainty homewares, as weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve shown here, to pretty shawls, blankets and wraps, this delicate openweave stitch is sure to become a firm favourite in your repertoire. BASIC FAN AND TRELLIS PATTERN Multiple of 12 sts plus 11 (add 1 for foundation chain) Row 1 1dc into second ch from hook, and in each st to end, turn. Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st to end, turn. (Repeat Row 2 as required by pattern) Row 3 Ch1, dc into first st, (ch5, skip 3 sts, 1dc into next st) repeat to last 2 sts, ch2, skip 1 st, tr into last st, turn. Row 4 Ch1, dc into first st, skip ch-2 sp, (7tr into next ch-5 sp, dc into next ch-5 sp*, ch5, dc into next ch-5 sp) repeat to end of row ending at *, ch2, dtr into last st, turn. Row 5 Ch1, dc into first st, (ch5, dc into second tr of 7-tr group, ch5, dc into sixth tr of 7-tr group*, ch5, dc into next ch-5 sp) repeat to end of row ending at *, ch2, dtr into last st, turn. Repeat (Rows 4 & 5) until piece is the required length, ending on a Row 4. Row 6 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next ch-2 sp, (dc in second tr of 7-tr group, ch3, dc in sixth tr of 7-tr group*, ch3, dc in central ch of next ch-5, ch3) repeat to end of row ending at *, 1dc in last st, turn. Row 7 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in next st, (3dc into next ch-sp, 1dc into next st) repeat to last 3 sts, dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in last st, turn. Row 8 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Repeat Row 8 as indicated by pattern.

DivinE vaSe coveR raVishiNg ruNner as it ReqUires a lot of CouNting, This StiTch is RecOmMenDed for IntErMedIate and More ConFiDent CroChEteRs.

ClassIc cuShion

Patterns by Sara Huntington.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 75

Create the perfect boudoir with our sweet collection of vintage-style lace accessories.

fan and trellis Every home should have one.

PIET BOON CONCRETE WALLPAPER FROM A SELECTION AT WWW.BEUT.CO.UK/DESIGNER-WALLPAPER.HTML

Ooh, we love a bit of lace – vintage appeal and such fun to hook.

DivinE vaSe coveR

ClassIc cuShion

raVishiNg ruNner

What better way to show off your favourite blooms than in a vase adorned with lacy crochet? This fab design fits best on straight vases.

No boudoir is truly complete without a bed piled high with plump pillows. Top off your collection with this delightfully frivolous cushion. Every self-respecting starlet deserves one.

Add a bit of old Hollywood glamour to your bedside or dressing table with a pretty tasselled runner. It’s easy on the eye and helps protect your surfaces from scrapes as well.

Q King Cole Bamboo Cotton 4ply

(48% bamboo, 52% cotton, 100g/371m), 1 ball of Dusty Pink (1023) For stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.co.uk Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q Tapestry needle

Q King Cole Bamboo Cotton 4ply

(48% bamboo, 52% cotton, 100g/371m), 1 ball of Dusty Pink (1023) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q Tapestry needle Q Cushion, 25cm (9¾in) square Q Trimming, 1.4m (1½yds) long

(48% bamboo, 52% cotton, 100g/371m), 1 ball of Dusty Pink (1023) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q Tapestry needle

MEASUREMENTS Vase cover measures 37x14cm (14½x5½in) before seaming

MEASUREMENTS To fit a 25cm (9¾in) square cushion

VASE COVER Ch72. Follow the Basic Fan and Trellis Pattern, repeating Row 2 once more. Repeat Rows 4 & 5 until the piece measures 12.5cm (or length required, less 2cm to allow for the final rows). Work Rows 6-8. Fasten off. Work 30dc evenly down each short side of the finished piece. Fasten off and weave in ends.

CUSHION Ch60. Follow the Basic Fan and Trellis Pattern, repeating Row 2, 3 times. Repeat Rows 4 & 5 until the piece measures 24cm. Work Rows 6-8, repeating Row 8, 3 times. Work 66dc evenly along the side of the finished piece, working 4 more rows of dc along each side. Fasten off and weave in ends.

TO FINISH Sew together the two short ends of the vase cover with the tapestry needle to form a tube. Slip over vase.

TO FINISH Sew the finished piece to the front of the cushion, then sew the trimming around the edges.

MEASUREMENTS Runner measures 14.5x58cm (5¾x22¾in) without tassels RUNNER Ch36. Follow the Basic Fan and Trellis Pattern. Repeat Rows 4 & 5 until the piece measures 64cm. Work Rows 6-8. Fasten off. Dc evenly down each long side of the finished piece, turn and work a further row of dc on each side. TASSELS Cut 11 strands of yarn measuring approx 34cm long. Fold in half and attach to the end of the runner. Make 8 tassels for each end of the runner, using the images as a guide. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 77

mesH stItch delicate with your next croche d n a y r t pro or ai f ject o G

Easy, breezy, beautiful. The intricate and fine fabric created with mesh stitch is perfect for accessories where a touch of elegance is key. Best of all? You just need trebles. BASIC MESH STITCH PATTERN Make the number of foundation ch

instructed in the pattern. To make the sample above, ch28. Pattern is a multiple of 2 + 1 sts. Row 1 Tr in 6th ch from hook, *ch1, skip next ch, tr in next ch; rep from * across, turn. Row 2 Ch4 (counts as 1 tr and 1 ch), tr

in next tr, *ch1, skip next tr, tr in next tr; rep from * across, turn. Rows 3-9 Repeat Row 2 another 7 times or as instructed in pattern. Fasten off and weave in all ends. Patterns by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz.

mesh stitch

Dance around it, or pop your latest crochet project inside – the choice is yours.

Add touch of glamour to your party outfit with a mesh shawl.

You, tassels and the dance floor – a mesh made in heaven?

drAwstrIng pOuch

trIanglE shawL

veRy swIshy Belt

A lined evening bag with space for your keys, purse, phone and a lippy.

Fancy a simple cover-up with buckets of style? We’ve got just the thing. It’s perfect if you’re a shawl first-timer.

This is a belt that’s made for sashaying in. Work a long, narrow strip of mesh stitch and embellish it with beads and tassels. Job done.

Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton,

50g/100m), 2 balls of Petrol (74) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q 2 silver beads Q Fabric for lining, approx 50x20cm

(20x8in) MEASUREMENTS 17cm (6¾in) wide and 22cm (8½in) long BAG SIDE (MAKE 2) Ch30. Row 1 Dc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch to end, turn. [29 dc] Rows 2-5 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each dc across, turn. Row 6 Ch4 (counts as 1 tr and 1 ch), skip next dc, tr in next dc, *ch1, skip next dc, tr in next dc; rep from * across, turn. Rows 7-17 Work as for Row 2 of Basic Stitch Pattern. Rows 18-19 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. Fasten off and weave in ends. Join 2 pieces tog using a dc seam along sides and bottom. To make tie, ch80. Fasten off and weave in ends. Thread tie through holes in mesh st. Cut 6 pieces of yarn, each 30cm long. Make groups of 3 pieces, fold each group in half and attach one tassel to each end of tie. Attach a bead to each tassel. Sew in fabric lining.

Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton,

50g/100m), 3 balls of Petrol (74) For yarn stockists, contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882 818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook Q 3 silver beads MEASUREMENTS 60cm (23½in) long and 105cm (41¼in) wide SHAWL Make a magic loop. Row 1 Ch4 (counts as 1 tr and 1 ch), (tr, ch1, tr) into loop, turn. Row 2 Ch5 (counts as 1 tr and 2 ch), tr in st at base of ch, ch1, tr in next tr, ch1, (tr, ch1, tr) in last tr, turn. Rows 3-37 Ch5 (counts as 1 tr and 2 ch), tr in st at base of ch, ch1 *tr in next tr, ch1; rep from * across, (tr, ch1, tr) in fourth ch of t-ch on prev row, turn. Fasten off and weave in ends. TASSELS Cut 9 pieces of yarn, each 30cm long. Make groups of 3 pieces, fold each group in half and attach one tassel to each corner of the shawl. Attach a bead to each tassel.

Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton,

50g/100m), 1 ball of Petrol (74) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q 4 silver beads

MEASUREMENTS 3.5cm (1¼in) wide and 135cm (53in) long BELT Ch202. Row 1 Dc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch to end, turn. [201 dc] Row 2 Ch4 (counts as 1 tr and 1 ch), skip the next dc, tr in the next dc, *ch1, skip next dc, tr in the next dc; rep from * across, turn. Rows 3 Work as for Row 2 of Basic Stitch Pattern. Row 4 Ch1 (does not count as a st), dc in each ch-1 sp and tr across. Fasten off and weave in ends. TASSELS Cut 24 pieces of yarn, each 30cm long. Make groups of 3 pieces, fold each group in half and attach to the short ends of the belt, to form 4 tassels at each end. Attach a bead to the first and last tassel at each end of the scarf. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 79

ss a l c r e t MaWse show you thae kteecbheaniqutiufue l

Broomstick crochet Conjure up some magic with your hook and a stick to make a pretty lacy crochet stitch.

to m you’ll need acce o ie . c ochet

lso called peacock eye crochet, witchcraft lace and jiffy lace (because it’s so quick to work), this form of pretty, open crochet is worked with yarn, a large knitting needle (or an actual broomstick if you’re feeling daring!) and a standard crochet hook. Broomstick crochet dates back to the 19th century and gets its name from being worked with a broom handle, which was the most conveniently available big ‘needle’. These days, a large knitting needle will do the trick. This technique, full of twists and loops, is actually much simpler than it looks. A combination of large loops are worked over the big needle and gathered together in groups of 4-6 stitches to make lacy patterns that have a gentle twist. You can use double, half treble, treble – or indeed any other type of crochet stitch – to create quite

different lacy effects. The larger the needle, the bigger the loops you’ll create. You can even change sizes of ‘big’ needle from row to row to create your own individual designs. Both the crochet rows and the loop rows are worked from the same side, so you don’t ever need to turn your work. The open construction means that broomstick crochet is a fast stitch to work, and a magnificent way to showcase special yarns with one-off textures, twists, slubs or lustres. If you use a fine yarn, you’ll get a light, lacy fabric, whereas heavier yarns will create a thicker and cosier effect. All you need is some yarn, a hook that matches your yarn size and a ‘broomstick’. The diameter of the broomstick can be any size, but 10mm to 25mm are the most popular for creating the characteristic broomstick crochet look.

Find out More If this has whetted your appetite, here’s some further reading. THE BOOK Crochet Lace Innovations by Doris Chan (Potter Craft, £16.99)

What Crochet designer Doris Chan brings an essence of cool to some traditional techniques. Practise broomstick, hairpin and exploded motifs. Why These methods are surprisingly easy to learn and we love the unique, modern twist Chan puts on her garments. There are 20 patterns for you to try, including delicate skirts and wraps.

THE WEBSITE 01

What Don’t have a broomstick? You can stock up on all the equipment you’ll need to get going with this lace technique at www.threadoflife.co.uk Why The site is run by designer Helen Jordan and you’ll find information here on her own designs and workshops. Helen’s broomstick lace patterns are on Ravelry.

THE BLOG

What Join a self-confessed crochet geek at www.cultofcrochet.wordpress.com as she experiments with crochet techniques. Why There are great tutorials, patterns (including a fab broomstick wristband) and handy hints for left-handed crafters.

Tammy Hildebrand’s cool and colourful ‘Amelia’

vest is a must-make for warmer weather. See more at www.hotlavacrochet.blogspot.co.uk. 02

The texture of broomstick crochet fabric is shown

off beautifully in this simple lace collar by Heidi Hengel (www.hellospeckless.com) 03

We love Alicia Wildman’s delicate mitts. Find

more of her crochet at www.craftlikewild.etsy.com. 80 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

GetTing StaRted With BroOmStiCk CroChet What Else CouLd i LeaRn? The potential is huge for colourwork and shaping.

The three vital materials you’ll need for the technique.

Broomstick is a simple and versatile form of crocheted lace that’s quick to learn, yet has infinite possibilities for creating light, open fabrics with great drape. We’ll show you what equipment you need to make it, plus the basic technique, and then you can turn to page 84 and have a go at the funky looped bracelet.

DK YARN AND A HOOK You can use any yarn, but when learning use a smooth DK that won’t split, plus a matching hook.

BROOMSTICK You’ll also need a ‘broomstick’, which can also be a knitting needle, marker pen or dowel.

Once you’re confident in the basic technique, it’s time to delve deeper into broomstick crochet’s creative potential with a guide to colourwork, shaping and seaming. We’ll explain all of these fab techniques, and then it’s time to put them into practice with Becky Skuse’s colourful zigzag wrap on page 88.

COLOURWORK

SHAPING

You can change colour at the start of a loop row or a stitch row to create all sorts of effects.

Happily, increasing and decreasing in broomstick crochet is really simple.

hoW do i Start makiNg brOomstIck looPs? Start by pulling up long loops onto your broomstick. There are various ways to start off your first broomstick crochet piece. You could make a foundation chain, work a row of crochet stitches into the chain and then work a row of broomstick stitches. Or you could start off by making a foundation chain and then work a row of broomstick stitches straight away – this is the method we’ll show you how to do because it means you can get stuck in straight away. To start, chain 20 (or the number of stitches you want – we’re going to work 4 groups of 5 broomstick loops, so 4 x 5 = 20). Remove the hook from the last chain and lengthen it to form a large loop. Place this loop onto your ‘broomstick’ 01 . *Insert your crochet hook into the next chain, yrh and pull up a

loop 02 . Lengthen this loop and place it onto the broomstick 03 . Keeping tension on the working yarn, repeat from * until all the chains have been worked into.

You should have 20 loops on the broomstick. To work the next row, please note that there’s no need to turn – you’ll be working from the front of the fabric at all times 04 .

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 81

hoW do i woRk stItcheS intO the loops? Master broomstick crochet with these simple steps. Next you need to work standard crochet stitches into the long loops you’ve pulled up. This is where the magic of broomstick crochet happens. First, you need to drop the working yarn to avoid pulling out the final broomstick loop. Now we’re going to ask you to take all the loops off the broomstick – take a deep breath, it’s okay, the loops won’t unravel, as long as you don’t pull on the working yarn 01 . (If you’d prefer, you can just slide off five loops at a time instead.) So when you’re ready, gently remove the loops from the broomstick 02 . Insert your crochet hook from right to left into the first 5 broomstick loops. Make sure that all the loops are the same height, pulling back on the working yarn if you need to shorten the final loop 03 . Take up the working yarn again and work yrh 04 . Then pull the yarn through all 5 loops 05 . Work yrh and pull through (this is chain 1) – this will secure the group of broomstick loops and act as the turning chain for your row of stitches 06 . If you’re planning to work stitches taller than double crochet, you’ll need to work more chains here, as appropriate. Now work your stitches into the first group of broomstick loops – you need to make one stitch for every loop in the group 07 . In our example, we have 5 broomstick loops in each group so work 5 dc stitches into the first group of loops. If you were working groups of 4 broomstick loops, you would work 4 stitches here instead. *Insert your hook from right to left into the next 5 broomstick loops and work 5dc sts into this group. Repeat from * across the row until you have 4 groups of 5 sts 08 .

82 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

hoW do i ContiNue tHe brOomstIck fAbric? Alternate rows of broomstick loops and crochet stitches. You will now have 20 dc stitches and you’ll be ready to make the next row of broomstick loops. There will be one loop remaining on your hook after working the final dc. Pull gently to lengthen this loop and place it on your broomstick 01 .

Now pull up loops in each stitch and place them onto the broomstick in the same way as before – to do this, *insert the hook in the next st, yrh and pull up a loop, then lengthen it and place it on the broomstick. Repeat from * across the row, in

each dc stitch, to complete the broomstick loop row 02 . Now you can work crochet stitches into the broomstick loops as before, making 4 groups of 5 broomstick loops (also called a 5-loop cluster). You’ll soon see how the fabric is

made up of a row of broomstick loops and a row of plain crochet stitches. Continue as set, alternating these two rows, until your fabric is the desired length. To finish your work, simply fasten off in the usual way at the end of a stitch row.

whAt elSe caN i tRy? Have fun experimenting with the technique.

changes will alter the size and quality of the broomstick fabric. Swatch 02 uses a laceweight yarn and a 20mm broomstick, so the resulting fabric is open, airy, light and lacy. Sample 03 also uses a 20mm broomstick, but with a heavier, chunky yarn to create a thick, dense fabric that’s perfect for cosy blankets or oversized garments. These two samples both use the same 20mm broomstick, so they are the same height but they vary in width and density.

These are two very different effects, but you’ll find that making small changes can make a big difference. You could also try working a different number of stitches and various groups of loops – there’s more on this from page 86, but for now try working 1dc stitch into each individual broomstick loop instead of groups of loops to create a ‘dropped stitch’ effect in the fabric. The possibilities of broomstick crochet are huge so the sky’s the limit for your creativity.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 83

Written by Zoe Clements, Becky Skuse and Emma Clegg

Once you can work straight pieces of fabric and you’ve got to grips with the technique, you can experiment. On the stitch row, try varying the stitch you work, such as triple trebles for a lacy look. Or you could try using different broomstick sizes on different rows to create different effects – 01 alternates using a 15mm and a 20mm broomstick. You could also try working samples using different sizes of broomstick and different weights of yarn – you’ll see that these

table runner

Off the cuff Make Becky Skuseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impressive buttoned bracelet with this striking crochet technique.

Your ps e t t s t x e n ut you broom tick c ocjuhe e P con e te t and skill to th tty bracelet. up a pre

Broomstick bracelet

IMPROVE 4PLY YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q Bergère de France Reflet (61% organic cotton, 39% polyester, 100g/300m), 1 ball of Ocean (50284) (bracelet uses 5g of this yarn) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q One 12mm knitting needle (or other ‘broomstick’ of the same diameter, such as a marker pen) Q 3 small buttons For yarn stockists, contact Bergère de France www.bergeredefrance.co.uk MEASUREMENTS Finished bracelet measures 4.5cm wide and 17cm long, or length to suit you ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

esigner Becky Skuse says: “When you’re learning a new technique, it’s always best to start off small. This little bracelet is the perfect first project for using your new broomstick crochet skills. There are only 12 stitches to worry about and each broomstick row is so tall that you’ll make progress really quickly. The Reflet yarn gives a very pretty finish, with sparkly strands woven in with the soft organic cotton to give your wrist a real treat. With a bit of practice, you’ll soon be whipping up these bracelets in a flash for friends and family.”

C NOTES Bracelet will stretch to fit most wrists, or follow the instructions in the pattern to make it longer or shorter to suit you. The final pattern repeat forms the buttonholes while the first 3 rows of double crochet form the button placket, so remember that these rows will overlap when worn. BRACELET Ch13. Row 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch to end, turn. [12 dc] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each dc to end, turn. Row 3 Ch1, dc in each dc to end, do not turn. Row 4 Lengthen the working loop and place on the 12mm broomstick, *insert hook into the next dc, pull up a loop and place on needle; repeat from * to end, do not turn. [12 broomstick loops]

No need to work fiddly buttonholes – these fellas fasten through the final pattern repeat. Row 5 Insert hook into first 4 loops from right to left and remove the loops from the broomstick (don’t pull on the working yarn), yrh and pull a loop through the 4 broomstick loops, ch1, 4dc into same 4-loop group, *4dc into the next 4-loop group; repeat from * once more, do not turn. [12 dc] Rows 4 and 5 form pattern. Repeat Rows 4 and 5 another 10 times or until bracelet is desired length (remember the two ends will overlap when worn). Fasten off and weave in ends. TO MAKE UP Fold the bracelet around so that the two ends meet and the right side is facing outward. Sew 3 buttons onto the first 3 rows of dc stitches, lining them up with the buttonholes at the other end.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO SEW ON A BUTTON

1 Use a pin to mark position of your button, lining up with the buttonhole. Secure yarn on wrong side of fabric and thread onto tapestry needle. Bring needle out at pin mark and through button.

2 Push the needle back through the button and the fabric, pulling the yarn firmly. Bring the needle out through the fabric and button, and back down again.

3 Take yarn to the front of the fabric, but under button and NOT through button. Wrap yarn around twice, pull yarn tight (to create a shank and prevent fraying).

4 Take the yarn to the back of the fabric and weave in the end to secure.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 85

ss a l c r e t MaWse show you thae kteecbheaniqutiufue l to m you’ll need acce o ie . c ochet

More broomstick Take your broomstick skills to the next level with colour effects, shaping and top tips for seaming.

whAt coLour EffecTs caN i Create? When it comes to broomstick colourwork, the sky is the limit. It’s very easy to work stripes and other colour effects in broomstick crochet, although changing colour is slightly different to standard crochet. You can change colour at the beginning of a broomstick loop row or the beginning of a stitch row, to create slightly different looks in your fabric. 01 If you change colour at the start of a loop row and continue with that colour for the stitch row, you’ll create the classic ‘peacock’ look that broomstick crochet is known for. 02 If you change colour at the start of a stitch row, you can create a narrow stripe in the fabric if you change colour again for the loop row.

hoW do i CreatE colOur sTripes? Master broomstick colourwork with these simple steps. To practise changing colour, return to the first sample you made in this workshop, where we had 20 sts worked in 4 groups of 5-loop clusters. To change colour at the start of the stitch row, you’ll need to fasten off and secure the old colour at the end of the broomstick loop row. There are a number of different ways to do this, but we recommend that you cut off the old yarn (leaving a tail approx 10cm long) while all the loops are still on the broomstick and then weave in the tail end straight away. Then you can remove the loops from the broomstick. Now you can join the new colour to the top of the first loop group, as follows: Insert hook into the first 5 loops from right to left, make a slipknot in the new colour and place it on the hook 01 . Pull the slipknot through the group, work yrh and pull through the slipknot. Tighten the slipknot to secure 02 . Now ch1 and work your 5dc stitches into the first group of broomstick loops as usual 03 . Continue working 5dc into each 5-loop group across the row to create a stitch row in a different colour 04 . You can now continue working with this colour or change back to the first colour at the start of the loop row. To change colour at the start of a loop row, you’ll need to fasten off the stitch row you’ve just worked. To do this, work yrh and pull through the final stitch, in the same way as you would normally fasten off 05 . Now insert your hook into the top of the last stitch and loop the new yarn around the hook 06 . Pull the loop of the new yarn colour through the stitch, making sure you leave a long tail (approx 10cm). Again, we recommend that you weave in the tail end straight away. Place the loop of the new yarn colour onto the broomstick 07 . Work the rest of the loop row as usual with the new yarn 08 . You can create various stripy looks by using a contrasting colour for every stitch row or every loop row, or every stitch row and loop row, or every loop row and stitch row. Or work 4 rows in one colour, 4 rows in another colour, or any other combination that you like – each one will form a different effect. 86 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

hoW do i Shape the BroomStick fabrIc? Create more complex fabrics with simple shaping skills. To tackle complex broomstick patterns, you’ll need to learn to increase and decrease – luckily, this is very straightforward! In broomstick crochet, you can easily create increases or decreases when you work the stitches into the groups of broomstick loops. Let’s return to our example from page 82, where we had 20 sts worked in 4 groups of 5-loop clusters. Make a row of broomstick loops and slide them off, then insert your hook from right to left in the first 5 loops as usual. Make sure all the loops are the same height, work yrh, pull through all 5 loops and ch1 to secure the first group of broomstick loops. To create an increase, you simply work an extra dc into each group of broomstick

loops. So in our example, you’d work 6dc stitches into the first group of broomstick loops, instead of 5dc 01 . Then work 6dc into the next 5-loop group and into each group across the row. You should now have 24 dc stitches, so you will have increased by 4 stitches. On the next row, you’ll pull up 24 loops 02 and the fabric will be wider. On the following row, you can work 1dc for every broomstick loop in the group, as usual. In our example, you could work 6dc into each 6-loop group and still have 4 groups – alternatively, you could change the group size to 6 groups of 4 broomstick loops and work 4dc into each group. Follow the instructions in your pattern or experiment and see which look you prefer.

To create a decrease, you simply work one less dc in each group of broomstick loops. So in our example, you’d work 4dc stitches into the first group of broomstick loops, instead of 5dc 03 . Then work 4dc into the next 5-loop group and into each group across the row. You should now have 16 dc stitches, so you will have decreased by 4 stitches. On the next row, you’ll pull up 16 broomstick loops and the fabric will be narrower 04 . On the following row, you can work 1dc for every broomstick loop in the group, as usual. In our example, you would work 4dc into each 4-loop group and still have 4 groups. Just experiment and you’ll find that the potential of broomstick crochet is amazing!

hoW do i Join BroomStick fabriCs? Take care when seaming to maintain the lacy look. Since broomstick crochet creates a lacy fabric, any seaming down the side of the fabric needs to mimic this. So you’ll need to get creative about how you join the sides of loop rows and stitch rows. Before working any seam, always block the stretchy broomstick fabric to the correct

measurements. Then place the two fabrics to be joined with wrong sides together (you can also work the seams with right sides together if you’d prefer to hide the seams). Line up the rows so that the stitch rows and loop rows sit over each other. Join the yarn (preferably the same yarn you used

for the project) at the start of a stitch row. Then work a slip stitch or double crochet seam across the stitch rows, but work a chain length or elongated chain across the broomstick loop rows. This will join together the stitch rows while also keeping the loop rows open and lacy.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 87

Your ps e t s t x e n dvance you broom tic k A l with ou c ochet skil g w ap. st ipy zigza

Sunshine stripes Get nifty with those chevrons and colour changes to make Becky Skuseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loopy crochet wrap.

Broomstick wrap

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q Cascade Ultra Pima (100% cotton, 100g/200m), 1 skein of each: Buttercup (3748), Lavender (3778), Regal (3708) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q One 15mm knitting needle (or other ‘broomstick’ of the same diameter) For yarn stockists, contact Love Crochet www.lovecrochet.com MEASUREMENTS Finished wrap measures 32cm wide and 102cm long, or the length you’d like ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

esigner Becky says: “If you’ve never hooked zigzag stripes, prepare to be addicted! The gentle ripples of colour in this wrap create a beautiful effect that’s both a joy to work. Alternating lacy rows of broomstick crochet with solid rows of treble stitches gives the wrap elegance and structure – a winning combination!” NOTES To adjust the width of the wrap, just add more or fewer chains to the foundation chain, in a multiple of 19 + 17 chains. Change colour randomly, as desired, by fastening off one colour at the end of a row and joining a new colour at the start of the next row. For a detailed list of the colour order of the wrap pictured, visit Becky’s blog at makemedo.wordpress.com/ 2016/03/28/zigzag-broomstick. We recommend weaving in your yarn ends as you go.

C WRAP Ch74. Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc2tog over next 2 sts, 6dc, *3dc in next st, 8dc, skip 2 sts, 8dc; repeat from * twice, 3dc in next st, 6dc, dc2tog, turn. [74 sts] Row 2 Ch2, tr in next st (counts as tr2tog), 6tr, *3tr in next st, 8tr, skip 2 sts, 8tr; repeat from * twice, 3tr in next st, 6tr, tr2tog, turn. [74 sts]

When hooking stripes, it’s always a good idea to weave in your ends as you work. Row 3 Repeat Row 1, but do not turn. Row 4 Pull up a broomstick loop in each stitch. [74 loops] Row 5 Pull yarn through first 4 loops, ch1 (does not count as st), 3dc into first 4 loops, 3dc into next 3 loops, *5dc into next 3 loops, (3dc into next 3 loops) twice, 2dc into next 4 loops, (3dc into next 3 loops) twice; repeat from * twice, 5dc into next 3 loops, 3dc into next 3 loops, 3dc in next 4 loops, turn. [74 sts] Rows 2-5 form pattern. Repeat Rows 2-5 until work measures 102cm or the length desired (we worked 109 rows in total), changing colour at the end/start of a row, as desired. Repeat Rows 2 and 3. Fasten off and weave in rem ends.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO DECREASE IN DOUBLE CROCHET (DC2TOG)

1 Start by inserting the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row. Begin to work a double crochet stitch in the usual way, working yrh and pull loop through (2 loops on hook).

2 Without finishing the first dc, begin the next dc by inserting the hook in the next stitch on the previous row. Again, work yrh and pull loop through (3 loops on hook).

3 Now complete both dc stitches together by working yrh and pull this loop through all 3 loops on the hook.

4 This is how your completed dc2tog should look. You will have neatly decreased one stitch. On subsequent rows, you can simply work a stitch into the top of the dc2tog stitch as usual.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 89

c E h l e o V h r p o E e n p eyelets â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the perfect combin d n a s e ation Rippl !

Combining a lacy finish with beautifully undulating rows, this is one impressive looking stitch. BASIC PEEPHOLE CHEVRON STITCH PATTERN Chain a multiple of 10 + 3. We used 33 for the sample. Row 1 (RS) Tr in fourth ch from hook (counts as 2tr in same st), tr in each of next 3 ch, *skip 2 ch, tr in each of next 4 ch, ch2, tr in each of next 4 ch; repeat from * to last 6 ch, skip 2 ch, tr in each of next 3 ch, 2tr in last ch, turn.

Row 2 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, *tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 2 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * to last 9 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip 2 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, 2tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 2 sets pattern. Repeat Row 2 the number of times stated in the pattern. Finishing Row (not on sample) Ss in first st, *dc in next st, htr in each of next 2 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in next st, ss in each ch; rep from * rep from *,

omitting last ss on final repeat and working ss into last st. Fasten off. Foundation Row (not on sample above) Rejoin yarn to other side of foundation ch, ch3 (counts as tr), htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in next st, ss in each ch, *dc in next st, htr in each of next 2 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in next st, ss in each ch; rep from * to last 4 sts, dc in next st, htr in each of next 2 sts, tr in last st. Fasten off. Patterns by Becky Garratt.

peephole chevron Your face deserves a bit of handmade pampering. Treat it to a new wash cloth!

Use cool cotton to make super-stylish bathroom bits.

How ever have you managed without one of these in your life?

waVy waSh clotH

baThrooM orgAniseR haNdy hOlder

Just stitch a simple square in the basic peephole chevron pattern and you’ve got a pretty wash cloth. The contrasting stripes really show off the undulating chevron rows. Pick colours you love and get hooking.

Stash your stuff in hanging pockets. Q Cascade Ultra Pima (100% cotton,

100g/210m), 2 skeins of each: Yarn A Natural (3718), Yarn B Lavender (3778) Q A 4mm (US G/6 hook) Q 2 buttons

Q Cascade Ultra Pima

(100% cotton, 100g/210m), 1 skein of each: Yarn A Natural (3718) Yarn B Lavender (3778) For yarn stockists, contact LoveCrochet 0800 802 1189 www.lovecrochet.com Q A 4mm (US G/6 hook) MEASUREMENTS 31x28cm (12¼x11in) NOTES Start with Yarn A and alternate yarns every three rows to achieve the stripy effect. WASH CLOTH Ch63. Follow the Basic Peephole Chevron Stitch Pattern, repeating Row 2 until you have worked a total of 27 rows. With Yarn B, work the Finishing Row and Foundation Row. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block if desired.

MEASUREMENTS 29x45cm (11½x17¾in) MAIN PIECE Using Yarn A, ch53. Row 1 (RS) Htr into third ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [52 sts] Rows 2-59 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each st to end, turn. Row 60 Ch2, 7htr, *ch10 or number needed to fit around button, ss in st at base of ch*, htr in each st to last 8 sts; rep from * to *, htr in each st to end. Fasten off. Sew 2 buttons onto back at about Row 49 to align with loops. These are so you can roll and fasten hanger. POCKETS Using Yarn B, ch63. Follow Basic Stitch Patt, repeating Row 2 until there are 13 rows. Work Finishing Row and Foundation Row. Fasten off. Repeat to form Top Pocket, working a total of 9 rows of patt. Sew pockets to main piece using image as a guide. Sew vertical lines on the pockets to divide into sections.

Just the thing for storing your toothbrushes, make-up brushes or cotton buds. And speedy to make. Q Cascade Ultra Pima (100% cotton,

100g/210m), 1 skein of each: Yarn A Natural (3718) Yarn B Lavender (3778) Q A 4mm (US G/6 hook) Q Strip of acetate to hold container in shape MEASUREMENTS 8cm (3in) tall and 6.5cm (2½in) diameter HOLDER With Yarn A, ch43. Follow Basic Stitch patt, rep Row 2 until you have a total of 7 rows. Fasten off. Using Yarn B, work the Foundation Row, do not fasten off. [40 sts] Bring the two ends of the row together to join into a tube and continue working in a spiral in the round: Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), (6dc, dc2tog) 5 times. [35 sts] Round 2 (5dc, dc2tog) 5 times. [30 sts] Continue decreasing 5 sts evenly on each round until 10 sts rem. Fasten off, thread the tail of yarn through the final 10 sts and pull tight. Sew up the seam at the back of the holder with Yarn A. Weave in all ends. Insert the acetate inside the tube. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 91

Block stitcH

B ri

your crochet with these satisfy o t r e d ingly le or t neat t i l a

row s.

block stitch

This may look complex but block stitch is surprisingly easy to achieve. We’ve used variegated yarn, whose colours changes work really well over the block pattern. Due to the close texture created, however, you can also use multiple colours of yarn and work the tails in as you go, creating a neat finish. Time for a block party! BASIC BLOCK STITCH PATTERN Worked over a multiple of 4 sts. With Yarn A, ch24. Foundation row (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [24 dc] Change to Yarn B. Row 1 Ch2, skip first dc, dc in next dc, *ch3, skip 3 sts, dc in next st; repeat from * to last 2 sts, ch2, ss in top of last st, turn. [6 dc, 5 ch-3 sps] Change to Yarn A. Row 2 Ch4 (counts as tr and ch1), *4tr in next ch-3 sp, ch1; repeat from * to last dc and ch-2 sp, tr in ch-2 sp, turn. [5 blocks of tr] Change to Yarn B. Row 3 Ch2, dc in next ch-1 sp, *ch3, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last tr, ch2, ss in top of last tr. [6 dc, 5 ch-3 sps] Rows 2-3 form the Block Stitch pattern. Repeat Rows 2-3 six more times. Change to Yarn A. Finishing row Ch1, dc in first ch-sp, *dc in next dc, 3dc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * to last dc and ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, 2dc in next ch-2 sp. [24 dc] Fasten off and weave in ends.

leG warMers candY cuShion This StiTch is WorKed With AltErNate Rows of DouBle and TreBle CroChet, so it’s a GreAt one for all CroChEteRs to try.

blOck bLankeT

Patterns by Louise Smith.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 93

Work alternate dc and treble rows to create cool colour effects. Block stitch rocks our socks.

block stitch

We don’t mean to brag, but this is the coolest blanket on the block.

A bright cushion that looks good enough to eat? We’re tempted.

leG warMers

blOck bLankeT

candY cuShion

Go retro, stay thoroughly modern.

Fancier fibres teamed with classic acrylic gives a mix and match, patchwork feel to this project, and it’s no bad thing. The result is a colourful throw that’s just as squashy and delicious as it looks – superb.

A cheery, variegated yarn guarantees rainbow goodness without any colour-changing hassle. One side of this cushion uses beige as the main colour, but the tables are turned so it’s vibrant on the other side.

Q Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran

(55% wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere, 50g/90m), 2 balls of Yarn A Stone (027) Q Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (100% acrylic, 100g/256m), 1 ball of Yarn B Candied (03965) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook MEASUREMENTS 35cm (13¾in) tall, 24cm (9½in) diameter LEGWARMERS (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, ch9. Rows 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. [8 dc] Rows 2-40 (Rib) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in blo of each st to end, turn. Join last row to foundation ch using a ss seam (place seam on WS), do not fasten off. Rotate to work in row ends of Rib. Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in next row end, ch3, skip next 3 row ends; rep from * around, ss to first dc. [10 dc, 10 ch-3 sp] Join Yarn B in any ch-3 sp. Rnd 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), 3tr in same ch-3 sp, ch1, (4tr, ch1) in each ch-3 sp around, ss to top of beg ch-3. Change to Yarn A. Rnd 3 *Ch3, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around, ss to first ch-3 sp. Rep Rnds 2-3 another 10 times. Work Rib as for beg, ss to every alternate st of last rnd as you reach the end of each RS row. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block to size.

Q Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran (55%

Q Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran

wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere, 50g/90m), 8 balls of Yarn A Stone (027) Q Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (100% acrylic, 100g/256m), 2 balls of Yarn B Candied (03965) For yarn stockists, contact Designer Yarns 01535 664222 www.designeryarns.uk.com LoveCrochet 0800 802 1189 www.lovecrochet.com Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook

MEASUREMENTS 100x80cm (39½x31½in) BLANKET Follow the Basic Block Stitch Pattern as written to make 15 squares. Swap the yarn shades and make another 15 squares in the same way. Weave in all ends. TO FINISH Sew the 30 squares together in a 5x6 grid, alternating the colourways of each square. Use the image above for reference. Block to measurements.

MEASUREMENTS To fit a 30cm (12in) square cushion pad FRONT/BACK (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, ch44. Follow Basic Block Stitch Pattern, repeating Rows 2 and 3 another 14 times. End with the finishing row. To make the second side of the cushion cover, swap the colours so that Yarn B is the treble row. Weave in all ends. TO MAKE UP With WS together, using Yarn A, join along the left, top and right sides of the cover using a dc seam. Place the cushion pad inside the cover and finish the seam. Fasten off and weave in ends. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 95

r s e t l l i tc H O r k stitch thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chock-full of textu a r o f t re. Op

BASIC KROLLER PATTERN See each pattern for the foundation chain length you need to make for each project.

fourth ch from the hook, skip 2 ch, *(dc, htr, tr) in the next ch, skip 2 ch; repeat from * across, htr in the last ch, turn.

across, htr in the top of the beginning ch, turn. Work pattern row until the desired length is achieved.

Foundation row (Dc, htr, tr) in the

Pattern row Ch2, (dc, htr, tr) in each tr

Patterns by Anne Egan.

kroller stitch

Keep calm and scrub on. This pretty pair will scour you smooth.

A handmade spa set is the perfect luxe gift for a loved one. And you’ll learn something new.

Flannel or facecloth? Call it what you will, you need a new one.

SerenE scrUbbieS

PerfeCt poucH

feElgooD faCeclotH

Exfoliate gently with this little duo.

Keep make-up brushes and bits neat.

Wash off the day with soft cotton.

Q Patons 100% Cotton DK (100% cotton,

Q Patons 100% Cotton DK (100%

Q Patons 100% Cotton DK (100% cotton,

100g/210m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Cream (2692), Yarn B Raffia (2714) For stockists, contact Coats 01484 681881 www.makeitcoats.com Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook

cotton, 100g/210m), 1 ball of each: Cream (2692), Raffia (2714) Q 2 buttons or beads Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook

100g/210m), 1 ball of each: Cream (2692), Raffia (2714) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook

TENSION 23 sts and 15 rows to meas 10x10cm (4x4in) over st patt using a 3.5mm hook MEASUREMENTS 9cm (3½in) square SCRUBBIES Reverse Yarns A and B for 2nd scrubbie. With Yarn A, ch16. Work the Foundation Row according to the Basic Pattern followed by 7 Pattern Rows, do not fasten off. EDGING Rnd 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), work 14dc around each side, with an extra dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off. Rnd 2 Join Yarn B, ch1, dc in each st around with 3dc in each of first 3 corner sts and (dc, ch5, dc) in last corner st (forms hanging loop), ss to first dc. Rnd 3 Rep Round 2 until you reach last corner and work 10dc in ch-5 sp, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

POUCH Back and Front are made in rows of dc, flap is worked in Basic Kroller Pattern. With Cream, ch39. Row 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [38 sts] Rows 2-14 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st across, turn. Row 15 Ch2 (counts as htr), *(dc, htr, tr) in next dc, skip 2 dc; rep from * to last st, htr in last st, turn. Row 16 Work Pattern Row. Change to Raffia. Rows 17-18 Work Pattern Row. Row 19 Ch1, dc in next 10 sts, ch3, skip 3 sts, dc in next 12 sts, ch3, skip 3 sts, dc in next 10 sts, turn. Row 20 Ch1, dc in each st and ch across, turn. Row 21 As Row 15. Row 22 Work Pattern Row. Fasten off. Join Cream in first st of rem loops of foundation ch, ch1, dc in each st across. Work 11 more rows of dc. Fold at foundation row and ss sides tog. Sew buttons/beads on Front to match buttonholes and weave in ends.

MEASUREMENTS 20cm (7¾in) square FACECLOTH With Cream, ch42 (counts as htr + 40 sts). Row 1 (WS) Htr in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [41 sts] Change to Raffia. Rows 2-3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. Change to Cream. Row 4 Ch2 (counts as htr), 3htr, *(dc, htr, tr) in next dc, skip 2 dc; rep from * 10 more times, 4htr, turn. Rows 5-22 Ch2 (counts as htr), 3htr, *(dc, htr, tr) in next tr, skip 2 sts; rep from * 10 more times, 4htr, turn. Change to Raffia. Rows 23-24 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. Change to Cream. Row 25 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each st across, turn, do not fasten off. With RS facing, ch1 (does not count as st), dc evenly around all sides with 2dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 97

ss a l c r e t MaWse show you thae kteecbheaniqutiufue l

Hairpin crochet

Discover a new way to create amazing lace with our step-by-step guide to hairpin crochet.

to m you’ll need acce o ie . c ochet

airpin crochet, also called hairpin lace, is an amazingly quick way of creating beautiful, lacy strips or braids of yarn that can be joined together in different ways. It involves the use of a hairpin loom, also known as a fork or tool, available in either looped or rectangular forms. This clever technique was hugely popular in Victorian times, for making lace edgings, trims, collars and rosettes, with crafters using rounded hairpins as looms. The process starts with a slip knot or a chain stitch, with the yarn then placed over the left prong of the loom and wrapped around the right-hand prong. The crochet hook catches the wrapped yarn and draws it through the loop and the loom is turned so that the yarn loops around. Then you make a chain stitch and a double crochet stitch. As you work, a delicate ladder appears with a

central crocheted zig-zag structure. Once you have a collection of strips, they can be joined together with double crochet, or any other stitch that takes your fancy. There are endless methods of attachment and each one creates a different look – ideal for experimenting. Originally used decoratively, hairpin crochet braids are also joined to make scarves, blankets and garments. You can adjust the yarn, the tension and the loom itself to create loose, spidery textures or chunky, knotted ones. Why not try using ribbon for an interesting texture? Once you’ve got used to using the loom, hairpin crochet can be worked incredibly quickly and doesn’t need much concentration, so it’s perfect for when you’re relaxing with friends or in front of a film. It’s also a fantastic opportunity to create impressive effects and show off your latest yarn purchases.

Find out More Intrigued by the possibilities of hairpin? Check out these resources. THE BOOK Learn to Do Hairpin Lace by Annie’s Attic (DRG Publishing, £5.64)

What This booklet is a handy beginner’s guide to the technique and includes nine pretty, fun-to-hook hairpin projects. Why As a starting point for getting your head around hairpin crochet, you need look no further than this book. It details the different looms available and runs through the basics that you require for creating loopy edgings.

THE WEBSITE 01

What With patterns, tutorials and yarn, Stitch Diva Studios is a crafty one-stop shop – head over to www.stitchdiva.com Why They have a whole selection of hairpin lace tutorials, both step-bysteps and videos, as well as a stunning collection of hairpin crochet patterns.

THE BLOG

What Marti is one thoroughly creative lady – she crochets, sews, and makes jewellery, too. Check out www.marthawinger.com Why Her blog is regularly updated with insightful posts about her latest makes, including details about her big hairpin lace project – worth a read to pick up tips.

Visit www.stitchdiva.com to find the free pattern

for this wonderfully versatile Convertible Wrap. 02

You could use hairpin crochet strips to make a

poncho, like this one by Bergère de France, which featured in issue 6 of Simply Crochet. 03

Beverly Army Williams’s fabulously colourful

Holcomb Farm scarf. The pattern is available for free on Ravelry at http://bit.ly/SC12holcomb. 98 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

GetTing StaRted With HaiRpin CroChet You What are the Next StePs? Here’s the lowdown on what you need to know. can now start experimenting with your fabric… Now you’ve got the idea of what hairpin crochet is, over the next few pages we’ll show you how to get started on this fascinating technique. You’ll learn about the equipment you need, be introduced to the basic techniques, and then once you’re feeling confident, you can have a go at the pretty hairband pattern on page 101.

HAIRPIN LOOM To work hairpin crochet, you’ll need a hairpin loom, also known as a hairpin fork or hairpin tool.

QUICK RESULTS Once you’re confident, hairpin crochet is fast to work, so it’s perfect showing off a new yarn.

Next we’ll explain how you can join and edge strips to create larger lacy fabrics. Once you have a collection of hairpin strips, you can join and edge them in all sorts of ways and create lots of interesting effects – have fun experimenting! You can then put your new skills to great effect and make our stylish neckerchief on page 106.

EDGING

JOINING We’ll show you three different ways to join hairpin strips together – each one is simple.

There are just as many ways to edge your hairpin strips and create interesting patterns.

What CouLd i Make? Choose your width, your yarn and your hook size… Making hairpin strips is really simple and you can make them in a variety of widths and any length you like. First, you need a hairpin loom with two prongs (see above). Most looms include two prongs running vertically up and down, plus two bars that run horizontally left to right and secure the prongs at a set width. Some looms come with different sizes of bars to set the prongs at different widths, while other looms have one bar with holes set at different widths, which you insert the prongs into. The width of the hairpin strip you make will depend on the width of the two prongs, so check the instructions in your pattern before you start. To make our hairband on page 101 you need to set the prongs at 4cm apart. To see the effect of

different widths, try making hairpin strips with the prongs set at 2cm 01 , 4cm 02 , 6cm 03 or 8cm 04 . You can use any yarn and hook for hairpin crochet, the hook just needs to be appropriate for your yarn, so use the size recommended on the

ball band. For this tutorial, we’re using DK yarn and a 4mm hook. We’ve worked the tutorials for right-handed crocheters, but if you’re left-handed, you simply need to reverse the instructions, swapping any lefts for rights and vice versa. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 99

how do i Work HaiRpin CroChet? Master the technique with these simple steps. Set your loom prongs 4cm apart, in the bottom bar only. In hairpin crochet you usually only need the bottom bar in place, but this will depend on the size of your loom. Keep the top bar for making long strips and securing the loops between crochet sessions. Now make a slipknot leaving a 25cm tail and place on your hook. With the hook in front of the loom, take the working yarn around the right prong and across the back of both prongs and hold it on the left behind the loom. With the hook in the centre of the two prongs, yrh 01 . Draw the yarn through the slipknot on the hook, keeping this slip stitch loop in the centre. Tighten up the slipknot 02 . Keeping the loop on the hook, lift the hook up and over the right prong of the loom, then bring it back down so it sits at the back of the loom 03 . You can let go of the hook, but keep enough tension on the working yarn to keep the hook in the stitch. Keep hold of the working yarn in your left hand and turn the loom over anti-clockwise, lifting the right-hand side of the loom towards you so that the working yarn wraps around what was the left prong (this becomes the right prong) and across the back of the loom 04 . Keep holding the yarn on the left side of the loom. The loop created by your first slip stitch will now be around the left prong of the loom. Insert hook under the front strand of this loop. Then pick up the working yarn thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s running across the back of the loom 05 . Draw the yarn through the slip stitch loop only 06 to complete the first part of a double crochet stitch. Complete the stitch by working yrh 07 and pull yarn through the two loops on your hook 08 . Try to keep the double crochet stitch in the centre between the prongs.

*Move the hook to the back of the loom again 09 , keeping the working yarn tight enough so that the hook stays in the stitch at the centre of the loom. Turn the loom over anti-clockwise again so that the working yarn wraps around the left prong and across the back of the loom. Place the hook under the front strand of the loop that is now on the left side of the loom 10 (always work into the loop on the left side). Complete a double crochet stitch as before by working yrh, draw the yarn through the loop, then yrh and pull the yarn through the two loops on your hook. Repeat the process from *, turning the loom and working a dc stitch in the left-hand loop until the lace strip is the desired length.

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how do i Make Long StrIpS? Here’s how to make a longer strip and how to fasten off. you’re ready to remove the loops. Carefully remove the bottom bar from the loom and gently slide some loops off the prongs 04 . Leave a few loops in place on the loom to aid continuity. Now replace the bottom bar 05 , remove the top bar and continue working. Some hairpin looms make this whole process easier for you by including a small hole in each prong 05 . Simply thread the end of your spare yarn into this hole, then knot it to itself. When you slide the loops off, they will slide straight onto the spare yarn. Once your strip is the length you want, make sure you fasten off securely. To do this, cut the yarn leaving at least a 25cm tail, work yrh and pull the yarn through the last loop 06 . It’s helpful to have a long tail at both ends of the strip for any sewing up you need to do.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 101

Written by Becky Skuse and Emma Clegg

Once you’ve practised the previous steps, you’ll reach a point where the loom is full of hairpin loops. If you want to continue adding to the strip and make a longer strip of hairpin crochet, you’ll need to take some loops off the loom to make room for more loops. Before you remove the loops, you need to secure them with spare yarn. To do this, cut a length of spare yarn and thread onto a tapestry needle. Pass the needle along the inside of the right prong 01 , making sure you catch all the loops of yarn 02 . Take the yarn across the bottom of the strip and then pass the needle along the inside of the left prong , making sure you catch all the loops of yarn 03 . Next, insert the top of the prongs into the top bar of the loom, making sure your prongs are secure and at the correct width. Now

Go Loopy Becky Skuseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sweet hairband design has subtle sparkles and is much simpler than it appears.

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q Wendy Supreme Luxury Cotton Sparkle DK (100% cotton, 100g/201m), 1 ball of Lemon Shine (1919) (each hairband only uses approx 7g of yarn) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A hairpin loom, with the prongs set to 4cm wide For yarn stockists, contact TB Ramsden 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk MEASUREMENTS Finished hairband measures approx 52cm (20½in) in circumference, and stretches to 60cm (23½in) in circumference ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

Your ps e t s t x ne ou know the hai pin ake Now y u e it to m technique, hai band. thi pretty

aking a really simple accessory is often the best way to get your head around a new crochet technique. With this design, you’ll become more familiar with the specific tools and stitches required to work hairpin crochet and you’ll have something pretty to wear at the end of it, too. We love the loopy look of the hairband and the subtle sparkle in the yarn. A smooth cotton DK like this is easy to work with and won’t snag on your hook or loom. Once you’re confident with the technique, why not start experimenting? You could make a hairband of a different width, or see how it works with different weights of yarn.

C HAIRPIN TOP SECTION Make a slipknot and place it on your hook. Follow the instructions in the step by step guide on page 100 to make a length of hairpin crochet to measure 35cm or your desired length. Fasten off but do not cut yarn. If you want to make sure your hairpin loops lie flat, you can block them at this point. To do this, keep the loops on the loom, spritz with cold water and leave to dry. Remove hairpin loops from the loom (you don’t need to secure the loops with spare yarn). You will find that the hairpin length is quite stretchy, which can compromise the hairband’s fit. To combat this, cut a length of yarn approx 40cm long and thread onto a tapestry needle. Weave it into loops on the back of the hairpin length, gathering up the loops and leaving generous tails of yarn at each end. Adjust your hairpin piece to the length that suits you (ours is 22cm), then securely knot each end of the length of yarn to the hairpin piece.

The hairpin section is the loopy part. The plain half is worn at the back of the head.

To do this, insert your hook at the end where you fastened off, where you want your first stitch to be – this will be to one side of where you fastened off. Yrh and pull up a loop of yarn, making sure you don’t distort the work. Ch1, reinsert the hook in the work where you started and work a dc stitch. Insert your hook where you want your second stitch to be and work a dc stitch, turn. [2 sts] Row 2 Ch2 (counts as first st), tr in 2nd dc, turn. [2 sts] Row 3 Ch2, tr in gap between the ch-2 and the tr st on the row below, turn. Repeat Row 3 until plain band measures 31cm or desired length. Fasten off, leaving a tail approx 15cm. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle and use it to sew the end of the plain band to the other end of the hairpin section. Fasten off securely. Weave in all ends.

The length of the hairpin piece is now set and it will no longer stretch. Don’t worry, the other half of the hairband will still have enough stretch to fit well. PLAIN LOWER SECTION To work the plain section of the band, you need to make two stitches at the centre of the hairpin band. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 103

ss a l c r e t MaWse show you thae kteecbheaniqutiufue l to m you’ll need acce o ie . c ochet

More hairpin crochet Now you’ve mastered hairpin crochet basics, it’s time to start experimenting with the technique.

how do i Join HaiRpin StrIpS? Master three joining techniques with these simple steps. The joining and edging of your hairpin strips creates different effects and enables you to create various lacy projects, from garments to accessories. Whenever you’re joining two hairpin strips, place them side by side so you can easily work into a loop on one strip and then a loop on the second strip. The simplest joining method is the slip stitch join, which creates an effect that looks similar to the braided centre of the hairpin strip, which can be useful if you want a more consistent look. The slip stitches in this join are worked in a similar way to when you’re doing surface crochet. To start, place a slipknot on the hook and insert the hook into the bottom loop of the right strip, from front to back. Then insert hook into the bottom loop of the left strip, from front to back. Work yrh and pull through the loops and the slipknot. *Keeping yarn at back of strips, repeat the process by inserting hook through next loop of right strip from front to back 01 , then left strip from front to back 02 . Work yrh and pull through all loops on hook 03 . Repeat from * to end of strips. Fasten off. For a slightly different slip stitch join, work into the loop of the right strip from front to back, then into a loop of the left strip from back to front 04 .

104 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Alternatively, try working the cable join, which creates a chunkier effect. To do this, you don’t need a separate length of yarn. Just insert the hook into the bottom 2 loops of the left strip, then insert hook into the bottom 2 loops of the right strip. Pull the loops from the right strip through the loops from the left strip (2 loops on hook). *Insert the hook into the next 2 loops of the left strip 05 and pull through the 2 loops on the hook from the right strip 06 . Insert the hook into the next 2 loops of the right strip and pull through the 2 loops on the hook from the left strip. Repeat from * to the end to neatly ‘zip’ the strips together. Almost any crochet pattern could be worked between the two strips to achieve a lovely lacy look. For example, try working this lacy join 07 : *1dc in 2 loops of right strip, 3ch, 1dc in 2 loops of left strip, 3ch, repeat from *. You can vary the look of any of these joins by working in more or fewer than 2 loops. The way you work into the loops will also affect the finished look. So if you insert the hook into loops from back to front (bottom to top), the loops will twist. But if you worked into the same 2 loops from front to back (top to bottom), the loops will stay open. We’ll explain more on this in opposite.

how do i Edge HaiRpin StrIpS? Here’s how to work edging stitches into your strips.

You can also vary the number of loops you work into, to create a wavy edging, or even a wavy join between two strips. Try this wavy edging 03 : *dc into 12 loops, ch4, (dc into 3 loops, ch4) 4 times; repeat from * to end. Along the other edge, make sure you off-set the pattern with the 12 loop group opposite the four 3-loop groups. Or you can incorporate hairpin strips into other crochet projects. Try making a circular crochet motif and join a strip of hairpin lace around the outside. Work a hairpin strip so there are 6 loops to each stitch on the outer round of your circle, then use the lacy join method and work into 6 loops rather than 2 loops of the hairpin strip. Add an edging (try dc, ch4) to the outside edge of the hairpin strip, working into 1 or 2 loops of the hairpin strip each time to create a flat circle.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 105

Written by Becky Skuse

If you’re not going to join any of the loopy sides to another piece of crochet, you’ll usually need to add an edging, otherwise the loops can twist in random directions – although if that’s the look you want then don’t add an edging. There are plenty of edging options and the simplest methods just work a slip stitch into each loop or a double crochet stitch into each loop. To work a double crochet edging that twists the loop, insert the hook into two loops from back to front (bottom to top) 01 . To work a double crochet edging that keeps the loop open, insert the hook from front to back (top to bottom) 02 . Once you’ve got a base row of double crochet, you can build on it with fancy edging rows, such as scallops, picots or a lacy pattern.

So jaunty Use super-soft alpaca yarn to make a luxurious little hairpin accessory. Designed by Becky Skuse.

Hairpin neckerchief

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q UK Alpaca Superfine DK (70% superfine alpaca, 30% Bluefaced Leicester, 50g/112m), 1 ball each of Lilac and Damson (one neckerchief only uses 12g of this yarn) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Hairpin loom with prongs set to 6cm For yarn stockists, contact UK Alpaca 01884 243579 www.ukalpaca.com MEASUREMENTS Finished neckerchief measures 6.5x55cm (2½x21½in) ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

esigner Becky Skuse says: “Hairpin crochet creates such a pretty lacy effect, it’s perfect for combining with lacy joins and edgings. Show off the stitch pattern by wearing it around your neck with this stylish neckerchief. It’s made up of several short strips that only take five or ten minutes each. By the time you’re finished, you’ll be able to whip up hairpin strips in super-quick time!” NOTES Each hairpin strip has loops on either side of a ‘spine’ of dc sts. Make sure your strips have an equal number of loops on each side of the spine, as directed in pattern. Make sure you use spare yarn to secure the hairpin loops on each strip before removing them from the loom. Spare yarn can be removed later, as instructed in pattern. The hairpin strips do not have a right or wrong side but they all need to be orientated with the starting end at the bottom and the fasten off end at the top. This is to make sure you’re working into the loops in the correct way to achieve the same effect as our joins.

C HAIRPIN STRIPS Using Yarn A, make two strips with 10 loops on each side of the spine. Make two strips with 8 loops, two strips with 6 loops and two strips with 4 loops. Using Yarn B, make one strip with 10 loops on each side of the spine. Make sure you leave tail ends of yarn measuring at least 25cm, at the start and end of the strip.

Your ps e t s t x e n t’s time to put you newit-h w I to the te t found skill acce o y. thi cute

JOINING THE 10-LOOP STRIPS Place your Yarn A 10-loop strips on either side of your Yarn B strip. Join these together with the cable join, as described in the technical feature. To do this, insert hook into the bottom 2 loops of Yarn A, from top to bottom. *Insert hook into the bottom 2 loops of Yarn B, from top to bottom. Pull the Yarn B loops through the Yarn A loops, keeping the Yarn B loops on the hook. Insert hook into 2 loops of Yarn A, from top to bottom. Pull the Yarn A loops through the Yarn B loops, keeping the Yarn A loops on the hook. Repeat from * to the final 2 loops of Yarn B. To secure the final 2 loops, take the top tail end of Yarn A (from fastening off),

pass it through the 2 loops, then back through the fasten off knot and secure firmly. Repeat on the other side of the Yarn B strip with the other Yarn A strip. JOINING THE 8-LOOP STRIPS Place the two 8-loop strips on either side of the 10-loop joined strips. Join these together using Yarn B and the 3ch dc method, as described in the technical feature. To do this, make a slipknot in Yarn B and place on hook. Insert hook into the bottom 2 loops of the 10-loop strip, from bottom to top. Yrh, pull through all loops on hook and tighten the slipknot. Ch3, dc into the bottom 2 loops of the 8-loop strip, from bottom to top. *Ch3, dc into next 2 loops of 10-loop strip, inserting the hook from bottom to top. Ch3, dc into next 2 loops of 8-loop strip, inserting the hook from bottom to top. Repeat from * ending with a dc in the last 2 loops of the 10-loop strip. Repeat on other side to join the other 10-loop strip to the other 8-loop strip. See photo below as a guide. JOINING THE REMAINING STRIPS Arrange the rest of the strips on either side of the piece, in descending order. See photo below as a guide. Use same ‘3ch dc’ method as above to join strips. EDGING Rejoin Yarn B with a ss in the central spine of the Yarn B strip. Ch1, dc in same spine. Now work an even edging of chains and dc, working chain lengths over the hairpin loops and the ch3 joins, and dc sts into each spine and each join point. We worked ch4 over the hairpin loops, and ch3 over the ch3 joins, but work what looks right for your tension. When you reach the end of the first side, work a dc into the 4 loops, inserting the hook from bottom to top. Ch1, dc into the 4 loops again. Cont the edging along the other side, working in the same way as above. Ss to first dc. Fasten off. Weave in all ends and block if desired.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 107

e Dging l l E h s

seaside with just a hook and som e h t o e yar t n! Head

shell edging

Creating rows of pretty scalloped seashells, this decorative edging stitch is such a fun addition to your crochet repertoire. It’s a clever combo of skipping double and treble crochet stitches that causes the fan-shaped pattern to emerge, making a ribbon of crochet that will look gorgeous when used to jazz up ready-made items. BASIC SHELL EDGING PATTERN The stitch pattern is worked over a multiple of 6 sts plus 5. For the sample, we used 77 sts. Ch77+1 for turning ch. Row 1 (WS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [77 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st, *ch3, skip 3 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts; rep from * working only 1dc at end of last repeat, turn. Row 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first dc, *5tr in next ch-3 sp, skip next dc, dc in next dc (central dc of 3); repeat from * to end, working last dc in final st, turn. Row 5 Ch3, skip dc and next tr, dc in each of next 3 tr, *ch3, skip next (tr, dc, tr), dc in each of next 3 tr (central 3 tr of 5-tr group); rep from * until dc have been worked in final 5-tr group, ch2, dc in last dc, turn. Row 6 Ch3, 2tr in ch-2 sp, skip next dc, dc in next dc (central dc of 3), *5tr in ch-3 sp, skip next dc, dc in next dc; repeat from * until dc has been worked in final 3-dc group, 3tr in ch-3 sp. Fasten off.

prEtty scArf triM laVendeR bag Some More IdeAs for UsiNg Your SheLl EdgInG: add it to the FroNt of a CarDigan, FinIsh off a BlaNket or sew to the hem of a Baby’s DreSs.

coAt haNger Cover

Patterns by Sara Huntington.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 109

Add ladylike touches to your boudoir with our shell edging trio. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s amazing what a trim or two can do.

shell edging

Crochet that smells as good as it looks? Sounds like a winner.

Let the loveliest thing in your wardrobe come and hang out.

prEtty scArf eDging laVendeR bag

coAt haNger Cover

Give your go-to summer scarf a hooky once-over with a co-ordinating two-tone trim. Just the ticket.

Extra-special blouses and frocks (and maybe even a dress for a certain big day) definitely deserve fabulous hangers such as this.

Q Sirdar Cotton 4ply (100% cotton,

100g/355m), 1 ball of each: Grey Dawn (520), Hot Pink (511) For yarn stockists, contact Sirdar 01924 231 682 www.sirdar.co.uk Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Scarf (ours measures approx 180x90cm/70x35in) Q Sharp darning needle MEASUREMENTS Trim is 3cm (1¼in) deep SCARF TRIM With a needle and Grey Dawn, sew a row of chain stitches on the very outside edge of the scarf. With Grey Dawn, starting mid-way along one edge, work Row 1 of the Basic Pattern, working 1dc in each chain stitch and 3dc in each corner chain stitch, turn. Work Row 2 of the pattern with 4dc in each corner stitch, making sure the final number of sts is a multiple of 6 + 5. Fasten off. With Hot Pink, work Rows 3 and 4 of the Basic Pattern, working (5tr, 1dc, 5tr) in the corner ch-3 sps of Row 4. Work Rows 5 and 6 of the pattern. Fasten off and use the tail of yarn to seam the trim at the join.

Gussy up a simple lavender bag with a stunning shell trim. Instantly it adds a vintage vibe and makes a thoughtful and fragrant gift. If you’re handy with a needle and thread, you could sew the bag yourself, too. Q Sirdar Cotton 4ply (100%

cotton, 100g/355m), 1 ball of Vanilla (502) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Lavender bag Q Sharp darning needle MEASUREMENTS Bag measures 15x17cm (6x6¾in) Trim measures 2cm (¾in deep) BAG TRIM With a needle and Vanilla, sew a row of chain stitches around the outside of the lavender bag. Foundation row (RS) Starting at the centre top of the heart, work 1dc in each of the chain stitches on the bag, with 2dc in each stitch on the curves of the heart and 3dc at the bottom point of the heart. Make sure your final number of stitches is a multiple of 6 + 5, turn. Follow Rows 3 and 4 of the Basic Shell Stitch Pattern, turning at the end of each row. Fasten off and use the tail of yarn to seam the trim at the join.

Q Sirdar Cotton 4ply (100% cotton,

100g/355m), 1 ball of each: Vanilla (502), Grey Dawn (520), Hot Pink (511) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Wooden coat hanger Q Daisy embellishment MEASUREMENTS Hanger: 41cm (16in) wide Trim: 2.5cm (1in) deep COVER Using Grey Dawn, ch14, leaving a long tail. Adjust number of chain to fit the thickness of your hanger. Work in rows of dc until the piece is 2cm less than width of hanger. Fasten off, fold in half lengthways and use tails to seam short ends. Put cover on hanger so that open side is at the bottom of the hanger, poking the hanger hook through the work at top. Using Hot Pink, replace Row 2 of the Basic Pattern with a dc seam to join the open edges, using a multiple of 6 + 5 sts. Continue working Rows 3 and 4 of the Basic Pattern with Hot Pink, then work Rows 5 and 6 with Vanilla. Fasten off. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 111

iR c rAc stItch

crochet an r u o y Give

edge with gorgeou s zigza gs.

Whether you use it as an edging for another project, or as a fabric in its own right, ric rac stitch is a fantastically useful one to know.

hook, (tr, ch1, tr) in same st, turn. Row 2 Ch3, (2tr, ch1, tr) in ch-1 sp, turn. Rep Row 2 until piece is desired length. Fasten off and weave in ends.

BASIC RIC RAC STITCH PATTERN Ch4. Row 1 Tr in the fourth ch from the

WORKING WITH BEADS Where instructed, place a bead as follows: Work stitch up until the final

yrh, bring bead(s) up to the work, yrh (placing hook beyond bead), pull yarn through (bead will sit on WS of work). For a detailed walkthrough of this beading technique, visit our blog at www.simplycrochetmag.com Patterns by Becca Parker.

ric rac stitch

In luxurious silk yarn studded with beads, ric rac is the perfect stitch for creating bridal accessories.

Say ‘I do‘ to beads, beads and more beads – they bring sparkle.

You could add netting to your comb for a more traditional bridal look.

weDding garteR

beAded BraceleT

flOral Hair Comb

The ribbon is your ‘something blue’.

A delicate zigzag to adorn the wrist.

Add a crochet touch to a fancy ‘do.

Q BC Garn Silkbloom Fino (55% merino

wool, 45% silk, 50g/200m), 1 ball of IX01 (this is enough for all 3 projects) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Seed beads, 1 pack of Debbie Abrahams size 6 in Ice Blue (this is enough for all 3 projects), visit www.debbieabrahamsbeads.co.uk Q Ribbon, pale blue, 0.5cm wide, 1m long Q Sewing needle

wool, 45% silk, 50g/200m), 1 ball of IX01 For yarn stockists, contact LoveCrochet 0845 544 2196 www.lovecrochet.com Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Seed beads, 1 pack of Debbie Abrahams size 6 in Ice Blue Q 2 jump rings Q 1 bolt ring clasp and fastening loop Q Sewing needle and thread

MEASUREMENTS 2x36cm (¾x14in) GARTER LENGTH (MAKE 2) Thread 68 beads onto yarn (34 for each length). Work Basic Ric Rac St Patt, placing 1 bead in third ch of every ch-3 so that both edges of the ric rac are beaded. Cont until piece meas 35cm or long enough to fit around thigh comfortably. Fasten off and weave in ends. Braid 2 pieces tog lengthways to interlock them and form a single flat length. Weave ribbon along centre of braid to form running sts. Trim ribbon, leaving ends long enough to tie a bow.

MEASUREMENTS 22x33cm (8½x13in) laid flat BRACELET Thread 96 beads onto your yarn using a sewing needle and thread. Work Basic Ric Rac St Patt, placing 1 bead at the top of every tr st and placing 3 beads in third ch of every ch-3. Cont until bracelet meas 15cm or long enough to fit around wrist comfortably. Fasten off and weave in ends. Using pliers, attach 1 jump ring to each end of bracelet. Attach bolt ring clasp and fastening loop to one of the jump rings to create fastening.

Q BC Garn Silkbloom Fino (55% merino

wool, 45% silk, 50g/200m), 1 ball of IX01 Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Seed beads, 1 pack of Debbie

Abrahams size 6 in Ice Blue Q Hair comb, 6.5cm (2½in) long Q Needle and thread or strong glue

MEASUREMENTS 3 flowers will cover a hair comb measuring 6.5cm (2½in) long FLOWER (MAKE 3) Thread 45 beads onto your yarn (15 for each flower) using needle and thread. Work Basic Ric Rac St Patt, placing 1 bead in third ch of every alternate ch-3 so that only one edge of ric rac is beaded. Cont until piece meas approx 27cm. Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn for sewing up. Thread tail onto a needle and weave through points on the non-beaded edge of ric rac. Gather up to create flower shape and secure. Attach flowers to comb using strong glue, or wrap top of comb with thread and sew flowers onto thread base.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 113

ss a l c r e t MaWse show you thae kteecbheaniqutiufue l

Filet crochet Use simple trebles and chains to create intricate designs. It can be like drawing with yarn!

to m you’ll need acce o ie . c ochet

riginally known as square crochet (because it is, fundamentally, made up of squares), filet crochet is a brilliantly decorative technique that combines open mesh and solid blocks to create shapes and images in fabric. The term ‘filet’ comes from the French word for ‘mesh’. Usually worked in one solid colour, the stitches aim to mimic lace and produce a dainty crochet fabric that’s ideal for home furnishings such as doilies, edgings, table runners and curtains. The items produced have a feminine and traditional look. Although it might appear complex, filet crochet is fairly straightforward: it’s worked using only chains and treble crochet stitches. The mesh is formed of squares of horizontal chains and vertical trebles. Two or more treble stitches can be worked into the mesh squares to fill

them in, forming solid blocks. Images, shapes and words are either made up of the solid blocks, or the negative space in the mesh that surrounds them. Shaping of edges is achieved by increasing and decreasing at the start and end of rows. Filet crochet designs are generally worked from charts. Once the basics have been mastered, filet crochet can even be worked from cross stitch charts or any chart formed of squares. It’s best to use smooth, solid yarns for this technique, to ensure that stitches are crisp and clear without being obscured by slubs or fuzzy haloes. This way of working gives crocheters the freedom to create all kinds of words, shapes and pictures in a relatively neat, simple and decorative way. It’s a great way to start creating your own designs and particularly to produce personalised items and gifts.

Find out More Like the sound of filet crochet? Have a look at these... THE BOOK Filet Crochet by Betty Barnden (St Martin’s Griffin, £10.91)

What This stitch collection has over 70 filet crochet designs to hook, with clear photographs, charts and instructions. Why Betty Barnden is our go-to girl for all things technical and this book is no exception. There are explanations of all the key techniques as well as a guide for reading charts – all you’ll need to get cracking with filet.

THE WEBSITE 01

What www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/ html/evie/filetcro.htm is a collection of free antique filet crochet patterns . Why If you’re interested in the history of filet, then this is a wonderful opportunity to explore an archive of patterns from all over the world, dating back to the 1840s.

THE BLOG

What Crochet queen Gwen Blakley Kinsler founded the Crochet Guild of America. She blogs at www.crochet queen-royalramblings.blogspot.co.uk Why Gwen posts regular crochet book reviews and informative pieces about the history of crochet. We’re reading up on it.

This sweet, summery dress with pretty orchid

details worked in filet crochet was designed by Nicki Trench and featured in issue 8 of Simply Crochet. 02

Michelle Moross is the maker behind this super-

cool skull mat. Her chart for this Papel Picado is available on Ravelry. Make a mat or jumbo bunting. 03

Think pink! We love Edangra’s dainty doilies.

Grab a leafy filet mat from www.edangra.etsy.com. 114 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

GetTing StaRted With FilEt CroChet Here’s the lowdown on what you need to know.

What Else CouLd i LeaRn? Take your next filet crochet steps…

You’ve read about what filet crochet is, so now it’s time to start learning the technique and get hooking some patterns. You can then try this table runner on page 118. The exciting thing is that with a combination of basic stitches you’ll also be able to create an unlimited number of patterns, shapes and images.

Filet crochet is made up of a grid or mesh, where filled squares form patterns.

When you’re first learning, practise with a smooth cotton yarn in a DK weight or heavier.

Now you know you the basics of how to form filet crochet fabric, and how easy it is to create all sorts of effects, there’s plenty more creative potential. We’ll show you how to add an extra flair with lacets, bars and picots, as well as how to design your own patterns, then you can then try the coaster patterns on page 122.

A ‘lacet’ is a space that forms a v-shaped lacy effect, and is worked with a chain length ‘bar’.

One of the big appeals of filet crochet is how easy it is to create different images in fabric.

how do i get StaRted? It’s easy to get started working filet crochet… It’s the ease with which filet crochet can render almost any shape or image into knotted fabric that sets it apart from other crochet techniques, making it a perennial favourite – and hooking us into a long history of lace and crochet making. As far back as the 16th century, in Italy, the word filet was associated with a knotted lace net whose spaces were darned to form patterns. Filet crochet, as we know it today, arrived in the UK in the second half of the 19th century. It imitated bobbin lace-making and was a cheaper alternative. For best results with filet patterns, stick to smooth yarns such as cotton. Beyond that, you can use fine threads and small hooks to create elaborate and detailed patterns that look like

lace, or choose chunky yarns and big hooks to show off a pattern on a larger piece of fabric. The samples above show how the same simple filet pattern will look if you use different weights of yarn. Each piece is approximately the same size

and each one uses a simple diagonal pattern – swatch 01 uses super chunky yarn, 02 uses chunky yarn, 03 uses DK yarn and 04 uses 4ply yarn. You can see how the diagonal line becomes less stepped as the yarn gets finer. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 115

how do i Work BloCks and SpaCeS? Master filet crochet with these eight simple steps. A simple filet crochet fabric is made up of treble stitches separated by chain spaces. To make a basic filet net of 10 squares across by 10 rows, ch20 for the foundation chain, then work ch3 (counts as first treble stitch) and ch1 for the first chain space. Work a treble into the 6th chain from the hook 01 – this creates the first filet space. To form the next space, work *ch1, skip 1 ch, treble in the next chain. Repeat from * to the end of the foundation chain. Turn. To work the next row, ch4 (counts as 1 tr, 1 ch), skip 1 ch, tr into the next tr 02 , *ch1, skip 1 ch, tr into the next tr. Repeat from * to the end of the row, working the last treble into the 3rd chain of the 3-ch t-ch on the previous row 03 . Work more rows in the same way until you’re happy with the technique. We worked 10 rows to form a square fabric (see Empty Mesh, p115). All squares are open in this fabric, but you’ll see how each open square can be filled in by replacing the ‘ch1’ with a treble stitch. It’s by filling in specific squares that you can create patterns. Each open square is called a space and is made up of 2 trebles separated by one chain, while a filled-in square is called a block and is made up of 3 trebles together. Adjacent squares share their outside trebles, which form the mesh structure. Next, practise working blocks as well as spaces in your filet fabric. Ch20 for the foundation chain, then work ch3 (counts as first treble). Work a treble into the 4th chain from the hook. Work a treble into the next chain to complete a block at the start of the first row 04 . Now practise switching between blocks and spaces by working: *ch1, skip 1 ch, tr in next ch (space formed), tr in each of next 2 ch (block formed). Repeat from * to the end of the row. To start the next row with a block, work ch3 (counts as first tr), skip the stitch at the base of the t-ch (as usual with treble fabric) and work a treble into the next two stitches (whether they’re chains or trebles) 05 . If you wanted to start the next row with a space, you’d work: ch4 (counts as 1 ch and 1 tr), skip the stitch at the base of the t-ch, skip the next stitch (whether it’s a treble or a chain) and work a treble into the next treble 06 . Continue across the row, alternating spaces and blocks to practise working them. At the end of the row, you can either work a space or a block. To work a space at the end of a row, work the last treble of the

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penultimate block or space, then ch1, skip the next stitch (whether it’s a treble or a chain), and work the last treble into the 3rd chain of the turning chain on the previous row 07 . To work a block at the end of a row,

work the last treble of the penultimate block or space, then work a treble into the next stitch (whether it’s a treble or a chain), and work the last treble into the 3rd chain of the turning chain on the previous row 08 .

how do i Work From a ChaRt? Use your new skills to follow filet charts. So far, we’ve worked blocks using 3 trebles together and spaces with 2 trebles separated by 1 chain. But some filet patterns use blocks of 4 trebles together and spaces of 2 trebles separated by 2 chains. Both sizes of mesh are common and the pattern you’re using should indicate the size of block and chain space to be worked. The examples below show the same filet pattern worked with either a 1-ch space 01 or a 2-ch space 02 . The narrower version (with a 1-ch space) will produce squarer blocks and spaces, and often reflects the proportions of the filet crochet chart more accurately. The wider mesh (with a 2-ch space) is often found in traditional fine filet work, but is also common in modern patterns. There’s a huge range of filet crochet patterns available and they vary in format, with a combination of pattern text, a filet crochet chart or a crochet symbols chart. A filet crochet chart is the most often used and is usually the easiest to follow, allowing you to easily visualise the final outcome. This chart 03 shows the pattern of the DK yarn diagonal pattern shown on page 115. This method uses a grid with empty squares representing a space and dotted squares representing a block. Remember that the outside trebles of adjacent spaces or blocks are shared. When following a filet crochet chart, the blocks will usually be 3 trebles or 4 trebles, while the spaces will usually be (tr, ch, tr) or (tr, ch2, tr) – this should be indicated somewhere in the pattern.

A pattern should also tell you the length of foundation chain to work. If it doesn’t, you can calculate the length as follows: count the number of squares across the chart; multiply by two if you’re using the 1-ch space filet, or multiply by three for the wider 2-ch space filet. In our example 03 , there are 8 squares in the chart, multiplied by 2 for the 1-ch space filet, equals 16; or multiplied by 3 for the 2-ch space filet, equals 24. Then add 3 chains for the first treble. A filet chart always represents the right side of the work and there should be a key to explain the different symbols. The chart can be read from the left or the right, depending on whether you’re right-handed or left-handed – it doesn’t matter because this is a visual representation of the finished piece. A standard crochet symbol chart will look very different to a filet chart – this time, the spaces and blocks are represented by the crochet symbols for chains and trebles. The two charts below show the same diagonal pattern as the filet chart, using either a 1-ch space 04 or a 2-ch space 05 . You would read it in the same way as any other crochet symbol chart. This type of chart also gives a good visual idea of the completed project and can be very helpful for beginners, but it includes a level of detail that’s not really necessary with filet crochet. A filet crochet chart is much simpler and just as easy to follow, once you’re familiar with the technique, plus they can be used by both right-handed and left-handed crocheters.

Space 01

Block

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 117

Written by Anne Egan, Becky Skuse and Becca Parker

Brighten up your home with a chunky, fun-to-hook table runner designed by Becky Skuse.

table runner

IMPROVE CHUNKY YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

6.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q DMC Natura Just Cotton XL

(100% cotton, 100g/75m), 3 balls of 43 (Fuchsia) Q A 6.5mm (US K/10.5) hook For yarn stockists, contact DMC 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk MEASUREMENTS 29x84cm (11½x33in) ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

imple but addictive, filet crochet is a classic must-try technique – we’ve given it a modern facelift with a chunky yarn in a trendy shade. Designer Becky Skuse says: “This table runner is perfect for our roast dinners on a Sunday. I made several drawings before deciding on these geometric diamond shapes and criss-cross effect, which provides pretty lacy areas as well as solid areas for piping hot dishes!”

C TABLE RUNNER Ch31. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [29 sts] Now follow the Chart below, starting with Row 2. Read the symbols from left to right for even-numbered rows, and from right to left for odd-numbered rows. The pattern is symmetrical so lefthanded crocheters can follow the chart rows in the other direction. Begin each row with ch3. Then work each empty square as: ch1, skip next ch or tr, tr into next tr. Work each dotted square as: tr into next ch or tr, tr into next tr. At the end of each row, check that your stitch count is still 29 sts (these may be trebles or chains). Row 2 is written out in full below to help you. Row 2 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip next tr, tr into next tr, ch1, skip next tr, tr into next tr, 20tr, ch1, skip next tr, tr into next tr, ch1, skip next tr, tr into top of beg ch-3 on row below, turn. Rows 3-15 Continue to follow the Chart. Rows 16-29 Work as given for Rows 2-15. Rows 30-43 Work as given for Rows 2-15.

Follow the stitch chart carefully so your filet stitches form the neat, geometric design.

You can repeat the chart pattern of Rows 2-15 as many times as you like to make a table runner long enough for your table. Final row Ch3, tr in each tr or ch to end. [29 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. Block if desired.

Chart 15

2 10

Key Space Block

Your ps e t s t x e n Practi e c eating ﬁlet i e n with th c ochet patt cce o y. styli h a

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 119

ss a l c r e t MaWse show you thae kteecbheaniqutiufue l to m you’ll need acce o ie . c ochet

More filet crochet Go beyond the basics to learn about lacets, bars and picots, and how to design your own patterns.

What are LacEtS? Master lacets in filet crochet with these simple steps. Once you’ve mastered the basics of filet crochet, you can learn some extra stitches and have some creative fun! Some of the best filet stitches you could incorporate into your filet crochet work are lacets and bars. These two stitches are often used in combination with each other and create a more open mesh, which lends an extra lacy dimension to your filet fabric 01 . To practise working lacets and bars, ch23 for the foundation chain, then treble into the fourth chain from the hook (counts as first treble). Then work a space (ch1, skip next ch, tr in next ch), 2 blocks (tr in each of next 4 ch), 4 spaces, 2 blocks and end with a space (21 sts). For the next row, ch3 (counts as first treble) and work a tr into each of the next 2 sts to form a block for the first square. Now work a lacet over the next two squares of the mesh. To do this, work: ch2, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, ch2, skip next stitch, tr in next tr. You will have formed a v-shape in the fabric 01 . Now work four blocks over the spaces below (8tr in total), then work another lacet as before. Finish the row with a block, worked as before. You should have two lacets separated by four blocks 01 . On the next row, start with ch3 (counts as first treble), then work a block (2tr). Now you need to work a bar over the lacet below. To do this, work: ch3, skip next 3 sts, tr into next tr. Then work a block as usual (2tr) and work a bar over the next two blocks, as before. Work another block (2tr) and then another bar over the lacet below. Finish the row with a block as before. You should have three bars, two over the lacets and one on its own 01 . A bar always needs to be worked over a lacet, but you can work a bar by itself over spaces or blocks. On a filet chart, a lacet is usually shown as a V shape, while a bar is usually an upside-down U 02 . Remember that the outside trebles of bars and lacets are shared with the next space or block in the fabric. If you like the look of lacets, you could also try adding a 4-ch picot at the centre of a lacet 03 . To do this, work the same fabric as above, but work the lacet as follows: ch1, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, ch4, ss to first of 4 ch, ch1, skip next stitch, tr in next tr. Alternatively, you could try adding a second lacet over the first lacet, instead of working a bar. To do this, work the same fabric as above, but instead over the first lacet, work a second lacet as follows: ch3, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, ch3, skip ch-2, tr in next tr 04 . If you’d like to incorporate these sorts of intricate lacets into your filet fabric, it’s important to make sure you frame them with blocks or spaces to add rigidity. Or you can always make the fabric firmer with an edging of double crochet around the outside. You can experiment with lacets and bars or have a look online to find many other filet stitches that you can integrate into your filet mesh, such as ‘antique spider’. You can also get creative with filet crochet in other ways. For example, there’s no reason why the fabric can’t be made using taller stitches, such as double trebles and triple trebles, instead of trebles. Try working (ch2, dtr) for an open square and 3dtr for a block, or you could try working (ch3, trtr) for an open square and 4trtr for a block. 120 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

BAR

LACET 01

LACET OVER A LACET

PICOT LACET

So far, we’ve only looked at filet fabrics that are worked straight. However, increasing and decreasing the mesh can open up the technique to other projects, such as garments. Shaping the fabric can be done at the start or end of a row, involving a block or a space, often worked in steps the size of one block or space, or on a slant. Increases often use double treble stitches to form a new area of foundation chain for a space. Search online for more ideas, or read on to start designing your own straight patterns.

how do i CreAte my own DesIgns? Use your new skills to make your own patterns. swatch in a mix of spaces and blocks to calculate the size of grid you need. Once you’ve worked out the number of squares you need to produce a project of the desired size, there are a number of ways to proceed. If you are a confident drawer then mark your grid onto graph paper and draw your required image or pattern freehand, straight onto graph paper. With a marker pen, fill in the squares that will be blocks, leaving empty the squares that will be spaces. The pattern can also be inverted, with the blocks becoming spaces and the surrounding spaces becoming blocks. If drawing is not your forté then download a free image from the internet or find a picture in a book. Mark a grid with a fine marker onto tracing paper or film – alternatively, print a grid from the internet onto printable acetate. Remember, either the image will need to be scaled to fit the grid or vice versa. For example, we made a heart coaster 03 in 4ply yarn and a 10 by 10 grid in this yarn measured approx 8x8cm. We wanted the heart coaster to measure 7x7cm so we used a design grid of 9 by 9. Lay your grid over the image and trace it, using pencil for tracing paper or impermanent marker for the acetate 04 . Then you can fill in squares to represent blocks 05 . The benefit of acetate is that if you make a mistake you’ll be able to remove the marks without spoiling the grid – you can also use the grid again for your next project!

Written by Anne Egan and Becky Skuse

One of the big attractions of filet crochet is how easy it is to create different images in fabric. There’s a huge range of filet crochet patterns available, but it’s also possible to create your own. One way to do this is to convert an existing pattern into filet crochet. For example, you can convert a cross stitch pattern into a filet pattern, which is quite popular and relatively straightforward – you just need to reduce the colours of the cross stitch to dark and light and block out relevant squares accordingly. Another way to create your own designs is to draw a chart and work from this. To do this, you need a grid and an idea for an image. You’ll need to know the intended size of your finished piece and the weight of yarn you’d like to use, so that you can judge the relative sizes of image to grid. For example, these two swatches are made from the same chart, but 01 uses DK yarn and measures 12cm wide while 02 uses chunky yarn and measures 19cm wide. If you’re going to use DK yarn to make a filet mesh then a grid of 10 by 10 squares will create a fabric that measures around 12x12cm, on average. If the finished piece is to be 12x12cm then your image will need to fall within a grid of 10 squares by 10 rows. On the other hand, if the yarn is chunky then a grid of 10 by 10 will create a fabric that measures around 20x20cm. This time, a 12x12cm piece will need a grid of 6 squares by 6 rows. It’s best to work a 10 by 10 test

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 121

Coasting along Becky Skuseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clever coaster designs will bring a little bit more lace into your life.

filet coasters

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q Sirdar Hayfield Bonus DK (100% acrylic, 100g/280m), 1 ball of each: Mint (956) Bright Orange (981) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook For yarn stockists, contact Sirdar 01924 231682 www.sirdar.co.uk MEASUREMENTS Finished coasters measure 10cm (4in) square ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

nce you’ve got your head around the idea of lacets and bars, it’s time to put the theory into practice. Designer Becky Skuse says: “Try out your new filet crochet skills with these simple little coasters. They’re a stylish and quick way to brighten up your world, using yarn from your stash or Hayfield’s Bonus DK. Try the checked coaster first, to get to grips with working lacets and bars in your filet fabric, then progress to the trees coaster, working lacets over lacets to create rows of subtle tree shapes.” It’s a different way to create lace, and coasters are just the beginning. Imagine what else you could crochet… NOTES Make one of each coaster in each yarn colour. Follow the Charts to make each coaster. The pattern is symmetrical so you can follow the rows from either direction, if you’re left handed. Begin each row with ch3. Then work each dotted square as: tr into next st, tr into next st. Work each lacet as: ch2, skip next st, dc in next st, ch2, skip next st, tr in next st. Work each bar as: ch3, skip lacet, tr into next st. To work a lacet over a lacet, work: ch3, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, ch3, skip ch-2, tr in next tr. Rows 1 and 2 are written out in full to help you.

C CHECKED COASTER Ch23. Row 1 (RS) Tr in the fourth ch from the hook and each of the next 3 ch, work a lacet (ch2, skip the next ch, dc in the next ch, ch2, skip the next ch, tr in the next ch), tr in each of the next 4 ch, work a lacet, tr in each of the next 4 ch. [15 tr and 2 lacets] Row 2 Ch3, tr in each of the next 4 tr, work a bar (ch3, skip lacet, tr in the next tr), tr in each of the next 4 tr, work a bar, tr in each of the next 3 tr, tr in the top of the beginning ch-3.

The other way up, the trees coaster could depict waves or zigzags. Make it your own.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Block to set the lace pattern. TREES COASTER Ch23. Row 1 (RS) Tr in the fourth ch from the hook and each ch to end, turn. [21 tr] Row 2 Ch3, tr in each of the next 2 tr, work a lacet (ch2, skip the next tr, dc in the next tr, ch2, skip the next tr, tr in the next tr), work 3 more lacets, tr in the next tr, tr in the top of the beginning ch-3. Continue working from the Chart to the end of Row 10. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block to set the lace pattern. Turn the finished coaster upside down to see the tree effect.

Your ps e t s t x ne a go at lacet and o Have i pretty du th te a e c ba to ﬀee table. o c u o y fo

Continue working from the Chart to the end of Row 10. CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 123

The guide

Crochet essentials Over the next few pages, you’ll find simple step-by-step guides to many useful stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook. HOLDING THE HOOK

HOLDING THE YARN

Try these methods and see which works best.

Even tension results in even stitches.

PENCIL METHOD Hold the hook like a pencil, in your right hand (if you’re right-handed), about 3-5cm from the hooked end. If your hook has a flat area, you’ll find it comfortable to hold it here.

METHOD ONE Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your left hand (if you are right-handed), then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.

METHOD TWO Loop the ball end of the yarn loosely around the little finger of your left hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.

3 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.

4 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.

KNIFE METHOD Hold the hook between your thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm from the hooked end, resting the end of the hook against your palm. This will give you lots of control.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.

1 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your left hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a circular loop.

2 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop from front to back.

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain.

How to count chains

1 Hold the hook in your right hand, and both the yarn end and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anticlockwise.

2 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slipknot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain length.

3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your left hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains stated in your pattern.

Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 125

SLIP STITCH (ss)

WORKING IN ROWS

This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds.

Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.

1 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain you worked. Wrap yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anticlockwise direction.

1 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the yarn is behind the hook.

2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown) and then the loop already on the hook to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.

2 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see opposite). Now work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.

1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.

2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you two loops on your crochet hook.

4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook, ready to do the next stitch.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.

1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).

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2 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).

4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops. You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.

The guide TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.

1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.

2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh) and pull the yarn through the stitch only.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) US term: treble crochet This is a stitch regularly used as an elongated version of the treble (described above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 1 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch. 2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the ch loop only (4 loops on hook). 3 Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).

Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). 4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts. 5 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top two loops of the 2nd stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

TURNING CHAIN (t-ch) For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain. In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of

chains. The table below tells you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.

STITCH

Add to foundation chain before starting row

Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)

For turning chain (counts as first st)

Double crochet

1 ch

1 ch*

Half treble

1 ch

2 ch

Treble

2 ch

3 ch

Double treble

3 ch

4 ch

Triple treble

4 ch

5 ch

3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through just the first 2 loops on the hook.

4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook. Your treble crochet is complete.

TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr) US term: double treble crochet This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook under top loop of next ch. 2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook). 3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2

loops only. Repeat from † 3 times more and your triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts. 4 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble, inserting hook under the top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

How to count stitches Check your work is correct. Being able to count your stitches is very important and helps you to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row. To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see above right). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see right).

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 127

HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR

INCREASING AND DECREASING

Create stripes and other colour effects.

Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.

1 Before you work the final yrh (yarn round hook) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old yarn and pick up the new one with your hook.

INCREASE To increase one stitch is very simple – work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. When you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.

2 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour. Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.

DECREASE For a quick decrease, just skip one stitch. For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch. Finish both together.

SEWING SEAMS You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.

1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet right sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.

2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hook into both edge stitches, yrh and pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches, keeping work fairly loose.

How to check your tension Make and measure a swatch to check your tension. Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose so you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than rows, because you can always work more or fewer rows.

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3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.

4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed. Work 1 double crochet and 1 chain alternately.

The guide FOUNDATION RING

WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING

Create a foundation ring for working in the round.

To make circles, tubes and other shapes.

1 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern instructions. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yrh…

1 Make a foundation ring and work the t-ch (3ch for treble sts). Work a treble st as usual, but insert hook into centre of ring. For treble sts, yrh, insert hook into ring.

2 …and pull yarn through 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given right.

2 Finish the treble as usual (yrh, pull yarn through ring, yrh, pull yarn through first 2 loops, yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops). Work more sts into the ring as needed.

MAGIC LOOP An alternative foundation ring for working in the round. Working yarn Pull

Tail end

1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.

2 Now insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the loop.

3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Work your sts into the Magic Loop, over both the loop and the tail end (so two yarn strands).

JOINING ROUNDS Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.

4 Once you’ve worked the first round of stitches, simply pull the tail end of yarn to draw up the ring. Work a slip stitch to join the last and first sts to finish the first round (as instructed below).

Rounds or spirals Check which technique to use.

1 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.

2 Then place the yarn round the hook. Pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch and through the original stitch on your hook.

3 You’ve slip stitched the round together! Before working another round, be sure to make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless you pattern instructs you otherwise.

Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see left). Other patterns are worked in a spiral so you don’t need to join the rounds at the end, just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row. Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.

CROCHET STITCH COLLECTION 129

The guide Abbreviations across alt approx beg bl BPtr

ch(s) ch-sp(s) chcl(s) 4-tr cl

cont dc dc2tog

dec dtr dtr2tog fl foll/folls FPtr

to end of the row alternate/alternating approximate(ly) beginning insert hook under back loop only Back Post treble: yrh, starting from the back, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as treble st chain/chain stitch(es) chain space(s) refers to ch made previously, eg. ch-3 clusters (yrh, insert hook in sp/st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh & draw through 2 loops) 4 times, inserting hook in same sp/st, yrh & draw through all loops on hook continue double crochet (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook decrease double treble crochet work 2dtr together insert hook under front loop only following/follows Front Post treble: work in opposite way to BPtr

Crochet hook conversions htr htr2tog in next inc LH lp(s) meas p or pc patt(s) pm prev rem rep RH rnd(s) RS sk sp(s) ss st(s) tbl t-ch(s) tog tr tr2tog

ttr WS yoh yrh * [] or ()

half treble work 2htr together sts to be worked into the same stitch increase left hand loop(s) measures picot pattern(s) place marker previous remain(s)/remaining repeat right hand round(s) right side skip space(s) slip stitch stitch(es) through back loop turning chain(s) together treble crochet (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, yrh and draw through all loops on hook triple treble crochet wrong side yarn over hook yarn round hook work instructions immediately foll *, then rep as directed work or repeat all instructions in the brackets as directed

HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, fasten the end off carefully. Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item with rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally. 130 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

METRIC

2mm

–

2.25mm

B/1

2.5mm

–

2.75mm

C/2

3mm

–

3.25mm

D/3

3.5mm

E/4

–

3.75mm

F/5

4mm

G/6

4.5mm

5mm

H/8

5.5mm

I/9

6mm

J/10

6.5mm

K/10½

7mm

–

8mm

L/11

9mm

M/13

000

10mm

N/15

Which hook do I use? Hook size

UK yarn weight

2.5-3.5mm hook

4ply yarn

3.5-4.5mm hook

double knitting yarn

5-6mm hook

aran yarn

7mm and bigger

chunky yarn

UK/US conversions UK

chain

slip stitch

double crochet

single crochet

half treble

htr

half double

hdc

treble

double

double treble

dtr

treble

triple treble

ttr

double treble

dtr

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