OSTERIA G

Restaurant Spotlight: OSTERIA G

Written by David McCreary Photographed by Jonathan Fredin

AA recent afternoon visit to Italian-centric bistro Osteria G was punctuated by frequent phone rings. One patron after another called to make a dinner reservation for that night or the following evening. “I’m convinced we have the best clientele in the state,” says convivial proprietor Joe Reinis, a Long Island, New York, native who runs the casual fine-dining restaurant along with his wife, Ashley Startek. “We’re a regulars-driven restaurant built on word of mouth.” It’s easy to see why so many folks enjoy dining at Osteria G, which is situated in a small strip shopping center straddling the border of Apex and Holly Springs. For starters, the seasonal menu features locally sourced ingredients, and inventive weekly specials draw a crowd.

EXECUTIVE CHEF MANNY LOZANO PREPARES LAYERED, SEASONAL DISHES LIKE PAN-SEARED SALMON WITH POTATO AND HERB PARCEL AND MEATBALL WELLINGTON, PICTURED LEFT.

“We have a minimum of five food specials daily, and they are always rotating,” Reinis says, adding that the eatery sources essentials from Raleigh-based Ford’s Produce and Charlotte-based Inland Seafood, among other purveyors.

Executive Chef Manny Lozano, who received his culinary training in France and has worked at high-end restaurants in New York City, finesses pasta, seafood and beef dishes with creativity and skill.

“He’s truly special, and all of his dishes are layered and wellcomposed,” says Reinis,

Evidence of Lozano’s prowess is witnessed in practically everything that emerges from the kitchen. Consider the popular starter called Chowder Baked Oysters involving mollusks sourced from Prince Edward Island stuffed with a light cream sauce, diced bacon and an oyster cracker crust.

Signature appetizer Meatball Wellington features puff pastry filled with a house mixture of veal, beef and pork and topped with a Madeira mushroom sauce.

When it comes to entrees, order the Black Garlic Shrimp (owner Joe’s favorite dish), which comprises aged garlic that is slow-roasted for 27 days and tossed in a basil pesto sauce served with spaghetti and shrimp.

THE CASUAL FINE DINING ATMOSPHERE AT OSTERIA G ENTICES MANY REGULAR AND DATE-NIGHT CUSTOMERS.

OSTERIA G OWNERS JOE REINIS AND ASHLEY STARTEK

continued from page 55

A deconstructed chicken pot pie shows off more of the chef’s gastronomic wizardry.

“He wraps white meat around dark meat with sous vide chicken and waffles made of puff pastry, and then there’s a fantastic demi-glace,” says Reinis.

Be sure to try the house-made butters – especially the honey and sea salt variety – with Italian bread. On Wednesdays, Osteria G offers a special four-course menu for $32 a person (see sample menu on page 46). “This allows chef to be even more creative and innovative, and it’s something unique that no one else (around here) is really doing,” says Reinis. “Since our menu is seasonal, sometimes even changing twice

each season, we like to serve the freshest items possible.” Don’t miss dessert. The classic, airy tiramisu is always on point. But you’ll fall in love with the chocolate Napoleon featuring mousse-filled French puff pastry crowned with hazelnut pralines. Osteria G offers a full bar stocked with white and red wines from California and Italy. A rotating selection of loPORT TONGING: cally brewed beers are available on draft. A way to cleanly open bottles of With more than 30 varieties of whiskey vintage port and on hand, notable craft cocktails include a wine with redhot iron tongs, Smoked Old Fashioned and an espressoice water and spiked martini. hot wax, avoiding A certified sommelier, Reinis capably any breakage or chipping that might guides guests in pairing wine with the cuioccur with the use sine. Half-priced bottles of vino are offered of a corkscrew on an old cork. every Tuesday. “We are port tonging nicer bottles of wine,” says Reinis. “We also host a chef and sommelier dinner, usually the last Thursday of each month. Chef prepares dishes from a particular geographic

In the restaurant business, it’s known that there’s the ‘front of the house’ and the ‘back of the house.’ We consider it one house because we’re one family, and that’s a beautiful thing. ”

– Joe Reinis, Osteria G owner

OSTERIA G Wednesday Special:

FOUR-COURSE PRIX FIXE SAMPLE MENU

COURSE ONE

Prosciutto, asparagus & arugula salad Shrimp cocktail

COURSE TWO

Charcuterie plate Cheese plate

COURSE THREE

Chianti-braised chicken with bacon and mushrooms over egg noodles Rolled eggplant over spaghetti Diced steak with sauteed mushrooms over cavatelli

COURSE FOUR

Chocolate chip cannoli Tiramisu

BEERS ON TAP

The best selection of German and craft beer in the area!

Check our Facebook page for weekly events @TCBiergarten Dogs are Welcome!

1625 N. Main St. #133 Fuquay-Varina 919.246.6649 | tcbiergarten.com

CHOCOLATE NAPOLEON ABOVE: BUCATINI CARBONARA IS TOPPED WITH A POACHED EGG

region, and I incorporate it with wine. It’s always well received.”

Service at the restaurant is friendly and efficient. Reinis says the staff’s dedication to helping each other and serving others is commendable, and he is committed to ensuring that guests feel like they are coming to his home for dinner.

“In the restaurant business, it’s known that there’s the ‘front of the house’ and the ‘back of the house,’” he explains. “We consider it one house because we’re one family, and that’s a beautiful thing.”

Closed on Sunday and Monday, Osteria G is open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner. Reservations are strongly encouraged and are accepted online and by phone.

OSTERIA G

5160 SUNSET LAKE ROAD, SUITE 101, APEX (984) 229-7480 OSTERIAG.COM

Chicken Pork Chops & Waffl es Fried Wings Mac & Cheese Sweet Tea Collard Greens Cornbread & More

Monifa’s Southern Food

841 Perry Rd, Apex NC 919.372.5072

Wed. thru Sat. 11am to 7pm Sunday 11am to 6pm Closed Mon. & Tue. Ask Us About:

Gift Cards

Event Ordering