December 2018 by Make It Better

’Tis the Season for

Giving SKI THE WEST What’s New in Snow Country

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Compass is a real estate broker licensed by the State of California and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. License Number 01527235. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only and is compiled from sources deemed reliable but has not been verified. Changes in price, condition, sale or withdrawal may be made without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footage are approximate.

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Contents

DECEMB ER 2018

Features 48 Out of the Blue Reducing the stigma around discussing suicide. 54 An Eye for Life A look back at the work of a Marin IJ photographer.

68 Marin Gives Back These 34 groups need your help this holiday season.

ROBERT TONG

64 Facing Giants Finding justice for victims of a toxic refinery release.

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Contents In Marin 35 Currents Hostess wine gifts, teen vaping restrictions and more. 40 Q&A Winning the world mountain biking championship. 42 Reading List What it’s like to be John Lennon’s neighbor. 44 Conversation Making Marin County run smoothly.

Destinations 83 Go Where to ski this snow season. 86 Journey Up close with a gorilla family in Uganda.

Out & About

DECEMB ER 2018

119

93 Calendar A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond. 100 Dine An insider’s guide to restaurants and food in the Bay Area. 112 On the Scene Snapshots from events in Marin and San Francisco.

Vija Celmins at SFMOMA

Marin Home

119 Backstory Leveling out in sunny Larkspur. 122 Garden What exactly can you compost in Marin?

18 Editor’s Note 20 What’s Inside 154 Looking Back

Ellen Weinstein crafted the perfect illustration to highlight the spirit of giving that comes to the forefront during the holiday season.

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LENNY GONZALEZ (TOP LEFT); LIZ DALY (TOP RIGHT); NORMA MEYER (BOTTOM)

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Join us for these holiday trunk shows

‘Tis the

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MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Moritz Glik

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood

November 30th, 4-7pm December 1st, 11-5pm

Editorial

Sethi Couture

EDITOR Mimi Towle

December 8th, 11-5pm

MANAGING EDITOR Daniel Jewett

Todd Reed December 14th, 11-5pm December 15th, 11-5pm

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kasia Pawlowska SENIOR WRITER Jim Wood DIGITAL EDITOR Jessica Gliddon COPY EDITOR Cynthia Rubin CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lynda Balslev, Scott Cole, Melanie Haiken, Laura Hilgers, Kier Holmes, Dawn Margolis Denberg, Norma Meyer, Calin Van Paris, Bekah Wright

Art ART DIRECTOR Rachel Griffiths PRODUCTION MANAGER Alex French ILLUSTRATORS Brian Stauffer, Gordon Studer, Ellen Weinstein CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Liz Daly, Mo DeLong, Lenny Gonzalez

Administration / Web CONTROLLER Maeve Walsh

Mor i t z G l i k appearance N ov e mb e r 30t h and Dece mb e r 1s t

introducing personal

WEB/IT MANAGER Peter Thomas OFFICE MANAGER Hazel Jaramillo

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CHIEF VISIONARY OFFICER Susan B. Noyes, Founder Volume 14, Issue 12. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Marin Magazine Inc. owned by Make It Better Media LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright©2018. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Marin Magazine Inc. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Marin (USPS 024-898) is published monthly by Marin Magazine Inc., One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. Periodicals Postage Paid at Sausalito, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965.

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Advertising ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Debra Hershon, 415.332.4800 ext 120 | dhershon@marinmagazine.com ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Michele Geoffrion Johnson ext 110 | mjohnson@marinmagazine.com SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Leah Bronson, ext 109 | lbronson@marinmagazine.com Lesley Cesare, ext 113 | lcesare@marinmagazine.com ACCOUNT MANAGER Dana Horner, ext 107 | dhorner@marinmagazine.com ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR Alex French

Regional Sales Offices WINE COUNTRY Lesley Cesare | lcesare@marinmagazine.com

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA Leah Bronson | lbronson@marinmagazine.com

NEW YORK Karen Couture, Couture Marketing | 917.821.4429

HAWAII Debbie Anderson, Destination Marketing | 808.739.2200

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MAILING ADDRESS One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965 PHONE 415.332.4800 FAX 415.332.3048 SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES subscriptions@marinmagazine.com 818.286.3160 INTERNSHIP INQUIRIES / STORY IDEAS editorial@marinmagazine.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Please send letters to editorial@marinmagazine.com. Be sure to include your full name, city, state and phone number. Marin Magazine reserves the right to edit letters for clarity, length and style. SUBSCRIPTIONS Rates are $12 for out-of-state subscriptions or free for California subscribers. To subscribe, manage your subscription or change your address visit marinmagazine.com/subscribe. BULK ORDERS For information on bulk orders of Marin Magazine, please call 415.332.4800.

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Editor’s Note

Holiday Hopes

This season it is important to be there for each other.

I still remember the panic in the pit of my stomach at the sight of patrol cars in her driveway.

decorate my house and my office, and I love it when I see those reindeer horns on cars (I’m looking at you, Karol Towns). It is an exciting time of year, especially for a parent, but it is also stressful. It’s true that I overspend, overcommit and definitely over-serve at the table. Celebrating feels like an appropriate way to end a year and start off resh for the next one. However, the season can also be monumentally hard and make some people feel overwhelmed and disconnected. The first time I was touched by suicide was in high school. It was my friend Erin’s dad. She was my neighbor and the “it” girl at school; our proximity allowed me to flow in on her coattails every morning via carpool. It was December, and I still remember the panic in the pit of my stomach at the sight of patrol cars in her driveway as I arrived at the back alley that lead to her house. I went in and the mood was somber. This was before the time when a cellphone call could have alerted me to the terror the family had suffered through the night. Her dad was as they say “a pillar of the community,” a man of God. However, in the darkness of that December night he went to Pirates Cove, where he became another holiday suicide statistic. Reading Melanie Haiken’s article on suicide brought back those memories and the desperation the community felt in the wake of his death. Last summer, when suicide was flashing across the headlines, we thought it might be a good topic to write about. But once we dug a little deeper and realized that Marin County leads the Bay Area in this unfortunate statistic, we all agreed that, despite the potentially depressing tone it might set, it’s an important message to get out to our community during the holidays. While life is great and we do live in the most beautiful county on the planet (don’t bother Googling this, you can just agree), life

is not always easy. It’s not just here and it’s not just now — throughout time philosophers have reflected on the struggles faced by all of humanity: “To live is to suffer, to survive is to find some meaning in the suffering,” wrote Friedrich Nietzsche. The Buddha’s teachings are full of hints that life is a lesson of persistence: “Anxiety, the illness of our time, comes primarily from our inability to dwell in the present moment.” Even Oprah credits her success to her many failures and continues to dig deep and search for paths to happiness and contentment. If Oprah’s still looking, the rest of us should feel no shame in the investigating therapy and self-help game. It might just be part of being human. The good news is that we all feel these ups and downs and we have the power to help each other. Just take a look at all the groups that participated in our annual giving feature. Each of these charities most likely started with someone having a bad day, feeling like there had to be a better way to live and treat our fellow humans or animals. For me, this rang true when I recently attended a Lifehouse event in San Rafael. The group started here in Marin in 1950 as a resource for people with developmental disabilities, and it has been so successful it is revered and duplicated across the country, helping thousands of people live independent lives. The event was magical; Marin County’s superintendent of schools, Mary Jane Burke, applauded many success stories within the organization; and it felt good to be part of this great community called Marin. On behalf of our entire staff here at Marin Magazine, we want to thank you for reading (and writing letters). We also wish you a happy and healthy holiday season. Cheers to 2018 and bring on 2019.

Mimi Towle, Editor

BLINK INC

LOVE THE HOLIDAYS. If I could I’d over

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What’s Inside

E LEA D OFF features

this month with a very important story that’s especially worth heeding this holiday season. Writer Melanie Haiken examines suicide in the county. She finds that Marin has an inordinately high rate of suicides and learns from experts that it’s vital to reach out and talk to anyone you think might be at risk. Doing that could save a life. Marin Independent Journal’s longtime photographer Robert Tong died in October from medical complications at age 58. He was a friend to this publication — always willing to dig through the IJ archives for images related to our historical pieces — and we were shocked to learn of his passing. To honor him, we present a

selection of career-spanning photos that were favorites of his editor Robert Sterling. In the mid-1990s attorney Scott Cole went from recent law school graduate to class-action attorney representing over 1,000 Crockett residents affected by a toxic oil refinery emission. Cole’s first-person account, also chronicled in his 2018 book Fallout, describes how the case broke new legal ground and helped a community come together. We’re also proud to offer our annual story on giving back. This time Kasia Pawlowska put out the call and found 34 groups that could use your help this holiday season. Find out who they are and what your money can do. Up front we’ve got hostess wine gift tips and a look at New Year’s traditions around the world. You’ll also get to know a local mountain bike champ, a Bay Area novelist and county administrator Matthew Hymel, who excels at quietly getting things done. Destinations takes you on a gorilla trek in Uganda and then right back home to three western ski destinations with new attractions you won’t want to miss. It’s a big issue, in tribute to the occasion of closing out the year. We hope you enjoy all the stories and take time to celebrate and recharge for a great 2019.

Daniel Jewett, Managing Editor

On September 20, 2012, work stopped all over the Bay Area — including in our Sausalito office — when a Boeing 747 carrying the Space Shuttle Endeavour to the Samuel Oschin Pavilion at the California Science Center in Los Angeles appeared low in Bay Area skies. Marin IJ photographer Robert Tong captured this amazing shot of that moment. See more of his images in our feature story.

BLINK INC (TOP)

EYE ON THE SKY

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Contributors

Ellen Weinstein Illustrator, Cover How did you originally get into illustrating? I love the immediate communication between a visual image and its audience. Growing up in New York City I was drawn to the posters I would see on the streets and subways and in children’s books I read. From an early age I knew that was what I wanted to do. What did you enjoy the most about this project? With every project I enjoy distilling a subject down to its essence and telling a visual story. This cover is focused on giving to nonprofits and organizations, which is an important subject, and one I am happy to elucidate. Where has your work appeared before? I recently wrote and illustrated Recipes for Good Luck: The Superstitions, Rituals and Practices of Extraordinary People, published by Chronicle Books. I have illustrated a children’s book for MoMA on the artist Yayoi Kusama and I am a frequent contributor to The New York Times, Washington Post, The Atlantic and many other publications.

Bekah Wright Writer, “On with the Snow” (p. 83) What do you love most about winter? Snowball fights. I love nothing more than nailing an unsuspecting passerby and, hopefully, provoking them into throwing one back. Duck! What’s your favorite snow memory? A Brian Head backcountry snowmobile journey. Thankfully, serene landscape memories have erased flashbacks of 1. flipping snowmobile, 2. stepping into waist-high snow during a “bathroom break” and 3. disrobing for said break, resulting in mooning all within eyesight. Where has your work appeared before? Everywhere from the Los Angeles Times and Yahoo Travel to Bon Appetit, TV Guide and Los Angeles Magazine.

Melanie Haiken Writer, “Out of the Blue” (p. 48) What was the most surprising thing you learned while writing this story? It was a surprise to me to discover that Marin’s suicide rate was unusually high for our demographics and I was shocked by how many of those deaths were among those between 40 and 60, which is my own age bracket. Somehow that made it more personal. I was also sad to discover that the stigma around discussing suicide was still so strong. What were some misconceptions you had prior to starting your research? The biggest misconception I had was thinking of suicide as going hand-in-hand with depression; I had no idea that so many people who die by suicide did not have a diagnosis of depression or another mental illness. I also learned more about contagion and the risk that reporting details about one suicide can lead to others. I tried to be sensitive to that in my story. Where has your work appeared before? Parade, Health, Woman’s Day, Via and Afar.

Writer, “Uganda” (p. 86) What surprised you the most on this journey? The awe-inspiring apes, of course. But also, the incredible generosity, dedication and humbleness of the Ugandan people and the gorilla doctors who are working together to save a species and improve human lives. Any words of advice for prospective travelers? For the gorilla outing, hire a porter, because doing so provides needed income to villagers (besides toting my camera, my porter’s firm grasp kept me from face-planting many times). Afterward, listen to Batwa “pygmy” children joyously sing at their impoverished school, and leave a donation. Where has your work appeared before? Most recently, my stories have been in the San Diego Union-Tribune, Orange County Register and Los Angeles Daily News.

MARC YANKUS (TOP LEFT)

Norma Meyer

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POV

Your Letters Politics Not as Usual

As an old white male, I would like to thank editor Mimi Towle (Editor’s Note, “Political Unrest,” November) for clarifying that I am destined to lack empathy and understanding for others and must suffer from terminal entitlement. Also, if someone like me is accused of outlandish uncorroborated things, he should remain quietly and thankfully on third base. What tremendous naked ageism, racism and sexism the left displays with Brett Kavanaugh. You have bought into the monster image of Kavanaugh created by the left from an alleged childhood event. Somebody wanted a show trial to dirty Brett Kavanaugh, and that is what they got. DAN PISENTI, MILL VALLEY I too have a daughter, as well as a son, and I hate to think that if one or both of them was accused of such a terrible crime as Kavanaugh was, that they would not be considered innocent until proven guilty. Kavanaugh was not given such consideration. Everyone — at least from the left — did not do him such a courtesy, and I daresay, if any of them had been accused of such a crime, they would have gotten just as upset as Kavanaugh and they would have every right to be. None of the accusations were corroborated. MARLENE ARILD, FAIRFAX

I am much older than you, but I certainly share some of your thoughts and your background. I grew up in a very Republican family and voted Republican for a long time. My father was at one time the assistant attorney general in our state and he had friends who were Republican politicians. Nixon was my Waterloo. Looking back, I’m surprised it took me so long. Kavanaugh’s women supporters were very depressing to me. I am not sure I have quite moved on. But reading your editorial has cheered me up mightily and I thank you for it. Keep it up. BETH GARBUTT, VIA EMAIL

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Your comments may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965, or email us at letters@marinmagazine. com. Please include the town where you live and a daytime phone number.

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CONNECT WITH US TOP GRAM

Our top Instagram post this month was by Jonathan Yogerst, @jonnyboy_wanderlust. “Whether it’s a wildlife encounter, another breathtaking view, or the change of season, Point Reyes National Seashore has something new for all willing to look.” Want to see your photo in print? Tag us @marinmagazine with your best snap.

Top Five Online Stories 1 “Home Made: Marin’s Frank Lloyd Wright House” (October 2018) The story of a do-it-yourself Frank Lloyd Wright home (and doghouse) in Marin. 2 “The Tiburon Twins Behind Benefit Cosmetics” (May 2011) Jean and Jane Ford turn makeup and cosmetics into a $500 million a year company. 3 “Kitchen Tips” (November 2018) Top Bay Area chefs featured in our profile pages weigh in with favorite shortcuts that make eating at home a five-star experience. 4 “Wine Country’s Time Honored Lodges” (October 2018) Three pre-1906-earthquake lodging options — sweetened with award-winning cuisine — that have stood the test of time. 5. “A Home on the Waterfront in Tiburon” (October 2018) A 1945 vacation home in Tiburon gets a complete update that adds sophistication while keeping things relaxed.

Follow Us on Social Media Weekend 101 is now the Better Letter — subscribe for the latest from Marin Magazine and our weekly top-five events listings. Sign up for the e-newsletter at marinmagazine.com/newsletters and follow us on our social media channels.

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instagram.com/ marinmagazine

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New in Town Madison Reed Color Bar, a new concept in hair coloring, comes to The Village at Corte Madera. All services are performed by certified, licensed colorists at a fraction of the cost and time spent at a typical salon; madison-reed.com.

FA MILY Pediatric Alternatives, a Mill Valley innovator in the field of integrative medicine for children, announces the opening of its Breast Health Screening Clinic, offering thermography to its patients as an alternative

Abbot Kinney Marin

E AT & DRIN K The Agriculture Institute of Marin’s Rollin’ Root, a farmers’ market on wheels, is rollin’ through Marin and making its way to four stops every Thursday. The goal is to reach low-income seniors with fresh fruits and vegetables from

local farmers, offered at reasonable prices; rollinroot.org. Johnny Doughnuts’ new location at Marin Country Mart offers caramel apple fritters, custard bismarks, a “crodough” concoction, and raised doughnuts Johnny Doughnuts

and robotics, has a new Kentfield location offering all its popular classes, workshops and after-school classes; mvcode.com. Mill Valley’s The Makery now offers Art Bar, a drop-in “make and take” crafts area. The bar serves up simple and inexpensive projects that children or adults can complete in less than 30 minutes; makerymillvalley.com. Victory Garden Kids on Miller Avenue in Mill Valley is run by

with a touch of fresh potato for a unique flavor; johnnydoughnuts.com.

SHOP Abbot Kinney Marin, a California lifestyle boutique featuring a full-service hair salon, casual cool clothing and modern home accessories, comes to San Rafael’s Fourth Street; abbotkinneymarin.com. Melanie Victor-Smith converted her family’s 1954 Airstream trailer into The Artstream, a unique mobile gallery bringing contemporary art to multiple locations in the community; artstream.com.

Madison Reed Color Bar

B E AUT Y The Village at Corte Madera welcomes Lovesac, a furniture store offering a variety of sectional couches, beanbag chairs, outdoor furniture and accessories; lovesac.com.

to traditional mammograms. The procedure is painless, uses no radiation and is noninvasive; pediatricalternatives.com. MVCode, a place where kids learn coding, game and web development,

a husband/wife team and offers private and group tutoring, drop-in homework help, college coaching and academic support; victorygardenkids.com.

New in Town is an ongoing bulletin on new businesses throughout the Bay Area. To be considered for future listings, email kier@marinmagazine.com.

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Have them unwrap your

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Holiday Gift Guide

ADVE RTI SI N G PROM OTI ON

MEADOWLARK FINE JEWELRY. Jane Taylor fine jewelry is skillfully crafted with 14K gold. Huggie earrings and pendant available in white, yellow and rose gold with emerald, sapphire, amethyst, topaz, all natural stones. 866.924.2210, 117 Corte Madera Town Center, meadowlarkgalleries.com Create Something Wonderful Get organized for the holidays with a little help from The Container Store®. They make it easy to make your gifts irresistible. From stocking stuffers for everyone on your list to gift wrap, boxes, bows and all the finishing touches, you’ll find everything you need to create the perfect presentation – and plenty of smiles. containerstore.com

International Orange Spa + Shop, located at Marin Country Mart, is an oasis of privacy and relaxation in a quiet 2nd floor corner of the Mart. IO offers massage and skin care with steam rooms, saunas, a cozy lounge and a beautiful deck overlooking the Ferry Terminal and Mt. Tam. Gift Certificates are available for spa services and our retail shop. Ask us about our special holiday spa packages! 415.563.5000 ext 2, Larkspur, internationalorange.com

J’Amy Tarr Outerwear Our Capelet in Blush will make you feel like a modern day Hollywood icon. Shown here with one of our exclusive removable faux fur collars. This one size wrap is the perfect gift for yourself or someone special. Available now in a range of beautiful fabrics to wear year round. Designed in Mill Valley and hand sewn in San Francisco. 415.450.9677, Mill Valley, jamytarr.com

glassybaby hand blown votives We hand blow glass with color and light for people who love to give kindness. glassybaby votives come in hundreds of colors, each one with a unique name and meaning, each one of a kind. 510.725.4832, Berkeley, glassybaby.com

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Holiday Gift Guide

ADV E RT I SI NG PRO M OT I O N

Bryn Craig’s “How to be a Better Wine Drinker”. This is a collection of 32 fictitious reviews of 32 fictitious wines written by the fictitious president of the fictitious International Institute of Wine Tasting. Plus a smattering of misinformation about the wine world. Words and pictures by Bryn Craig who lives in Marin. Available on Amazon.

California Collection Why do we live here? Here are three 14K golden reminders: the delicate petals of the California Poppy, the green peaks of Mt. Tamalpais or the majestic arches of the Golden Gate Bridge. 415.459.5808, San Rafael, stephanhill.com

Make Your Own Neon Sign Need a bright gift idea? The Container Store’s DIY Neon Sign taps into personal creativity for an easy, colorful retrostyle light. 10’-length of coated copper wire is strong but bendable. Create words or images. containerstore.com

Come visit Sausalito’s newest gift store Baysic. Featuring Cat Studio Pillows of your favorite Destinations and States - Glasses and Tea Towels available as well. Come by to see all we have to offer! 415.332.9556, Sausalito

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Holiday spirit abounds in West End Nursery’s 100 year old Victorian Christmas House. Find the perfect ornamanents and unique decorations for your friends, family, and especially yourself. Get inspired! 415.454.4175, San Rafael, westendnursery.com

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Give the ultimate gift of wellness this year at Marin’s premiere Pilates and GYROTONIC® studio. Choose gift certificates for packages of private sessions and small group classes to fit any budget. Serving all levels and all ages. 415.326.5130, Mill Valley, fitwisepilates.com

Holiday Gift Guide

ADVE RTI SI N G PROM OTI ON

Sofia Jewelry offers you a one stop shop for all the jewelry lovers in your life. From stacking rings to colored gemstones to silver jewelry, come in and find the perfect gift to celebrate the season! 415.388.8776, Mill Valley, sofiajewelry.com

To-Go Wine Glasses The Container Store’s portable 15 ounce wine glass is ready for all kinds of outdoor fun. A colorful, no-slip silicone wrap protects the goblet, while the drink-through lid is completely spill-proof. Dishwasher safe. containerstore.com

Enjoy two Cliff House favorites at home this holiday season. Bake up our famous Popovers and open a bottle of our award-winning Bloody Mary mix and you have a perfect weekend brunch! To purchase online and for more information visit cliffhouseclassic.com. 415.386.3330, San Francisco, cliffhouse.com

The Marine Mammal Center Adopt-a-Seal® is a perfect gift for the animal lover in your life. Each symbolic adoption includes a photo and certificate, or add a plush seal! An ecofriendly gift that gives back to this Marin-based nonprofit. 415.289.7339, Marin Headlands, MarineMammalCenter.org/adopt

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Compliments of the Season Lingerie ~ Lounge ~ Resort ~ Swim

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In Marin

CE L E B R AT I N G T H E PEO PL E , PL ACE S A N D C AU S E S O F T H I S U N I Q U E CO U N T Y 1

Oro Puro Vineyards “Late Harvest”

Gamble Family Vineyards “Cairo”

The Prisoner Wine Company “Dérangé”

GUEST WITH THE BEST Bottles that bring a little something extra to the holiday party.

Michael David “7 Deadly Zins”

The Prisoner Wine Company “Blindfold”

Cline Cellars “Cashmere Black”

Hale Mary Pinot Noir

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The Prisoner Wine Company “The Snitch”

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In Marin / CURRENTS

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Instead of grabbing from your usual stash as you head out the door, why not give your host a wine to remember?

ORO PURO VINEYARDS “LATE HARVEST” Marin native Deborah Goldman found the land on the southern end of the Silverado Trail in Napa in 1998, dug a well, planted the finest rootstock and has been offering her world-class sauvignon blanc–semillon dessert wine for 16 years. The blend pairs nicely with Cowgirl Creamery holiday cheeses or desserts like rustic pear tart. Salud. Cheers. We’ll drink to that. oropurovineyards.com

THE PRISONER WINE COMPANY “THE SNITCH” For The Snitch, TPWC combined chardonnay from exceptional vineyards in warm Oak Knoll and coolclimate Carneros with just a touch of roussanne. The result is bright and rich plus an unexpected something special. With fresh tropical fruit, apple and pear on the nose, it has richness balanced by bright acidity. theprisonerwinecompany.com

GAMBLE FAMILY VINEYARDS “CAIRO” From the moment Tom Gamble found an abandoned four-monthold puppy on the side of the road, Cairo was his constant companion. The two shared more than a decade of adventures at the ranch and beyond, and this Cairo Vineyard bottling is a homage to a beloved friend. gamblefamilyvineyards.com

HALE MARY PINOT NOIR Hale yes: who could resist a Russian River Valley pinot noir with a Marin twist? The founders of Hale Mary Wines, Anthony and Mary Bourke, started humbly 15 years ago in their garage in Winship Park; three years later they moved to a custom crush facility in Sonoma County and expanded. Their pinot earned 96 points at the L.A. International Wine Competition last year. halemarywine.com

THE PRISONER WINE COMPANY “BLINDFOLD” This white blend is the fruit of a search for interesting Rhône and aromatic varieties to nicely complement a classic chardonnay base. TPWC partnered with growers who cultivated alternative varietals to create an intriguing wine with bold flavor. Aromas of lychee, citrus, vanilla and peach tart are present, and clean and refreshing flavors of juicy citrus and butterscotch are balanced by a vibrant richness. theprisonerwinecompany.com

CLINE CELLARS “CASHMERE BLACK” Skip the scarf but bring the warmth: this wine from Cline Cellars is so named because Nancy Cline describes the flavors as “liquid cashmere.” It also supports charity — to date, the Clines have donated $495,000 on behalf of breast cancer and Alzheimer’s awareness, local shelters, and other causes. clinecellars.com

MICHAEL DAVID “7 DEADLY ZINS” It’s not just another quirky pun; there’s a reason behind the seven in the name. The grapes come from seven different growers in the Lodi region. Some people refer to the style as “Lodi zinfandel,” and this bottling is deliciously representative. It’s a zin that was made to go with barbecue — big, bold and fruity with lots of spice. michaeldavidwinery.com

THE PRISONER WINE COMPANY “DÉRANGÉ” In the late spring of 2016, all 2015 TPWC lots were evaluated for character. The most concentrated and delicious lots of each variety were chosen for the first vintage of Dérangé. After lot selection, all barrels destined for Dérangé were hand-selected after a tasting of each and every one. This red blend is full of black cherry, clove spice, blackberry cobbler and vanilla toast; the mouthfeel is full on the entry, and the soft tannins and balanced acidity make for a delicious combo. theprisonerwinecompany.com MIMI TOWLE

Beyond the Bubbly

When it comes to New Year’s, other countries have some pretty distinctive traditions. Here are some that make kissing at midnight sound boring. KASIA PAWLOWSKA • BELARUS (1/01, 10 a.m.) During the traditional celebration of Kaliady, still-unmarried women play games to predict who will wed in the new year. In one, a pile of corn is placed before each woman and a rooster is turned loose — whichever pile it approaches first reveals who will be the first to marry. • CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA (1/01, 3 a.m.) In Brazil, Ecuador, Bolivia and Venezuela, it’s considered lucky to wear special underwear on New Year’s Eve, and in cities like São Paulo and La Paz, market vendors start displaying brightly colored underpants a few days before the holiday. The most popular colors are red and yellow — red is supposed to bring love in the coming year, and yellow is supposed to bring money. • DENMARK (1/01, 8 a.m.) Danes ring in the year by hurling old plates and glasses against the doors of friends’ and relatives’ houses. They also stand on chairs and then jump off them together at midnight. Leaping into January is supposed to banish bad spirits and bring good luck. • JAPAN (1/01, 4 p.m.) The faithful go in costume as the next year’s zodiac animal to the local temple, where bells chime a sacred 108 times. • PHILIPPINES (1/01, 3 p.m.) Round shapes (representing coins) are thought to symbolize prosperity for the coming year, and many Filipino families display heaps of round fruit on the dining table for New Year’s Eve. • SCOTLAND (1/01, 7 a.m.) The Scottish celebration of Hogmanay includes “first-footing,” a ritual where the first person to cross the threshold of a home in the new year brings a gift for luck (whisky is the most common). • SPAIN (1/01, 8 a.m.) At midnight, it’s customary in Spain to quickly eat 12 grapes — one at each stroke of the clock — to symbolize the wish for good luck in each month of the coming year. In Madrid, Barcelona and other cities, revelers congregate in the main squares to gobble their grapes together and pass around bottles of cava.

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In Marin / CURRENTS

Novato circa 1904

What Is It? You can now use your smartphone to

identify plants or prove to a friend that you know that blue flower is in fact lupine. So grab your device, because plant-identification apps can help your botanical knowledge grow. KIER HOLMES PlantSnap. Free on Android, $3.99 on iOS. The app’s artificial intelligence algorithm requires that you take crisp, clear photos of just a few leaves or a single flower (no whole trees). The algorithm then scans the photo and helps you name your plant in a snap. Once PlantSnap tells you what plant you have, you can read more about it. Works on every continent and has over 500,000 species in the searchable database. Garden Compass. Free on Android and iOS. If you have a pest, disease or plant you want help recognizing, this is the app. Take a photo and submit it to experts who can name it and provide advice on care.

It was in the early 1820s that names like Lobato and Nabato first appeared on local maps. It’s well established that Ygnacio Martinez, a Spanish army officer, named the location where he captured a Native American outlaw Canada de Novato. Canada is Spanish for glen, but where did novato come from? Many say it derived from the second century’s Saint Novatus and that WHAT’S IN sometime in the late 1820s, a Coastal Miwok was baptized in the saint’s honor. A NAME Another theory points out that novato is a Spanish word for new (as in beginner or inexperienced, according to dictionaries today). Regardless, in 1839, Spanish officer and Los Angeles native Fernando Feliz become owner of the 8,800-acre Rancho de Novato, and the center of Fernando’s rancho aligns with the middle of today’s downtown Novato. JIM WOOD

CIGARETTES 2.0 Thanks to big, orchestrated

pushes that began in the late ’80s to drive down cigarette smoking in California, the state now boasts some of the lowest numbers of smokers in the whole country. But this victory has gone up in smoke with the rise of a new trend. Across the U.S., kids are gravitating toward e-cigarettes, and adolescents who vape are more likely than non-vapers to start smoking traditional cigarettes. In Marin, new data from the state education department’s California Healthy Kids Survey shows that vaping among seventh, ninth and 11th graders (the only middle and high school grades surveyed on this topic) has more than doubled in the past two years, with the largest spike — from 11 percent to 28 percent — among 11th graders. And among those 11th graders, the percentage who have ever vaped or smoked e-cigarettes rose from 39 percent to 47 percent. In response, the Marin County Board of Supervisors last month approved banning the sale of vaping products and flavored tobacco products in unincorporated areas by adding an ordinance to the county code. Similar action has been taken in Sausalito, Fairfax and Novato. marincounty.org KASIA PAWLOWSKA

Leafsnap. Free on iOS. This app uses visual recognition software to correctly recognize plants and will catalog your photos so you can build your own reference library. High-res images are a bonus here. Developed by the University of Maryland, Smithsonian Institution and Columbia University. Plantifier. Free on Android and iOS. This crowdsourced plant recognition app allows you to upload an image of an unknown plant; the users of the MyGarden.org community attempt to identify the plant and answer questions. iPflanzen. Free on Android and iOS. Pinpoint the identities of more than 1,500 park, garden and forest plants using basic traits like flower structure or leaf shape. SmartPlant. Free on Android and iOS. Get help IDing plants and receive custom care through a “digital care calendar” that keeps track of the needs of every plant in your garden and alerts you when it is time to take action.

ANNE T. KENT CALIFORNIA ROOM/MARIN COUNTY FREE LIBRARY (TOP)

Novato

iNaturalist. Free on Android and iOS. Artificial intelligence is used here to immediately ID all kinds of plants and wildlife, and it’s also a social network for naturalists — you can record and share observations of plants, add them to the database and in turn ask the community for help identifying your finds. iNaturalist is a joint initiative of the California Academy of Sciences and the National Geographic Society.

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In Marin / Q&A

9 QUESTIONS FOR

Kate Courtney At 22 years old, Kate Courtney is on the fast — and dusty — track to mountain biking success; she recently won this year’s UCI Elite Mountain Bike World Championships in Switzerland, the first such win for an American since 2001. Hailing from the birthplace of Mountain mountain biking, Kate grew up riding Mount Tam’s Railroad Grade with her Biking Champion dad. Now a Stanford graduate, she trains and races full-time; we caught up with her recently before she hit the trails. BY KIER HOLMES KENTFIELD Describe your earliest bike experience. I learned to ride at a very young age but never viewed it from a competitive lens. Riding my bike around the neighborhood or to get to school was just a fun part of my childhood. Later, I was exposed to cycling more seriously when mountain biking with my dad, although then those rides were just a fun way to spend a Sunday with him and a vehicle for post-ride blueberry pancakes.

When did you realize this was a sport you wanted to pursue? I was a cross-country runner in high school and decided to try mountain biking my freshman year for cross-training. Immediately, I fell in love with the sport and shifted my attention away from running and joined the Branson High School mountain biking team. The moment I began committing myself fully to the sport came my high school junior year when I competed in my first junior [UCI Mountain Bike] World Cup in the Czech Republic. It was a harrowing experience with many crashes and a feeling of being completely overwhelmed by the skill and aggression of European-style racing. I finished 10th in that first race and was hooked. The experience gave me so many things to work on and I had done well enough that I had a glimmer of hope for improvement and success.

control. This mentality helps me look at races with optimism and excitement, thinking about how far I might be able to push myself and what I might be able to accomplish. I also spend a lot of time working with a sports psychologist to define goals and outline processes that help me arrive at the start line in the right mindset to perform.

Explain the analytical side of cycling. I am a big data nerd. I love using a power meter and working with my coach and broader support team to analyze what I can improve on in terms of fitness. For me, the numbers tell a story of progress and keep me motivated to improve each time I head out for a hard training ride.

Favorite Marin biking trails? I love the trails near Tamarancho and Coast View Trail on Mount Tam.

Yoga, Pilates or CrossFit? Yoga. I go to Marin Power Yoga in San Anselmo. Yoga is a great way to counteract my position on the bike, maintain flexibility and help with injury prevention. For me, yoga also serves a huge mental purpose and helps me find time to unplug, reset and do something different during busy weeks of training.

What challenges you about mountain biking? I have always been drawn to individual endurance sports but there is something very special about mountain biking. A mountain bike race requires endurance, technical skill and tactics and has a large mental component, making it extremely engaging.

Advice to girls wanting to follow in your biking shoes? Just do it. Let your love for the sport and desire to succeed outshine any fear of failure. Focus on the process, work hard and just enjoy riding your bike — that way you’ll enjoy the journey no matter where you end up. m

What mindset or mental strength is needed to excel at your sport? In a bike race, anything can happen — which you can see as a huge opportunity or an anxiety-provoking risk. I try to focus on my own personal performance and the things that I can

Go-to Marin hangouts when off your wheels? I’m a big taco fan, so Mi Pueblo, Grilly’s or Mas Masa. I also love stopping by Equator in the mornings for coffee.

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In Marin / READING LIST

Author Talk

We sat down with Mill Valley’s Tom Barbash to discuss his new novel The Dakota Winters. MM: What made you choose 1980 as the time setting for this story? TB: I started with an interest in writing about a family living in the Dakota building in the year that John Lennon was assassinated. They would be his neighbors, friends. And then, the more I lived in that year (through writing), the more I began to see it as one of those turning point years when everything happens. We had the Iran hostage crisis, a hugely consequential election, the Russian incursion in Afghanistan, the end of disco, the rise of punk and new wave and a rise of “stranger” killings in the city I grew up in — there was a feeling that things were off-kilter.

California, something more than a few readers had requested of me.

MM: As a native, would you say your view of New York evolved over time? TB: I think what changed New York the most for me were the events of 9/11. I went from seeing my hometown as tough and gritty, then gentrified and prohibitively rich, to being vulnerable — and, in those early days after the tragedy, as warm and generous as a classic small town. I’ve always found it fascinating, a treasure trove of stories, though I do have an extended chapter in this book that takes place in

MM: Is there an overarching theme or commentary on families that you hope readers will take away from The Dakota Winters? TB: Part of the pleasure of hearing from those who’ve read the book is how each reader seems drawn to a different aspect of the story. I hope along with whatever truths they glean, the book is for them the adventure it was for me to write, that they’ll take pleasure in living in these characters’ shoes and going to the places they go. CALIN VAN PARIS

MM: What did you learn while writing this book? TB: I learned a great deal about so many things, beginning, I suppose, with the nature of celebrity and fame. That there are those who have it and then wish they could escape it, and that the rest of us spend way too much time wishing for fame, when it’s the work, the path, we should be appreciating. I learned a great deal too about fathers and sons, and how the roles can shift over time, and how that can complicate that relationship.

Local Page Turners The Dakota Winters by Tom Barbash (Mill Valley), Ecco, $26.99. Through fiction, Tom Barbash transports readers to the Dakota apartment complex in New York City. Set in the year leading up to celebrity resident John Lennon’s assassination, the story follows the Winters family, expertly blending moments of history with an engaging saga that navigates questions of war, fame and faith. The Dakota Winters is an evocative reflection of a tumultuous moment in American history and the everyday people at the center of it. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera December 3, 7 p.m. Change Your Genes, Change Your Life by Dr. Kenneth Pelletier (Carmel), Origin Press, $16.95. A clinical professor of medicine and psychiatry at UCSF’s School of Medicine, Pelletier is an expert on the study of epigenetics, a fascinating field exploring the idea that the way we live may directly impact our genes. In Change Your Genes, Change Your Life, Pelletier gives a layperson’s overview of this concept and offers tips for changing genetic expression and potentially optimizing health. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera December 8, 1 p.m. Almost Nothing by Eric Karpeles (West Marin), New York Review Books, $19.95. In this biography, Eric Karpeles examines the fascinating life of Józef Czapski, a Polish painter and writer. From his days as a student in St. Petersburg during the Russian Revolution to his time as a painter in 1920s Paris, Czapski’s story continually intersected with major moments of the 20th century. Karpeles also offers insight into Czapski’s time in enemy captivity during World War II, a harrowing ordeal that forever altered the trajectory of his art. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera December 8, 4 p.m. Tales of the Radio Traveler by Russell Johnson (Sonoma), Travelmedia Communications, $14.95. This endearing travelogue from Russell Johnson begins with his rapt listening as a child in the Midwest. Tales of the Radio Traveler is an epic journey, jumping from a Minnesota swamp to the jungles of Nepal. Whether Johnson is documenting a flea circus in Munich or the hunt for extraterrestrials in Northern California, his humor and genuine enthusiasm for each subject anchor this delightful ode to the countless stories that crackle across our airwaves. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera December 12, 7 p.m. Reviews by Book Passage Marketing Manager Zack Ruskin.

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In Marin / CONVERSATION

Matthew Hymel Marin’s county administrator is a man who likes to quietly get things done. BY JIM WOOD PHOTO BY LENNY GONZALEZ

HETHER DISCUSSING his

hobby of painting with acrylics or the complexities of the county’s budget, Marin’s county administrator, Matthew Hymel, speaks without hesitation. The lighthearted Hymel likes to get right to the point. Now 52, Hymel has been administrating, aka effectively running, Marin County for over 13 years. His job is to implement decisions made by the elected five-person county board of supervisors. His tasks include, among other things, preparing and overseeing the county’s $550 million annual budget, supervising administration regarding the county’s 2,000 employees and providing county supervisors with research, information and

recommendations. For that he is paid, including benefits, $357,400 annually. Hymel was born in Western Pennsylvania and moved to California in his late teens, then graduated from UC Santa Cruz in 1988. Following that, he earned a master’s in public policy from Harvard University’s Kennedy School of Government. Before coming to Marin he worked as a budget analyst in Sacramento and for the City of Oakland and served two years as budget director for San Francisco then-Mayor Willie Brown. He and his family live in the San Rafael community of Terra Linda; one daughter and a son are away at college and one son is in high school. His wife, Dara, teaches third grade. By his own admission, the county administrator prefers to keep a low profile locally.

You became Marin’s county administrator at the tender age of 38. What helped prepare you to assume such a responsibility? I worked for two years as a budget analyst for Henry Gardner, then the city manager for Oakland. Then I moved over to the controller’s office in San Francisco when Willie Brown first became mayor. He’d gone through two or three budget directors; then I helped his staff finish a budget and he selected me to be his next budget director. So here I was, 31 years old, a young kid with a $6 billion budget. Those were pretty interesting times; it was a great experience. Willie Brown was very smart and he would constantly test you. So that was my first big break. But my passion has always been nonpartisan policy analysis. I’m fine with the policymakers giving the direction; then I’ll

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Marin is large enough to have complex challenges yet small enough that you can accomplish things. create the programs to go with that policy. Even my job with the controller’s office in San Francisco was nonpartisan. Did attending Harvard’s Kennedy School of Government contribute significantly to your career? Yes, definitely. Every day I use something I learned at the Kennedy School. They have a case study methodology and I was always interested in public sector economics. I think that’s partly because I grew up in the Rust Belt region, where unemployment was usually around 20 percent when I was there. So the idea of how government can help people get back on their feet has always intrigued me. Is Marin your proverbial steppingstone to bigger and better things, or are you content staying here for a while? Marin is a better fit for me than, say, San Francisco, where the politics are like a sport. A person can always go to a bigger county, a bigger job. But I’m strategic by nature; I like to have an understanding of where the team is going. I feel that Marin is a wonderful community to live and work in; I have a great board to work with, and Marin is large enough to have complex challenges yet small enough that you can accomplish things. And I’m always learning. So to me, an offer of a bigger job in a bigger county is not very compelling. I feel very fortunate to be where I am. County and city administrators often get stereotyped as a “projects guy,” a “people person” or a “number cruncher.” What do you

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In Marin / CONVERSATION

consider yourself to be? You know, I think most people would consider me a budget person, as that’s been my core role. But while being in this position for the last 13 years, I’ve learned I need to broaden that. So dealing with people and creating a work environment where people can do their best work is a big part of my job. So I need to stretch myself in that area.

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We hear a lot now about unfunded pension liabilities. From your point of view, where does Marin County stand on this important issue? Pensions are a big issue, especially in Marin. Ours is a slow-growth county; our population has not grown substantially in the last 30 or 40 years; we now have more retirees than we have active employees. So it is especially important that we deal with our pension obligations aggressively. And over the last six years we’ve reduced our unfunded liabilities by over $200 million; one of the big things we’ve done over the past 10 years is make sure our retiree health program is more solvent. We now have a trust fund where we’ve set aside over $100 million for our future obligations, including $10 million from investment earnings. So we’ve taken a lot of steps to reduce the trajectory of our unfunded liabilities, but it is still a serious issue that we will be dealing with well into the future. What are the county’s unfunded liabilities? The county’s unfunded pension liabilities are about $600 million in total. One of the ways you know a county is well run financially is its bond rating, and Marin is one of a handful of counties in California that has a AAA bond rating. One of the reasons we have that rating is we’ve taken steps to control our unfunded liabilities; people are comfortable that if they loan us money, we’re going to pay them back. In summary, I’d say pension liabilities are a serious challenge we need to work at — and we are working at it. While you’re overseeing a $550 million budget and administering the jobs of more than 2,000 employees, what, if anything, keeps you awake at night? You know, I realize I’m working with a team that’s also grappling with these issues. But there are always a handful of problems in any one week that I’m confronted

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MAKE YOUR HOME STAND OUT with, and sometimes in the middle of the night I’ll come up with a solution to them. So I’m fortunate that I can usually work problems out rather than worry about them. As I said, I’m always working with a team, so I try not to take it all on myself. What are Marin County’s top three most pressing current challenges? I think sea level rise would certainly be in the top three. So would our retiree obligations, because of the structure of Marin as a slow-growth county. And also in the top three would be emergency preparedness as in a wildfire or an earthquake. You only have to look at the North Bay fires to see how important that is. The

So here I was, 31 years old, a young kid with a $6 billion budget. Those were pretty interesting times; it was a great experience. county is fortunate in that our fire districts and emergency response teams work very well together. Probably our biggest challenge is to see that residents are prepared for that first 72 hours of a disaster, so we’re working hard on that. What are Marin’s advantages in dealing with these challenges? We have very high standards in Marin, so what we are trying to do is maintain those standards while addressing the issues that confront us. As the safety net for our community, our role is to help the disadvantaged; we have a responsibility to make sure everyone in our community has the opportunity to live a high-quality life. Basically, the county’s mission is to have healthy, safe and sustainable communities. And there are so many advantages we have in meeting our challenges. Then of course there’s the wonderful climate and natural beauty of our communities, along with a great partnership with the Marin Community Foundation that helps us deal with things. As I said, Marin is big enough to deal with interesting issues, but small enough to see where the results of our work make a difference. m

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Out of the

Blue MANY SUICIDES ARE SUDDEN AND UNPLANNED — AND MARIN’S SUICIDE RATES ARE DISPROPORTIONATELY HIGH. BUT HEALTH OFFICIALS AND RESIDENTS ARE LEARNING TO REDUCE THE STIGMA AND SEE THE SIGNS.

By Melanie Haiken Illustration by Brian Stauffer

I’m sitting in a crowded conference room at Marin County Department of Health and Human Services, watching as these chilling messages flash by on the screen: Each year, 44,965 Americans die by suicide. For every recorded suicide, 25 people attempt and survive. In the U.S., suicide kills more people than homicide, war and natural disaster combined.

Around me are health professionals and advocates, educators, concerned citizens and family members of those who have died by suicide. Their faces reflect shock, sorrow, and concern as they take notes, ask questions and murmur to those around them. “This topic is very frightening to people,” says Ryan Ayers, Northern California area director for the American Foundation for Suicide Prevention. “But it’s important to have these conversations because that’s how we save lives.”Indeed, the title of Ayers’ presentation is “Talk Saves Lives,” and this is the third time this week he has delivered it to a Marin audience as part of a comprehensive program of suicide prevention awareness taking place around the county this fall and winter.

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There’s good reason for Marin’s public health and academic communities to be focused on suicide right now. While by most health measures Marin is among the healthiest counties in the state, when it comes to suicide it’s another story. As of 2016, the last year for which statewide data is available, Marin had the highest suicide rate of any county in the Bay Area, exceeded only by a small number of the state’s most rural and isolated counties, long at the greatest risk. “Marin has been rated the healthiest county in the state for eight years, and also the wealthiest, and yet at the same time, we have higher rates of death by suicide than other counties that measure much lower on these other scales,” says Matt Willis, Marin County’s chief public health officer. In 2017 there were 42 deaths by suicide in Marin, and data for 2018 tallied up to the end of September showed 21 suicides, with several additional deaths still under investigation. In 2016, Marin had 47 suicide deaths, a notable rise from 2015, which saw 30. Those deaths crossed all age groups and walks of life, from teens to those in their 80s, with the great majority in the midlife years. But perhaps the number that rang the loudest alarm came last winter, when three Marin teenagers died by suicide in a one-month period. “In Marin, losing three young people in so short a time was a real Research has shown when wake-up call,” Willis says. “We people strip away stigma already have a lot of support services in place, but we realized we and have courageous conneeded to have a bigger conversaversations about mental tion and find a way to bring all of that together into a cohesive and illness with their community, holistic approach and get everyone their circle of family and working together to bring this to friends, they are much better public attention.” Suicide affects not just those equipped to cope with what who were close to the person who they’re experiencing. died, but the whole community, says former Marin County coroner Ken Holmes, whose 36-year career was documented in John Bateson’s The Education of a Coroner: Lessons in Investigating Death. “The ripples in the pond of suicide go in so many directions, and all those people ask themselves if there is something they could have or should have done. Those who lose loved ones this way take it on their shoulders for years and years.” Nationally, suicide rates have been climbing steadily since 1999, and California saw an increase of nearly 15 percent between 1996 and 2016. Data from 2014 to 2016 tallied by Healthy Marin show that Marin’s rate of death by suicide is 12.2 per 100,000, as compared with a rate of 10.4 across California.

Meanwhile, high-profile suicides such as those of designer Kate Spade and chef Anthony Bourdain this summer and Marin’s own Robin Williams in 2014 have brought unprecedented attention to the issue. “This has been a hidden problem for too long, and the community is acknowledging that we need to do some soul-searching,” Willis says. “Part of the story here is that until now, people didn’t know that we had higher suicide rates than most counties. There is so much stigma that it doesn’t even get reported or talked about and most people don’t even hear when someone dies this way.” IT COULD BE ANYONE The stories behind Marin’s suicide statistics are many and varied. But if there’s one theme that runs through all, it’s that there is no simple explanation of what brought someone to this point. “When you suffer a loss unexpectedly like this it terrifies people, so it’s natural to try to grapple with the why,” says Penelope Draganic, whose husband Zarko died by suicide in 2014 at age 47. “People look for a terrible life event they can point to, something that happened externally that made the person no longer value their life. But the most important piece to understand is that when someone kills themself, their mind isn’t working well.” Certainly Zarko Draganic seemed the epitome of success; a groundbreaking and influential technology entrepreneur, he founded and sold companies, raced sailboats, and lived with his wife and two children in a beautiful Belvedere home. “My husband was loved, he had a beautiful family and wonderful friends, he was an engaged member of the community and brilliant contributor to society,” Penelope Draganic says. Her husband battled depression, struggling to treat it with medications that caused additional complications. But his suicide was sudden, impulsive and unplanned — there were no previous signs or attempts and he never communicated a desire to harm himself to his wife or those treating his depression. “The disease creates a negative thinking loop pattern, and the thoughts aren’t true, but the individual who is suffering believes them,” she says. “And in that belief system the distorted narrative is so gripping that he can feel completely overwhelmed and may act compulsively to escape the excruciating psychological pain.” When you listen to Draganic’s story and those of other survivors, one thing becomes very clear: we search for causes because we want something that separates us from these experiences. But the more stories you hear, the harder it becomes to hold on to the idea that this couldn’t happen to those we love, or to us.

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SHATTERING THE STIGMA Since her husband’s death, Penelope Draganic has worked to reduce the shame, fear and silence surrounding mental illness, becoming a counselor and coach and joining the board of Bring Change to Mind, an organization founded by actress Glenn Close in 2010 after Close’s sister Jessie was diagnosed with bipolar disorder and her nephew with schizoaffective disorder. “What I’ve learned since Zarko’s death is that being direct about this stuff is really, really important,” Draganic says. “Research has shown when people strip away stigma and have courageous conversations about mental illness with their community, their circle of family and friends, they are much better equipped to cope with what they’re experiencing than when they are isolated, afraid and ashamed.” Suicide experts agree, saying that one of the biggest misconceptions about suicide is that discussing it might lead someone to take their own life. “We used to think that talking about it might plant a seed, but we’ve come 180 degrees from that thinking,” Ayers says. “If someone is suicidal, asking them about it is not going to push them closer to the edge, and if someone isn’t suicidal, asking if they’re at risk isn’t going to put the idea in their head.” Many also fail to understand just how sudden — and short-lived — the impulse can be. “In one study, when psychologists and ER personnel interviewed survivors of suicide attempts, they described shockingly short time periods between deciding to die and making an attempt,” says Susan Acker, assistant director of Suicide Prevention

Warning Signs

THE FIRST STEP IN HELPING TO PREVENT FUTURE SUICIDES IS WATCHING FOR ANY SIGNALS THAT SOMEONE IS AT RISK

• Withdrawing or becoming more isolated

• E xpressing feelings of humiliation or shame

• Appearing increasingly anxious

• Talking about having no purpose or about being a burden to others

• Acting agitated, impulsive or reckless • Talking about feeling hopeless or seeing no way out of a problem or situation • Drinking more or increasing the use of drugs, including prescription medications • Talking about feeling trapped or in unbearable pain • Sleeping too little or too much

and Community Counseling for Buckelew Programs, which staffs and runs the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline for the North Bay. “Nearly 25 percent took less than five minutes and most of the rest took less than an hour.” For this reason it’s important to reach out when a loved one hits a rough patch, Acker says. “Rather than waiting for In Marin, losing three young signs, we can stop more suipeople in so short a time was cide deaths by leaning in when a real wake-up call. friends and family lose jobs or relationships or housing or have legal and financial problems or are under work or school stress,” she says. “Learn how to ask. It won’t make it worse.” Conversations about suicide are starting to happen in many walks of life. In September, the California Fire Service asked all firefighting personnel to participate in a behavioral health and suicide awareness stand-down, to reveal and explore the high suicide risk among firefighters. The numbers they shared: last year, more firefighters died from suicide than from being on duty. In the summer of 2018, three California firefighters took their own lives. And national surveys show that one in three firefighters has considered suicide. The message on the flyer: “The first step in breaking the stigma is to start talking.” Progress is being made — five years ago, just one in five people with a mental health condition sought treatment, and today that percentage has doubled to two in five. But that still leaves more than half of those suffering without help. At the same time that experts spread awareness about the preventability of suicide, though, they caution that this

• E xpressing rage or talking about seeking revenge • Displaying extreme mood swings • Talking or posting about wanting to die • Giving away possessions or saying goodbye • Researching means or making plans for suicide

While the last three indicators on this list may seem the most recognizable or obvious, it’s the more subtle signs that are most common, and most often missed. “These are not necessarily bright red flags,” says Ryan Ayers, Northern California area director for the American Foundation for Suicide Prevention. “Sometimes it’s a change in tone, in personality, in how someone talks or sees the world.” Surviving relatives and friends interviewed for this story described loved ones who made no overt reference to suicide, but in retrospect showed increasingly negative thinking, describing themselves in terms like failure or developing tunnel vision about a problem or situation. According to Jei Africa, the county’s director of behavioral health and recovery services, the clearest warning sign might be a behavior: someone who’s usually communicative stops talking or texting; a moderate drinker begins drinking heavily; someone who’s usually active withdraws from a favorite activity. The second step you can take? Speak up. “Most of us have better antennae than we give ourselves credit for,” Ayers says. “But we hesitate, hoping someone else will reach out. And then nobody does.”

Sources: American Foundation for Suicide Prevention and Centers for Disease Control

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doesn’t mean those left behind should blame themselves or feel in any way at fault that they weren’t able to intervene. “While we have to approach this believing that suicides are preventable, suicide also needs to be seen in the wider frame of public health, and how we hold one another in healthy communities,” says county health officer Willis. “We need to be careful not to assume that responsibility falls on families, friends and health care providers of victims. Prevention is shared by all of us.” SEEING THE BIGGER PICTURE Nowhere is that connection more clear than in Marin’s low-income and immigrant communities. “What we’re seeing among our patients is rising rates of stress because of the sociopolitical context and economic factors,” says Elizabeth Horevitz, director of behavioral health at Marin Community Clinics. “Specifically with regard to our immigrant population, when you have multiple families living in one room under terrible conditions and living in fear of being sent back [to their home countries] and killed by a gang, those are Historically, suicidal thinktremendous mental health presing is not something that’s sures,” Horevitz says. “It feels like a perfect storm that puts people checked in the same way that even more at risk. Hopelessness we check blood pressure, but and helplessness are predictors of it absolutely should be. depression and suicide, and when people are faced with the prospect of deportation, we are reinforcing hopelessness and helplessness on a broad scale.” Calls to the suicide lifeline reflect these stressors too, Acker says. “We are hearing from more elders and others on fixed or low incomes being displaced by sudden evictions as rents go up, and the fires in the North Bay continue to cause grief, anxiety, loss and hopelessness. Drugs and alcohol and financial pressures are also big contributing factors.” Marin has a higher proportion of residents over age 65 than any other Bay Area county, and their struggles are reflected in the suicide rate as well. “Suicide in older adults is often a symptom of social isolation, especially after the death of a spouse and when children are grown and gone,” Willis says. PROTECTING YOUTH Suicide is now the second leading cause of death for people ages 15 to 34, second only to accidents, national statistics show. And 16- to 25-year-olds are the predominant age group among new callers to the suicide lifeline, according to Buckelew Programs. Almost every year, at least one Marin County teenager dies by suicide; in addition to the

three teens last winter, there were four more such deaths among young people age 10 to 19 between 2013 and 2017. Behind these numbers are deeply concerning statistics on attempted suicide and suicidal ideation (thoughts or plans) among teens. A 2015 nationwide survey by Kidsdata, a project of the Lucile Packard Foundation for Children’s Health, found that more than one in six high school students said they had attempted suicide in the previous year, and more than one in 12 reported such an attempt. While men and boys of all ages are more likely to die by suicide, data from the state of California collected between 2013 and 2015 show that high school girls are more likely to say they think about ending their lives. Almost 22 percent of ninth-grade girls and almost 20 percent of 11thgrade girls said yes to a question about suicidal ideation. By contrast, just 9 percent of ninth-grade boys and 15 percent of 11th-grade boys said they’d had suicidal thoughts. Data show that suicide rates are rising faster among certain groups of young people, particularly Hispanic teenage girls. In 2012 the Centers for Disease Control issued a report that 13.5 percent of Hispanic girls ages 14–18 had attempted suicide, a considerably higher percentage than girls from any other ethnic group. In recent years, there has been a deeper understanding of the ways in which news of one death by suicide can lead to others, particularly among the young. While the underlying reasons and factors are complex and not fully understood, the facts are clear: when one death by suicide comes vividly to a community’s attention, the chances of another increase. That doesn’t mean we shouldn’t talk about suicide — it’s important that we do. But the way such deaths are handled in communities and how they’re covered in the media can contribute to contagion. This concern is reflected in new crisis response protocols announced this fall as the result of a collaboration between the Marin County Office of Education, Kaiser Permanente, and Marin County Health and Human Services. The protocols set out guidelines for short- and long-term response in the event of the death of a student by suicide or otherwise, providing tools to help schools communicate with parents and students and offering coping methods and resources. “Given how much time kids spend at school, we want to make sure our schools are supporting the whole child, not just the academic side, and that we’re providing educators with the communications strategies and other tools they need,” says Jonathan Lenz, Marin County’s assistant superintendent for special education. California also passed a new state law, Assembly Bill 2246, that requires every school district that serves students grades seven to 12 to have a board-approved suicide prevention policy in place. While AB 2246 doesn’t

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cover grades six and below and private schools, the state department of education urges all schools to adopt suicide prevention policies “as safety nets for all students.” Throughout the fall, Marin’s school districts held video screenings and alertness trainings to educate students, parents and teachers on how to watch for signs of suicide risk and intervene when someone is at risk. And on November 17, National Survivor Day, the district and the county office of education co-hosted an education event in collaboration with the American Federation for Suicide Prevention. A SLOW TIDE OF CHANGE The school-based efforts are just part of a multipronged effort underway this year to bring suicide to the forefront as a major public health issue and give county residents the tools to spot the warning signs of suicide and intervene to prevent it. This fall, the Marin County Board of Supervisors issued an unprecedented call to action, proclaiming September to be National Recovery Month. Announcing that an estimated 50,000 county residents are affected by mental health and substance use issues, the resolution encourages relatives, friends and the entire community to watch for signs that someone is struggling and speak up to offer concern, support and resources. Marin Community Clinics have launched the Zero Suicide Initiative, part of a health care movement to screen every patient for suicidal thinking and behavior. “More than 50 percent of adults who attempt suicide have seen their medical provider in primary care within the last month,” Horevitz says. “Patients are being seen by someone who could make a difference, and yet the data show we’re not catching it in primary care. Historically, this is not something that’s checked in the same way that we check blood pressure, but it absolutely should be.” The county has beefed up mental health response with a new mobile crisis response team and a 24-hour stabilization unit available to respond with immediate mental health help, says Jei Africa, director of behavioral health and recovery services for Marin’s Department of Health and Human Ser vices “There needs to be a f ull spectrum of ser vices to provide a safety net at every stage.” Among the many resources available to older adults are a senior peer counseling program that pairs volunteers with older adults in need of support and the Marin Villages program, which helps older adults connect through local “village” networks. “Suicide can’t just be a school issue, and it can’t just be behavioral and mental health issue; it needs to be a community issue,” says Lenz. “We need to get everybody

around the table, working off the same plan, acting out of the same beliefs, and speaking the same language.” Perhaps the clearest evidence of change was on display this fall at showings of the film Not Alone, which grew out of Marin County resident Jacqueline Monetta’s experience of losing her best friend to suicide when she was a sophomore in high school. “I didn’t know what to feel — I was shocked and sad and mad and I felt constantly guilty, wondering if I could have done something,” Monetta recalls. And then it happened again, and again. “I personally knew six teens who died by suicide in my four years of high school, all from the Bay Area and several from Marin,” Monetta says. “And each time those feelings came back and I started to look around for answers: Why is this happening? What’s going on in this community that teens are feeling like this?” Searching for understanding and insight, Monetta realized she didn’t want to hear theories and explanations from experts and adults — she wanted to hear from teens themselves. So she started interviewing them. The result is a moving documentary co-directed with Marin filmmaker and producer Kiki Goshay in which teens speak with remarkable honesty about their own experiences with depression, suicide, cutting and other mental health issues — and what got them through the dark times. Since the f ilm premiered at the Mill Valley Film Festival in 2017, community groups and schools around the North Bay have hosted screenings, using the film as the jumping-off point to create openness and conversation about teen mental health. “The positive message is that all these teens survived and found their way to a better place by opening up and telling a friend, a parent, a counselor, and became stronger by sharing their stories with each other,” says Goshay, who is also on the board of the Green Light Clinic, a mental health clinic in San Francisco offering free confidential counseling and treatment to teens. Now available on Netflix, Not Alone is finding a wide audience, and it’s been extremely gratifying to see the message spread, says Monetta, who now works for a talent agency in Los Angeles and plans to become a filmmaker. “I get at least 10 messages a day via Facebook, Instagram and text from young people all over the world reaching out to talk about what a big issue this is for them and telling me how the film has helped them reach out to friends and others around them,” she says. “All I wanted was to help others so they wouldn’t have to go through what I went through losing my best friend,” she says. “It’s been wonderful to see the response, but it also shows that there’s still so much work to do.” m

Resources NATIONAL SUICIDE PREVENTION LIFELINE 800.273.8255 suicideprevention lifeline.org CRISIS TEXT LINE Text HOME to 741741 crisistextline.org AMERICAN FOUNDATION FOR SUICIDE PREVENTION afsp.org BUCKELEW COUNSELING PROGRAMS buckelew.org/ programs/north-baysuicide-prevention KNOW THE SIGNS: STATEWIDE SUICIDE PREVENTION CAMPAIGN suicideispreventable.org GREEN LIGHT CLINIC free mental health clinic for teens greenlightclinic.org NATIONAL ALLIANCE ON MENTAL ILLNESS California, namica.org BRING CHANGE TO MIND founded by Glenn Close bringchange2mind.org ZERO SUICIDE INITIATIVE zerosuicide.sprc.org

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A N EY E

FOR LI FE Photographer Robert C. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Bobâ&#x20AC;? Tong started with the Marin Independent Journal as a paperboy and went on to become an award-winning photojournalist there. The Novato resident loved to take pictures of firefighters, sports, music performances and everyday life in the Bay Area. You can see the beautiful results in this photo essay tribute and also read why his editor, Robert Sterling, loves these images. In October Robert Tong died at age 58.

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(OPENER) Bob probably took hundreds

of photos of the Golden Gate Bridge, both beautiful scenic shots and others that had to do with news â&#x20AC;&#x201D; work on the bridge, automobile crashes and more. Here he captured a moment when the fog drifted across the bridge during the evening commute, as seen from Vista Point on December 9, 2004.

(OPPOSITE) Bob had an eye for the every-

day slices of life. This is a fun photo that is also something of a time capsule, taken near the entrance of the Marin County Fair on July 5, 1988. In the booth on the right, Randy Allen tries to get in one more phone call before Pacific Bell workers Anne Reagan and Mark Krueger take down the pay phones that had been temporarily installed on the fairgrounds.

(ABOVE) Community journalism at its finest: Lucy Broom reacts after having her hair cut by Sam Burke in Mill Valley on May 19, 2004. Lucy and five others in her Old Mill School thirdgrade Brownie troop held a cut-a-thon, in which they each had 10 to 12 inches of locks shorn for donation to the nonprofit Wigs for Kids, to benefit children affected by hair loss. (LEFT) Bob was at Candlestick Park for the start of Game 3 of the World Series between the Giants and Aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s when the 6.9 Loma Prieta earthquake struck. Here, baseball fans with a portable TV watch live video of the fallen Bay Bridge on October 17, 1989.

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(TOP) Bob was there when the

Rolling Stones kicked off heir “No Security” tour at the Oakland Arena on January 25, 1999. He caught Mick Jagger singing “Jumpin’ Jack Flash.”

(BOTTOM) Marin of course was

the home of the Grateful Dead, and Bob captured multiple concert images, including this one of Jerry Garcia at the Oakland Coliseum on July 24, 1987.

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(LEFT) Bob loved to shoot baseball, and he made sure not to miss the Giants’ playoffs and World Series runs. Here he captured Barry Bonds’ reaction to J. T. Snow’s game-tying home run in the bottom of the ninth while playing the New York Mets in the National League Division Series on October 5, 2000, at what was then called Pac Bell Park. (BELOW) For a story about the kayakers

who wait patiently for “splash hits” in the waters off T&T Park, Bob got into a kayak himself and hung out during Game 1 of the Giants-Rangers World Series on October 27, 2010.

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(LEFT) Bob’s specialty was fire. He had a certain affinity for photographing both structure fires and wildfires; he was good at it and he gained the respect of Marin firefighters, who gave him special access. This was a conflagration in July 1990 — a spectacular fire that severely damaged a convent near Dominican University. (OPPOSITE TOP) The Vision Fire

in the Point Reyes National Seashore covered 12,354 acres in Marin. Here, Marin County seasonal firefighter Erik George takes a break after working all night to save a home along the road to Limantour Beach on October 4, 1995.

(OPPOSITE BOTTOM) Novato Fire District’s new Type 1 engine had been in service only about six months in the mid-1980s when it caught on fire during a training exercise at Hamilton Field — and Bob was there.

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Amid the fury of a water polo match, Bob’s camera lens caught Sir Francis Drake High’s Greta Stout in action as she brought up the ball against Marin Catholic in the MCAL girls’ water polo championship on October 28, 2017. The photo was among those honored this year in the annual California News Publishers Association contest.

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The true tale of a fight for justice after an oil refinery emission sickens a Bay Area community.

Facing

GIANTS A First-Person Story by Scott Cole

Illustration by Gordon StuderÂ

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A CAREER-DEFINING CASE WAS ABOUT TO FALL INTO MY LAP.

It was September of 1994 and I was a young lawyer at 28 years of age. I had graduated from law school just two years earlier and, up to this point, had only handled workplace discrimination cases. That was all about to change. The case was heavily reported by local news channels, and it put the small Contra Costa town of Crockett on the map, forever transformed my role as a lawyer, and opened my eyes to how far big business will sometimes go in the name of profits. At the beginning of my career I’d represented a man, Ralph, in an employment discrimination suit. We settled it for a nice sum of money, after which he began phoning me over the next year about all sorts of possible lawsuits that I wanted nothing to do with: he wanted to sue the federal government to roll back gun control laws; he had various conspiracy theories worthy of Hollywood films. That September Ralph called again. I knew him better by now. I knew he lived on a hilltop between Vallejo and Richmond in Crockett, about 30 miles from where I ran my practice. I also knew he lived near refineries, lots of them. I grew up not far from where he lived, an area people then referred to as “Cancer Alley” due to all the disease you’d find there. When he announced himself on the call, I was reluctant, but his story soon grabbed my attention. One of the refineries Ralph’s house overlooked was

operated by the Union Oil Company of California (aka Unocal), a major petroleum refiner in those days. Ralph said Unoca l had released a substance at the refinery and it had made his family sick. He and his wife were having trouble breathing, were suffering from nosebleeds and had badly irritated skin. Ralph’s dog was sick too and had been scratching so much that fur was coming off in clumps. Apparently, local kids were also having symptoms, itching, becoming nauseated and feeling sick af ter swimming at the local pool. A neighbor’s herd of goats had fallen ill and died. Everyone in Crockett and the nearby town of Rodeo seemed to be affected. But by what? What prompted Ralph’s call was that a town hall meeting had been called a couple of days earlier. But it wasn’t about the growing illness in Crockett, it was about Unocal’s desire to expand its operations; environmental regulations required such a public hearing. Ralph went on to explain that at this meeting, some managers, scientists and public relations staff from the refinery were in attendance, but their answers to questions about the townspeople’s maladies were given little attention. Ralph told me that it was during this meeting that these families first learned why they might be sick. The leak was no accident. Unocal had permitted a 16-day airborne chemical release despite knowing the risks, and the residue had fallen all over the quaint little towns of Crockett and Rodeo. Ralph explained that it settled into a toxic molasses-like gunk that over those two weeks had blanketed homes, seeped into lawns, even layered a film over the pool at a local high school. During those weeks, neither Unocal nor the county had done anything to stop it. Managers decided to continue operations to meet production schedules rather than shutting down the plant immediately. Six months before the

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leak, the company had delayed a routine overhaul of the 180-foot hydrogen processing tower. The overhaul would have turned up evidence of developing problems if it had been done on time. This was a classic story I knew all too well, and I knew I had to do something. R a lph wa nted to sue Unoca l, he wanted me to be his lawyer for it, and he knew a lot of people who were interested in suing Unocal too. I started making calls. I called everyone who I thought might know about the release and investigated it thoroughly and, after several twists and turns in that investigation, it became obvious to me we had to sue. This would be a class action, and it would be on behalf of the entire community. The idea was daunting since I had no experience with anything this enormous. I was a second-year lawyer with no money, no safety net and no other resources. But none of that mattered. No one was stepping up to fix this and Ralph was begging me to take on this fight. I told him I would. Within days of that first conversation, there I was, filing my first class-action at the courthouse. The next day the case, and I, made front page news. I had no support staff but within months I had well over 1,000 clients. Then the politics started: the entrance of dozens of additional lawyers, litigation with other lawyers claiming I was stealing their clients, and having to deal with aggressive competing lawyers. I was in the middle of it all and it was intense — something I could never have imagined just two years earlier. Over the next four years, I racked up numerous sleepless nights and 18-hour days, but in the end it was worth it. We changed things in Crockett. Unocal left town — forever. Our case taught people they can stand up for themselves and make a huge difference. Some clients lost children. One woman lost her middle-aged husband due to the chemicals he ingested — he fell ill and died from respiratory complications. The stories

It opened my eyes to how far big business will sometimes go in the name of profits.

of hardship are everywhere. Back then, I was ill-equipped to handle hearing them. I had no experience dealing with such trauma. I wanted to comfort people but didn’t know how. When the case was over, we saw 12 criminal indictments. Unocal was forced to sell the refinery because it couldn’t handle the new rules imposed. A communication policy requiring public transparency about health, environmental, safety and operational issues was established. And Unocal, no matter where it moved, was ordered to use a state-ofthe-art chemical monitoring system that flags the chemicals the facility emits. The suit also prompted general safety protocols now used nationwide. The financial settlement itself was less than what we had hoped for, but the case brought many positive aftereffects: roads and parks were improved and some victims even donated their compensation to local schools and charities. Those who made it through the incident and stayed in the area felt closer to their neighbors. People ask me why I finally decided to write about this experience. I tell them that after my now 25 years of litigating class actions, I know the importance of calling out bad actors. Things wouldn’t have changed without that case. m This story is chronicled in Fallout: The Shock i ng Tr ue Stor y of Su f f er i ng , Corporate Greed, and a Young Lawyer’s Fight for Justice (2605 Media LLC, 2018).

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PROMOTION

marin gives back It takes the efforts of many to make Marin and the Bay Area a better place. As the holiday season begins, many in the community turn their attention to those in need and business owners are no exception. Here at Marin Magazine we would like to take a moment to recognize and highlight the philanthropic efforts of our business partners. Here are some nonprofits and business owners that are giving back to the community. 74 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 8 M A R I N

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PROMOTION

marin gives back

Healing the Children: Marin Volunteers Healing the Children Northern California is the regional chapter of a national organization whose mission is to bring high-level specialty care to pediatric patients abroad. The group is led by Evan R. Ransom, MD, a facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon with practices in Marin County and San Francisco, and Jessica Richman, BSN, RN, an operating room nurse at Kaiser San Rafael. Local volunteers are always welcome and have been instrumental in our success. Past mission sites have included Colombia, Thailand, and Ecuador.

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Current efforts are focused on the repair of cleft lip, cleft palate, and congenital ear deformities during an annual mission to Ica, Peru. All procedures are performed pro bono and all staff time and medical supplies are donated. Please visit us online to learn more about volunteering. HTCNorCal.org, SanFranciscoFacialPlasticSurgery.com 450 Sutter St., Suite 1212, San Francisco, CA 655 Redwood Hwy, South Building, Ste 250, Mill Valley, CA

11/5/18 2:37 PM

PROMOTION

marin gives back

Healing with Horses at Miwok Stables Miwok Stables Center operates as an all-volunteer 501c3 nonprofit and Park Partner in the GGNRA near Mill Valley. Since 2005, we have collaborated with Marin General Hospital Wellness Center and our volunteers to provide a pro bono therapeutic riding program geared for women in cancer recovery, Horses As Healers, which assists survivors to heal emotionally while healing physically. We are restoring the magnificent 1873 Portuguese Dairy barn complex, a treasure for the Marin County community and the horsesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; home. We partner with Miwok Livery and their gentle school horses to provide lessons, summer camps, horsemanship clinics, emphasizing equestrian safety and environmental stewardship under the 30-year direction of Livery owner, Linda Rubio. Visit our abundant wildlife, local history, and gentle horses. Pictured:Linda Rubio, Eva and Alice Steele 415.383.8048, give@miwokstablescenter.org, Mill Valley, CA

Philanthropy as Intended

30 Volunteer Philanthropic Advisors - $2.6 million Granted Since Inception to Over 350 Unique Organizations

2018 Grant Recipients: EDUCATION / ENVIRONMENT Claremont Graduate University Maui Nui Marine Resource Council Napa Valley Rebuild & Resconstrust Fund Sonoma County Fire Relief Fund Na Pali Coast Ohana California Trout Save the Bay Hawaii Legacy Reforestation Initiative Na Mele O Maui Inc Muir Woods Park Community Assn. Juma Ventures Pathways for Kids Edgewood Center for Children & Families

ARTS / ANIMALS Teaching Everyone Animals Matter Rocket Dog Rescue Inc American Wild Horse Preservation Campaign SF SPCA Pets Unlimited Wildcare Hooves For Harmony Marine Mammal Center Audubon Society of Richardson Bay Blue Planet Foundation Teaching Everyone Animals Matter

CHILDREN / CULTURE One World Childrens Fund Ambassadors of Hope & Opportunity Tahirih Justice Center CMALA Convention Inc Equal Justice Initiative Friends of Marin City Good Karma Bikes Inside Circle Foundation A California Public Benefit Corp. La Casa De Las Madres National Domestic Violence Hotline Parents Helping Parents Inc

HEALTH / HOMELESSNESS Arthritis Foundation Inc Legacy Center For Community Success Shanti Project Leukemia and Lymphona Society Univeristy of Hawaii Cancer Research Institute UCSF Medical Center Good Karma Bikes Ambassadors of Hope & Opportunity Tenderloin Neighborhood Dev. Corp. CMALA Convention Inc Dress For Success San Francisco Equal Justice Initiative

See website for a complete list of grant recipients. To learn what you can do, visit: eachfoundation.org

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PROMOTION

marin gives back

Change the world by changing your portfolio Investor’s values can now be expressed through their investments. Mirador Capital Partners has launched a new

platform so investors can invest in companies that support their beliefs, such as climate change, low carbon intensity, LGBTQ workplace equality and animal welfare, to name just a few.

Through a highly-customizable, tax-efficient solution, Mirador’s clients can enable their portfolios to impact the things they care about. Take Adrian for example, he’s a heart attack survivor who’s using this platform to launch a heart-healthy portfolio as a way to take the fight to heart disease, a killer that’s responsible for one in four deaths.

Pictured: Dan Murray and Adrian Jones 415.652.9214, miradorcp.com/vbi, Larkspur, CA

FOOD FOR GROWING

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PROMOTION

marin gives back

On November 29th, Michelle Schmitt and her band celebrated her 10th annual benefit concert at 142 Throckmorton Theater by releasing her new record, “St. Mary’s” which benefitted Extrafood.org. Her mission at these shows is to get food and care to those in need. Michelle began this benefit concert because of her desire to use her music as a vehicle to alleviate some of the struggle that people experience. In her family business, BMW of SF, Michelle has been donating food and care to the homeless for the last 25 years.

When she resumed her music career 20 years ago, Michelle decided to do the same by donating 100% of her music proceeds to organizations like Extrafood.org and LittleWishes.org. “It is only because of the collected effort of all who attend my concerts, donate money and purchase my music that help make this substantial impact. Together, in the last 10 years, we have assisted over 3 million people”. To see what Michelle has planned for 2019, go to michelleschmitt.com. Michelleschmitt.com, Sausalito, CA

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PHOTO: DANIELLE RUBI

Detroit Girl Makes Good

11/5/18 11:23 AM

Happy Holidays from Cáritas! (Latin: charity; goodwill).

WE MEASURE R.O.I. WITH WORDS LIKE

“SHELTER,” “CLOTHING,” AND “FOOD.”

‘Tis The Season To Be Giving. PROUDLY SUPPORTING

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PROMOTION

marin gives back

Helping Marin’s Concussion and Stroke Survivors Thrive As Board President, Coldwell Banker REALTOR® Kim Strub supports the mission of Schurig Center for Brain Injury Recovery. “At Schurig Center, we believe it’s not enough to save a life. Everyone in our community deserves to have a life. With a brain injury happening every 15 seconds from an accident, concussion or stroke, there is a growing need for programs that help survivors and their families,” shares Kim. Schurig Center of fers a unique array of services found nowhere else in the Bay Area, helping hundreds of people each year rebuild their lives. Mill Valley resident, Karen Schurig, founded the organization in 1985 to provide ongoing rehabilitation for her daughter Lisé, who had suffered a

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traumatic brain injury in a car accident at age 14. Kim and Lisé were classmates at Tam High. “I volunteer and support Schurig Center because I care. It matters so much to the people who need it and it is a truly innovative organization. Please join me in supporting this important community nonprofit. You can help people not only survive, but thrive.” Pictured: Paige Schurig Singleton, Lisé’s sister, Patricia Gill, Executive Director, Schurig Center for Brain Injury Recovery, Kim Strub, Coldwell Banker REALTOR® and Lisé Schurig schurigcenter.org, Larkspur; kimstrub.com, Mill Valley

11/5/18 11:23 AM

VA N G UA R D M A R I N G I V E S B AC K A PASS I O N FO R O U R CO M M U N I T Y

S AT U R D AY & S U N D AY A P R I L 2 2 ND- 2 3 RD noon to four

Vanguard Properties was excited to dedicate our day of service this year in support of The North Bay Children’s Center in Novato with their Garden of Eatin’ vegetable beds and play area. The gardens are part of the Center’s curriculum of teaching children the importance of health and wellness through good nutrition which is the basis for their optimal development. Our agents believe supporting our community means giving back to our community. We dedicate ourselves to bettering Marin through service and volunteering. We live here. We work here. We thrive here. This is Vanguard.

MARIN OFFICES 352 Miller Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 94941 | 1118 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur, CA 94939 | DRE# 01486075 | vanguardproperties.com

S A N

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M A R I N

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Destinations

T H E L AT E ST LO C A L T R AV E L D E A L S A N D G E TAWAYS PLU S J O U R N E YS A RO U N D T H E G LO B E Squaw Valley

ON WITH THE SNOW

MATT PALMER

When it comes to winter recreation, the West is where you want to be. Here are three spots guaranteed to beat the winter blues. BY BEKAH WRIGHT

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OW DER H A S A RRIVED. It’s time to grab your gear and hit favor-

ite backcountry, bowls and bunny slopes. So where to start? We’ve got the season’s 411 on three stellar resorts, including a sky-high milestone anniversary in Squaw Valley, the lure of big air via Brian Head’s rebranded terrain parks, and a five-story adrenaline rush inside Aspen Snowmass’ newest luxury hotel. Can’t choose? Not to worry. The new Ikon Pass (see details below) makes it easy to hit many of the world’s most notorious slopes. Smiling yet?

Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows

Smell those pine trees. Hear the swish of skis zipping down inclines. Check out the 450 inches of annual snowfall and it’s obvious — you’re in North Lake Tahoe, at California’s Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows. This season, the resort welcomes visitors with the 50th-anniversary celebration of the Squaw Valley Aerial Tram. The world’s largest such system zips passengers up 2,000 vertical feet in state-of-the-art cabins. Riders are delivered to High Camp, where they can sip hot toddies at Terrace Restaurant and Bar, then make their way to the Observation Deck to survey the resort’s two mountains and 6,000 acres of prime ski terrain within 14 zones and 270 trails. Something spied in the mix — the Subway beginner area, which has expanded its snowmaking

system, giving Achieve Tahoe’s adaptive sports program more consistent conditions for teaching and easier access to the Alpine Meadows base area via the Subway chairlift. Another reason to celebrate this winter season is the debut of the Ikon Pass (ikon.com). The program gives participants unlimited skiing at up to 13 destinations, with set days at 36 participating ski and snowboard destinations on three continents, four Canadian provinces and 12 states. The price tag is a cool $999 for the Ikon Pass, $699 for Ikon Base (prices subject to change). Californians will applaud the inclusion of Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows, Mammoth Mountain, June Mountain and Big Bear Mountain Resort. squawalpine.com

Brian Head Resort

Seems most ski destinations have their own taglines these days — that is true at Brian Head Resort, where they go with “the Greatest Snow on Earth.” The resort doesn’t make this claim lightly. A snow mecca, Brian Head has 650 acres of the white stuff racing the mountain peaks of Giant Steps, Navajo and Brian Head, just right for downhill skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and cross-country skiing. It’s also home to Utah’s highest base elevation. Other stats that will speak to snow fans — 360 annual inches of snow, 71 runs, eight chairlifts and two surface lifts.

MATT PALMER; JEREMY SWANSON; MIKE SAEMISCH; HAL WILLIAMS PHOTOGRAPHY INC

Destinations / GO SKI THE WEST

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Opposite, clockwise from left: Squaw Valley Aerial Tram; New Year’s Eve in Snowmass; Snowmass is fun for kids. This image: Brian Head Resort with views of the Tushar Mountains.

Not to miss are two newly branded progressive-terrain parks, Detour and Bypass, located at Blackfoot Lift and collectively known as the Training Grounds. Detour is designated for beginners, with Bypass targeted to intermediate/advanced levels. Calling for tubing time are Navajo Tube Hill’s 75-foot vertical drop, with a 550-foot slope length, and Giant Steps Tube Hill, a 100-foot vertical drop with a 600-foot slope length. As enticing as Brian Head’s slopes action is, its backcountry snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and snowmobiling are also quite attractive. Nature’s sheer magnificence dazzles by way of sites like Cedar Breaks National Monument, Dixie National Forest and Cedar Canyon, which offer up eye-catching marvels like snow-dusted red rock spires and the Parowan Gap Petroglyphs. Where to head après-ski on a Saturday night? Giant Steps Lodge’s Last Chair Saloon for barbecue and live music. The chef behind the grill is none other than Brian Head Resort owner John Grissinger, who revels in sharing a taste of his Kansas City hometown with guests. Within walking distance are accommodations at Cedar Breaks Lodge and Spa, complete with indoor heated pool, day spa, bar and restaurant. What to plan while basking in the fireside hot tubs? Making the 1.5-hour drives to ooh and aah over Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks. brianhead.com

Aspen Snowmass

Four reasons Ski Magazine crowned Aspen Snowmass the 2019 Best of the West Resort: Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk and Snowmass. These four mountains ensure powder hounds never get bored. Keeping skiers on the slopes: three of the four get 300 annual inches of snow (Buttermilk averages 200 inches). Some more impressive stats: between them the members of this quartet have 5,517 acres, 360 trails and 41 lifts. Snowmass Base Village’s $600 million, 10-year revamp has a stellar update to check out — Limelight Hotel Snowmass. The 99-room property has features that run the gamut from a five-story climbing wall to an indoor-outdoor lounge with food. Also on tap are a fitness center, kids’ game area, outdoor spas and a deck. Creating buzz even before the hotel’s opening this month is Snowmass Mountain Club, a private club with social programming and luxe amenities (hello, ski valet). Convenient, considering this ski-in/ski-out hotel is adjacent to Elk Camp Gondola. Making a visit all the sweeter is the resort’s Ikon Pass participation. Even better, the Aspen Snowmass Premier, Flex and Double Flex and the Mountain Collective pass are complementary to the Ikon Pass program. aspensnowmass.com m M A R I N D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 8 85

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Destinations / JOURNEY

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Uganda On a dramatic conservation-focused jungle trek, a tourist and Gorilla Doctors encounter Dian Fossey’s great apes. STORY AND PHOTOS BY NORMA MEYER

ITH HIS WIGGLY saucer-eyed 4-month-

old son perched atop his mondo furry chest, the sleepy silverback gorilla looks like a storybook gentle giant. Although big Daddy also has a scary rep for violently breaking tree branches while charging at intruders — that’s why he was named Rushenya in the local language. When I first spot him, Rushenya rests on his back, comically grasping his raised feet with mannish fleshy fingers that soon steady his wobbly-legged Elviscoiffed son. Eight other family members are piled around, some grooming each other. Our tracker utters throat-clearing gorilla-speak humm-mmmms, which roughly means “Hello, we come in peace.” Rushenya briefly lifts his bulging forehead to study us. Thankfully he’s Zen. Awhile later, one

of his harem who is snuggling a month-old infant to her breast suddenly lets out what sounds like raspy pig grunts. “Don’t move. She is looking at us suspiciously. She is saying, ‘Keep your distance,’ ” cautions my ranger-guide, Obed Tukwasibwe. Gorillas are in our midst, about 25 feet away. In Uganda’s remote, dense and storied Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, with my adrenaline surging, I’m helping “train” a 23-member troop of rare semi-habituated mountain gorillas to get accustomed to humans. It’s a process famously associated with the late San Francisco–born primatologist Dian Fossey, a onetime College of Marin and UC Davis attendee who became the world’s most renowned gorilla scientist. Surprisingly, I’m the only tourist signed up for this day’s emotionally powerful, fascinatingly insightful and way edgy M A R I N D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 8 87

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Previous spread: View of the Virunga volcanoes from Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge; Rushenya, the lone silverback and leader of the Bikingi family. This page from top: A shy mother from the Bikingi family darts into the bushes; Gorilla Doctors Mike Cranfield and Fred Nizeyimana, carrying an ice chest to collect stool samples, on a Habituation Experience.

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Destinations / JOURNEY

Surprisingly, I’m the only tourist signed up for this day’s emotionally powerful, fascinatingly insightful and way edgy Gorilla Habituation Experience.

Gorilla Habituation Experience offered by the Uganda Wildlife Authority. The eventual goal is for these endangered hairy herbivores to view people as “neutral” so conservationists can monitor them and travelers can observe them on traditional gorilla treks. Accompanying me on the physically grueling hike up are the ranger-guide Obed, three machete-wielding trackers who bushwhack our way, two AK-47–armed guards, two porters and two Africa-based Gorilla Doctors doing a routine health-check “house call.” The Gorilla Doctors project, a partnership involving UC Davis’ School of Veterinary Medicine, is a separate extraordinary story — more than a dozen field veterinarians give lifesaving medical care to apes in African jungles, removing poachers’ snares that are strangling the animals’ necks and extremities, treating potentially deadly respiratory infections, and even amputating debilitating diseased limbs. Before we start, Obed issues me this chilling warning: “If a gorilla charges, stay where you are and don’t look in his eyes. Try to look submissive toward him — he will feel respected and it’ll cool down his temper. If you try to run away, even two steps, he will grab you.” As we shall see, I don’t quite heed that advice. First, though — unlike the regular gorilla trek where trackers have already located a habituated group for a one-hour encounter with tourists — we have to find the Rushenya-led Bikingi gorilla family, hidden two hours deep in the ruggedly steep rainforest, which is an emerald-green overgrown pathless obstacle of towering thickets, ankle-grabbing tangled vines, stinging nettles, biting safari ants and felled trees to scramble over. For the last suspense-thumping hour, I learn to track telltale signs: gnarly knuckle prints in the slippery mud, trampled vegetation, half-eaten stripped ferns. I astutely smell gorilla dung before discovering huge pungent piles in fly-swarmed leafy nests where clan members slept last night before moving on. My entire Uganda trip — this research outing to find the great apes, the “pygmy” people I visit in the local village, the Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge where I stay, and the Gorilla Doctors — is focused on protecting the critically endangered mountain gorillas. Once near-extinct, they’ve risen in number thanks to conservation measures I’m witnessing. Still, only about 1,000 of these magnificent creatures are left on earth, almost half in Uganda and the rest in Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. They remain gravely threatened by poaching, disease, habitat loss and civil unrest. To raise conservation funds and awareness, Uganda in 1993 began offering tourist treks to see gorillas already habituated by trackers via a process that takes around three years. After the Bikingi group graduates, it will be the 13th troop that can be visited once daily by a maximum of eight biped lookie-loos for a strict 60 minutes. When I did a traditional gorilla trek in late 2016, the Nyakagezi gorilla family

seemed to welcome us. Even though tourists are told to stay 23 feet away, 8-year-old “Baby Fred” stopped wrestling with his younger brother to scurry up a hill, curiously touch a woman on her lower leg, and somersault away. You’re forever changed after locking eyes with our highly intelligent close relatives who share 98 percent of our DNA, uncannily resemble someone you know, and laugh, bond and grieve. The longer trek called Habituation Experience, introduced in 2016, takes a maximum four tourists behind semi-wild simian scenes. For the last two-and-a-half years, trackers have visited the Bikingi group daily; strangers, like me, aren’t common, so we’re the experiment. I won’t have to hungrily feed on Brillantaisia plant pulp, but early on, trackers did, to mimic the gorillas’ behavior and gain trust — much like Fossey did in Rwanda. Also, like my trackers, she vocalized comforting gorilla sounds and over months lessened her distance as the animals became more accepting. Yes, they could rip your limbs off, but wild gorillas are generally shy and will flee from humans (a reason Gorilla Doctors can only treat habituated or semi-habituated ones). However, any gorilla, especially a silverback, the dominant male, may charge if he feels he or his family is in danger. The two Gorilla Doctors with me, Africa director Mike Cranfield and Uganda field vet Fred Nizeyimana, are familiar with agitated 450-pound canine-toothed beasts. When doing hands-on interventions, the doctors shoot an ailing patient with a flying dart to inject a sleep-inducing anesthesia, then go to work while trackers keep defensive silverbacks at bay. I know both “Dr. Mike” and “Dr. Fred” from my 2016 trip. The grown cheeky Baby Fred I adored had been named after Dr. Fred because years earlier the vet saved the theninfant’s life twice — once when a poacher’s wire snare sliced into the baby’s thigh and flung him upside down from a tree and another time when a poacher’s snare chokingly snapped around his neck. Sadly, three months after my 2016 visit, Baby Fred was fatally gored in the chest during a freakish confrontation with wild buffaloes. Dr. Fred had to perform the autopsy of his namesake on the forest ground, and even now, over a year later, he is emotional when recalling the pain on Baby Fred’s face as he lay dead. Survival of the species also involves reducing “humangorilla conflict.” My base for this May outing is Nkuringo, a poverty-stricken rural enclave on the rim of Bwindi’s Impenetrable Forest. In the late 1990s, after being habituated, the Nkuringo gorilla family lost their fear of humans and began trudging down to raid potatoes, bananas and other crops that local humans needed to feed themselves. Villagers talked of poisoning the apes. Then in 2000, there was a horrible outbreak of scabies among gorillas, believed to have been contracted from villagers. (Human disease is a major threat to apes.) Ultimately, a buffer zone of tea groves was planted that repelled the gorillas — they don’t like the M A R I N D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 8 89

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Destinations / JOURNEY

taste — and brings income to villagers. The upscale Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge was later built to generate more gorilla tourism dollars for locals — it’s operated by the private Wildplaces Africa company but owned by the Nkuringo community and employs all villagers, such as Monday, my kindly “butler,” born on a Monday and the eldest of nine children. By overnighting here, you’re helping to fund schools, the purchase of dairy heifers, handicraft training and other neighborhood programs, including those benefiting the outcast Batwa pygmies. The Batwas are the short-statured indigenous people who peacefully lived a hunter-gatherer existence in the jungle for eons until being evicted in 1991, when Bwindi Impenetrable National Park was created to protect the gorillas. In Nkuringo, impoverished Batwas, clad in bark cloth and colorful African fabrics, take paying visitors on the short Buniga Forest Trail to theatrically demonstrate their ancient culture, including how they use medicinal plants, ceremoniously dance and once slept in grass huts. At the end of the presentation, they sell handcarved wood gorillas and handwoven baskets because souvenirs for ape-trekking tourists now help them get by. I ask their animated leader, Irene Muhawe, what it was like coexisting in Bwindi with wild apes. She exuberantly mimes running away while looking over her shoulder. “The hands of the gorilla resemble a person’s,” she says through a translator. “The breasts are the same as a woman. They are our cousins.” As for our shaggy kin, after the hike up, the four-hour Habituation Experience officially begins at the spot trackers saw the family the day before (gorillas travel daily to find food), so after locating them I have nearly three riveting hours among apes. Some gorillas run off when they hear us approach; others, including Rushenya, keep taking their siestas, affectionately piled atop and touching each other in a big black clump. Funnily, there is a lot of farting. Dr. Fred focuses on the mother cradling the delicate onemonth-old. “Sometimes they will carry around their dead baby for a while,” he says. The infant squirms and Dr. Fred smiles widely and gives a thumbs-up. Sixteen months earlier, another baby in this Bikingi group had a sagging distended belly that hampered its ability to move. After a feces specimen from its nest revealed live roundworms, Dr. Fred darted the sickly infant with a deworming medication, saving him. Rushenya eventually arises and knuckle-walks farther into the forest, dutifully trailed by his children and mates. We tag behind but the vegetation is so tall and thick, all I unnervingly see and hear are branches cracking around me; we’re in their inner sanctum. As we tread on, impish youngsters magically appear, swinging from boughs and climbing trees. A mother with a fuzzy baby on her back scuttles into the lush foliage.

Elsewhere, in heavy undergrowth, I glimpse another female sweetly hugging her teeny offspring. Twice during our search, we come across lone Rushenya, contently chomping on morning glory vines and picking his nails with razor-sharp teeth. The final time we meet up, the amber-eyed patriarch is stoically sitting by himself. Then, out of the blue, he screams hellishly frightening high-pitched “barks” while aggressively charging at us down a slight incline. This is when I instinctively take those two forbidden steps — or three — to bolt. Dr. Fred stops me. Rushenya also stops, within 10 feet. It’s explained, as my heart explodes, that Rushenya thought we were getting too close to mothers and infants. There are eight females and 12 babies in his family, although none are in sight right now. (Gorillas are considered “babies” until age 3, when they are weaned.) With that dramatic farewell, our viewing time is up. On our trek back, Dr. Mike is happy about the thriving troop. “They all looked really healthy and anytime you see that, it’s great,” he says with a grin. Exactly one week later, Rushenya is found severely injured with bloodied infected wounds over his body, his hands swollen with gaping gashes, his left forelimb dragging as he ambles, and in obvious pain. The 27-year-old protector had been attacked by a wild unhabituated silverback who was likely bent on taking over Rushenya’s family, particularly the females. This is another peril of the jungle. A colleague Gorilla Doctor is summoned and darts Rushenya with antibiotics, which combat infection and often spur recovery in these cases. But that very evening, Rushenya is attacked again. Already weakened and vulnerable, Rushenya six days later is once more viciously attacked, this time by a semihabituated silverback, Mucunguzi, who had left his own troop and has been living a solitary existence. Rushenya again fights to keep his family, but suffers more serious injuries. Dr. Fred hikes into the forest on two different dates to dart the battered gorilla with antibiotics and a pain-relieving anti-inflammatory. During another follow-up checkup, his patient is moving slowly, feeding slightly and appears to be improving. But a few days later, Rushenya is found dead in his night nest. Dr. Fred’s postmortem shows the silverback had internal hemorrhaging and traumatic head wounds he could not recover from. When I hear the devastating news, I immediately think about the 12 babies. Silverbacks who take over families will murder infants to bring breastfeeding females back into mating cycles. So far, the babies and mothers remain unharmed with Rushenya’s killer. The loss of another mountain gorilla brings heartbreak to every human involved. But conservation efforts to save Fossey’s beloved apes push on. The Uganda Wildlife Authority is continuing the Habituation Experience with the Bikingi family, now led by Mucunguzi. m

Don’t move. She is looking at us suspiciously. She is saying, ‘Keep your distance.’

From top: Rushenya with members of his gorilla troop; the Batwa “pygmies” show tourists how they once lived in the forest amid gorillas.

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If You Go ESSENTIALS Travel packages, which include either the required Habituation Experience permit ($1,500 per person) or gorilla trek permit ($600), plus transportation and accommodations, are available from outfitter Uganda Safari Company (safariuganda. com). You can also book a permit through the Uganda Wildlife Authority (ugandawildlife.org) or various tour operators. STAYING THERE At nearly 7,000 feet, luxe Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge is Uganda’s highest lodge, with seven spacious stone cottages and a knockout view of the Virunga volcanoes. And you’re giving back to the community (wildplacesafrica.com). GETTING THERE Part of the adventure. From Los Angeles, I flew Ethiopian Airlines (ethiopianairlines. com) to Ireland, then to Ethiopia and finally on to Entebbe, Uganda. After that, a 75-minute bush plane flight delivered me to a dirt airstrip, where a driver fetched me for an intriguing two-hour bumpy “African massage” ascent up a winding road past terraced verdant farms to Clouds. Along the way, dozens of barefoot Ugandan children yelled “Hello,” waved and excitedly called out, “Muzungu!” which means “white person” in the local dialect. GORILLA DOCTORS Their work dates back to 1986. Shortly before her unsolved machete murder in Rwanda in 1985, Fossey was so alarmed there were only 250 mountain gorillas left worldwide that she asked for a veterinarian to come to Africa. Called the Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project, it teamed up with the Karen C. Drayer Wildlife Health Center at UC Davis in 2009 to officially form Gorilla Doctors (gorilladoctors.org).

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Marin Dance Theatre Passion, poise and excellence in a wonderful nurturing environment. For class schedules and enrollment information, please visit our website.

Come dance with us… www.mdt.org info@mdt.org 415-499-8891

“Experience the magic!”

Sophie

and the Enchanted Toyshop!

December 15th - 1 PM and 5:30 PM • For tickets: www.marincenter.org

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Out & About

A R O U N D U P O F T H E H O T T E S T L O C A L E V E N T S , S O C I A L G AT H E R I N G S A N D P L A C E S T O E AT

DAVID ALLEN

DANCE

Smuin's The Christmas Ballet LISTING Wild ArugulaON SaladPAGE 95

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Calendar

T H E AT E R / CO M E DY / M U S I C / M U S E U M S / E V E N T S / F I L M / TA L K S

E D I T E D B Y C A L I N VA N PA R I S

THRU DEC 23 A Bronx Tale Based on the oneman show that inspired the film, this musical set in the 1960s is about a man caught between family and the mob. Golden Gate Theatre (SF). 888.746.1799, shnsf.com

MUSIC

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THEATER THRU DEC 2 Try/Step/ Trip An anonymous narrator tells of his journey of drug rehabilitation through sobrietyinduced dreams told in the mediums of step dance and spoken word. A.C.T.’s Strand Theater (SF). 415.749.2228, act-sf.org

THRU DEC 8 Why Would I Mispronounce My Own Name? In this solo show, Irma Herrera uses history and comedy to examine names as commentary on societal prejudices and assumptions. The Marsh (SF). 415.282.3055, themarsh.org

THRU DEC 16 Dames at Sea Can a sailorturned songwriter save the show? This is the off-Broadway play that launched the career of Bernadette Peters when it first ran in 1968. Gateway Theatre (SF). 415.255.8207, 42ndstmoon.org

THRU DEC 16 Men on Boats Jaclyn Backhaus’s adventurous tale features 10 men, four boats and two rivers in a 21st-century take on the Civil War veteran John Wesley Powell’s exploration of the Wyoming waterways. A.C.T.’s Strand Theater (SF). 415.749.2228, act-sf.org

THRU DEC 31 Beach Blanket Babylon Holiday Extravaganza The ultimate parodymeets-celebration of the season centers on spoofs of pop culture and politics, exaggerated performances and the legendary Yuletide hat. Club Fugazi (North Beach). 415.421.4222, beachblanket babylon.com THRU JAN 9 Volta Cirque du Soleil returns to the Bay Area with a show inspired by the energy and culture of street sports, weaving acrobatics with a score composed by Anthony Gonzalez of M83. AT&T Park (SF). cirquedusoleil.com

THRU MAR The Best of San Francisco Solo Series With a run of performances by Brian Copeland, Will Durst, Maureen Langan and others, this series features some of the Bay Area’s most critically acclaimed one-person shows. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). marincenter.org DEC 4–23 Bat Out of Hell A limited production takes audiences on the kind of romantic adventure unique to rebellious youth, set in a post-cataclysmic city. Orpheum Theatre (SF). 888.746.1799, shnsf.com DEC 14–15 Sister’s Christmas Catechism Employing her own scientific tools, assisted by a local choir and a few audience members, Sister creates a living nativity unlike any you’ve seen. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). marincounty.org

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DANCE THRU DEC 9 The Velveteen Rabbit ODC co-artistic director KT Nelson’s now-classic interpretation of Margery Williams’ beloved children’s book returns to Yerba Buena Center for the Arts for its 32nd season. YBCA (SF). 415.978.2787, odcdance.org DEC 1–2 Merging ODC’s Pilot Program presents an amalgamation of world premieres from six female choreographers based in the Bay Area. ODC (SF). odc.dance DEC 1–2 Stapleton Ballet: Nutcracker One of the best parts of the season? The endless interpretations of The Nutcracker. More than 250 dancers from the Stapleton School of Performing Arts and a complimentary meet-and-greet with costumed characters after the show make this take a special one. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.473.6800, marincenter.org DEC 2 Beyond the Land of Sweets This holiday alternative to the Nutcracker presents favorite dances from the classic ballet along with winter traditions from a variety of other cultures. Herbst Theatre (SF). presidiodance.org DEC 8–9 Marin Ballet: Nutcracker Marin Ballet presents its rendition complete with Victorian costumes, larger-than-life sets and the excitement of more than 200 dancers prepared to spread holiday cheer to children (and adults) of all ages.

Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). marin center.org DEC 12–29 Nutcracker Dream along with Clara as she encounters sugar plum fairies, toy soldiers and her prince. The classic ballet is a lovely way to get into the holiday spirit. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.865.2000, sfballet.org DEC 13–24 The Christmas Ballet Styles ranging from tap to ballet to swing and more help bring in the holidays, with classical and cool elements sure to enchant. YBCA (SF). 415.912.1899, smuinballet.org DEC 22 Tapcracker Dance With Sherry Studio presents a reimagining of the traditional tale, this time with a variety of dance disciplines, Sugar Plum Barbies, rapping rats and more. Belrose Theatre (San Rafael). dancewithsherry studio.com

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COMEDY DEC 31 Paula Poundstone Say goodbye to 2018 in the company of Paula Poundstone and her razor-sharp wit. Nourse Theatre (SF). 415.392.4400, cityarts.net

MUSIC THRU DEC 1 Ifigenia in Aulide Ars Minerva presents Giovanni Porta’s Baroque opera, based on Euripides’ tragedy, in its first staging since its premiere in 1738. ODC Theater (SF). 415.863.9834, odc.dance

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Out & About / CALENDAR DEC 19–21 Home Alone with the San Francisco Symphony This cult holiday story is augmented by a live score played by the San Francisco Symphony. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

MUSEUMS MARIN Bay Area Discovery Museum My Sky Bring the sky to earth with a series of interactive activities, through January 6 (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykids museum.org Bolinas Museum The history room features images of the Parkin family in Bolinas at the turn of the 20th century, through December 30 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org

A Christmas Carol at the Geary Theater, S.F.

THRU DEC 9 It’s a Wonderful Life Revisit the timeless tale of how precious life is. As George Bailey contemplates his life on Christmas, an angel training for her wings offers up a journey through his memories to inspire a second chance. War Memorial Opera House (SF). sfopera.com DEC 1–2 Holiday Choral Concert Marin Symphony presents a blend of traditional and contemporary holiday music and carols. Saint Raphael Church (San Rafael). 415.479.8100, marinsymphony.org

DEC 2 Deck the Hall Bring the whole family for a seasonal concert featuring holiday selections as presented by orchestra members and guest artists. After the show, enjoy a party with crafts and refreshments. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org DEC 7–8 Brassy and Sassy The San Francisco Gay Men’s Chorus toasts the season with a feisty performance backed by a brass quintet. Nourse Theatre (SF). 415.392.4400, sfgmc.org

DEC 9 Kitka Wintersongs Celebrate wintertime with Kitka, a women’s vocal ensemble. The group’s acclaimed holiday program features seasonal music from a wide variety of Eastern European ethnic and spiritual traditions — think Slavic folk carols and Baltic pagan incantations. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). marinjcc.org DEC 15–16 Nachtmusik The Marin Oratorio chorus and orchestra honors the music of Franz Schubert. College of Marin (Kentfield). marinoratorio.org

Marin History Museum Numerous collections containing historical articles, documents, artifacts and photographs commemorating the traditions, innovation and creativity in Marin County (Novato). 415.382.1182, marinhistory.org Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Winter National Juried Exhibition Contemporary artists from across the country are invited to show their work, through December 23 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.org

BAY AREA Asian Art Museum Painting Is My Everything: Art from India’s Mithila Region This exhibition features 17 contemporary artists (many of them women) using time-honored

regional styles to express personal viewpoints, through December 30 (SF). 415.581.3711, asianart.org Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive Old Masters in a New Light: Rediscovering the European Collection As its title suggests, a revisitation of BAMPFA’s collection of European works, through December 16 (Berkeley). 510.642.0808, bampfa.org California Academy of Sciences Giants of Land and Sea Discover the forces that make Northern California a place unlike anywhere else. Step inside an immersive fog room, feel a jolt in an earthquake simulator, and explore marine mammal skeletons and models (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org Contemporary Jewish Museum Veiled Meanings: Fashioning Jewish Dress, from the Collection of the Israel Museum, Jerusalem An exhibition exploring the power of clothing worn within Jewish communities and how those choices portray Jewish and secular affiliatio , through January 6 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org de Young Contemporary Muslim Fashions Discover the complex, diverse nature of Muslim dress codes worldwide. This exhibition traverses different religious interpretations and cultures and includes high-end fashion, through January 6 (SF). 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org

di Rosa Be Not Still: Living in Uncertain Times (Part 2) A continuation of an exhibition of works responding to the evolving social and political climate, through December 30 (Napa). 707.226.5991, dirosaart.org Exploratorium Ongoing interactive exhibits exploring science, art and human perception (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu Legion of Honor Islam and the Classical Heritage This exhibition sheds light on the authors, philosophers and scientists of the Islamic world and how they spread classical knowledge via the medium of manuscripts, through January 27 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionofhono .famsf.org Museum of the African Diaspora Ficre Ghebreyesus: City with a River Running Through The fir t showing of its kind on the West Coast, this exhibition brings together more than a dozen works from Eritrean-American artist Ficre Ghebreyesus, through December 16 (SF). 415.358.7200, moadsf.org Museum of Craft and Design Gustavo Perez: Self-Portrait in Black and White An installation of several different series marks milestones in Perez’s development, through February 24 (SF). 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org Oakland Museum of California Cruisin’ the Fossil Coastline Art and science come together through fantastical renderings by Ray Troll and the research of paleontologist Kirk Johnson,

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• college prep curriculum with a creative approach • meaningful mentorships • focus on well-being and social-emotional growth

considering making a change?

S P OT L I G H T

Cirque du Soleil's Volta

Bradley Henderson talks circus life, expression and hoop diving. Volta, Cirque du Soleil's latest production, tells the story of Waz, a game show contestant bound for a journey of extraordinary self-discovery, the tale translated by acrobats, shape divers, BMX riders and more. We sat down with Bradley Henderson, who was raised in San Francisco and trained at San Francisco’s Circus School and who joins Volta as a hoop diver. See it under the big top at AT&T Park through February 3. cirquedusoleil.com/volta

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MM: What is the role of hoop divers in Volta? BH: I would say hoop divers are considered transitional characters in the show. My character begins as a “Grey" and transforms into a “Free Spirit.” This morphing has a positive effect on the main character, Waz. Our hoop diving act is so important because it contributes to the story line, showing Waz’s social acceptance in finding himself and his own free spirit. MM: Did you learn anything new in this show? BH: This is the first show where I’ve had the privilege of working with so many different types of artists. I was accustomed to working with smaller casts in more intimate settings. It is very refreshing to be surrounded by the vast array of talents that each artist brings to the table. I’ve also finally learned how to put makeup on properly. I had never had such an extensive makeup tutorial before I worked for this company. I’m definitely more confident with this new skill set. MM: What makes Volta special? BH: Volta is a stamp in time. It’s a show about now, a zeitgeist of the culture in the modern world. Though the characters have extravagant costumes and makeup, they deal with real human problems — distraction of competition in a capitalist society, ultra-reality of the digital world, navigating yourself through a tech maze in order to discover yourself and what you can contribute to this planet. Volta emancipates the artist and audience alike because it is so relatable to every human.

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Top Five Picks

through March 17 (Oakland). 510.318.8400, museumca.org

What’s Hot in December

Muir Beach Holiday Arts Fair Stock up on gifts and enjoy some treats at this favorite community event. December 1–2, Community Center (Muir Beach). muirbeachartsfair.com

2 3

A triad of ghosts, Ebenezer Scrooge and Tiny Tim come together to remind audiences of the real benefits of holiday spirit in Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol. December 6–29, Geary Theater (SF). act-sf.org

A new county classic,

Marin Symphony Holiday Pops

features seasonal classics, traditional carols and favorite themes — with added bonuses like the Marin Symphony Chorus and complimentary cookies and cider. December 11, Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). marinsymphony.org

The Christmas Jug Band

Enjoy this Marin tradition: an assemblage of musicians, a backwoods sound and equal parts irreverence and holiday cheer. December 17, Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). sweetwatermusichall.com

Laugh your way into 2019 at the New Year’s Eve Comedy Showcase, timed so attendees can be elsewhere for the stroke of midnight or stay for a festive after-party with the comics. December 31, Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). marinjcc.org

SFMOMA Vija Celmins: To Fix the Image in Memory SFMOMA welcomes this global debut — the fir t North American retrospective of the artist’s work in 25 years — featuring renderings of the natural world, from ocean waves to desert floor , December 15–March 31 (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org Sonoma Valley Museum of Art From Fire, Love Rises: Stories Shared from the Artist Community Artists impacted by the October 2017 fires in Sonoma and Napa counties share a multitude of works,

through January 6 (Sonoma). svma.org

EVENTS

The Walt Disney Family Museum Walt Disney’s Nine Old Men: Masters of Animation An exhibition highlighting Disney Studios artists dubbed the “Nine Old Men” by Walt Disney, through January 7 (SF). 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org

THRU DEC 2 ICB Winter Open Studios Now in its 50th year, ICB’s annual event invites art-lovers to go inside the studios where more than 100 painters, sculptors, jewelers, photographers and others create their work. ICB (Sausalito). icb-artists.com

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts Bay Area Now 8 This survey exhibit features visual artists specializing in a range of mediums, as selected through a series of studio visits, to present a picture of the Bay Area in the present tense, through March 24 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org

THRU DEC 23 The Great Dickens Christmas Fair and Victorian Holiday Party Step back into Victoria-era London to experience the season in true Dickensian fashion. The lively streets are complete with holiday carolers, pleasant aromas, one-of-a-kind Christmas gifts and even Fezziwig’s dance

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hall. Cow Palace (SF). dickensfair.com DEC 1 Contemporary Jewish Museum Family Gala This year’s gala theme, “Express Yourself,” encourages attendees to participate through imaginative art-making, interactive games and more, inspired by the museum’s current lineup of aesthetic exhibitions. Contemporary Jewish Museum (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org DEC 1 Landmarks Holiday Art and Craft Sale A popular holiday fair in a historic farm cottage filled with art and crafts from local makers, with gift options ranging from jewelry to seasonal spices. Landmarks

Art and Garden Center (Tiburon). 415.847.4209, landmarkssociety.com DEC 1–31 Gingerbread House Tour Grab a map from the Sausalito Chamber of Commerce and make your way around town to discover a variety of magical baked creations. Various locations (Sausalito). 415.331.9900, saus alitogingerbread.com DEC 2 Mill Valley Winterfest Back for its 21st year, Winterfest brings the appeal of a white Christmas to Mill Valley. A familyfriendly day of holiday fun includes local food, live entertainment, the famous snow slide and — of course — a visit from Santa.

Depot Plaza (Mill Valley). 415.388.9700, enjoymillvalley.com DEC 2 Santa Visits Nick’s Cove Santa Claus arrives by water sleigh for a special waterfront holiday photo op. Nick’s Cove (Marshall). 415.663.1033, nickscove.com DEC 8 Lighted Boat Parade More than 50 festively adorned boats switch on their seasonal lights for a holiday trip through Sausalito harbors. Waterfront (Sausalito). winterfestsausalito.com DEC 8–9 Marin Indoor Antique French Market Big Christmas Show Shop more than 70 booths of antiques and

collectibles for unique gifts. Highlights include Native American art, antique jewelry, vintage toys and more. Marin Center Exhibit Hall (San Rafael). 415.383.2252, goldengateshows.com DEC 8–9 Spirited Marin Holiday Marketplace Join Spirited Marin for two days of discovery, shopping, tastings and charitable giving, with 25 percent of proceeds benefiting local organizations Beyond Differences, ExtraFood and MarinCASA. 415.272.0918, spiritedmarin.org

FILM DEC 23 The Nutcracker Make like Marie and be transported into the land of the Nutcracker as performed by the Bolshoi Ballet, from the comfort of your Larkspur theater seat. Lark Theatre (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net

WALKS/TALKS ONGOING First Tuesday ArtWalk Join the Mill Valley Arts Commission each month for a stroll through town to view exhibits by local artists. Various locations (Mill Valley). cityofmillvalley.org

ONGOING Free First Wednesdays Visit the Bay Area Discovery Museum the fir t Wednesday of every month for an outing full of exploration and fun. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykidsmuseum.org DEC 5 Winter Soups and Stews In this class, you’ll explore cream soups, broth soups and hearty stews, including a few international options. The Cooking School at Cavallo Point (Sausalito). cavallopoint.com

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Eat & Drink A N I N S I D E R ’ S G U I D E T O R E S TA U R A N T S A N D G O O D F O O D I N T H E B AY A R E A

E DITE D BY MIMI TOWLE Cheeseburger Deluxe

The Interior

Ceviche Pescatora-Style

What’s Hot

Posh New York Style Comes to S.F.

Let’s be honest: shopping can be tiring. Now you can take a load off, collect your senses, and re-energize with stylish drinks and elegantly presented food at the newly opened Freds at Barneys New York in San Francisco. Step away from the fray and slip into a cozy vestibule, which gives way to a mirrored lounge and bar and a corner dining room near Union Square. Created by Barneys New York, Steven Harris Architects and Lalire March Architects, the light-filled interior with blond wood, white walls, and aquamarine accents is stunning and soothing. Dine on classics such as Estelle’s chicken soup, Freds chopped chicken salad, and pizza margarita, or refresh with nibbles and small plates such as posh Belgian pommes frites or a confetti of ceviche pestactorastyle spooned into a martini glass. Before you know it, you will be fully recharged and ready to get back to the business of shopping. LYNDA BALSLEV WHO Chef Marc Strausman WHAT Freds at Barneys comes to San Francisco WHERE 77 O’Farrell St, S.F., 415.268.3550, barneys.com/restaurants/freds s $$ LD

Belgian Pommes Frites

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Out & About / DINE CORTE MADERA IL FORNAIO Italian Aside from pizzas and pastas, this upscaleItalian franchise serves a variety of salads and carb-free entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com s $$ S Í C LD BR MARIN PIZZA Pizza Farm-to-pizza is the mission of this fastcasual restaurant. Choose from signature pies or design your own. The pizza is baked on a convection conveyor of rotating stone slabs, which ensures a crisp, thin crust without the long wait. 107 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.891.8788, marin.pizza b $$ S Í LD PARRANGA Mexican The eat-in or takeout menu offers standouts such as rotisserie chicken and an extensive taco selection, along with madeto-order tortillas, ceviche and churros, washed down with whole-fruit juices, aqua frescas, Mexican craft beer or a margarita. Strawberry Village, 800 Redwood Hwy, Ste 801, 415.569.5009, parranga.com b $$ S Í LD º PIG IN A PICKLE American Fresh and locally sourced brisket, pork, ribs and chicken get star billing at this Town Center eatery. Sauces are crafted to represent various American barbecue regions, including Memphis and South Carolina. House-made pickles, buns and sausages will keep you coming back. 341 Corte Madera Town Center,

415.891.3265, piginapicklebbq.com b $$ S Í BLD TAMALPIE Pizza The second location of the original Mill Valley pizzeria is now open, with indoor and outdoor seating plus takeout and delivery. Try the locally inspired pizzas and seasonal cocktails. 55 Tamal Vista Blvd, 415.704.7437, tamalpie pizza.com s $$ S Í LD º THE COUNTER California Create your own salads and burgers using all-natural proteins including Angus beef, turkey, chicken, mahimahi, bison or the latest addition, the Impossible Burger. Gluten-free options and a vegan veggie burger are also available. The restaurant has patio seating, a kick-back vibe and a popular happy hour. Give the spiked milkshake a try. 201 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.924.7000, thecounterburger.com s $$ S Í LD º WORLD WRAPPS California Owners Keith Cox and Matt Blair have revamped this “fast food” joint to feature healthy and flavorful items like a Hawaiian poke wrap and a tahini tofu summer roll that’s vegan-friendly. Exotic housemade beverages include boba tea, mango lassi and Vietnamese iced coffee. 208 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.3663, worldwrapps.com $ S Í LD

FAIRFAX 123 BOLINAS California Created by four friends wanting to showcase seasonal fare in a

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Out & About / DINE

• FLOUR CRAFT BAKERY American Along with artisan glutenfree pastries, breads and special-occasion cakes, this place serves lunch, with dairy-free and vegan choices available. Customer favorites include oatmeal chocolate chip cookies, decadent cinnamon rolls, flourless hazelnut brownies and the bakery’s signature granola 702 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.3100, flour craftbakery.com $ S Í BL Chocolate Cupcakes

relaxing, intimate environment, this cozy one-room eatery offers locally brewed beer, small-production wines and seasonal food along with a view of Bolinas Park through the floor-to-ceiling windows. 123 Bolinas St, 415.488.5123, 123bolinas.com b $$ S Í D º GRILLY’S Mexican If you’re looking for a quick, fresh meal, Grilly’s is an easy and delicious stop. Pick up a couple burritos and the much-loved chicken taco salad and you have a lunch or dinner to please the whole family. 1 Bolinas Ave, 415.457.6171, grillys.com $ S Í C BLD IRON SPRINGS PUB & BREWERY American Pair your pick from the extensive beer list with an ale-braised barbecue pork sandwich, shrimp tacos or the

house-ground-chicken bacon cheeseburger. 765 Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com b $$ S Í C LD º MAS MASA Mexican Chef and owner Patrick Sheehy focuses on the ancient technique of corn nixtamalization, using organic, non-GMO blue corn to make its handmade tortillas. The beer and wine lists highlight local California microbreweries and wineries. 31 Bolinas Road, 415.529.5444, eatmasmasa.com s $$ S Í LD SPLIT ROCK TAP & WHEEL American The former Fairfax Cyclery space, which had been operating as just a bike shop, has been reconfigured and now also serves food and an assortment of beers. Menu items include pizzas, sandwiches,

and snacks like citrus marinated olives or house-made pickles. Beers on tap are almost all exclusively local favorites. 2020 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.721.7644, splitrock tapandwheel.com b $$ LD

GREENBRAE GOTT’S ROADSIDE American The restaurant’s first Marin outpost features the signature Californiainspired dishes Gott’s is renowned for as well as a roll-up garage door that brings the outside in when weather permits and a 30-footlong pine table for community-style eating. 302 Bon Air Center, 415.785.4233, gotts.com b $$ S Í BLD JASON’S California Head to Jason’s for seafood dishes with an Asian and Italian

flair. Try the fisherman stew or miso-glazed Chilean sea bass. 300 Drakes Landing Road, 415.925.0808, jasons restaurant.com s $$$ S Í C LD

KENTFIELD HALF DAY CAFE American Tucked away in a setting of intertwining ivy and large open windows, this cafe is the quintessential breakfast nook and is also open for brunch and lunch, including coffee drinks, pastries and much more. Enjoy a casual meal inside or out on the patio. 848 College Ave, 415.459.0291, halfdaycafe.com b $$ S Í BL BR

LARKSPUR EL HUARACHE LOCO Mexican The menu has gained quite a following

for the authentic Mexico City dishes. From mini huaraches (filled corn masa cakes) to the foot-long huarache with two salsas, crema, queso fresco and two toppings of your choice, you’re sure to get a true taste of a homemade Mexican meal. Marin Country Mart, 1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.1403, huaracheloco.com b $ S Í BLD FARMSHOP American Located in the Marin Country Mart since 2013, Farmshop Marin has quickly become a top spot here in the county. Indoor and outdoor seating available. Marin Country Mart, 2233 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.755.6700, farmshopca.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR LEFT BANK RESTAURANT French This authentically classic brasserie has been serving the Larkspur community for more than two decades. Whether on the patio, at the European-style bar or in the casually elegant main dining room, it’s a fun and French experience. 7 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR PICCO California Popular since its inception, Picco has a seasonally driven menu featuring items such as risotto (made every half hour) that keep attracting return visits. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com s $$$ S Í C D PIZZERIA PICCO Pizza This upscale parlor offers Californiainfluenced Neapolitan

pizzas, cooked in a wood-burning pizza oven. Fresh mozzarella is pulled in-house and the menu also features organic salads, a daily soup and Straus Dairy soft-serve ice cream. 316 Magnolia Ave, 415.945.8900, pizzeriapicco.com b $$ S Í LD º R’NOH THAI Thai This cozy place by the Corte Madera Creek has a reputation for clean and tasty dishes. From curries and Thai barbecue to noodle dishes and the classic tom ka (coconut lemongrass soup), R’Noh is bound to satisfy your Thai cravings. For an indulgent treat, try the fried sweet potato appetizer. 1000 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.0599, rnohthai.com b $$ S Í LD RUSTIC BAKERY California The homegrown bakery is known and loved the world over: Pope Francis famously requested Rustic Bakery flatbread and crostini when he visited the U.S. in 2015. Organic bread, croissants and pastries baked fresh each morning and salads, sandwiches, and soups for lunch make Rustic a local staple. 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556; Marin Country Mart, 2017 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.9900, rusticbakery.com b $$ S Í BLD BR

MILL VALLEY BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and ChiliLime “Brick” Chicken are a few of the satisfying comfort-food menu

DEBRA TARRANT

Chicken Pumpkin Taco

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All Seasons

A T E R I N G

O M P A N Y

‘Tis the Season for Holiday Party Planning Book now and let All Seasons Catering host your holiday party at The Seminary at Strawberry in Mill Valley Please contact events@theseminaryatstrawberry.com for package pricing. theseminaryatstrawberry.com • allseasonscatering.com

LOCAL • SEASONAL • SUSTAINABLE

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Out & About / DINE

• FISHER’S CHEESE + WINE American Marin Country Mart gets a cheeseinspired restaurant and retail shop by Kiri Fisher. Expect a unique selection of fromage and wine as well as hot dishes like meatballs with creamed kale. Marin Country Mart, 2201 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.779.2201 fisherscheese.com b $$ Í LD BR

items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm dark-wood bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Highway, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com s $$ C LD BR

return to try the chipotle rice bowl. A casual lunch spot and great for takeout, Cafe del Soul also serves smoothies and pressed juices. 247 Shoreline Highway, 415.388.1852, cafedelsoul.net $ S Í LD

BUNGALOW 44 American One of Mill Valley’s neighborhood hot spots, featuring contemporary California comfort food, signature cocktails, fine wine, and one-dollar oysters from 5 to 6 p.m. every day. 44 E Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com s $$$ S Í C D

FLOUR CRAFT BAKERY American The brainchild of pastry chef Heather Hardcastle, this second location, in the bright and airy renovated Lumber Yard, offers not only gluten-free baked goods but sandwiches, salads and takeout. The first location is in San Anselmo. 129 Miller Ave, 415.384.8244, flourcraftbakery.com b $$ S Í BL

CAFE DEL SOUL California Healthy options become addictive at this eatery that now has locations in both Tam Valley and San Rafael. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh quinoa wrap, you’ll want to

FRANTOIO RISTORANTE Italian Frantoio Ristorante specializes in organic and non-GMO Northern Italian cuisine and has been serving Mill Valley for over two decades. This female owned trattoria

produces its own olive oil with a unique onsite olive oil press. For special occasions and private parties, the restaurant offers an olive-press room or the larger Green Room. The weekday happy hour starts at 4:30 p.m. 415.289.5777, frantoio.com s $$$ Í C LD º GRILLY’S Mexican If you’re looking for a quick, fresh meal, Grilly’s is an easy and delicious stop. Pick up a couple burritos and the much-loved chicken taco salad and you have a lunch or dinner to please the whole family. 493 Miller Ave, 415.381.3278, grillys.com b $ S Í C BLD BR HARMONY Chinese Enjoy a lighter take on Chinese at this restaurant, nestled in Strawberry Village. The barbecue pork bun is filled with house-made roasted meat in a savory sauce, and signature

prawns are wok seared with scallions. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea and be sure to check out the weekday takeout lunch special. 401 Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmonyrestaurant group.com b $$ S LD JOE’S TACO LOUNGE Mexican Joe’s serves up fish tacos, burritos and enchiladas as well as more unusual items like Mexican pizza, tofu tostada and crab tostadas. A colorful interior and quick service make this a fun, easy stop. If there are too many unsupervised kids for a peaceful meal, takeout is easy too. If you stay, grab a selection of hot sauce bottles from the wall and find your perfect match. 382 Miller Ave, 415.383. 8164, joestacolounge.com b $$ S Í BLD PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR Italian The staff rides itself on capturing the warm and

welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Get a table by the window or on the outdoor deck for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Peruse the impressive selection of Italian wines to accompany your rustic seasonal meal. 625 Redwood Highway, 415.380.2525, piatti.com s $$ S Í C LD BR PIAZZA D’ANGELO Italian Family owned for over 35 years, Piazza D’Angelo evokes a traditional trattoria dining experience. Enjoy a variety of house-made pastas, meat and seafood dishes, wood-fired pizzas, and gluten-free offerings with organic and locally sourced ingredients. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com s $$ S Í C LD BR º PIZZA ANTICA Italian Besides its popular thin-crust pizzas, this Strawberry Village restaurant serves seasonal dishes like Tuscan fried chicken with spicy honey, burrata with crushed sweet peas and toasted focaccia, and ricotta gnocchi with sun-dried tomato cream. 800 Redwood Highway, 415.383.0600, pizzaantica.com b $$ S LD BR º PIZZA MOLINA Pizza One of Mill Valley’s favorite pizzerias is back with a distinctly family-friendly, casual vibe. Patrons can find their favorite California wines and beers on tap along with a robust pizza menu that incudes gluten-free and vegan options. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, pizza molina.com b $$ S Í D

PLAYA Mexican Drawing inspiration from travels and the fresh, flavorful cuisine served on the playa, Peter Schumacher and Bill and Vanessa Higgins have developed a menu that blends locally sourced, organic and sustainable ingredients with a bar highlighting a selection of exceptional tequilas and mezcals. 41 Throckmorton Ave, 415.384.8871, playamv.com s $$ Í D PRABH INDIAN KITCHEN Indian Owned and operated by the Dhindsa family, this restaurant emphasizes healthy, organic,sustainable eating in choices like chicken pakora, vegetable biryani and basil garlic naan foods, with options for the vegan and gluten-free. At lunch, the thali menu lets you try several Indian dishes at once. 24 Sunnyside Ave, 415.384.8241, prabhindian kitchen.com b $$ S Í LD SHORELINE COFFEE SHOP American Tucked away in a parking lot at Tam Junction, this coffee shop is a funky diner with a small-town feel. Check out the mix of Mexican and traditional breakfast fare. 221 Shoreline Highway, 415.388.9085, shoreline coffeeshop.com b $$ S Í BL BR SWEETWATER MUSIC HALL CAFE American Located at the entrance of Sweetwater Music Hall, the cafe is dedicated to the FLOSS philosophy: Fresh, Local, Organic, Seasonal and Sustainable. Offering

STEVE KEPPLE

Fig Caprese

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breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, the menu includes brown-butter scrambled eggs on avocado toast, crispy potatoricotta gnocchi and vegan Thai spring rolls with sweet-and-sour sauce. 19 Corte Madera Ave, 415.388.3850, sweetwater musichall.com s $$ S Í BLD BR º TAMALPIE Italian Owner Karen Goldberg designed this restaurant with a large group seating area, indoor and outdoor fireplaces, and a small casual bar. The food is Italian home cooking with the daily modern inspiration of locally sourced seasonal ingredients found in the salads, house-made pastas and crispy Neapolitan-style

pizza, with a selection of beer and wine to match. 477 Miller Ave, 415.388.7437, tamalpie pizza.com s $$ S Í C LD º THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch. 615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444, theplela.com s $$ S Í LD URBAN REMEDY American This is a popular spot for organic and non-GMO coldpressed juices, snacks and ready-to-eat meals, plenty of gluten-free, grain-free, and lowglycemic-index choices,

and even raw desserts. Try the namesake salad or give the cashew milk with cinnamon and vanilla a shot to see what Urban Remedy is all about. 15 E Blithedale Ave, 415.383.5300, urbanremedy.com $$ Í BLD

NOVATO BESO BISTRO AND WINE BAR California This bistro highlights locally sourced organic produce, sustainable seafood, and pastureraised and free-range meat. Wine lovers can embrace their inner Dionysus — Beso offers more than 20 selections by the glass and more than 50 by the bottle. 502 S Palm Drive, besobistro.com b $$ Í LD

BOCA TAVERN American Bring a date here or celebrate a special event. Favorites at this classic restaurant include bigeye tuna poke, Dungeness crab cakes, mac ’n’ cheese croquettes and duck-fat fries. From the woodburning grill there’s fresh fish, shrimp and dry-aged ribeye. On Tuesdays wine is half off. 415.883.0901, bocasteak.com s $$$ S Í C LD º CHIANTI CUCINA Italian This cozy eatery offers an array of Italian and American dishes, including a long list of pastas; try the housemade ravioli cooked up by chef Edgar DeLon. 7416 Redwood Highway, 415.878.0314, chianti novato.com b $$$ S Í D º

HILLTOP 1892 California In a historic country estate in Novato with sweeping views, enjoy classic favorites with a California flair. There’s a private banquet room for special events. 850 Lamont Ave, 415.893.1892, hilltop1892.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR º RICKEY’S RESTAURANT & BAR American Besides a fullservice restaurant and bar (with banquet and meeting rooms), this comfort food bastion offers poolside dining and a garden patio overlooking green lawns. 250 Entrada Drive, 415.883.9477, rickeys restaurant.com s $$ S Í C D º

2018 BEST OF THE COUNTY

SOUP Avatar’s Kitti’s Playa Pho Viet Saltwater Oyster Depot Tony’s Seafood RUSTIC BAKERY California Organic pastries, breads, salads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including daily seasonal specials. Try the Marin Melt — Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam and Point Reyes Toma cheeses grilled

The natural beauty of the course presents a spectacular backdrop for your outdoor ceremony. Our gorgeous salons and outdoor terrace are the perfect choice for your reception, rehearsal dinner or bridal shower. Intimate or grand, informal or lavish, The Clubhouse at Peacock Gap provides a beautiful setting to begin your happily ever after.

333 Biscayne Drive • San Rafael, CA 94901-1599 • 415-453-4910 • peacockgapclubhouse.com

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Out & About / DINE • FENIX California An intimate live-music venue in the heart of downtown San Rafael, Fenix features inspired California cuisine with a Southern French twist. Executive chef Lorenzo Villacampa brings a world of expertise, having worked at the Dubai InterContinental Hotel and the Gloria Plaza Hotel in Beijing, among other fine dining locations. 919 Fourth St, 415.813.5600, fenixlive.com s $$ S C D BR º

Squash Soup

on honey whole wheat, served with dressed baby greens and crisp apple slices. 1407 Grant Ave, 415.878.4952, rusticbakery.com b $$ S Í BLD BR

SAN ANSELMO COMFORTS CAFE American Established in 1986, Comforts has a cozy sit-down patio and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. A large takeout section offers fresh bakery items, seasonal salads, soups, sandwiches and even entrees for dinner at home. Besides the famous Chinese chicken salad, other winners are the stuffed pecan-crusted French toast, flavorful scrambles, Chicken Okasan (nicknamed “Crack Chicken” by fans) and wonton soup. 335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com b $$ S Í BL BR CREEKSIDE PIZZA & TAP ROOM American

Under the direction of chef Janet Abrahamson, Creekside serves American-style artisan pizza (vegan and gluten-free options available) and organic salads, along with an extensive selection of craft beer on tap and Northern California wines. There’s a daily happy hour, a big-screen TV and a banquet room available by reservation. 638 San Anselmo Ave, 415.785.4450, creeksidesa.com b $$ S C D º CUCINA SA Italian Owners Donna Seymour and Kevin Hansmeyer renovated this cozy space, formerly Cucina Restaurant and Wine Bar, and reopened it as Cucina Sa in December 2015. Homemade pastas, wood-fired pizzas and Italian wines are on the menu, a large part of it vegetarian and gluten-free-friendly. 510 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.2942, cucina-sa.com b $$ Í D

L’APPART RESTO French Savor a range of French and local favorites or a $36 three-course prix fixe menu in an energetic yet sophisticated setting. There’s live music on Thursdays; dinner Monday to Saturday; lunch and brunch Friday to Sunday. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.256.9884, lappartresto.com b $$ S Í LD BR MADCAP California Chef Ron Siegel has opened his first solo venture in a contemporary art-filled space with an urban edge. The vegetable-centric menu incorporates seafood and local ingredients, fusing California and Japanese cuisines in colorful dishes that are bold, balanced and bright. 198 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.453.9898, madcapmarin.com b $$$ D M.H. BREAD AND BUTTER California A one-stop shop for

everything from coffee and pastries to artisan bread, with a seasonal brunch menu. Highquality ingredients and a comfortable atmosphere make MH worth checking out. 101 San Anselmo Ave, 415.755.4575, mhbreadandbutter.com b $$ S Í BL BR PIZZALINA Italian Along with handmade pizzas baked in a wood oven, you’ll find classic shrimp risotto and a caprese salad with mozzarella di bufala. Menus change daily according to seasonal markets but always include salads, antipastos, house-made pastas and main dishes. Outdoor dining available. 914 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.256.9780, pizzalina.com b $$ S Í LD º TACO JANE’S Mexican Taco Jane’s full bar features a robust tequila and mezcal selection. Its regional Mexican cuisine includes Oaxacan mole, fish

tacos and vegetarian options. Black Gold salsa arrives with complimentary chips and is created using charred blackened tomatoes and roasted chilis. Live music Thursdays, enclosed patio seating all year round, weekday happy hour 4:30 to 6 p.m. 21 Tamalpais Ave, 415.454.6562, tacojanes.com s $$ S Í LD BR VALENTI & CO. Italian This bright and cozy space is the ideal environment for authentic Italian dishes made with local ingredients. A seat at the chef’s table gives a prime view of the open kitchen. 337 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.7800, valentico.com b $$$ D

SAN RAFAEL LA TOSCANA RISTORANTE & BAR Italian Family owned and operated since 1985, La Toscana has completed an extensive

interior and exterior renovation, transforming an already popular San Rafael gathering spot into a place for any occasion. The menu features classics like gnocchi and carbonara and an ample selection of wine. 3751 Redwood Highway, 415.492.9100, ristorante latoscana.com s $$$ S Í C LD º SHIRO KUMA Japanese Shiro Kuma, which means polar bear, takes its inspiration from chef Yasuo Shigeyoshi’s childhood in a small rural town in the south of Japan and offers traditional-style sushi and wagyu A5 and Kobe beef to cook over ishiyaki grilling stones. Popular weekly specials include hamachi jalapeño and the omakase (chef’s choice) dinner. 1518 Fourth St, 415.295.7464, sushishiro kuma.com b $$ S LD SOL FOOD Puerto Rican Fast becoming a Marin legend, Sol Food whips up traditional Puerto Rican dishes just like the ones owners Sol Hernandez grew up eating. Favorites include the bistec sandwich, mofongo and other fried plantain dishes, but anything tastes good with a dash of the signature hot sauce, also for sale by the bottle (as is the lemon-garlic salad dressing). 901 Lincoln Ave, 415.451.4765, sol foodrestaurant.com $$ S BLD SUSHI TO DAI FOR Japanese Snagging a seat in this popular Fourth Street spot can be a challenge, but patience is rewarded with tasty and fresh sashimi, unique sushi rolls and great

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prices. 816 Fourth St, 415.721.0392, sushi todaifor.net b $$ S LD

100 Yacht Club Drive, 415.524.2773, terrapin crossroads.net s $$ Í C D BR º

years. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelino restaurant.com s $$$ S BLD

TAJ OF MARIN Indian Both North and South Indian cuisine are offered here, with lunch specials and dinners that include goat curry, spinach, lentils and tandoori. 909 Fourth St, 415.459.9555, tajof marin.com b $$ S LD

YET WAH Chinese Named for the founder’s wife (“Yet” refers to the moon, “Wah” to brightness), this beloved mainstay has a traditional Chinese menu and daily dim sum. Expect live music in the Kung Fu Lounge. 1238 Fourth St, 415.460.9883, yetwahsanrafael.com s $$ S Í LD

ARAWAN THAI Thai This Sausalito favorite serves up popular dishes like prawn arawan with yellow curry as well as $10 lunch specials. 47 Caledonia St, 415.729.9395 b $$ LD

TERRAPIN CROSSROADS American This waterfront restaurant and music venue presents fresh food and local talent. The menu offers salads, savory dishes and wood-fired pizzas plus a wide selection of beer, wine and cocktails. Come for the food, stay for the music.

SAUSALITO ANGELINO RESTAURANT Italian Authentic Italian eatery with handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti, showcasing cuisine of the Campania region for more than 20

CIBO California Located in a historic building on Sausalito’s main drag, this is a great place to a sip a quick cup of coffee outdoors. The menu offers tarts, croissants, paninis and soups. Every dish is made from scratch with local products. 1201 Bridgeway, 415.331.2426, cibosausalito.com $$ S Í BL

COPITA Mexican Co-owner Joanne Weir, along with chef Daniel Tellez, presents fresh Mexican fare in the heart of downtown Sausalito. The ever-changing menu is 100 percent glutenfree, and the in-house tequila bar serves over 100 varieties and fantastic cocktails. Dine at the bar or on the outdoor patio for great people-watching. 739 Bridgeway, 415.331.7400, copita restaurant.com s $$ S Í LD BR F3/FAST FOOD FRANCAIS French Owned and operated by the owners of Le Garage, F3 serves brunch, lunch and dinner featuring “Frenchified” American comfort food. A rotating

SAN DOMENICO SCHOOL

menu includes items like the Quack burger (duck confit, black pepper chèvre, lettuce and red onion marmalade). Enjoy with a side of Brussels sprout chips or pommes dauphines (tater tots). 39 Caledonia St, 415.887.9047, eatf3.com s $$ S Í LD BR FISH Seafood The ultimate place for freshly caught fare. Order the fish tacos, ceviche and a bottle of wine and take in the bay views on the open-air deck. Casual; bring cash (lots of it!). 350 Harbor Drive, 415.331.3474, 331fish.com b $$$ S Í LD JOINERY American This waterfront restaurant features craft beer, burgers,

rotisserie chicken and other hearty, seasonal fare in a communal setting, with outdoor seating and great views. 300 Turney St, 415.766.8999, joineryca.com b $$ Í LD KITTI’S PLACE Thai This home-style family restaurant has been in Sausalito 20 years and features favorites like lettuce cups, soft spring rolls and weekly specials. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.331.0390, kittisplace.com b $$ S Í LD LE GARAGE French Escape the tourist crush for an indulgent meal right on the water. The atmosphere is animated with light French music (à la Amélie), and the much-adored

Open Houses December 2 High School

January 12 Grades K-8

Exceptional Education 415.258.1905 andsandomenico.org a Sense of Purpose

Independent, Coed, K-12, Day & Boarding

415.258.1905 sandomenico.org

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Out & About / DINE

• LAVIER CUSINE Mexican Free-range meat and fresh seafood are the focus at this all-organic eatery run by Gabriela and her husband Guillermo, who hails from Yucatán. Try the popular puffy fish tacos with slaw and black beans. Brunch is served on weekends until 2 p.m. 1025 C St, 415.295.7990, lavier latinfusion.com b $$ S LD BR º Signature Salad

croque-monsieur is authentic. Indoor or outdoor seating. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistro sausalito.com b $$$ S Í BLD BR MURRAY CIRCLE American Cavallo Point’s acclaimed restaurant features local seasonal fare by executive chef Justin Everett, with pairings from an extensive wine list and tempting desserts. Stop by Farley Bar for cocktails with a view. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com s $$$ S Í C BLD BR POGGIO Italian Executive chef Benjamin Balesteri creates Northern

Italian fare using fresh and local ingredients. Private dining rooms above the restaurant can accommodate larger parties (10 to 150 guests). 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggio tratoria.com s $$$ S Í C BLD SALITO’S CRAB HOUSE & PRIME RIB Seafood Large decks overlooking the water, with an all-day menu, located in the historic Zack’s by the Bay old spot. Ability to accommodate large parties; parking on site. 1200 Bridgeway, 415.331.3226, salitos crabhouse.com s $$$ S Í C LD º SEAFOOD PEDDLER RESTAURANT AND FISH MARKET Seafood The fish is bought daily

from local fishers, who are also restaurant patrons. Recipes are adjusted to incorporate the freshest catch. 303 Johnson St, 415.332.1492, seafoodpeddler.com s $$$ S Í LD BR º SEAHORSE Italian The spacious dining area, accompanied by a dance floor and stage, make Seahorse ideal for celebrations large and small. Enjoy a modern twist on classic Tuscan coastal cooking while grooving to the nightly live music and entertainment in a historic building. 305 Harbor Drive, 415.331.2899, sausalitoseahorse.com b $$$ Í C LD BR º

SUSHI RAN Japanese Sample innovative small plates just big enough to share before enjoying some of the best sushi the Bay Area has to offer; the prices don’t deter the herd of enthusiasts who line up nightly to partake. Just stopping by? The wine, cocktail and sake lists keep even the pickiest barfly satisfied. Reservations are required in the main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com s $$ Í LD TASTE OF THE HIMALAYAS Himalayan Popular for lunch and dinner, serving authentic food from a faraway region. 2633 Bridgeway, 415.331.1335,

THAITANIC STREET FOOD Thai Sausalito gets a Thai spot from the owners of My Thai in San Rafael and Novato. The nauticalthemed restaurant offers Bangkok street favorites like sriracha wings, pad thai and barbecued meats. 1001 Bridgeway, 415.331.8007, thaitanic streetfood.com $$ S Í LD THE TRIDENT Seafood Set in a turn-of-thecentury building constructed for the San Francisco Yacht Club, this waterfront restaurant is a shoein for date night. The restaurant, a famous 1970s hangout, is now known for supporting local farmers, fishers and organic food producers. 558 Bridgeway, 415.331.3232, the tridentsausalito.com s $$$ S Í LD BR º

TIBURON CAFFE ACRI Italian The well-lit corner cafe in Tiburon is a go-to for bikers, city commuters and locals. Diners will find Italian roast espresso drinks, freshly baked pastries and eggs for breakfast and a selection of soups, salads and paninis for lunch. 1 Main St, 415.435.8515, caffeacri.com b $$ Í BLD DON ANTONIO TRATTORIA Italian Located in Tiburon’s Ark Row, this trattoria serves authentic Italian cuisine in a quaint setting. Traditional selections include chicken piccata, veal

marsala and housemade pesto. 114 Main St, 415.435.0400, don antoniotrattoria.com b $$ D LUNA BLU Italian Executive chef Renzo Azzarello serves Sicilian seafood and homemade pastas with a Californian touch. The seasonal menu incorporates fresh and organic produce, local naturally grown meat and poultry from small farms. The restaurant complies with Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch, so all the seafood is sustainable. In 2014 diners voted Luna Blu one of the Top 100 Neighborhood Gem restaurants in America. 35 Main St, 415.789.5844, lunablurestaurant.com s $$ S Í LD MILANO Italian Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this family-owned neighborhood spot is known for its pasta and friendly service. Favorites like the cheesy garlic bread and pesto keep customers coming back. 1 Blackfield Drive, 415.388.9100, italian restaurantin tiburonca.com s $$ S Í LD NEW MORNING CAFE American Sit outside or in at this casual cafe. On a sunny morning, the place is filled with locals enjoying the sun and extensive breakfast menu; lunch is served as well. Try the fully loaded pancakes or Florentine Benedict with chipotle hollandaise. 1696 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.4315 $$ S Í BL DEBRA TARRANT

sausalitotasteofthe himalayas.com b $$ S LD

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RUSTIC BAKERY California This location of the beloved bakery offers the same menu as the other locations in Novato and Larkspur, as well as outdoor dining. Enjoy a wide array of salads, sandwiches and pastries. 1550 Tiburon Blvd, 415.797.6123, rustic bakery.com b $$ S Í BLD BR SALT & PEPPER American With its hardwood floors and blue-checkered tablecloths, the sun-filled one-room restaurant is an area favorite. Scallops, rib-eye steak, a beef burger and traditional crab cakes with jalapeño dipping sauce are some of the popular choices. 38 Main St, 415.435.3594 b $$ S Í LD

SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE American The menu at this seaside institution features local organic produce and sustainably sourced meats and fish. Chef Robert Taylor, formerly of Farallon, has curated an oyster list for the raw bar menu and a fresh cocktail list to boot. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR º SERVINO RISTORANTE Italian Chef and owner Angelo Servino highlights organic ingredients in an array of rustic Italian dishes, including house-made pastas, wood oven pizzas, and seasonal specialties. Located on the bay in Tiburon, Servino also prides itself on its extensive sustainable seafood

program. Savor la dolce vita on the waterfront patio. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR º

WEST MARIN NICK’S COVE American This coastal escape is now famous for barbecued local oysters, Dungeness crab mac ’n’ cheese and cocktails incorporating homegrown ingredients. Large windows in the 120seat restaurant provide picturesque views of Tomales Bay and Hog Island (Marshall). 23240 Highway 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR

RANCHO NICASIO American Known for live music and an extensive menu featuring everything from crispy calamari to braised lamb shanks, Rancho Nicasio is open seven days a week. Be sure to stop in for happy hour, 4 to 6 p.m. (Nicasio). 1 Old Rancheria Road, 415.662.2219, rancho nicasio.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR º STATION HOUSE CAFE American Fresh local homegrown foods are showcased for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Stop in on weekends (5 p.m. on Sundays) for live music and wine, beer and cocktails (Point Reyes Station). 11180 Highway 1, 415.663.1515, station housecafe.com s $$ S Í C BLD BR º

SAN FRANCISCO /EAST BAY BUN MEE Vietnamese A fun and casual lunch spot that puts a flavorful twist on classic Vietnamese. Sit back in this playful space with a salad, bowl or sandwich and enjoy the stylish San Francisco vibes. 2015 Fillmore St, 415.800.7696, bunmee.com b $$ S Í LD º CLIFF HOUSE California Great food, beautiful view and lots of history — what else could you want? An award-winning wine list? They have that too. Besides the popular Sunday buffet brunch, Cliff ouse features local, organic, sustainable ingredients and

seafood on its everyday menu. 1090 Point Lobos, 415.386.3330, cliffhouse.com s $$ S BLD COMMONWEALTH American This progressive American restaurant is touted as one of the most creative dining experiences in the Bay Area. Chef Jason Fox’s concepts are always evolving, and he aims to give guests something they don’t expect, taking a common ingredient and changing it to give the dish an element of surprise that’s rooted in familiarity. 2224 Mission St, 415.355.1500, common wealthsf.com b $$$ D

50th ANNUAL • • • • • • • • MARIN’S PREMIER ART MARKET

OVER Participating

SAUSALITO

100 Artists NOV 30 & DEC 1-2

OPE N 11AM-6PM w w w. icba rtists. com

• FREE ADMISSION • FREE PARKING 480 Gate 5 Road, Sausalito, CA

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ESPETUS CHURRASCARIA Brazilian This steakhouse boasts a tasting menu of 14 meat courses grilled with the traditional Brazilian method. Patrons control the pace of the prix fixe experience with colored signal cards. 1686 Market St, 415.552.8792, espetus.com s $$$ S C LD MERSEA American Executive chef and cofounder, Parke Ulrich — formerly of Lark

Creek Inn, Epic Steak and Waterbar — started this exciting venture on Treasure Island. Mersea, which means “island oasis” in Old English, serves standard American comfort food like burgers, fish and chips and the like with a local-focused Bay Area twist. Also not to be missed are the curated cocktail menu and unbeatable views (Treasure Island). 699 Avenue of the Palms, 714.350.3889, mersea.restaurant s $$ S Í BLD

MICHAEL MINA California Michael Mina has clearly mastered the fine line between award-winning art and Alaskan halibut. Each brilliantly crafted dish has a delicate blend of flavors that add up to a distinctive, luxurious dining experience. 252 California St, 415.397.9222, michaelmina.net s $$$ LD

KEY TO SYMBOLS s b $ $$ $$$ S

Full bar Wine and beer Inexpensive (entrees $10 or less) Moderate (up to $20) Expensive ($20 and over) Kid-friendly

Í C BLD BR º

Outdoor seating Private party room Breakfast, lunch, dinner Brunch Happy hour

These listings are not intended to be a full review of the business, rather a quick guide to some of the most popular restaurants in the county. For more restaurant listings, visit us online at marinmagazine.com/dine.

P R O M OT I O N

On the Sausalito harbor, the Seafood Peddler is a fi e-time winner of the Pacific Sun’s Best of Marin and the Marin IJ’s 2017 Best Happy Hour in Marin.

Consistently voted “Best of Marin,” Comforts offers fine city and home-style food. Our menus change frequently to refle t what is fresh, local and in season. We offer breakfast, lunch, weekend brunch, as well as take-out and catering services. The holidays are around the corner - let Comforts provide you with an easy and delicious holiday feast! For more information, contact Comforts Catering.

SEAFOOD PEDDLER

COMFORTS

303 Johnson Street, Sausalito, CA 415.332.1492 seafoodpeddler.com

335 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, CA 415.454.9840 comfortscafe.com

bar and grill

RangeCafe Bar and Grill, located on the course at Peacock Gap Golf Club, offers a delicious array of dining options. Enjoy weekend brunch and seasonal specials or stop in for Happy Hour drinks and appetizers. All our dishes are prepared fresh and sourced from local ingredients.

CAN’T FIND WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR? Visit us online at marinmagazine.com/dine

RANGECAFE

333 Biscayne Drive, San Rafael, CA 415.454.6450 rangecafe.net

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FLAVOR / Out & About

Holiday Cake

Make it easy by going naked and using a box.

A KING THE STRESS out of the

holidays by baking a homemade cake sounds counterintuitive, right? Not according to Michelle Heston, a busy PR director. To reduce the stress of her work life, Michelle bakes and decorates cakes. Her specialty is a naked cake. “A naked cake is a cake in which you can see through the frosting to the sides of the cake,” she explains. “You can truly taste the cake, with just a hint of frosting. They are slightly indulgent, slightly naughty and always delicious.” To make one, she doesn’t shy away from boxed cake mix and you shouldn’t either. “There are all kinds of tricks for taking a boxed cake from blah to wow,” she says. “Add a couple extra eggs, sub milk for water (or better yet, half milk, half Kahlua or brandy), use melted butter instead of vegetable oil and add an extra teaspoon of vanilla (or almond) extract.” For more of her tips and a recipe, go online to marinmagazine.com/fl vor.

RECIPE

Warm Spiced (and Spiked) Red Wine

Gløgg, glüwein, mulled wine — the names and languages may be different, but not the brew. Hot and steamy, heady with spice, and boosted with spirits, warm spiced wine is the winter season’s response to the cold and darkness. This made-from-scratch recipe avoids the cloying sweetness often found with mixes and is remarkably easy to prepare — just be sure that the mixture does not come to a boil, lest all of its fortification will evaporate. If this doesn’t get you fired up for the holiday season, then we’re not sure what will.

Servino Ristorante Celebrating four decades of service in downtown Tiburon.

MM: When did Servino Ristorante open and what is its Italian origin? Kathryn Servino: My husband Angelo and I bought Enrico’s on Ark Row in 1978. Angelo is from Acri, Italy, which is in Calabria. We have been the owners here for the entire 40 years. Our sons, Natale, 38, and Vittorio, 28, both work in the restaurant today. MM: What is your most popular all-time dish? KS: Pollo al forno has been on the menu since we opened and is still very popular. MM: How has the menu evolved over the decades? KS: The menu has become smaller over time, with more focus on seasonal organic products and supporting Marin purveyors. We also make all of our fresh pasta in house. MM: What was your most popular dish 40 years ago, and what is the most popular today? KS: When we first opened, our most popular dish was veal piccata. Today, our most popular dish is housemade pappardelle with braised beef tenderloin. MM: How many pounds of tomatoes have you used in 40 years? KS: We have used 344,000 pounds of San Marzano tomatoes imported from Italy.

SERVES 8 TO 10 For the garnish 1 cup raisins L cup Cointreau or Grand Marnier K cup whole almonds (optional) For the gløgg 1K cups port wine 1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice K cup Cointreau or Grand Marnier L cup light brown sugar Zest of 2 untreated or organic oranges, shaved in strips with a vegetable peeler 10 cloves 2 cinnamon sticks 2 bottles full-bodied red wine Fresh orange slices as garnish

Prepare the garnish Combine the raisins and Cointreau or Grand Marnier in a small bowl. Let stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours. (The raisins may be prepared up to one week in advance; cover and refrigerate until use.) Toast the almonds in a dry skillet on the stove. Remove from the heat and coarsely chop into large pieces. Prepare the gløgg Combine all of the gløgg ingredients, except the 2 bottles of red wine, in a heavy large pot with a lid. Bring to a boil, then reduce

heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until the liquid reduces to about 2 cups, about 12 to 15 minutes. Add the red wine, cover the pot, and reduce the heat to low. Heat the gløgg without letting it come to a boil (lest the spirits evaporate). To serve Add a spoonful each of raisins and almonds, if using, to each glass or mug. Strain the gløgg into each glass. Garnish with fresh orange slices and serve warm with a spoon for scooping up the raisins and almonds.

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On the Scene

S N A P S H OT S F R O M S P EC I A L E V E N T S I N M A R I N A N D S A N F R A N C I S CO

E D I T E D B Y DA N I E L J E W E T T

Jacqueline Spielberg, Mary Denton and Cynthia Gregory

Warren Lanier, Byrd Baldwin, Joel Bakamis and Jim Baldwin

Joe Renolds, Samantha Myrick and Sara and Robert Kuhs

• REACH FOR THE STARS GALA Side by Side (formerly Sunny Hills Services) raised close to $200,000 at its September 22 speakeasy-themed gala held at a Dominican private estate.

Kathryn Kleinman, Michelle Schmitt and Michael Schwab

• MICHELLE SCHMITT BIRTHDAY BENEFIT The singer wowed the audience at the Throckmorton Theatre September 13 at her 60th birthday show benefiting Little Wishes.

Steve Bajor, Jeffrey Beauchamp, Tom Killion, Lissa Herschleb and Lisa Palter

MO DELONG (REACH FOR THE STARS)

• MILL VALLEY FALL ARTS FESTIVAL More than 8,000 art lovers attended the 62nd annual festival at Old Mill Park in Mill Valley on September 15.

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Kathleen Hallin and Loring Casartelli

Fabia and Geoffrey Butler

Yvonne Roberts, Peter Rubens, Elvin Bishop, Joe O’Hehir and Serena D’Arcy-Fisher

• WHISTESTOCK For the fifth year, more than 400 attendees enjoyed an evening of exciting live music at Fairground Island, all benefiting Whistlestop.

MO DELONG

• A NIGHT AT THE COVE Guests were treated to small bites, drinks, live music and a sneak peek at the new residences at the Cove at Tiburon on September 14.

Scott and Tjasa Kalmbach

Joe and Juline Paulino, Marc Hershon and Anne and Mark Gustafson

TO SEE MORE EVENT PHOTOS VISIT MARINMAGAZINE.COM/HOTTICKET M A R I N D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 8 113

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Marin Matters LO C A L PEO PL E M A K I N G A D I F F E R E N CE

Be Present

GIVE BACK

Truly being there for family and friends this holiday season could be the best gift of all. SUSAN NOYES

’T

IS THE SEA SON for giving, which likely means you have a long, long to-do list. So many traditions to keep, presents to buy, friends to see, parties to attend, decorations to put up, sweets to make, travels to plan and other holiday demands. The giving season can quickly exhaust and overwhelm. In fact, the holidays can be downright brutal for anyone struggling with depression, grief or other emotional stress. So it’s vital to pay special attention to loved ones and take note of any signs that all is not well. This month’s feature story on the latest findings about suicide makes the need for doing that very clear. We hope you find our gift guide, giving guide and other recommendations helpful for alleviating some seasonal stress. There are many ways to navigate the giving season, and one rewarding approach is this: give first to the neediest, and schedule time with the ones you hold most dear. Wouldn’t you like more love, less stuff? Unless they are children, excited by the anticipation of surprises from Santa, your loved ones likely feel the same way. They will shine brighter as you pause to spend quality time with them instead of spending lots of time elsewhere purchasing piles of presents. I learned about giving to those who need it most through my own experience. By the time my kids reached their teens, I could summon no enthusiasm for holiday shopping. So I went shopping for the homeless instead. Purchasing new coats, hats and mittens and delivering them to homeless shelters with my family on Christmas Eve substantially

improved my holiday mood every year and became a cherished family tradition. Creating space in a packed holiday schedule helped too — giving us more time to just be and be together. More laughter usually ensued as well. What are your favorite holiday memories? We’ll bet they also have more to do with people and unexpected laughter than with perfectly planned and executed activities. For some reason, my favorites revolve around my children and fire. Feeding fires in a fireplace. Playing with candles and a few fire-related accidents. One of my kids lit the minister’s program on fire during the “Silent Night” hymn candle-lighting at a Christmas Eve beach service. He came perilously close to igniting the minister too. After delivering winter outerwear to the homeless, I always feel better about sitting my family down to a spectacularly decorated table for a formal Christmas Eve dinner. One year, I forgot to put the ceramic fondue pots in their metal casings. Soon after I placed them above the direct flames, they exploded — spewing melted cheese over the table and my dressed-up family. Our gasps quickly turned to giggles as we sopped the cheese right off he table with our bread cubes. We hope that your to-do list doesn’t eclipse your ability to pause and be present and that you can give the gift of your loving presence to the ones you hold most dear. I’m always in search of new inspiration to navigate the holidays. If you have favorite ideas for activities, please share them. And please know, your attention is a great gift to me.

Susan B. Noyes is the founder and chief visionary officer of Make It Better Media Group, as well as the founder of Make It Better Foundation’s Philanthropy Awards. A mother of six, former Sidley Austin labor lawyer and U.S. Congressional aide, passionate philanthropist and intuitive connector, she has served on the boards of the Poetry Foundation, Harvard University Graduate School of Education Visiting Committee, American Red Cross, Lurie Children’s Hospital, Annenberg Challenge, Chicago Public Education Fund, Lyric Opera of Chicago, Chicago Symphony Orchestra, New Trier High School District 203 and her beloved Kenilworth Union Church. Most of all, she enjoys serving others, creating virtuous circles that amplify social impact for all.

DONNA GLASS

• Nearly 33 percent of Bay Area millennials still live with their parents due to income issues. Marin-based nonprofit Launch has a jumpstart program offering guidance on resumes, job search, pay negotiation, apparel and workplace etiquette along with plenty of moral support geared to helping young people become gainfully employed. launch.five4five.org • Find a place for that gently used extra set of dishes by signing up as a donor with Bay Area–based Grateful Gatherings, a volunteer nonprofit that collects much-needed items for local families recovering from homelessness. gratefulgatherings.org • As the only service of its kind in Sonoma County, The Living Room is a safe haven for at-risk and homeless women and their children during the day, when the shelters are closed — offering a place to relax, eat breakfast and lunch and learn new skills. thelivingroomsc.org • Adopt a Family of Marin’s annual holiday giving program pairs donors with Marin families in need. The families put together a wish list, and the donors purchase and wrap items on the list. For many, this program is the sole source of holiday gifts and food. adoptafamily.org • Marin real estate agent Nick Cooper founded Home for a Home, a nonprofit that solicits volunteers from the Bay Area real estate community to construct housing for families in third world countries. Currently the organization is helping to build homes in Guatemala. homeforahome.org • Change the life of a child by participating in a surgical mission trip. The Northern California chapter of Healing the Children is looking for medically trained volunteers to travel to Peru in April 2019; the team will perform free procedures to remedy cleft palates and other maladies. htcnorcal.org • Support Hospice by the Bay as a volunteer for its annual Holiday Gift Wrap fundraiser, happening through Christmas Eve at Town Center and Book Passage in Corte Madera. hospicebythebay.org

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Tisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the season to sparkle

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BETTER LETTER THE BEST OF MARIN DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX marinmagazine.com/The-Magazine/Newsletters

Lynn Callender, music educator, Marin Symphony Board Director, arts education leader, and choral performer who has sung across Europe, in Rome for the Pope, and at Carnegie Hall. Tam Resident since 2010.

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Lotte & Sarah Leading the Luxury Experience in Marin County From Bolinas to Belvedere and everywhere in between, Lotte & Sarah have helped their clients achieve record sales prices throughout Marin County including last year’s $10.4 million sale in Bolinas. Lotte & Sarah represented their clients in nearly $72 million in transactions last year — ranked in the Top 10 Marin Agents in Marin County by BAREIS MLS — in addition to being recognized as McGuire’s #1 Team in Marin County for 2017. The secret to their clients’ success? Their sophisticated and savvy approach to marketing and negotiations.

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Marin Home FRO M TO U R S A N D M A K EOV E R S TO D ECO R AT IV E D E TA I L S A N D R E A LTO R I N S I G H T S

White shiplap siding and new landscaping modernize the front.

WALK THIS WAY

A family leaves the hills behind for a more level Larkspur house, an easy stroll to town. BY DAWN MARGOLIS DENBERG PHOTOS BY LIZ DALY

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Marin Home / BACKSTORY

LEX A ND JEFF Jennings weren’t particularly motivated to sell their home in the hills above Larkspur. But they left town for an extended summer holiday and agreed to allow their realtor to put out feelers to potential buyers. “Our feeling was if someone makes us an offer we can’t refuse, we’re willing to move,” says Jeff. The proverbial careful-what-you-wish-for happened. Their realtor brought them an offer that exceeded expectation. But it came with one major caveat: “We had to be out of the house in 17 days,” Alex says. Alex and Jeff ccepted the offer and scrambled to pack up the house and prepare their children, all while looking for permanent digs. Topping their wish list: “We wanted a flat yard and a house that was walking distance to town,” says Jeff. Finding something in turnkey condition was not a priority: “We were definitely willing to take on a project,” Alex says. When a three-bedroom, two-and-a halfbath home with an in-law unit above the

garage became available in Larkspur, they knew it was the one. It came with “a flat yard, close to town, and a remodeling plan that wouldn’t require us to move out,” Alex says. While the home was in reasonably good shape, a few things called for immediate attention. “The bathrooms were awful,” Alex recalls. “And it had those old popcorn ceilings.” So these details, along with a new fireplace surround, got updated before the family moved in. Phase two, reinventing the outdoor space, began right after. Excavating and re-landscaping took time, patience and a lot of heavy machinery — “the ground had been covered in this thick, uneven concrete,” says Jeff — ut the results were worth it. The new yard has an expansive artificial grass play area, a porcelain tile patio and a cumaru wood deck, plus a small outdoor kitchen with a built-in grill, refrigerator and quartz countertops. The most dramatic transformation came later. A full year after move-in, Alex and Jeff eamed with Pacific Design Group in

Larkspur, who helped develop plans for a new open-concept kitchen and a double-height foyer with a tiny bump-out to add space for a powder room. While the new kitchen is still compact, it’s now exponentially more functional and brimming with quality finishes, including custom inset cabinets, Water Works plumbing fixtures and ultra-premium appliances by Gaggenau. New furnishings enhanced the makeover: a kitchen table, counter stools and dining room table from Room and Board; kitchen chairs form Roche Bobois; and rugs from Stark Carpet. The home’s facade also got a facelift. Changes include replacing the old shingle siding with white shiplap and adding sleek garage doors to a dated-looking carport. All-new front landscaping by Erin Werner Design in Kentfield anchors the look. “Improving the home’s curb appeal was a central part of our design plan,” Alex says. “We absolutely love it here,” she adds. “And being able to walk to town and back has been wonderful.” m

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Opposite: A porcelain tile patio makes a great place for outdoor gatherings. This page, clockwise from left: An openconcept kitchen with all the bells and whistles; the meticulously furnished living room opens onto a grassy courtyard; the Jennings family; plenty of counter space in this serene master bath.

THE DETAILS WHERE THEY PURCHASED The Baltimore Park neighborhood of Larkspur WHAT THEY BOUGHT 3-bedroom, 2.5bath home with above-garage in-law unit LISTING AGENTS Tina McArthur and Victoria Love of Pacific Union SELLING AGENT Whitney Potter of Pacifi Union THE STATS Price per square foot for similar homes in the neighborhood: $1,100

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Marin Home / GARDEN FARM APPROVED Nearly 90 percent of Marin’s food scraps and yard trimmings go to Redwood Landfill’s WM EarthCare of Marin composting facility in Novato. This state-of-the-art facility produces compost approved for organic farming. KITCHEN CAN Designate a kitchen food compost container, available online or at home improvement stores, or use a dishwasher-safe bowl for this purpose. Boon Supply in Mill Valley sells compost bins and donates $14 to the charity of your choice for each one sold. POST IT List acceptable food scraps near the container or post on the fridge for a quick reminder. LINER NOTES To prevent leaks and minimize odors, line your container with brown paper bags or newspaper, which can be tossed into the green can as well. CURB YOUR ENTHUSIASM Dump your container’s contents into your outdoor organics can daily, to avoid smells and household pests, and remember to bring your can out to the curb every week. WHAT’S REFUSED? Marin County has several major refuse service providers; ask yours what items are acceptable as compost. For a complete list of what can and can’t go in the Waste Management curbside can, plus other helpful info, visit redwoodlandfill.wm.com/compost/index.jsp.

Boon Supply

A Scrappy Idea Composting food and waste helps farmers and the environment.

THE YES LIST Fruits and vegetables (skins, seeds and pits), seafood bones and shells, grains, bread, eggshells, dairy (cheese, butter and yogurt), meat and bones and congealed grease (in a paper container), paper napkins, paper towels, uncoated paper plates (no surface sheen), greasy pizza boxes, coffee grounds and filters, paper tea bags, paper bags, newspaper, shredded bills, yard trimmings and untreated wood are all good to go.

BY KIER HOLMES

While we know it’s beneficial to eat organic and important to shop local and bring our own bags, we don’t always know what should go in our curbside waste bins. Turns out, nearly six million tons of food is sent to landfills yearly in California. And organic material, decomposing in landfills alongside tons of garbage, produces methane, one of the most environmentally destructive greenhouse gases. So what’s the best way to handle food scraps and green waste at home? Here are composting tips to clarify this sometimes puzzling issue and get you on a cleaner, greener path.

THE NO LIST Just because a label says a product is “compostable” or “biodegradable” doesn’t mean it is. If the item is not recognized by the U.S. Department of Agriculture as compost suitable for organic farming, then keep it out of your can. That includes corn-, sugar- or potato-based utensils and containers and some so-called compostable or biodegradable bags; paper cups (99 percent have plasticized liners), envelopes with plastic windows, diapers, pet waste, treated wood, plywood, painted or stained wood, rocks and dirt.

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UNMATCHED EXPERTISE THE EXPERIENCE IS ALAIN PINEL

Real estate that is as smart as you are. You rely on smart technology to provide for a wonderful home life, so why not demand your real estate agent does too when it comes to marketing your home? When your real estate moment comes, Alain Pinel is prepared to support you with unmatched digital marketing, insider access, and an integrated use of smart technology to ensure your listing gets in front of the right eyes.

APR.COM Over 30 Real Estate Offices Serving The Bay Area Including 4 Offices in Marin County 415.755.1111

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THE ADDRESS IS MARIN THE EXPERIENCE IS ALAIN PINEL

BELVEDERE $4,400,000

BOLINAS $2,850,000

SAN AMSELMO $2,195,000

8 West Shore Road | 4bd/4.5ba H. Carter/C. DeRouen | 415.730.9445 License # 00838242 | 01048431 8WestShore.com

368-370 Overlook Drive | 5bd/4.5ba Beth Brody | 415.987.2384 License # 00657511 370overlook.com

61 Sais Avenue | 5bd/4ba Jonathan Marks | 415.307.0505 License # 01447489 SanAnselmoFamilyHome.com

SAN RAFAEL $2,100,000

SAUSALITO $1,795,000

NOVATO $1,399,000

7 Leona Drive | 4bd/4.5ba Sara Hauter | 415.860.3904 License # 00928727 7Leona.com

52 Buckelew Street | 5bd/3.5ba Beth Brody | 415.987.2384 License # 00657511 52Buckelew.com

5 Savanna Court | 4bd/3ba Wayka Bartolacelli | 415.860.4687 License # 00924665 5Savanna.com

SAN RAFAEL $1,255,000

SAN RAFAEL $899,000

NOVATO $799,000

206 Deepstone Drive | 4bd/3ba Jonathan Marks | 415.307.0505 License # 01447489 MarksRealtyGroup.com

1947 Las Gallinas Avenue | 3bd/2ba Holly Barker Lee | 415.987.7116 License # 01426759 HLee.apr.com

720 Sunset Parkway | 4bd/2ba Carolyn Lenert | 415.250.2393 License # 01313155 CLenert.apr.com

APR.COM

Over 30 Real Estate Offices Serving The Bay Area Including 5 Offices in Marin County 415.755.1111

O In

Square footage, acreage, and other information herein, has been received from one or more of a variety of different sources. Such information has not been verified by Alain Pinel RealtorsÂ®. If important to buyers, buyers should conduct their own investigation.

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THE ADDRESS IS THE WORLD THE EXPERIENCE IS ALAIN PINEL

VANCOUVER, CANADA

MONTREAL, CANADA

SCARBOROUGH, SOUTH AFRICA

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: TSDD $6,024,464 USD

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: XRWC $1,907,492 USD

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: NDIB $645,125 USD

AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND

CHIVA, SPAIN

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: IHCW PRICE UPON REQUEST

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: ORBE PRICE UPON REQUEST

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: PJRD PRICE UPON REQUEST

RHODE-SAINT-GENÃ&#x2C6;SE, BELGIUM

VERBIER, SWITZERLAND

ZURICH, SWITZERLAND

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: ROAB PRICE UPON REQUEST

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: ZFCC PRICE UPON REQUEST

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: ELXV PRICE UPON REQUEST

APR.COM Over 30 Real Estate Offices Serving The Bay Area Including 5 Offices in Marin County 415.755.1111

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BURLINGAME

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GREENBRAE

NOE VALLEY

PACIFIC HEIGHTS

POTRERO HILL

UPPER MARKET

WEST PORTAL

10/26/18 12:43 PM

Redefining Marin Luxury $2.3

Billion in annual sales volume.

Years selling San Francisco Real Estate.

50+

Offices in convenient Charities and other locations throughout local non-profits the Bay Area. supported each year.

#1 Independent Brand in San Francisco & fastest growing in Marin.

Sycamore Park Perfection

Designer Masterpiece in Larkspur

175 Elm Ave, Mill Valley Sold: $3,850,000

1 Lark Ct, Larkspur Offered at $3,398,000

Meticulously Remodeled and Expanded

Selling the Greenbrae Lifestyle

150 Via la Paz, Greenbrae Offered at $2,795,000

393 Los Cerros, Greenbrae Sold: $2,450,000

415.496.2600 â&#x20AC;˘ 300 Bon Air Center, Suite 100, Greenbrae â&#x20AC;˘ ZephyrRE.com

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PRESENTING

E L E VAT E D LU XU RY. LISTED BY VANGUARD PROPERTIES

WOLFBACK RIDGE ROAD

665 GOODHILL ROAD

283 SUMMIT AVENUE

80 BAYVIEW AVENUE

SAUSALITO | $10,000,000

KENTFIELD | $9,995,000

SAN RAFAEL | $4,850,000

BELVEDERE | $3,195,000

ALLISON SALZER 415.297.2110

CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881 JEFF MOSELEY 415.602.7272

CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881

NICOLE KLIONSKY 415.577.0950

1857 MAR WEST STREET

19 HEATHER WAY

2 CORONET WAY

700 BOLINAS ROAD

TIBURON | $3,150,000

MILL VALLEY | $2,795,000

KENTFIELD | $2,725,000

FAIRFAX | $2,249,000

KAREN Z. HARDESTY 415.265.3344

CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881

BITSA FREEMAN 415.385.8929

CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881

51 GOLD HILL GRADE

45 DE SILVA ISLAND

SAN RAFAEL | $2,O95,000 CHRISTINE CHRISTIANSEN 415.259.7133 CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881

20 ROSEWOOD COURT

11 CHERRY HILL DRIVE

MILL VALLEY | $1,995,000

SAN RAFAEL | $1,295,000

SAN RAFAEL | $1,195,000

LORI SAIA ODISIO 415.747.6707

HOWARD WYNN 415.828.9966

CHRISTINE CHRISTIANSEN 415.259.7133 LORI SAIA ODISIO 415.747.6707

MARIN OFFICES 352 Miller Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 94941 | 1118 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur, CA 94939 DRE# 01486075 | vanguardproperties.com

S A N

F R A N C I S C O

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M A R I N

W I N E

C O U N T R Y

10/29/18 5:46 PM 10/30/18 10:38 AM

JUST LISTED

3 B E DRO O M 4 B AT H

1857 MAR WEST STREET

This architecturally stunning home sits above Old Town Tiburon and provides a

TIBURON, CA

| O FFE RE D AT $ 3,1 5 0,0 0 0

magical setting for a perfect lifestyle. The spacious and light-filled living room features breathtaking views, hardwood floors, a wood-burning fireplace, custom bookcase, and a wrap-around view deck. The open chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen has granite and stainless appointments and just outside is a custom Viking outdoor kitchen. A grand master suite boasts views over lush gardens to the City skyline, a private deck, wood-burning fireplace, and a luxurious marble bathroom. Custom-designed

gardens

and

landscaping

without obstructing the extraordinary views.

provide

sense

privacy

www.1857MarWest.com

Karen Z. Hardesty | 415.265.3344 kzhardesty@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 00684137

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665 GOODHILL ROAD KENTFIELD, CA

6 B E DRO O M 9 B AT H

| O FFE RE D AT $ 9, 9 95 ,00 0

Located in the exclusive Kent Woodlands enclave, this magnificent Tuscaninspired villa is situated to take advantage of uninterrupted Marin views. This extraordinary

home

features

living

room,

with

wood-burning

fireplace,

cathedral wood ceiling and a wall of windows; a gracious dining room that opens directly to the surrounding terrace; and a chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen with a sizable center island. The master suite feels like its own private retreat with an appealing fireplace and outdoor spa, steps away through large sliding glass doors. The exceptional backyard showcases the remarkable scenery and features an infinity pool, dining pergola, and outdoor fireplace. www.665Goodhill.com

Chelsea E. Ialeggio | 415.300.6881 chelsea@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01394011

Jeff Moseley | 415.602.7272 jeff@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01193925

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JUST LISTED

3 B E DRO O M 4 B AT H + O FFICE | O FFE RE D AT $1,695,0 0 0

90 FA IR DRIVE

This custom Cal Green Designed Home features two ensuite bedrooms and

SAN RAFAEL, CA

a gracious master suite, great room with soaring ceilings, welcoming gourmet kitchen with island seating, private office, main level powder room, full laundry room and oversized two car garage.

www.90Fair.com

JUST SOLD: 351 Laverne Avenue, Mill Valley | Sold 8% over asking - $1,780,000 395 Pinewood Drive, San Rafael | Sold 18% over asking - $1,100,630 COMING SOON: 86 Fair Drive, S a n R a f a e l | Cobblestone Dr, San Rafael

Jennifer Bowman | 415.717.8950 jennifer.thebowmangroup@gmail.com DRE# 01933147

LEGACY MARIN REAL ESTATE |

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BowmanRealEstateGroup.com @THEBOWMANGROUP Providing Marin families more of what they want

10/30/18 10:38 AM

24 OW L R I D G E CO U RT | N OVATO MustSeeStoneTree.com

3 1 R O B E RTS AV E N U E | SA N R A FA E L MustSeeSanRafael.com

51 GOLD HILL GRADE | SA N R A FA E L

1 1 C H E R RY H I L L R OA D | SA N R A FA E L

DominicanCapeCod.com Co-listed with Chelsea E. Ialeggio

MontMarinBeauty.com

Co-listed with Lori Saia Odisio

For information regarding these homes visit ChristineChristiansen.com or call 415.259.7133

AC T IV E L IST IN GS BY Christine Christiansen, MBA 415.259.7133 christine@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01393098

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YEAR-END

MOVE-IN OPPORTUNITIES

a GOOD blend Of SOnOMa LIvInG Stylish residences inspired by Sonoma living and sustainability. Two new communities. One Santa Rosa way of life.

Single-Family Residences | Quick Move-In Opportunities | NewHomesSantaRosa.com FOX HOLLOW

RESERVE

1,568 to 2,485 Sq. Ft. Up to 5 Bedrooms & 3 Baths From the Mid $500,000s (707) 210-4926

2,570 to 2,910 Sq. Ft. Up to 6 Bedrooms & 4 Baths From the Mid $700,000s (707) 321-5630

All renderings, floor plans, and maps are concepts and are not intended to be an actual depiction of the buildings, fencing, walkways, driveways or landscaping. Walls, windows, porches and decks vary per elevation and lot location. In a continuing effort to meet consumer expectations, City Ventures reserves the right to modify prices, floor plans, specifications, options and amenities without notice or obligation. Square footages shown are approximate. Broker/agent must accompany and register their client(s) with the onsite sales team on their first visit to the community in order to be eligible for any broker referral fee. Please see your Sales Manager for details. ÂŠ2018 City Ventures. All rights reserved. BRE LIC # 01979736.

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1885 Mountain View, Tiburon 4 Bed 4.5 Bath $12,495,000

117 Laurel Grove, Ross 6 Bed 5 Full & 2 Half Bath

• East coast inspired luxury estate with world class views of San Francisco, Golden Gate Bridge, Angel Island, Sausalito to Mt. Tamalpais • Gym, billiard room, wine cellar • Main level master suite with spectacular views • Extraordinary grounds with pool and spa, sprawling level lawn, multiple entertainment areas and expansive terraces • Gated entrance • Close to downtown Tiburon & ferry

• This legacy estate is located in the heart of Ross on 1.3+/- acres • Detached private guest house with bath • Built with exquisite design, offering traditional detailing and a fabulous floorplan • A rare combination of privacy and serenity with stunning views of Mount Tamalpais • Close proximity to downtown Ross • Expansive entertainment terraces, mature landscaping, inviting pool & lush rolling lawns

1885MountainView.com

117LaurelGrove.com

115 Great Circle, Mill Valley 4 Bed 4 Full & 2 Half Bath

5 Gilmartin Court, Tiburon 4 Bed 3 Full & 2 Half Bath

$3,895,000

• The front entry leads you to the dramatic living room with soaring ceilings, ample natural light, wood burning fireplace, distressed hardwood flooring and picturesque bay and Sausalito views, all opening out to the sunny yard • The expansive great room, with kitchen, family room and casual dining area has a fantastic indoor/outdoor flow • Spectacular setting offering manicured grounds, terraces and lush level lawn

115GreatCircle.com

$7,995,000

• Spectacular waterfront residence situated on the sought after ‘flats’ of Belvedere • The front entry opens to a dramatic great room with random plank hardwood flooring, offering a fabulous living room, dining room, kitchen and office/den • The inviting living room offers volume ceilings, a wood burning fireplace and opens to a generous sized dining room for easy entertaining • The ultimate in indoor/outdoor living with multiple patios, an entertainment deck, lush level lawn, and private dock

312SanRafaelAve.com

$4,500,000

• Nestled in an exclusive enclave of Tiburon’s finest estates • Breathtaking views spanning San Rafael, the Golden Gate bridge, Sausalito, Belvedere Island and Mt. Tam • Dramatic entry showcases an open floor plan, volume ceilings & picturesque view windows • Main level master-suite with private terrace • Formal living room features soaring ceilings, a fireplace & opens to a view terrace • Beautifully designed lower level recreation room opens to the pool and spa

5GilmartinCourt.com

312 San Rafael Avenue, Belvedere 3 Bed 3 Bath $4,100,000

36 Golden Gate Avenue, Belvedere 4 Bed + Library 2.5 Bath $3,250,000 • East Coast inspired residence offers library/den • The main living spaces are designed to highlight the sweeping views spanning the Belvedere Lagoon, the sprawling Tiburon hills, and Angel Island. • Beautiful hardwood flooring extends through all the main living areas • The spectacular kitchen offers style and functionality with adjacent family room opening to an inviting deck, private patio and level yard • All four bedrooms are located on the same level of the residence • Detached two car garage

36GoldenGate.com

Shana Rohde-Lynch Broker Associate 415.789.9999 shana@pacunion.com go2marin.com DRE 01079806 Compass is the brand name used for services provided by one or more of the Compass group of subsidiary companies. Compass is a real estate broker licensed by the State of California and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. License Number 01866771. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only and is compiled from sources deemed reliable but has not been verified. Changes in price, condition, sale or withdrawal may be made without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footage are approximate.

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The Wright-Mulligan Team LUXURY PROPERTY SPECIALISTS

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$60M

IN SALES YTD

TOP 1% IN MARIN

$450M

IN REAL ESTATE SOLD

Thank you for an amazing year! Radhi Ahern & Scott Kalmbach 415.879.8311 team@ahern-kalmbach.com ahern-kalmbach.com DRE 01411471 / 01795204

Like life, the real estate market is constantly in ďŹ&#x201A;ux and ever evolving. We are so thankful for the one true constant in our lives, the commitment and connection with our clients, colleagues, friends and family. Your support is our inspiration.

Compass is the brand name used for services provided by one or more of the Compass group of subsidiary companies. Compass is a real estate broker licensed by the State of California and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. License Number 01866771. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only and is compiled from sources deemed reliable but has not been veriďŹ ed. Changes in price, condition, sale or withdrawal may be made without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footage are approximate.

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Recent Sales

Contingent Sales

35 Calle del Ribera, Stinson Beach . . . . . . . $1,400,000 7 Francisco Patio, Stinson Beach. . . . . . . . . $1,450,000 175 Buena Vista, Stinson Beach . . . . . . . . . $2,350,000 *7321 Panoramic Highway, Stinson Beach. . $1,800,000 7260 Panoramic Highway, Stinson Beach. . . $3,695,000 *22 Crescente Avenue, Bolinas. . . . . . . . . . . . $985,000 *Represented Buyer

131 Buena Vista, Stinson Beach . . . . . . . . . $1,695,000 288 Larch Road, Bolinas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $850,000

Active Listings 485 Zebra Road, Bolinas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $2,300,000 2 Bed, 2 Bath Panoramic Ocean Views

Specializing in Stinson Beach and Bolinas Real Estate Sales Since 1970 SARAH NANCY BUTLER (415) 868-0717 | DRE #01258888 3470 Shoreline Highway, Stinson Beach, CA 94970, oceanicrealty.com

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11/2/18 11:03 AM

Analysis Strategy Staging

T D

Marketing Negotiating Closing

Sold since 2005

$275 M

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Before

Thinking of selling? Don’t know where to start?

After

“My team and I worked with this seller to prepare his home for sale. In less than one month we completely transformed the property. We worked both inside and out, painting, replacing floors, cleaning, staging and landscaping.” –Eric

‘’My home had been neglected and showed its age. I feared I’d have to sell as-is and settle for bottom dollar. But Eric assured me it was a diamond-inthe-rough, and by the time he and his team had spruced it up and staged it. It looked like a million bucks! (More actually, because the house sold for well over asking and in a very short time). I could not have been more pleased. There’s a reason Eric and his team are #1 in sales. No one is even close.” –R. Bruner, seller

Give me call. Eric Gelman 415.686.1855 Eric@EricGelman.com EricGelman.com DRE 01417335

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REPRESENTED SELLER

CURRENT LISTING

333 Goodhill Road

945 Bolinas Road

Kentfield

Fairfax

REPRESENTED BUYER

REPRESENTED SELLER

134 Madrone Avenue

5002 Paradise Drive

San Anselmo

Tiburon

Nick Svenson Where Modern Meets Marin 415.505.7674 nick@marinsfhomes.com MarinSFHomes.com Lic.# 01918616

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Stephanie-

18 10:06 AM

Stephanie Pratt | Making Real Estate Dreams a Reality SOLD OFF MARKET—REPRESENTED SELLER

BEDS

BATHS

$7,400,000

1/2 BA

4 Orchard Way, Kentfield

SOLD OFF MARKET—REPRESENTED BUYER

BEDS

BATHS

$6,750,000

1/2 BA

9 Cloud View Road, Sausalito

“There are Bay Area real estate legends that have achieved status as top sellers and deal makers and Stephanie Pratt is one of them. She found us our dream home in Sausalito off-market and sold our Kent Woodlands house within the same week! She is tenacious, unflappable and best of all a joy to work with... none of the ego that usually comes with these prodigious talents. I’d work with her again, though now that we found our forever home we hope the need will not arise.” —Gina and Dave Pell, Buyer & Seller

Mid-Century Modern in Greenbrae

COMING SOON

Artist Rendering

What everyone’s been waiting for! Stylish, completely remodeled 4 bedroom, 3 bath home with spectacular Mt. Tam views, yard/level lawn and walking distance to Bon Air shopping center. Great room open floor plan with vaulted ceilings, featuring gourmet kitchen with Calacatta quartz countertops and 9 ft. waterfall island, Bosch stainless steel appliances, walk-in pantry, living room with wood-burning fireplace, dining area with custom view window and French doors out to large entertaining deck. Wonderful family home in desirable location, a must see!

Stephanie Pratt 415.971.3967

stephanie.pratt@sothebysrealty.com StephaniePrattProperties.com Lic.# 01278499

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SOLD - REPRESENTED BUYER

24 Tan Oak Way, Novato This lovely home has soaring cathedral ceilings with large windows in the kitchen and great room, allowing the living space to be filled with light. The trellised patio just off this area provides wonderful entertainment space, making this home the perfect match for my clients! Here’s what they say: “Marcia’s ability to strategically negotiate an amazing deal that saved us a lot of money, and her attention to detail and follow-through, are what set her apart from other agents. We highly recommend Marcia; she will definitely work hard for you!”—Elizabeth and Andrew R.

BEDS

BATHS

1/2 BA

Offered at $995,000

Marin by Marcia Skall. I will provide you with exemplary service. Let’s talk if you’d like to buy or sell a home.

Marcia Skall

Realtor® 415.533.5721

m.skall@ggsir.com Lic.# 01077678

Marconi Cove - The New Hotspot in West Marin! Best Beachfront Value on the Bay! 2 BD | 1.5 BA | 1/3± Acre | $1,200,000 | 18565StateRoute1.com

Rick Trono

Broker Associate

415.515.1117

r.trono@ggsir.com LivingMarin.com

Lic.# 01045523

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Strodder-M

ll .

/18 6:37 PM

7 Parkside Court, San Anselmo • 56 Longwood Drive, San Anselmo • 197 Corte Ramon, Greenbrae • 10 Sunrise Lane, Larkspur • 56 Oak Knoll Drive, San Anselmo • 69 Via La Paz, Greenbrae • 25 Canyon Drive, San Anselmo • 18 Kameha Way, Dillon Beach • 422 Alexander Avenue, Larkspur • 210 Bretano Way, Greenbrae • 235 Kent Avenue, Kentfield • 23 Meadow Ridge Drive, Corte Madera • 33 Mohawk Drive, Corte Madera • 215 Devon Drive, San Rafael • 116 Peralta Avenue, Mill Valley • 610 Tamalpais Drive, Corte Madera • 38 Bayo Vista Avenue, Larkspur • 744 Bradley Avenue, Novato • 563 San Pedro Cove, San Rafael • 510 Cedar Hill Drive, San Rafael • 360 Hoff Road, Kenwood • 155 Eliseo Drive, Greenbrae • 67 Ashford Avenue, Mill Valley • 140 C Street, San Rafael • 103 Bolsa Avenue, Mill Valley • 1203 Lattie Lane, Mill Valley • 121 Bretano Way, Greenbrae • 25 Plaza Loma, Novato • 145 Oak Shade Drive, Novato • 72 Portsmouth Way, Novato • 79 Lucas Park Drive, San Rafael • 18 Alconbury Way, Novato • 61 Pixley Avenue, Corte Madera • 7 Newport Landing Drive, Novato • 303 Wickham Drive, Mill Valley • 1982 Benton Lane, Novato • 1219 W California Avenue, Mill Valley • 70 Corte Toluca, Greenbrae • 64 Lucky Drive, Larkspur • 20 Oxford Drive, Mill Valley • 65 Sunshine Avenue, Sausalito • 66 Creek Road, Fairfax • 143 Buckelew Street, Sausalito • 337 Marin Avenue, Mill Valley • 315 1st Street, San Rafael • 152 Corte Anita, Greenbrae • 46 Blossom Drive, San Rafael • 127 Hill Drive, Kentfield • 38 Don Timoteo Court, Sonoma • 539 Bret Harte Road, San Rafael • 120 Peralta Avenue, Mill Valley • 134 Stadium Way, Mill Valley • 299 N Almenar Drive, Greenbrae • 1141 Butterfield Drive, San Anselmo • 21 Pacheco Creek Drive, Novato • 10 Eliseo Drive, Greenbrae • 45 Barber Avenue, San Anselmo • 33 Montecito Avenue, Corte Madera • 120 Glen Park Avenue, San Rafael • 199 Hillside Avenue, Kentfield • 12 Lido Lane, San Rafael • 54 Scottsdale Way, Novato • 230 Hillside Avenue, Kentfield • 54 Wimbledon Way, San Rafael • 180 Waterside Circle, San Rafael • 135 Crown Road, Kentfield • 178 Blackstone Drive, San Rafael • 2064 Easton Drive, Petaluma • 5336 Shelter Bay Avenue, Mill Valley • 80 Garden Rock Road, San Anselmo • 408 Oakcrest Road, San Anselmo • 1150 Rosalia Drive, Novato • 1544 3rd Street, San Rafael • 46 Park Drive, San Anselmo • 93 Via La Cumbre, Greenbrae • 23 Lansdale Avenue, San Anselmo • 53 Via La Cumbre, Greenbrae • 11 Tan Oak Way, Novato • 240 Lower Via Casitas, Greenbrae • 408 Forbes Avenue, San Rafael • 12 Sycamore Avenue, Larkspur • 30 Pizarro Avenue, Novato • 15 Stetson Avenue, Kentfield • 100 Thorndale Road, San Rafael • 99 Montford Avenue, Mill Valley • 119 Oak Grove Drive, Novato • 333 Riviera Circle, Larkspur • 120 Seminary Drive #3A, Mill Valley • 25 Palm Avenue, Corte Madera • 139 Buena Vista Avenue, Corte Madera • 235 Montura Way, Novato • 26 Cypress Place, Sausalito • 421 Elm Avenue, Larkspur • 43 Alconbury Way, Novato • 20 Picadilly Court, San Rafael • 12 Brookline Drive, Novato • 195 Fairway Drive, San Rafael • 35 Allyn Avenue, San Anselmo • 175 Tamalpais Road, Fairfax • 12 Eagle Rock Road, Mill Valley • 77 Tamalpais Avenue, San Anselmo • 57 Bayview Drive, San Rafael • 129 Lansdale Avenue, Fairfax • 178 W Oak Knoll Drive, San Anselmo • 24 Corte Del Bayo, Larkspur • 190 Corte Ramon, Greenbrae • 7 Cottage Avenue, Mill Valley • 24 Mooring Road, San Rafael • 8 Ashwood Court, San Rafael • 21 Marsh Road, Tiburon • 100 Thorndale Drive #22, San Rafael • 1160 McClelland Drive, Novato • 58 Via La Cumbre, Greenbrae • 79 Twelveoak Hill Drive, San Rafael • 14 Island Drive, San Anselmo • 3 Dorset Lane, Mill Valley • 65 Dominican Drive, San Rafael • 144 Griswold Avenue, Kenwood • 141 Kinross Drive, San Rafael • 14 Balboa Court, Novato • 37 Palm Avenue, San Rafael • 901 Via Casitas, Greenbrae • 127 Mountain View Avenue, San Rafael • 1714 Hill Road, Novato • 5 Mount Foraker Court, San Rafael • 327 Golden Hind Passage, Corte Madera • 127 Pepper Avenue, Larkspur • 235 Golden Hind Passage, Corte Madera • 94 Sycamore Avenue, Mill Valley • 47 Sequoia Glen Lane, Novato • 31 Juno Road, Tiburon • 146 Edison Avenue, Corte Madera • 410 Fawn Drive, San Anselmo • 90 Corte Fedora, Greenbrae • 120 Woodland Avenue, San Anselmo • 45 Corte De Sabla, Greenbrae • 32 Alta Vista Way, San Rafael • 113 Bretano Way, Greenbrae • 40 Alameda De La Loma, Novato • 80 Lyford Drive #4, Tiburon • 189 Beach Road, Belvedere • 83 Stonetree Lane, Novato • 8 Parkside Way, Greenbrae • 57 Mount Whitney Drive, San Rafael • 120 Rice Lane, Larkspur • 10 Altamira Court, Novato • 1211 W California Avenue, Mill Valley • 301 Paradise Drive, Tiburon • 233 Evergreen Drive, Kentfield • 396 Prince Royal Drive, Corte Madera • 272 Fairhills Drive, San Rafael • 70 Monterey Drive, Tiburon • 6 Nevada Street, San Rafael • 6 Wildflower Court, Corte Madera • 65 Corte Toluca, Greenbrae • 121 Villa Court, Kentfield • 17 Parkside Court, San Anselmo • 60 Bret Harte Road, San Rafael • 14 Bay Vista Drive, Mill Valley • 225 Roque Moraes Drive, Mill Valley • 22 Trumbull Court, Novato • 95 Newport Landing Drive, Novato • 8 Carroll Court, San Rafael • 174 Tamalpais Road, Fairfax • 535 Comstock Drive, Tiburon • 21 Carnoustie Drive, Novato • 179 Corte Ramon, Greenbrae • 11 Hayford Court, Novato • 3 Broadview Court, San Rafael • 628 Riviera Circle, Larkspur • 518 Magnolia Place, Novato • 10 Bonnie Brae Drive, Novato • 238 Manor Drive, Mill Valley • 910 I Street, Petaluma • 628 Lovell Avenue, Mill Valley • 78 Jewell Street, San Rafael • 8 Winged Foot Drive, San Rafael • 26 Hayford Court, Novato • 445 Center Boulevard, San Anselmo • 111 Mono Avenue, Fairfax • 5 Presidio Court, Corte Madera • 221 Ross Avenue, San Anselmo • 7 Elizabeth Circle, Greenbrae • 5 Jordan Avenue, San Anselmo • 90 Maybeck Street, Novato • 1 Kristy Court, Novato • 100 Laurel Grove Avenue, Ross • 111 Woodland Road, Kentfield • 63 Maywood Way, San Rafael • 179 Pacheco Avenue, Novato • 2 Woodhue Lane, Corte Madera • 953 W California Avenue, Mill Valley • 162 Glen Park Avenue, San Rafael • 1116 Simmons Lane, Novato • 111 17th Avenue, San Francisco • 72 Polhemus Way, Larkspur • 50 Creek Road, Fairfax • 22 Marsh Road, Tiburon • 901 Smith Road, Mill Valley • 37 Labrea Way, San Rafael • 5 Granada Drive, Corte Madera • 23 Brookline Drive, Novato • 1041 Erica Road, Mill Valley • 223 Elm Avenue, Mill Valley • 231 Coleman Drive, San Rafael • 314 Woodland Road, Kentfield • 19 Eucalyptus Knoll, Mill Valley • 575 Fairhills Drive, San Rafael • 79 Valley Road, San Anselmo • 16 Edna Court, Kentfield • 180 Almonte Boulevard, Mill Valley • 15 Hayford Court, Novato • 1 La Cuesta Drive, Greenbrae • 381 Tamalpais Road, Fairfax • 68 Meadow Drive, Mill Valley • 36 Terrace Court, Tiburon • 40 Spring Road, Kentfield • 1007 Melaleuca Lane, Mill Valley • 503 Goodhill Road, Kentfield • 29 Parkside Way, Kentfield • 1115 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, San Anselmo • 48 Red Hill Circle, Tiburon • 216 Cleveland Court, Mill Valley • 99 Pikes Peak Drive, San Rafael • 1223 Lattie Lane, Mill Valley • 221 Evergreen Drive, Kentfield • 32 Valley Circle, Mill Valley • 215 Cleveland Court, Mill Valley • 4 Valley Circle, Mill Valley • 2151 Lovall Valley Road, Sonoma • 49 South Oak Avenue, San Anselmo • 51 South Oak Avenue, San Anselmo • 1115 Elm Drive, Novato • 238 Perry Street, Mill Valley • 2011 5th Avenue, San Rafael • 630 Las Colindas Road, San Rafael • 810 Arlington Circle, Novato • 22 Woodside Way, Ross • 88 Reed Ranch Road, Tiburon • 178 Almonte Boulevard, Mill Valley • 10 Center Street, San Rafael • 479 E Walnut Street, Sonoma • 75 Lomita Drive, Mill Valley • 332 Golden Hind Passage, Corte Madera • 202 Cleveland Court, Mill Valley • 137 Humboldt Avenue, San Anselmo • 162 Morning Sun Avenue, Mill Valley • 232 Perry Street, Mill Valley • 14 Kentdale Lane, Kentfield • 790 Arlington Circle, Novato • 522 Northern Avenue, Mill Valley • 38 Laurel Drive, Corte Madera • 72 Baywood Drive, Ross • 168 Picnic Avenue, San Rafael • 296 Union Street, San Rafael • 1743 Center Road, Novato • 43 Sequoia Glen Lane, Novato • 17 Glen Court, Sausalito • 156 The Alameda, San Anselmo • 176 Avenida Miraflores, Tiburon • 287 Greene Street, Mill Valley • 297 Greene Street, Mill Valley • 230 El Prado Avenue, San Rafael • 1010 Trillium Lane, Mill Valley • 4 Avichi Knoll Drive, Novato • 75 Bella Vista Avenue, San Anselmo • 1166 McClelland Avenue, Novato • 129 Stanford Avenue, Mill Valley • 22 Heather Way, Larkspur • 2008 5th Avenue, San Rafael • 121 Ricardo Road, Mill Valley • 162 Solano Street, San Rafael • 110 San Rafael Avenue, San Rafael • 304 Wickham Drive, Mill Valley

Proudly representing all people in all price ranges in all areas of Marin for over three decades. How may I help you?

Ted Strodder Top Producer Broker Associate

Thank you to my loyal clients!

★★★★★ Over 70 Five Star Reviews on Zillow.com

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Text or Call

415.377.5222

Ted@GoMarin.com Lic.# 01057081 GoMarin.com AllMarin.com

11/1/18 10:34 6:33 PM 11/5/18 AM

4 PARK PLACE TIBURON

ELEGANT, SPACIOUS AND SUN-FILLED WITH VIEWS OF MOUNT TAM AND THE BAY

Behind gates, this elegant and expansive property combines fine living with access to an active lifestyle. Enjoy all-day sun with room to entertain generously both inside and outdoors - the large parcel is perfect for a pool/sport court. Five minutes from shops, grocery stores, restaurants, and top rated schools. Just a quick hike out your back door to Ring Mountain makes this the ultimate Tiburon destination. Visit 4ParkPlace.com to schedule your private tour today.

Offered at $4,695,000 CATHERINE COOK MACRAE Global Real Estate Advisor +1 (415) 260-0453 cathy@marinhouses.com marinhouses.com DRE#01241641

KATHLEEN DIRINGER Global Real Estate Advisor +1 (415) 793-3040 kathleen.diringer@evusa.com kathleendiringer.evusa.com DRE#01451867

©2018 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principals of the Fair Housing Act. All information provided is deemed reliable but DRE# 01976469 is not guaranteed and should be independently verified. If your property is currently represented by a real estate broker, this is not an attempt to solicit your listing.

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10/29/18 10:50 AM

ENGEL & VÖLKERS SAUSALITO WELCOMES MICHELE AFFRONTE

31 Years of

Experience Selling Waterfront Homes. Only the best join Engel & Völkers. Michele’s keen business expertise, sales background, and thoughtful approach to real estate are a perfect fit for our team of talented advisors. “I am pleased to inform you that in order to better serve my clients I have joined Engel & Völkers, a global company with the ability to market your home around the world.” - Michele Affronte

MICHELE AFFRONTE GLOBAL REAL ESTATE ADVISOR +1 415 798-0236 Michele.Affronte@evusa.com MicheleAffronte.evusa.com DRE#00959293

MICHELE AFFRONTE

eliable but

New To Market

39 Issaquah Dock, Sausalito, CA 2 BEDS | 3 BATHS | 1,725+ SQUARE FEET OFFERED AT $1,850,000

©2018 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principals of the Fair Housing Act. All information provided is deemed DRE# 01976469 reliable but is not guaranteed and should be independently verified. If your property is currently represented by a real estate broker, this is not an attempt to solicit your listing.

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10/29/18 10:51 AM

San rafael | $1,299,000 Architect-designed custom 3br/3ba home w/stained glass, curved walls, arched windows, separate studio and 2br/1ba guest home. Lynnette Kling 415.847.2576 | LK@FindamarinHome.com CalRE # 01318366

novato | $1,995,000 Spacious home w/pool house in coveted Verissimo Valle. John Hammer 415.971.4769 | JHammer@cbnorcal.com CalRE #00975220

San rafael | $1,695,000 mid-century 4br/3ba home w/mt. Tam views on over 1/2 acre. Annie Lasley 415.531.2710 michael Sommer 415.264.0166 CalRE #01214824 | CalRE #00573928

COLDWELL BANKER RESIDENTIAL BROKERAGE

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San anselmo | $1,779,000 Vintage 3br/2ba Craftsman-style home in a desirable neighborhood. Kim Piro-Guerrero 415.699.3866 Elizabeth Young 415.823.6472 CalRE #01410251 | CalRE #01374948

novato | $1,399,000 Elegant Southern Novato 4br/2.5ba turnkey home with a stone patio. Karyn Kambur 415.516.3221 | Karyn@KarynKamburRealEstate.com CalRE #01785669

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10/29/18 10:49 AM

santa rosa | $915,000 Serene 3br/2ba oakmont Village home overlooking the golf course and pond. Expansive windows & doors for indoor-outdoor flow. Nicely updated. Abby Tanem 415.497.9542 | atanem@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01301798

san rafael | $899,000 Vacation at home in this contemporary 4br/2.5ba baypoint Lagoon home. Karyn Kambur 415.516.3221 | Karyn@KarynKamburRealEstate.com CalRE #01785669

Novato | $778,000 Extensively updated 2br/2.5ba in Pacheco Valle w/expansive views.

Greenbrae | $729,000 Newly remodeled 3br/2ba top floor end-unit with gorgeous views.

Novato | $575,000 Picturesque 2br/2ba condo in Pacheco Valleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Quail Hollow Meadow.

Lynnette Kling 415.847.2576 Marika Sakellariou 415.713.8848 CalRE #01318366 | CalRE #01486869

Carol Courtney 415.608.6105 | CCourtney@MarinHomesForSale.com CalRE #00995136

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10/31/18 9:35 AM

San Rafael | $569,950 Beautifully remodeled 2br/1.5ba condo in Marin Cove.

Tiburon | $3,500,000 www.20BayshoreTerrace.com

Petaluma | $599,000 Fixer-upper special - Run donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t walk!

Andy Falk 415.250.8025 | Andy.Falk@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01459954

Candace & Keith Nordstrom 415.302.7404 | CandanceNordstrom@Gmail.com CalRE #01320089

Candy Grippi 415.250.9154 | CGrippi@cbnorcal.com CalRE #00685646

BE FIRST IN LINE

Competition among home buyers is fierce, so give yourself a head start. Sign up for new listing alerts at ColdwellBankerHomes.com and see available properties as soon as they hit the market.

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Love Where You Live. Handling purchases, sales, and exchanges for families, investors, and developers. Estates, multigenerational properties, luxury homes, and investments. Marin for generations. Real estate broker associate, attorney, entrepreneur/investor:

Alexander V. Choulos 415.601.7609 av.choulos@ggsir.com Broker Associate Lic.# 01969799 GoldenGateLuxuryHomes.com

Happy Holidays!

Serving Marin families since 1986. Hands-on, added value services offered to my clients achieve top dollar results. With my assistant Gina, we put in the time behind the scenes helping sellers de-clutter, spruce up, and stage each home until it shines! Using cutting edge technology, our team works to maximize exposure for each listing! We work hard, so you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to.

Stunning Novato Home Nestled on a quiet cul-de-sac and on nearly half acre lot, is this beautifully appointed home. Grand entry with elegant staircase, spacious rooms and outdoor entertaining areas surrounded by nature. Four bedrooms and 3 baths plus family room (approximately 3700 sf) and 3-car garage close to all amenities. 5savanna.com, 5 Savanna Court in Novato, Listed at $1,399,000

Top Agent & Relocation Specialist 101 Nellen Dr., Corte Madera, CA Cal BRE#00924665 415.860.4687 â&#x20AC;˘ waykab@apr.com www.waykab.apr.com

M A R I N D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 8 153

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11/5/18 10:34 AM

Looking Back

CIRCA 1920s

The Sugar Line

HEN IT WA S laid in the early 1920s,

the six miles of 12-inch pipe running from Ross to Point San Quentin was known as the “Sugar Line.” Why? Because the California & Hawaii (better known as C&H) Sugar Company’s processing plant in nearby Crockett needed fresh water — and the only sure way to get it was from the the young Marin Municipal Water District (MMWD). By 1916, several private local water companies had been consolidated into the MMWD, and within a decade an agreement with C&H Sugar had been finalized. The five-year contract called for MMWD to supply the sugar company with 300 million gallons of water a year for $30,000, plus $10,000 for an additional 200 million gallons whether they were used

or not. The original C&H contract paid for the expansion of the water district’s transmission line through the Ross Valley, and a contract extension covered the cost of raising Alpine Dam by eight feet. The six miles of cast-iron pipe originating in Ross traveled in trenches dug by hand through Kentfield, Greenbrae, Larkspur and San Rafael, reaching Point San Quentin near the McNears quarry and brickyard. The above photo was taken along what is now Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, about where Marin Catholic High School is today. According to Mount Tamalpais and the Marin Municipal Water District by MMWD Director Jake Gibson, the cast-iron bell and spigot pipe came by rail from the American Iron Pipe Company in Birmingham, Alabama. Portions of the original pipeline are still in use. m

The five-year contract called for MMWD to supply the sugar company with 300 million gallons of water a year for $30,000.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MARIN MUNICIPAL WATER DISTRICT ARCHIVES

A six-mile water pipeline, laid in the 1920s, still serves the Ross Valley. BY JIM WOOD

154 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 8 M A R I N

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Find Your Perfect Vacation Home Minutes from the Base of the Mountain

IDE A L LY L OC AT ED in a quiet area of Olympic Valley, The Palisades at Squaw Valley is both private and convenient. Perfect for those with a passion for powder, an appetite for adventure, and a desire for downtime. 63 townhomes, single family homes and lots now available. For sales information contact Matt Smith at 530.414.9177 Exclusively Represented by SagePoint, a California Licensed Broker. DRE #01987029

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THE SEASON IS BRIGHT THE EXPERIENCE IS ALAIN PINEL

Your home. Your moment. When looking to buy or sell a home, we’re here to help you find the backdrop for all the memories to come. Throughout the Bay Area and Northern California — from San Francisco to Lake Tahoe, Carmel to Wine Country — our agents are second to none.

APR.COM Over 30 Real Estate Offices Serving The Bay Area Including 4 Offices in Marin County 415.755.1111

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