Make It Today Dressmaker 35

£9.99 | Issue 35 July 2018

Summer

Classics 4 KEY MAKES ON YOUR PULLOUT!

Easy Stitch

P BACyKElTegIEanTO ce In Silk An Afternoon

Simple sews to create at home...

JERSEY WRAP DRESS COOL A-LINE SKIRTS DRAPED TUNIC

R FREE PATTERNS IN SIZES 8-22* *APPROX UK SIZING. SIZES VARY PER PATTERN

20 SEPARATES

+EASY-BREEZY

Love YOU

8free patterns STYLISH SEPARATES WITH YOUR

This Month’s patterns Summertime separates are key at this time of year, so look no further for inspiration than this month’s patterns. New Look’s 6284 is all about versatility with its choice of necklines and sleeve lengths. Complete your outfit with New Look 6106 – opt for a sophisticated midi skirt or dazzle in a flattering shorter length.

What’s your size?

When selecting a pattern, it is important to use your body measurements, not your ready-towear size. The style of the garment will also determine the fit, so check your proportions against the pattern’s chart. If you are between sizes, opt for the smaller one if you’re fineboned or would like a close fit, and the larger one if you prefer a loose fit. Find out how to take accurate measurements, increase the size of a dart, and view size charts at simplicitynewlook.com.

We’ve added key techniques from our dressmakers to help you create the perfect garments makeittoday.co.uk

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YOUR FREE

PATTERNS

Stitch the Perfect Pair A versatile wardrobe is a must for the modern lady. There’s nothing better than being able to mix ‘n’ match pretty tops and skirts, and create stylish outfits using essential basics.

Keep it classic with New Look 6106, a simple A-line skirt that can be stitched in three different lengths. Make yours in a gorgeous floaty fabric or perhaps keep it structured in heavier weights. Team your finished skirt with New Look 6284, a relaxed top that comes with four very different styles, but all equally as eyecatching. Choose from two flattering lengths, then experiment with the neckline in two square options. Have fun with the sleeves by taking your pick from sleeveless, flutter or threequarter length. It’s the only pattern you need this summer!

NEXT MONTH’S FREE GIFTS...

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Crochet Mag ‘n’ Makes

CURIOUSER AND CURIOUSER!

We’re head over heels for the new Disney x Cath Kidston collection, based on Alice in Wonderland. Combining illustrations from the 1951 film with Cath Kidston’s iconic prints in cornflower, sea blue, and red, this lovely range includes garments, accessories and crockery that will delight kids – and the young at heart! cathkidston.com

Natural Colour

Have you ever looked at a flower and wished you could find a fabric in that exact colour? In Botanical Inks, designer Babs Behan explains how to recycle plants into natural dyes to use in various techniques, from Shibori tie-dyeing to screen printing, and also provides beautiful projects to make. £16.99, quadrille.com

HELPING HANDS

After a hard day’s sewing, give your hands some serious pampering with SEAMS hand cream.

Designed especially for couturiers and seamstresses, it absorbs quickly and softens skin without transferring grease onto fabrics. £14, seamsbeauty.co.uk

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WSIEN LINE

VLIE LES BUND 7!

ON P4

Make it, buy it, love it Fantastic fairytales and fab florals Perfect Stretch

For decades the name Vilene, now Vlieseline, has meant high quality interfacings, ensuring that dressmakers are getting the best possible products for their makes. Try Vlieseline’s fab new Stretchfix Tape and Stretchfix Roll, designed for use with stretchy fabrics. Available at ladysewandsew.co.uk – find out more at vlieseline.com/en

Lov

R A I N B OW B R I G H T

The latest Kaffe Fassett Collective Classics range is just as vibrant and eye-catching as ever, with 14 re-colours of his popular Lotus Leaf, Aboriginal Dots, End Paper and Spots designs. There’s also six equally beautiful new patterns from Philip Jacobs and five from Brandon Mably, providing all the summer sewing inspiration you could ever want. kaffefassett.com

Why not try?

L I B E Rely TY

A PALACE GARDEN BY ALICE CAROLINE

FARIA FLOWERS

Stitch Online

Learn embroidery with the Royal School of Needlework (RSN) – from the comfort of your own home! The RSN are teaming up with SewandSo to launch a programme of online courses from June, beginning with Introduction to Jacobean Crewelwork with Deborah Wilding, and Introduction to Blackwork with Helen McCook. rsnonlinecourses.com MORRIS BUTTERFLY

PEA

PEACOCK PARADE

SW E E T I E P I E

This adorable Honeydew Hoodie is part of the new Poppy & Jazz collection of babies’ PDF patterns by Lisa Comfort of Sew Over It – and they’re just as stylish as her designs for adults! Each pattern, including a dress, sweatshirt, trousers and dungarees, comes with a free digital children’s picture book, Jazz’s New Clothes. £5 each, sewoverit.co.uk

Make The Cut

The Cricut Maker is a next-generation, electronic cutting machine that’s ideal for dressmakers, with a ground-breaking rotary blade that can cut fabric without needing to stabilise it first. It’s also compatible with DIY design software suite, Design Space, allowing you to access a wide selection of designs and sewing patterns from brands such as Simplicity, Riley Blake Designs, and Anna Griffin. £379.99, uk.cricut.com

Fans of Alice Caroline can rejoice – a new Liberty collection for autumn/winter is on the way, mixing traditional English symbolism with Art Deco glamour.

A Palace Garden is inspired by Eltham Palace, a former royal residence in south east London that was once used by Tudor kings and queens, and was refurbished during the 30s by new owners Stephen and Virginia Courtauld. Designer Alice Caroline Garrett says, “There are stunning florals and Art Deco influences tied in with the odd surprise.” alicecaroline.co.uk

A N D F I N A L LY…

The Big Stitch campaign, launched by the British Heart Foundation (BHF), returns for 1st-15th July! For the chance to win an amazing prize, simply buy a garment from a BHF shop, upcycle it any way you like, then upload your ‘before’ and ‘after’ pictures by tagging the BHF on Twitter, Instagram or Facebook, including the hashtag #TheBigStitch. Find out more at bhf.org.uk/ thebigstitch

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Beginnproejrect EASY-BREEZY EVENING STYLE

BackTie Top Silky sleeveless elegance you can make in an afternoon Few pieces captivate in quite the same way as a silky occasion top, which creates natural movement in abundance as well as evoking the grace and refinement of twenties glamour.

Gatsby lines beguile in simple shapes, and this sleeveless style from Amanda Walker deploys a graceful silhouette that falls in a cloud of sumptuous draping. Thanks to its intriguing neck fastening, it draws attention to the back, whilst also gathering delicately in front to accentuate the shoulder line and breasts. Ideal with a light jacket and fitted trousers as a single silky accent, a classic pencil or palazzo trews, this sleek and sophisticated feminine finery is a true call to arms.

Amanda Walker DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

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Beginnproejrect ESSENTIAL KIT Fabric, 1.4m x 1.5m Interfacing, lightweight Coordinating thread

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT: Cut one on fold BACK: Cut one on fold FRONT FACING: Cut one on fold in main fabric, one on fold in interfacing BACK FACING: Cut one on fold in main fabric, one on fold in interfacing SLEEVES: Cut one pair SKIRT: Cut two Use 1cm seam allowances throughout

FLORAL AND FLORAL

Drop Hem Tunic

A versatile must-have that’ll stun come rain or shine Julia Claridge

It can be tricky to find a balance at this time of the year as the temperature swings from cold to warm (and back again), but this transitional go-to is the answer to all of your wardrobe woes. Sport Julia Claridge’s chic tunic dress to your summer soirées for a fun, easy-going look or throw over a pair of jeans for those slightly chillier days. Featuring whimsical floral prints in bright hues, dress to impress and make a statement whatever the weather.

Drop Hem Tunic

1

Download and cut the pattern from makeittoday.co.uk. With right sides together, join the front and back neck facing at the shoulder seam.

Neaten the inner raw edge by overlocking or turning a narrow 5mm singleturned hem.

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Join both side seams of the skirt, right sides together, then neaten the raw edges. Stitch two rows of long gather stitches around the upper edge of the skirt. Gently pull the gather threads until the size is the same as the lower edge of the bodice.

2

Join the front and back pieces at the shoulder and sleeve seam, right sides together, then neaten the raw edges and press. With right sides facing, match the sleeve head notch to the shoulder seam, pin and stitch the sleeve around the armhole, then neaten.

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With seams matching and right sides together, pin the neck facing to the neck edge, then clip the seam.

Under-stitch the neck edge.

With right sides together and seams matched, sew the underarm seam starting at the

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sleeve edge and continuing to the bodice edge.

Pin the skirt to the bodice, right sides together and seams matched, stitch and neaten raw edges. Make single turned 2.5cm hems on the skirt and sleeve. Handstitch the facing shoulder seams to the garment shoulder seams to complete.

After neatening the edges, stitch the seams, right sides together, leaving a gap at one side between the notches so you can insert the tie belt. Press the seam open and topstitch around the edge of the gap.

YO U R

FREE

Pattern

Yoke Apart OPTION B 6284

The yoke requires interfacing, and provides a great opportunity to use up any small leftover pieces in your stash.

When fusing interfacing, it’s vital to trim it down by a few millimetres to ensure it doesn’t extend beyond the fabric and stick to the iron. If making garments on a regular basis, it is well worth investing in an iron cleaner and ensuring that the board is also spotless before use each time.

FA B R I C

Tape That Bias tape adds a professional finish and there are so many ready-made solid and patterned varieties available that will compliment most fabrics. However, it’s also easy to make a matching tape from the main fabric. Simply cut lengths at a 45° angle then join them to create the required length. Make sure to cut at the correct angle to retain the bias, so that the strip will curve naturally around the armhole. A 4.5cm width works well for most garments.

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John Kaldor Ditsy Blue Cotton

New Look 6284’s option B lends itself to dainty florals and this lightweight cotton is perfect for summer, featuring delicate blooms in shades of blue and yellow. £6.95 per metre, sewessential.co.uk

Beginnproejrect

COSMETIC CUTES MADE SIMPLE

Make-up pouches

ESSENTIAL KIT Cotton prints, fat quarters Coordinating thread Zip, 18cm Leather scraps Buttons, assorted Fabric glue

Make-up pouches

A trio of lush make-up cases for summer

1

Prepare two sections of outer fabric and two of lining, 18cm x 26cm, then two of outer fabric, 3cm x 6cm.

Fold in 1cm on each short end, then glue down. Fold in half and wrap over the ends of the zip, topstitching or gluing in place.

2

Place one piece of outer fabric face up, then lay the zip face down along the long top edge. Place the lining face down on top, pin and stitch along the top edge of the zip, 5mm from the teeth.

Unfold the layers and press so the zip lays along the top.

Repeat for the other zip edge.

Open the zip and pin the outer pieces, right sides together, then sew the three remaining sides. Repeat for the lining, leaving an 8cm gap along the bottom edge for turning.

3

Pinch the bottom corners of both outer and lining so they form a triangle. Stitch across each triangle, 3cm from the point, then trim the excess for a box base. Turn out through the gap, fold in the raw edges and slip stitch closed. Push the lining inside the bag and close the zip.

4

Cut leather, 4cm square, in half diagonally to make two triangles. Pinch the top corners of the bag on the outside and flatten. Glue a triangle to the top of the corner and fold down to meet the side seam. Stitch the squashed corner to the side of the bag with a single-coloured button.

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Corinne Bradd

As summer hots up, you’ll need to keep your warpaint close and your beauty regime in tip-top knick. Corinne Bradd’s triple whammy of sturdy seasonal pouches protects and serves in refreshing hints and hues of lush botanicals. Why not make the lining as beautiful as the outers by using a patterned material, or try an oilcloth lining to prevent leaky lip-glosses spoiling your bag? Don’t forget to colour-match your zip colour and buttons for added zing.

Beginnproejrect

SUMMER STAPLE

Draped Tunic

ESSENTIAL KIT Main fabric, 2m x 150cm Concealed zip, 22in Fusible interfacing, 30cm Matching thread

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT: Cut one on fold BACK: Cut one pair SLEEVE: Cut two pair POCKET: Cut two pairs BACK NECK FACING: Cut one pair in fabric and one pair in interfacing FRONT NECK FACING: Cut one on fold in fabric and one on fold in interfacing

Dazzle in crepe with this fashion-forward frock

1.5cm seam allowances are used throughout except around the base of the sleeves where 1cm is needed

Amanda Walker

Draped Tunic Download and cut out

1

the pattern from makeittoday.co.uk. Stitch darts into the front dress from the sides of the darts to the points. Press them upwards towards the shoulders. With right sides together, match one pair of pockets to the position indicated on the side seam of the pattern, then pin and stitch. Neaten this and the edge of the pocket.

Repeat, positioning the remaining pair of pockets to the back pieces.

2

Neaten the edges of the centre back seam, then stitch as far as the zip notch from the base of the dress.

Sew the concealed zip into the back opening, then press the seam allowance along the two sides. Turn out and with the right side facing, place the opened zip face down matching the teeth to the crease line. Stitch along one side, leaving 3cm unstitched.

Back stitch, then sew the other side. Thread the zip pull to the right side at the top and close.

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Ladies, this dress just proves that you can be comfortable and stylish at the same time. Made from a beautifully light crepe fabric, this tent tunic is ideal for a multitude of occasions during the summer months, plus it can be teamed with tights in the winter – it’s a winner in our eyes! Amanda’s versatile pattern is wonderful to use with a whole selection of fabrics so you can create a tunic for all four seasons.

3

Neaten across the shoulders edges of the front and back dress, then pin and stitch. Press the seam allowance open. Fuse the interfacing to the front and back neck facings. Sew the shoulder edges together, then neaten the outer. With the right sides together, match the neck facing around that of the dress, matching the shoulder seams. Sew, then clip and under-stitch around the edge of the seam on the right side.

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unturned sleeve out so that you are looking at the right side of both. Press the seam allowance up into one of them to make the sleeve lining, then under-stitch.

Repeat the process on the remaining pair, finishing with one set of lined sleeves.

6

Sew a row of gathering stitch around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back. Pull the gathering threads up slightly and place the sleeve into the armhole.

Match the side seams and the underarm seam of the sleeve. Position the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the one at the end of the shoulder seam, then adjust the gathers to fit the armhole. Pin and stitch in place, then neaten.

Match the side seams of the front and back, and around the edges of the pockets, then pin and stitch.

Neaten the seam allowances from the under armhole, around the pockets to the base of the dress, pressing towards the front. Sew the underarm sleeve seams, right Tidy the base of the sides facing on both pairs. dress, then fold and Press open, then turn one pair press the 3cm hem before to the right side and place handstitching. Turn in the these inside the un-turned pair. edges of the back neck facing in line with the edge Position the underarm of the zip, then hand seams together, then sew slipstitch in place. Secure the two sleeves around the the edge of the facing to base with a 1cm seam the shoulder seams again allowance. Clip, then take the with slip stitches.

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Beginnproejrect

ULTIMATE JERSEY STAPLE

Wrap Dress

Timeless sophistication to suit your shape

Amanda Walker

Want instant fashion kudos that fits and flows across the curves of the body whilst enabling total comfort? If you’re hankering for that definitive classic wrap dress to enhance your natural assets, this pattern is your perfect chance! Just like pioneer Diane von Furstenberg blazed a figureflattering trail with her relaxed jersey hit, Amanda Walker elevates a modern classic with two metres of a playful polka dot knit. Scoring the easy glamour of Hollywood sirens whilst allowing full freedom of movement, this delightful dress pattern is versatile enough to refashion into all manner of elegant shades and prints. For grace and quality that never fades, wrap it up and start again!

ESSENTIAL KIT Jersey fabric, 2m x 1.5m Coordinating thread Fusible jersey interfacing, 30cm Bondaweb Tape, 30cm

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT: Cut one pair FRONT SKIRT FACING: Cut one pair in fabric, one pair in fusible interfacing BACK: Cut one on fold SLEEVE: Cut one pair NECK BAND: Cut two strips of jersey, 4cm x 58cm TIE BELT: Cut two strips; right side 10cm x 135cm, left side 10cm x 120cm 1.5cm seam allowances used throughout, except for the neckline, where 1cm is used.

Neaten the edges by overlocking or zigzagging.

DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

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Wrap Dress Download and cut

1

out the pattern from makeittoday.co.uk. Neaten the edges of the shoulder seams on the front and back pieces. Lay a strip of tape along the stitching line, then match and sew the shoulder seams and press the seams open.

2

Match and stitch the two ends of the neck band, fold and press the strip in half lengthways. Match the join in the strip to the centre back neckline, then pin the strip around and down the wrap part, stretching the strip slightly to fit. Towards the end, on the side edge of the front wrap, angle the strip upwards so the binding disappears when looking at the right side of the dress. Neaten the seam allowances, then fold the binding and press upwards so the neatened edges fold inside the garment.

3

Neaten the edges of the side seams on the front and back pieces. Match the back and front, right sides together, pin and sew. On the

Tweed Cap

Parisienne Top

Tunic Dress

MORE PATTERNS, MORE MAKES...

Bonus Projects For You Liberty Collar

Even more DIY dressmaking inspiration at makeittoday.co.uk Expand your stitching repertoire with an assortment of quick and easy handmade fashion projects

Plus....

Peplum top for parties ◆ Bell blouse with easy ruffles ◆ Tulip dress to wow friends ◆ Drape cape for all seasons ◆ Fitted dress for a princess ◆ Pretty shirred gypsy blouse ◆ Vintage Monte Carlo skirt ◆ And much, much more! ◆

Floral Top

Everyday Tee

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