Make it Today 8 Dressmaking

Make it Today!

ISSUE 8 SEPT/OCT 2

015

Stitch your Style

LOVE IT

MAKE IT

DO IT

BUY IT

READ IT

YOUR KIT PATTERNS FROM

& SEW YOURSELF AN

easy-wear

outfit

EVERYDAY STYLE...

KIMONO, CAMI TOP, LITTLE GIRLS’ DRESS

STITCH IT TODAY 27 ACCESSORY AND GARMENT IDEAS

WIN! CHINE SEWING MA

WORTH £799

ISSUE 8 | £7.99 SEPT/OCT 2015

MAKE IT TODAY

Inside: Liberty Knickers · DIY Wedding Dresses · Retro Patterns on Show

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41 THE BOOKS Check out the latest goodies on our dressmaking bookshelf

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43 FABRIC LOVE The autumnal prints that have us feeling fabric-crazy this month 50 FIGURE FLATTERY Discover the styles that will suit your shape with our expert advice

RELAX AND READ 6 MAKE IT, BUY IT, LOVE IT Keep up to date with all the latest stitchy news 8 NOTICEBOARD Our chance to show off all your fabulous handmade creations

Contents: DRESSMAKING

18 THE BOTTOM LINE Learn the silky secrets of stitching underwear with lingerie design duo Katherine Sheers and Laura Stanford

ISSUE 8 YOUR KIT MAKES

13 STYLISH WRAP DRESS We show you two different ways to impress with the wrap-around dress in a cotton and satin-style fabric 21 JACKET, SKIRT AND TROUSERS Put the wow in power and create a striking trio of smart pieces you’ll love to wear 26 FUNKY GEO TOP Make a statement and choose bold stripes to create a fun, effortlessly chic top for any occasion 28 SWEET FROCK This A-line beauty flatters your figure in all the right places and is easily adaptable, too!

EXTRA PROJECTS 17 BOW HEADBAND Style yourself vintage with this pretty polka dot accessory

34 FITTED DRESS Practice Princess seaming and sew a gorgeous fitted dress that will flatter any figure

ON PATROL

42 Q&A We chat to Suzannah Hamlin Stanley about her DIY approach to dressmaking

36 CAMI TOP Become a bias-binding pro and stitch a trendy cami

30 JANOME GIVEAWAY We have an amazing prize up for grabs this month – a Janome Atelier 3!

58 I DO, I DO, I DO IT MYSELF The ladies that said ‘I DO’ to making the most important garment of all – not to be missed!

38 PATCHWORK TOTE BAG Create some serious arm candy with this totes amazing carrier

32 RETRO REVIVAL Swing back in time and find yourself whipping up a retro wrap with the help of these vintage patterns

66 INTERVIEW: RACHEL PINHEIRO

46 CUTE CHILD’S DRESS Our mini-model Betty shows off her adorable moves in this easy- to-make practical garment 52 BIRDY BUTTON EARRINGS Turn a crafty essential into something beautiful with these sweet birdy treats 53 CHIC KIMONO Wrap yourself up in this quick three-hour slouchy cardigan

11 STITCH ME UP! Our latest haberdashery must-haves: you’ll want it all!

SUBSCRIBE NOW Get money off a threeissue trial Turn to pages 40 and 60 for more info

Make it Today!

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The blogging Brazilian spills her love of sewing and shares some handy stitchy tips

IN EVERY ISSUE

3 WELCOME 5 INSIDE YOUR KIT 30 GIVEAWAYS 40+60 SUBSCRIPTIONS 56 COMING NEXT ISSUE 61 PRACTICALS

Make it Today!

YOUR 11 GARMENT DESIGNER PATTERNS EASY-TO-USE DRESSMAKER’S TISSUE PATTERN PAPER, PLUS GUIDES TO SEWING, SIZING AND MUCH MORE!

Make six stylish dresses

full sewing guides and illustrated instructions Turn to page 61 for dressmaking tips that will help you to get stitching today!

Choose from five of mccall’s must-haves DON’T MISS NEXT ISSUE!

Two exclusive designer patterns in our CHRISTMAS SPECIAL

ON SALE 23RD OCTOBER 2015 Find out more on page 56

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THIS MONTH...

make it, buY it, love it © Ernestine Carter Archive, Fashion Museum, Bath and North East Somerset Council

The latest trends, news and more in the stitchy world of sewing!

Cocktail dress by American designer Arnold Scaasi, 1961, using ‘Eustacia’ Liberty fabric

© Liberty Fabric Limited

‘Bengal’ Bernard Nevill for Liberty and Co. on silk, 1969

‘Eustacia’ print impression, printed at Liberty and Co. Ltd Merton print works, 1960

Few designer fabric houses elicit as much delight as Liberty. Founder Arthur Lasenby Liberty famously declared that he did not wish to follow fashion but create it. On 9th October, in honour of 140 years of design innovation, the Fashion and Textile Museum celebrates Liberty’s iconic role as the originator of key trends. The Liberty in Fashion exhibition, which runs until February 2016, brings together more than 150 accessories and garments.

Says curator Dennis Nothdruft, “Every garment has been chosen to prove why Liberty is always in fashion”. ftmlondon.org Art Nouveau fashion using ‘Constantia’, 1961

Make it Today!

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© Liberty London

© Liberty Fabric Limited

LOVE, LIFE & LIBERTY

WALKING THE WALKAWAY DESIGN A DRESS ONSCREEN Say ‘Walkaway dress’ to a group of stitchers and you’re sure to feel the love. This fifties classic is the subject of an event being hosted at the Knitting & Stitching show at Alexandra Palace on Wednesday 7th October. The Butterick Walkaway tea is a celebration of this pattern, sales of which contribute directly to women’s cancer charity The Eve Appeal. theknittingandstitchingshow.com/ london

If drafting dress patterns with pencil and paper is causing you to fret, you’ll love the on-screen editing options available with Fittingly Sew 2 from Soft Byte. This pioneering computer-aided pattern drafting tool allows budding dressmakers to test the accuracy of a given set of body measurements and produce a perfect fit. Its built-in patterns can be adapted for all kinds of body shapes for women, men and children. softbyte.co.uk

Congratulations! Your wish to appeal to all shapes and sizes is admirable. What would you say you have learned from ‘real’ women?

As a designer, I learn a lot from seeing others in my styles, and one of the best moments was at The Maker’s Atelier’s first photo shoot.

I like to use real women, and the samples are all made in a size 12, but no two women are the same. So it was fabulous to see all the women wearing the same style in slightly different ways, but all looking great.

DON’T JUDGE A BOOK…

ATELIER DELIGHT Janome has reported that its Atelier 5 is proving very popular for all types of sewing. Dressmakers adore the precision of 91 needle positions and the superb stitch quality, whilst the sheer power of 1,000 stitches per minute and 9mm stitch width is perfect for crafters. Put simply, the Atelier series has something for everyone. janome.co.uk

Do you think dress-making relies more on taking chances, or on knowing what works?

One of the joys of dressmaking is playing around with different fabrics and altering a pattern. Every time something goes wrong, you learn something new. And I have fashion disasters all the time! I’m always making my skirts so tight I can hardly walk. Today, my legs are blue from the excess indigo dye in my stretch denim pencil skirt – but sometimes you have to suffer to be stylish!

Reaching for a beloved literary classic just became even more enticing, thanks to a new collection of Penguin books with crafty jackets, incorporating styles such as cross-stitch, quilting and embroidery. These beautiful covers shed new perspectives on complex, highly detailed subjects. As Brenda Riddle, artist for The Help, admits, “There is often an element of storytelling with crafting”. penguin.co.uk

TRAVEL SEWN UP Why not combine your travel plans with your stitchy passions and try a sewing tour? Craft holiday specialist Stitchtopia has lined up a selection of textile-tinged retreats and adventures in locations as far-flung as Iceland and Boston, and all designed to help you explore your muse with like-minded crafters and a textile specialist. arenatravel.com/our-holidays/stitchtopia

THAT’S FABRITASTIC!

TO FIND OUT HOW TO WIN A JANOME ATELIER 3, TURN TO P30!

Designer Frances Tobin is celebrating the first anniversary of The Maker’s Atelier. We caught up with her for a natter:

Feel like brushing up on your dressmaking skills? Fabritastic has a workshop that can whip your stitching into shape! Owner Laura’s only too happy to put you through your paces with groups ranging from beginner to experienced, including the highly enjoyable ‘skirt in a day’ workshop and social sewing days. fabritastic.co.uk

ON PATROL 7

What have you learned about dressmaking in the last year, both from the business and from some of the people you have met?

Before I started The Maker’s Atelier, I didn’t know any other dressmakers.

It’s been fabulous to meet so many interesting people at fairs or online via Instagram and Facebook. Most people I’ve met have been so generous in their encouragement of what I’m trying to do, and I hadn’t expected that: the fashion industry is a much harder world. I think my confidence has grown, because more people seem to like my style.

What advice would you give to budding dressmakers?

Choose a simple style you think you’ll want to wear, measure yourself accurately against the pattern’s size chart, and make a toile first. Sewing is a bit like cooking: when you are relaxed, it all goes well. themakersatelier.com

© Amelia Shepherd

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

PROJECT BY LOUISE NICHOLS | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS/INTERMEDIATE | SHOULD TAKE A WEEKEND OF SAVVY STITCHINESS

WHATEVER YOUR BODY SHAPE, THIS

STYLISH WRAP DRESS is flattering, comfortable and surprisingly easy to make

Pumps £11.99, Headband £3.99; New Look 0500 454 094

Decisions, decisions! There are so many dress options in Butterick’s B5030 pattern pack, you probably won’t know where to start, so enjoy our double-showcase: two of the looks possible with this desirable wraparound dress selection. Figurehugging yet free-flowing, the wraparound designs give support and shape across the shoulders and bust, accentuating the waist while also taking emphasis away from larger hips and bottoms, making it ideal for pear shapes and curvier frames.

STYLISH WRAP DRESS 13

PROJECT BY LOUISE NICHOLS | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE AN EASY DAY OF STITCHING

MAKE YOUR LITTLE ANGEL A

CUTE DRESS for those active playtimes

When it comes to making clothes for kids, the golden rule is: keep it simple. As our lovely model Betty has been only too happy to demonstrate, the beauty of this outfit is its flexibility and the fact that it allows for ease of movement!

Its neat A-line design sits just above the knee, so it won’t impede your little madam’s comings and goings, and if you opt for a busy pattern such as our lovely birdy style, you’ll be better able to conceal little marks as well as keeping your kiddie-wink pretty as a picture.

ESSENTIAL KIT COTTON PATTERNED FABRIC, 1M X 115CM WHITE COTTON THREAD HOOK AND EYES WHITE BUTTON

MEASUREMENTS: CUSTOM TO FIT; OUR PROJECT 52CM X 55CM

pattern from makeittoday.co.uk CUTTING GUIDE: Refer to online cutting layout for fabric placement Use a 1.5cm seam allowance, unless otherwise instructed Back Dress Piece (1): Cut Two Front Dress Piece (2): Cut One on Fold Front Facing (3): Cut One on Fold Back Facing Pieces (4): Cut Two Sleeve (5): Cut Four Pocket (6): Cut One

Make it Today!

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Cute Kiddie’s Dress 1 Go to makeittoday.co.uk and download the relevant pattern. Cut pattern pieces following the online fabric placement guide. Stay-stitch the bodice front and bodice back neck pieces 1.3cm from the edge. Sew the centre back seam of the dress from hem to dot. Backstitch at the dot to reinforce the seam, and press the seam open.

Stitch the dress front to the dress back at the shoulder seams. Press the seams open again.

2 Of the four sleeve pieces you have cut, two are to be used as facings. With the right sides together, sew the sleeves to the sleeve facings around the curved edge. Clip the curve and trim the seam.

Turn the sleeves through to the right side, press and baste the open edges together.

3 Stitch the back facing sections together from the hem to dot. Press the seam open. Stitch the front and back facings together at the shoulder seams, and press the seams open again.

4 With the right sides together, pin the front facing to the bodice around the neck, matching the centre and shoulder seams. Stitch around the neck. Clip the curves and trim the seam.

5 Turn through to the right side and press the neck seam. Pin the facing to the bodice to secure in place and top-stitch 0.3cm from the edge around the whole bodice, including the back opening.

6 Fold the armhole hems and armhole lining hems over by 0.5cm, then pin the sleeves in between the two, matching the dots and placing the centre dot at the shoulder seam, so the open sleeve

PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS/INTERMEDIATE | SHOULD TAKE A RELAXED WEEK OF STITCHING

REVITALISE YOUR WARDROBE WITH A DYNAMIC

JACKET, SKIRT AND TROUSER SET and step into the new season in style Power dressing is experiencing something of a renaissance on the back of shows such as The Fall, with retailers noting a spike in sales of silk and pencil skirt combos, all thanks to the ice-cool couture of iconic lead Gillian Anderson. McCall’s M6711 pattern pack gives you the choice of matching a semi-fitted jacket with either a pencil skirt or tapered trousers; heck, if you can’t decide, why not just make them all? These dynamic cuts are designed to elongate smaller legs and accentuate taller frames, drawing the eye away from any lumps and bumps, so you’ll be the envy of all, and more power to you!

JACKET, SKIRT AND TROUSER SET 21

PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A FEW HOURS OF STRIPY FUN

EARN YOUR STRIPES IN STYLE WITH A

FUNKY GEO TOP that will really have heads turning

Geo shapes are never far from the high street, constantly getting revitalised for cutting-edge statements. We’ve switched up the McCall’s M6711 top in your pattern pack with this Art Gallery Fabrics design by Jeni Baker. These succulent stripes of colour are the perfect complement to the flowing cut of this pattern, with its flattering V neck and shoulder lines, lending balance, contour and freshness to a timeless shape. Stay inside the lines!

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PROJECT BY CORINNE BRADD | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A CHILLED AFTERNOON OF PATCHWORK GOODNESS

GIVE YOURSELF THE HIPPIE SHAKES WITH THIS

patchwork tote bag that turns square into something groovy

Get the look! Hat £19.99 H&M, 0844 736 9000, Top £12.99 New Look, 0500 454 094, Jeans £35 Marks & Spencer, 0333 014 8555

Who’d have thought that a simple arrangement of little squares could lead to such a fabulous display of flower power? Corinne Bradd’s tote project is the perfect way to co-ordinate any loose ends of fabric that you might have lying around, and even if you don’t follow her particular colour arrangement too closely, you’re sure to be inspired by this bag’s psychedelic movement.

So stitch yourself a carrier that’s totes amazing and don’t forget: it’s hip to be square.

ESSENTIAL KIT COTTON PRINT FABRIC, THIRTY-TWO 9CM SQUARES WHITE COTTON FABRIC: 32CM X 62CM; 16CM X 75CM WHITE COTTON THREAD IRON

MEASUREMENTS: 30CM SQUARE FOR BAG BODY

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PROJECT BY CLAIRE-LOUISE HARDIE | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE THREE HOURS OF SEWING HEAVEN

GET YOURSELF WRAPPED UP IN THIS

CHIC KIMONO in just three short hours

For anyone new to sewing knits, this slouchy cardigan is made using three main pieces and has been designed to be a universally comfortable fit.

Stitched in your choice of neutral colour, it’s perfect for throwing over any outfit, or if you’re feeling adventurous, choose a printed knit for a stylish alternative. You’ll love how this quick make can be transformed into either a perfect cover-up kimono or a cosy slouchy cardigan by simply altering the fabric, and the best part is it can be sewn up in a stitchy afternoon.

CHIC KIMONO 53

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