Make It Today Dressmaker Issue 18

Dressmaker Make it Today!

CLASSIC Fit & Flare

PEPLUM

LOVE IT • STITCH IT • WEAR IT

READ IT • SHARE IT

12 EASY

Separates

& BONUS PULL-OUT

Pussybow Blouse

PARTY

PLEASERS...

HOW TO

CHEAT AT Couture p31 WINTER warmers

MAKE IN A DAY

CREATE A

skirt in LIBERTY

PRINT

GBSB

Charlotte Newland’s ALTERATION WORKSHOP

KNOW YOUR

OVERLOCKER Make It Today | Issue 18 | October 2016 | £7.99

11

FLATTERING STYLES

with your FREE

PATTERNS

A WARDROBE OF SEASONAL SEPARATES WITH TWO PATTERNS

G

et a head start on the new season with your two free gifts. Using McCall’s M6896, you can make five variations of a flattering peplum top that will see you through the changing weather. Opt for long sleeves on an autumn day, a sleeveless number for an evening out or a short sleeve for the office. Pair this with Butterick’s B5466 straight skirt, and you’re ready to go!

This easy-to-make pattern sits just above the knee and offers six styles, so you can select a shape that works for you. Get stitching and you’ll definitely start to look forward to the turn of the season!

Classic Skirts multi-sized for custom fit

What’s Your

SIZE?

If you would like a smaller size, alternative versions are available: B5466 (16-24), M6896 (16-24). Call Butterick at 0344 880 1263, quoting voucher code MIT5466 or MIT6896 to redeem your replacement pattern at half price (£4 for B5466 and £4.38 for M6896).

Offer valid until 4th November 2016.

4

Make It Today | Dressmaker

Easy Puplums five figure-friendly designs

Your FREE

GIFT Sculpt your silhouette with McCall’s M6896 close-fitting peplum tops.

Suitable for a variety of light-tomedium-weight fabrics, this design includes princess seams and neckline variations.

Butterick’s B5466 makes a classy semi-fitted straight skirt. Six options allow you to pick a style that nips you in at the right places, whether it be with darts, a raised waistband or a belt.

Don’t miss NEXT ISSUE...

On sale 11th November

makeittoday.co.uk

5

FASHION ON THE RATION

Evoking the spirit of the blitz, a new range of stitchy goodies aims to inspire dressmakers to make do and mend. As a tie-in with the Fashion on the Ration exhibition, this thrifty selection promotes the power of sewing in tricky times. Book & Scissors £5, Tote £8, iwmshop.org.uk

SHOP SMART

A brand-new treasure trove of fabrics and notions is open online.

Pick up a bargain at The PlainStitch Shop, featuring such delights as Tilda Memory Lane (pictured) and A Walk In The Glen by Lewis & Irene, as well as wadding, interfacing, machine accessories and cutting tools. plainstitchshop.com

make BUY

RING IN THE CHANGES WITH OUR AUTUMN ROUND-UP

HERE COMES THE NIGHT

As the nights draw in again, Maureen Cracknell’s playful designs will ensure that dressmakers continue to get their fix of AGF colour. Featuring selections such as Moonstories, Lunation (pictured) and Aura Fletchlings, this charming selection of owls, butterflies and bunnies will give your next makes a lovely luminosity. liveartgalleryfabrics.com

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Make It Today | Dressmaker

23/09/2016 11:28

IWt’rsapa !

ELASTIC FANTASTIC

High-quality interlining just got a revamp, thanks to the team at Vlieseline. With its soft, bi-elastic properties, the G770 is the perfect way to add shape, protection and staying power to waistbands and jacket fronts. £5.55 per metre, crafts@stockistenquiries.co.uk

FAVOURITE RIBBON TRENDS ON ETSY

HOLD IT TOGETHER

GIVE IT SOME JELLY In case you were wondering if you are ready for this jelly, we can assure you that you are.

Thornback & Peel’s candy pink cosmetic bag range, which also features rabbits and cabbages, adds a seasonal whimsy and can also stash habs and fabs. £22, thornbackandpeel.co.uk

Give your spools a retro treat with this lightweight iron storage unit, lovingly styled in the shape of a vintage sewing machine.

Measuring 24cm x 33cm and available in white or cream, it’s a classy way to keep your threads in order. £9, sassandbelle.co.uk

SEW PRETTY Stitchy ribbon with a ditsy motif. £3 per yard, Owlanddrum.etsy.com

LONDON FASHION WEEK FAVOURITE! FEELING FRUITY Get fresh with a melon trim. 85p per yard, TinTiaraTrims.etsy.com

ALWAYS IN VOGUE Celebrating

100 years of visionary fashion trailblazing, the Vogue colouring book gives stitchers a chance to personalise iconic couture creations. Grab your pens and switch up key pieces from the likes of Dior, Givenchy and Chanel, complete with fascinating style tips from the era.

Strike a pose! octopusbooks.co.uk

RETRO FRIENDLY Lovely embroidered autumn blooms. £9, VintageRibbons.etsy.com

JANOME DREAM TEAM

Providing even more reasons to be cheerful, Janome is marking the onset of autumn with some cool stitchy bargains.

You’ll find special deals on the versatile 24-stitch 2300XT and the robust 216-S (pictured), with plenty of other savings to be had on your next dream dressmaking machine. janome.co.uk

GO FLAMINGO Have you heard about the bird? £3 for five yards, HairBowCenter.etsy.com

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23/09/2016 11:29

your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte

EASY PEPLUMS FIT AND FRILL FOR A GORGEOUS FIGURE WINNER PROJECT DESIGNER

Jayne Cordle

· for beginners ·

I

f it’s good enough for Beyoncé and Balenciaga, it’s good enough for us!

The bold and classy style of our five-way peplum pattern, popularised by Dior and Westwood, deploys a pleated flounce to create a dreamy hip-to-waist ratio with an instant slimming effect. Sleek and sculptural, the M6896 selection is a chance to play with different necklines and sleeve lengths, invisible zips and princess seams, as well as contrast panels. Styled with a knee-length skirt or fitted trousers for a look that’s feminine and powerful, this is your perfect chance to pep it up! makeittoday.co.uk 13

PROJECT DESIGNER

Corinne Bradd

· for beginners ·

BOWLING

BAG C

AN EASY-MAKE ACCESSORY TO BRIGHTEN YOUR AUTUMN WARDROBE

reate a canvas bag with a handy side pocket and key loop to store your everyday essentials. This accessory is simple to construct and makes use of basic quilting techniques. Personalise with your choice of fabric, bias binding and handle covers.

We used leatherette discs, but why not opt for a contrasting colour or fabric? With this step-by-step project, you’ll be able to stitch a colourful essential in no time.

ESSENTIAL KIT Canvas, 1m Plain cotton, 1m Craft wadding, 2oz Fusible interfacing, 2oz Leatherette, scraps Thick yarn or soft rope Thread: pale coloured, extra strong Zip, 35cm

40 Make It Today | Dressmaker

BOWLING BAG

1

Download the template from makeittoday.co.uk. Add a 1cm seam allowance and cut two pairs from canvas, wadding and lining. Pin the panels and sandwich the wadding between the outside fabric and lining.

2

Draw a vertical line down the centre of each stack and top-stitch with pale thread. Set

a quilting bar to 2cm, then sew parallel lines either side of the centre to secure the layers.

Zigzag stitch the edges and trim away any excess material.

3

Create two pairs of shapes from canvas and lining for the gusset, 6cm x 36cm, and fuse interfacing to the canvas reverse. Sandwich one edge of the zip between the outer material and lining, right sides

together. Sew in place, then turn out and top-stitch 5mm from the seam. Repeat on the other side.

4

Cut two canvas shapes for the zip tabs, 4cm x 8cm, and fold in half, right sides together. Sew down both sides then turn out and top-stitch.

Tack the raw edge of the tabs to the zip ends.

TWEED

Find pattern online

CAP & SCARF

COMPLETE YOUR AUTUMN ATTIRE WITH A STYLISH WOOLLEN CLASSIC

F

or town and country jaunts, this season’s trending classic is sure to bring a touch of elegance to outdoors pursuits. Amanda Walker’s hat and scarf combo is the perfect union of cosy comfort and easy fashion kudos, and gives you the chance to flex your fingers with crafty peck (or peak) work and elastic sewing, as well as simple leather crafting. Find out just how quickly you can stitch a top tweed partnership with endless style potential

ESSENTIAL KIT Hat peck: Cut two Peck stiffener: Cut two Crown panel: Cut eight in main fabric, eight in lining Hat band: Cut a 60cm square strip, one in main fabric, one in lining Scarf: Use diagram online One-size hat and 40cm x 150cm scarf 1cm seam allowances

TWEED CAP AND SCARF

1

Download and cut out the pattern from makeittoday. co.uk. Stick together two pieces of pelmet stiffener, leaving the paper on the outer sides. Stitch around the outer edges of the peck pieces, right sides together. Peel the paper from one side of the stiffener and stick to the fabric, then turn peck right sides out.

Remove other paper and seal fabric in place.

2

Sew the main fabric crown panels together in two sections of four. To enable the points of the panels to join neatly, stop stitching 1cm from the top. Repeat this process for the lining pieces. Cover the button with leather and attach to the centre top of the crown panels.

3

Match the two short ends of the hat band and stitch,

22 Make It Today | Dressmaker

Tweed fabric, 80cm x 150cm Lining fabric, 50cm square Matching thread Soft leather, 20cm square Elastic, 2.5cm wide Pelmet stiffener, double-sided, 30cm Button, one for covering Adhesive, Copydex

then repeat for the lining.

Open the seam and press.

Match the seam on the band to the centre base of one of the crown panels, pin the remainder around the base and sew, then repeat for the lining. Pin the centre inside edge of the peck to the centre front point of the band.

Tack the peck to the band, then stitch.

4

Centre a 10cm length of elastic over the centre back seam of the band lining.

Stretch the elastic slightly and secure to the band by stitching.

Sew the remaining end in place, being careful to stitch it in the same place on the opposite side of the centre back seam.

5

Place the fabric hat in the lining, with the right sides of the lining facing. Match the centre back seams of the bands, pin around the edges and stitch, leaving a gap of 10cm to one side of the peck.

SEWING Case PATCHWORK A PRETTY CONTAINER FOR YOUR KIT

K

eeping a close eye on all your essential (but tiny) sewing bits and bobs can be a headache, which is why Corinne Bradd has come up with a simple carrier that’s sure to stand out in any stitcher’s studio!

This colourful combo of cotton fabrics is also a great way to utilise any leftover scraps, and you can concoct different patterns and shapes to represent all the pockets and straps. Tool up in style, and never again will you have to scour the sewing room for that pesky seam ripper!

ESSENTIAL KIT 2

Cut four strips of fabric, 4cm x 11cm. Fold one lengthways, right sides together, and stitch the long edge. Turn out the tube and flatten. Repeat for the other three. Pin and tack the strips across the top rectangle and one square to make straps.

4

3

5

Cotton fabric, six Co-ordinating thread Fibre filling Measurements: 8cm x 8cm x 18cm

SEWING CASE

1

Using an assortment of fabric colours, cut four rectangles, 9cm x 20cm, and two 9cm squares. Decide which rectangle will form the base of your carry-all and surround it with the other pieces, as you would like them to be sewn together.

Fold a fabric rectangle, 9cm x 12cm, in half lengthways, wrong sides facing, and tack the raw edges to the other square to make a pocket.

Cut a shape, 9cm by 20cm, fold lengthways with wrong sides facing and tack the raw edges to one side rectangle.

Top-stitch two lines to make three equal-sized pockets.

PROJECT DESIGNER

CORINNE BRADD

· for beginners ·

Check the orientation of each pocket and strap before sewing the squares to each end of the bottom rectangle, right sides together.

Stitch the rectangles to each other across the long edges, right sides together, to form a tube.

Pin and sew the pocket square to the short edges of the adjoining rectangles.

Do the same with the strapped square, leaving one edge unstitched. Turn the carry-all through the gap and stuff firmly. Fold in the raw edges and slip-stitch closed.

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rn

your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte

PROJECT DESIGNER

Jayne Cordle

· for beginners ·

Six Seasonal SKIRTS VERSATILE, SEMI-FITTED DESIGNS TO STITCH IN NO TIME

F

or an instant wardrobe lift, create Butterick’s B5466 straight skirt. The multi-sized design offers six variations and is compatible with a wide range of materials.

Make one in a pretty poplin print or tweed, and pair with a crisp blouse for instant office chic, or opt for a satin sheen for the evening. Each style is easy to make and is constructed with only three seams – perfect if you’re new to skirt sewing!

Techniques to ace with your free pattern include darts, princess seams, zip insertion, an optional waistband and a belt. If that’s not the perfect excuse to go fabric shopping, we don’t know what is.

makeittoday.co.uk 27

RAINBOW

TWIRL DRESS

PROJECT DESIGNER

A CELEBRATION OF COLOUR FOR YOUR TINY DANCER

P

retty, comfortable and oh-so-simple to make, this cheeky dress is perfect for spinning around at parties. All you need are two pattern pieces for the bodice and selection of multi-coloured panels for the skirt and trims. It’s a great way to practise your jersey stitching, and you can also use a woven fabric if you prefer. The elasticated waist makes it easy to get on and off, too. Just add funky leggings, a top hat and one energetic circus performer, and you're ready for the big top!

ESSENTIAL KIT Jersey fabric, eight colours for skirt, each 45cm square Dark jersey, blue, for bodice, 1m x 115cm Contrast jersey, three colours, for trims, 30cm square Co-ordinating thread Elastic, 2m x 0.5cm Tailor's chalk Measurement: Refer to online guide

Kirsty Hartley

· for beginners ·

RAINBOW TWIRL DRESS

1

Download the pattern from makeittoday.co.uk and cut the bodice front, back and skirt panels, varying the shades for a multi-coloured effect. For the collar and armhole trims, cut three 6.5cm-wide strips of contrast jersey across the width of the fabric.

2

Pin and sew the skirt panels along the side edges, right sides together, using a suitable stretch stitch. Use the same stitch to sew and overlock the shoulder and side seams of the bodice pieces, right sides together.

3

Lay the bodice flat and measure the armhole and neck opening. Reduce these measurements by 10 percent, and cut the fabric strips to these lengths. Pin and stitch the ends of each strip, right sides together, to form loops.

4 Front piece: Cut one Back piece: Cut one Skirt: Cut eight panels Consult the height, chest and waist charts online to find the best measurement for your dress. Note that this dress is unlined and finished at the neckline and armholes with welts. Seam allowances 1cm unless otherwise specified.

24 Make It Today | Dressmaker

Position and pin these loops to the neck opening and armholes, right sides together, making sure you match the underarm seams, and ease the loops to create a bit of stretch.

Sew using the same stretch stitch as before.

5

Pin the lower edge of the bodice to the top edge of the skirt, right sides together, easing into place if necessary, then use stretch stitch to sew and overlock along the edges.

Stitch the elastic to this seam, gently pulling to create a soft gather.

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