Make It Today Dressmaker Issue 19

Dressmaker Make it Today!

PARTY STYLE

WRAP TOP & SWING SKIRT

LOVE IT • STITCH IT • WEAR IT

READ IT • SHARE IT

LOVE YOUR PATTERN!

6 JERSEY

Classics

beginners can try

WAYS 20 TO STITCH YOUR Christmas

OUTFIT LAUREN

Guthrie’s

FESTIVE

FIXES P53

WEEKEND CHIC

TO FIT ANY SHAPE

Make It Today | Issue 19 | Nov-Dec 2016 | £7.99

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9

LUXURIOUS

LOOKS with your FREE PATTERNS

YOUR ESSENTIAL WINTER SEPARATES AND CHRISTMAS GLAMOUR

I

t’s the season to sparkle! If you’re looking to stitch yourself a special outfit, we’ve got you covered!

Butterick’s B6285, designed by the talented Gretchen Hirsch, offers a flattering wrap top and flirty skirt that oozes vintage luxe. So get shopping for satin, jersey and sequins, and you’ll be ready for your most glamorous Christmas yet! Whilst the party season is the perfect excuse to dress things up, we still need those all-important essentials to get us through the winter chill. Stitch up Butterick’s B6258 separates in a mixture of autumn colours and classic prints, and you’ll have all the layers you need!

Complete Outfit flattering fit for Christmas!

What’s Your

SIZE?

If you would like a different size, alternative versions are available: B6285 (14-22), B6258 (16-26). Call Butterick at 0344 880 1263, quoting voucher code MIT6285 or MIT6258 to redeem your replacement pattern at half price (£4.12 each). Offer valid until 9th December 2016.

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Make It Today | Dressmaker

Your FREE

GIFT Create a glamorous evening look for the festivities with Butterick’s B6285 by Gretchen Hirsch. Stitch a jersey wrap-top and a full satin or taffeta skirt, and you’re ready to go!

Butterick’s B6258 includes six separates that will see you through the changing seasons. Update your essentials wardrobe with an easy-sew cardigan, top, belt, dress, skirt and trousers.

Don’t miss NEXT ISSUE...

On sale 23rd December

Simple Sew

jersey essentials for beginners makeittoday.co.uk

5

LIBERTY CHRISTMAS KIT

If a Liberty-based sewing kit doesn’t rock your world during the festive season, we don’t know what will!

Alice Caroline’s new range, including a pretty patchwork stocking (pictured), comes with full templates and instructions to help you transform your studio into a winter wonderland. alicecaroline.co.uk

JUST THE TICKET

If you’re after gift ideas for that embroidery enthusiast, why not give them the regal treatment?

Pick up a voucher at the Royal School of Needlework for one of over 200 classes, including courses in goldwork and silk shading. It’s the perfect stitchy treat for your crafting couture queen. royal-needlework.org.uk

make BUY

SEASON’S STITCHY GREETINGS WITH FESTIVE TREATS GALORE

BELLE OF THE BALL

Returning by popular demand, some of Amy Butler’s very first fabric forays are back to dress up your Christmas creations! Perfect for pretty clutches, shawls and all manner of glam fashion flourishes, the deliciously moreish splendor of Gypsy Rose, featuring Turkish Paisley Nectarine and Grape Velvet Vine (pictured), is sure to be on every gal’s letter to Santa. amybutlerdesign.com

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Make It Today | Dressmaker

Ttwwiinnkkllee,

DRESS TO THRILL

Pull on a cozy jumper, pour a cup of tea and settle down at your sewing machine with The Avid Seamstress. Check out its new pattern The Raglan, launching soon, plus current faves such as the pretty Sheath and Day Dress (pictured), for a look to complete your festive wardrobe.

Patterns from £14.50, theavidseamstress.co.uk

FAVOURITE SPARKLY FINDS ON ETSY

FANCY THREADS

For when you need a break from your sewing, these pretty pots of loveliness from Red Berry Apple are spools’ gold. Sew Cute scented candles, in pink, red or blue, are sublimely stylish gifts of illumination. £12.95, notonthehighstreet.com

CELEBRITY CLOSETS Want to know what’s in Tommy Hilfiger’s closet?

Steal inspiration from all manner of models, designers and cultural icons with The Coveteur

by Stephanie Mark, co-founder of the popular website of the same name. You’ll never look at Hugh Hefner in quite the same way again! £22, abramsandchronicle.co.uk

PARTY PICKME-UP Give yourself the

gift of perfect party planning with these miniature marvels!

Fiskars Foldable Scissors offer peace of mind for little fashion emergencies when you’re on the go. No selfrespecting stitcher’s handbag should be without a pair. £5.99, fiskars.co.uk

PINK PRECISION Shiny beauties for colourful cuts. £38, TheCraftyMastermind.etsy.com

BUTTON BLING Funky pink beauties for parties. £2.50 for 10, HouseNumberTen.etsy.com

POCKET SILVER Lucky charms for stitchy sheen. £1.63 for six, OliviaMadisonCompany.etsy.com

ANIMAL CRACKERS

If you haven’t yet stashed up on dinosaur mittens and robin pyjamas for the little ones, it’s time you did!

The Cath Kidston Christmas range of fabric and ready-mades is your one-stop for jolly bedtimes and crazy creature comforts. Mittens £14, pyjamas £20, cathkidston.com

CREATURE COMFORTS Ride on time to be awesome! £15.50, madebylolly.etsy.com

makeittoday.co.uk

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Button-back

BLOUSE AN EASY LIBERTY MAKE WITH CASUAL ON-TREND ELEGANCE

W

ith every stitcher’s Christmas list sure to include at least a few Liberty prints, we thought it only fitting to showcase Amanda Walker’s easy button-back blouse design. Using just a handful of pattern pieces, it’s a quick way to flaunt your favourite fabric, and the cut guarantees a comfortable finish across a range of sizes. Follow straightforward dart and buttonhole techniques to make a pretty and practical fashion essential for all seasons!

2 Front: Cut one on fold Back: Cut one pair Back facing: Cut one pair in main fabric, one pair in interfacing Front neck facing: Cut one on fold in main fabric, one in interfacing Sleeves: Cut one pair This shirt is loose fitting 1.5cm seam allowances used throughout

ESSENTIAL KIT

Top Tip

Find pattern online

20 Make It Today | Dressmaker

Shorten the pattern to create a tunic or T-shirt top

Liberty fabric, 1.5m x 150cm Co-ordinating thread Fusible interfacing, 50cm Buttons, six

BUTTON-BACK BLOUSE

1

Download and cut out the pattern from makeittoday. co.uk. Iron interfacing on to the back and front neck facings. Match at the shoulders, pin and stitch, right sides together. Press seams open, then neaten the outside edges of the facings using zigzag stitch or overlocking.

Stitch darts into the front piece, sewing from the base to the points marked, then repeat for the back. Press the darts towards the centre front and back, then neaten the edges of the shoulders. Match the front and back shoulder seams, pin and stitch. Press seams open.

3

Place the joined front and back pieces flat, right sides uppermost. Lay the facing on top with the right side facing down, matching the necklines.

Pin and sew around the neckline and down each side of the opening. Clip the curved seam allowances and trim corner bulk. Under-stitch the neckline, stopping 4cm from each centre back edge.

4

Neaten the blouse side edges, then lay the back and front pieces together, right sides facing. Pin and sew the side seams, then press open. Add zigzag stitch or overlocking to the long sleeve edges, then a row of gathering stitches around the sleeve heads. Match, pin and sew the underarm sleeve seams, right sides facing. Press seams open and turn sleeves out.

5

After pulling the gathering threads slightly, place each sleeve into the blouse armhole. Match the side seams and the underarm sleeve seam, and the notch in

rn

your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte

PROJECT DESIGNER

Sarah Oecken

· for beginners ·

Swing Skirt & TOP EVENING GLAMOUR WITH A SOFT AND SILKY SILHOUETTE

E

ver since Dior pioneered the gravity-defying New Look, with its cinched waist and full drapes, the glamour potential of the hourglass has accentuated the curves of endless icons from Grace Kelly to Christina Hendricks. Butterick’s B6285 gives dressmakers the chance to fashion their own ‘fit and flare’ style, with its snug, self-lined wrap top and gathered skirt.

This figure-friendly combination is the brainchild of vintage maestro Gretchen Hirsch and is your chance to get to grips with side pockets, invisible zips and double box pleats, for a modern classic you can flaunt at every shindig. Take that and party!

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Skater

SKIRT

A COOL, CRISP STATEMENT PIECE FOR WALKING IN A WINTER WONDERLAND

F

or a look reclaimed from fifties cool to fresh displays of modern daywear, the skater style is the perfect addition to any capsule wardrobe. Amanda Walker’s no-pattern skirt is tailor-made to suit your shape, and enables you to practise concealed zip and waistband technique as well as play with bias binding to create a look that is truly individual as well as a perfect fit. Try black and white for timeless edge, or colourful bias binding for a playful twist!

ESSENTIAL KIT Skirt: Using online diagrams as a guide, cut two pieces on the fold, one each for the front and back, adding 1.5cm seam allowance to the side seams Waistband: Cut a 10cm-wide strip to your waist measurement, but add 1.5cm to one end and 3.5cm to the other for the hook and bar extension.

Cut another strip to the same dimensions in fusible interfacing.

1.5cm seam allowances used throughout

SKATER SKIRT

1

Find pattern online

Follow the guides and the diagrams at makeittoday. co.uk to calculate, draw and cut the pieces. Lay the front and back skirt together, right sides facing, matching side seams. Pin and stitch down one long side seam. Sew the other, leaving a 20cm gap at the top for the zip. Press seams open.

2

Fold and press the allowance along the two sides of the opening. With right sides facing, place the opened zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the allowance, and pin. Using a zipper foot or concealed

40 Make It Today | Dressmaker

Main fabric, 2m x 115cm Co-ordinating thread Bias binding, satin Fusible interfacing, medium weight, 20cm Concealed zip, 23cm Hook and bar

zipper foot, sew to the top of the side seam, leaving 2.5cm of the zip base unstitched, then sew the other side. Thread the pull to the right side and close.

Fold the zip to the wrong side in line with seam allowance and pin.

3

Iron the interfacing to the waistband. Neaten one long edge of the band. On the other, stitch a length of bias binding. Unfold the edges of the binding and press in half lengthways. As the binding needs to be visible, make sure it is 5mm from the raw edge of the waistband, then sew in place along the faint lines left by the fold.

4

Place the waistband around the edge of the waistline, right sides facing, with 1.5cm extending from the left side of the zip and 3.5cm from the right side for the hook. Pin around the top of the skirt, clipping the upper edge slightly so the band is flat around the waistline. Stitch the two together, sandwiching the binding in between, then seal the ends of the band.

A one-way stretch fabric makes this dress easier to sew, as the long side seams and underarm remain taut when stitching

GET THE LOOK! CLUTCH BAG £18, NEXT.CO.UK, SHOES £49.50, MARKSANDSPENCER.COM, BRACELET £12, JONRICHARD.COM

AMANDA WALKER, DESIGNER

AUTUMN ROSE

This beautiful rose-adorned jersey is super soft, so it’ll keep you toasty and on trend. makower.co.uk

TURN OVER TO FIND YOUR LOCAL STOCKIST

makeittoday.co.uk 23

ROBIN

Find pattern online

DRESS

A TWEET-SWEET FROCK FOR FESTIVE FROLICS

W

ith its joyful splash of Christmas colour and perky face details, this adorable dress brings a traditional favourite to life in style. Using just a handful of pattern pieces, it gives you the ideal chance to practise working with velvet or corduroy, and perfect your felt stitching and pocket-making skills. Furthermore, you can vary fabric colours to create all manner of birdy buddies. This is one rockin’ robin that you really can stitch tonight!

ROBIN DRESS

Front piece: Cut one on fold Back dress piece: Cut one on fold in main fabric, one in facing Face piece: Cut two Breast panel: Cut one Pocket: Cut one Strap: Cut four Decorative: Cut one beak, two eyes, two feet Consult the height, chest and waist charts online to find the best measurement for your dress. When following the lines for the correct size, include the side extensions for the dress back.

Seam allowances 1cm for main pieces, 2cm at hem.

ESSENTIAL KIT Cotton, corduroy or velvet, brown, 1m x 150cm Fabric, red, one fat quarter Cotton scraps, orange and beige Felt scraps, beige Adhesive fusible web, 30cm square Co-ordinating thread Elastic, 2m x 0.5cm Buttons, two Measurement: Refer to online guide

56 Make It Today | Dressmaker

PROJECT DESIGNER

Kirsty Hartley

· for beginners ·

1

Download the pattern from makeittoday.co.uk and cut the dress front, back and back facing, face piece and straps in brown fabric, checking the grain lines are parallel to the selvedge and the pile runs in the right direction. Cut a large breast panel and pouch pocket in red.

2

Bond adhesive web to the back of orange and beige cotton. Using the template, cut one beak and two eyes.

Peel off backing and arrange on the right side of one face piece, then press and sew around edges. Pin the two faces, right sides together. Sew around top edge, 1cm in. Snip allowances, turn out and press.

3

Press red breast panel under 1cm around side and bottom edges. Pin right side up to the right side of the brown dress front, and top-stitch.

Using the template, cut two beige felt feet. Pin to the dress front and sew through the centre of each strip, back-stitching at the ends.

4

Overlock the pocket edges.

Press under 2cm across the top, then top-stitch. Thread elastic through the channel, gather and secure at each end. Press under 1cm on the remaining edges, then pin to the right side of the dress front. Top-stitch side and bottom edges, 5mm in. Pin and sew the dress front and back, right sides together. Overlock the edges and press.

your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte

FIVE everyday

ESSENTIALS INSTANTLY BOOST YOUR WARDROBE WITH THESE QUICK JERSEY SEPARATES

PROJECT DESIGNER

Sarah Oecken

· for beginners ·

B

utterick’s B6258 offers a complete capsule collection in one pattern. Choose from a cardigan, top, dress, skirt and trousers, or why not make the lot? Each garment perfectly complements the other, so you can opt for a selection of co-ordinating prints and colours to create a polished look. When fabric shopping, select light-tomedium weight stretch materials such as jersey, ponte and sweater knits. These easy garments only require you to make friends with a zigzag stitch and the trusty ballpoint needle. Once you’ve mastered these basics, you’ll effortlessly stitch up the whole range in a matter of days!

makeittoday.co.uk 29

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