Make It Today Dressmaker Issue 20

Dressmaker Make it Today!

Easy-Wear Jersey Dress THAT’S PERFECT FOR BEGINNERS

YOUR

PATTERN SPECIAL

20 STYLISH

OUTFITS Layered BONUS PULL-OUT

Shift

SEW CLEVER...

How to Tackle

CLASSIC JACKET

IN SIMPLE STEPS FREE pattern for every entrant!

of the Year

TRICKY FABRICS

Rachel Pinheiro’s

BIAS CUTTING Masterclass

SPONSORED BY

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Make It Today | Issue 20 | Dec 16 /Jan 17 | £7.99

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FIGURE-FLATTERING Quick LOOKS Make with your FREE PATTERNS JERSEY STAPLES AND SIXTIES GLAM FOR VERSATILE CAPSULE STYLE

S

ew yourself a retro number for the new year with Simplicity’s 3833 pattern. Its four-way shift offers a modern take on the classic A-line dress – pick from a long, short or sleeveless style. Plus, it’s ideal for everything from cotton to sateen, so you’re bound to already have a fashion-forward fabric you can use. Or, if you fancy a figure-hugging look, create Burda’s 6910 dress; simply opt for a bold print to make a statement. This versatile pattern includes a long-and short-sleeve top, which is perfect to slip on with a pair of jeans. Whether you’re heading to a fancy event, hitting the shops or relaxing at the weekend, these patterns have got you covered!

Your

free gifts FIND YOUR PATTERN SIZE AT SIMPLICITYNEWLOOK.COM 4

Make It Today | Dressmaker

Sew in an evening!

Patterns of the month

50% off

Simplicity 8055 includes four classy designs. Choose from a short or threequarter sleeve dress, overcoat and jacket with full-length raglan sleeves.

Sew 1960s flair with Simplicity 1609. Four sleeveless dresses include finishes such as a scalloped collar, bow and buttons.

Get Simplicity 8055 and 1609 for the special price of £4.08 each, plus 85p P&P (RRP £8.15 each) from simplicitynewlook.com and quote code MAKE8055 for 8055 or MAKE1609 for 1609.

Offer valid 23rd December 2016 to 26th January 2017.

Retro Glamour Easy shift for the new year

Next month’s

FREE PATTERNS...

On sale 26th January

makeittoday.co.uk

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FESTIVAL SPIRIT Indulge your passion for vintage dressmaking with a visit to the Festival of Fabric, hosted by Felixstowe Sewing School. Get invaluable stitching advice with a sewing workshop, treat yourself to some patterns and notions, and don’t forget a slice of something heavenly! £3, 19th February 2017, festivaloffabric.co.uk

PATCHWORK PLEASURES Fresh from the realms of Lucille Ginger and Flowercloud Teal comes a dynamic duo of patchworking treats for animal lovers. Tilda Cabbage Rose companion kits give stitchers a puzzling choice: bunny or squirrel? Probably best to get both. groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

make BUY NEW YEAR GOODIES FOR YOUR NEXT DRESSMAKING FIX

CAMEO APPEARANCE

Capturing the enigmatic serenity of the Far East, infused with a splash of Deco quirk, Amy Butler’s Cameo is perfect for Chinese New Year. Vivid and intriguing, this joyful selection of prints, featuring paisley jamboree Josephine’s Bouquet and velvety indigo Forget Me Not Midnight, is a transcendent set of prints for new stitching horizons. amybutlerdesign.com

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Make It Today | Dressmaker

PPlreeatttys

TWO’S COMPANY For a fun dressmaking project that’s bang on

trend, Tilly’s cool Cleo is your ticket to figureflattering nirvana. This combi dungaree and pinafore is perfect in soft denims and pastel corduroys. If it’s good enough for Cate Blanchett, it’s good enough for us! Pattern £12.50, sewing kit. £40, shop.tillyandthebuttons.com

FAVOURITE FRILLY FINDS ON ETSY

STYLE CHALLENGE

GOOD GOLLY, MISS MOLLY It’s a girl’s world, and it’s time to play! Little ones

Advisor to Princess Diana, Vogue’s Anna Harvey is now reaching out to baby boomers everywhere to sprinkle a little fashion fairy dust on those all-important sartorial selections. Candid, colourful and crammed full of wisdom, Timeless Style is like having a really stylish fairy godmother whispering in your ear. £13, double-barrelledbooks.com

TRIO OF POUCHES Groovy purse pattern in three chic styles. £4.50, sewingwithme3.etsy.com TIE SPY Cool cravat with a Nouveau twist. £20, TieTandem. etsy.com

POOCHY PLEATS Pretty polka dots for perky pups. £65, littledogfashion. etsy.com

will love playing stitchy dress-up with this cute fabric doll maker, which has everything you need to make your own miniature miss. Sew Your Own Molly Doll, £8.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

TARDIS TREASURE

Ladies looking to improve their leather work are in luck: the Tardis purse kit is the quickest way to whip up a stylish, softgrained purse with oodles of space for all your cards, coins and notes. With full instructions, it’s a sumptuous, scissor-free treat. Tardis Purse Kit, £20, simpleway.co.uk

DEDICATED FOLLOWER OF FASHION Calling all style-conscious stitchers:

Brother’s shapely Innov-IS 55 Fashion Edition is tailor-made to keep your dressmaking projects spick and span, with a masterful array of features plus a Creative Sewing Kit, worth £59.99, to help you tackle togs with confidence. Innov-is 55FE, £449, brothersewing.co.uk

FLOWER POWER Hot pink bloom with pearl fastening. £5.60, TreasuredAdornment.etsy.com CHILD’S PLAY Reversible fruity frills for trendy toddlers. £28, Bobtails Boutique. etsy.com

makeittoday.co.uk

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your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte

PROJECT DESIGNER

Sarah Oecken

· for beginners ·

JERSEY

TOPS & DRESS

A COLLECTION OF FLATTERING, UNDERSTATED WARDROBE STAPLES

J

oin the jersey party with Burda’s 6910, which offers a comfortable short or long sleeve top and dress. Create go-to garments in colours that you’ll wear all year round, or opt for an energising print to make a statement. This easy-sew pattern is suitable for two-way stretch jersey only, so be sure to check your fabric when shopping. To make these stylish designs, get acquainted with a twin needle, zigzag stitches and elasticated seams. An overlocker is recommended for best results, but isn’t essential. If you’re sewing jersey for the first time, this is a great starter pattern, as it’s simple to follow and includes helpful diagrams.

TURN OVER FOR MORE makeittoday.co.uk 13

Fold and press a 3cm sleeve hem and base hem, then hand-stitch.

Make three buttonholes on the right-hand side jacket and sew three buttons on the left. Stitch the shoulder pads in place. Attach the ends of the facing shoulder seams to the shoulder pads to stop the facing rolling out.

COOL SHOULDER The shoulder pads can be stitched in by hand or machine. Position the straight edge around the seam of the armhole and sew in place using the stitching line as a guide, giving a professional roll to the head of the sleeve.

GET THE LOOK! TOP ￡7.99, H&M (HM.COM), BAG ￡18, SHOES ￡25, DEBENHAMS.COM, TROUSERS FROM A SELECTION AT MARKSANDSPENCER.COM

7

VISCOSE BLEND BOUCLE MINT RAINBOW

Soft and breathable, this gentle boucle blend is ideal for fitted jackets, and its fresh mint and mixed-colour canvas suits all skin tones. £20 per metre, trurofabrics.com

Why not try?

TWILL OR TWEED

Textured tweed such as Tartan Wool Red can give a sturdy and insulated shape to jackets. For a looser shape and softness, try Floral Stretch Twill. From £12.50 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

makeittoday.co.uk 41

ur free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern

PROJECT DESIGNER

Jayne Cordle

· for beginners ·

Make it

IN A DAY!

Sixties SHIFT MAKE A BEELINE FOR AN A-LINE TO FLATTER EVERY SHAPE

P

eace out for a look that’s groovy, baby! This easy shift pattern, with its cool contours and relaxed stitching style, is a chic homage to the freedom and flair of the Swinging Sixties. Simplicity’s 3833 is the chance to show off your pretty pins and nimble needlework as you get to grips with discreet darts, invisible zips and a groovy back-button belt. Sewn with short or long sleeves, our easy A-line treat is comfy, form-friendly and the perfect showcase for bold fabric designs that will have you looking like you’ve stepped off the hallowed cobbles of Carnaby Street. For a simple stitch that’s a retro delight, this dreamy frock is out of sight!

32 Make It Today | Dressmaker

yo

PROJECT DESIGNER

Mariko nakamura

· for beginners ·

Discover more makes...

THE KNOWLEDGE

Slip-stitches create a near-invisible join. Starting at the right-hand side of the fabric, bring the thread out from inside, just below the folded edge. Make a tiny stitch 1cm along.

Pick up a couple of threads of the material, then sew down diagonally, coming out in line with the first stitch. Repeat to sew the rest in place.

This project is taken from Sew Japanese by Mariko Nakamura, with full-size patterns included (£16.99, Pavilion) pavilionbooks.com

makeittoday.co.uk 49

Rose JACKET EMBROIDERED DENIM UPCYCLE FOR A VELVETY SOFT FINISH

Find template online

A

rose by any other name would smell as sweet, so why not embellish your much-loved denim wear with this stylish stitchy extra? Follow this project by Corinne Bradd using a simple template, silken threads and a bit of velvet to craft a colourful collection of pretty petals you won’t stop stroking.

Trust us, everything’s coming up roses!

ESSENTIAL KIT Embroidery threads, various Velvet, red and green Fusible interfacing

ROSE JACKET

1

Trace the templates at makeittoday.co.uk. Press the velvet pieces on the wrong side before adding the interfacing. Wind your bobbin with red or green thread and set to a short, narrow zigzag stitch, then machine-stitch around the outlines. Cut out the shapes close to the stitching.

2

Using two strands of embroidery thread, sew a border inside the zigzag on each leaf with back-stitch. Add veining using a lighter thread.

Sew small yellow crosses in the centre of each flower. Add stamens, then radiating lines of deep red. Work satin stitch around each petal in lighter shades of pink.

3

Pin the flowers and leaves to the back of the jacket.

Over-sew the velvet shapes with coloured threads, tucking raw edges underneath. Use a long, sharp needle to stitch through several layers.

4

Trace around the leaf templates with a soft green chalk pencil to add shadows.

Use three strands of thread to sew parallel lines of running stitch inside each shape, keeping the direction the same for each. Trace tendrils from the flowers to the sides, and sew over the lines with three strands of pink thread.

60 Make It Today | Dressmaker

Fold and press a 3cm sleeve hem and base hem, then hand-stitch.

Make three buttonholes on the right-hand side jacket and sew three buttons on the left. Stitch the shoulder pads in place. Attach the ends of the facing shoulder seams to the shoulder pads to stop the facing rolling out.

COOL SHOULDER The shoulder pads can be stitched in by hand or machine. Position the straight edge around the seam of the armhole and sew in place using the stitching line as a guide, giving a professional roll to the head of the sleeve.

GET THE LOOK! TOP ￡7.99, H&M (HM.COM), BAG ￡18, SHOES ￡25, DEBENHAMS.COM, TROUSERS FROM A SELECTION AT MARKSANDSPENCER.COM

7

VISCOSE BLEND BOUCLE MINT RAINBOW

Soft and breathable, this gentle boucle blend is ideal for fitted jackets, and its fresh mint and mixed-colour canvas suits all skin tones. £20 per metre, trurofabrics.com

Why not try?

TWILL OR TWEED

Textured tweed such as Tartan Wool Red can give a sturdy and insulated shape to jackets. For a looser shape and softness, try Floral Stretch Twill. From £12.50 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

makeittoday.co.uk 41

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