Make It Today Dressmaker Issue 21

Dressmaker Make it Today!

2-Hour GILET

YOUR

PATTERN SPECIAL

10 Easy Makes,

SPRING STYLES

Easy Wear

FOR EVERY

SHAPE

FIGURE IT OUT

How to Pick a

MANNEQUIN

6 DESIGNS FUSS-FREE,

STRETCHY

TILLY WALNES

SEW LIKE A PRO Issue 21 £7.99 | Feb 17

11

STYLISH SPRING

LOOKS with your FREE PATTERNS JERSEY ESSENTIALS AND CUTE LAYERS FOR YOUR SEASONAL WARDROBE

Y

our three free patterns are sure to put a spring in your step! Simplicity’s 1072 offers six stretch-knit designs, including a top, skirt and trousers. These versatile looks are ideal for dressing up or down. Simply opt for a colour and pattern, or even have some fun with a sequin finish, to create the desired effect. When cold weather outstays its welcome, Simplicity’s 8219 gilet and scarf is perfect for stylish layering.

This pattern is suitable for faux fur, denim, corduroy and more, so you can mix it up with your fabric selection. What’s more, you can sew one up in just two hours! Choose from three vest lengths and a co-ordinating cowl for extra warmth. Plus, stitch spring numbers with your free pull-out pattern and template downloads.

WHAT’S YOUR SIZE?

When selecting a pattern size, it is important to use your body measurements, not your ready-to-wear size.

The style of the garment will also determine the fit, so check your proportions against the pattern’s chart. If you are between sizes, opt for the smaller one if you’re small-boned or would like a close fit, and the larger one if you prefer a loose fit. Find out how to take accurate measurements, increase the size of a dart, and view size charts at simplicitynewlook.com.

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Make It Today | Dressmaker

YOUR free

Essential Layers Wear all year round

PATTERNS Stitch jersey essentials that work for every occasion with Simplicity’s 1072.

This versatile pattern includes six easy-to-sew looks, and tips on how you can make a statement with a sequin or leather panel.

Simplicity 8219 offers three gilet styles and a cosy cowl. These beautiful layers can be made in a variety of materials, so they’re perfect for every season.

Plus, you can stitch one up in just two hours!

Next month’s

FREE PATTERNS...

On sale 9th March

Download pattern at makeit today.co.uk makeittoday.co.uk

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A STITCH IN TIME It takes two to make it out of sight, as we gear up for a double helping of craft show goodness, with Make It and Knit & Stitch It showcasing the latest designs and techniques. This is one weekend break you won’t want to miss 24th and 25th February 2017, make-it.org.uk

PUPPY LOVE

Cuddle up with the new Cath Kidston collection and satisfy your canine cravings with this celebration of all things poochy.

Whether your passion is pugs, terriers or whippets, there’s something here to delight all dog-lovers. Dogs Tea Towel, £8, cathkidston.com

make BUY STITCHY HEART-WARMERS YOU’RE SURE TO FALL FOR

TO MY HEART’S DESIRE Wrap yourself up in loveliness with a heart-felt selection of ribbons from Berisfords, a delectable pairing of sheers and confetti hearts offering the ultimate romantic flourish for garments and accessories. This could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship. 75p per metre, berisfords@stockistenquiries.co.uk

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Spring Prints

GOOD DAY, FUN SHINE

Juicy zingy splashes of lemon, cherry and tangerine saturate the canvas of Caroline Hulse’s Here Comes The Fun. This dynamic range of street art-inspired cubics and florals, featuring the likes of Sprayed Doodles Coral and Happy Whisper, is a glorious celebration of sunshine-soaked mural medleys. artgalleryfabrics.com

CELEBRATE WITH BRITISH WILDLIFE

STYLE OF THE CENTURY

ALL THAT JAZZ Calling all lovers of Gatsby and Gilda Gray: the

Strike a pose with this achingly stylish memoir

by Alexandra Shulman.

Capturing the highs and lows of Vogue’s centenary year, the indefatigable editorin-chief lifts the lid on every chaotic couture moment – in the best possible taste, of course. £11.99, penguin.co.uk

American Museum is giving you the chance to revisit the fashion heydays of the roaring twenties with a special jazz age retrospective. Anything goes, so lose yourself in flapper fringing and beading in abundance. From 18th March 2017, americanmuseum.org

DEER IN THE FOREST Delicate doe-eyed wonder amongst the trees. 4286/N60

BUTTERFLIES Uplifting flutterings in tangerine dreams. 4280/N35

SEED HEADS Reflective tessellations in mellow yellow. 7897/Y15

50 SHADES OF ORANGE

Happy birthday to the ubiquitous orange-handled scissor: this year, it is 50 years old!

Astonishingly, this domestic dressmaker’s staple has sold over one billion pairs since it first burst on the scene, and has since become a part of creative history in every household. fiskars.co.uk/billion-stories

FIELD MICE Squeaky adventures with poppies and daisies. 4282/Q30

TOTALLY TILLY

Say hello to Zadie, the twisty new sewing pattern with the playful Z-shaped pocket feature. Lovers of cult favourite Coco will adore this versatile tunic with its figure-flattering zigzag and colour-blocking potential. All hail, the latest classic from the House of Buttons! £12.50, shop.tillyandthebuttons.com

CRAZY SQUARES Cheerful chunky hues in the shades of nature. 4285/Y65 See the full range at makower.co.uk Turn to p24 for our stockist guide

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your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte

Make it in a day!

classic QUICK

FITS

FUSS-FREE, FASTEN-FREE TOPS AND SKIRTS

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hoever said a class act couldn’t be a quick fix? As we gear up for the promise of sunny days spent in the great outdoors, juggling office smarts with everyday casuals as well as spring break staples, we need a wardrobe that can adapt and bend to our changing fashion fancies. Simplicity’s 1072 separates enable you to quickly switch up your look with simple, classic lines designed to flatter in moments. Following the easy pattern instructions, you’ll soon be a whiz at stitching with stretch fabrics and elastic as you make easy styles for every figure, every event, every day.

For a fashionable finish every time, this collection is your ticket to the perfect fit.

PROJECT DESIGNER

jayne cordle

· for beginners ·

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your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte The skirt requires care around the casing band, as it is a snug fit for the elastic. Stick to the seam allowance when stitching, otherwise the elastic may not slide through or might turn over in the casing, making the skirt uncomfortable to wear

JAYNE CORDLE, DESIGNER

BROKEN CHEVRON FEATHERS

This flattering Ponte Roma gives a figure-hugging yield and recovery, plus its striking design (also available in white and coffee) helps to elongate the leg. £9.95 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk

Why not try?

OPTION B, SIMPLICITY 1072

Accentuate a slimming pencil with vertical lines and chevrons

Simplicity’s 1072 pencil skirt pattern is perfect for all types of jersey, whether your preference is an understated monochrome ditsy, a more robust petal detail or a vibrant peacock paisley.

From £9.99 per metre, doughtysonline.co.uk

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your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte

PROJECT DESIGNER

sarah Oecken

· for beginners ·

Spring LAYERS TOP OFF THE NEW SEASON WITH EASY OUTERWEAR ESSENTIALS

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ny gal worth her salt knows that British springtime can be a nippy affair, so extra layers are crucial. Still, stitching for comfort doesn’t have to mean dropping fashion points. This three-way gilet and scarf pattern lets you layer up without having to dress down. Simplicity’s 8219, made with a reinforced lining and easy fastenings, gives you a chance to sew with wool, tweed, fleece and fur, so you can expand your dressmaking horizons as well as your wardrobe. The real beauty is how quickly you can put one together, so wrap yourself up in a practical weekend make with versatile style appeal. Celebrate the gilet!

Sew

it in TW

O HOURS !

makeittoday.co.uk 33

Wrap front

BLOUSE PROJECT DESIGNER

Amanda Walker

· for beginners ·

SEW A STYLISH LIGHTWEIGHT TOP FOR SPRING DAYS

S

tep into the new season with a breezy make by Amanda Walker – ideal for layering over a vest, with jeans and pumps for chic comfort. This design takes the asymmetric line from your hemline to your tee to create a unique wardrobe staple. Practise simple stitches and techniques such as making bias binding. Plus, there are no fussy fastenings, so you can delve into your fabric stash and get started right away!

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Front: Cut one pair in fabric and one pair in lining Back: Cut one on fold in fabric Sleeve: Cut one pair in fabric 1.5cm seam allowances used throughout unless otherwise stated

ESSENTIAL KIT Fabric, 1.5m x 150cm Lining, 1m x 150cm Co-ordinating thread

WRAP FRONT BLOUSE

1

Use the cutting guide and template on the pull-out to prepare the panels. Pin the front fabric and lining pairs, right sides together.

Sew the slanted edges and the base. Trim the corners, turn out and press.

2

With right sides facing up, lay the front right panel over the left, matching the necklines and shoulders.

Pin and sew the four layers around the front neckline with a 1cm seam allowance.

Clip the allowance and turn the left side over the right.

Under-stitch around the neckline and top-stitch, 2.5cm from the slanted front edges and across the base of both front panels. Cut a bias strip from fabric, 4cm x 30cm.

Fold and press 1cm on either side of the strip or use a bias binding folder.

4

Pin and sew the bias binding around the neckline.

Fold the binding over the wrong side of the neckline, pin and edge-stitch, sandwiching the raw neckline inside. Trim any excess at the shoulders.

5

Neaten the back and front shoulders with an overlocker or zigzag-stitch, securing the overlapping pieces together. Pin and sew the shoulders together, and press the seams. Turn and press the base of the back piece by 1cm, then another 2.5cm.

6

Pin the front pieces over the back, right sides together. Pin and sew the side seams, then neaten the seam allowances. Line the base of the front panels up with the 2.5cm press line on the back piece. Wrap the back hem around the base of the side seam, leaving the fold in place.

Top Tip

Mix the colour of the fabrics on the left and right to create a striking contrast

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Tweed

next and stitch with a 1cm seam allowance, right sides together. Press, then top-stitch 5mm from the original seam.

SATCHEL FIND YOUR HIGHLAND HAPPY WITH A HERITAGE CLASSIC

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s the vogue for Harris tweed drapes the season in tartan tones, Corinne Bradd’s pretty bag design is the perfect way to get loved up with textural variations. Versatile and practical, this simple stitch is a classy homage to heritage and a great chance to play with patchwork and leather sewing.

Easily finished with buckles and handy pockets as well as an adjustable strap, this sweet celebration of checks and herringbone is sure to become your favourite highland fling.

Find template online

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ESSENTIAL KIT Template front: Cut one on fold in main and lining Template back: Cut one on fold in main and lining Gusset section: Cut leather strip, 4cm x 80xcm Pocket: Cut two in both main and lining fabric Use 1cm seam allowances unless otherwise specified

Fabric pieces, wool, various Printed canvas, 0.5m Co-ordinating thread, strong Leather strip, mid-weight, 4cm x 80cm Soft leather strap, adjustable Buckles and clasps

TWEED SATCHEL

1

Cut varying sizes of wool tweed and arrange to cover an area around 45cm x 75cm.

Place uppermost fabric 5mm inside the lower edge of the

2

Repeat until you create a patchwork blanket measuring at least 40cm x 70cm. Download the template at makeittoday.co.uk and use a chalk pencil to trace around front and back pieces on the wrong side of the fabric, then add a 1cm seam allowance when cutting. Repeat for the canvas lining.

3

For the inside pocket, cut canvas, 23cm x 30cm, and fold in half, right sides together.

Sew the sides and bottom, leaving a gap. Clip corners and turn out. Top-stitch the folded edge, tuck in and pin closed.

Fasten to the centre back of the large lining piece and top-stitch around three sides.

4

Cut two canvas pockets, 10cm x 12cm, and two tweed, 12cm x 14cm. Lay each canvas piece on the wrong side of the tweed. Fold along the top edge and sew. Tuck and pin the other sides. Glue a buckle magnet to each pocket and sew. Arrange the pockets on the front patchwork and top-stitch.

KIMONO tie dress STITCH A SOPHISTICATED DRAPED STYLE

T

his project pairs two of our favourite garments: a kimono and a dress in one, what’s not to love?

Treat yourself to a classy number that is comfortable to wear and accessorise. There are no fussy fixtures, so the design is easy to assemble in a weekend. The tie feature adds elegance and shape at the waist, so if you want to accentuate this area, simply opt for a solid colour.

ESSENTIAL KIT

PROJECT DESIGNER

Crêpe, 1.5m x 2.5m Lightweight fusible interfacing, 20cm

Amanda Walker

· for beginners ·

2 Front and back dress: Cut one of each on fold Front and back neck facing: Cut one of each on fold, in both fabric and fusible interfacing Sleeve: Cut one pair Ties: Cut one pair 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated

KIMONO TIE DRESS Download the template

1

from makeittoday.co.uk and use the guide to cut out the panels. Attach interfacing to the wrong side of the front and back neck facings. Pin and stitch the back and front facings across the shoulders, with right sides together.

Neaten the edges of the shoulder seams. Pin the front and back dress pieces, right sides together. Stitch the shoulder seams and press the seam allowances open.

Lay the dress flat, with right sides facing up, and place the joined neck facing on top, right side facing down.

3

Pin the shoulder seams and necklines together, then sew around the neckline. Clip the seam allowances around the curve and under-stitch the neckline. Lay the dress flat, with right sides facing up, and match the shoulder notch on the sleeve to the end of the dress shoulder seam.

4

Pin and stitch the sleeve into the armhole. Neaten the seam allowances across the top of the arm and repeat for the other side. Fold the ties in half lengthways, matching the two long edges and shaped ends. Pin and sew, leaving the straight end open.

5

Clip the points, turn the ties out and press flat. Pin the two ties, as indicated on the

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pattern, and stitch in place. Join the side seams of the dress and underarms, then sew from the base of the dress up to the sleeve ends, sandwiching the ties in the seam.

6

Neaten the seam allowances and press towards the back of the garment. Tidy the ends of the sleeves and base of the dress.

Fold, press and hand-stitch a 3cm hem. Slip-stitch the facing in place and secure the shoulder seams of the facings to those of the dress.

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