Make It Today Dressmaker Issue 23

D ressmaker 3-Hour Make it Today!

DRESS

MADE BY YOU!

EASIEST

Ever Top READY FOR THE

WEEKEND

Sew with confidence...

BINDING & GATHERING FRENCH SEAMS PATTERN FITTING

YOUR FREE

PATTERNS IN

8-22

18+ EASY OUTFITS & BONUS PULL-OUT Chiffon Blouse

Issue 23 £7.99 | APRIL 17

Catwalk

COOL

How to copy the looks you love

PLUS

Sewing Angels...

Charity fundraisers share their secrets

10

CHIC STYLES

with your

FREE

PATTERNS CASUAL CUTS AND GORGEOUS STATEMENT LOOKS FOR SPRING

J

ump into the new season with your free patterns from Simplicity. Bring a fashionable flair to smart separates with Simplicity’s 3506. These easy-to-sew pieces are ideal for the office, and can be made in a variety of materials. The collection includes everything from tops to skirts, which are perfect for coordinating sets and statement pieces. For weekend style, Simplicity’s 1280 is your go-to pattern. Choose from five variations of beautiful blouses, including a wrap-front, sleeveless and asymmetric line. These designs call for lightweight materials, such as cotton lawn and satin, which makes this a perfect sew for spring and summer. Plus, if you fancy flexing your jersey skills, why not stitch yourself some leggings?

WHAT’S YOUR SIZE?

When selecting a pattern, it is important to use your body measurements, not your ready-to-wear size. The style of the garment will also determine the fit, so check your proportions against the pattern’s chart. If you are between sizes, opt for the smaller one if you’re small-boned or would like a close fit, and the larger one if you prefer a loose fit. Find out how to take accurate measurements, increase the size of a dart, and view size charts at simplicitynewlook.com.

4

Make It Today | Dressmaker

YOUR free

PATTERNS

Simplicity 1280 delivers a selection of stylish tops and leggings for spring and summer.

Choose from a wrap finish, draped sleeves or an on-trend asymmetric line.

Whether you make yours in cotton lawn or crêpe de chine, you’ll want to wear this comfy number time after time.

Simplicity 3506 offers a capsule collection of separates, including tops, trousers, a skirt, jacket and dress. If you’ve got a stash of fabric to use and want to make those essential pieces, this is an ideal pattern.

Next month’s FREE GIFTS...

On sale 18th May 2017

pattern, plus felt accessory kit! makeittoday.co.uk

5

FOXY FROCKS

Crafty Fox’s East London fashion and textile event is back! Featuring a wealth of creative workshops and original pieces, as well as guest curation by Lisa Comfort, the popular Bethnal Green spring market is sure to be abuzz with bright-eyed and bushy tailed stitchers.

6th May 2017, craftyfoxmarket.co.uk

CIRCUS COMES TO TOWN

The latest Tilda range has us all dreaming of running away to the circus!

Enter the big top, and surround yourself in the playful, vibrant hues of elephants and giraffes, with fabric bundles, kits, patterns and whimsical haberdashery galore. groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

make BUY

LOADS OF STITCHY DELIGHTS FOR SUNSHINE DAYS

HERE COMES THE SUMMER

Yummier than a glass of fresh lemonade, the Sweet Summertime Peplum and Dress is a beginner’s dream with a fitted waist and cap sleeves. Choose from a multi-hem tunic or gathered frock for a splash of sunshine in voile or quilted cotton. For stockists, contact hantex.co.uk

6

Make It Today | Dressmaker

Libfoerrtayll!

TOP ETSY TREATS WITH OUR FAVE FABRIC CHAIN GANG Fab floral bling in Rossmore. £17.50, themessybrunette. etsy.com

HANDS UP, BABY

Skincare is very important to us here at Stitchy HQ. Luckily, The Soap Kitchen’s special Handmade range of creams, made from sunflower and borage seed oil, can keep your mitts in tip-top condition.

Choose from Rose Geranium, Lavender or Vitamin E. £6.25 thesoapkitchen.co.uk

SAGE ADVICE

Inspired by the delights of desert blooms, Sage by Bari J creates a wilderness of tangy lemons, limes and grapes. Take a trip into the great outdoors with a fabric collection that includes Sunset Canyon, Cactus Flora Berry and Coyote Quail. hantex.co.uk/agf

BALENCIAGA BEAUTY

One of the most influential designers of the last century is the subject of a unique exhibition at the V&A this summer. Celebrating the revolutionary shapes of Cristobal Balenciaga, pieces will range from the baby doll and the shift to a pair of gardening shorts!

Shaping Fashion, 27th May, vam.ac.uk

THINK PINK Doing your bit for charity

is a snip with these glam Dressmaker Shears from Ernest Wright. For each sale of their seriously pretty ‘side-bent’ scissors, a sum will be donated to Breast Cancer Care.

Who said being good had to be hard work? £40, ernestwright.co.uk

HELLO, BOYS!

Stand by your man! So says The Royal School of Needlework, which is launching a campaign to debunk the myth that only women enjoy embroidery. With short courses, diplomas and tutoring programmes, we reckon fellas will get the point. royalneedlework.org.uk

SNAP TO IT Top Tana Lawn for Toddlers. £3.20 for two, thebobbyco. etsy.com

SEW ME A BOW Mitsi make for blossom buddies. £27, croquemonsieur.etsy.com

BUTTON BRACELET Rainbow blend of dainty ditsies. £16, minibuds. etsy.com

COSMETIC PURSE Fresh green floral tones for make-up. £18, modernandvintage. etsy.com

makeittoday.co.uk

7

rn

your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte

EASY weekend

WEAR DAY AND NIGHT CASUALS FOR EVERY FIGURE

T

hat first glimpse of summer sunshine will have us all plotting our next trip, but with thoughts of travel comes the need for comfortable pieces that make us feel and look amazing.

British Vogue’s take on a weekend break wardrobe involves relaxed fits and smart separates for layering. Simplicity’s 3506 pattern is perfect for these suitcase styles, with its smart blazer, lightweight trousers, long skirt, easy top and chic dress. Using yoke, darting and elastic skills, you can fashion the ultimate weekend coordinates. Just add a shirt, statement scarf or necklace to these practical yet elegant pieces, and you’ll be packing like a pro. Travel light and feel all right with our gorgeous getaway essentials!

PROJECT DESIGNER

jayne Cordle

· for beginners ·

makeittoday.co.uk 13

ur free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern

OPTION A/F, SIMPLICITY 3506

Match the belt fabrica flattering to the dress for fit, whatever your size

Bold and vivicious, this tangy crimson colourway will work on a variety of skin tones and creates a pleasing drape.

Code: EM-6271-red. £5.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Why not try?

DART SCHOOL

In the back of the dress, fold the fabric through the centre of the dart marking, right sides together, bringing the broken lines and small dots together.

Place pins at right angles to the broken lines, then stitch from the middle to one point.

Overlapping several stitches, work from the middle in the other direction. To prevent a bubble, leave the thread ends long enough to tie a knot and don’t back-stitch. Press flat along the stitching, then press the dart towards the centre.

TOP TIP

Simplicity’s dress option A will also work well in gently draping polycotton, soft chiffon and lustrous brocade.

It’s perfect for the crisp, retro rendering of the Sweet Heart print, the floaty translucence of Poppy on Pink Stripe, or the shimmering intensity of Chinese Blossom with its iridescent cerise hues. From just £2.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

16 Make It Today | Dressmaker

Understitching can be tricky, so tack first, using small stitches through the facing and seam allowance.

This will give you more freedom to concentrate on getting the machine sewing straight.

GET THE LOOK! JACKET: T-SHIRT £8, DEBENHAMS.COM, TROUSERS £39.50, MARKSANDSPENCER.COM, NECKLACE £12.50, DEBENHAMS.COM. HERRINGBONE TROUSERS: SCARF £5.99, TKMAXX.COM, BLOUSE £17.99, SHOES £9.99, HM.COM. RED DRESS: SHOES £17.99, HM.COM

FLORAL PRINT LINEN BLEND

yo

rn

your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte

Wrap top

& TUNIC FIGURE-FRIENDLY DRAPING WITH FOUR EASY TOP STYLES

S

easons come and go, but a flattering drop neckline and wrap-around are enduring favourites as we head towards summer.

The Charmani style heralded by Giorgio Armani showcases a fresh, light balance between discipline and freedom, which is exactly what you get with this month’s free top and tunic.

Simplicity’s relaxed 1280 pattern lets you create clean, loose-fitting lines with straightforward techniques and minimal fabric. Using a combination of binding, elastic and gathering effects, you can explore diagonal hemlines, faux wrap effects, mixed sleeve variations and peephole finishes. All this and leggings, too!

This versatile contemporary pattern with its smart shaping tricks is a beginner’s dream that’s truly top of the fashion pops!

Make it in a day!

PROJECT DESIGNER

Sarah oecken

· for beginners ·

makeittoday.co.uk 31

Find template online

STITCHING SENSE TIPS FOR HAPPIER MACHINE EMBROIDERY

❱ Clean the tension area by folding a piece of soft calico and running the folded edge through the tension discs in a single movement. This is crucial if you use metallic or fluffy threads. ❱ For better satin stitch, use a Janome Blue or Red Tip needle. Test with a good stabiliser so the sewing doesn’t tunnel and lower the stitch length to create a denser satin finish. ❱ Stabiliser can stop the stitches from sinking into the fabric; once the stitch has been formed correctly, the stabiliser can be removed.

It’s a good idea to keep a varied selection to hand. janome.co.uk

makeittoday.co.uk 25

KIMONO pyjamas PLAYFUL EASY PIECES FOR YOUR LITTLE MAN

W

ith every self-respecting dressmaker cottoning on to the pleasures of a loose-fitting kimono, it’s only right that your little one should have one, too.

Laura Strutt’s cute brushed cotton two-piece gives you the chance to practise mitre seams, box stitching and bias binding as you whip up a size-friendly Japanese wrap and matching pyjama bottoms. You can easily adjust the length of the leg to create cute sleep shorts with minimal fabric and stitch time.

Trust us, nap times were never so adorable!

2 Wrap-top front: Cut two Wrap-top back: Cut one on the fold Kimono sleeve: Cut two Trousers front: Cut two Trousers back: Cut two Zigzag stitch around all the pieces to secure the raw edges Use a 1cm seam allowance, unless otherwise stated

Aligning the inside legs on each side, pin the back and front pieces, right sides together. Starting at the bottom of one leg, sew upwards, across the crotch and down the other, then press the seam open. Stitch the side seams and press again.

3

Tuck the top edge of the trousers over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Fold over a further 4cm, press and pin. Sew around the waist, 5mm from the folded edge, leaving 5cm unstitched in the centre back.

ESSENTIAL KIT 4 Brushed cotton, 1.8m x 115cm Elastic, 50cm Bias binding, 2.5cm wide

KIMONO PYJAMAS Download and cut

1

out the pattern from makeittoday.co.uk. Pin the trouser front pieces, right sides together. Stitch the centre front seam, working from the top edge to the bottom of the curve, leaving the lower portion unstitched, as it will be the inside leg seam.

Repeat for the back, then press the seams open.

64 Make It Today | Dressmaker

Attach a safety pin to one end of elastic, feed it through the waistband casing and overlap the ends by 2.5cm.

Box-stitch the overlap, then allow the elastic to slip inside the casing and seal the gap.

Finish with a double-turned 1cm hem.

Top Tip

Brushed cotton and flannel can shrink, so pre-wash and press before you cut out the pattern pieces.

KIMONO TOP With right sides together, pin

1

the front to the back at the shoulders and sew, then press the seams open. Cut two strips of bias binding, 30cm long, for the ties. Tuck under one short end on each, fold the strips in half width-wise and press.

Topstitch down the length of the folded edges and across the tucked-in ends.

2

Pin the ties to the armholes of the front pieces, one on the right side and one on the wrong side of the fabric, aligning the raw edges. Open out and lay flat, then pin the curved edge of one sleeve over the armhole, right sides together. Stitch so the ties are secured. Repeat for the second arm, then press the seams open.

section. Pin one side, around the base to the top of the opposite front, mitring the corners, then topstitch. Pin the remaining binding around the neck, with 30cm extended at each end. Tuck in the raw edges, topstitch and press.

Secure each tie with a bow to finish.

Reader OFFER

3

Align the front and back side and underarm seams, right sides together, then pin.

Working from the base, stitch up the side, then down the arm, ending at the cuff. Press the seams open. Hem the sleeves with a double-turned 1cm hem.

4

Place the binding over the raw edges of one front

Call 01256 302699, quoting KE7, to get a copy of Sewing for Babies and Children for the special price of £9.99 (RRP £12.99, CICO Books), makeetc.com

EASY

NO-PATTERN MAKE!

If you’re using a concealed zip foot, place the teeth into the groove – as you sew the foot will uncurl the teeth. If you’re using a normal zip foot, you will need to manually uncurl them

AMANDA WALKER, DESIGNER

MARINE STRIPES

Border prints look stunning when made into midlength skirts. This regatta single border from Michael Miller is perfect for summer and oozes sophistication. £14 per metre, fabric-yard.co.uk

Top Tip

The skirt is cut the other way around to normal, because of the nature of the fabric’s border design

makeittoday.co.uk 49

SUBSCRIBER

BENEFITS

As well as receiving every issue, overflowing with exclusive patterns, expert tips, advice, stitching inspiration and features, you will: • Receive FREE regular supplements and covermounted gifts!

• SAVE over £15 off the cover price • Get BRAND NEW projects, tips and tricks in every issue • Get FREE delivery straight to your door before it hits the shops

Pay today via at makeittoday.co.uk/ subscribe

PERFECT GIFT IDEA!

A gift subscription is the perfect present that lasts all year round

DESIGNER H PATTERNS WITOF YOUR COPY AY MAKE IT TODER DRESSMAK

Regularly featuring free patterns worth up to £15!