Make It Today Dressmaker Issue 24

Dressmaker Make it YOUR Today!

PATTERNS IN

25 STYLES

+Easy-Sew

SUMMER SEPARATES YOU’LL LOVE

DIY gs

WeddOiKnS FOR 8 KEY LO TO-BE BRIDES-

Tilly Walnes’

HOW-TO Turn a top into a dress!

no-pattern

MAKE to fit any shape

STITCH YOUR OWN

LOOK!

Back to Basics...

EASY FRENCH CURVES RUCHING EXPLAINED TRIM WITH RUFFLES

12-20

Issue 24 | £7.99 MAY/JUNE 2017

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ELEGANT LOOKS

with your free

PATTERNS CLASSIC TAILORING AND FEMININE DETAILS FOR YOUR WORKWEAR WARDROBE

P

erfect for Monday morning lie-ins, Simplicity 1467 offers four smart garments that can be thrown on in a jiffy, and mixed and matched with ease. Stitch yourself a chic jacket with optional shoulder pads, a sleeveless top with a beautiful keyhole back, a pencil skirt with practical pockets and a pair of mock drawstring trousers – all of which fashion soft and gentle gathers. You can also create the illusion of a shift dress by simply pairing your skirt and top together.

With warmer days on the way, opt for lightweight fabrics, such as silky crêpe de chines and breathable linens, to keep cool and comfortable all summer long.

WHAT’S YOUR SIZE? When selecting a pattern, it is important to use your body measurements, not your ready-towear size. The style of the garment will also determine the fit, so check your proportions against the pattern’s chart. If you are between sizes, opt for the smaller one if you’re small-boned or would like a close fit, and the larger one if you prefer a loose fit. Find out how to take accurate measurements, increase the size of a dart, and view size charts at simplicitynewlook.com.

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Make It Today | Dressmaker

YOUR free

PATTERNS

Simplicity 1467 offers a small, but perfectly formed, collection of sophisticated separates to keep you looking stylish from the boardroom to the bar.

Next month’s FREE GIFTS...

pattern, plus a floral fat quarter

On sale 22nd June 2017 makeittoday.co.uk

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HOW BAZAAR

America’s first fashion magazine is championing 15 decades of iconic photography, captured through the pioneering lens of fashion.

Harper’s Bazaar: 150 Years heralds the artistry linking Dovima’s Dior elephants with Demi Moore in McQueen Pythons; it’s a stunning journey from broadsheet to style bible. £40, abramsandchronicle.co.uk

FLAMINGO ROAD

Keeping your essentials in good nick just got prettier and pinker, thanks to the Flamingo Bay oilcloth collection.

Including a make-up case, wash bag and travel case, it’s our new favourite way to store our beauty stash, and we’re loving those apple and marshmallow accents.

From £6.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

make BUY

STOCK UP FOR THE SUMMER OF STITCHY LOVE

FABULOUS FUSION

Playing nice together is good for the soul, so says Art Gallery Fabrics. Its new collection splices ideas from designers such as Bari J, Caroline Hulse and Pat Bravo into a lively collision of colourful floral and tribal prints.

With four palettes featuring names as enticing as Frida’s Dream and Bonbons, the notion of share and share alike has been elevated to an art form. hantex.co.uk/agf

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Make It Today | Dressmaker

FFlaasmhiinogno!

IT’S BETTER

WITH ETTA

FAVOURITE ETSY FINDS THAT ARE IN THE PINK

Sew yourself a knockout!

It’s as easy as signing up to Tilly Walnes’ workshop for her latest glorious pattern, Etta. Find out how to shape a fitted dress, match seams perfectly, insert a tidy zip and even add a pretty kick pleat. Embrace your inner goddess with the queen of the buttons!

From £45, tillyandthebuttons.com

MISSISSIPPI RISING

Whether you fancy a retro rayon challis or a crisp cotton transition piece for British summertime, you’ll love the Mississippi Avenue Dress and Top pattern by Sew House Seven. This sleeveless beauty, with spaghetti shoulder ties and slimming front panel, offers three styles online. sewhouse7.com

LINE UP

London-based pattern company The Avid Seamstress has a new addition to its elegant range of flattering designs for modern gals. With a classic V-neck, three-quarter sleeves and side pockets, the A-Line Dress is just one of the styles available in print and digital formats. Enjoy 15% off your order with code MAKEITTODAY. avidseamstress.com

SUMMER SPRAY

The luscious cool blues of antique china are getting revitalised in Cath Kidston’s Spray Flowers range. Evocative of blissful afternoon teas with vintage earthenware, this uplifting array of traditional delftware and willow patterns is a fresh find for summertime picnics.

Oven glove £14, cathkidston. com

BOBBLE SHORTS Plumage with a pom-pom trim. £23, pinkflamingoshorts.etsy.com

PEACHY PURSE Miniature birds and a cherry clasp. £15.50, octopurse.etsy. com PRETTY IN PINK Birdy bow for a little bit of glam. £4.70, kitandnancy.etsy.com

FEATHERY FEET Shoe more with a hot pink flourish. £85, bunnypumpkinboutique. etsy.com

PERFECT HEM

As we brave our shorter frocks, we’ll all be watchful of wobbly hemlines!

Vlieseline’s Perfect Hem tape, consisting of lightweight woven bands, is just the thing for discreetly straightening and securing flowing lines as you make those finishing touches to your sartorial creations. crafts@stockist enquiries.co.uk

EMBROIDERY BIRD Cotton, felt and fluffy fleece for specs. £14.50, jennyjen42.etsy. com

makeittoday.co.uk

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your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free pattern · your free patte

Hero

STYLE POWER UP WITH THESE SHAPELY TOP-TO-TOE ESSENTIALS

L

onger sunshine days bring energy and light to smart office pieces, and have us all vibing it up with warm pastels and vibrant florals, while rediscovering the contours that work to our advantage. We’re loving Harper’s Bazaar’s take on chic hero styles – those pieces that always save the day, transforming the commonplace into a celebration. Simplicity’s 1467 enables you to reinvigorate the classics in fabrics such as crepe and charmeuse, deploying elastic, darting, pocket and yoke skills for true hero worship. Fitted jacket, flared trousers, drape top and silhouette-sculpting pencil: you’ll find four fashion champions right here with our fab free pattern. Treat yourself to true poise and proportion with these sartorial saviours. Come on, gals – we all need a hero!

PROJECT DESIGNER

jayne Cordle

· for beginners ·

TURN OVER FOR MORE makeittoday.co.uk 13

EASY

NO-PATTERN MAKE!

7

Tuck over the ends of the straps by 1cm, press and pin, 5cm in from each side seam at the front and back, making sure the raw edges are hidden. Tack the straps in place, 5mm from the top folded edge. Thread beads on to the ends of the strap ties, knot and trim the excess.

Why not try?

This loose, flowing style works especially well with bold colours, large prints and geo designs in chiffons and poly cottons. Choose from the sheer scalloped charms of Shells Yoryu, the soft chunky watercolour pops of Squares Lilac, or the mono crispness of Geometric Border, with its cool pink trim.

From £2.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

MOMENTUM FLIGHT IN NAV Y

Maximise the floaty potential and dreamy drape with this viscose/rayon mix by Heather Bailey. Soft emerald diamonds ripple like peacock feathers for a strikingly vintage vibe. £14 per metre, fancymoon.co.uk

PROJECT DESIGNER

TORI JAYNE

· for beginners ·

makeittoday.co.uk 57

TWO-HOUR

MAKE!

Bell SKIRT RING IN THE CHANGES WITH EASY FRILLS FOR YOUR LITTLE ONE

C

hildren’s clothes always need to withstand a lot of energetic frolics, but they should also be stacks of fun to wear, which is why this bell skirt is such a perfect playtime make. Flaring out from the waist, it gives your little lady something to spin around in, whilst holding its shape during all those sunshine adventures. It’s also easy as pie to put together, with just two simple skirt pieces, an elasticated waistband and a pretty trim. So go on, let the bells ring!

2 Front skirt panel: Cut one Back skirt panel: Cut one Waistband: Cut one, 7.5cm wide Check measurement guide for length and add 2cm Interfacing: see waistband measurements Use a 1cm seam allowance elsewhere, unless otherwise stated

ESSENTIAL KIT Main fabric, 2m Coordinating thread Elastic, 2.5cm wide Lace trim, 1m

BELL SKIRT Download and cut out the

1

pattern from makeittoday. co.uk. Make a small vertical cut centrally on the top edge of both skirt pieces. Place the front panel on top of the back one, right sides together. Sew the side seams, using a 1cm allowance. Zigzag stitch the seam, then press it flat against the back panel.

62 Make It Today | Dressmaker

Fold the waistband, right sides together, then sew the short edge, using a seam allowance of 1cm. When you get to the last 3cm, leave a gap of 1.5cm for the elastic.

Continue sewing the final 1.5cm, again using a 1cm seam allowance. Fold the waistband up by 1cm at the bottom, then press it.

3

Turn the skirt inside out and lay the waistband over it, so the right side of the band is against the wrong side of the skirt. Make sure the opening of the waistband is positioned over the centre of the back panel. Pin the band to the skirt and sew it in place.

4

After turning the skirt right side out, fold the waistband in, so the edge you pressed rests exactly on top of the stitching. Pin the band in place and sew the five layers of fabric together. If you want to add piping, insert it as you pin the waistband down and stitch it into position along with the rest of the garment.

5

Measure your child’s waist and deduct a couple of centimetres to determine the length of the elastic. Pin it in place and draw a line, but don’t cut yet. Use a safety pin to pull

PROJECT DESIGNER

AMANDA WALKER

· for beginners ·

Shirt

DRESS SEW THE PERFECT CHAMBRAY STYLE FOR WARMER WEATHER

T

his light and lovely dress by Amanda Walker is great for staying cool all summer. In a comfortable fabric, it looks fabulous with or without a belt, and can be styled up with simple pumps or even a sandal for an evening out, so it’s extremely versatile! Practise simple techniques such as adding pockets and interfacing bodice pieces, plus add details like buttons to make it a truly unique addition to your wardrobe.

TURN OVER FOR MORE makeittoday.co.uk 21

PROJECT DESIGNER

SUSIE JOHNS

· for intermediates ·

Embroidered

BLOUSE TRANSFORM A PEASANT TOP WITH FLORAL DETAILING

L

oose, feminine and floaty, this beautiful embroidered top is just the ticket for staying cool this summer.

Use a hoop when working this stitch to ensure a neat, even finish, and make sure each stitch runs tightly parallel to create a solid block of colour. You can make your own top from scratch or, if you’re running short on time, treat yourself to a ready-made design with a plain panel or yoke.

ESSENTIAL KIT Fabric, linen or coarsely woven cotton, white Embroidery floss Sewing thread, white Broderie Anglaise trim, 100cm Embroidery hoop Crewel needle Erasable marker pen

EMBROIDERED BLOUSE

1

If using a blouse pattern, trace around the front yoke and cut a template from card. Place this on white linen and draw around it. Flip the template over and draw around it again, to create two front yoke pieces. Cut these out roughly, allowing a good margin of fabric all round.

If you have bought a blouse, simply embroider directly on to your chosen section.

3

Thread a crewel needle with two strands of six stranded embroidery thread and fill in the traced design using satin stitch. Begin with the flower centres, then work outwards, embroidering the stems and leaves. Choose as many bright colours as you wish to complete the design.

4

When the embroidery is finished, remove the fabric from the hoop and press it lightly on the reverse. Cut out along the outline you have drawn. If using a pattern, follow the instructions inside the envelope to complete your blouse. Add a length of lace trim against each side of the design to finish.

SHOPPING BASKET

2

Trace or photocopy the motif located at makeittoday.co.uk and tape it to a light box or a window.

Place the fabric on top and trace the design using an erasable marker pen. Make sure the design fits well within the seam allowance. Place the fabric in an embroidery hoop.

As you complete each area of the design, reposition it in the hoop.

24 Make It Today | Dressmaker

An embroidery hoop is a must-have for your sewing stash.

Priced £2.25 for a 6in hoop, stitcher.co.uk

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Two-Tone

TOP SIMPLE RECTANGLE DESIGN TO SUIT EVERY SHAPE

NOPATTERN MAKE!

A

s all lovers of mod fashion will testify, strong cuts and a bold yet minimal palette can transform a regular ensemble into something special. Amanda Walker’s multi-layered top gives the joie de vivre of Carnaby Street couture a modern twist, blending angular simplicity with dreamy chiffon texture. This nopattern make takes just a few hours and only requires you to take a little care with pinning and pressing, so you don’t warp the delicate fabric. Before you know it, you’ll be mixing doubles with all kinds of cool colour combos.

Remember, it takes two to make it out of sight.

PROJECT DESIGNER

amanda walker

· for beginners ·

makeittoday.co.uk 53

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