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Issue 27 | £7.99 SEPT 2017
Easy-Wear Patterns in* SIZES 10-22 *Approximate UK sizing
FA L L I N LOV E W I T H !
Classic Figure
Shaping & Faking WE SHOW YOU HOW!
Fashion Forward Simple-Sew TUNIC TOP TO S U I T A L L S I Z E S
LEARN FROM THE BEST... CUTTING A CURVE PEPLUM PLEATS SEWING TRICKY FABRICS
Your New Season’s Fabric Round-up
Exclusive!
ST UA RT H I L L A R D ON LIFE AFTER GBSB
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free patterns ALL-OCCASION LOOKS WITH YOUR
Effortlessly slip between casual and formal with New Look 6023 and 6412. This pattern duo offers a variety of hems, sleeves and necklines so you can harness your personal style, while topping up your sewing skills.
What’s your size? When selecting a pattern, it is important to use your body measurements, not your ready-to-wear size. The style of the garment will also determine the fit, so check your proportions against the pattern’s chart. If you are between sizes, opt for the smaller one if you’re small-boned or would like a close fit, and the larger one if you prefer a loose fit. Find out how to take accurate measurements, increase the size of a dart, and view size charts at simplicitynewlook.com.
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Stitch fancy frocks and comfy tops with this month’s free patterns. It’s all about the hemline with New Look 6412, which offers up two dresses and two tunics, plus an infinity scarf that’s ideal for keeping warm on chilly days. Choose from a striking asymmetric variation, with a layered underskirt for the dress, or an on-trend high-low hem. This project is a great chance for beginners to get a handle on stitching with knits, too. Next up is New Look 6023, a sophisticated affair that will easily take you from the boardroom to the bar. Personalise your shift with three different sleeve lengths, including capped and three-quarter, or mix it up with a statement waistband – our favourite is variation B!
Choose a contrast shade for the waistband to create an hourglass effect
NEXT MONTH’S FREE GIFTS... GET YOURS ON 12TH OCTOBER 2017
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SAY Y E S TO THE DRESS Party season’s so close, we can almost hear the fizz of champagne – but it’s never too soon to start stitching your glam frock. Lisa Comfort’s irresistible Elsie Dress pattern is sure to wow the crowds, featuring a fully lined bodice, invisible zip, princess seams and gorgeous pleats. So swish, you’ll just have to give us a twirl! UK 8-20 £14.50, sewoverit.co.uk
Do it for the kids Toddlers and kiddiewinks get double billing with this adorable dress and dungaree pattern from Two Stitches. Pairing easy fitting with sweet bib and pocket details, Frankie & Freddie will guarantee that all your little ones play nice together. £12.50, twostitchespatterns.com
Make it, buy it, love it Gonna dress you up in our love! ST I TC H O F T H E C E N T U RY If a picture really can tell a thousand words, this pocket-sized compendium of 400 gorgeous fashion illustrations from the last 100 years will leave you speechless. From original Dior ad campaigns to Bobby Hillson sketches, it’s a lush and lovely reference for all lovers of couture. £12.99, laurenceking.com
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Join the Land Girls Roll up, roll up for a very special Festival of Fabric in October, featuring the unique brooch-making skills of Made by Mim. Alongside a dizzying array of vintage treats, Mim will be showing eager stitchers how to fashion a pretty 1940s dolly head fashion accessory, complete with pin head curls and individually tied turban! festivaloffabric.co.uk/workshops
Why not try...?
DRESSMA
exclusive
CoverPro 2000 CPX JANOME’S POPULAR STITCHING PERFORMER
How can the CoverPro 2000CPX help dressmakers? It can help you achieve truly professional results at home. Enjoy flawless hemlines with double and triple needle cover stitches as seen on ready-made garments. You’ll find it easy to select the right finish for projects, and Janome’s Tension Level Control (TLC) means the results will be pucker-free. Tackle difficult-to-handle fabrics like Lycra and fine jersey with ease.
H A RV E ST F O R T H E WO R L D Lose yourself in the sensory delights of autumn! Tilda’s latest range is a luscious homage to the vibrant colours and kindred creatures of the fall, so make a little room in your cupboard for this duck egg, mustard and raspberry collection. groves@stockist enquiries.co.uk
Is it a machine for beginners or more advanced dressmakers? Beginners and more advanced sewers will love the choice of finishes. A full-colour reference chart helps to guide you without consulting the manual. Plus, puckering is a thing of the past with Janome’s Tension Level Control (TLC). You can make a cover stitch in the middle of a garment, and it even has a free arm!
KEEP IT IN T H E FA M I LY They say you can’t choose your family, but you’ll have a hard time resisting this compelling spin on the classic card game, featuring celebrity fashionistas such as Marilyn Monroe and Lady Gaga. Our new favourite thing! Can you reunite McQueen’s iconic paint dress with his skull-print scarf? £12.99, laurenceking.com
Liberty at the GBSB Live As if the prospect of the GBSB Live wasn’t enticing enough already, now our favourite fabric house is getting in on the act. London’s Fashion and Textile Museum will be hosting an exclusive exhibition of Liberty pieces, from post-war prints to seventies pastoral. You have to be there! £16.50, thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com
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WIN A BROTHER MACHINE
EASY QUILT cut from squares
Worth £599!
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READER OFFER! t For £1.50 ticke discount, quote code MTA
In association with
GIC
for Christmas!
Plus
Why is it the perfect Christmas pressie for dressmakers? If you are seeking a professional finish to garments, need to make alterations or just love to experiment with fabrics, this machine is the ideal addition to your repertoire. T-shirt neck bindings and hems are easy. Use chain stitching for sewing up knitwear or creating amazing decorative effects. You’ll achieve great results with ease, and soon wonder how you ever lived without it! VISIT JANOME.CO.UK FOR DETAILS
STAR ✷ LAUREN GUTHR IE “I’ve used er ✷ ✷ machines for 10Broth years
FOXY CUSHION & TOY SET
SEWING SUPER
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· MACHINE EMBROIDERY
MADE SIMPLE · KIDS’ DUNGARE ES
READ ALL ABOUT IT Speaking of the GBSB, our sister title Sew’s latest issue features a special 36-page supplement guest-edited by the lovely Lauren Guthrie. You can win a Brother Innov-is F420, as well as stocking up on fantastic pre-Christmas stitching ideas. On sale now! £5.99, sewmagazine.co.uk
And finally... Come to the Pally! Yes, it’s nearly that time again: avid stitchers far and wide are gearing up for the Knitting & Stitching show at Alexandra Palace, and Dressmaker readers can use discount code MIT17 to get their hands on discount tickets! £2.50 off advance; £1 off concessions Come on down! theknittingandstitching show.com/london makeittoday.co.uk
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KER
YO U R
FREE
Pattern
CREATE YOUR OPTIMUM FIT
Pencil Dress Four dream frocks to suit every shape with your free pattern! As British Vogue’s autumn fashion week celebrates the potential of simple figure-shapers, the pencil dress flaunts day-to-night versatility, equally effective as office apparel and as your gorgeous go-to for parties. From Jasper Conran’s streamlined ready-to-wear to Louis Vuitton’s playful lace creations, we can all find inspiration in this classic silhouette saviour. The four variations with New Look’s K6023 allow you to play with a boatneck or slash cut neckline, cap or three quarter sleeve, princess seams and a fitted belt. Indulge in a pattern that’s both elegant and enduring – and see how easy it is to find your perfect fit!
Vie Millard
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Beginproejrect FA B R I C
Cotton chambray Ideal for shirts, dresses or skirts, this beautifully soft material is a fantastic cotton alternative to denim. ÂŁ11 per metre, fabricgodmother.co.uk
Soft touch polyester crepe Great for pleating, this versatile fabric has a soft, smooth finish and is so easy to work with. ÂŁ3.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
For details on how to get your fabric pleated, visit ciment pleating.com
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YO U R
FREE
Pattern
SIMPLE-TO-MAKE
Jersey Tunics Crack the art of stitching with knits
Summer days are drawing to a close and it’ll soon be time to dig out the thick, woollen tights and Chelsea boots combo, ready for nippy autumn days. Prepare ahead with New Look 6412, which offers five figure-flattering garments, exclusively designed with cosy knits in mind. The pattern adds va va voom to tunics and dresses with dramatic hemlines, such as variation D’s high-low style, or why not try the asymmetric look with variation A, B and C? If you’ve got a spare metre to hand, complete the look with a matching infinity scarf that’s ideal for keeping the chill at bay when out and about. New to knits? No fear! Turn the page to find out everything you need to know to master the technique, from using ballpoint needles to trying out your overlocker. We guarantee you’ll be a jersey convert in no time.
Sarah Oecken
Julia Claridge
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YO U R
FREE
Pattern OPTION D 6412
Variation D is a versatile tunic-style dress with a statement high-low hem. The length can be easily altered to suit your style, as can the sleeve length
SA R A H ’ S TO P T I P S
GET THE LOOK! Trousers £22, Red Herring, debenhams.com. Necklace, wallis.co.uk
The jersey used to create variation D was quite thick; layer your seams on the neck bias once stitched into place if these are a bit bulky. If the jersey is not suitable for self-cut bias, try some widely available pre-cut jersey bias tape. It’s lovely and soft, and will lay flat. Plus, there are plenty of colours to match or contrast. Use a straight stitch to topstitch the bias in place, use tiny zigzag stitches, which can look very attractive and barely noticeable, and will retain stretch around the neck.
“When laying out this pattern, both the front and back are cut on the fold. If you have a wide dressmaking bolt, 150cm wide for example, you can fold both selvedge edges in towards the centre to create two folds. This is a much more economical use of the fabric and can save you quite a bit of money” SARAH OECKEN, DESIGNER
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Beginproejrect
COMFY CONTRAST
Drape Top Reach new sewing heights with a beautiful two-tone shirt For casual weekends with friends or busy errand days in town, a smart, loose-fitting top that can easily be paired with your favourite jeans is a wardrobe necessity. Fitted at the bust before flaring to an A-line, the trapeze silhouette is universally flattering and great fun to create. This easy-wear design by Amanda Walker also comes with a practical pocket, three-quarter sleeves, elegant side slits and a handmade bias binding neckline.
Amanda Walker
DOWNLOAD THIS PATTERN FROM
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Beginproejrect FA B R I C
Teal Spot Blend airy practicality and whimsical detailing with an understated navy tone and turquoise polka overlay in double georgette. ÂŁ7.50 per metre, guthrie-ghani.co.uk
seams open, including the unstitched part, which will be the back opening. Fold and hand-stitch the allowance that extends beyond the edges of the collar.
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Sew a small button to the top of the opening, then hand-stitch a loop on the opposite side. Neaten the hem of the top, fold and press up by 3cm. Pin, then handstitch to finish.
Clip corners and trim curves close to the stitching line of your collar to ensure a smooth shape and sharp points
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