Make It Today Dressmaker Issue 30

Dressmaker Make it Today!

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EASY SEW OUTFITS

LOVE OUR FRESH NEW SPRING LOOKS

£7.99 | Issue 30 Dec 17/Jan 2018

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*Approximate UK sizing

20

Suit-All Styles IN SIZES

10-24

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R E VA M P S F O R UNDER A FIVER

Denim Reloved 2-hour GILET SIMPLE SEWS FOR NEWBIES

Learn with us...

★ Neat Picot Edging ★ Elastic Masterclass ★ Fun Patch Pockets

CLEVER UPCYLES that really work

Star Turn...

B E OUR NE XT CHAM PION DRE SSM AKE R! Celeb judges and amazing prizes inside

8 paterns fre WARDROBE WONDERS WITH YOUR

Your free patterns

What’s your size?

When selecting a pattern, it is important to use your body measurements, not your ready-to-wear size. The style of the garment will also determine the fit, so check your proportions against the pattern’s chart. If you are between sizes, opt for the smaller one if you’re small-boned or would like a close fit, and the larger one if you prefer a loose fit. Find out how to take accurate measurements, increase the size of a dart, and view size charts at simplicitynewlook.com.

This month’s pattern duo is packed with beautiful basics for the year ahead.

Meanwhile, New Look 6216 offers three stylish tops with a pair of slip-on trews for ultimate comfort. While New Look 6500 delivers four shifts, each with subtle details to help you create your dream silhouette.

We’ve added key techniques from our dressmakers to help you create the perfect garments makeittoday.co.uk

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YOUR FREE

PATTERNS

Your Capsule Colection Starts Here...

Any stylist will tell you that a great-looking outfit often starts with the humble tee: its blank page quality is the perfect launch-pad for lovely layers, pinafores and jazzy bottoms.

With New Look 6216, you’ll have three flattering options to choose from, such as a classic scoop with short all-in-one sleeves, or a high neckline paired with three-quarter dolman sleeves. Finish your look in true handmade style with option D – simple straight-leg trousers that prioritise comfort without compromising on style. Speaking of quintessential classics, we couldn’t forget about the shift! New Look 6500 delivers four dresses in a sleeveless and threequarter length style, with variation B offering a nod to the sixties with a subtle vintage ruffle. For an extra twist, whip up in tweed or denim to add a raw fringe edge to the pocket and neckline.

A drawstring waist with pockets for maximum practicality

NEXT MONTH’S FREE GIFTS...

GET YOURS ON 25TH JANUARY 2018

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FORCE O F N AT U R E

© Arto Markkanen

Seizing inspiration from the geometry and rhythm of the natural world, the Earth Science collection is a celebration of organic form. Juxtaposing intriguing lines with the potential for dynamic texture, this stunning range, which includes the slimming Agate Pencil Dress and Stella Pussybow Shirt patterns, plays with semi-fits and curved cuts in sizes 4-22 for a truly natural high. namedclothing.com

The Italian Job If it isn’t too soon to be thinking about Mediterranean breaks, you’ll love this idyllic fabric collection from Gütermann.

Portofino brings together a refreshing tapestry of tints from powder blue to chalky pink in a glorious infusion of feathers and hydrangeas.

You can almost smell the salty air of Italian holiday resorts and imagine summer’s just around the corner again!

Fat quarter bundles £18.90, gutermann stockist enquiries.co.uk

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Make it, buy it, love it

In with the new and stitchy for you YO U ’ D B E T T E R SHAPE UP Described affectionately as ‘a romance in stitches and embroidery’, The Geometry of Hand-Sewing by Natalie Chanin cleverly deconstructs any fears you might have about your manual stitching endeavours.

Find out how to get back on the grid with easy instructions, cool insights and even stitching templates. £17.99, abramsbooks.com

T H E A RT O F TEXTILES If you haven’t had chance yet, there’s still time to view a display of one of Britain’s finest woven textile success stories at the Fashion & Textile Museum. Heavily influenced by Bauhaus, Wallace Sewell: 25 Years of British Textile Design brings together an exhilarating collection of strident geometric fabrics from designers Harriet Wallace-Jones and Emma Sewell. Entry £9.90, ftmlondon.org

Prepare to meet your Maker, but in a fun stitchy way, as we introduce Cricut’s latest pioneering technology. Thanks to its devilishly clever rotary blade technology, the Cricut Maker machine cuts and marks any material with uniformity and precision, bringing batch creation to another level from the comfort of your front room. And get this, it even cuts 25 sewing patterns! £380, home.cricut.com

UR S E E OW AY S A G I V E PAG E ON 46!

© Harriet and Emma by Angela Moore

Cut Above The Rest

Kimono

CLASS

Why not try?

ICS

TOP KIMONO PATTERNS FOR CHILLING FLORENCE KIMONO Soft and flowing, Sew Caroline’s striking drape jacket pattern brings easy flair to any wardrobe.

Dress up your jeans and tee with your choice of cotton, voile, jersey or rayon. Lush and lovely, with optional pompom trim or fringing. Sizes XS-XXXL, £9, maudsfabric-finds.com Florence Kimono

H U R RY !

CLOSING SOON

Super Snips Have you heard about the bird? Grab yourself a slice of the action with Ernest Wright’s impeccably styled snippers.

These gold-plated Stork embroidery scissors come with elegant blades and the teensiest points for fine crafting – we absolutely adore the dainty Deco stylings! £27.50, ernestwright.co.uk

ASAKA KIMONO It’s all about the drama with this open-front kimono pattern, featuring wide-cut sleeves and a deep vent, as well as a long belt that can wrap twice around the waist.

Choose a light fabric with good drape such as silk satin, crepe or poly-satin. Sizes 4-22, from £8.70 (approx), namedclothing.com KOCHI KIMONO Work those wovens to the max with a cute cropped jacket pattern from Papercut. Three variations provide plenty of options for threequarter sleeves, drop shoulders, side seam splits, tie fronts and front patch pockets.

Box clever! Sizes XXS-XL, £10 (approx), papercut patterns.com

M A K E A SW I S H We just can’t get enough of this season’s sassiest outerlayer, which makes Sew Over It’s Chic Cape pattern the perfect excuse to swing into action. Fully lined, with armhole slits, a rounded collar and self-covered buttons, it’s the must-have make of the new year. Go on, cloak yourself in glory!

Sizes 8-20, £7.50, sewoverit.co.uk

Alaska Kimono

Kochi Kimono

A N D F I N A L LY…

TOYA WALKER IN HER WINNING CREATION

Another staggeringly talented winner of The Refashioners has been announced, and we have to say: suits you, ladies!

Following a massively inspiring selection of inventive upcycles, organised by Dressmaker of the Year judge Portia Lawrie, our heartiest congratulations go to Toya Walker for her versatile mix and match. Find out more at makery.co.uk or instagram.com/madebytoya

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YO U R

FREE

Pattern

EASY DRESSES, CLEVER DETAILS

Smart Shifts Four savvy frocks to rock your weekday wardrobe One major prediction for the new year is the fusion of relaxed office staples and structured textiles, with everyone from Balmain to Versace heralding fresh interpretations of clean contours.

Thanks to its understated lines and fuss-free construction, New Look 6500’s four-way shift pattern is your chance to reclaim a classic, whether you’re after a hard-working office number or a spirited slip-on for soirees. Offering several neckline and sleeve variations, it lets you practise stitching with darts, facings and concealed zips, plus pockets and ruffled trims, in a range of materials from broadcloth to brocade – and you can even add a fringe to the neckline or pockets. Classy, demure, youthful and versatile, this is one nifty shift shaper for the thoroughly modern miss.

Jayne Cordle

YOUR FREE PATTERN WITH FOUR FLATTERING LOOKS

Continues overleaf makeittoday.co.uk

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Beginproejrect FA B R I C

3

Sew the sleeve tabs, right sides together, leaving one short end open for turning. Trim the corners, then turn to the right side and press the sleeve tabs.

Using tailor’s chalk, mark a buttonhole in the centre of the tab. Stitch 1.5cm from the finished end.

4

Following the pattern markings, place the raw edge of the sleeve tab on the wrong side of the sleeve with the tab placed above the mark, right side down.

Sew 5mm from the raw edge.

Press the tab downwards just over 5mm and stitch again to catch in the raw edge.

5

With the sleeve flat, turn and press a doublefolded hem, 1.5cm, at the cuff edge. With right sides together, join the sleeve underarm seam, opening out the pressed hem, then neaten the edge. Sew two rows of long ease stitches on the sleeve head between the notches. Refold the cuff hem along the pressed lines and stitch.

Blooma Garden in Pastiche Craft a fab floral medley in coolest crisp cotton. This whimsical festival of colour delights with its soft sunny corals and baby mallow blooms, cradled in duck-egg blue. For stockists, visit hantex.co.uk/agf

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Sew the front and back dress at the side seams, then neaten the raw edges.

Draw up the ease threads on the sleeve head until the sleeve fits the armhole, matching the notches and underarm seams. With right sides together, pin the sleeve into the armhole, stitch and neaten the raw seams.

7

Join the hem facing, right sides together, then press the seams open. Apply the hem facing and finish in the same way as the neck facing.

Sew a button on the outside of each sleeve, over the stitch line of the tab.

Julia Claridge

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Confident beginer 2-HOUR MAKE

Wool Gilet Layer up for winter in a beautifully draped waterfall jacket Get ready to master one of the quickest garments you’ll ever lay your eyes upon.

From drafting the pattern to completing the last stitch, Amanda Walker’s stylish waterfall gilet can be ready to wear in under 2-hours – that’s enough time to flick on your favourite movie in the process! Boiled wool is an ideal choice of fabric for this type of garment as it doesn’t fray, meaning you can save plenty of time by leaving the edges raw. We adore the pretty-in-pink look of this sleeveless jacket; however, you can easily switch up the colours to suit your wardrobe.

Amanda Walker

DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

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YO U R TOP TO BOTTOM

FREE

Pattern

Easy Stitch Staples Comfort and style combined in a triplicity of tees and trews Standard military issue in World War II, the T-shirt has since evolved into the flagship of casual chic. Offering three figure-flattering options to choose from, New Look 6216 combines Chanel’s material of choice – the jersey knit – with a medley of sleeve lengths and necklines to help create the perfect outfit base. The dolman sleeves also mean you can skip fiddly fittings and cut straight to the point with just three pattern pieces.

Once you’ve finished your quick-stitch top, head south with a pair of straightleg trousers, topped with an elastic drawstring waist and practical pockets. Pick a lightweight cotton blend for ultimate comfort or go luxe with a silky satin – either way, we promise your sartorial conundrums will be a thing of the past!

Sarah Oecken

YOUR FREE PATTERN WITH FOUR SIMPLE MAKES

Continues overleaf makeittoday.co.uk

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Beginproejrect

INTO THE BLUE

Jersey Top A chic slip-on knit for casual weekend vibes If you want to elevate an off-duty look from drab to fab, remember it’s all in the details! This jersey wonder includes a variety of features to make it extra special: a button neckline complemented by a delicate pleated front, three-quarter sleeves for keeping snug during in-between seasons, plus two sweet pockets.

Amanda Walker

DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

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QUICK AND EASY

Tropical Headband

Beginproejrect

A fun and trendy hair accessory to accentuate a summer outfit

Corinne Bradd’s vibrant turban-inspired hair band is a great way to turn pieces of left-over fabric into an easy matching accessory for a dress or tee. The design is based on a simple figure of eight, twisted at the top of the head and wrapped round the back with the additional strips of elastic to give the whole ensemble a little stretch. Why not rustle up a selection in different fabrics to suit a casual outfit or occasion?

ESSENTIAL KIT Cotton prints, two, 11cm x 116cm Elastic, 1cm wide Coordinating thread

Tropical Headband Before you start, iron the

1

Corinne Bradd

FA B R I C

fabrics flat, then lay right sides together. Stitch along both long edges and turn right sides out to make a wide tube. Press the seams accurately. Turn in 1cm at each end of the tube and pin two lengths of flat white elastic, 7.5cm, inside the folded ends by 1cm at each side to make a continuous band.

2

Topstitch around the entire band, 3mm from the edges to neaten and secure the elastic pieces.

Hold the band at the elastic end, to fold it in half. Twist the band halfway along by 360°, then bring the folded end under on itself to cover the elastic end. This will create a linked loop effect at the front of the headband.

Jungle Fever Tropical Animals by Poppy Europe, Rose and Hubble’s Flamingos, will have you stepping out in a medley of colour and pattern. mileybowfabrics.co.uk

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PETROL BLUE

Sewing has undergone something of a renaissance in recent years, with stitchers old and new taking up the needle and thread. For this month’s subscription get your hands on the latest Sew Style book along with 4 patterns, 2 metres of cupro fabric in either plum or petrol blue, PLUS accessories to make this gorgeous day dress as featured.

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