Make It Today Dressmaker Issue 31

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ALL-NEW

Dressmaker Make it Today!

EASY MAKE

Day Dress WARDROBE FAITHFUL TO SUIT ANY SHAPE

12 Stylish Separates Y O U C A N C R E AT E I N A D AY

S I Z E S 10 TO 24 * *A P P R O X U K S I Z I N G

Cotton Swing

SKIRT R E A DY F O R

THE WEEKEND

Tilly Walnes’ EA SY ZI P TU TO RI A L

In the sewing room... ★ Flat-locking explained ★ Perfecting plackets ★ Adapting patterns

IDEAS FOR ST I TC H E R S

£7.99 | Issue 31 Feb 2018

10 s n r e t a p fre SPRING STAPLES WITH YOUR

This Month’s patterns

What’s your size?

Launch into the new season with 10 fabulous mix and match pieces! New Look 6390 offers an array of dresses finished off with full skirts, plus a bolero that’ll keep you snug when there’s a nip in the air. For loose and flowing garments, New Look 6517 will be your go-to.

Choose from sleeveless tank dresses, pull-on trousers, tunics and more.

When selecting a pattern, it is important to use your body measurements, not your ready-to-wear size. The style of the garment will also determine the fit, so check your proportions against the pattern’s chart. If you are between sizes, opt for the smaller one if you’re small-boned or would like a close fit, and the larger one if you prefer a loose fit. Find out how to take accurate measurements, increase the size of a dart, and view size charts at simplicitynewlook.com.

We’ve added key techniques from our dressmakers to help you create the perfect garments makeittoday.co.uk

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YOUR FREE

PATTERNS

Your Transitional Wardrobe It’s time to breathe new life into your closet with a little help from New Look 6390 and 7517. With 10 versatile items to choose, from dresses with maximum swish factor to a stylish throw-on scarf, you’ll find everything you need to create chic looks with ease. Get started with New Look 6390, which features three figureflattering dresses with plenty of options for personalisation, such as a sheer neckline or broad straps, a pretty bow waistband and short-sleeve bolero with princess seams for a tailored fit.

Want to fill your wardrobe with spring to summer garments? New Look 6517 includes six easy-sew separates: a long sleeveless tank dress with a dramatic slide slit, classic tunics and cropped tops, plus pull-on trousers with discreet elastic casing along the sides and back.

NEXT MONTH’S FREE GIFTS...

GET YOURS ON 8TH MARCH 2018

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MAKING A SPLASH Bringing a flourish of the great outdoors into your springtime sojourns, Cath Kidston is really spoiling us with its new floral and nautical collections. Henley Bloom’s classic carnation motif sings to the joys of pretty pinks, whilst the Whitby Waters range, set to launch on 11th February, is a beguiling sailboat serenade. All aboard! cathkidston.com

Make it, buy it, Lemon Wonders Fresh and tangy as a glass of homemade lemonade, this eclectic fabric collection from Tilda effortlessly captures the fragrance and sunshine of Mediterranean citrus groves.

With its delightful medley of soft pink, cerulean and bumble bee, this lemon squeezy surprise is an essential purchase for springtime makes. groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

love it

Knickers, nauticals and novel footwear

B OT TO M ’ S U P Cute, playful and feminine – the new Nixie knickers pattern from Jennifer Lauren Handmade goes above and beyond in the quest to comfortably cup your derriere. Offering a choice of hipster or high-waist style, the pattern comes with full instructions and lingerie elastic to help you snap to it with four-way stretch. It certainly has us feeling cheeky! Nixie Briefs £6, jenniferlaurenvintage.com

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TOT E S A M A Z I N G Bring a little bit of birdy love into your life with this lovely handmade Pink Spot tote from the Crafty Bird. Fashioned from 100% cotton drill and featuring a darling dotty motif that’s hand-screen printed in cerise pink or turquoise, this charming shopper bag is truly tweets ahead. £18, claracreate.com

Why not try?

Liberty LOV E

A POCKET FULL OF MEMORIES BY ALICE CAROLINE

The Gloves Are On We’ve got to hand it to the team at Designer Courses – when it comes to learning the intricacies of hand-stitched leather, their glove-making class has the royal seal of approval. Trained table-cutter Katherine Pogson guides you through the process of stretching, cutting and sewing a pair of perfectly fitting mitts for a luxury make that’s truly leather clever. 3th-4th March, designercourses.com

PATCHWORK STORIES

MAGICAL BOUQUET

Support Act Lend a layer of luxury barely-there shaping to your garments with Vlieseline’s new selection of lightweight woven interlinings. For a soft and flexible support you can appreciate across a range of slinky blouses, lightweight jackets and floaty frocks, the G785 interlining sets a new standard for ease of wear. For stockist details, contact ladysewandsew.co.uk or six-penny.com TROPICAL TRAILS

S H OW ME THE SHOES! Walk the walk with this sultry V&A style guide that’s sure to keep you on your toes.

Whether your fancy is wartime glamour or medieval gothic, you’re sure to find something to inspire your next tootsie treats. £12.95, thamesandhudson.com

S AV E

25%

COMPLET POLKA E D O T K IT

Fabric specialist Alice Caroline is back with a nostalgia-infused Liberty collection designed to celebrate the joys of childhood. A Pocket Full of Memories conjures up the sensations of youthful exploration with its treasure trove of vivid pictorials, including the poppy-rich pigments of Magical Bouquet, the ditsy tumble of Patchwork Stories and the ornate creature comforts of Tropical Trails. Owner Alice Caroline Garrett says, “There is so much beauty in these designs, creating a riot of colour from which to work.” alicecaroline.co.uk

A N D F I N A L LY… For a sixties frock that polka dot pretty, this stunning dressmaking kit from the Craft Store is the total package! Save 25% on a bundle that includes the dreamy New Look 6447 pattern, with its stylish contrast waistband and v-shaped back, plus three metres of soft black crepe with a minty spot print. Just £29.99 (RRP £39.99) while stocks last. craftstoreuk.com/polkadot

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YO U R

FREE

Pattern

TOP-TO-TOE ESSENTIALS

Relaxed Fits Six easy separates you can make in a day!

As design predictions from Vogue reveal, this spring sees a marked shift towards a relaxed silhouette, with gentle draping and softer lines for comfort. Our free New Look 6517 celebrates the practical aspect to feminine shaping, blending full freedom of movement with simple contouring techniques. If you’re after fuss-free separates with zero fastenings, these loose-fit patterns will quickly form the basis of your everyday style. Master the basics of darting, elastic casing and bias work as you create versatile tops and tunics in mixed lengths, plus trousers that let you flex your tailoring skills with vertical pockets and gently flared hemlines. Mix and match sorbet shades in cotton lawn, linen or voile, then use your leftovers to construct a neck scarf! Casual, light and refined, this is your chance to elegantly transition into endless feel-good fashion.

Sarah Oecken

YOUR FREE PATTERN WITH SIX KEY PIECES

Continues overleaf makeittoday.co.uk

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Confident beginer

FIGURE-HUGGING

Cath Kidston Dress Stitch a sheath that loves your curves Harnessing the charms of post-war efficiency and English garden idylls, Cath Kidston designs continue to captivate the imagination. With Amanda Walker’s sheath project, you can quickly turn a favourite print into a moving work of art. Constructed using simple pattern pieces, minimal darts and a concealed zip, it’s an easy way to go bold with flattering florals as spring beckons – plus, the bow collar adds a cute fifties twist to its striking silhouette. Trust us, everything’s coming up roses!

Amanda Walker DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

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Beginproejrect

ON-TREND GINGHAM Amanda Walker

Midi Dress Learn new techniques as you sew a timeless frock

We’re celebrating gingham this issue, and this is the ultimate garment if you’re a fan of the check print. Our full-skirted tea dress

by Amanda Walker features darts, tucks, pleats and gathers, which all help to create a beautiful and lattering silhouette. The gingham pattern will disguise any minor imperfections, making this garment a good introduction to shaping techniques; just remember to neaten the edges of woven fabric using an overlocker or zigzag stitch so you prevent fraying. You’ll become a modern-day Dorothy with just three clicks of your heels!

ESSENTIAL KIT Gingham fabric, 1.5m x 4.3m Concealed zip, 56cm Coordinating thread

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT BODICE AND FACING: Cut one of each on the fold BACK BODICE AND FACING: Cut one pair of each SKIRT: Cut three on the fold, plus one pair WAISTBAND: Cut one 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

HIDDEN ZIP A concealed or invisible zip has the teeth hidden on the wrong side, so all that can be seen on the outside of the garment is a subtle seam line. You’ll need an invisible zipper foot to ensure a professional inish. To release the tightness of the zip’s coils before sewing, press just under the teeth with an iron on a synthetic setting – this enables it to glide easily through the grooves in the foot.

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Midi Dress Download and cut out the

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pattern from makeittoday. co.uk. Stitch darts into the front and back bodice pieces, beginning at the base, then press towards the centre. Create a tuck at each side of the front, then pin and stitch along the waistline.

Neaten the side and centre-back seam edges. Pin both pieces, right sides together, matching the shoulder seams. Sew, then press the seam allowance open.

2

Lay the facing on top of the bodice, right sides together, matching the necklines. Pin and stitch around the neckline, then clip the curves and understitch on the right side of the facing, close to the seam line. Match the armholes of the bodice, pin and stitch. Clip the curved seam allowance, then turn to the right side by threading the back bodice parts through the shoulders. Tease out the seam allowance around the neckline and armholes, then press lat.

3

Match the front and back bodice side seams, then pin and sew from the base to the underarm, ensuring the armhole seams are open. Press the seam open and fold the facing inside the bodice, neatening the base

Beginproejrect EVERYDAY STYLE

Pocket Skirt Create a figureflattering waistline with delectable draping There’s something so comforting about a skirt with pockets – but being practical doesn’t mean you have to compromise on glam factor! With its feminine folds, this skirt is perfect as swishy day wear or an evening showstopper, and you can even add a petticoat for a retro flourish. Just remember with heavier fabric to attach a strip of interfacing through the fold line of the lower side to give body. Style with a wrap top to accentuate the silhouette, or a supple satin blouse for textural contrast.

Amanda Walker DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

makeittoday.co.uk

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Beginproejrect

Amanda Walker EVERYDAY STYLE

Floaty Blouse Drift away in a bohemian-inspired top for spring

Look through any wardrobe and you’re sure to find a blouse. It’s a staple garment that never seems to go out of fashion, and each one has a distinctive feature that sets it apart from the rest.

Amanda Walker has created this one in a stunning watercolour fabric with a classic round neckline, three-quarter sleeves and delicate drape to flatter any figure. You can fashion it from a plain lawn material or using a statement print: it’s the perfect excuse to make a whole clothes rail full of them. This is a classic, after all!

DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

makeittoday.co.uk makeittoday.co.uk

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YO U R DRESS TO IMPRESS

FREE

Pattern

Fit n’ Flare Frocks Simple style classics to see you through the seasons Rockabilly realness is served with New Look 6390’s full and flowing skirts and softly cinched-in waists, that’ll ensure the enviable hourglass silhouette is yours for the taking.

Top off the lovely vintage look with a delicate sheer neckline – a fantastic option for beginners looking to try something a little more complex – or go for basic wide straps instead. For the ultimate feminine finish, adorn your waistband with a pretty bow.

Don’t forget, once you’ve created your fifties-esque frock, you can stretch your sewing skillset one step further by making a shortsleeved bolero shaped with princess seams.

Jayne Cordle

YOUR FREE PATTERN WITH FOUR FASHIONABLE MAKES

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