Make It Today Dressmaker Issue 32

£9.99 | Issue 32 March 2018

20 ALL NEW OUTFITS

To wear in sizes

6-28 APPROX UK SIZING

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Pattern Pull-out:

4 SKIRT SPECIAL

start making today!

Easy Stitch

TWO-IN-ONE Create Your Style for Summer

Simple top

in two-hours!

FOR ANY SHAPE k 5 quic n patter s hack ! inside

SEWING ROOM

Secrets

KNOW YOUR NAP CONTOUR DARTS TRICKY FABRICS MASTERED

9e paterns fr SPRING SAVVY LOOKS WITH YOUR

This Month’s patterns

What’s your size?

This duo offers breezy basics for spring strolls and seasonal soirees.

Get started with Simplicity 1355, which will have you jumping for joy with its selection of all-in-one pieces, while New Look 6022 exudes minimal chic with simple-silhouette shifts. Which one will you make first?

When selecting a pattern, it is important to use your body measurements, not your ready-to-wear size. The style of the garment will also determine the fit, so check your proportions against the pattern’s chart. If you are between sizes, opt for the smaller one if you’re small-boned or would like a close fit, and the larger one if you prefer a loose fit. Find out how to take accurate measurements, increase the size of a dart, and view size charts at simplicitynewlook.com.

We’ve added key techniques from our dressmakers to help you create the perfect garments makeittoday.co.uk

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YOUR FREE

PATTERNS

Simple Seasonal Style The promise of sunnier days is on the horizon; it’s finally time to start paring back the layers and digging out the lightweight fabrics for floating frocks and pretty playsuit ensembles. Get in the mood for spring with Simplicity 1355, an easy-to-sew pattern with four options to perfectly suit your body shape. Choose from a flowing maxi with a dramatic slit, or statement jumpsuits with two neckline variations: plunging v-neck or sultry scoop. New Look 6022, meanwhile, offers four chic dress options, each with a delicately pleated front. Shimmy in a dropped hem with sweet capped sleeves, and cinch in your waist with a sophisticated sash. Don’t forget to finish your outfit with a drawstring bag, just big enough to stash all of your essentials.

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GOOD FOR THE SOUL

© DAVID BUTLER

Jubilant and jewel-soaked, this ethnic-inspired fabric collection from Amy Butler sparkles with vivid hues redolent of Indian travels. Soul Blossoms delights the senses with a passionate palette of dreamy rayon, voile and corduroy prints, from Disco Flower Tangerine to Peacock Feathers Blush, and all with Amy’s trademark treasure box of swirls and clusters. Blooming marvellous! amybutlerdesign.com

Dungarees Company Fellow devotees of the chic dungaree will adore the latest pattern from Tilly and the Buttons – a playful homage to an enduring fashion faithful.

Mila gives a satisfying fit at the hips, with cute side-button openings and ever-ready pockets, for a relaxed yet confident fit in medium-weight stretch denim or needlecord. £12.50, shop.tillyandthebuttons.com

Make it, buy it, love it

Toucans and llamas and pandas, oh my!

CLEVER THREADS Looking to bring a flash of personalised perfection to your dressmaking project? Embroidery specialist Jessica Pile’s fascinating exploration of couture techniques, covering everything from monogramming to tambour beading, is a lustrous medley of achievable embellishments designed to help you raise your stitching game. Truly catwalk clever!

Fashion Embroidery, £25, pavilionbooks.com

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Why not try?

C H A R L OT T E SUBLIME

Flamingo Road Calling all animal lovers! You’ll want to flock to the astonishing silk shading and crewelwork on display in the new exhibition by the Royal School of Needlework. Blending the familiar and fantastical, Animals in Embroidery at Hampton Court Palace brings all manner of bird and beast to life in a mind-blowing menagerie of exquisite hand stitches.

From 18th April, royal-needlework.org.uk

Settle in with an instant faux-wrap figure winner, as Lisa Comfort’s latest pattern blends a lapel collar, wide waistband, roomy pockets and also kimono sleeves for a graceful throwback with an oriental twist. Sew Over It’s Charlotte Dress promises to make it even easier to reinvent the hourglass for truly elegant fashion fusion in sizes 8-20. £7.50, sewoverit.co.uk

Animal JERSE

Y

CREATURE COMFORTS FROM LUXURY MASTERS STOFF & STIL

LIGHT POWDER WITH LLAMAS

DUSTY BLUE TOUCAN

Pick up a Pineapple If spring has got you yearning for sultry far-flung climes, you’ll adore these tropical treats from Trimits. Perfect for holding fabric and tissue in place as you work on your next masterpiece, these patchwork-pretty pineapple weights are sure to brighten up your work space. We just love the tufty felt leaves! £12.99 for two, groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk NATURE WITH PANDAS

E D ITO R ’S C H O IC E N AT U R E ’ S WAY We dressmaking gals are all about keeping it real, so Fashioned From Nature is a genuine delight, placing our clothing in the context of mother earth. Tracing 400 years of textile innovation, using materials as diverse as fruit fibre to recycled bottles, it promotes responsible attitudes to clothing whilst celebrating styles with a natural high. From 21st April, £12, vam.ac.uk

Soft and sublime, these fresh jersey prints promise endless springtime snuggles from Stoff & Stil. Presenting a joyous showcase of stretch and organic knits, this inspired collection means you can easily put together comfy pieces festooned in your favourite wildlife. These delightful animal crackers include the Pop Art pastel prettiness of Dusty Blue Toucan, the cheeky creamy subtlety of Nature with Pandas, and the candy-kissed quirky charms of Light Powder with Llamas.

Exotic mischief with the gentle touch!

From £12.25 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

A N D F I N A L LY… Doing her bit for children who struggle with shop-bought clothes, designer Ruth Maddock has created a pattern range to help those who are sensitive to fabric tightness and scratchiness. Along with the patterns, which aim to boost well-being in young wearers, she has set up a range of fabric designs with uplifting motifs such as vintage maps and dandelion clocks. ruthmaddockmakes.com

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YO U R SEW WITH THE FLOW

FREE

Pattern

Easy Jumpsuit Together forever all-in-ones to wear this weekend

As spring heralds the promise of sunshine breaks, you’ll want to be able to pack light without compromising on fashion points, and this relaxed all-in-one pattern gives you the chance to celebrate a statement style that speaks to all body shapes. Playful, sophisticated and versatile, Simplicity 1355 taps into the iconic drape of Diane von Fürstenberg and the practical chic of Stella McCartney, with the option of a full-length jumpsuit and a halter-neck romper, as well as a relaxed maxi with front seam split. Create a flattering cinched silhouette with a choice of neckline details, plus pockets, elastic casings and tie fastenings in challis, soft linen, interlock or sateen – perfect for dynamic event wear as well as a fetching travel set. For sensational seasonal walkabouts? Let’s jump to it!

Jayne Cordle

YOUR FREE PATTERN WITH FOUR FAB PIECES

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Beginproejrect

4

Pin the front pieces, right sides together, then stitch the centre front seam, being careful to match the neckband into a neat ‘V’ shape. Lay the front and back pieces with right sides together, then pin and sew the side seams. Trim the seam allowance to 7.5mm to reduce bulk and neaten or clip along the curve of the underarm.

5

Fold a cuff piece in half widthways, right sides together. Stitch along the short edge to form a ring, then fold in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Press, then place this around the ends of a sleeve, matching the raw edges and lining up the seams. Pin in place, sew with a 1cm allowance, then neaten the raw edges. Repeat this for the other sleeve.

6

Neaten the bottom edge, then press up a 4cm hem and stitch in place. Fold the belt strip in half lengthways, right sides together, then snip each end at an angle. Sew around, leaving a gap in the centre.

Turn right sides out through the gap.

Press, then slip-stitch the gap closed.

Neaten one long edge of a belt loop, fold each long edge in by 1cm and press. Lay the neat edge on top of the raw one, then stitch. Fold each end in by 1cm, pin onto the top beside a side seam, 15cm up from the base. Sew across each end to secure.

FA B R I C

Triple Crepe in Shell This luxe triple crepe hangs and drapes beautifully, and has a slightly crinkled texture. Choose from rich royal blues and fresh fuchsia pinks, or go for neutral shell to match our model. £16.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

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Beginproejrect ICONIC STYLE MADE SIMPLE

Chanel Jacket Lifelong fashion kudos you can stitch in an afternoon!

Doyenne of practical fashion, Chanel adapted a mainstay of menswear for the feminine shape with her legendary box jacket. Amanda Walker’s project shows you how to make your own comely classic in a beautiful textured knit. Stitched in boucle, wool mix or tweed, and equally stylish as a smart business piece or a sassy accompaniment to jeans and a shirt, this jacket is quickly fashioned with pockets, shoulder pads and a supple lining. Legend has it that the original had a chain stitched into the lining to weigh it, but you don’t need to go to those lengths: just add a braid trim in matching or contrasting fabric, and you’ll make fashion history!

Amanda Walker

DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

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Beginproejrect FA B R I C

T RY T H I S alternative PRINT! NO-PATTERN Woven Crepe Watercolour Flowers

make

We love our charcoal and crimson Stoff & Stil fabric, but for an alternative that is in stock, try this heavyweight crepe georgette, artfully blending pastel splashes. ÂŁ8 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

5

Neaten the lower hemline with a zigzag stitch or overlocker, fold a 3cm hem and press. Tuck up the bottom of the front facing, then sew the ends along the pressed line of the hem. Clip the corners and secure the facing with hand stitches.

6

Beginning at the top of one selvedge edge, sew the facing and hemline 2.5cm down from the fold, working down the facing and up the other side. Sew a buttonhole on the right-hand side of the waistband, plus five more at 10cm intervals down the right-hand front facing.

Add corresponding buttons on the left to finish.

THE KNOWLEDGE The following is based on a size 10 (72cm waist) with a desired length of 87cm: Skirt: 150 x (87 [length] + 4.5* = 91.5) 150cm x 91.5cm Waistband: 10 x (72 [waist] + 8** = 80) 10cm x 80cm *Extra 4.5cm length is for the hem (3cm) plus waistband seam allowance (1.5cm). ** Extra 8cm width is for ease (2cm), overlap (3cm) and seam allowances (3cm).

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Corine’s BAG OF THE MONTH

Patchwork Tote Carry around your essentials in this easy-make number Get ahead of the curve with a sumptuous roundbottomed bag, complete with comfortable shoulder-length straps. Our designer Corinne brings the X-factor with patchwork pretty style that’s great for busting your scrap stash, although this practical accessory can also be whipped up in simple patterned cotton, too.

P R O J EC T DESIGNER

ESSENTIAL KIT Assorted cotton prints Cotton lining, 75cm 5mm seam allowance used throughout

Patchwork Tote Download and print

1

the template from makeittoday.co.uk. Follow the Make Your Own Patchwork panel (over the page) to create the outer fabric. Cut two bag pieces and two reversed from both the patchwork fabric and lining.

Fold the fabrics, right sides together, at dart E and stitch to point F. Trim away the excess fabric. Place the outers and linings right sides together and sew along the handles from A to B and C to D. Clip the curves, turn the handles right sides out, and press the seams.

2

Open out the lining from the outer and pair up the bag halves, right sides together along the centre seam, matching up the join accurately. Stitch all the way along this seam on one pair but leave a 10cm gap in the

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Corinne Bradd middle of the lining fabric on the other pair.

3

Overlap the raw ends of the handles by 5mm and topstitch down the centre of the overlap. Clip away any loose threads before concertina-folding 1cm of the handle on each side of the seam, over and underneath the join. Topstitch to create the look of a flat-fell seam.

4

Open out the outers from the lining. Pin and stitch the outers together from the base of the handle at C to the other side, matching up the darts and making sure the handles do not get caught up in the seam. Repeat for the linings. Turn the bag out through the gap left in the centre lining seam. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and topstitch closed. Place the lining inside the bag outer.

Press the handle seams neatly and topstitch 2mm from the edge.

G RE AT FO R B EG I N N E R S FRO M TI L LY WA L N ES, STR ETCH!

D I S COV E R MORE MAKES

© Ellie Smith & Fanni Williams

You’ll find loads more cute knit projects in Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch! by Tilly Walnes (£22.50, Quadrille), hardiegrant.com

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