Make it Today Issue 10 Dressmaking Preview

Make it Today!

ISSUE 10 DEC 2015 / JAN 2 016

Stitch your Style

LOVE IT

MAKE IT

DO IT

BUY IT

READ IT

YOUR KIT PATTERNS FROM

&

EASY MAKE, EASY WEAR

fitted shift

THAT’S PERFECT FOR BEGINNERS LISA COMFORT’S

VINTAGE-STYLE WEDDING VEIL EMBROID MACHINE ERY WORTH £1,500!

MAKE IT TODAY

WIN!

ISSUE 10 | £7.99 DEC /JAN 2015/16

Plus: Overlocker Guide . London’s Top Haberdasheries . Tailoring on Test

34

26 36

25

Contents: dressmaking 13 JACKET AND SKIRT SUIT We’re giving you the power this issue with a gorgeous make that’s all about business sense 18 EASY-WEAR DRESS A fuss-free, semi-fitted number with waist darts and side splits, giving you classic appeal 26 WRAP SKIRT Whether you fancy a cute A-line or a slinky maxi, this pattern has it all wrapped up!

EXTRA PROJECTS

22 PARISIENNE TOP Made using two pattern pieces, this stylish top boasts a cowl neckline and tie belt 25 DRAWSTRING PURSE A chic gathered pouch is the perfect first make, and you can sew it in silk for more appeal!

33

ISSUE 10

YOUR KIT MAKES

48

36 TULIP DRESS This geo twist on a classic shape will test your skills and keep you bang on trend

41 THE BOOKS Expand your stitchy horizons with our latest literary round-up

48 VERSATILE DRESS Stitch a pretty pleated dress and achieve springtime perfection

43 FABRIC LOVE See our springtime mix of florals and fruits laced with a little geo love

52 CHILD’S DUNGAREES Playtimes are sure to be more exciting in these cute unisex dungarees

50 PLUS SIZE SHOWCASE Discover the wearable patterns perfectly suited for all shapes and sizes

54 FABRIC CUFF This charming, colourful cuff takes fabric scraps to a whole new level!

IN EVERY ISSUE 3 WELCOME 5 INSIDE YOUR KIT 40+55 GIVEAWAYS 58 COMING NEXT ISSUE 24+60 SUBSCRIPTIONS 61 THE PRACTICALS

56 TULLE VEIL Make your big day extra special with this handmade headpiece

11 ESSENTIAL KIT The New Year essentials you just have to have!

33 FABRIC BROOCHES Add a little flower power to your outfit with these scrap-busting accessories 34 RUFFLE BAG Let your accessory do the talking with this striking ruffled number

38 TAILORING SHOWCASE Revel in the ultimate sophistication with these indulgent tailored jacket patterns

6 MAKE IT, BUY IT, LOVE IT The latest events and releases in the wonderful world of dressmaking 8 NOTICEBOARD We take a look at your latest stitchy makes and plans for the New Year 20 SEW IN THE CITY Fancy a trip to the capital, but not sure where’s best to visit? Read our handy dressmaker’s guide 42 INTERVIEW: ALYSON CLAIR Knits sewing expert Alyson shares her tips on stretchy fabrics and sewing for animals

ON PATROL

30 WORKING WITH OVERLOCKERS We’ve covered all the basics for unlocking the potential in your trusty Janome sewing companion

RELAX AND READ

SUBSCRIBE NOW

Get money off a three-issue trial.

Turn to pages 17 and 60 for details

Make it Today!

4

46 QUEEN OF COUTURE Explore the legend behind the French fashion empire with our celebration of this inspirational style icon 66 INTERVIEW: THE FOLD LINE Meet the stitchy duo behind a brandnew online sewing community

Make it Today!

YOUR DESIGNER PATTERNS

Four fashionable SKIRTS to choose from

Stitch a power suit and dress combo

What’s your size?

DON’T MISS NEXT ISSUE!

Two exclusive designer patterns perfect for spring!

ON SALE 22ND JAN 2016 Find out more on page 58

If you need a larger size, alternative versions are available: B6184 (14-20), M7129 (16-24). Call Butterick at 0344 880 1263, quoting voucher code MIT6184 or MIT7129 to redeem your replacement pattern at half price (£4 for B6184, £4.38 for M7129).

Offer valid until 5th February.

THIS MONTH...

make it, buY it, love it Fresh releases, events, lessons and looks for a happy New Year!

THE ART OF DENIM

Calling all denim lovers: Art Gallery Fabrics has come up with a brand-new approach to DIY denim makes, fusing prints with uplifting colours and textures that you can mix and match for a happy new you. Fast on the heels of its successful Canvas range, which promotes an experimental yet organic approach to dressmaking, Denim Studio’s fabrics balance artistry with comfort and they’re ideal for tailored garments as they hug the contours of the skin. Available from January. artgalleryfabrics.com

ENIM BRICS, D LLERY FA ART GA

STUDIO

SPECIAL DENI FEATURE IN M OUR NEXT ISSUE!

MINDI SKIRT BY STYLE ART, CANVAS

PAINT YOURSELF GORGEOUS

GIRL’S GOTTA HAVE IT

Get your year off to a greatlooking start with a needle wallet from Merchant & Mills.

With its Rusty Blaze leather, this is a ‘must-have’ craft essential. The ‘First Aid for clothes’ needle repair kit is also a sure-fire stitchy requirement, while the inspirational workbook will help ensure your New Year is full of gorgeous ideas. Workbook £25, wallet £28, kit £15, merchantandmills.com

Devoted upcyclers will love these water-based fabric pens from Trimits. Brighten up an old tee or re-purpose a neglected frock: no muss, no fuss, and hours of fun with 28 shades including pastels and neons. These nifty paint pens come with a nib for detailed work, and you can mix different shades together for an infinite number of inky new creations. £2.50, groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

Make it Today!

6

COUTURE CONFIDENCE

New year, new challenges­—so face those stitching adventures with a smile by taking advantage of some expert training. Jane White Couture Tuition, in North Lincolnshire, provides a host of classes, whether you want to learn the basics or gain a City & Guilds Fashion qualification. Courses include pattern cutting, smocking and hand-tailoring, and all in the capable hands of a quality dressmaker. janewhitetuition.co.uk

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

Anyone looking to imbibe their dressmaking creations with extra zing will love the V&A’s new exhibition, The Fabric of India. This dazzling celebration of textiles spans centuries of innovation from ancient tents and temple hangings to contemporary fashions, wedding attire and film costumes. The event, which features drapes dyed in pomegranates, stories spun in silk, shirts inscribed in gold paint and muslin embroidered with glittering green beetle wings, is a fascinating visual guide to a global artistic and industrial phenomenon. vam.ac.uk/fabricofindia, #FabricofIndia

BUNNY LOVE

Stuck for inspiration for your next creation? Play dress-up and make your kiddiewink’s new year with this vintage Molly the Rabbit rag doll kit. Complete with felt, buttons, coloured cottons and easy-to-follow instructions, this kit contains everything you need to create your little one’s new best friend. £12.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

SEWING MACHINE BUDDIES

If you’re still getting to know your sewing machine, make 2016 the year when you become real pals. The West End Sewing Centre in Bristol is kick-starting its popular Get To Know Your Machine workshops, with free training sessions for customers who get computer-style sewing machines in store, all guaranteed to help you get the best from your dressmaking companion. Wednesdays and Saturdays, westendsewing.com

10% OFF MACHINE SERVICE AT C SEWING MACH CB INES ENTER CODE .

CC2B34SV

THE NEED FOR TWEED

COLOUR ME HAPPY

This season is all about rocking the cosy checks and comfy tweeds—so says Chrysalis Fabrics. Special, unusual and distinctive textures are the house speciality for this popular subscription fabric club, and Make It Today readers are invited to choose from a selection of 60 fabrics per quarter for a modest annual sum. Contact Diana for some truly inspiring seasonal swatches. chrysalisfabrics.co.uk

Turn those textile-inspired scribblings into truly original works of art with this lovely colouring book from Liberty. Put your own stamp on a stunning collection of paisleys and florals such as Jenny’s Fan, Wiltshire Berries, Ellie Ruth and Betsy. It’s also small enough to fit in your handbag, so you can get your fix of luscious Liberty bliss wherever you are! £9.99, liberty.co.uk

NEWS 7

PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNER/INTERMEDIATE | SHOULD TAKE A COOL WEEKEND OF SAVVY SEWING

RAISE YOUR POWER POTENTIAL WITH A

STYLED JACKET AND SKIRT

that hits all the right lines

OK, we’ll admit it, we’re on a bit of a power trip. Maybe it’s the sight of Hollywood royalty Amal Clooney rocking the ice-cool white skirt suit, or the highvoltage red number Julianna Margulies dons in political drama The Good Wife, but we just can’t get enough of these dramatic, self-assured lines and bold palettes. Butterick’s B6184 combo gives daring dressmakers the perfect opportunity to take charge, with its semi-fitted contours, self-bias neck binding, exposed dart detailing and, of course, the shoulder pads!

Take it from us: if you want to look like you mean business, this ensemble gives you the power.

JACKET & SKIRT 13

PROJECT BY LISA COMFORT | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A FEW DREAMY HOURS OF STITCHING

SEW YOUR OWN HEIRLOOM

TULLE VEIL

and decorate with vintage brooches We all want to look our best on our big day, and what could be more satisfying than your true love lifting up your handmade veil as you say ‘I do’? For a truly stunning headpiece, stitch in a silk tulle that will glide elegantly behind you as you walk up the aisle. Alternatively, opt for an inexpensive tulle with a little crunch to it. Add a personal touch with heirloom brooches so you can take a little bit of history with you on your special day.

ESSENTIAL KIT

Tulle, 1m Co-ordinating thread PLUS: Clear comb Vintage buttons or brooches MEASUREMENTS: Custom sized

Find guide online makeit today.co.uk

size matters Short veils can be made to whatever length you desire, but they look best if they sit below the shoulder and above your bottom. If you are making a fulllength veil, make sure it either matches the hem of your dress or extends over it.

Make it Today!

56

PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS/INTERMEDIATE | SHOULD TAKE A BUDDING WEEKEND OF TAILORING HEAVEN

GET PETAL PRETTY WITH A

TULIP DRESS that’s always in season

A tailored dress can be blooming marvellous, and Amanda Walker’s fresh geo twist on the classic tulip style pairs a fitted waistline with a petal-shaped hemline, creating a cool silhouette. It gives you the perfect chance to stretch your stitching muscle with a variety of sewing techniques, incorporating bias binding, an elasticated waistband and a buckled belt, so you can brush up on your dressmaking techniques while making a truly stylish hardy perennial!

ESSENTIAL KIT

Fabric, 3.3m x 150cm Co-ordinating thread Elastic, 1cm wide PLUS: Hook and bars Self-adhesive buckram Buckle Copydex MEASUREMENT: Custom sized

Find pattern online makeit today.co.uk

CUTTING GUIDE:

Front: Cut Four (Two Pairs) Back: Cut One on Fold Elastic: 38cm (small), 42cm (medium), 46cm (large) 1.5cm seam allowances throughout, except for back neckline edge, which is bound.

Stitch right sides together unless otherwise instructed.

Make it Today!

36

PROJECT BY TANYA WHELAN | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNER/INTERMEDIATE | SHOULD TAKE A LOVELY WEEKEND IN THE SEWING ROOM

STITCH A PRETTY

VERSATILE DRESS

ESSENTIAL KIT

Cotton, 3m x 114cm wide Co-ordinating thread PLUS: Concealed zip, bodice back length plus 20.5cm

and practise perfect pleats

MEASUREMENTS: Custom sized

Find pattern online makeit today.co.uk

Come rain or shine, you simply can’t go wrong with a cute dress. This style is as classic as they come and its pretty pleated detail is sure to improve your dressmaking skills. Sewn up in a delightful lemon gingham, it makes for the perfect spring attire. The longer length is flattering for all sizes and if made in a lightweight cotton, it’s an ideal wardrobe staple.

The Knowledge: understitching Understitching helps prevent the facing or lining peeking out. After sewing the facing to the bodice, trim the seams. Press the dress and facing seam allowances towards the facing side of the seam.

Stitch both allowances, staying within 0.6cm of the seam stitching to the facing. Keep the facing and seam allowances flat as they pass under your needle. The allowances will splay out, which is exactly the result you want.

CUTTING GUIDE:

Use a 1.5cm seam allowance Main fabric Bodice Front: Cut One on Fold Bodice Back: Cut Two

Make it Today!

48

PROJECT BY TORIE JAYNE | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE AN EASY WEEKEND OF SWISHY STITCHINESS

LONG, SHORT OR REVERSIBLE, THIS

WRAP SKIRT is the perfect all-rounder

Curvy, slender, short or tall: we come in all shapes and sizes, which is why this versatile skirt pattern from The McCall’s Pattern Company is such a treat. Whether you crave a sweet knee-length A-line or the more daring contours of a geo maxi, McCall’s M7129 four-way design is tailor-made to suit all tastes.

The beauty of this wrap style is its simplicity: incorporating just a waistband, pockets and ties, it frees up your imagination so the only thing you need think about is which fabric you’ll choose. And if you fancy the reversible option, you can throw in two favourite fabs instead of one: quite simply, it’s a wrap!

Make it Today!

26

PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A STITCHY DAY OF CONTINENTAL STYLINGS

FOR INSTANT OOH LA LA, MAKE A

PARISIENNE TOP to boost your couture credentials

Steal some inspiration from your continental cousins and add a little je ne sais quoi to your look. Made using two simple pattern pieces, this lovely draped top deploys a tie-to-fit belt and a cowl neck to create a stunning waistline. Ardent fashionistas will love its endless versatility, adding effortless glamour while also being casual enough to wear with jeans. With elements of romance, femininity and fashion cool, it’s cute, it’s chic, c’est magnifique!

ESSENTIAL KIT

Fabric, 1.70m x 150cm Matching thread MEASUREMENT: Custom sized

Find pattern online makeit today.co.uk

PARISIENNE TOP 1 Prepare the front and back fabric pieces using the pattern downloaded from makeittoday.co.uk. Cut a bias strip from a scrap of the main fabric, at a 45° angle from the grain. The strip needs to be 4cm x 30cm, so it’s long enough to fit around the back neckline. Fold and press in 1cm on either side.

2 Open one side of the bias strip and position it around the neckline. Pin in place and sew along the fold line pressed into the strip. Fold the strip over on to the wrong side of the neckline and position the remaining folded edge over the stitching line. Pin and edgestitch, sandwiching the raw edge of the neckline inside the bias binding. You can do this by slip-stitching by hand if you prefer. Trim excess binding at the edges of the shoulders.

CUTTING GUIDE:

Front: Cut One on Fold Back: Cut One on Fold Tie belt: Cut a strip 10cm x 180cm A 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, with exception of the back neck edge, which is bound, and the tie belt, where a 1cm seam allowance is used. Stitch with right sides together unless otherwise instructed.

3 Neaten the edges of the back shoulder seams and across the shoulders and neckline of the front piece by overlocking or using a zigzag stitch.

Stitch the shoulder seams together, matching the ends of the back neckline to the dots on the front neckline. Press the seam allowance open, folding the neck facing inside.

4 Neaten the edges of the side seams with a zigzag or overlocking stitch. Stitch the side seams together, then press the seams open. Tidy around the armholes, turning in the 3cm hem and handstitching in place. Neaten the hem at the base of the top in the same way.

5 Make the tie belt by folding a narrow 10cm x 180cm strip in half lengthways and stitching together with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving a gap in the stitching line towards the centre. Trim the corners and turn to the right side through the gap. Slip-stitch the gap closed.

Make it Today!

22

SUBSCRIBE TODAY

3 issues for only £12.99!

Save more than £18!* BUMPER STITCH KIT WITH EVERY ISSUE

Great Reasons to Subscribe

As well as receiving a different stitch kit each issue, learning step-by-steps and new techniques, plus exclusive projects from the UK’s top designers to produce stylish and original pieces in hours, you will: Get FREE delivery straight to your door before it hits the shops Save more than £18* off the cover price Spread the cost with a Direct Debit Receive regular supplements and covermounted gifts!

EASY WAYS TO SUBSCRIBE

VISIT: WWW.MAKEITTODAY.CO.UK OR CALL: 01795 414915 QUOTE: MIT1015-1 *This is a UK-only Direct Debit offer. Gift is only available to UK subscribers. Existing subscribers can renew using this offer. Your subscription will begin with the next available issue. Subscriptions are for a 12-month period including all gift subscriptions. Your free gift will be dispatched within 28 days of your payment being received (sent separately from the magazine). If your subscription is a gift, the gift and gift card will be sent to the donor. You can also subscribe via cheque or credit card. In the event of a gift being faulty or damaged, please contact us within 28 days of receiving the gift. This offer is subject to availability; an alternative gift may be supplied to the same or greater value. This is a limited offer and may be withdrawn at any time. Photocopies accepted. Cancellation policy applies: refer online or contact customer services for more details.