Make It Today Issue 14 Dressmaking Preview

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ISSUE 14 | £7.99 MAY 2016

Plus: Dressing The Queen . Floral Swing Skirt . Amy Butler Tote . Bra Masterclass

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Contents: dressmaking ISSUE 14

RELAX AND READ

YOUR KIT MAKES 13 PULLOVER DRESSES A simple-to-sew design in three fab combinations

40 FLORAL FASCINATOR Add glamour to a special outfit with a floral headpiece

6 NEWS Everything you need to know about what’s happening in the world of sewing

24 STYLISH SEPARATES Essential pieces for every gal’s summer wardrobe

50 GARMENT CARRIERS Keep your frocks in pristine condition whilst on the move

EXTRA PROJECTS

52 FABRIC MICE Stitch and dress-up adorable felt creatures for the kiddie-winks

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8 NOTICEBOARD We share your latest makes and upcycled garments!

54 THE BOOKS Find inspiration with our selection of creative reads

27 FASHIONING A REIGN Celebrating 90 years of royal style with HRH Queen Elizabeth

IN EVERY ISSUE

34 SEWING DETECTIVE Seamstress Francis Cowper shares tips on how to make a beautiful belt

18 BUTTON-WRAP SKIRT Stitch a sumptuous, swishy garment that’s full of swing 20 LIBERTY PRINT WAISTCOAT A tailored piece to complement your work attire

REGULARS

11 ESSENTIAL KIT Handy measuring tools to get your project off on the right foot

22 TOTE BAG Create a lovely hold-all to match your summer stitches

38 LEISUREWEAR SHOWCASE Work those stretch fabrics and create pieces for comfort and exercise

32 TRAVEL SEWING KIT Stitch a case to carry all of your favourite fashion-fixers

45 FABRIC LOVE A medley of spring and summer prints adorn our fabric collection

36 GREEN SHIRT A classic, light jacket that’s perfect for the sunshine days ahead

48 VINTAGEWEAR SHOWCASE Find out how to create the ultimate classic looks

3 Welcome 5 Inside your kit 30 Giveaways 60 Coming next issue 58 Subscriptions 61 The Practicals

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42 GO SEW PRO! Find out how to develop stitchy techniques to a professional standard 55 SUPPORT ACT Advice and inspiration on making a pretty and perfect-fitting bra 66 INTERVIEW: ESME YOUNG New Great British Sewing Bee judge Esme Young chats to us about the new series

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YOUR DESIGNER PATTERNS

What’s your size?

If you would like a larger size, alternative versions

are available: B6030 (14-22), M7120 (16-26). Call Butterick at 0344 880 1263, quoting voucher code MIT6030 or MIT7120 to redeem your replacement pattern at half price (£4 for B6030 and £4.37 for M7120). Offer valid until 9th July.

DON’T MISS NEXT ISSUE! Two exclusive designer patterns for the summer season!

ON SALE 17TH JUNE 2016 Find out more on page 60

FOUR SOPHISTICATED SEPARATES!

STITCH SIX RELAXED PULLOVER DRESSES!

THIS MONTH...

make it, buY it, love it

New looks, shows, treats and gifts for a stitchy summer of love

PAINT YOUR FASHION

Featuring such tantalising fabric titles as Dripping Paint Warning and Evenly Smudged Fun, Chalk & Paint by Caroline Hulse showcases pastels teeming with attitude.

Splattered with mesmerising bursts of coral, lemon, mint and marshmallow, this cotton selection from Art Gallery Fabrics evoke the immediacy of a freshly dipped paintbrush seeking out the canvas of your imagination. artgallery fabrics.com

ATELIER SUNSHINE

In true cool blue tradition, the new pattern line from The Maker’s Atelier harmonises classic lines with innovative cuts to create stunning frocks, blouses and even a kaftan for those idyllic beach sojourns. These understated designs are reliably figure-flattering whilst also playing with contours in provocative fashion. themakersatelier.com

VEGGING OUT!

A bag range inspired by what you eat? That’s too deliciously fabulous to resist, thanks to green British co-operative Talented and its tastebudtickling totes.

Designer Leslie Astor brings the beauty of the vegetable to your fashion palette with tongue-incheek depictions of Kale, Aubergine, Artichoke and Radish. Viva Vegetables, £13.99. madebytalented.com

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ANIMAL CRACKERS

BUTTON SPECIAL!

Creature comforts for button lovers

A GRAND DAY OUT As the return of popular mini festival GrandFest proves, age is no barrier to inspiring others. Set in Spitalfields Market in East London and hosted by the Royal Voluntary Service, this celebration of heritage skills pools creative pursuits across the generations in a series of fun masterclasses.

5th June, grandfest.royalvoluntaryservice.org.uk

STREET SMART

Some of the most pioneering fashions of the last century started on the fringes of society, as this book by Josh Sims illustrates. The intriguing ‘100 Ideas That Changed Street Style’ brings together the tribal and the trendy, with full-colour photography depicting classic looks such as New Romantic, Surf Culture and Disco alongside Hipster, Geek Chic, Greaser and Cosplay. £19.95, laurenceking.com

Go wild, go wild, go wild in the country with Tilda Candy Bloom, a folksy but loud-spoken cotton collection guaranteed to elevate your spirits and your wardrobe.

Bedecked in pastoral splendour, this latest whimsical offering from the world of Norwegian designer Tone Finnanger is replete with bubblegum tints and vintage sensibilities, and features notepads, charm packs and fabric wallpapers as well as fancy fabric bundles. £16.80 per metre. tildasworld.com, groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

FAYRE’S FAIR Never one to let the dust gather on her sewing machine for a second, tireless Tilly Walnes of pattern brand Tilly and the Buttons and GBSB fame is now turning her hand to online video classes. Enjoy a front row seat with a knowledgeable yet approachable tutor, who’s only too happy to talk you through common stitching issues and top trouble-shooting tips – all part of her crusade to transform sewing resources for the modern-day DIY fashionista. tillyandthebuttons.com

BUTTERFLY BLUES Pack of 10, £1.50. etsy.com/uk/ shop/TreacleCottageCrafts

ELEPHANTS REMEMBER Psychedelic trunk-carriers. From £1.44, charmedimsureuk.etsy.com

I WANT CANDY! TIME FOR TILLY

LITTLE FOXES Fox with socks! Set of two buttons, £2.70. sewcraftyonline.co.uk

Bringing new meaning to the phrase ‘taking it to the streets’, the joint enterprise of Aldershot’s Bids and Pieces Haberdashery and Rushmoor Borough Council is doing its bit for community spirit with the launch of a monthly Craft Fayre. Bridget and Phil, who started out with one stall in the local shopping centre, came up with the idea to generate greater footfall for their beloved town.

Save the date: Saturday 4th June and Saturday 2nd July, stallholders pay just £20. rushmoor.gov.uk, 01252 318629

NEWS 7

LOVE CATS A mewsing collection of fun felines with their own bow-ties! Packs of 10, £1.64, buttonenvyuk.etsy.com

WOODLAND FRIENDS Beguiling trio of chums. Packs of three, £3, FireHorseTextiles.folksy.com

PROJECTS BY JAYNE CORDLE AND TORIE JAYNE | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A FUN WEEKEND OF PULLOVER POTENTIAL

GO BOLD, GO FOLKY, GO CASUAL, WITH A

PULLOVER DRESS that absolute beginners are sure to love

How can a simple dress pattern give you so many options, you might ask? This month’s triple bill of beautiful frocks really does have something for everyone, whether you’re after a quick maxi make for the beach or a bit of ruched sleeve action for a glam night out. Offering your choice of neckline and pocket variation, these semi-fitted pullover dresses don’t need zips or intricate fastenings – just a simple bust dart, stitched hem and belt, and you’re good to go. Long or flowing with a daring side-split, or longsleeved and tunic-style for a more modest professional look, these pretty gowns will work a treat with cottons, linens and even slinky crêpe de chine. For a summer of ease and easy travels, three truly is a charm.

use e e r f r u o y pattern

PULLOVER DRESS 13

PROJECT BY CORINNE BRADD | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A TOTES FABULOUS DAY OF STITCHING

CARRY YOUR ESSENTIALS AROUND IN STYLE WITH THIS

TOTE BAG

that is practical, and fun to make ESSENTIAL KIT

Co-ordinating fabrics, two fat quarters Plain cotton, one fat quarter Lining fabric, 0.5m Leather bag handles, two Matching thread

Find pattern online makeit today.co.uk If you’re looking for a way to use a pretty fat quarter bundle that’s been sitting among your fabric stash for a while, this is the project for you! Co-ordinating floral and geometric prints look fabulously bold and beautiful with this design. So put them fat quarters to use and create a practical, colourful tote to brighten up your spring wardrobe.

TOTE BAG 1 Using the template, cut a bottom bag panel from a geometric print, and a top panel from floral. Cut a 3cm x 38cm strip of plain fabric and fold in half lengthways. Pin the two bag panels right sides together, along the centre seam only, sandwiching the folded strip between them and lining up all raw edges. Stitch across with a 5mm seam allowance. Fold out the fabric and press the fold of the plain fabric towards the geometric print. And the seam allowance towards the floral. Top stitch the seam allowance in place. Repeat for the other half of the bag.

2 Cut a 15cm square from floral print and a 15cm x 16cm piece of plain. Stitch right

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PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A WEEKEND OF DRAPEY DRESSMAKING INSPIRATION

PLAY WITH PANELS FOR AN EASY

BUTTON-WRAP SKIRT that’s a smart summer classic

The modest, comely charms of the button-wrap give us gals a lovely swish of movement and ease of wear, irrespective of our silhouette.

Thanks to its repeating panels and simple, fuss-free attachment, it’s an obvious hit for a budding dressmaker. Tapping directly into the ongoing fifties revival, its rockabilly charms pay homage to the slinky pop-and-pose freedom celebrated by coutourier Pierre Balmain to exhilerating effect with Bridget Bardot in And God Created Woman.

Why not go bold for a seasonal splash of on-trend colour, and pick a high-contrast floral design for a blooming lovely finish?

BUTTON-WRAP SKIRT

1 Cut the pieces using the pattern at makeittoday.co.uk.

With right sides facing, align the two front and side panels, pin and sew. Match the side pieces to the back panels and pin. Secure with a straight stitch. Trim the seams and front edge panels, and press. Fold and press the marked edges of the front to form the facings.

ESSENTIAL KIT

Main fabric, heavyweight cotton, 2m x 140cm Fusible interfacing, lightweight, 20cm Matching thread Buttons, two

2 Fuse the interlining to the wrong side of the waistband. Fold and press in 1.5cm along one of the long edges. Pin the other long edge of the waistband to the top of the skirt, leaving the 1.5cm seam allowance protruding from each end.

Find pattern online makeit today.co.uk

3 Machine-sew and fold the ends of the waistband back on itself. Stitch across the protruding ends so they align with the fold of the facing. Trim the bulk and turn the waistband to the right side. Press the seam allowance at the top up inside the waistband.

Machine edge-stitch the waistband closed or hand slip-stitch in place.

CUTTING GUIDE:

MAIN FABRIC Front skirt: Cut one pair Side skirt: Cut one pair Back skirt: Cut one on fold Waistband: Cut one Trouser front: Cut one pair Trouser back: Cut one pair INTERFACING Front skirt: Cut one pair (line indicated on pattern) Waistband: Cut one

4 To work the hems, fold the skirt to the wrong side 5mm around the lower edge and press. Edge-stitch the hem to secure. Make two buttonholes, one on the right-hand end of the waistband and one inside the front dart and front peplum panel. Sew buttons on the left-hand edge of the band to correspond with the buttonholes.

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CHOOSE YOUR STYLE WITH AN

ALL-PURPOSE SHIRT for effortless impact

One classic shirt will give a touch of dynamism to any outfit, adding a tailored finish to a skirt ensemble while creating the perfect complement to the always-reliable white tee and favourite jeans. Worn loose or fitted, this project also gives you the perfect chance to practise beltmaking skills, giving a flattering cinch that will accentuate the waistline and elongate your frame, so it’s the perfect way to quickly get in shape for all those summer strolls!

ESSENTIAL KIT

Cotton print fabric, 2.4m x 114cm Fusible interlining: lightweight, 1m x 50cm; heavyweight, 1m x 1m Metal buckle for 3.5cm belt Buttons, 2cm, four Metal eyelets, four

Find pattern online makeit today.co.uk

CUTTING GUIDE:

MAIN FABRIC Front: Cut one pair Back: Cut one on fold Yoke: Cut one pair Sleeve: Cut one pair Long sleeve facing: Cut one pair Collar: Cut one pair Belt: Cut two INTERFACING: Front: Cut one pair (line indicated on pattern) INTERLINING: Collar: Cut one Belt: Cut one (heavyweight)

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GET THE LOOK! BAG £29.99, GLASSES £24.99, TK MAXX (01923 473561), CAMISOLE £12.99, RED HERRING AT DEBENHAMS (0844 561 6161), JEANS £19.90 UNIGLO (UNIGLO.COM)

PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A STITCHY WEEKEND OF GOING GREEN

PROJECT BY JAYNE CORDLE | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A DOUBLE DAY OF STITCHING BLISS

FITTED AND FLARED, THESE

STYLISH SEPARATES

rock the office and the beach

For a cute take on the seventies interpretation of a Dior staple, the A-line, this Lifestyle selection from Butterick is a bright and breezy combo that creates an effortlessly chic and comfortable silhouette. The gently flared skirt is a direct throwback to the sporty style of Chris Evert, while the classical lines of the jacket and trousers bring the individuality of Diane Keaton's Annie Hall bang up to date.

Incorporating wide-shoulder straps, bands and back buttons, the fitted top also gives you a chance to practise your princess seams. Paired with a clutch and heels for graceful sophistication, or a pair of pumps for easy fashion points, this is one carefree combo that's guaranteed to turn heads

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PROJECT BY LISA STEED DAVEY | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A FLORAL-FILLED AFTERNOON

COMPLETE A SPECIAL OUTFIT WITH A

FLORAL FASCINATOR that every beginner can make

With wedding season in full swing, we couldn’t find a better excuse to create a beautiful headpiece or two for the occasion. Fascinators are the perfect accessory to complement a special outfit. These intricate pieces can be expensive to buy, and may seem tricky to make – however, with our easy instructions, you’ll have a piece that adds impact, detail and texture to your outfit in no time.

ESSENTIAL KIT

Veiling: 9in Russian, lilac, purple or yellow, 1m of each Sinamay bases: yellow, purple, 11cm Lace, white: large scalloped, flower motif Large vintage rose: yellow, purple Small paper roses: yellow, two Felt: yellow, purple Spray paint: yellow, purple Tiara bands: two Beads: crystal bicone, purple, five Pearl: purple, 12mm, one Thread, co-ordinating Glue gun

Find pattern online makeit today.co.uk

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