Dermascope September 2017 by Design2Pro

The Encyclopedia of Aesthetics & Spa Therapy

September 2017

Acne & Ingredients

Menopause & Marketing

Body Contouring & Special Events

Beauty & Retail The Official Publication of Aesthetics International Association

Ask An Expert Katy Muenter, Product Research & Development Manager at Éminence and Marine Biologist, shares the benefits of natural ingredients for your skin and her expert knowledge of the Earth’s aquatic eco-system.

Algae provide high concentrations of nutrients and amino acids that replenish and deliver superior hydrating benefits P R O D U C T R E S E A R C H & D E V E LO P M E N T M A N AG E R A N D M A R I N E B I O LO G I S T K AT Y M U E N T E R

to the skin.

that use the energy from the sun to grow. These range in size from

I have a shellfish allergy. Can I use the products in the Marine Flower Peptide Collection?

a single cell to over 50 meters long, and can be found in every

The Marine Flower Peptide Collection does not contain any

environment on the planet, including marine intertidal zones, hot

shellfish or animal-derived ingredients. If you can swim in the

springs, and even within ice and snow. Algae have many unique

ocean, you should have no adverse reactions to any products in

adaptations that help protect them from environmental damage so

this collection. As always, we recommend conducting a patch test

they can survive in these extreme conditions. The Marine Flower

before using any new skin care product. If you have a sensitivity

Peptide products feature several innovative algae extracts that

to iodine, you should check with your allergist prior to use.

Are algae plants or animals? Neither! Algae are a special type of “photosynthetic” organism

impart these same powerful benefits to the skin!

Why are algae considered the “superfoods of the sea”? Algae provide high concentrations of nutrients and amino acids that replenish and deliver superior hydrating benefits to the skin. Just like land-based superfoods (such as blueberries and kale) are vibrant in color, the antioxidant pigments found in brightlycolored algae include chlorophyll and beta-carotene which naturally protect the skin.

Look for more great information about this and other Éminence collections by visiting: www.eminenceorganics.com/blog

IMMERSE YOUR SKIN WITH MARINE FLOWER PEPTIDES

Smart Collagen+ Complex Doubles collagen density to visibly lift and fill wrinkles*

If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and Biodynamic® skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com. *

In vivo results after 84 day clinical study

skin beauty The full spectrum of skincare and makeup.

To learn more about the benefits of a Glo Skin Beauty business partnership visitÂ gloskinbeauty.com/partnership

Excessive inflammation, dehydration, visible capillaries, increased sensitivity, erythema, or dullness with the skin. These are just a few signs of a Compromised Barrier in need of repair. Rhonda Allisonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2017 CBR Facial & Peel Restores the Epidermal Barrier/Infuses Skin with Nutrients, Moisture-Binding & Building Ingredients/Soothes, Nourishes & Reduces Redness/Hydrates, Protects & Revitalizes

Boost results with pure liposome aloe vera & hyaluronic acid to hydrate and reduce inflammation. For more information, visit us at rhondaallison.com | 866-313-SKIN (7546)

The Encyclopedia of Aesthetics & Spa Therapy

September 2017

Volume 42, No. 9

Sensitized Skin & Medical Aesthetics

Articles

53 54 60 73 80

An Introduction to Beauty Beauty Happy Hour: Creating a Successful Makeup Bar by Shawn Towne

Top 6 Tricks to Master Makeup by Michelle Richardson, L.E.

A Teen Makeup Step-by-Step by Amanda Azar, L.E.

How to Sell Without Being Pushy by Bella Schneider, P.M.E.

CONTENTS

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

The Encyclopedia of Aesthetics & Spa Therapy

September 2017 Volume 42, No. 9

33 91 29

114

contents

DEPARTMENTS 10 On Our Website 12 Editor’s Note 14 AIA Welcome 16 Contributors 21 Take Note 27 Leading the Pack 29 What’s Your Recipe 31 Makeup Matters 33 Resources 39 The Business Breakdown 45 Game Changers

49 77 89 91 95 105 107 111 113 114

Exhibitor Spotlight Tools of the Trade Latest Launches 10 Things About… Scope This CEU Exam Worth a Look Educational Listings Advertisers Index Fact or Fiction

There is so much more to check out on DERMASCOPE.com! Read exclusive online content on our website, including articles, blogs, videos, and more. In addition, discover the extended version of some of the articles printed in the magazine. Read the featured online exclusive article of this month, Delivery of Skin Nutrition: Topical and Internal by Dana Laurie, formulation developer for Pink Horizons Botanical Skin Care. Get a sneak peek of the content on page 26 of this issue!

D E R M A S C O P E | S e p t e m b e r 2 017

HELLO GORGEOUS.

GOODBYE AGE. Professional Age Control Solutions

Visit Us! Ft. Lauderdale Booth #917 Atlanta Booth 304

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504-469-3500

www.dermaware.com

A.G.E. STOP FACIAL Stop age in its tracks with this firming, lifting, wrinkle and antiglycation control facial. Non-acidic enzymes gently prepare the skin to receive a shot of Neuropeptides, Precious Argan and Persian Silk Tree to smooth, hydrate and firm skin. Try the A.G.E Stop Smart Serum ÂŽ Professional Collection (Peel, Mask Serum, Moisturizer) today!

medical and spa

professionals register now www.dermaware.com/ professional

on our website

DERMASCOPE.com ON THE BLOG

Eminence Organics

SPONSORED BY

LNEonline.com • Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program USA: 305.443.2322

FAX: 305.443.1664

Take Note Take note of industry announcements, news, and more! NEW FACES AND SPACES One of the industry’s outstanding innovators in the world of holistic skin therapies, Anne C. Willis, is proud to announce the launch of De La Terre Skincare’s state-of-the-art showroom and Training Center located in Asheville, North Carolina. The expansion for the company is a direct response to the exponential growth experienced in the health and wellness market, and is a testament to De La Terre Skincare’s commitment to health oriented skin care formulas and applications that support one’s overall well-being.

Spa Nalai at Park Hyatt New York is home to the latest luxury treatment collection – CelleClé Skincare. The company is thrilled to announce that Spa Nalai at Park Hyatt New York has become the latest CelleClé Skincare spa partner! Nalai, meaning serenity, provides a uniquely tailored spa experience. Located inside Park Hyatt New York, Spa Nalai features the finest amenities for optimal wellness and relaxation. Take in the views of the city skyline from their separate men and women’s locker rooms. As crowds rush by on the streets of Midtown Manhattan below, clients can take a moment to unwind from everyday stresses in the indoor hydrotherapy area featuring a lap pool, whirlpool, and co-ed eucalyptus steam room before heading to a spa suite for a CelleClé Skincare facial experience. The visionary individuals at ECHO2Plus are proud to present our newly updated website. With a fresh and clean new look, echo2plus.com now features updated information, explanatory videos and a helpful FAQ section which can help both novice and seasoned aestheticians become more knowledgeable about using ECHO2Plus products. More knowledge equals increased profitability for spas! The Starter Pack page now features in depth descriptions and photographs of the products included in the ECHO2Plus opening order. The company is very proud of the astounding results photographs in the section highlighting the Oxyceuticals Oxygen Acne Treatment. Featuring the multiple awards that ECHO2Plus won in 2017, the links section also contains print articles and testimonials from ECHO2Plus users who are overjoyed with the results they achieved in their spas.

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take note

Helix BioMedix, Inc., a biopharmaceutical company specializing in peptides, recently announced the promotion of Robin L. Carmichael to the position of chief executive officer in addition to her current role as president. She will continue as a member of the company’s Board of Directors. Carmichael will be responsible for all aspects of management of Helix BioMedix including profits and losses, operations, sales, marketing, business development, pharmaceutical and consumer product programs, and research and development. She will report directly to the Board of Directors. Carmichael joined the company in

2007 as vice president of marketing and business development. She was promoted to chief operating officer in 2011, and later to president and chief operating officer in 2015.

take note AWARDS AND CELEBRATIONS

honor to be recognized for our efforts. We are thrilled to win this prestigious award for the third year in a row.”

The Association of Holistic Skin Care Practitioners (AHSCP) holds its 10th Annual Holistic Skin Care Conference at the Crowne Plaza Chicago O’Hare Hotel on November 5-6, 2017. The AHSCP offers the latest research on natural ingredients, demonstrations of European and Eastern methods for individualized skin care protocols, holistic skin care certification, and continuing education for aestheticians. AHSCP believes that a natural approach to skin care is an effective long-term solution for healthy, beautiful skin. This includes the use of products with food grade quality ingredients and non-invasive methods for corrective, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory skin care treatments. Better Business Bureau recognizes NovaLash with The Award of Distinction for three years running. In recognizing businesses for their achievements and commitment to quality in the workplace, NovaLash was recognized at the Better Business Bureau Award Ceremony. Recognized as a Winner of Distinction, this was the third time the Better Business Bureau awarded NovaLash for service excellence. When asked what it means to NovaLash to receive this recognition, Beth Fetzer, COO of NovaLash, states, “We work hard to provide top notch service to our customers and clients and it is an

The luxury care range Platinum Care by Janssen Cosmetics has won the SPA Diamond Award 2017 in the category Beauty Anti-Aging! Ulrich Janssen, the director of the family company from Aachen, which exports its professional cosmetic products to more than 85 countries worldwide, is clearly thrilled about the award. Jansenn says, “We have just travelled in from Vienna, where we celebrated our 20-year company anniversary

Advanced Hydration +

take note

Lucrece The B3 Hydration Serum takes hydration to another level with high concentration and expertly balanced Sodium Hyaluronate, a skin smoothing peptide, and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3). - Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is shown to reduce fine lines, suppress melanin, helping to prevent age spots, freckles, and hyperpigmentation - UV Protection & Increased Elasticity

“Inspired by Nature, Realized by Science” LU C RÈ C E P H Y S I C I A N S ’ AEST H ET IC RESEA RCH | 800.626.7546 | www.l u c rece.com

D E R M A S C O P E | S e p t e m b e r 2 017

The Next Level of Skincare

Visit Lira Clinical at

ICES

Long Beach, CA

September 10th &11th

Booth #309 & #311

RedeďŹ ning Solar Shield Technology Learn how Lira Clinical is Redefining Aesthetics and pioneering anti-aging technology with cutting edge sunscreens that combine the best of science and nature. Experience results-driven products and professional treatments.

www.liraclinical.com | Live

Love Lira

| 877.440.5472 | info@liraclinical.com

take note with 150 clients from 58 countries. To win the SPA Diamond Award here in Berlin, in a competition with very strong brands, is simply unbelievable.” Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals, a leader in professional skin care and advanced aesthetics, recently named Larisa Bercu with Nekadam Skin Care the winner of their 2017 National Face-Off Competition. Second place was awarded to Jaclyn Herbert with Serenity Skin Studio and Alexandra Wallin was named third place winner. The 90-day challenge encouraged master aestheticians to showcase their talents and contributions to the field of aesthetics and celebrated the art of skin rejuvenation. Finalists were chosen based on client progress over a three-month period using Rhonda Allison treatment systems and homecare products. Winners were then selected based on the most significant skin changes, challenges overcome, and overall results. All three winners received cash prizes and Rhonda Allison products, with the Larisa Bercu taking home a $1,500 cash prize, $1,000 in Rhonda Allison products, and more than $1,000 in homecare products for her client.

take note

SkinOwl is honored to announce their Matcha Beauty Bar is the runner-up in Prevention Magazine's 2017 Natural Beauty Awards! Founder of SkinOwl, Annie Tevelin said, “We are so thrilled to have our much loved Matcha Beauty Bar included in

D E R M A S C O P E | S e p t e m b e r 2 017

Prevention's Natural Beauty Awards! It makes me personally happy to know that other people are able to enjoy the skin glowing benefits the Matcha Beauty Bar has to offer!”

IN THE NEWS Spas depend on their vendors for a wide variety of products, services, and support functions. Managing these relationships is time consuming and businesses need to spend less time placing orders to have more time servicing clients. Many spa owners and spa directors find themselves working outside the spa to complete their weekly work. According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics data, 22 percent of employed persons did some or all of their work at home. Spa professionals perform a growing number of diverse tasks in today’s technology-driven economy and should select wholesale partners capable of anticipating these evolving needs. ExPürtise® is now offering an online wholesale ordering platform designed to streamline access to professional resources and simplify the ordering process.

For more current industry news, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

DERMASCOPE.com

Community • Spa • Products • Education Online EXCLUSIVE Article

Delivery of Skin Nutrition: Topical and Internal

by Dana Laurie, formulation developer for Pink Horizons Botanical Skin Care Several skin issues surface because of various factors that include the environment, genetics, and nutritional contributors. Arguably, nutrition plays the largest role in skin health because it is the one factor that individuals have the most control over. Nutrients in the skin come from consuming certain foods and vitamins, as well as the topical application of products. The nutrients people feed their skin are extremely important in maintaining skin integrity over time; without the proper nutrient level, many problems can arise. The delivery method of nutrients also plays a role in how nutrients are absorbed and regulated. While skin nutrition is received both topically and internally, the vitamins people gather can actually cause or resolve problems. Traditionally, topical applications of products are widely used to address skin issues. Internal supplementation, however, has also become an effective measure in promoting skin health. The combination of both methods may prove to compliment the efficacy of each. In understanding the role of both delivery methods, it becomes clearer that perhaps a thoughtful, integrated approach may be more effective for both the body and skin over time. To read more of Delivery of Skin Nutrition: Topical and Internal, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

BLOGS FORUMS

E-newsletter

It is time for you to join the “blogosphere!”

Stay Informed of the Latest and Greatest News in the Aesthetics Industry!

Allow DERMASCOPE.com to help you express your thoughts as a skin care professional by creating a personal blog. Engage with your followers, receive feedback by regularly providing topical and relevant information and resources, and distribute your content more widely thanks to maximum search engine optimization provided by DERMASCOPE. com. Become a part of 40 years of encyclopedic knowledge in our aesthetic industry!

Get the best of what DERMASCOPE Magazine has to offer – delivered right to your inbox! By signing up for our digital newsletter, you will receive the latest news and trends in the aesthetics industry. Each e-newsletter is customized with the latest editorial content DERMASCOPE has to offer. It is the best way to stay informed about upcoming events, forum and blog topics, new website content, special announcements and offers, and so much more!

D E R M A S C O P E | S e p t e m b e r 2 017

leading the pack

Robert Trow CEO of ROCASUBA – RapidLash Other than your products, what are the greatest assets and strengths your company offers? No question – our team. Simply put, the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. It is all about being a family. Just ask our staff.

What advice do you have for someone planning to start a career in this field? First, do your homework; be prepared to forgo a salary for a year or two if you want to be an owner. Also, never forget that you do not have all the answers; listen, listen, listen.

ob Trow began his career in higher education, serving for over two decades as a professor and administrator at several universities and as a consultant to the corporate world. He holds two masters degrees and did his doctorial studies at Harvard University. He left higher education after being recruited to enter the corporate world where he rose to the position of president of a half a billion dollar privately held company. After a

What is your biggest hope for the industry going forward? Mandatory and high level professional education to elevate our profession. That the skin care industry finally recognizes the importance of the skin care professional in ensuring the “prescribing” of the right products for the individual. One size does not fit all.

leading the pack

very brief retirement, he joined his wife, Carol, to found DermaConcepts USA., exclusive United States distributors of Environ Skin Care and subsequently founded ROCASUBA to bring to market RapidLash. Together, they have published over 100 articles on skin science, formulations, packaging efficacy, skin care ingredients, and the business of cosmetic and aesthetic practices. Trow has been a featured speaker at a myriad of national and international conferences on both the science and business of cosmeceuticals.

What do you see as an upcoming trend in the industry? The dramatic use of at-home devices, rapid expansion of new technologies to enhance efficacy, many brands bypassing skin care professionals, and marketing direct to consumers, and more non-invasive procedures. I remain alarmed at the increasing presence of multi-level marketing and false claims on our industry.

For more of our chat with Robert, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

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ADVERTORIAL

Skin Script Skin Care

kin Script was created by an aesthetician, for aestheticians. We understand the importance of quality skin care, outstanding customer service, and complimentary education. We hope you will take advantage of all that Skin Script has to offer.

Skin Script product knowledge and advanced training classes are free and easily accessible.

Outstanding Customer Service We do not have sales representatives in the field; however, we can easily be reached via phone or e-mail. We encourage you to call, e-mail, or stop by our office with any questions you may have. You will be greeted by one of our knowledgeable customer

“I love this industry. Aestheticians have kind hearts and are the perfect people to treat skin in a peaceful environment. Being able to provide great skin care that performs, and see aestheticians succeed in treatments and business is very gratifying.” Lisa VanBockern

Quality Skin Care We believe in quality products that are gentle, yet effective. All of our products are paraben-free, fruit based, and ideal for treating all skin types and ethnicities. With a full retail and professional line, Skin Script allows professionals to create and customize at the back bar based on each client. Our products are created to address skin concerns while improving the skin’s appearance. Skin Script’s philosophy is based on the idea of progressive, rather than aggressive, treatments.

care representatives who will gladly answer your questions. Complimentary Education Skin Script product knowledge and advanced training classes are free and easily accessible. We believe in empowering aestheticians through education and great skin care, and do so with regional, in-house and online training — all complimentary for the licensed aesthetician! For online training, visit skinscriptrx.com/skin-

script101/. One-on-one Skype training sessions are also available by request. For more information on our training opportunities, visit skinscriptrx.com/training-schedule.

For more information about Skin Script Skin Care, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

What’s Your Recipe

What’s your recipe for providing luxurious treatments to clients? by Heather Kreider, co-owner of Makes Scents Natural Spa Line

he spa industry is a trade of hospitality and service. At its center are friendliness, warmth, compassion, and giving. Creating this atmosphere is not optional; it is a must. Clients expect skin care professionals to create a respite from the stress of their hectic daily lives. They seek a place offering luxurious treatments that will restore a sense of well-being and tranquility. Fortunately, professionals do not have to break their budget to craft the right ambiance. They only need to follow a few simple steps to give clients the indulgence they are looking for. MAKE THE APPROACH WARM AND WELCOMING Set a positive tone for the provider-guest relationship. Direct eye contact, a heartfelt smile, and sincere introductions help clients feel at ease and appreciated. Showing clients that the professional is honored to serve them should be at the forefront of the professional’s thoughts when greeting clients.

KNOW THE PRODUCTS Understanding products and mastering treatment techniques are essential for providing a luxurious client experience. Give staff members educational opportunities (in-person, video, webinar, and product-specific technical information forms) to bolster their product knowledge and make them more confident technicians. By empowering the spa’s team, owners will enhance the level of service their spa provides to clients.

WELCOME FEEDBACK Ask, listen, and respond respectfully and professionally. The age-old adage of “treating others as you would like to be treated” can go a long way in the skin care industry. Everyone knows how it feels to be rushed or not listened to. When asking clients questions, stop and really listen to what they are communicating. After all, they are paying for and deserve the professional’s dedicated focus. Skin care professionals should make it known that they are there not only to provide a service, but also to provide clients with personalized attention before, during, and after treatments. SHOW GRATITUDE Gratitude goes a long way in nurturing relationships. Clients often thank professionals for their service; at the same time, professionals can thank clients for entrusting them with the client’s care. After all, without clients, skin care professionals would not have jobs. GO ABOVE AND BEYOND When providing treatments, have an “and then some” approach. Strive to provide a high-quality treatment – and then some. Strive to greet clients with a positive attitude – and then some. It is the “and then some” that takes a spa treatment to luxury status.

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

what’s your recipe

MAKE CLIENT COMFORT THE TOP PRIORITY Be sure the treatment table is warm and dry and adjust the temperature of the room so it is comfortable for the client. Professionals may need to warm the room prior to the treatment, especially in advance of a body treatment. Furthermore, it is important to correctly drape the client. Respect each client’s modesty level, exposing only the area that is currently being treated. Reviewing client health questionnaires and asking clients questions can provide valuable information about what professionals can do to keep them comfortable. For example, if a client discloses that she suffers from low back pain, professionals can help minimize that pain by using a pillow or bolster.

Consider creating an enticing product display with treatment ingredients aesthetically featured. This presentation will pique clients’ interest and give them even more of a reason to look forward to skin care treatments. It will also increase the chances of clients purchasing retail products after their sessions.

Makeup Matters

Foundation for Different Skin Types by Annie Mayo, president and CEO of Advanced Mineral Makeup

t is the base of every beauty look and the tool that keeps a person’s confidence in check when their skin will not cooperate: foundation. As with any beauty product, foundation perfects the skin and gives the client a flawless finish. The trick, however, is to pick the right one for the client’s skin type.

tion with buildable coverage so the client can control the coverage for a day or an evening look. The next example would be clients with normal skin. With this client, it is a matter of preference as they can wear all forms of foundation. Seasons will also determine which foundation will be best for the client’s skin type. Skin in colder weather will

typically be drier, whereas skin in hot and humid weather may be oilier. Additionally, clients often want to wear less makeup if in a hot climate. One of the biggest mistakes clients make is picking the wrong color foundation. Professionals should look at the client’s undertone: is it pink or yellow? After making a decision, pick the appropriate color swatch. Put three colors on the client’s face; the one that disappears is the correct shade. Furthermore, do not go too dark on the client’s foundation or there will be a line of demarcation on the jawline. The foundation should blend into their neck and décolletage. Also, everyone should have a minimum of two foundations so that they have a color for summer and a color for winter; they can mix these colors to match their skin throughout the year. Listen to the client and see what they have been using to determine what form of foundation will suite their skin type and try a few different variations so they can feel the difference between them.

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

Makeup Matters

Everyone has wondered which foundation is best for their skin type. Most people have wondered whether they should use liquid foundation, pressed powder foundation, loose powder foundation, or cream foundation. How do they know which foundation will suite their skin the best? The next question is about the desired finish and coverage of the foundation. Do clients want a matte finish, dewy finish, light coverage, or full-coverage foundation? If a client has occasional breakouts, combination skin, and wants something quick and easy, the first thing that should pop into the professional’s head is powder foundation. The finish the client wants will determine if professionals give them pressed or loose powder. Typically, pressed powder has fuller coverage and is more of a matte finish, while loose powder has a bit of luminescence and is a bit more sheer. Another example is a client with dry, more mature skin who likes full coverage, but wants a dewy finish. Professionals should choose a liquid or cream foundation with a light dusting of loose powder. This look will give the client the desired look. Choose a liquid founda-

Resources

The Wonders of Pumpkin by Boldijarre Koronczay and Brian Goodwin

resources

hen most people think of pumpkins, the first thoughts that typically come to their mind are having a comforting, warm pumpkin spice latte when the chill of fall is beginning to set in or enjoying a delicious slice (or two!) of pumpkin pie with the arrival of the holiday season. In general, pumpkins are a delicious ingredient incorporated into celebrating various traditions or seasons; while pumpkins are indeed delicious, they are also a miraculous superfood that contains powerful nutrients, offering benefits to both overall wellness and skin health.

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

resources A superfood is determined by its inherent nutrient profile, as well as the nutrients’ ability to affect change and benefit overall health. These nutrients can include a wealth of antioxidants, minerals, naturally occurring phytochemicals, and other unique properties. Pumpkins just happen to be one of nature’s most splendid superfoods; they are naturally rich with an abundance of active minerals and antioxidants. Pumpkins and pumpkin seeds have been ingested throughout the centuries for holistic medicinal purposes. Comparatively, the skin care industry’s understanding of pumpkins and the topical benefits they have for the skin are relatively new. As mentioned previously, nutrients in superfoods not only have benefit for overall wellness, but also do marvelous things for the skin. For example, the high enzymatic content of pumpkins allows skin care professionals to resurface and exfoliate dry, dead, and dehydrated skin cells to reveal the radiant, more youthful-looking cells underneath, giving the complexion an overall glow. Enzymatic exfoliation is gentle, yet effective, for all skin types and strengthens skin simultaneously with natural antioxidants and vitamins. Pumpkins contain a mega dose of vitamin A, which is an antioxidant that can help to protect cells from free radical damage caused by harmful ultraviolet rays, negate the effects of toxic pollution, and potentially help slow the overall aging process. The high vitamin A content also encourages cell turnover rates to increase. Combine this increased cellular turnover with pumpkin’s active enzymatic content and the skin

Pumpkin E Serum

Pumpkin Enzyme Puree Raya Cosmetics 800-525-7292 rayalab.com

resources

Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals 866-313-7546 rhondaallison.com

Polishing Pumpkin Peel ABI Dermaceuticals 866-999-6954 abiskincare.com

La Defense Urban Protect Micellar Cleansing Water Luzern Laboratories 888-591-7800 luzernlabs.com 34

D E R M A S C O P E | S e p t e m b e r 2 017

Age Activist Clinical Youth Serum

Bioelements Professional Skin Care 800-433-6650 bioelements.com

“

resources With the wide variety of benefits, pumpkin works as an effective ingredient in

virtually all skin care product categories.

will be effectively, and efficiently, resurfaced to show off those beautiful, radiant, newer skin cells. It is important to note that whenever the skin is exfoliated, it should be protected prior to sun exposure with a broad-spectrum sunscreen. While every skin condition can reap the benefits that pumpkins have to offer, the conditions that would see the biggest benefits from using pumpkin as an active ingredient would be hyperpigmentation; loss of vitality; dry skin; dry, break-out prone skin; and dry, aging skin. When it comes to hyperpigmentation, the enzymes from pumpkins love to digest melanin and dead melanocytes, pulling them to the surface of the skin and helping to slough off uneven skin tone and lighten dark spots. For both dry and dry, acne-prone skin, the exfoliating benefits of pumpkin will help to slough off dead skin cells and increase the penetration of every following treatment, such as an antibacterial mask; anti-inflammatory serum; or hydrating, balancing, and nourishing oil. The zinc content that naturally occurs in pumpkin will acceler-

Pumpkin Enzyme Scrub Glo Skin Beauty 800-232-0398 gloskinbeauty.com

ate healing for blemish-prone skin types and the exfoliating enzymatic content will also help to clear and prevent pore blockages that can lead to breakouts. Another added benefit for dry skin is the essential fatty acids contained in pumpkin seeds. Essential fatty acids are referred to as “essential” because people must get them from their diet. The human body cannot make them on its own and the skin is no different. As a result, people need to incorporate the acids into their skin’s daily regimen to ensure the skin stays healthy. Fatty acids make up an important part of the skin’s function as a protective barrier, which includes controlling bacteria, maintaining moisture content, and guarding from allergens or irritants. Using pumpkin seed oils on the skin can enhance this barrier and protect skin from the daily barrage of harmful chemicals. Another important fact to consider is that as people age, this barrier decreases, allowing water to leech from the skin and encouraging impression lines to become permanent rather than temporary. Incorporating healthy fats into a skin care regimen prevents this water loss and can help to build the skin’s natural water content. Pumpkin seed oil is especially effective in lip care products due to the essential fatty acids. With the wide variety of benefits, pumpkin works as an effective ingredient in virtually all skin care product categories. When it comes to a professional grade treatment, pumpkin based peels offer a fantastic opportunity to avoid chemicals and the potential negative side effects associated with these

Multi-Pulp Gel Puree CelleClé Skincare 888-731-2525 cellecleskincare.com

resources

Yam and Pumpkin Enzyme Peel 5% Eminence Organic Skin Care 888-747-6342 eminenceorganics.com

Pumpkin & Orange Mask ilike Organic Skincare 888-290-6238 ilikeorganics.com

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

resources

harsher treatments, while still providing effective results to treat advanced skin conditions. The beauty of selecting products sourced from nature is the powerful way beneficial ingredients can be combined with each other, giving a synergistic effect to treat various skin conditions. Nature has already combined the alpha hydroxy acids, vitamins, active enzymes, minerals, and antioxidants into pumpkins; they are ready to deliver extraordinary benefits to the skin. Another advantage of opting for an organic, nature-based peel is that the client gets more than a peel: they get a skin care treatment that also protects, hydrates, and repairs the skin.

Pro Pumpkin Enzyme Exfoliant

P . E . C Pumpkin Enzyme Complex

ClearChoice Professional 866-589-2949 dermastart.com

resources

Shira Esthetics 800-957-4472 shiraesthetics.com

While pumpkins have a miraculous ability to reveal radiant, youthful skin, it is important to remember that these benefits do not end just with the skin on the face; people should not neglect the biggest surface area of skin â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the body! Pumpkin works wonders to both exfoliate and hydrate the skin simultaneously in body care products, such as a pumpkin mousse body wrap. Incorporating healthy body care products into a daily routine is essential since people tend to neglect their skin. Pumpkin can also be used to treat advanced aging and dryness on the face or body. Either a pumpkin peel or pump-

15% Pumpkin-Orange Enzyme Skin Script Skin Care 480-543-1121 skinscriptrx.com

Combined Enzyme Powders Skin Blends 877-754-6253 skinblends.com

D E R M A S C O P E | S e p t e m b e r 2 017

resources kin hydrating mask will increase cell turnover rates, unveiling glowing skin and aiding in treating conditions such as keratosis polaris, milia, and chronic dryness. As an effective treatment for eczema and psoriasis, mild amounts of pumpkin deliver alpha hydroxy acids to the skin to gently encourage cellular turnover, while zinc and pumpkin seed oil soothe and assist the skin in healing. Alpha hydroxy acids function differently than most people perceive; alpha hydroxy acids do not actually break down skin cells – they break down the water-based intracellular cement (like the mortar that holds bricks together) and encourage the old crumbled skin cells to turn over. The pumpkin’s natural enzymes function by breaking down protein (or keratin) for the skin, helping to soften and break down these cells. This type of exfoliation creates enough activity to signal the body’s own fibroblasts, encouraging them to start creating new collagen and elastin. In high amounts, these acids and enzymes would be great for resurfacing and exfoliating an aging skin type, but should not be used for eczema or psoriasis, as they would be too irritating. However, in mild amounts, the level of activity would be just enough to encourage healing and repair for eczema or psoriasis. Pumpkins not only tantalize the taste buds, but also offer incredible benefits for all skin types and overall health; benefits that should not end seasonally. Pumpkins (and their seeds) should be a part of the skin’s daily diet to prevent, treat, and protect people head-to-toe from multiple concerns and conditions. Incorporating pumpkin into a skin care regimen is a

deliciously effective way to achieve incredible results naturally without any harmful chemicals or additives. Start feeding clients’ skin pumpkin today!

Boldijarre Koronczay, president of Eminence Organic Skin Care, is an icon of the spa industry. Having personally trained over a quarter of a million professionals in the past two decades, his humorous and entertaining presentation style, combined with first class education and Hungarian-inspired treatment techniques, make his Master Classes a crowd favorite at every industry event. His passion for the industry drives him to continue personally educating at trade events, sharing his enthusiasm, inspiration, and knowledge at every session. Koronczay is a survivor of childhood Leukemia, inspiring Eminence Organics to introduce Eminence Kids Foundation, a philanthropic initiative which provides thousands of nutritious, organic meals to seriously ill children in North America and Europe. Brian Goodwin is an international educator for Eminence Organic Skin Care. As a master medical aesthetician, master herbalist, and consultant with over 10 years of experience in the spa industry, Goodwin brings his love and enthusiasm for skin care to the masses with his passionate, fun, and educational trainings. Goodwin has had the honor of educating and consulting over 2,000 distinguished spas and has also been a keynote speaker most notably in New York City, Washington D.C., Los Angeles, and Vancouver, guiding spas towards finding success in both educational and business growth.

Pumpkin Peel™ Mask DermAware® Bio-Targeted Skin Care 888-292-3376 dermaware.com

Pumpkin Enzyme Brightening Peel

Pumpkin Spice Mask

SAIAN® Natural Clinical 800-291-1130 saian.net

resources

Nature Pure Labs 866-640-7546 naturepure.com

Pumpkin Pro Mask Peel Pumpkin Exfoliating Masque CBI Laboratories 800-822-7546 cbiskincare.com

Bio France® Lab 323-846-5933 biofrancelab.com To learn more about these products, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

The Business breakdown

How to Draft a Contract

by Jay A. Shorr, B.A., MBM-C, C.A.C. I-XI and Mara L. Shorr, B.S., C.A.C. II-XI

efore attempting to figure out how to draft a contract, it is important to understand what a contract really is. A contract is a written or spoken agreement, especially one concerning employment, sales, services, or tenancy that is intended to be enforceable by law. In the old days, a simple handshake was good enough, using the old term, “my word is my bond.” Now, in today’s litigious society, it is not even posible to do that.

sionals can win the suit, however, if the suit takes place in a court of competent jurisdiction all the way across the country, it may not be worthwhile for professionals to pursue damages in light of the expense of having to enforce their rights. They can always hire an attorney if the plaintiff is local, but it diminishes their costs of recovery due to the expense. In the skin care industry, the main types of contracts professionals might engage in are, but not limited to the following categories: EMPLOYEE/INDEPENDENT CONTRACTOR This contract may include the professional’s attorney, accountant, subcontracted colleague(s), and maintenance vendors. When professionals re-engage in these types of contracts, each party must state their position,

requests, demands, and details of the terms and conditions. Prior to finalizing the agreement, ensure that there is bilateral understanding and that each party has had the opportunity to discuss it with their trusted advisors. Try not to engage in a settlement unless it really fits all parties or else it will fall apart somewhere in the near future. CAPITAL EQUIPMENT This contract may include purchase agreements for all the professional’s capital equipment. Be certain to include the full restricted and unrestricted warranties (expressed and/or implied), shipping costs, training, collateral marketing materials and support, onsite or offsite maintenance, and whether or not the replaced parts are OEM (original equipment from the manufacturer) or generic.

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the business breakdown

Any time someone wants to enter into an agreement between two or more people, each item must be spelled out in writing with all parties in acceptance. If it is not in writing, it does not exist. The next time the contract is viewed is when there is a misunderstanding or misconception on the terms and conditions of the written agreement. Never allow for an agreement to be ambiguous as these are how disputes arise, since there is a lack of mutual understanding. In the beginning of the agreement, define the roles of each party and what the nature of each one of the businesses is. At this point, it can be stated that both parties mutually agree to the following terms, conditions, and covenants. Clearly list the names of the interested parties and corporations, defining the roles and obligations of each party. Laws vary from state to state, so skin care professionals should ensure that there is enforceability where they reside or work in the event of a lawsuit. Profes-

the business breakdown Skin care professionals should also determine if they are allowed to move the purchased or leased equipment without written consent and without voiding the manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s warranty. Professionals should determine upfront whether they are able to sell their equipment to a third party and if there is a recertification fee to the new buyer. The answer will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and needs to be negotiated prior to the engagement of the contract.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

Laws vary from state to state, so skin care professionals should

ensure that there is enforceability where

they reside or work in the event of a lawsuit.

the business breakdown

FINANCIAL This contract may include private lenders (angel investors or friends and family), bank or finance company loans or leases, landlord or tenant, mortgages, or basic loans for leasehold buildout. Professionals should determine if they are engaging in a lease or a loan. What are the interest rates? Is there a pre-payment penalty determined on the length of the loan or lease or can it be paid off at any time without a penalty? Many times, there is a sliding scale based on a percentage of the balance, contingent on the remaining life of the loan. Do not be fooled by offers of no payment for six months or $99 for the first six months, after which the standard lease or loan rate begins. The deferred interest is built into the rate and final balance. These type of finance agreements are good for professionals when they are short of cash and need the time to gain revenue until they have the available cash to start making the standard payments.

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GENERAL BUSINESS These contracts may include website creation and ongoing maintenance, marketing, social media and external vendor(s), consultants (business and risk management), equipment and supply companies for pricing guarantees for term commitments, credit card processing, and patient financing. Always question the length of the agreement and whether it automatically renews if the professional does not give written authorization within a prescribed period of time. Many agreements may self-renew and some have automatic price escalation clauses based on certain percentages of the existing agreement. Be sure to totally understand renewal maintenance agreements based on a percentage of the purchase price. Read the fine print to determine if the renewal is based on the percentage of the purchase price that may have been discounted or if it is based on the existing retail price at the time of the renewal of the maintenance agreement. PATIENT These types of contractual agreements are usually for patient procedures or treatment packages. It is extremely important to lay out all terms and conditions of the intended procedure(s), as well as include releases and consent forms describing all of the contraindications and adverse reactions. It is not uncommon for a patient to state that they were not aware that bruising, swelling, and extended downtime could exist, and they may come back stating that they would not have gone through with the procedure had they known these conditions may have existed. Professionals should ensure that they have a refund for cancellations, which includes the length of time required for a cancellation or rescheduling and whether or not the refund policy is an actual refund or credit for other services they offer. Prior to the engagement of any patient treatment, professionals should discuss their retreatment policy and state in writing if there are any additional fees for a retreatment or correc-

the business breakdown agreements to ensure that proprietary information is kept proprietary. When these are included, detail the penalties for violating the nondisclosure agreement. It is always difficult to place a monetary value on the breach of information; however, an amount should be specified. HIPPA has been in force for some time and is a mandated requirement in the medical industry. Professionals must have clients sign all of the HIPPA forms and keep them on file. Allow the client to have a copy of the spaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s policy and, if the spa has a website, ensure that the documents are prominently placed on the website.

tion. Professionals may feel as if they are entitled to their actual costs, while the client may feel otherwise. Do not leave this open for a dispute after the fact. Skin care professionals should clearly define their payment terms and options for litigation to acknowledge whether

the lawsuit is limited to mediation or a standard court procedure. HIPPA, CONFIDENTIALITY, AND NON-DISCLOSURE Always consider including mutual non-disclosure and confidentiality

BUSINESS ASSOCIATE AGREEMENTS These agreements are mandated by law and must be given to all vendors who come in contact with protected health information (PHI). Such people include any consultant, EMR, billing, laboratory, medical waste vendors, drug representatives, or any business associate who comes into the facility

the business breakdown

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

the business breakdown

and may have visible access to PHI. Business associate agreements are not just required for personal onsite viewing of PHI, but also includes visibility by electronic means. EXIT STRATEGY When drafting a contract, it is extremely important for professionals to know what their exit strategy, dispute resolution, and cancellation clauses are in the event of unsatisfactory performance by either party. Do not try to complicate things by writing in “fluff” that is just mere legalese. Keep agreements simple, starting with basic information. Contracts are hard enough to really understand with all of the mandated jargon and, to the layman, the words may sometimes seem to conflict with one another. Include basic financial information, including the full amount of the agreement and how the parties will be compensated. List how the compensation is broken down into payments terms, whether it is weekly, monthly, annually, or all at once. If there are additional fees, they must also be included to en-

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sure that both parties understand the financial obligations of one another. Professionals can always add addendums to the original agreement if their contract requires it. Many contracts are general or generic in nature, clearly defining the terms and conditions as mentioned above; however, a Schedule “A” or addendum may be used to define the actual capital equipment with the make, model, and serial number, if known. Be sure that this information is accurate prior to executing the agreement because it will be too late once the professional signs it; at that point, they will have to go back to dispute what they actually purchased and what was actually delivered. When negotiating any contract, do not be afraid to seek the advice of a third-party consultant who specializes in contract negotiations and is on the professional’s team. It is also important to understand the person’s needs and objectives and to ask questions and insist on answers. Skin care professionals should prepare and compare what they are negotiating and understand the au-

thority levels and limitations of the person with which they are negotiating. Furthermore, everything must be put in writing and professionals should never be afraid to walk away from the deal.

Jay A. Shorr, B.A., MBM-C, CAC I-VI, is the founder and managing partner of The Best Medical Business Solutions, assisting medical practices with the operational, financial, and administrative health of their business. He is also a professional motivational speaker, an advisor to the Certified Aesthetic Consultant Program, and a certified medical business manager from Florida Atlantic University. Mara Shorr, B.S., CAC II-VI, serves as the company’s vice president of marketing and business development. She is level II-VI certified aesthetic consultant, utilizing her knowledge and experience to help clients achieve their potential. She is also a national speaker and writer.

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game CHANGERS

Men’s Skin

n 2016, men’s skin care and hair products brought in more than $19 billion globally. As men become more conscious and knowledgeable about their skin, skin care manufacturers and professionals are offering more products and treatments that are tailored to men. The following are a few game changing ingredients that are beneficial for men’s skin:

Dermatude Soft Radiance Enzymatic Peeling by Dermatude gently removes dead skin cells and stimulates circulation. The active ingredient, bacillus subtilis, is an enzyme used to exfoliate the skin. This ingredient is a mild, but effective, alternative to alpha hydroxy fruit acids. Regular use of the product will improve men’s skin texture, resulting in smooth, supple, and radiant skin. 877-628-7201 or dermatudeusa.com

BACILLUS SUBTILIS Bacillus subtilis is a bacterium that is commonly found on the skin and in the digestive tract. It is also found on human extremities and in livestock and soil. Because of its universal presence, Bacillus subtilis has adaptive tactics for surviving in diverse environments through the creation, and secretion, of genetically encoded molecules that regulate the growth of nearby organisms. This bacterium produces subtilisin, a proteolytic enzyme, which acts as an exfoliant for the skin.

HYALURONIC ACID

NIACINAMIDE Niacinamide, which is also known as vitamin B3, helps to improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles, enlarged pores, and dullness. This ingredient is made from niacin, which is found in cells and tissue that are metabolically active. Because of its cell-renewing properties, niacinamide is often used as a skin-brightening agent. It is also thought to stimulate dermis cells to produce more collagen, giving the skin a youthful appearance.

game changers

Hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan found naturally in the body, attracts and holds large amounts of moisture. Because of its ability to penetrate the skin, hyaluronic acid aids in its moisturereplenishing efforts. For example, one gram of hyaluronic acid can hold as much as six liters of water. When used in skin care products, the ingredient provides anti-aging, hydrating, and antioxidant properties for the skin.

BiON BiON’s Oil Free Moisturizing Gel plumps and hydrates the skin without oils. It is gentle for sensitive skin and acts as a natural protective agent. This gel also utilizes hyaluronic acid, which is a highly effective moisturizer that holds 1,000 times its weight in moisture. Its amino acids enhance hydration and are vital in aiding the production of elastin and collagen. The gel also benefits the skin by reducing lines and wrinkles and increasing tone and elasticity. Men will love using this soothing gel after shaving! 877-715-2466 or bionresearch.com

DMK-Danné Montague-King Biogen C by DMK-Danné Montague-King is a “pick me up in a flash” cream designed for tired and stressed skin. A perfect choice for the busy man who is always on the run, Biogen C aims to stimulate, tone, and tighten dull, stressed skin. With the help of niacinamide, this product improves tissue oxygenation and strengthens weakened capillaries. It also helps to smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and prevent the signs of aging with UVA and UVB sun protection. 888-326-6348 or dannemking.com

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

More than waxing,

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Visit us at www.cirepil.com for more information and upcoming events Perron Rigot Inc. 800-947-2314

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Exhibitor SPOTLIGHT The Long Beach International Congress of Esthetics and Spa tradeshow is here! Stop by these booths to see the latest products from industry leaders.

1 2

ABI Dermaceuticals’ Hyaluronic Peptide Serum is designed for post-lasers, post-peels, sunburns, wound healing, scar reduction, and restoring elasticity and skin tone. Booths 535, 537. abiskincare.com Line Diminishing Serum With Collagen Ha & Snail Enzyme by Bella Schneider Beauty is fantastic to use with microneedling and dermaplaning facials, with LED and ultrasound machines. Booths 419, 420, 421. bellaschneiderbeauty.com

3 4

Booth 535

Booth 419

Booth 600

Booth 431

Booth 108

Booth 620

Enhance natural beauty with Certified 24kt Facial Gold Sheets by Bio France Lab. These certified gold leaves will slow down collagen depletion in the skin and breakdown the elastin. Booth 600. biofrancelab.com

5 6

Celluma’s Light Therapy is an award-winning product that tre ats acne, wrinkles, and pain. Stop by for a demonstration. Booths 108, 109, 110, 111. biophotas.com Dermatude’s Meta-Ject FX50 is a micro-exfoliating system comprised of a digital controller that allows users to regulate the speed of the polycarbonate modules, varying the degree of skin exfoliation and manipulation. Booth 620. dermatudeusa.com

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

Exhibitor SPOTLIGHT

BiON’s Pumpkin Enzyme Mask is an excellent exfoliant that helps to increase cell turnover, reverse the signs of aging, and add moisture. It contains pumpkin puree, ferment, seed extract, and dozens of beneficial nutrients. Booth 431. bionresearch.com

Exhibitor SPOTLIGHT

7 8

The Marine Flower Peptide Serum by Eminence Organic Skin Care delivers concentrated plant peptides and collagen-boosting botanicals to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Booths 203, 205, 302, 304. eminenceorganics.com

Caviar extract stimulates skin's natural functions in Biodroga’s Radiance & Anti-Age Sleeping Cream-Serum, distributed by Euro Pacific. A special signal peptide has a relaxing effect on the facial features, smoothing out existing expression lines. Booths 209, 211. europacificllc.com

Booth 203

Booth 209

Booth 428

Booth 601

Booth 540

Booth 324

9 10

LightStim’s LED Bed is a soothing, natural treatment, which promotes total body wellness and physiological function designed to rejuvenate, repair, and energize every cell in the body. Booth 428. lightstim.com

Exhibitor SPOTLIGHT

SAIAN’s remarkable Botanical Stem Cell Mask uses the latest stem cell technology to derive powerful actives from Acai Palm, Chinese Basil, and White Oak resource materials. These derivatives impart antioxidant, protectant, and antiaging benefits. Booth 601. saian.net

11 12

Great skin in 30 days! Skinade® is a daily skincare drink proven to help achieve younger, better and more radiant skin from within. Recommended by skincare professionals. Booth 540. skinade.com

Vivant’s Miami Bleach System is a safe, effective, in-office, intimate bleaching system that removes unwanted pigment and reveals a brighter, more consistent tone and texture in even the most delicate areas. Booths 324, 326. vivantskincare.com

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n to...

ductio An intro

Beauty G

lobally, women spend an average of about $144 yearly on beauty products; women in the west, on average, spend the most on beauty products, spending $154 yearly.

lmost half of American women feel that wearing makeup gives them control.

he largest part of the cosmetic industry, 36.4 percent, is represented by skin care products.

s of 2016, the revenue of the cosmetic industry was $62.46 billion.

2013 study revealed that British women keep makeup six years after its expiration date; on average, they keep eyeshadow for about seven years.

n 2016, the menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grooming market was $19.36 billion. By 2020, it is expected to grow to $23.98 billion.

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Beauty Happy Hour:

Creating a Successful

Makeup Bar

by Shawn Towne

or most makeup artists, the high point of their job is hearing the excitement and revelation clients experience when seeing how a professional makeup application could enhance their appearance. Almost nothing makes a professional makeup artist happier than hearing a client exclaim, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Wow! I never knew I could look like this!â&#x20AC;?

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S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

The most successful strategies to reach this moment have shifted in recent history. Twenty-five years ago, the goal of a makeup application was to create the perfect face at any cost, without regard for ingredients, sustainability, or client ease of use. As a result, packaging was bulky and glamorous, formulas were packed with talc and petroleum, and women would sit at the makeup counter for an hour receiving a makeover with someone they had never met, only to return half the products a week later after realizing they had no idea how to use them in their everyday lives. The initial “Wow!” moment was too often overshadowed by a frustrating hit-ormiss process. As the millennium approached, consumers became savvier and the makeup industry was forced to change. Clients needed something simpler, healthier, and more realistic. In October of 2012, The Wall Street Journal ran an article titled “Face Time at The Makeup Bar.” The piece focused on the growing trend of makeup bars popping up around the country and discussed 56

D E R M A S C O P E | S e p t e m b e r 2 017

how busy clients were trying this new alternative to the traditional makeup application experience. When this piece ran, the makeup bar concept was not truly new – a few smart professionals had been offering similar formats for years, but nobody until that moment had called it a makeup bar. This term articulated the easy, convenient solution the industry needed; just like that, makeup bars started popping up outside the department store counters, offering the next evolution in professional applications.

THE MODERN MAKEUP BAR The official definition of a makeup bar is a user-friendly beauty zone where makeup inspiration meets convenience; the customer can play with products while also receiving education, applications, and a shoppable experience. Simply stated, it is a dedicated space, often within a salon or spa, that offers quick makeup applications. Some locations allow consumers to do their own makeup using the products at the bar, while others have professionals there to guide the consumers through

Consumers who are attracted to the informality of makeup bars understand that learning does not have to be laborious.

If skin care and makeup professionals are interested in creating a makeup bar experience in their location, the challenge is attainable with a few key strategies. Above all, keep in mind that the term indicates a space of leisure and fun, not of high pressure. Consumers who are attracted to the informality of makeup bars understand that learning does not have to be laborious. Baby Boomers

through Millennials are all looking for a casual way to increase their makeup skills and buy the newest lipstick on the block.

CHOOSE THE SPACE

Make sure that the chosen space has plenty of natural light and good accessibility for all who wish to participate. Think of it less like the buffet at a restaurant and more like an elemen-

their applications. The common denominator of most makeup bars is that they all promote an idea of fun, casual, easy-to-create beauty. Makeup bars can be incredibly lucrative if operated correctly, but propping a fun-looking makeup tester unit in a spa or salon is not enough. A makeup bar must be properly executed and managed. If skin care and makeup professionals are looking to increase opportunities to generate income within their existing business, the following are three reasons why a makeup bar is a good idea: 1. Consumers will purchase makeup somewhere. If not at the spa, then somewhere else. 2. Industry research shows that salon and spa clients would rather purchase their beauty products from a professional they trust than from a retail salesperson at a general department store they do not know. 3. A beauty business cannot sustain growth on services alone. Once the professional’s book is full, their money will inevitably plateau. Professionals break through that plateau by supplementing services with retail.

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tary school art station. It needs to have enough room for multiple people to play simultaneously. It is important to have enough makeup to meet everyone’s needs, but also make sure there are enough disposable applicators, brushes, and hand sanitizer. Most importantly, make sure there is someone present who is available to draw clients into the space, prompt them to play, and teach them how to apply makeup.

Remember that today’s society is a time of e-commerce; the client experience has become an advantage for shopping experiences in brick and mortar locations. Therefore, it is important to make the makeup bar a fun, exciting atmosphere that clients will want to frequent. Have music playing, drinks and snacks available, and images for inspiration. Make clients feel loved and special. That is the commodity that they will return for time and time again.

CHOOSE THE BEST PRODUCTS

OPEN WITH A BANG

STOCK THE BAR

There are so many makeup brands and an endless variety of price points to choose from, so do adequate research to select the right line. Do not just choose the brand that offers the best markup or profit margin. Professionals should ask themselves if they would be willing to use the products on their own face. Think about today’s consumer and remember some elements that might make a difference to them, like highquality ingredients, long-lasting wear, sustainable and cruelty-free business practices, and high-performance shades for all skin tones.

HAVE A SYSTEM

Create a customer service protocol that will give a consistent experience for every customer who participates. Some locations start it with a glass of champagne or a hand massage, while others simply focus on asking those key questions that will help the professional to meet the client’s needs more efficiently.

REFLECT BEAUTY AND EASE

Do not just have hand mirrors lying around that people have to pick up. Have large, mounted, lighted mirrors that illuminate their faces beautifully so the makeup looks fabulous. Use LED lights so the area does not get too hot. Professionals can even play with ring lights designed for selfies so clients can snap their look before they leave! It is also beneficial to have a few magnifying mirrors on pedestals so people can look up close if they want to. 58

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MAKE IT FUN AND PERSONAL

Promote the makeup bar on social media, advertise with signs and flyers for at least a month before starting, and have a grand opening party to get consumers in the door. Give away door prizes and do some live applications on models or guests at the party. Also offer introductory gift certificates to go towards their first purchase.

CHOOSE THE RIGHT PRICE STRATEGY

Whether the professional works in a salon, spa, or medical practice, as an aesthetician, they have the

“

Is it time to send your skin to Rehab?

Some locations allow

consumers to do their own makeup using the products

ability and the right to charge for makeup applications. That said, many talented skin care professionals stifle their income opportunities in this way. In an effort to maximize their earnings, many will charge a fee for all of their makeup applications, leaving their customers less money to purchase product. It is understandable to charge for weddings or special occasions, but remember that more clients will be willing to sit in the chair and try products if they do not have to pay for the application. The more products they try, the more they will purchase. Most importantly, the products they purchase will need to be replenished, which creates steady income. Skin care professionals have the chance to build a lucrative business for themselves if they act strategically. Creating a makeup bar rather than just offering makeup as a sideline is a great way to achieve this goal. Nevertheless, professionals should not open up a makeup bar without an existing clientele unless they can afford to open it in a high traffic area. If the professional is operating independently, they should seek out an existing spa or medical practice that is interested in trying a makeup bar within their location. Many spa and medical practice managers do not have time to focus on a makeup business. What they might be looking for is someone who will take on the responsibility of creating and developing the makeup business for them.

TRENDS

The simple truth is that, no matter how great of a grip professionals think they have on the beauty industry, it will inevitably change right before their eyes. The next best thing is always just around the corner. Do not let that fact be a point of fear! Most of the newest trends are renditions of

Introducing

at the bar, while others

have professionals there

White Charcoal O2 Detox Masque

through their applications.

New clay-based masque infuses oxygen to the surface of the skin with a gradual foaming, bubbling sensation to create a micro massage that cleanses the skin of impurities and toxins.

to guide the consumers

The common denominator of most makeup bars is that

”

they all promote an idea of fun, casual, easy-to-create beauty.

old ones; most of the techniques that are emerging are easy to learn and almost all of them can translate to fiscal growth for the professional and their business. Skin care professionals should keep their mind and eyes open for new information, welcome new trends, and never be afraid to try them. Above all, they should remember that their relationships with clients is what will keep their business alive and growing. Professionals have a tremendous opportunity to touch and empower people’s lives through showing them how beautiful they are. See you at the bar!

Shawn Towne is a global educator for jane iredale with decades of versatile makeup artistry experience. A recognized expert in the beauty industry, Towne's portfolio includes editorial work in fashion and beauty publications around the world and runway artistry for New York Fashion Week shows by Badgley Mischka, Tracy Reese, and Oscar De La Renta. Through his career with jane iredale, Towne works to educate and inspire professionals across the globe while collaborating on product launches and creative projects for the brand. His commentary has been featured in top publications including Allure, Marie Claire, and many spa and makeup trade magazines.

Join others and Get Fizzy With It!

#GetFizzyWithIt

For more info please visit

cbiskincare.com or call

800.822.7546.

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

Top 6 Tricks p u e k a M r e t s to Ma by Michelle Richardson

here are so many facets to becoming a freelance makeup artist, including different techniques and ongoing updates. The whole experience can become overwhelming because most people would like to gain the needed knowledge immediately, without realizing it is a process. First and foremost, skin care professionals must love makeup or be willing to learn how to apply it.

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This article is broken down into six segments for mastering makeup artistry. These segments are not trends, but rather tricks of the trade that will stand the test of time. They are the most important areas to get professionals started on their way to becoming a professional makeup artist or, for seasoned makeup artists, re-inventing some of their techniques.

#1 THE PERFECT SMOKY EYE

There is no sign that the smoky eye trend is dying anytime soon. The key is perfect blending and the right color selection. Professionals also want to be sure that the colors they use are blended together flawlessly; it is important to pair light base colors with rich, dark colors. Some nice combinations include champagne base with bright blue on top, delicate gold base with deep purple on top, peach base with deep green on top, and soft pink base with warm golden brown on top. Professionals can, of course, create their own color combinations. Professionals have many choices, so they should feel free and unafraid to experiment with a variety of hues. Deeper colors in a matte shade will work best to draw attention to the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eyes. Like any other makeup application, practice makes perfect and consists of trial and error. During the execution, professionals should keep their application neat and clean. Start with the eye makeup application first, followed by the remainder of the application. In this order, professionals can

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“

Some nice combinations include

champagne base with bright blue on top, delicate gold base with deep purple on

”

top, peach base with deep green on top, and soft pink base with warm golden brown on top.

feel free to create without worrying about drizzles and spills on the foundation or concealer. Wink away any unwanted spills with a powder brush that contains a small amount of powder. If any residue is remaining, use a makeup wipe to remove it. Smoky Eye Step-by-Step This segment will give professionals step-by-step instructions on how to give clients the perfect smoky eye and avoid the raccoon look! The average time frame to create a smoky eye look is about 10 minutes. Professionals should use this protocol as a basic guide, be creative with color, and experiment by modifying the following suggestions.

1. 2.

Start with a greaseless, oil-free eyeshadow base to keep the eyeshadow from melting into the eyelid crease. Apply the base and lightly powder the eye after the base has dried. Apply eyeliner in the typical black, brown, or gray shade. Apply the eyeliner above the upper eyelash lid, drawing the line thicker in the middle of the eyelid. Feel free to add a creative edge by using jewel-toned shades, such as violet, blue, or hunter green. The best eyeliner applicator is be a pencil as it is easier to smudge, creating more of a smoky look. Blend the eye pencil on the bottom eyelashes. This application helps to balance the entire eye makeup – clients do not want to end up with a top-heavy smoky eye. Use either a finger or a small sponge tip eye shadow brush. Apply a bit of the dark color choice on top of the pencil shade of choice. This shadow does not have to match the pencil shade. Remember, to be a true makeup artist, possessing creativity is important. Simply copying a YouTube video or step-by-step photographs will not make professionals their own unique artist. Experiment and add a signature touch. Apply the light base eyeshadow color by sweeping either a matte or light-frosted shade of the lighter eyeshadow color over the eyelids up to the eyebrows. The key to a perfect smoky eye is the pairing of the light and dark hues. Blend the darker shade below the crease. This step will give clients the icing on the cake – the key to the smoky look. During this step, professionals can use a Chi-

4. 5. 6.

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nese medium eyeshadow brush for better control. Better control means that the color applied does not drizzle as much. It is best not touse an open, fluffy eyeshadow brush that would allow spills to happen. Better control means an easier and neater application over both the eyelids and eyelash lines. Continue blending the eyeshadow with a tapered fluff brush until the liner disappears. The key to this step is to blend, blend, and blend again to create that seamless look. Stop and double check to be sure the eyes match. Correct them if necessary and move on to the next step. Finish with copious amounts of mascara. Be sure the eyelashes are well-curled and apply several coats of mascara, letting each coat dry for a few minutes prior to applying the next coat. Black or black-brown mascara works best. Keep the focus on the eyes only, avoiding these heavy combinations: heavy eyes and lips or heavy eyes and cheeks. Professionals should certainly not have all three zones heavy! They should, however, feel free to add a pop of color on the center eyelid. Remember to keep it fun and interesting and create a unique style and personality!

7. 8.

#2 CONTOURING AND HIGHLIGHTING

Contouring literally means to outline a figure or body – to mold or shape. In the makeup world, it means to create shadows. These shadows help to define certain areas, enhance shapes, and, along with highlighters, allow a more sculpted look. Contour the areas that clients wish to downplay or push back. Soft, dark matte shades work best for contouring. Highlighting, or the lighter shade, adds light to the face. There are several ways for professionals to add this illusion. A quick and easy way to create a larger appearance or grab attention is to add highlighter to the center regions of the face or any other area. Highlighting does

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not have to occur with a white or cream color. Professionals can also use pink, soft golds, or champagne hues. They can also elect to use a tinted moisturizer to achieve a soft, sheen glow. Contour and Highlight Step-by-Step The following steps will help professionals create sculpted, model-like facial features. The key to contouring and highlighting is to not make it obvious. The most flattering contouring and highlighting accentuates the bone structure, not the makeup. Start with foundation dots, using a liquid foundation. Place the lighter tone, which should be one shade lighter than the client’s skin tone, in the center of the face. Add another set of dots that are a shade darker than the client's complexion.

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Blend the two shades to create a subtle illusion of depth and dimension. Use a medium-size blending brush with both natural and synthetic bristles. Contour with the darker shade under the cheekbone and temples, along the hairline and jawline, and on both sides and the tip of the nose. Highlight with the lighter shade on top of the cheekbones, the center of the forehead, the bridge of the nose, the center of the chin, and on the Cupid's bow. Blend out the two shades to perfection by lightly patting or stippling over the dark and light hues with a matching skin tone foundation. Be sure the color is the shade inbetween the light and the dark shade for a more natural look. Keep a light touch on all the above steps, for soft day look and use a little more emphasis for an evening look. When creating more of a glam look, add a touch of light and dark powder on top. Pressed powders are the best for this step. Deep eyeshadows, blushes, or bronzes are usually more intense; if the professional is not careful to blend and select the correct shade, the whole look could be ruined.

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#3 FULLER LIPS

Many women wish to have lips that look bigger and sexier like Angelina Jolie or Kylie Jenner. If a client wants to add sensuality to the look, create the illusion of a fuller lip. Any effort, however, should look natural and effortless. It would be better to leave the lips small rather than having a fake, overdrawn appearance.

Trick Number One Prepare the lips using a cinnamon scrub; it is an easy method to achieving that perfect pout. Start with bare lips that are free of any conditioners or colors. Make a paste by mixing one teaspoon of granulated sugar, one teaspoon of ground cinnamon, and one teaspoon of coconut oil. Gently rub the lips with the scrub to remove any dry, chapped skin. Let the scrub sit on the lips for up to two minutes before removing it with warm water. The cinnamon mixture will create a warm, tingling sensation that increases the blood flow to the lips, giving them a temporary fuller look.

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Trick Number Two Using a lip gloss or one of the classic lip-plumping products will reflect light and create the illusion of fullness.

new. A new color added to the client’s makeup keeps them current and trendy. The most important color selections are for the lips and eyes.

Trick Number Three A popular look is to simply use a lip liner. The first step is to blend a concealer matching the client’s skin tone onto their lips. Select a lip liner pencil that matches the lips’ natural tone and fill in the rest of the lip with the same lip pencil shade. Finish by filling in the clients’ new “lips” with a lipstick that matches.

Lip Colors To figure out the best shade for the client, remove all lip colors to see the natural lip coloring. The perfect shades are beige-pink, pink, pink-brown, nude, chocolate, and blackberry. The matching lip color will be the one that looks the best. Remember, these are basic rules that should be used only as a guideline; feel free to spice it up. Professionals will know if they have the perfect color because it will enhance the skin tone: the eyes will be brighter and the whole face will light up. If the natural color of the client’s lips is pale, the lipstick shades should be beige, pale-pink, bright red, or light coral. If their lip color is medium, the lipstick shades should be pink, rose, brown, or warm red. If the client’s natural lip color is dark, the lipstick shades should be deep red, plum, warm red, or deep chocolate. If their natural lip color is two-toned, their lipstick shades should be chocolate, blackberry, deep raisin, or deep red. Professionals can also play up the lips based on the client’s hair color. If their hair is blond, pick colors in the pink family. If the client’s hair is brunette, choose shades that are winecolored. If their hair is red, they should choose shades that are in the apricot family.

Trick Number Four Select a light, nude makeup pencil or concealer pencil; a nude/blush lip pencil that is just a bit darker than the client’s natural lip color; and a sheer lipstick or nude-colored gloss. Apply the nude makeup pencil to the center of the lips and keep the color between the Cupid's bow. Be sure to extend the nude pencil to the edge of the Cupid's bow, as well as the lowest part of the bottom lip. Be careful not to draw outside of the actual lip line. This makeup trick, like most others, is designed to create an illusion that is not seen or figured out at a glance. Take the darker pencil and fill in the lips at the outer corners, blending inward just slightly. Use fingers or a small concealer brush to eliminate any harsh lines that may have been created. Finish this look off by applying a very sheer lipstick or a nude lip gloss. The more sheer the lipstick, the better as it will have the hues of the light versus dark coming through.

#4 SELECTING THE RIGHT MAKEUP COLORS Whether the client wears a little makeup or a lot, it is still fun to experiment with colors, so as not to fall into a time trap or wearing the same colors year after year. Focus on colors that work with the client’s hair, eyes, and skin tone and their unique personality. There is no denying that makeup should be fun and uplifting. The professional’s duty as a makeup artist is to give practical advice on color, but, at the same time, do not sacrifice the fun of using something 66

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Eye Colors If the eyes are the window of the soul, eyeshadow is its curtain. The color professionals choose for their clients will convey the clients’ final look and personality. Most women can wear most neutral shades; more intense colors can work with caution. In other words, blue eyeshadow is always an option, regardless of the skin’s tone or eye color. For some, navy blue or gray blue may be a more appropriate option than electric blue. Professionals can arrange their palettes accordingly to make it easier and faster on their time. Professionals can

purchase the eyeshadows separate in pan form; they can use magnetic palettes and arrange them according to eye color. They should also have a nice balance between light and dark hues and a balance between frost and matte colors. For clients with brown eyes, professionals can use eyeshadow shades that are purple, gray, gold, pink, deep blues, greens, brown, peach, taupe, champagne, and smoky colors. These colors should be paired with black or gray eyeliners and black or brown mascara. For clients with blue eyes, professionals should use copper, peach, coral, bronze, rust, pale pink, violet, purple, teal, browns, and deep blue eyeshadow colors. These colors should be paired with brown and navy eyeliners and mascara. For clients with green eyes, professionals should use brown, lavender, purple, apricot, mocha, medium pinks, taupe chocolate brown, mauve, gold, copper, blue, or silver eyeshadow colors. These colors should be paired with brown or burgundy eyeliners and mascaras.

#5 MAKEUP FOR AN OLDER LOOK

The better condition the skin is in, the less makeup professionals will need to apply. Skin needs hydration and exfoliation to be able to get away with little more than mascara, lip balm, and concealer. Moisturizer helps the makeup go on smoother. Flakey skin is not pretty, especially with foundation on top. Suggest to clients that they use a good exfoliant and moisturizer. Suggest the items that are necessary for proper skin care,

“

If the eyes are the window of the

”

soul, eyeshadow is its curtain. The color

professionals choose for their clients will

convey the clients’ final look and personality.

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especially sun care suggestions. Let clients know how important it is to wear sunglasses and sunscreen to prevent wrinkles. Primer The secret to any flawless makeup lies in using a makeup primer. Applying a layer of primer between the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin and makeup will help improve the overall final result. The

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makeup will glide on flawlessly and, most importantly, stay put. Professionals can layer a primer between the moisturizer and the foundation for extra benefits. Foundation Many mature women wear the same foundation they have used for 10 or more years. Because time changes, so

should the foundation and the client’s makeup in general. Women need a new foundation as the skin adjusts to the skin changes through menopause. Foundation should also be adjusted seasonally as the skin adjusts to changing weather patterns. The perfect foundation will even out skin tones while disguising fine lines. As the skin ages, the pores tend to get bigger and the skin drier, so it would be a good idea to switch from a heavy foundation to one that is lighter and more moisturizing. Be sure to use a foundation that will blend seamlessly into the skin. Apply a test by swiping along the jawline – it should disappear. Lips

As women get older, their lips seem to get thinner. To plump them up, lip gloss and/or a slightly brighter color will create the illusion for fuller lips. Add a little color by filling in the lips with a soft-shade lip pencil that is two shades darker than the natural lip color. Draw slightly outside the natural lip line and add a dab of lip gloss on top. Unless the client has dark skin and lips that are too full, stay away from super dark lipsticks, which can definitely age the face. Eyeliner Use eye pencils instead of liquid or cream eyeliners, which can be very harsh on aging eyes. Be sure not to just draw a line, but to follow through by smudging out the line with a small synthetic brush. Do not line the inside of the eye if the client has small eyes – they will appear even smaller.

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sionals should keep the eyes soft, yet complimentary to the client's own unique eyes. This look will draw the eyes away from any fine lines or loose skin. Eyelashes The best way to open up the eyes and make them pop is to curl the eyelashes. After curling the eyelashes, apply a couple coats of mascara to intensify and open the eyes more. If the client’s eyelashes are not as thick and lush, another option is to offer eyelash extensions at the spa. This service will give professionals an added advantage over their competitors and more revenue. Highlighters Highlighters will add a subtle glow to the face, creating the illusion of youth. Keep it subtle as to not have the appearance of aluminum foil. Blush Add a pop of blush to the apples of the cheeks. It is important to use blush correctly or not at all. Blush used correctly can brighten a dull complexion, but, yet again, the trick is to blend well and not use shades that are too bright or obvious. Blending Any makeup that a professional applies needs to be blended well. The secret to a great makeup application is to

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have clients look as if they are not wearing makeup at all. Less is more, especially when working on a mature face. Makeup should always enhance positive features while playing down negative ones, yet stay in the background at the same time. No lines, color bleeding, or intense colors that take over the face. Dark Circles A big problem with older women tends to be the shadows that are present under the eyes. These shadows tend to get worse as women age. The best way to cover these is to suggest a good eye cream and a color corrector in either a pink, peach, or other warm tones to cover the dark circles. Over this application, apply a yellow-based concealer and foundation. Do not forget to gently blend with a tapping motion for a soft finish.

#6 MAKEUP FOR A YOUNGER LOOK

Avoid Clumpy Mascara Be sure to apply mascara in several light layers instead of one thick layer. Coat the eyelashes, wait a few moments, and then apply another coat. If professionals build up the layers this way, clients will end up with natural-looking, thick, long eyelashes. Avoid Too Much Shimmer Shimmer is fun and beautiful in small doses and dangerous if professionals add too much. Skin care

professionals should be sure that they are not using all shimmery, frosted products. A kit full of shimmer is not good for a more youthful, understated look. The key is to pick one feature to highlight, like the lips or the eyes. Use matte products everywhere else. When in doubt, choose matte. Match the Foundation Be sure to correctly match the foundation to the neck to test the color. This process should be done in natural light to ensure it matches. Professionals should avoid creating the mask look. Apply foundation with a damp sponge. The sponge absorbs some of the foundation and the water thins out the rest for optimal sheer coverage. Professionals should also use a yellow-based foundation. The warmer the skin tone, the younger it looks. Michelle Richardson is a licensed aesthetician and professional makeup artist with over 25 years of experience. She has worked for numerous retail cosmetic lines, including EstĂŠe Lauder, LancĂ´me, and Christian Dior. Richardson is the co-owner of the California Makeup Academy - Training Center for professional makeup artists and the co-owner of Your Makeup Line, a private label branding company.

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A Teen Makeup p e t S y b p e t S by Amanda Azar

n recent years, millennial makeup application techniques trend towards heavier coverage and more dramatic finishes. However, when consulting with a teenage client for a makeup application, it is important to stay true to their age, lifestyle, and parental discretion. The key to any teenage makeup application, whether the client is 13 or 19, is to focus on healthy, glowing skin and a simplified approach to enhancing all of the facial features. The makeup should not overshadow their youth; it should promote self-confidence.

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neck. For oily and acne-prone skin, use foundation formulas that contain titanium dioxide or zinc oxide which help absorb oil and provide antiinflammatory benefits. Apply concealer, strategically. Aside from the under-eye area, concealer (or even a stick foundation formula) can be used to cover blemishes, imperfections, and hyperpigmentation. Choose a flesh-toned shade as close to the base color as possible. If the concealer is too light, it will enhance the imperfection in a negative way. Dab the product on the desired area and gently blend it out using the fingers or stipple with a synthetic-fiber brush. Apply powder to entire face, if needed. Use a lightweight powder to set any liquid or cream products using a large, fluffy brush and sweeping motions. To set specific areas without over-blending the product, stipple the powder and wipe off any excess. Groom the eyebrows. Run a clean mascara spoolie through the eyebrows in the direction of the hair growth. If needed, lightly fill-in the eye brows with an eyebrow pencil, powder, or tinted eyebrow gel. Be careful that they are not too defined or structured. Apply neutral-color eyeshadow from eyelash line to crease using a fluffy eyeshadow brush. Blend out the crease to avoid any harsh lines and apply a

Sebaceous production is a prominent concern with teenagers due to hyperactive hormones, sports, and other activities. Therefore, it is common to see teenage clients with acne, blemishes, and other oil-related skin conditions. An opportune time to discuss proper skin care hygiene with a teenage client is during the makeup application, since the professional has their undivided attention. Always remind these clients to cleanse their face daily with clean hands, never share their makeup with anyone, and to replace their products on a regular basis. Typically speaking, a teenage makeup application should not take any longer than 10 minutes from start to finish. For special occasions, such as homecoming, prom, and graduation, 20 minutes may be more adequate so that the professional can add a few additional details to amplify the eyes or other choice features.

STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE

Cleanse the face using upward and outward strokes. Makeup remover wipes work great for on-the-fly cleansing. Moisturize the skin thoro ughly and apply sunscreen during daytime applications. Apply the primer with fingers, a sponge, or a synthetic-fiber brush. For dry skin, use products that contain glycerin for more intense hydration. For combination or oily skin, use an oil-free formula or look for

2. 3.

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ingredients like rice protein. Primer can be applied after the moisturizer has absorbed into the skin, if desired. This process can help even out skin tone and ensure the product’s longevity. Apply a nickel-sized amount of foundation to the face and blend out using a buffing circular motion with a dual-fiber brush. When it comes to foundation, less is more. For teenage clients, a tinted moisturizer, BB cream, or lightweight liquid mineral foundation is more appropriate than a full-coverage foundation. The foundation should be sheer and natural, matching the color of the

transition color, if desired. The intensity should be minimal to offer a colorwashed effect. If suitable, use a light, shimmery shade under the eyebrow bone and in the inner tear duct area. Apply pencil eyeliner (optional). Use a kohl pencil or darker eyeshadow along the upper eyelash line, smudging with a pencil brush to avoid harsh lines. Avoid tight-lining and applying eyeliner in the waterline; this practice makes the eyes appear small and closed. Use an eyelash curler at the base of the upper eyelashes to enhance the curl and create a youthful lift. Apply two coats of black mascara with zig-zag motions to separate and lengthen the eyelashes. Apply the mascara to the bottom eyelashes first, then have the client look down to apply to the upper eyelashes. This application procedure will keep the mascara from transferring. For special occasions, false eyelashes can be applied for additional drama. Individual clusters create a more natural look, but strip eyelashes are also a great option, depending on the style. Sweep blush on the apples of the cheeks using a fluffy powder or blush brush. Choose a fresh, natural hue to compliment the client’s skin undertone (soft pink or peach). Have the client smile to identify the apples of the cheeks and distribute the product. Gently blend the blush color along the cheekbone and upward toward the

10.

11.

temple. If the client asks for a more sun-kissed look, bronzer can be used in place of, or in addition to, blush. Be careful not to cover the entire face with bronzer and only apply it moderately to where the sun would naturally hit the face. Do not contour heavily. Finish the look with lip gloss. Gloss has sheer coverage with a kiss of color, making it a more flattering choice for teenagers versus heavier lipstick. Dab the gloss in the center of the lips and have the client pout their lips together; the product will naturally spread to the edges of the lips without bleeding over the edge and prevent it from looking excessive.

12.

Amanda Azar is a published makeup artist, medical aesthetician, and licensed body wrapper in South Florida. Founder and Executive Artist of Azar Beauty, Azar is also a makeup artistry instructor at Florida College of Natural Health and lead makeup artist at St. Andrews Country Club. Azar has a Bachelor’s degree in Business Management from Florida Atlantic University, Fashion Makeup Artistry diploma from Cosmix School of Makeup Artistry, and dual licenses from a 1,200-hour paramedical aesthetician program at Southeastern College. She is a member of the National Association of Professional Businesswomen and National Aesthetic Spa Network, Look Good Feel Better ®, and a RAW Artist showcase alumni.

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

Tools of the trade Trendsetters give insight on the tools they recommend for beauty. Dazzle Dry President

Vivian B. Valenty, Ph.D.

Colorescience President and CEO

Mary Fisher

“I can’t begin my day or leave my house without our Natural Pressed Powder Foundation SPF 20. This is a powder foundation that doesn’t look dusty or cakey, yet offers buildable coverage and shine control. And of course, the addition of mineral SPF ingredients, titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide, add another layer of sun protection to my makeup routine. Plus, the sleek compact means that I can take it with me for foundation touchups throughout the day.” colorescience.com

“Dazzle Dry is an independent beauty brand balancing dedication to superior performance with commitment to wellness. Our products are created in small batches, ensuring exceptional purity and zero animal byproducts or testing. Dazzle Dry’s polishes deliver the high shine and durable wear expected from a gel or hybrid without the use of harsh chemicals or ultraviolet lighting. With a five-minute dry time and an easy, no-soak removal, it’s truly the only long-lasting, non-toxic nail lacquer system out there.” dazzledry.com

Grande Cosmetics CEO

Alicia Grande

tools of the trade

“It is never too late to experience the full extent of your natural beauty. Achieve longer and thicker looking eyelashes with GrandeLASH-MD. I incorporate this product into my nightly routine by keeping it by my toothbrush and applying it before bed! You will see results in as little as four weeks and full results in three months.” grandecosmetics.com

MediNiche, Inc. Vice President, Eyecare

Kathryn A. Reynolds, O. D. “LASH ADVANCE® is a great eyelash health product to recommend to clients that wish to try a nondrug, reasonably priced alternative to expensive prescription products. The gentle, non-irritating, non-allergenic, clear, topical gel formula contains natural ingredients that help stimulate eyelash and eyebrow growth at the cellular level, enhance follicle penetration of actives, and improve the overall health of eyelash and eyebrow follicles. With regular use, LASH ADVANCE protects eyelashes and eyebrows from damage and helps reduce eyelash and eyebrow loss. My eyelashes are thicker and have never looked so good!” mediniche.com/lashadvanceoffer.html

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tools of the trade NuAcquaDerm by Beauty Tech Inc. Brand Manager

Marina Sinitsina

Progressive-Esthetics CEO

Andrea Oismueller

The Lashe Inc. President and Co-Founder

Nicole Flevaris

tools of the trade

“I absolutely love Dermaviduals® customized mineral foundation. It is the first foundation that I have ever been able to use because of my large pores and oily skin. It’s made with high quality substances (jojoba oil, squalene, castor oil, pigments), with no emulsifiers, preservatives, silicones, parabens, fragrances, minerals oils, or amines. This easy spreading foundation supports the regeneration of the skin without leaving an oily shine. One light application is great for a natural look while a second will give you full coverage. This product goes beyond just skin care.” progressive-esthetics.com

“I love NuAcquaDerm because it's the only filter-free and waterproof microdermabrasion at-home patented device of both the face and the body! The NuAcquaDerm is a hand-held, spa-like beauty treatment that sweeps away dead skin cells leaving behind smoother, healthier looking skin, and a more luminous complexion. I also love this tool because it comes with four interchangeable heads – it's such an amazing value! Get beautiful skin from head to toe easily with NuAcquaDerm!” nuacquaderm.com

“I prefer to use our Rapid Dry Adhesive as it is suitable for more than 95 percent of clients, dries quickly, and maintains flexibility. Because The Lashe® adhesives are medical grade, they hardly generate any fumes and produce a very strong bond. The Rapid Dry adhesive concentrated formula will increase speed and efficiency during eyelash application. You will be able to apply more eyelashes per minute that hold without having to separate extensions at the end of the appointment. The extensions will feel soft and light with maximum hold.” thelashe.com

Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals Founder and CEO

Rhonda Allison

“For the upcoming holiday season, I love the new RA IllumiColour LIPS duo of Blossom and Poppy. They give a beautiful pop of color and lustrous shine to the lips while providing strengthening support to this delicate area. With natural sweet almond and avocado oil, IllumiColour LIPS delivers hydrating, antioxidant and pro-collagen support, ideal for the dry winter months. It’s the perfect lip care with beautiful, natural color.” rhondaallison.com

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How to Sell Without Being Pushy by Bella Schneider, P.M.E.

ales are never easy. Torn between the desire to please clients and make money, skin care professionals often appear needy or too aggressive if they do not practice a well thought out selling strategy. How can professionals do that? It is all about striking the right balance between making their point and ensuring that prospective clients feel they are being served, not being sold. Focus on responding to target a clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individual need by being informative, paying attention, and taking it slow. Professionals should switch their focus from closing a sale to fulfilling a clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s need. This change in mindset will make the process more relaxed and pleasant for both the professional and the client.

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NO PRESSURE

First off, it is important to remember that a pleasant experience always begins with the skin care professional. If professionals are relaxed, happy, and smiling, the client will enjoy their presence. If they are pushy, profit-focused, and blatantly trying to get something out of the client, clients will feel it. Focus on relationship building with clients by being courteous and helpful. Skin care professionals should carry themselves with pride by knowing their value and the niche market that they fulfill. They should allow themselves to have fun and even have a sense of humor on the “sales floor.”

SLOW AND STEADY

Give clients time to acclimate to the environment. Do not rush them. Take a moment before approaching them. Do not talk about the products and services right away. Rather, say hello, ask them how they are doing, and then ask them if there is something specific they need help with. Watch the client’s body language and match their energy. If a client is shy and quiet, do not overwhelm them with too much conversation. Notice their tone of voice. If they speak quietly, do not begin talking loudly. Do they startle when they are approached or do they look happy to have the help? Clients will go through different emotional stages during the purchasing process. It is up to the professional to be in-tune with their process, match

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it, and react to it gently and with prowess. They may go from removed to enthusiastic to hesitant at the end of the sale. When they are in that moment where they worry about spending money, gently encourage them by reminding them of the benefits that will specifically address the issue they want solved. Reiterate how they can buy the product. It is important to balance providing client information with

“

Talk to clients about benefits as opposed to features. Features are the physical properties of products and services, such as the ingredients or service steps. Benefits are actual outcomes that clients will receive from using the product or service.

”

H2 Rapid Diffusion Therapy Cream

giving them space to think. Professionals must realize that sales are not a quick process; focus on building long-term relationships with clients instead.

HONESTY IS THE BEST POLICY

Always be honest with clients. Do not tell a client that they should use a product that is not good for their skin. If they ask about a product that is not good for their skin or want to choose a facial that is inappropriate to their skin type, it is the professional’s job to be honest about the mismatch. Also, the professional should be truthful about the benefits of the services and products being offered. Do not oversell to where it becomes unbelievable.

QUALITY OVER QUANTITY

Use products that work, have beautiful packaging, smell pleasant, and are priced appropriately. Ensure that the products and services offered in the spa are catered to the target market. Professionals cannot cater to everyone, so it is important to have offerings that respond to the needs and wants of the spa’s demographic. It will be easier for the professional to sell products and services wholeheartedly if they create and choose them with the spa’s market in mind. If the professional is not choosing the products and services, they should find ones that they would and use and sell those. They should also know the benefits of the other services and products they offer, in case they come across clients with different needs who require a different regimen. Professionals should have their target market defined and their own niche clear so that they know what unique benefits they offer to their clients. If they know who their market is and what they have to offer them, it will be easier to communicate this to their clients.

DO YOUR HOMEWORK

Clients are seeking knowledge from the skin care professional. Therefore, the professional should be enthusiastic about their products and services and be prepared to answer questions about them. There is nothing worse than an uneducated sales person. When professionals are

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well-trained and knowledgeable, they naturally recommend products and it comes across as genuine. In fact, if professionals are very knowledgeable about their products and services, selling is quite natural. They will just share their knowledge and create customized solutions that create results. This will not only have clients coming back, but also referring their friends. Talk to clients about benefits as opposed to features. Features are the physical properties of products and services, such as the ingredients or service steps. Benefits are actual outcomes that clients will receive from using the product or service. An example is, â&#x20AC;&#x153;your skin will be softer and brighter.â&#x20AC;? Explain to clients how the features benefit them specifically and address their individual concerns and problems. Teach clients that to have longlasting results, they need to take advantage of both in-spa services and homecare regimens.

OFFER AN EXPERIENCE

People like to test products before purchasing them. Let clients smell and feel a product, offer to show them before and after pictures, and share testimonies from actual product users. Help clients enjoy the spa and their interactions at the spa with a fun demeanor and interesting facts or discussion. Do not be aggressive. Use the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name and get to know them without being intrusive. Give clients a genuine compliment to create intimacy.

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BE THE CLIENTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PRIVATE INVESTIGATOR

What problems do clients need solved? Are they happy with their skin? Asking good open-ended questions will help professionals answer these questions. They may not even know they have a problem until the professional starts speaking to them about their routine. The professional should make their intention to help and inform the client rather than trying to sell to them. Pick up on client cues, including body language and questions. Professionals should see themselves as a detective trying to get to the root of the problem and then offer solutions to their problems. Professionals can build trust by listening more than they talk. Find out if clients are happy with the products and services they currently use. Stand behind the products at the spa. Let clients know that if they are not satisfied, they can return the product.

BUILD OFF THE CLIENTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CURRENT REGIMEN

Clients appreciate when a sales associate tries to work with them and add value to their existing routine without talking them out of everything they are currently using. By doing so, professionals can learn about their preferences and find out what is currently working or not working for them. It will also be easier and more credible to begin with services and products that complement their existing routine or switching out individual products or services that have no benefits.

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THE ART OF FOLLOW-UP

Make clients feel like they are receiving more from the spa then they are expending at the spa. Follow up after the sale with a call, thank you card, and/or e-mail. Ask if they have additional questions and find out how the regimen is working for them or if they enjoyed their service. The follow-up is an opportunity to find out if they have additional needs or if any changes need to be made in their existing regimen. If they are happy with their services and products, they may also ask about additional services and products. If so, that time is a great time to make even more recommendations and provide additional support.

GET TECHY WITH SALES TACTICS

In the age of technology, professionals should maximize clients’ exposure to their products by using all the means of communication available. Social media, blog posts, and e-mail newsletters informing clients about the beneficial products and services the professional offers in a unique way is critical to a successful skin care business. The professionals should attend tradeshows, feature products at local events, send samples to known beauty bloggers, or throw product parties in the spa to keep the informational dialogue open between themselves and their clients about the spa’s offerings. Incentivize clients with special offers on new products or services on the spa’s Facebook page or the customized e-mail list with

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informative copy and detailed pictures. Include before and after shots, research data or specifics about the spaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s offerings. Professionals should see their sales efforts as an-ongoing relationship with the intention of supporting all their clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; beauty needs.

HAVE A STORY

With such heavy competition in the marketplace today, professionals must have their own story. What is the professional selling, why are they selling it, and who are they selling it to? How are their products and services better than the place down the road? Why are their offerings worth spending money on? Do they have research or case studies? When the professional, as a sales person, is convinced that product and service recommendations will improve the condition the client is dealing with, the professional will easily be able to convince clients of the same thing. At the end of the day, that is the art of selling without being pushy! Bella Schneider, P.M.E., leads a team of more than 200 aesthetic professionals at three premier spas. For more than 35 years, Schneider has traveled the world to bring service providers the best in aesthetic science; as a groundbreaking formulator, successful retailer, and respected educator, her mission is to help professionals enhance their practice and grow their business. Winner of the Nouvelles Esthetiques lifetime achievement Crystal Award for contributions to beauty science, Schneider hosts beginningto-advanced training in clinical and spa skin care as well as ethnic skin care, peels, and other new techniques at Bella Schneider Beautyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Palo Alto, Calif.-based training center.

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“

Celluma light therapy offers the precision and efficacy that our guests at the Four Seasons Spa Wailea have come to expect... With integrated blue, red and infrared light therapy, we are able to confidently treat skin concerns like acne, rosacea, sun damage, loss of elasticity in the skin as well as post injection/contouring bruising. The blue light kills bacteria, while the red light stimulates the fibroblast that strengthen and tone the skin. The infra-red light penetrates deeper addressing bruising, inflammation and pain in joints and muscles. Both our aestheticians and massage therapists are thrilled to implement Celluma light therapy because they are confident that our guest will feel and see the difference.

”

– Pat Makozak - Four Seasons Senior Spa Director for the Americas See Celluma at the following Shows: ICES Long Beach Booth #108, Sept 10-11 IECSC Ft. Lauderdale Booth #616, Sept 24-25 Face & Body Atlanta Booth #405, Oct 8-9 ISPA Las Vegas Booth #201, Oct 16-18

(714) 978-0080 • www.biophotas.com

latest launches Learn more about these new professional products! BiON Research Skin Care Products Pomegranate Papaya Enzyme Treatment by BiON Research Skin Care Products is essential as a professional product for exfoliation. Six different enzymes are used in this product to help dissolve keratin proteins and eliminate the dead cells on the skin’s surface. The fruit enzymes of pomegranate and papaya are rich in antioxidants and help to reduce bacteria and naturally promote exfoliation to reveal a refreshed and healthy complexion. The addition of pumpkin enzyme helps in fading the appearance of fine lines and softens the skin. 877-715-2466 or bionresearch.com

Colorscience Colorescience® All Calm™ Clinical Redness Corrector is the first to market three-in-one proprietary formula that instantly neutralizes the appearance of redness, helps soothe and calm sensitive skin, and provides SPF 50 protection while its patent pending BioSolace™ complex helps provide ongoing relief from sensitivity and the appearance of redness. Colorescience products are recommended by dermatologists and designed to bring beauty today while improving and protecting skin for tomorrow. 866-426-5673 or colorescience.com

Eve Taylor North America Eve Taylor North America’s Daily Skin Defence SPF 50 offers high protection against potentially-damaging ultraviolet rays with its formulation of broad spectrum filters. The lightweight formulation is perfect for all skin types and conditions with its blend of shea butter and soya offering skin nourishing benefits, cornflower for its softening actions, and sugar-based xylitol to intensely hydrate moisture-depleted skin in hot summer sun. Daily Skin Defence glides readily into the skin, leaving no greasy after-feel. 800-461-3745 or evetaylornorthamerica.com

latest launches

Janssen Cosmetics MATURE SKIN from Janssen Cosmetics is an innovative anti-aging product series with powerful active ingredients. The modular care system addresses the specific needs of mature skin and reactivates the skin’s natural renewal processes and cause small imperfections to optically disappear. The Cellular Regeneration Complex is a combination of highly active natural ingredients together with innovative technologies. Tried-and-tested active ingredients complete this innovative anti-aging concept for home care and professional use. 877-552-6739 or janssen-cosmetics.com

Skinprint Skinprint’s Skintellect ™ LumaSilk™ Emulsion is a feather-light lotion that instantly softens skin while lightening areas of discoloration often brought on by the natural aging process, prolonged sun exposure, hormonal changes, or a genetic predisposition. LumaSilk uses biomimetic science to replicate the skin’s natural process of renewing itself while the transepidermal penetration system allows for fast, more efficient brightening - all without the irritation or oily feeling commonly found in skin lighteners. 800-234-1308 or skinprint.com

S e p t e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

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10 things about...

Internal Skin Care

by Denise Baron

hen searching for acne solutions, people are forced to navigate the endless types of lotions, creams, soaps, exfoliants, and topical remedies that can cost hundreds of dollars. Focusing on topical forms of treatment is a mistake â&#x20AC;&#x201C; good skin starts from the inside by taking care of the body. The following list provides 10 ways clients can ensure their body is doing the work on the inside to take care of the outside.

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Fixing the inside starts with what clients are putting in their body. What they drink can have a huge impact on the skin. To keep skin hydrated and cool down the liver, professionals should serve cooling drinks, such as iced teas or tonics. While this suggestion is a common idea during warmer months, it is helpful year-round. Hibiscus mint is always a safe option; an even better option is coconut water. Additionally, pomegranate juice is cooling and helps with breakouts and acne.

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Partner up with an expert, such as a medical doctor, who can speak at the spa about gut health and its connection to skin. When professionals are dealing with their clients’ health, it is always smart to partner up with someone who has been trained in the specific field. The work they do will focus more on what is causing the body to respond in a way that is harming the skin and will, therefore, enable the professional and the expert to come up with a dietary plan that clients can use to take care of themselves and improve their health and skin. An expert will also be able to explain to professionals in more detail about the connection between gut health and skin care.

Recommend to clients that they remove any physical stress prior to eating. If they are feeling uncomfortable and internalizing the day’s complications, they will have a harder time allowing their body to digest what they are about to eat. That difficulty in digestion may cause their skin to react poorly. Suggest that they take three deep, cooling breaths before eating to help digestion and lessen the amount of stress placed on their internal organs to function efficiently.

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Lymphatic massage helps remove toxins and sludge from the body’s system. Suggest to clients that they book a lymphatic massage. Alternately, if possible, educate clients about lymphatic massage through an expert. If lymphatic massage is a practice that professionals are personally familiar with, teach clients on the spot how to perform the massage on themselves in the shower daily.

Recommend to clients that they incorporate ghee, or clarified butter, which is an ancient health food, into their diet and regimen. Originating in the Indian subcontinent, ghee has been used in countless health remedies over the centuries. Ghee benefits gut health through diet and can help to heal skin topically via application. Encourage clients to utilize ghee in all its numerous ways. In addition to ghee, fermented foods and drinks – such as kimchee, kefir, and sauerkraut – improve the probiotics in the gut.

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Detoxifying the body for one-to-three weeks may serve to improve a client’s well-being and skin. Detoxes serve to improve the body’s natural detoxifying agents – such as the liver and gut – in clearing toxins from the body. There are a number of ways to detoxify the body, including through juices, smoothies, and teas. Detoxes improve a person’s diet, increase energy, decrease stress, and improve the skin as toxins are removed from the body. Some experts do note, however, that the skin may become dry and patchy as the toxins are released; the skin will improve afterwards.

Skin is directly related to the nervous system, so to practice becoming as relaxed as possible will improve skin. Practicing yoga nidra is one way to completely relax the body. Yoga nidra is a form of meditation that is similar to the experience of falling asleep; it is somewhere between being asleep and awake – where the mind is fully conscious while the body is completely relaxed. Practicing yoga nidra has been shown to positively impact any number of physical and mental problems, from abdominal pain to anxiety. This improved well-being will influence the skin.

Skin care professionals seeking to provide the most current and helpful treatment plans need to be aware of how clients’ diet and care for their internal organs, such as their gut, will cause unexpected amounts of difference.

Mental stress can add to the stress put upon one’s body, which shows on the skin. There are a number of mobile applications designed to help combat stress and anxiety; utilizing one frequently can help decrease physical pains, such as backaches, headaches, and increase energy. Improving health in this way will improve the skin. Educate clients with resources for these mind, body, and spirit mobile applications, such as those from headspace.com, to calm the mind.

Denise Baron is an entrepreneur, wellness expert, and business strategist who works with fellow entrepreneurs, authors, and experts with public relations and business strategies around the globe.

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In order to further cleanse the body of toxins, moving around will help moving the lymph through the body to keep things clean and healthy. Vigorous exercise, such as trampoline jumping, will help to move the lymph and put the body in a position to start naturally pushing out bad elements that will worsen the overall health of the body and of the skin, as a result.

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Top 6 Oils to Use in Skin Care: Part 4 by Peter Friis, CEO of ESSIO Shower

t seems like everyone is currently obsessing over essential oils and aromatherapy. With their proven skin care benefits, incorporating them into clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; beauty regimen seems like a no-brainer! Mother nature is the best resource for effective solutions to skin care needs. ROSE ESSENTIAL OIL For many women, rose oil is something they remember their mothers, aunts, or grandmothers using when they were children. This oil, however, is anything but old-school. The powerful benefits of rose oil remain as relevant now as they were in the past. Rose oil smells amazing and its scent is a known stress-reducer, which

is highly important as s/tress can impact the skin. Simply smelling rose oil is good for the skin! In addition to its lovely and stress-reducing scent, this oil also has many skin care benefits. It is a known healer that helps to regenerate tissue and provide a number of anti-inflammatory benefits. As a result, rose oil is especially effective at toning and balancing the skin, as well as perfecting its overall texture. This oil is also very effective for psoriasis and dermatitis. If clients add a few drops of rose oil to their body moisturizer, they will notice their skin conditions smoothing and lessening over time.

Dos and Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ts:

Eyebrow Contouring

Do: Use an eyebrow gel. Eyebrow gels help to keep the eyebrows in place and define their shape. They are typically used at the end of the contouring process and are available in clear or tinted shades. Eyebrow gels are great for all clients, particularly those with unruly or curly eyebrow hair.

Don't:

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Overdo it. Contoured eyebrows should look as natural as possible. Avoid overdrawing and overfilling by using short strokes and apply powders in light, progressive layers. Eyebrows can also look overdone if the fill shade is too dark.

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Stem Cells –

Myth or Medical Breakthrough?

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by Danné Montague-King, L.E., founder of DMK-Danne Montague-King

ears ago, stem cells and growth factors became hero ingredients in skin care formulations. Some brands have claimed, that plant-based stem cells have helped reproduce human stem cells and growth factors, directly changing the behavior of human DNA.

HUMAN BIOLOGY VERSUS SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS Growth factors are proteins that regulate cellular growth, proliferation, and differentiation under controlled conditions, maintaining healthy skin structure. They are secreted by all cell types that make up the epidermis and dermis, including keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and melanocytes. Growth factors are naturally occurring regulatory molecules that stimulate cell and tissue function through influencing cell differentiation via changing their biochemical

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activity. They regulate the rate of proliferation (certain beta glucans are in this class), enhancing dendrite strength in the Langerhans cells and turning the macrophages at the end of each dendrite into a weapon of mass destruction against free radicals, bacterial attack, viruses, and parasitic invasion. Medical stem cell implantation plays a role as back-up support to implanted cells and potential autoimmune rejection. There have currently been many successes aspirating fresh stem cells from hipbones and re-injecting them into injured areas, such as a torn meniscus. Mesenchymal stem cells are cells that can develop into distinct mesenchymal tissue, such as bone, tendons, muscles, adipose tissue cartilage, nerve tissue, blood, and blood cells. However, this success is a far cry from the use of stem cells in creams, serums, and other skin care products. It

is a common misconception that plant stem cells in a cream or gel serum work with the body’s own stem cells. As a way of inflicting miniature wounds, technicians scratch cultured plant tissue. This damage stimulates the plant’s stem cells to react and heal, inducing the formation of new stem cells on the wounded surfaces. After slow replication and division on the outside, new cells fashion a large accumulation of colorless cells known as callous. Cells composing the

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is spotty or focused on only the areas of the epidermis where trauma is the most virulent. Rebecca James Gadberry’s dissertation on Epigenetics points this out. Using a person’s own skin stem cells, of which there is a rich supply of at any age located in two areas of the skin, requires getting to them with minimum inflammatory response; getting the stem cells out of their “house” and on a genetic pathway to another “house” in the skin, such as a keratinocyte or a fibroblast cell; and maintaining the differentiation over a period of time – 47 days at least – until fresh epidermal tissue is maximized. There are many types of stem cells with a variety of special functions. All of them are interconnected, but organ specific. The two main types of stem cells are embryonic stem cells and adult stem cells, such as somatic stem cells.

Other sub types, such as induced pluripotent stem cells, are laboratory produced by reprogramming adult cells to express embryonic stem cell characteristics. In skin, tissue-specific (or somatic) stem cells are more specialized than embryonic stem cells. Typically, these types of stem cells can generate different cell types for the specific tissue or organ in which they live. This information is the tip of a very large iceberg, but all skin care professionals arm themselves with the available, yet ever changing, knowledge that, in turn, will make cosmetic manufacturers more conscious of what is real and what is buzzword phony! The cells of the body are not programmed to die easily – they are programmed to stay alive, if possible, given the right maintenance and environmental surroundings.

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callous divide into cells that do not carry the specific features of individuated plant cells. This callous is used as an ingredient in facial creams. Downstreamdifferentiated plant cells possess the biochemical machinery required to produce the myriad of substances derived from plants that have pharmaceutical or other value (including quinine, digitalis, and aloe vera). Plant totipotent stem cells do not produce substances capable of affecting other cells. Callouses are forced upon living plant stems to encourage new baby cells, harvested, and then put into creams as “stem cell therapy.” Even rubbing human stem cells on the skin would never work; they would have to be alive in the product despite any effective delivery mechanism. Plant stem cells have nothing to do with the human genetic blue print. There has been some argument that these callouses or other plant stem cell extracts have many micronutrients that benefit the skin. This belief is no truer than other aspects of a plant, which includes roots, leaves, buds, flowers, and fruit. A potent botanical offering into skin cells that evoke an ionic transfer, a cellular impact of a physiological change (a reverse to homeostasis), depends largely on where the plant is grown, how it is prepared for extraction, how it is processed into a product with bio-availability that is still active, and the delivery system into the skin. Cosmetic manufacturers should look at what phytochemicals that skin cells respond positively to, and what they recognize, and how they can influence and support growth factors and life cycle of cells. Even if plant stem cells did have a biological energy kick start, many research papers have concluded that stem cells are just too large to penetrate the lipid barrier of the epidermis, even if they could be somehow kept alive in a cream or serum. There is, however, hope in stem cell research for total skin revision. Every time people do any kind of aggressive exfoliation, they are calling upon stem cells in the healing process. This process, however, is normally not very wellcontrolled or targeted, and the healing

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Spa Highlights

Did You Know

Spa Castle

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pa Castle is the premier Koreaninspired luxury spa, with one location in Carrollton, Texas and one location in College Point, New York. Spa Castle features a hybrid of traditional Asian and luxurious European spa treatments. From their Korean body scrubs to their Sauna Valley, each treatment focuses on health, youthfulness, and well-being. Spa Castle offers the Traditional Korean Body Scrub, which is the Korean practice of cleansing and exfoliation. This treatment uses textured gloves to remove dead skin and dirt while increasing circulation and firming the skin. Another Spa Castle treatment is Reflexology and Amma Therapy. The re-

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flexology portion of the treatment uses a technique that focuses on pressure points located in the hands and feet to target problem areas inside the body. Practitioners use unique micro-movement techniques of the thumbs, fingers, knuckles, and, occasionally, wooden sticks. Amma therapy involves stretching and targeting pressure points to help alleviate tense muscles throughout the body. Spa Castleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Elemental Well-Being Treatment is firmly rooted in the five element theory of traditional Chinese and Korean medicine; wood, fire, earth, metal, and water are used to help diagnose conflicting symptoms within the body and mind through signature therapeutic facials and massages.

When cosmetics were declared indecent in England in the 19th century by Queen Victoria, women would pinch their cheeks or use beet juice to create a rosy glow that resembled blush.

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How to Talk to Clients about Vaginal Rejuvenation by Cheryl Whitman, founder and CEO of Beautiful Forever

sional, but that is not a necessity, as long as a male professional comes across as caring and compassionate. So, how can professionals start the conversation? Professionals might wish to ask the client if she has given birth. If so, they can comment how many women suffer from urinary incontinence following delivery and ask if it is an issue for her. Let the client know that while urinary stress incontinence is common, it is not normal and is easily treated without surgery. Many women believe that others do not have these problems, so they are embarrassed to bring them up with their doctor. Professionals might also ask if the client has any other issues arising from vaginal aging or bearing children that cause discomfort or concern, such as painful intercourse, loss of sensation, and vaginal dryness. Again, let her know these are very common issues that can be corrected without surgery. When professionals receive a positive response to any of these questions, they should mention treatment options available that address these issues. Suggest that she make an appointment for her first treatment after answering any questions. Clients will thank the professional for starting a conversation that changes her life for the better.

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aginal rejuvenation is a hot marketing topic, a desperately needed treatment for a large portion of the female population, and an embarrassing, if not taboo, subject to discuss. How can skin care professionals broach the subject of vaginal rejuvenation with their female clientele without causing embarrassment to themselves or the client? According to the National Institute of Child Health and Human Development, “more than one-third of U.S. women have a Pelvic Floor Disorder (PFD) and nearly one-quarter of women in the United States have one or more PFDs that cause symptoms.” Although the number of women affected gradually increases with age, as many as 10 percent of women in their 20s and 30s require medical attention. Yale School of Medicine reports that, of women who experience urinary incontinence, 30 to 50 percent never seek treatment. Despite the tendency among women to “suffer in silence,” up to 90 percent of these cases can be treated successfully. From a purely statistical point of view, one out of every three or four clients is suffering from some form of urinary incontinence. Additionally, most women who have had children or are perimenopausal or menopausal suffer from vaginal dryness, painful intercourse, and lack of sensitivity. In short, the market for vaginal rejuvenation is extensive. Most women realize they have a problem, but do not know any way to correct it. Today, there are many nonsurgical and non-hormonal treatment options, ranging from radiofrequency to laser, that address many concerns in a quick, easy, painless in-office procedure with little-to-no downtime. This reality makes it an easy, life changing choice for women. As research continues into stem cells and growth factors, it is likely that feminine rejuvenation will also benefit. Considering the potentially embarrassing nature of the conversation, it may be best coming from a female profes-

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n the skin care industry, papaya is well known for its enzymatic exfoliation properties. Papain, the enzyme derived from the papaya fruit, is extremely proficient at removing dead skin cells and aiding in skin repair. Papaya is also believed to be hydrating and soothing for the skin. Cheryl Bryant-Rushing says, “Exfoliation is the name of the skin rejuvenation game. Whether treating acne or aging skin, professional exfoliation is of primary importance in determining any treatment’s direction. Papain is an extremely effective enzyme from papaya. It is available as a powder with activating fluid, paste, cream, mask, and cleanser. Papain is useful for all skin types.” Reference Surbhi. (n.d.). 7 Benefits Of Papaya For Skin- Know From Dermatologist (Dermatocare’s Natural Beauty Tips).

September is National Papaya Month!

To read more, check out Cheryl Bryant-Rushing’s article, “Identifying Professional Exfoliants,” at DERMASCOPE.com/papaya.

What is your daily skin care Ritual?

SURVEY We recently asked skin care professionals on DERMASCOPE.com to choose their spa’s top selling makeup product. Here are the results, according to the respondents:

Lipsticks scope this

by Robert Trow, CEO of ROCASUBA –

Eye products

29.2 %

RapidLash

24.9 %

use Environ’s Youth EssentiA Cleanser, followed by Youth EssentiA Vita-Peptide C-Quennce Serum 4 and Youth EssentiA Anti-Oxidant Defense Cream. Finally, I apply RapidBrow, RapidRenew, and Environ’s Avance.

100

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Foundation 41.7 %

4.2 % Blush or bronzer

Share your thoughts on our most recent online survey now!

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Moisturizers for Your Nails: The Need for Cuticle and Nail Oils Silva Hagopian, natural nail care specialist, Director of Education for Dazzle Dry

by Anabel De La Vega, author of TAO – The Art of Relaxation Sensitized skin is described as having reduced tolerance to the application of cosmetics and personal care products. Subject ive symptoms include  stinging  itching  burning

 redness  scaling

 peeling  and hives.

Sensit ized skin can lead to  contact urticarial

 dry skin  eczema

 allergic contact dermatitis  and others.

Ext reme weat her, such as cold or dry weather, can damage sensitized skin, and change the skin’s pH. Extremely cold winds can strip the skin of moisture. Chemicals, such as  fragrance  plant extracts mixed with alcohol  too much vitamin C

 retinols  alpha hydroxy acids  and beta hydroxy acids

can affect and create sensi t ivi ty to the skin, aging i t. Dyes can cause  dryness  allergic reactions

 hypersensitivity  and even contact dermatitis.

Perfumes can affect certain skin types, but mostly sensitized skin. It can cause an inflammatory reaction, redness, and itchiness. Steam can be used just for a few minutes to hydrate, but if it is overused, it can cause skin dehydration, redness, and dilation of blood vessels.

Clients with sensitized skin should stay away from products with aggressive ingredients, synthetic acids, and physical scrubs.

Sunlight is one of the biggest free radicals capable of damaging 80 percent of the epidermis, causing hyperpigmentation, redness, and aging skin. It also causes capillaries to break and frequent topical itching for sensitized skin. St ress is a chemical response in the body that makes the skin more sensitive and reactive.

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uticle oil is one of the most underused at-home nail treatments by both men and women. A common misconception is that cuticle oil is only for the cuticle. But that could not be further from the truth. Cuticle and nail oil act not only as emollient moisturizers for the cuticle, but also as conditioners for the natural nail plate. Often, people wonder why their cuticles are so dry when they use lotion several times a day. Truthfully, the molecular structure of lotion can be too large to penetrate the cuticle tissue and nail. Therefore, it is imperative to use an oil that is specifically formulated for the cuticle and nail. A well-conditioned nail plate is less prone to becoming brittle, cracking, and breaking. Cuticle and nail oil penetrate the cuticle and nail, keeping it flexible and preventing breaks. Cuticle oil protects the skin, improves nail growth, and keeps a manicure looking beautiful longer. Incidentally, well-moisturized nails are less prone to hangnails. So, what should you look for in your cuticle oil or cream? Find an oil that absorbs more rapidly than homemade nail oils. Look for a light, non-greasy blend of oils that are rich in skin identical ceramides and membrane phospholipids for naturally advanced hydration and protection. Some nail and cuticle oils also contain anti-microbial and aroma-therapeutic essential oils for efficient absorption and calming properties. Professionals should take an active role in encouraging clients to have healthy habits at home, such as wearing gloves while washing dishes and gardening, as well as using cuticle oil. With regular use, there will be a noticeable difference in the look and health of the client’s nails. These good habits will lengthen the life of the manicure and, in turn, the client will be more inclined to keep their regular appointments.

Sensitized Skin

scope this HEALTHY CORNER

Cooling Trends:

Cryotherapy

by Erin Madigan-Fleck, L.E.I., N.M.D., C.D.T., L.M.C., co-owner of Intellective Aesthetic Advanced Esthetic Training and owner of Naturophoria

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ryotherapy is the use of extremely cold temperatures used primarily to treat inflammation and injuries, however, it has been purported to treat a wide variety of skin and health conditions, as well. The Egyptians used cold therapy to treat injuries and inflammation as early as 2500 B.C.E. The simple application of cryogenics may employ the use of frigid water immersions or ice packs for pain management, which have been particularly advantageous for athletes involving sports injuries.1 The application of ice packs and the alternation of cold stimulus has also been widely used in the spa and skin care industry for both the body and face, based on the concept of “kneippism.” Cryotherapy utilizes Sir Isaac Newton’s “Law of Cooling.” This law promotes the idea that the internal, natural heat produced in the body will be reduced greatly by transferring the heat energy via intensive cooling of the external skin temperature. The cooler the temperature, the faster the transfer; in the case of cryogenics, the frigid surface or air. The resultant effect will cause a rebound for the internal temperature to rise rapidly, thus instigating circulation, oxygenation, and respiration. FREEZE BENEFITS Interestingly, cryotherapy initiates distinctive body responses due to the extreme temperature changes. The

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“cold shock” will prompt the skin temperature to drop, effecting the core and the entire body. As a result, thermoreceptor neurons and nerve endings send messages to the brain to release cold shock proteins (norepinephrine) that inhibit tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFa) production. TNFa is an inflammatory cytokine produced by the immune system in response to infection and injury. At the same time, the brain senses a rapid heat transfer due to extreme temperatures and facilitates a parasympathetic circulatory reaction. This reaction causes the blood to draw from the extremities to immediately transfer to help protect the core and organs. This entire transfer can happen within just a few minutes of exposure to whole body cryotherapy. Among the most impressive reported health benefits include the modification of important biochemical changes, including the reduction of pro-inflammatory cytokines, changes in antioxidant status, and very positive effects on muscular enzymes involved in muscle damage.1 With regard to weight loss, it is proposed that when the body is taken to drastic cold temperatures, the immune system catapults into survival mode, accelerates the metabolic rate, and may burn as much as 800 calories per session or 300 calories per day. Fat loss has been claimed by one provider, including as much as two pounds per month through a calorie deficit.5 Other potential weight loss benefits include greater distribution of body fat, improved blood circulation and muscle tone, and an increased metabolic rate.5 Whole body cryotherapy is a modern approach to cold therapeutics and employs a rapid application of cryogenics to achieve a variety of effects in comparison to localized applications. This form of cryotherapy first appeared in Japan during the 1970s and has been increasing in popularity for

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the area to be treated, type of lesion, and general purpose, the materials may be swabbed on with a cotton or foam applicator, a glass applicator rod, or sprayed on. A very popular cyroprobe device, which features liquid nitrogen cartridges, is also used for minor skin imperfections. The dermatological and aesthetic benefits of cryotherapy include treatment and removal of actinic keratosis, seborrheic keratosis, skin tags, and verruca. It also helps to increase skin tone, reduce fine lines, oxygenate the skin, address the appearance of pores and hyperpigmentation, and provide facial rejuvenation. Cryotherapy may have a great future in the spa setting as more research is conducted and popularity reigns. Cold water and cold therapy has been a beauty secret for many, many years. Look to add cooling instruments, such as beauty globes and the cold hammer, to the spa’s collection of aesthetic accessories for adding the cool touch to facials. References 1 Bleakley, C. M., et al. (2014, March 10). Whole-body cryotherapy: empirical evidence and theoretical perspectives. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm. nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3956737/ 2 Whole Body Cryotherapy (WBC): A "Cool" Trend that Lacks Evidence, Poses Risks. (2016, July 5). Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/ForConsumers/ ConsumerUpdates/ucm508739.htm 3 Costello, J. T. (2015, September 18). Whole-body cryotherapy (extreme cold air exposure) for preventing and treating muscle soreness after exercise in adults. PubMed - NCBI. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26383887 4 Borsuk, P., et al. (2013, March 27). Mental state and quality of life after 10 session whole-body cryotherapy. - PubMed - NCBI. Retrieved from https:// www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23535078 5 10 Cryotherapy Cold Sauna Weight Loss Benefits and Facts. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://cryotherapytoronto.ca/10-cryotherapy-coldsauna-weight-loss-benefits-and-facts/

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weight loss, pain management, and various health claims that the FDA has yet to support and substantiate, however, many health studies have been conducted to support the potential benefits of Whole Body Cryotherapy.1,2,3,4 It involves exposing the body to liquid nitrogen vapors from temperatures ranging from -200 to -300 degrees Fahrenheit for one-to-three minutes to inspire a rebound effect, encouraging the skin temperature to raise back to a normal 90.5 degrees.2 It can be administered in a “cabin” for a few people at a time or a single occupant pod capsule or cyrosauna. In a cyrosauna, the head is kept well out of the frigid vapor range to avoid skin, nerve, or health complications – a head cap and protection for ears, hands, and face is worn in fullexposure treatments. Cryotherapy may be also applied in sectional body or limb applications for addressing injuries. Whole Body Cryotherapy is promoted for improved sleep; firmer, healthier skin; decreased fatigue; weight loss; and natural detoxification. It is said to boost the immune system and energy levels, increase blood circulation, stimulation of collagen growth, and reduction of pain and inflammation. It also assists in pain relief from arthritis and nerve pain, decreased muscle soreness, and increased muscle repair. Cryotherapy has also been widely used in dermatology for many years and, more recently, in clinically supervised skin care settings. Cryotherapy is performed with liquid nitrogen used at below 196 degrees Celsius, carbon dioxide snow (a cylinder-shaped mixture of frozen liquid nitrogen snow and acetone used at -78.5 degrees Celsius), or dimethyl ether and propane (DMEP) used at -57 degrees Celsius. Depending on

ceu exam The CEU Exam is another way that AIA helps its members to continue their education. Send in the completed answer card and if a passing score is earned, a gold seal will be sent to add to your AIA continuing education certificate. The answers to this exam can be found in the editorial content of this issue. 1.

It is best to use soft, dark, matte shades when contouring a client’s face. a. True b. False

Whole body cryotherapy exposes the body to liquid nitrogen vapors that range in temperature from _____ to _____ degrees Fahrenheit. a. -100, -200 b. -200, -300 c. -300, -400 d. -400, -500

Sensitive skin does not typically lead to which of the following? a. Contact uticarial b. Acne c. Eczema d. Contact dermatitis According to the University of Maryland, _____ out of 10 adults say they have sleep problems a few nights a week or more. a. three b. four c. five d. six The skin is largely responsible for processing and eliminating systemic toxins, a process best fueled by drinking lots of water. a. True b. False More than one-third of American women have one or more pelvis floor disorders. a. True b. False

A contract is a written agreement – especially one concerning employment, sales, services, or tenancy – that is intended to be enforceable by law. a. True b. False

Facial exercises can help prevent sagging skin. a. True b. False

15. On average, British women keep makeup for _____ years after its expiration date. a. four b. five c. six d. seven 16. In 2016, the men’s grooming market reached _____ billion dollars. a. 18.57 b. 19.36 c. 20.21 d. 21.98

10. Ghee, or clarified butter, originated in which of the following countries? a. India b. China c. Pakistan d. Malaysia

17. Apple cider vinegar contains which of the following acids? a. Beta hydroxy acid b. Glycolic acid c. Hyaluronic acid d. Alpha hydroxy acid

11. Pumpkins contain which one of the following vitamins? a. Vitamin A b. Vitamin D c. Vitamin H d. Vitamin K

18. Malic acid has all of the following properties except which of the following? a. Antibacterial b. Antifungal c. Anti-inflammatory d. Antiviral

12. Alpha hydroxy acids break down skin cells. a. True b. False

19. DNA films are able to attenuate ultraviolet light while remaining optically transparent and increase ultraviolet attenuation with prolonged ultraviolet exposure. a. True b. False

13. Globally, women on average spend _____ yearly on beauty products. a. $136 b. $144 c. $154 d. $168

20. Bacillus subtilis produces which of the following enzymes? a. Pepsin b. Ligase c. Hydrolase d. Subtilisin

14. Which of the following stem cell types can generate different cell types for the specific tissue or organ they live in? a. Embryonic b. Pluripotent c. Somatic d. Mesenchymal

ceu exam

Typically, men have thicker skin than women. a. True b. False

Answer Card - September 2017 1. A B 2. A B C D

5. A B 6. A B

9. A B 10. A B C D

13. A B C D 14. A B C D

17. A B C D 18. A B C D

3. A B C D

7. A B

11. A B C D

15. A B C D

19. A B

4. A B C D

8. A B

12. A B

16. A B C D

20. A B C D

Name: ____________________________________________

AIA ID No. ________________________________________________________

DOB: ______________________________________________

Date Completed: _________________________________________________

Telephone: ( _____ ) ______________________________ E-mail: ____________________________________________________________ To take the CEU Exam online, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Halotherapy is a treatment that incorporates the benefits of natural, mineral-rich salts into the spa for its detoxifying and therapeutic effects. Because salt has a natural antibacterial effect, this treatment is ideal for clients with acne.â&#x20AC;? Detoxification Rachael Pontillo, L.E.

To read this article and more content like it, visit

dermascope.com. 106

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worth a look Take a closer look at products that are shaping our industry. SOLAR DEFENSE 50 by Asepta is part of the HELIABRINE® Sun Care Line. HELIABRINE’s unique formulas with patented micro-encapsulated filter technology are perfectly skin tolerant and offer a very high, invisible, and much more homogenous UVA and UVB protection while preserving the skin’s youthful appearance. SOLAR DEFENSE 50 offers extreme protection for the most sensitive skin and the first exposures to the sun. 619-498-1968 or aseptausa.com

Avene’s Thermal Spring Water is the only thermal spring water bottled directly from the source and packaged in a sterile environment. It soothes inflammation, itching, redness, general sensitivity, and post-medical and aesthetic procedure irritation. It also sets and refreshes makeup. It contains soothing, calming, softening key substances produced by aqua dolomiae, a microflora exclusive to Avène Thermal Spring Water. It is rich in silicate and trace elements and provides antioxidant protection with optimal calcium-magnesium ratio. 844-412-8363 or aveneusa.com

Ultimate Eye Shadow 5-in-1 Pro Palette Chroma Collection by Cinema Secrets will help you get your dose of heavy metal with metallic foil shadows. This fall-out resistant molten metal palette is long-wearing with a smooth and velvety application. Use either dry or wet for pigment-rich color that will shatter expectations. It is complete with shades of Atomic Silver, Rose Flare, Gold Horizon, Cosmic Copper, and Beyond Bronze. The palette includes a miniature eyeshadow brush and mirror. 818-846-0579 or cinemasecrets.com

Pedicute by Continuum Pedicare Spas is a portable foot spa that features an easy-lift tub that fills at any sink without hoses, pumps, or connectors. Its compact design and easy glide locking casters ensure total portability. The adjustable leg support and three levels of heat and aqua massage enhance client comfort and relaxation. It may be used with disposable liners. It is now available in cherry or dark wood stains and cream or black tubs. Just plug it in and start giving pedicures in minutes! 877-255-3030 or mycontinuumpedicure.com

Dorey Aromatherapy’s Body Boost Soaking Bath Salts will help clients in no time when they are feeling worn out. Nothing feels better than a nice, relaxing soak in the tub. This wonderful combination of salts, jojoba, eucalyptus, vetiver, and blood orange will help strengthen the immune system, soothe achy muscles, and get rid of that worn out feeling in just a short 10-to-20 minute in the tub. 972-567-3962 or doreyaromatherapy.com

Equibal Inc’s Finipil 4 Men Only by Nufree is an FDA-registered, overthe-counter antiseptic which is applied on clients after hair removal services. This antiseptic cream destroys 99.9 percent of bacteria, cools and soothes the skin, while protecting the empty hair follicle. This product is dermatologist researched, tested, and approved. It prevents clogging and infection of the empty hair follicle and helps to prevent ingrown hairs by keeping the skin clean and moisturized when used between hair removal services. It is approved for daily use. 800-247-2405 or nufree-professionals.com

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worth a look

Introducing truSculpt® 3D from Cutera Inc., the newest advancement in non-surgical body sculpting, offering up to 24 percent fat reduction in a single treatment. truSculpt 3D utilizes a controlled, monopolar radio frequency technology at 2 MHz to deliver targeted, uniform heating of the subcutaneous adipose tissue to achieve the highest clinical efficacy in the shortest possible treatment time. Treatment offers an optimized and customizable approach to body sculpting for any size areas, and is virtually painless with no downtime. 888-428-8372 or cutera.com

worth a look

FANIÉ International’s Botanical Misty Mineral Spray is great to spritz on the skin after a facial or professional treatment. It is a unique product that contains filtered herbal water with licorice root, and formulated with a blend of many necessary vitamins and minerals. This spray has been used for many years to cool and maintain healthy, smooth skin. This wonderful formula not only cools the skin, but helps women’s hot flashes. 949-598-4500 or fanie.com

FIT Bodywrap takes the meaning of body wrapping to a whole new level. This patent-pending system delivers clinically proven, soothing, and effective infrared rays to the body to help with a wide range of therapeutic benefits which include: weight loss, detoxification, cellulite reduction, pain relief, skin rejuvenation, and intense relaxation. The revolutionary infrared system works by melting stored fats and toxins and removing them from the body, which leaves the client feeling revitalized, rejuvenated, and relaxed. 888-534-8669 or fitbodywrap.com

Hanna Isul Skin Therapy’s Firming AHA Serum, known worldwide as “the 60 second lift,” is a remarkable clinical formulation which instantly transforms the appearance of mature, sun-damaged, and wrinkled skin by creating firmer, smoother skin and refining pores. This patented, cosmetic, firming formulation provides high concentrations of vitamins A, C, and E, as well as other precious nutrients to the skin, facilitating the appearance of healthy skin by reducing the appearance of pores, firms sagging and wrinkled skin, and encouraging collagen growth by working at the cellular level. 817-377-4331 or hannaisul.com

WORTH A LOOK

Eye Cream Complex by Institut’ DERMed Enhancing is a technologically advanced eye treatment cream featuring a tri-peptide formula. The delicate eye area lacks its own oil glands, which is why it is the first area of the face to show aging. This super-hydrating cream complex is formulated with Matrixyl 3000™, Eyeliss, and Haloxyl to visibly soften and reduce the appearance of expression lines and wrinkles, as well as reduce puffiness and diminish the appearance of dark under-eye circles. 770-454-7788 or idermed.com

LA DEFENSE Urban Protect Detox Mask by Luzern Laboratories is just one of five products included in Luzern’s anti-pollution collection. Formulated to detox, defend, and hydrate skin, this comprehensive skin care regimen is the solution to combat today’s modern lifestyle filled with environmental aggressors. This purifying mask includes bentonite and kaolin clay to lift away surface impurities, as isoleucine detoxifies multi-layers of skin while improving elasticity. Proprietary AlpPure Protect™ prevents pollution from creating both short- and long-term damage to skin. 888-591-7800 or luzernlabs.com

Make Up First, LLC’s FIRST® Sanitizer is the first all-natural, certified organic makeup sanitizer used to disinfect makeup products between uses without destroying the integrity of the cosmetic. Plus, it leaves no greasy residue behind, unlike other brands. Just hold the bottle six inches from the product and mist lightly. It contains five simple ingredients: alcohol, rose water, aloe vera, witch hazel, and vanilla. 888-828-3937 or makeupfirst.com

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ROCASUBA, Inc’s RapidLash® Eyelash and Eyebrow Enhancing Serum is an award-winning serum formulated with an exclusive HEXATEIN™1 COMPLEX, which is a blend of six highlyeffective ingredients that include polypeptides, biotin, panthenol, amino acids, soybean oil, and pumpkin seed extract. These nourishing ingredients are chosen for the perfect balance to target eyelashes and eyebrows from every angle. With RapidLash Eyelash and Eyebrow Enhancing Serum, eyelashes and eyebrows will reach their maximum beauty potential with a flawless, youthful appearance! 508-539-7077 or rapidlash.com

worth a look AHA+ Deep Gel Cleanser by Shunly Skin Care, LLC is an oilfree, gel-based active cleanser with Shunly Skin Care FUSION FORMULA® featuring alpha (glycolic acid) and beta (salicylic acid) hydroxy acids. Natural enzymes provide a deep cleansing action that thoroughly removes excess oil, surface impurities, and makeup, leaving the skin fresh and conditioned. This cleansing gel delivers gentle exfoliation to improve skin tone and texture. It is free from parabens, oils, gluten formulas, fragrances, and it is vegan friendly. 214-213-9648 or shunlyskincare.com

Thalgo USA’s Collagen Eye Roll-On is the perfect product to reduce puffiness and dark circles. Concentrated in marine collagen, the triple ball roll-on smooths fine lines and wrinkles and instantly awakens and brightens the eyes. It is a fresh gel with a powdery floral scent that relaxes and soothes the eyes. Active ingredients include native marine collagen, caffeine micropatch, and actiflow plant extract. 954-525-9665 or thalgousa.com

Topix Phamaceuticals’ Replenix® UltiMATTE Perfection SPF 50+ is a six-in-one BB cream providing superior broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection with a skin perfecting tint that reduces the visible signs of aging and evens skin tone. It can be worn alone or under foundation. It contains 16.2 percent micronized zinc oxide, broad spectrum SPF 50+, ceramides, and phospholipids. It provides all-day oil control and moisturizes with 90 percent green tea polyphenols, and antioxidant protection. With its universal pigment technology, it can be used as a concealer or makeup primer. 800-445-2595 or topixpharm.com

worth a look

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educational listings NATIONAL Intellective AEsthetics • • • • •

Global Pathways in AEshetics The AEsthani Method® Advanced AEsthetics Sciences Functional AEsthetics Certification Master Educators – Modular Training 2016 Regional Events

Dr. Erin Madigan-Fleck erin@intellectiveaesthetics.com Alexandra J. Zani alex@intellectiveaesthetics.com Voice: 864-640-1516

california Alexander’s Aesthetics Education Center Alexander’s Aesthetics Education Center provides skincare professionals skills and knowledge needed for a successful career. We offer oncology, skincare, waxing, sugaring, lash extension, and many more classes. Available for rent.

1675 Rollins Road, Suite D Burlingame, CA 94010 800-367-2539 education@alexanders-aesthetics.com alexanders-aesthetics.com

south carolina

iS UNIVERSITY

Southeastern Esthetics Institute

iS UNIVERSITY™ is a world-class, on-demand, and unbiased education platform for aesthetic professionals. Learn from industry leaders through our advanced courses on topics such as skin health, science, treatments, techniques, business building and more.

823 Gervais St., Suite 120 Columbia, SC 29201 Voice: 803-468-4643 seestheticsinstitute.com

Voice: 818-588-0464

FLORIDA

texas

Dermastart Dermastart, a certified CEU provider, is highlighting the following three courses: 1. Understanding Chemical Peels – 6 hours 2. Cell Deficiency and the Benefit of the Mushroom – 4 hours 3. Understanding Skin Conditions: Rosacea and Acne – 6 hours Visit our education website for a complete list of our current classes

Paul Mitchell The School Austin 9503 Research Blvd, #310 Austin, TX 78759 Voice: 512-251-1644 austin.paulmitchell.edu

940 W Oakland Avenue Suite A3 Winter Garden, FL 34787 866-589-2949 dermastart.com

new york

utah

Aesthetic Science Institute

Aesthetic VideoSource

We offer a certified, head-to-toe, hands-on workshop that serves individual needs and uses botanical cosmetic chemistry with natural results. We are known as the first true pioneer in the professional industry and use unique, classic formulas from FANIÉ International.

ASI is an international CIDECO aesthetics school offering 1200-hour advanced aesthetics classes, 600-hour aesthetics classes, 300-hour nail specialty classes, laser certification, paramedical certification, and continuing education for microdermabrasion, chemical peels, eye lash extensions, dermaplaning, and Brazilian bikini wax! Enroll today and take your career to a whole new level!

8 Faraday Suite A Irvine, California 92618 Voice: 800-441-3264 info@fanie.com • fanie.com

We have built a reputation of service and quality as the best source for educational training DVDs in the spa and beauty industry. Our titles include many award-winning productions, so you can be assured of the quality. We offer training for aestheticians, massage therapists, cosmetologists, skin care specialists, and more through DVDs or video streaming.

922 Troy Schenctady Road Latham, NY 12110 Voice: 518-786-0760 aestheticscienceinstitute.com

Toll Free: 800-414-2434 Voice: 801-282-2490 info@videoshelf.com videoshelf.com

Estheticians Pharmacology Research Institute

ASI

AESTHETIC SCIENCE INSTITUTE School of Ap p earance E nhance me nt

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Company Name

Pages Health and Harmony................................................ 109

Aesthetic Laser Academy......................................... 104

ilike organic skin care................................................. 43

Alexandria Professional............................................ IBC

Institut Esthederm Canada......................................... 30

Beauty Attica, Inc./Dr. Jeff Skin Care......................... 11

International Congress of Esthetics

Bella Schneider Beauty.............................................. 69

and Spa (ICES)......................................................20, 46-47

Bio France Lab........................................................... 64

Le Mieux Cosmetics................................................... 38

Bio Jouvance Paris..................................................... 67

LightStim International............................................... 71

BiON Research Skin Care Products............................ 58

Lira Clinical................................................................. 23

Brush Up With Barbara............................................... 82

Lucrece....................................................................... 22

CBI Laboratories......................................................... 59

Nouveau Contour....................................................... 17

Celluma by BioPhotas................................................ 88

Nufree/Equibal........................................................... 79

Cirepil by Perron Rigot Paris...................................... 48

Progressive Esthetics.................................................. 40

Colorescience............................................................. 13

Raya Cosmetics.......................................................... 57

CryoProbe.................................................................. 24

Rejuvi Laboratory....................................................... 25

Dermaglow................................................................. 84

RevitaLash.................................................................. 32

DERMASCOPE Magazine.......................................... 76

Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals................................... 6

Dermastart/Prana SpaCeuticals................................. 15

RN Faces.................................................................... 85

DermAware Bio-Targeted Skin Care............................ 9

SAIAN Natural Clinical Skin Care............................... 86

Dimensions in Aesthetics........................................... 90

Shunly Skin Care....................................................... 109

DMK-Danne Montague-King..................................... 94

Skin Blends LLC.......................................................... 72

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FANIÉ International.................................................... 75

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Spa Revolutions.......................................................... 63

GlyMed Plus.............................................................. BC

Texas Beauty Institute (TBI)........................................ 70

Grande Cosmetics.................................................18-19

Tweezerman............................................................... 65

Hale Cosmeceuticals.................................................. 83

Vivant Skin Care......................................................... 52

Visit DERMASCOPE.com to find out more about the advertisers included within this issue.

POSTAL NOTIFICATION DERMASCOPE (issn# 1075-055X) is published monthly with a special issue in March by WES Publishing, 310 East Interstate 30, Suite B107, Garland, TX 75043. Periodical postage paid by USPS, Garland, Texas and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DERMASCOPE, 310 East Interstate 30, Suite B107, Garland, TX 75043. Your magazine cannot be forwarded without instruction from you. If your address changes, please inform us at least six weeks in advance. Some back issues are available for $7.50 each, postage and handling not included. DERMASCOPE, including artwork and logotypes published herin, are registered trademarks of Geneva Corporation of Texas. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without permission.

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ADVERTISERS IMDEX

Advance Esthetic.................................................. 56, 87

fact or fiction Facial exercises can help prevent sagging skin.

by Dasha Saian, co-founder and CEO of SAIAN

FACT OR FICTION

ow many people have heard about face yoga or facial exercises, but are unsure if these methods really work for tightening sagging skin? There are a number of YouTube tutorials, books, and miscellaneous information on the subject available online, which may confuse the general public. Articles in Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire boast facial exercise as an effective method for obtaining a younger-looking face. If muscle training works to strengthen the body, it must work in the same way on the face, right?

“The exercises work the hypodermis or the lower layer of the skin, the dermis or the middle layer, and the epidermis or the upper layer,” says face yoga expert, Danielle Collins. “By working all these layers correctly, it will increase the blood circulation, allowing more oxygen and more nourishment to reach the cells of the skin. The result is a clear, healthy complexion with a beautiful glow which has less toxins and has a better ability to absorb moisture.” The reality is that there has been absolutely no research confirming this statement to be true. On the contrary, plastic surgeons unanimously agree that facial exercises can indeed cause deeper expression lines and more wrinkling, but why? The hypodermis (subcutaneous tissue) is mostly made up of fat tissue and fibrous bands that anchor the skin to the

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deep fascia. This layer may vary in levels in the body from very minimal, such as in areas of the eyelids, or relatively thick, such as in the fat around the abdomen and waist. Hypodermis aging is observed by the loss of fat tissues, which affects the shape of the face, neck, and hands – sagging skin. The cheeks and eye sockets may hollow out and the skin on the neck, breasts, and hands may lose its firmness. Muscular stimulation by facial exercise does not correct this issue; furthermore, more expression lines are created in the areas where the hypodermis is thinnest. Through repeated strenuous facial muscle engagement, more lines are formed in the same way crow’s feet, marionette lines, and forehead wrinkles are naturally created. What methods actually work to reduce sagging skin? Manual facial

stimulation, such as Dien Chan multireflexology, facial acupressure, facial acupuncture, and European massage are all effective at toning the facial muscles and stimulating circulation, which offers a plump, revived appearance to sagging skin. There are also numerous devices that tone and lift sagging skin, including microcurrent machines, phototherapy LED, and radio frequency modalities. In a medical setting, machines such as ThermiTight, ThermiSmooth, IPL, and fractional laser are all beneficial in tightening the skin without surgical involvement. Topical products based on hyaluronic acid, peptides, and growth factors hydrate and nourish the skin, giving it a supple and youthful glow. In addition to anti-aging products, regular use of sunscreen protects the skin from sun damage and elastosis.