Founder/Editor In Chief Managing Editor
Kathy Tarbox Beth Byrne
COLUMNS WRITERS Features Guest Articles Interview Soap Candles Potpourri Tech Talk In The Lab Formulary
Sara Golding La Shonda Tyree Tammie Siller Diana Gale Beth Byrne Cindy Novak Bill McConnell Ruth Romano Niki Senior Cindy Lantier
EDITORIAL OFFICE 344 Mizzen Ave NW Ocean Shores, WA 98569 Phone. 425.760.1004 • hello@makingsoapmag.com Making Soap, Cosmetics & Candles Magazine (ISSN 1099-6672) is published bimonthly (6x year) by Petal Pusher Press www.makingsoapmag.com
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INSIDE THIS ISSUE EDITOR LETTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 CONTRACT MANUFACTURING VS PRIVATE LABEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 SEVEN THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE SCALING UP PRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 SOAPERS HAVE AN AGENDA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 PRIVATE LABEL MANUFACTURING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 MASTERBATCHING: SECRETS TO SUCCESS . . . . . . . . 19 SETTING UP FOR BIG PRODUCTION IN SMALL SPACES . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 UPC CODES AND WHOLESALE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 IMPORTANT DIGITAL TRENDS FOR BUSINESS IN 2019 . . . . . . . 30 CHI CHIRAPSIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 OIL INFUSION BASICS . . . . . . . . . 36 MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
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EDITOR LETTER Many in the bath and body/candle industry are making great strides in business, from the days where they sold solely by word of mouth and small craft shows to brick-andmortar stores, wholesale accounts and private label, including contract manufacturing. If this description fits you, we are here to help you get started or to take the next step. Our experienced authors instruct us about USP codes, scaling advice and more. If you are not in business, you will still find stimulating information on soap, infusing oils and gua sha. Whether you enjoy Making Soap in digital or print, plan some time to relax and absorb the information presented! Beth Byrne Managing Editor CORRECTIONS: NOV/DEC 2018 — Correction to Cindy Jones Lantier’s “Natural, Non-Toxic Deodorant” formula. PAGE 27: The process mentioned adding jojoba oil, however, the amount was not included within the list of ingredients. The amount of Jojoba oil missing should be 10 grams. JAN/FEB 2019 — Correction to Bill McConnell’s “Essential Oils and Pets” article. PAGE 11: Not everyone agreed with the advice in our article, “Essential Oils and Pets.” We realize that reliable information on the topic is hard to find and proper research is lacking. We heartily recommend individual research on this important topic before subjecting pets to essential oils. Look for advice from resources with credentials and experience. To help out, we direct your attention to a couple of reliable sources for information: • Animal Aromatherapy (Safe) Use: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1595932084001505/ permalink/1595937900667590/ • https://www.aromaweb.com/ Your pet’s safety is important to us at Making Soap, and we want to help you find the best information available. MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
MARCH/APRIL 2019 ISSUE #93 Published by Petal Pusher Press 344 Mizzen Ave NW Ocean Shores, WA 98569 (c) 2019 Petal Pusher Press. All Rights Reserved. Making Soap, Cosmetics & Candles Magazine is the educational and encouraging voice for the makers of handcrafted soap, cosmetics and candles, focusing on materials, design, techniques and solutions. Sold online and through our stockists. If you would like to stock the magazine, contact us. Your questions and comments are welcome. Please send them to hello@makingsoapmag.com
AUTHORS’ GUIDELINES Our website includes a page for potential writers; this includes information on what we are looking for. The Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts. ADVERTISING For rates or to place your ad in the next issue visit our advertising page located at www.makingsoapmag.com DISCLAIMER Making Soap, Cosmetics & Candles Magazine exists solely to give information to its readers, and strives for accuracy in its articles and honesty in its advertisements, but the publisher and editors assume no responsibility for injuries or loss incurred by anyone utilizing the information in the articles or responding to the ads. Copyright© 2019 by Making Soap, Cosmetics & Candles Magazine. All Rights Reserved. Material may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission. For reprints, contact the publisher at: hello@makingsoapmag.com or visit www.makingsoapmag.com PRINTED IN THE USA
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FEATURE
Contract Manufacturing vs Private Label by SARA GOLDING
If you are looking for other opportunities for your business with wholesale orders, consider Contract Manufacturing and Private Label sales. Both of these sales are generated from you providing products to an outside sales source. However, each of these types of sales present a few distinct differences. Contract Manufacturing is when an outside company purchases products made by you for them. Specifically, you make a product based on their recipe or other specifications. With contract manufacturing, the purchasing company takes advantage of your skills, resources and production capabilities, so they do not have to make the product themselves. As the manufacturer, you receive the benefit of their retail sales channels and marketing. With contract manufacturing, plan on their exclusive rights to the formula and other specifications outlined in their contract with you. Private label sales, on the other hand, sell your product to an outside company, as is, just under their product label. The biggest benefit to you is that you can sell this particular product under your own brand label, as well as under labels to multiple other companies. Private label manufacturing offers no exclusivity.
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FEATURE
Contract Manufacturing vs Private Label by SARA GOLDING It can be a little confusing when you first look at it. Here thus, are a few examples of Contract Manufacturing vs. Private Label: Contract Manufacturing: A local brewery wants you to make a soap using their beer. They want to sell it under their brand’s logo. Because they are using a recipe made with their own beer, they do not want to allow the brewery across town or anyone else access to this soap’s specific formula. Private Label: You make and sell lip balms. A dentist’s office wants to purchase large quantities of your lip balms, using their own logo to promote their business. Soon, you are selling lip balms to three other dentist offices. Each label has been made to reflect the individual dentist they are advertising, but the lip balm itself is the same formula/recipe. Just like any other wholesale account, you want to ensure that you charge appropriately for the actual cost of goods, labor costs, design fees, formulary fees. You also want them to purchase bulk quantities to make it worth your time. Another advantage of Contract/ Private manufacturing is that this also opens up doors for you as a small business owner to add new products at a lowered risk and start-up cost. Bath bombs are notoriously finicky, but your customer base has asked for them. Instead of making them yourself, can you look into companies that sell bath bombs at a wholesale price? After purchasing the bombs, you can label them under your own brand design. By purchasing pre-made bath bombs, you reduce the amount of time you
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[2] spend up front on developing and testing out recipes. When you initially make a new product, you frequently add new ingredients that increase inventory but diminish buying power. You spend money on new ingredients, rather than on ingredients for existing products. [2] Over time, you can evaluate bath bomb sales to see if it is worth the effort to make them yourself. You might find that it is easier and more cost efficient to continue to purchase these bath bombs than produce them. This is one of many similar scenarios where private label sales works to benefit you, as a small business. After seeing hand crafters and makers struggle as they transitioned into business, Sara desired to share the basics of business. Beyond small business consultations, Sara stays busy with her company, Sunflower State Soap, and raising her daughter.
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Seven Things to Consider Before Scaling Up Production by LA SHONDA TYREE
You currently sell retail and perhaps, even wholesale. With the need for additional inventory, production ramped from single batches to double or triple the original batch size. As you strategize to increase business growth, consider diversifying, which may include private label and contract manufacturing. Take a moment first, though, to ask yourself a question. Are you ready to scale manufacturing? Let’s look at an example: You have the opportunity to sell in a major big box chain, such as Whole Foods, in which they have hundreds of locations regionally and nationally. Are you ready to scale up manufacturing to meet their initial order? Do you have the capacity to keep their shelves restocked with new inventory on a regular basis? What about the world of private label manufacturing or contract manufacturing? As you begin to build clientele, you need to scale production. Scaling production will afford benefits, including savings on raw ingredients and time. However, consider a few factors first: 1) CAPACITY – One thing to consider is if you have enough space to efficiently work. Do you have enough space to hold raw materials and finished product? Scaling production means ordering more supplies. More supplies
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Seven Things to Consider Before Scaling Up Production by LA SHONDA TYREE means more space and storage. You may have to search for a larger space to manufacture out of and store inventory. 2) EQUIPMENT – If you produce larger batches, it is time to think smarter and use larger molds or pots to make products. The time it takes to make five pounds of soap will closely match the time it takes to make twenty-five pounds of soap; so why not work efficiently and use larger, more durable equipment? The time savings will definitely reflect itself in the bottom line over time. 3) SUPPLIES – You need to source ingredients. What are the price points of the raw ingredients and packaging you need? Is it time to buy in drums now instead of pails? What is the turn-around time for shipment? What is the minimum order to gain
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the cost benefit of freight shipping? Consider these factors when scaling. Also, make sure to devise a backup plan when it comes to suppliers. With two to three suppliers in the pipeline, just in case one supplier goes out of business or does not have what you need in stocks allows an uninterrupted supply chain. Not having a supply source is stressful with orders to fulfill. 4) CASH FLOW – It is all about the Benjamins… right? It surely is. When dealing with large, big box companies, be sure you can handle the cash flow constraints scaling places on a business. Many do not think about this when negotiating terms. They are excited about getting the big order, but do not look at the potential financial hardship it may put the company in. Consider that many companies operate with terms of net 90 days.
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Seven Things to Consider Before Scaling Up Production by LA SHONDA TYREE What does that do for your company’s bottom line? Look hard at your financials, especially cash flow. Are you able to float during those months without receiving payment? Remember too, you will not get a deposit to buy raw ingredients or to buy the equipment necessary to scale up. This will initially come out of pocket. Know your numbers to see if you have the cash reserves to float this order until the golden check comes in, or how you might finance it. Also, do not anticipate cash arriving at the ninety day mark. Oftentimes, you must wait longer to finally get invoices paid from the wholesaler. Look at your financials to determine if you have the cash flow or cash reserves to float during the wait time. Will your business survive regular expenses while you wait for the check? It is a lot to consider, but necessary, nonetheless. 5) HUMAN CAPITAL – Think seriously about whether or not you can scale up by yourself. Think about your needs in terms of staffing, and if you require part time, full time, seasonal or temporary help. What do you need in order to fulfill the job in time? If you need to hire, look into your state’s requirements regarding employees. 6) CONTRACT MANUFACTURING – Maybe it is time to consider no longer manufacturing products yourself and hire a contract manufacturer to produce them. Shop around and look for a contract manufacturer that will reproduce your formulas satisfactorily. Find out the minimum
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order and reorder sizes. Some will front the cost of manufacturing if you can show the required documents for the order from a company such as Target or Whole Foods. They do this because they are certain that these companies will pay in the near future. 7) BE REALISTIC – When negotiating, be realistic. You know what it takes to manufacture products. What are the realistic turnaround times when it comes to ordering supplies, manufacturing, packaging and shipping? The last thing you want to do is over-promise and under-deliver. Instead, do the reverse; set expectations lower, but wow them with early delivery. They will remember you and your exceptional service. This task can be daunting at first. Growth and change is initially very uncomfortable and will require changes to the status quo. Do not lose the excitement and enthusiasm about the new wholesale client or large private label order. Keep in sight the opportunity and what it offers. Plan for success and not failure. It will be worth the work. La Shonda Tyree was Acting Controller, but became a Soapmaker and Entrepreneurship Coach. Buying soap making supplies from a local craft store changed the course of her life! La Shonda has made soap since 2002 under the brand, Nyah.
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Soapers Have An Agenda by TAMMIE SILLER
One year ago, I started soaping. Yes, I am very new at all this. I had a fear of working with lye and wondered if I was going to cause some kind of explosion, or worse, I would not figure it all out and end my experience in frustration. I am skilled at many things--real estate, tax preparation, tarot, reiki and more; but I have one of those brains that is a wee bit scattered. I have infused oils and made hydrosols and tinctures for a while now. I wanted to make soap for years, and finally decided to try. My turning point was when I met the sweetest woman at a craft fair and chatted with her. She turned me on to a soap making group, which turned out to have the most helpful members you could ever meet. I did not know they had a secret agenda. I asked stupid questions and they sweetly and calmly helped me get my courage up to give soapmaking a try. I read their posts and saw the wonderful soaps they made. Little did I know of their agenda. I learned about online soap and essential oil calculators, read numerous posts on soaping sites and viewed many YouTube videos. I learned about trace, swirls, plops and the properties of different oils. Finally, I was ready. But was I? No one told me one simple issue with making soap — its addictive nature. Of course, these other
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Soapers Have An Agenda by TAMMIE SILLER soapers knew all along. Here, I thought I would just give it a try and see what it was all about. I found out firsthand how addicting it is, instead. I made my first batch following a simple three-oil formula, but added blackberry jam I previously made. Why, I really do not know, but I did. It was awful! My second batch included olive oil infused with dandelions and turmeric for color. I have to say I loved that soap. Unfortunately, I did not know how to properly line a wood mold, so the soap has a rounded bottom, which makes it mine. All mine! After that, things got a little out of hand. I kept trying new ideas, posted on this lovely group and received kind feedback. All the while, they knew I was getting hooked as they placated me into believing I was doing well. By the time I realized what was happening, I was in too deep. I started this to make gifts for friends and family. I finally realized how bad it was when I got large shelves to
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keep batch after batch of soap I made. I could not stop. My craft room was full of oil from Costco, lye from the hardware store and clay and other natural colorants from all over. I really knew I was in trouble when I learned about the hot process method of making soap. One day, I started the crockpot with a hot process batch and then made a cold process soap. After it was poured, the hot process batch was done, so I poured it and started another batch of cold process. Afterwards, as I stood looking at my kitchen littered with used soap dishes and the three full molds, I understood I was in deep. Too deep. Oh, but it did not stop there. I enjoy a glass or two of wine now and then—okay, every night. Anyway, I got this bright idea; I should make bath bombs to accompany all this soap. I got on Amazon and
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Soapers Have An Agenda by TAMMIE SILLER ordered citric acid and Epsom salts, since I already had cornstarch and baking soda. Of course, I chose free shipping so it took about a week to get here. In truth, I have never even used a bath bomb, nor had I any idea how to make one. As the supplies rolled in, I got on YouTube, joined a group for bath bomb makers and learned how to make those, too. And yes, you guessed it, I have tons of different kinds of bombs. I have since learned that I am not the least bit artistic, and never have been. For all my time working with energy and other worldly things, I am very left brained, which is what enamors me about soapmaking. It is chemistry. You can put in a grey power and it turns brown, a pink powder and it turns either blue or purple. You can mix stuff up, twirl it, shake it, pour high, pour low, put your right foot in, put your right foot out… sorry, I digress. My point is that there is science to all of this. On this site where these lovely people, yes the same ones who clasped their hands and smiled knowingly as I slowly slipped down the rabbit hole, they are artists! What they can do with lye water and oil is a marvel to me. It is true art. Soaping is practical as can be, but some make it a beautiful expression. Of those people, I am in awe.
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Here I am, with a crap room . . . I mean, a craft room full of soap. I gave away a lot; I even went to a show and sold some. Still, my shelves are nearly full. I recently went to Costco and bought several liters of oil. I ordered new natural colorants and I have several bottles of lye. But, you see, my shelves are “nearly” full. I think I can fit a couple more molds worth on them. I mean, I have friends into new age stuff. They need chakra soaps, right? Seven charkas, seven soaps. Right? These experienced soapmakers watched gleefully as I fell down the pit of addiction, and yet, I am very thankful that no 12-step program for soapmakers exists! No one is here to tell me I am out of control. I mean, I can’t let the supplies go to waste, right? Right? Tammie a mother of two and many fur babies. Her main purpose in life is healing, a family tradition handed down by her grandmother. She says she is basically an old hippy with a love for life.
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Private Label Manufacturing by DIANA GALE
On behalf of our readers, I recently asked Soapsmith Bonnie Klisiewicz Bartley of Allegheny Hearth (www.alleghenyhearth.com) to offer her most valuable insights about the private label side of skin care manufacturing. Bonnie is a frequent speaker, mentor and demonstrator at soapmaking symposiums and gatherings, and actively participates in online forums. Awarded the Certified Handmade Artifact as a Charter Artisan, Bonnie is a Fire Mentor, Innovator, Test Pilot and Maven at ArtFire, an online selling site for handmade products. (www.artfire.com). Bonnie has been in the soapmaking business since 1979. She started out by selling in person at markets and shows, as well as at the store where she was office manager. The internet did not yet exist, so her business grew slowly and organically through word of mouth and repeat customers. The internet came along, but Bonnie had never taken a product photo or used Paypal, had never heard of SEO (search engine optimization) and did not know social media. In its first year online, her business shipped just 656 items. In year two, sales grew to 1500 items. When the ArtFire community came online in 2008, Bonnie became a charter member. The amazing staff at ArtFire was very helpful by providing detailed advice on SEO, marketing, and how to build an online presence. With this priceless guidance, things really took off for Bonnie in year three. By the start of 2019, her business shipped over 60,000 items through multiple online venues. Bonnie slowly expanded into the wholesale market over the years, yet she turned down business due to demand higher than she could fulfill. The true seeds of her success with private label sales germinated when she was approached by several big retailers. Bonnie currently sells private label products to Free MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
People, Urban Outfitters, and Home Shopping Networks. I asked Bonnie how a soapmaker might gain private label accounts. Her valuable advice started with, “Always provide positively outrageous customer service and you will be rewarded with loyalty, and that is priceless!” It was not so daunting a task, as she progressed slowly and steadily into high volume and corporate sales. As demand grew, so did her skillset. “Success came by word of mouth and selling through multiple online venues. Nothing replaces the most valuable asset to any business – a strong repeat customer base. Corporate buyers will find you if you establish a positive reputation.” Seventy-five percent of Bonnie’s success comes from search engine optimization. Good pricing practices, marketing skills and creating good quality product photos help to round out the www.makingsoapmag.com • 16
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Private Label Manufacturing by DIANA GALE
other 25 percent. She says, “You are in business to make a profit, so don’t undermine yourself with poor pricing practices. Set prices that are justified by your skill level and product quality.” Bonnie says her first private label buyer, “… purchased a single soap from my website anonymously, and then contacted me to become a vendor for Free People. As I was working at full capacity, I had to turn her down as I knew this would not be a small account. For three months she continued to contact me, encouraging me to create my products for them. Finally, I told her I could only do it at full retail, with their business name on the labels and my full contact info on the back of the packaging, as legally required. I really didn’t think they would go for that, but she jumped at the offer and asked to order three styles of soap, 750 bars of each. They purchased at $6.50 and sold the bars $15.99.”
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Private Label Manufacturing by DIANA GALE
How important is it to have a written contract, and what do you consider are the most important points to cover when dealing with contract manufacturing? “It is more important to establish professional business skills in regards to regulations, insurance, taxes, good manufacturing practices (GMP) and industry standard procedures than to be concerned with contracts for low volume buyers. Contracts for large corporate buyers are usually required, but most of the time they provide the necessary documentation. Be flexible and accommodating with smaller shops; fill orders to fit their needs rather than setting a minimum purchase amount. Be prepared to work within industry norms if you want to sell to the larger corporations; net 60 terms are standard.” Author’s note: Net 60 means that the buyer must pay the seller in full on or before 60 days from when the goods were dispatched by the seller (including weekends and holidays). What advice can you offer about setting up a manufacturing space? • “Invest in bigger and better production space and tools incrementally as your business grows. You will need a lot of space when you engage huge private label or wholesale accounts. As your income increases, you will be able to afford to grow. • Increase your profit and efficiency by purchasing supplies in massive quantities and start masterbatching.
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• Two of the most important elements of running a business efficiently are organization and meticulous record keeping. • Don’t spend your valuable and limited time developing exciting new designs and recipes all the time. Limit yourself to a few consistent formulations and this will save money by allowing you to purchase a less extensive ingredient list. I have been selling the same soaps for 40 years. Once you have a good seller, stick with that product! Making new things might be fun, but the “fun” business model is not consistent with high volume sales and great profit margins.” Lastly, Bonnie shares some valuable advice, “Learn how to run a successful business and take advantage of each opportunity to learn every aspect your craft. • Read books, attend classes and conferences and join professional and casual organizations dedicated to the craft; • Work for the advancement of the craft by honing your methods and techniques, and willingly mentoring the next generation of artisans; • Use SEO and online research to determine consumer demand, and provide a tailored product line. • Search the market for the finest ingredients available, and make something unique and original that is sure to thrill your customers!” Diana is owner of Star 9 Divine Beauty & Bath, LLC, and Star 9 Designs since 2014. She resides in Oregon with her husband John. Find Diana online at www.Star9Divine.com and Etsy.
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Masterbatching: Secrets to Success by BETH BYRNE
Like most soapmakers, I began my soapmaking odyssey with small, twopound batches. The batch yielded eight bars, more than enough to assuage my curiosity about adding this or that oil, additive or colorant and learning how manipulating a formula affected the final soap. I also tried various soapmaking methods because to me, the experimentation was half the fun. Perhaps your experience was similar. In time, I settled on a formula that offered the right lather, hardness and conditioning. It was now time to masterbatch. Soapmakers masterbatch in a couple of different ways. Some measure out the oils for a number of batches at one time in batch sized containers so that when they are ready, they can simply pull a container and begin. The advantage to this method is that they prepare the space, get the oils out, measure each one, put them away and clean up one time, rather than repeating the steps for each batch. It is a valuable time saver.
prior to the soapmaking session. This method also saves time in measuring and waiting for the mixture to cool and also allows for varied batch sizes. It is a time-saving technique for hobbyist and seller, alike.
With the second type of masterbatching, a large quantity of a chosen formula is melted, mixed and stored in a corresponding sized container. The proper amount is then weighed out just
This method is a time-saving method to prepare lye water ahead, as well. Mix the lye and water in large quantities and store it for future use to make bar soap. The soapmaker no longer waits
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[1]
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for oils and lye water to cool. If you like to make soap on a whim, this method is for you! Read on for more detail on masterbatching oils and lye water.
MASTERBATCH OILS It is easy to masterbatch soapmaking oils and a great time saver for makers who have a base formula and just alter any colors, additives and scent to personalize batches. First, choose the container to hold the oils. It could be a gallon jug or an industrial size melter. The unsure may find it less nerve wracking to experiment with the concept in a gallon jug before plunging into a bucket or larger. Choose the batch size in ounces or grams. Avoid pounds unless proficient in translating fractions of a pound into ounces. For example, 2.5 pounds does not mean two pounds, five ounces, it means two pounds, eight ounces because 0.5 equals one half pound. Large batchers will find pounds or kilos a manageable proposition. For illustration purposes, we will make ten pounds of base. Enter 160 ounces in an online calculator. Note the percentages of oils in your favorite formula and enter those oils and percentages in a soap calculator. Do not fill in the weight; that information will automatically populate. [1] In a large pot, measure out all hard oils and melt. Mix thoroughly and remove from heat. Weigh liquid oils, add them to the melted oils and mix well. Pour into the holding container. To avoid condensation, once the mixture is comfortably warm on the sides of the container, secure the top on the container. Alternately, if the pot is not large enough to mix all the oils, pour the hard oils into the holding MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
container after melting and stirring. Then, add liquid oils and stir well. It is not necessary to heat the liquid oils. Label the container with the formula and date. Store the oils in a convenient spot that requires as little lifting as possible.
MASTERBATCH LYE WATER IN A 50:50 SOLUTION It is easy to masterbatch lye water for bar soap. Decide how much lye water to make by the container size. A gallon is adequate for an infrequent soapmaker, a five-gallon bucket a suitable size for others, but a larger business will need a larger container or a number of pails. A polypropylene container, which is identified with a #5 recycling symbol is a safe container to store lye water in. Fill the bucket about 2/3 full with water as it sits on a tared scale and note the weight. Remove the container from the scale. Wear protective clothing, chemical glasses, gloves, full shoes, apron and a respirator mask. Be careful, because this is a very strong solution and the fumes are more intense than a smaller batch with a higher water percent. The sheer volume of lye water is larger and therefore, can do more damage than a small amount, so use extra caution. To the water, add the same weight of sodium hydroxide and stir until the mixture is clear. If the weight of the water is 64 ounces, add 64 ounces of sodium hydroxide. As with a smaller batch, the exothermic reaction that takes place will heat the lye water. The resulting mixture is quite hot and releases more fumes than a small container, so stay as far away from the solution as possible and make sure to protect skin. Once the fumes www.makingsoapmag.com • 20
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dissipate, cover the bucket tightly. A gamma lid is a good choice. They are available at home improvement stores, hardware stores or online. The lid screws off, so it is easier to handle than the lids that require a pail opener. Of course, this works with any size masterbatch that fits the scale of production. Keep the solution is tightly capped, so it will neither lose potency nor absorb moisture from the environment. Label the container clearly with “50:50 water:NaOH” and a warning sign. Store it in an accessible, yet safe place where it is unlikely to fall or be dropped. Of course, keep it out of way and reach of others, especially children and pets in the home. The minimum water amount to dissolve lye is 50:50. If that seems like living on the edge, try a 60:40 water to lye solution. Make it identically to the 50:50 solution. Some soapmakers feel more confident that all of the lye is dissolved at this rate.
MEASURE LYE WATER To measure 50:50 lye water, remember that the lye and water are present in equal amounts. Look at the amount of lye called for in the formula. Double the lye amount and weigh out that amount of lye water. In our sample, the MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
[2] formula calls for 22.66 ounces of lye, weigh out 45.32 ounces of lye water. That is 22.66 ounces of lye, plus 22.66 ounces of water. [2] Next, subtract the water already measured from the total amount of water called for. In our sample, the total water is 60.80 ounces, subtract the 22.66 ounces already measured from the 60.80 ounce total. Weigh and add the additional 38.14 ounces of water to reach the total called for. This works with any water discount, as well. www.makingsoapmag.com • 21
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Simply alter the extra water amount according to the discount.
MEASURE OILS
•
To measure oils, calculate a new batch in the same proportions as the master batch, except in the smaller batch size. If the masterbatch is calculated with 25% coconut, 10% cocoa butter, 30% lard and 30% olive oil and 5% castor, the smaller batch must be, also. Next, stir the masterbatch oils well. Weigh out the total oil amount of the batch. If the smaller batch is ten pounds, measure out ten pounds of masterbatch oils.
•
Proceed as with any batch. Simply pour the lye water into the oils and mix. Add scent and additives as normal.
TIPS AND WARNINGS • As the batch size increases, so does heating. A larger batch will heat and gel more quickly than a small one, so you may find it necessary to work faster. • Due to heating, it may take tinkering with the formula to get one that behaves well. Soapmakers sometimes find it necessary to increase slow moving oils, especially for multiple colors or designs. It is wise to scale up in increments to ensure satisfactory results. • Speaking of designs, carefully consider how much time they take. A simple in-the-pot, twocolor swirl is manageable in a large batch. A multi-colored, intricate technique takes more
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• •
time and a slow-moving formula. If the design is essential, count the time and price the soap accordingly. When it comes to molds, the news is good. Unlike the silicone-lined, ten-bar mold you paid $60 for, you could build or have built, a simple, wooden box mold that holds 23 pounds for the same or less than the smaller mold. A discarded drawer might even work. Simply line the mold with a trash bag as neatly as possible. Some wrinkling is inevitable, but consider it part of the handmade experience. As volume increases, so does weight and the challenge of handling it. It is worth the effort and money to purchase pot tippers, carts and other devices that reduce lifting. Follow safety procedures such as proper lifting. Consult this site for instructions: www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/adulthealth/multimedia/back-pain/sls-20076866 Employ Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) to establish Standard Operating Procedures (SOP), batch labeling and so on. Install spigots on buckets to avoid lifting and pouring. Cutters for commercial sized batches are available from businesses such as www.soapequipment.com.
After nearly 20 years making bath and body products, Beth has a great deal of knowledge and experience to share. She owns Soap and Garden and formerly served on the Board of Directors for the HSCG. She has been with Making Soap since 2005.
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Setting Up for Big Production in Small Spaces by CINDY NOVAK
Once you become addicted to making candles and soaps, it does not take long before you accumulate more than you can use in several years; so, you give samples to co-workers, friends and family. Of course they really love them, so they place orders for more and tell their friends about your great products. Then, you make products to sell at events and craft shows and sell even more. You then graduate into the working like crazy with orders to fill, stock to make for upcoming shows and not enough hours in the day phase. On top of that, you are still manufacturing in your cramped little kitchen where the family expects dinner every day. Does this sound familiar? I’ll bet it does! Know that you are not alone. I have not met many (actually, I don’t remember any) business people who have the luxury of all of the space they could possibly want to produce and sell. Even if you are not yet in your kitchen, but graduated to a studio, at times you need to produce a crazy amount of product in an area that is too small. Even so, small spaces can be an advantage, because it is easy to become overwhelmed if the work is spread out over large areas. Don’t worry - you’ve got this! Plan, plan, plan. Abraham Lincoln said, “Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe.” Chances are, you already dream about making candles or MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
soap at night, so plan the processes carefully before you execute. Run through the steps mentally, like a movie with you as the star. Review each process, take notes, refine and become more efficient each time the movie replays in your head. Focusing efforts and planning is powerful! Create a checklist of steps to complete, including the necessary supplies and equipment. Many products require similar tasks, such as wicking candle jars, weighing soap oils, mixing water and lye and so on. If you complete these tasks in batches ahead of production, it results in one less step to take and less room to complete that task in the future. [1] Organize supplies and materials. Do not buy more than you need or have room for, unless it is a rare, hard to get item. If necessary, repackage ingredients into more usable, space-saving containers. Create a designated storage space for each ingredient and label everything to save www.makingsoapmag.com • 23
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Setting Up for Big Production in Small Spaces by CINDY NOVAK
time searching through materials. Labeling machines are inexpensive, easy to use and save a lot of time. Labeled shelves and locations make you feel more organized and prevent ordering double or triple items because you cannot find what you already own. [2] Keep often-used items within reach or a few steps away. Pegboard or a wall storage system works well for frequently used tools, scissors, knives, heat guns, spoons, ladles, spatulas and such. Create a shelf for scents and store them in alphabetical order. Group dyes and colorants by like colors so it is easy to find what you need quickly or to gain inspiration from. Keep everything accessible and organized. Again, labeling helps. [3] Deciding which surfaces you need, including tables, drying racks, shelves and carts is an important part of planning and production. Design table surfaces at a suitable height for working and use risers under the leg, when necessary, to create a comfortable working height. Your back will thank you in the long run. We love using simple, lightweight food service carts and wire drying racks on wheels so that we can easily move finished goods out of the way and stage them for packaging or shelf stocking.
Set up individual spaces for different stages of production to avoid moving equipment or tools from place to place. For example, place wick candle jars inside cases in the materials storage area. Create a weigh station for measuring and weighing ingredients. Cool, cure or dry products on mobile carts or racks on wheels. Keep labels and packaging materials handy in one packing area to complete the final production stage.
MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
[2]
[3] www.makingsoapmag.com • 24
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Setting Up for Big Production in Small Spaces by CINDY NOVAK
[4]
[4] Finish and package current projects as soon as possible to avoid feeling overwhelmed and paralyzed, which comes from too much work in progress simultaneously. This clogs up the workspace and leads to inefficiency. Ideally, everything produced is sold and delivered right away; but realistically, set up another place to store finished products. Keep products organized and use that label machine again to label shelves and create a home for each item.
Watch out for clutter build-up and distractions. You know what I mean, those random stacks of super important stuff that you will get to someday, supplies not put away in the space you already designated, unpackaged/labeled products, work in progress or orders waiting for customer pickup or delivery. Get rid of anything you do not need, such as those goodie
MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
[5]
bag samples you collected and old or expired supplies. Remove anything in the workspace that is not directly related to work. Close the door if possible, to avoid distracting noise. [5] Finally, and very important, leave room for a cup of tea so you can relax and refocus when needed. When you are relaxed, you will enjoy the workspace, get more done and are less tempted to run out the door when things do not go as expected. If the workspace does not feel right, it is hard to get anything done. Get it right and your energy and creativity will follow and flow. Cindy Rumpf Novack is the owner of Candles and Supplies.com and found her passion making candles in third grade. She teaches classes and takes great pride in helping others learn, create and be successful at candle and soap making.
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UPC Codes and Wholesale by BILL McCONNELL One of my business goals is to sell a few unique soaps through wholesale channels. A year ago, I was presented with an opportunity to sell soap in a national, high-end boutique. The company placed orders and I shipped out products. However, I did not do my research to understand my obligations as a product wholesaler. I shipped my first wholesale shipment to the buyer; whom, upon receipt of the product, called me and asked me where the bar code was on the label. I naively told her that I thought the stores supplied it. It turns out that they do not. My product was returned and the business opportunity was lost. I learned the hard way that I needed to research and understand my obligations as a wholesale product provider before I stepped into that arena. It is the business owner’s responsibility to purchase bar codes and to maintain the information contained within the code. How does one do this? Consider the following information a
primer on how to purchase UPC barcodes and assign products and company information to them through the GS1 Global Standards website (www.gs1us.org). This is the first step to prepare for wholesale. Step 1: In order to create a bar code, you must register with the GS1 website and select a package of bar codes to purchase. These bar codes are essentially blank codes to which business owners assign information. The least expensive package of codes is a set of ten codes for $250 USD. Depending on the number of items a business plans to wholesale, packages can cost up to $10,500 USD [1]. After that, the business is billed an annual fee, depending on the service package. I currently wholesale fewer than ten products, so I paid an initial fee of $250 USD and an annual maintenance fee of $50 USD to maintain my barcodes.
[1]
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UPC Codes and Wholesale by BILL McCONNELL Step 2: After completing payment, you will receive an email with a link to register and create a password. This email will also contain a certificate with your company’s GS1 prefix, which allows a limited number of unique product barcodes [2]. Setting up membership is extremely important. It gives access to the member center and to the GS1 US Data Hub Product tool, to create the actual bar code.
Step 3: Now that you are ready to create a barcode, open the Data Hub Product Tool [3] from your member portal. It is the first tool listed. Once you log into the product tool, choose the product tab at the top. From the dropdown menu, select, “create.” If you are not sure how to create a bar code, click the purple, “Help Me Create a Bar Code” button. It will explain what to enter in each box.
Before assigning products a bar code through the Data Hub Product Tool, you should watch some of the professional development videos offered through the membership portal. GS1 offers certificate courses for purchase to make you an expert in the process. For now however, head to the quick links in the bottom left of the portal to find a Get Started Guide to help you make a correctly standardized UPC bar code.
For illustration purposes, in this field, I want create a bar code for Patchouli Soap. Under the product description, I add the name of the soap. Under the brand name, I insert the name of my business. I skip the SKU. For soap purposes, I use GENERAL as the Product Industry. Now, because every bar of my soap will contain a bar code on its label, I will select EACH from the packaging level, as every bar sold must be scanned at a point of
[2]
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UPC Codes and Wholesale by BILL McCONNELL
[3]
[4]
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UPC Codes and Wholesale by BILL McCONNELL sale system. If I were selling these by the case, I would have to make a separate bar code for that distinction. The EACH designation works for both in-store and online inventory scanning. At this point, click SAVE to view the assigned bar code. Once saved, either auto assign or manually assign the GTIN (Global Trade Item Number). This will come from the number of bar codes purchased in your membership. I use the auto assign function. Now, change the status from DRAFT to IN USE, to view the unique bar code in the system. Step 4: Near the top of the browser window, search for the phrase, “IN USE.” Next to it, locate the unique identifier of your item, along with its name [4]. Look at the tabs just beneath this information and select the BARCODE tab. Under this tab, make a few selections to finalize the bar code. Check the appropriate Application Area. Select General Retail/General Grocery (Cash register or Checkout). Select UPC-A as the bar code type. This is the standard retail bar code for items checked out at a point-of-sale system. Finally,
MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
choose the size of the bar code. The TARGET size should work for most labels and graphic design software. At this point, download it and have a graphics expert insert it correctly into a custom label design. Do it yourself if you design your own labels. Final thoughts: Although this is a simplified account of bar code creation, and it will get you started, be sure to follow industry standards when creating and using bar codes. This means accurately print bar codes on a white background, correctly size them on the product and verify that they work before shipping product. With this information, you will have more success on your first foray into the world of product wholesale than I did. Bill McConnell is the owner and soap maker of the successful brick and mortar store Whole life Soaps in Wrightwood, California.
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TECH TA LK
Important Digital Trends for Business in 2019
The digital world evolves constantly with new technologies, updates and improvements, so it can be easy to lose track. With so many changes on all the popular platforms, it is difficult to know where to focus efforts and what to do differently from one year to another.
by RUTH ROMANO
It is no surprise that Google will continue to dominate the results that businesses get from search engine marketing, so making Google a top priority in marketing is still a good idea. As usual, Google introduced changes in 2018 and many more will be deployed in 2019. It is sometimes difficult to keep up with all the changes and stay ahead of the game, so here are key changes to consider.
What do you need to consider this year and what are the implications for the right digital marketing strategy?
SEARCH MARKETING TRENDS
If you advertise with Google, you will already know that its advertising platform was rebranded in 2018 from AdWords to Ads with the aim to simplify advertising. Although Google Ads is a great platform to get your business seen in the search engine, the interface is MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
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TECH TA LK
Important Digital Trends for Business in 2019 by RUTH ROMANO
not very user friendly, so I hope that they make improvements going forward. In the meantime, useful webinars can guide you through the changes and set you up on the right track for Google Ads. A Google search should present a few options. In terms of organic search, it is important to note that Google introduced an update late last year to penalize slower sites. According to Google1, most sites lose half their visitors while loading, so it is well worth the effort to make use of their free site speed tool to check if you can make any improvements so the site is not penalized. The average load speed for the beauty and personal care Industry is four seconds, and every second counts for visitors. A few seconds here and there might seem unimportant, but think about how many times you lost interest in a slow website and took your search elsewhere. A few second’s improvement in site loading can bring big gains in terms of visitor numbers. Another issue that is now relatively old news is mobile friendly sites; still it is surprising how many websites do not work on mobile. This will result in losing customers. The increased use of voice search will have a huge impact on Search Engine Optimization (SEO) as we know it. Twenty percent of mobile queries on Google are voice searches2. It is important for companies to rethink their digital marketing strategies going forward to incorporate voice search. While many consumers are using this technology to find a restaurant or listen to the latest music, brands are starting to notice that this presents an advertising opportunity. It is expected that soon shoppers will buy products simply by using their voices.
MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
Another new type of search is Visual Search. Users can upload an image and get specific results. Google Lens is a visual search engine that recognizes objects and landmarks through a camera. With further development in this area, we can soon take a photo of a product to find out where to buy it online and then search for similar products. This will bring a whole new dimension to shopping.
SOCIAL MEDIA TRENDS It might seem obvious, but it is important to consider social media in terms of where your target market hangs out. It is vital to know where your customers are to focus marketing efforts and deliver the right message at the right time and in the right place. Research shows that the biggest groups of users on Facebook are the 55 and over age group3. Facebook’s reach has declined for younger audiences; in fact, many of them do not even have a Facebook account. Instagram, on the other hand, increased in use in all age groups and is expected to continue to do so, although the largest audience is the 25 to 34 age group. Snapchat is generally associated with teenagers, but this is not the case as the 25 to 34 age group uses it the most. Without doubt, social media use changed from one age group to another. This information is important to consider in marketing strategy, because what worked last year may not necessarily work this year. A good digital marketing plan needs to adapt. Businesses cannot expect to achieve the same results by doing the same thing year after year.
INFLUENCER MARKETING This is an effective form of marketing for any brand and is worth its weight in gold. Influencer www.makingsoapmag.com • 31
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Important Digital Trends for Business in 2019 by RUTH ROMANO
marketing is very much like word-of-mouth marketing, for example, where a friend tells you the benefits of a recent purchase. “You must try this cream; it has made me look ten years younger.” Instead, an “influencer,” such as a blogger or a celebrity communicates the benefits of various products to their community. It can be a very powerful form of marketing and enables a brand to build a following. An explosion of influencer marketing agencies recently entered the market. It might be easier to work with them as they are all under the same roof; however, agencies are expensive. You can choose to approach influencers directly, but bear in mind that you are unlikely to receive a response from the likes of Madonna! On the other hand, you can draw up a shortlist of bloggers who operate in your market and get in touch to find out if you can work together.
References 1
https://testmysite.withgoogle.com/intl/en-gb
2
https://www.singlegrain.com/digitalmarketing/11-digital-marketing-trends-you-canno-longer-ignore-in-2018/
3
https://www.smartinsights.com/managing-digitalmarketing/marketing-innovation/businesscritical-digital-marketing-trends
Ruth owns an award-winning soap business based in the UK www.ruthromano.com/ and runs regular soap making classes, teaches a cosmetics business course and provides a business consultancy service. Ruth is an experienced marketing professional and a Huffington Post blogger www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/author/ruth-romano
CONCLUSION This year will see improvements for customers and plenty of opportunities for businesses to communicate with them. It is simply the will to embrace change, adapt to new technologies and trends and selecting the best way to reach customers that results in success.
MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
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I N THE LA B
Chi Chirapsia by NIKI SENIOR
In 1997, I graduated as a complementary therapist in many holistic health modalities. From Reflexology and Crystal Therapy to Hot Stones Massage and Reiki, I have undertaken many diploma level training courses over the past twenty years and eventually became a lecturer and taught therapy in further education establishments. My greatest achievement was in 2016, when I graduated as a Master Herbalist. I have always had a thirst for knowledge; so just a few months ago, when I had the opportunity to meet Jenny Dawe and train with her, I eagerly jumped at it. Jenny had traveled up to Norfolk, where I live, from Surrey to train me in gua sha chirapsia. I initially booked the one-to-one training course with Jenny back in February 2018 as I knew she was here in the UK for just eight months before she planned to return to her native Thailand. I am happy to report that I graduated as a Gua Sha Chirapsia Master Practitioner. I am an advocate of everything organic and natural, and being the Founder of Norfolk Organics, this ethos extends to my skincare, wellbeing ranges and my Ritual Beauty products. We cannot defy the aging process completely, but I could never envisage pumping my skin with Botox to eradicate fine laugh lines, either. Botox is a heavy toxic substance, otherwise known as Botulinum Toxin Type A, the very bacteria that causes botulism! Why would any sane person want this chemical in their blood? I certainly would not wish to cause paralysis to any muscle in my body, especially my face, when a 100 percent organic and pure way of looking and feeling good exists, gua sha chirapsia.
WHAT IS GUA SHA? Jenny told me that a rough translation of gua sha to English is, “scraping away illness.” Gua sha MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
has its origins in traditional Chinese medicine and includes moving the skin with a Gua sha tool made of stone or rock, crystal, bone, or horn. Ancient people used such tools to treat a variety of conditions. Although it employs some massage techniques, its focus is to directly increase blood flow beneath the surface of the skin to repair and restore vitality. Stimulating circulation in such an non-invasive way can lead to a number of noticeable, healing effects in the body, including anti-inflammatory and immune boosting effects, which last for a number of days and counteracts symptoms and diseases. Many scientific studies in relation to gua sha prove it to dramatically increase blood flow in the soft tissues under the skin because it encourages cells to create heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1). A potent cytoprotectant and antioxidant, HO-1 also fights inflammation. www.makingsoapmag.com • 33
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Chi Chirapsia by NIKI SENIOR
Summary of Benefits: • Prevents fine lines and crow’s feet • Prevents forehead creases • Reduces eye stress, puffiness and dark circles • Reduces black heads and blocked pores • Prevents lip wrinkle formation • Tightens a saggy jaw and neckline • Evens out skin pigmentation • Lifts and tones face and neck • Detoxes the facial muscles, easing tension • Leaves skin looking younger and more radiant
IMPORTANT GUA SHA ROUTINE INFORMATION NORFOLK ORGANICS GUA SHA CHIRAPSIA The tools I use and retail in my store are ethically sourced and produced, made from a variety of crystals from Bali. My gua sha tools can be used on the body, but I primarily sell them for facial uplifting purposes. Because of their ability to move circulation, when used on the face they help treat systemic toxicity, poor circulation, wrinkles, facial lines, physical and emotional stress and migraine. Many call gua sha chirapsia the “Eastern Facelift” for its ability to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, plump, tighten and rejuvenate skin and even decrease dark under eye circles and puffiness, which is what my customers want to achieve. I personally love using these natural crystal facial uplift tools because they promote the flow of Qi energy, oxidization and nourishment of cells for younger, fresher looking skin, something to which we all aspire. MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
Firstly, I cannot stress enough not to drag the facial skin when using the tool on your face. The best chirapsia technique is almost an acupressure movement, pressing and lifting as you move through the full facial routine. Be gentle and avoid the delicate eye area entirely (the super-soft part of the eye sockets). The tool should not be used over the thyroid area at the top of your throat. Build up to a full routine. Initially, just a twominute routine will suffice until you become comfortable and confident using the gua sha. You can use the tool “dry,” but I recommend that you apply a couple of drops of organic serum onto a freshly washed face to offer a smooth application and to allow the crystal to glide across the skin rather than to drag it. I use my gua sha chirapsia with one of my organic facial Serum Supremes with Sea Buckthorn and Vitamin E for total vitality and facial enhancement. You may choose your own serum.
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Chi Chirapsia by NIKI SENIOR
THE SIX FACIAL ZONES: 1. Upper forehead 2. Lower forehead, 3. Zygomatic (cheeks) 4. Labial (lips) 5. Chin 6. Jawline
BASIC BEGINNER TECHNIQUE • From the middle of the chin zone, move the gua sha tool up to the ear on both sides of the face. Use one smooth movement up to each ear. Do this five times each side. • Move the tool to the side of the nose and scoop outwards under the cheekbone on either side of the face. Do this five times each side. This movement helps drain sinus congestion. • Move the tool slightly up to the top of the nose and move the tool under the eye gently towards the temples. Do this three times on each side. • Moving to the forehead and starting on the centre, move outwards five times on each side. • Staying on the forehead, move the tool
MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
all the way across the forehead in one movement. Do this three times. • On the forehead, once again to relieve the pressure of tension headaches, move the tool up and down vertically to the eyebrows. Do this five times. • Repeat the full technique again another two times. Gua sha massage can banish a saggy jawline over time. Even if you do the technique a couple of times a week, after a few weeks you will notice a visibly firmer jawline.
POST-CHIRAPSIA Your face should start to show erythema, a redness that demonstrates congestion is being removed. Studies show that self gua sha chirapsia technique boosts circulation by 400 percent. Undertake it as a daily skin care ritual, and you should see the results in as little as five days! Niki Senior – Master Herbalist & Founder & Formulator at www.norfolkorganics.co.uk
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Oil Infusion Basics by CINDY LANTIER
Makers infuse oils for one of two purposes: To impart the qualities of the chosen herbs to the oil or to provide color. People then use the infusions in a variety of ways. I make butters, balms and salves and occasionally use them to color soap. In addition, makers employ two main methods to create an oil infusion. One way is to use the heat from natural sunlight to infuse the oils. This takes four to eight weeks, and is sometimes called solar infusion or cold infusion. The other way is to use a slow cooker to speed up the process. This generally takes four to eight hours, and is called a heat infusion. We will walk through the heat infusion method in detail, then compare and contrast it to the cold infusion method. But first, let’s discuss basic information. JARS – I use store-bought jars, but feel free to recycle. The only caveat in reusing jars is to ensure that they are absolutely clean and dry so as not to introduce moisture or foreign matter into the infusion, which could contaminate it. Note: Light-screening jars, such as amber jars, are not only unnecessary, they may hinder cold infusions. They are good to store finished infusions, however. HERBS – For simplicity, I use the word “herb” most of the time to refer to anything of a vegetable nature when it comes to infusing. The fact is, it is possible to infuse practically any herb, plant matter, or pure spice in oil. Nevertheless, consider what you wish to accomplish before you choose a specific herb. For example, are you trying to create an oil to color soap? Then choose an herb that will impart color into the oil, like the paprika we are using. If you wish to create a healing salve, look at MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
herbs with healing properties, such as arnica or calendula, which I chose for this article. Most people, including me, prefer dried herbs and plant matter over fresh. In fact, some herbalists frown on infusing fresh herbs, yet others infuse them successfully. To process fresh plant matter, make sure that it is clean and completely dry to prevent smelly, moldy infusions. If you have access to a fresh herb and you want to infuse it, but are leery of using it fresh, dry it in the oven on low heat or in a dehydrator. OILS – A wide variety of oils for infusion are available. One thing to be aware of is the oil’s shelf life. Unless you plan on using the oil right away, choose one with a long shelf life. I like classic olive for soap and sweet almond oil for a butter, balm, or salve. Also, a light colored oil is essential to create the desired colorant for soap. If you use olive oil, select one that does not have a green tint, as that will influence the final color. Some common infusing oils are olive oil, sweet almond oil, high oleic sunflower oil and castor oil. To create something special, try jojoba oil. Add Vitamin E or ROE (Rosemary Oleoresin Extract) to the infused oil to help prevent rancidity. For Vitamin E, I use between 1-2%, but the amount of ROE will depend on its carnosic acid content. Consult the supplier for the recommended percentage. After lots of trial and error and a little research, I finally standardized my formula for oil infusions. Regardless of whether I am making cold or hot infusion, I use one part herb/plant/spice to 15 parts of oil, or 1:15. Basically, out of 16 ounces, one ounce is plant material and the rest is oil. That is easy to remember, so I save the step of looking up the ratio. www.makingsoapmag.com • 36
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[1]
[2]
1. For each jar, label the lid with masking tape and a permanent maker. Be sure to list the herb, the carrier oil and the date. Also list the method of infusion. INGREDIENTS: • • • • •
Calendula petals Ground paprika Sweet almond oil Classic olive oil Vitamin E
SUPPLIES: • • • • • • • • • • •
2 mason jars, with lids Container to strain oil into Slow cooker Spoon Scale Masking tape Permanent marker Wide mouth canning funnel Coffee filters Fine mesh kitchen strainer Cheesecloth
MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
2. For one jar, remove the lid and place the jar on the scale. After the weight registers, tare the scale to weigh only the herb and the oil. 3. Add one ounce desired herb and tare the scale. [1] 4. Weigh out 15 ounces oil. 5. Stir light herbal parts, such as petals into the oil. [2] 6. Add the jars to the slow cooker and add water to fill the cooker to about three quarters full. [3] 7. Heat on medium for four to six hours, then turn off and let sit until jars are cool to the touch. I usually let mine sit until the next day. 8. Remove jars from cool water and dry them thoroughly to avoid introducing water to the infusion. 9. Strain herbs and discard. I usually wait until I am ready to use my oils to strain them. If you www.makingsoapmag.com • 37
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[3]
[4]
wish to do the same, allow time for complete straining before proceeding with the project, because it will take a while! 10. To strain, place a wide mouth canning funnel into the jar, line it with a coffee filter and place a fine mesh kitchen strainer inside. Pour the infused oil through the strainer to catch the big particles, then let it strain through the coffee filter. Refill as necessary. [4] Gather the herbal material in cheesecloth and squeeze all the infused oily goodness. Finally, discard the spent herbs. The cold infusion method is exactly the same except, instead of a slow cooker to infuse quickly, take advantage of free sunlight to infuse slowly in jars. I used to place my jars in the windowsill. Since I moved, I just leave them on the counter since I do not have a windowsill at my kitchen window. You may place them in or near a window. About once each week, gently shake the jar to mix everything up. When the infusion is ready, usually in four to six weeks, follow the steps to strain them into a clean jar.
MAKING SOAP COSMETICS & CANDLES
The exception is a finely powdered herb, such as paprika. I strain those when near the bottom of the jar. I hope you will give oil infusion a try! Let us know how you like it and how you used it. Cindy Jones Lantier, of The Eclectic Soul and Soap’s On! is an experienced soap maker and educator. She loves creating products, teaching, and connecting with her customers & students. Cindy will soon be launching a website dedicated to soapmaking education.
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COMING NEXT ISSUE DesignMania is Coming! Watch for detailed tutorials on these designs: Woodgrain Pencil Line with Plant Infusions Kiss Pour
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