Travel | Sabang Š Yunaidi Joepoet;
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The Sabang Bay is poised to become the International Marine Tourism Port as the Sail Sabang 2017 event takes place. Colours visits Sabang and the islands surrounding Indonesia’s westernmost region, home to pristine destinations that remain largely hidden and untouched by visitors. Words by Fatris MF
Travel | Sabang
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Travel | Sabang
© Yunaidi Joepoet;
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It was a hot afternoon in the middle of May when I reached Sabang, a city on Pulau Weh, popular for being the first word in an Indonesian national song that describes the thousands of islands making up the archipelago, from here on the western edge to more than 5,200km away at the easternmost edges of Papua. Pulau Weh – an island flanked by the Indian Ocean, the Malacca Strait and the Andaman Sea – is located closer to Thailand, Singapore and Malaysia than Jakarta. Fittingly, Weh means ‘separated’ in the local dialect. “Imagine, this city has a population of just 30,000 people,” said my guide, Solpa Puji Harsagi, as he unfolded stories of his home and told me what a great city it is to live in. Solpa introduced me to Muhammad, a tall young Sabang native who did not speak much but was generous with his laughter. Together, we left Balohan Port. “I haven’t been here for three years, and yet it feels like everyone knows me,” Solpa joked in the car. Muhammad sat patiently behind the wheel as we cruised along quiet winding roads, where monkeys from up the hills could occasionally be seen, past white sandy beaches and along Sabang Bay where the
water shimmered in tones of blue as far as the eye could see.
coral, you don’t even need to get wet, such is the clarity of the ocean here.
In historical records of Indonesia’s colonial era, Nanggroe Aceh was highlighted as the region that the Dutch found most difficult to conquer, which moved them to send the Arabicspeaking Dutch scholar Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje there. His knowledge of Islamic culture helped them to look for weak spots to be able to penetrate the region’s defences.
In one of the sites we visited (a quiet bay between Krueng Raya and Iboih), I found myself captivated by air bubbles fizzing from the ocean floor. These geothermal bubbles rise out of tiny gaps on the sea bed, bringing with them hints of sulphur and making the water feel a little warmer on the skin.
Today, the war is part of the diverse history of the region, and modern life in Aceh goes on in peace, as peaceful as it is under the waters of the Batee Tokong (Central Rock). Colourful fish, coral reefs, sea turtles, jellyfish and myriad other creatures make up this giant aquarium, thriving in the crystal-clear waters around Pulau Weh, which has long been popular with snorkellers, scuba divers and kayakers. In fact, to see many fish and
“There is a volcano at the bottom of the sea in the Pria Laot area,” says Anwar, captain of the boat we were on. “Its peak can be seen nearby above the water.” Anwar was taking me to several dive sites from Gapang to Batee Karang. “What do you think? Is it beautiful!?” he asked, but there was no need for an answer. I asked Anwar about efforts by local residents to keep their waters safe.
© Yunaidi Joepoet; ©Nyimas Laula
Travel | Sabang
Here we have a system called the Panglima Laot (Commanders of the Sea). Each region along the coast of Aceh has one. The Panglima Laot is in charge of making sure no one causes damage to the sea. 1 A traveller enjoying Iboih beach with a view of Rubiah Island. 2 Muhammad Abdul Gani, a Panglima Laot for Iboih, who is responsible for one-fifth of the waters of Weh Island. 3 The Pria Laot waterfall, one of the best waterfalls to visit on Weh Island.
“Here we have a system called the Panglima Laot (Commanders of the Sea). Each region along the coast of Aceh has one. The Panglima Laot is in charge of making sure no one causes damage to the sea. This system has been around for a long time,” Anwar answered, as the western wind began blowing our way, rocking our boat. After exchanging stories with Anwar, I met with Muhammad Abdul Gani, the Panglima Laot for the Iboih region. It is a large region to handle, about one-fifth of Weh’s waters, and all of it is Abdul’s responsibility. The 40-year-old shared his knowledge about the communal efforts being made to keep the marine ecosystem safe from dynamite fishing and other harmful activities. One of the unexpected pleasures of exploring Sabang is that nothing is too far away. From the underwater volcano, our next stop was the top of Gunong Jaboi, where smoke and the smell of sulphur filled the air. In a single day, I strolled along the charming Pantai Sumur Tiga (Sumur Tiga beach); visited the Pria Laot waterfall, which is surrounded by tropical trees and chirping birds; sat and watched boats criss-crossing along Aneuk Laot Lake, a quiet body of water surrounded by lush hills; and dived off Pulau Rubiah! Really, I could have spent the many days at any location soaking up the atmosphere, but it also makes this area perfect for a long weekend filled with variety.
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One afternoon, as I was passing time at Anoi Itam – a resort located at the edge of the Kampong Anoi Itam cliff southeast of Sabang – I noticed Mt Seulawah in the distance, and the island of Sumatra outlined softly beyond the fog. Solpa, still with me as my guide, approached with a map, and I pointed to an island not too far away. “How do I get here?” I asked. He stared at the area I was referring to, the Pulo Aceh islands in the Aceh Besar district, located at Indonesia’s westernmost tip. “We will need patience to go there. Not a lot of tourists go there, especially now that it’s the western monsoon season. The waves are big,” Solpa said with some gravitas. The wind and the waves were at their strongest this time of the year, but it only added to my sense of adventure. There are no boats to Pulo Aceh from Sabang, given the few tourists who seek to explore the area; yet as I pondered my options, a solution presented itself in the form of a man named Fauzi Umar, business investment development director for Sabang’s Regional Business Bureau (BPKS). I met with Fauzi early in the morning, and headed out in raging waters as part of a local police patrol boat. 2
5 Senses – Taste SEAFOOD NOODLES Get a taste of the variety of noodles Sabang has to offer. As a coastal city, seafood is the region’s forte. Head to Mi Sedap, one of the ‘must try’ local food stalls, where noodle dishes are served with a variety of seafood from around Sabang. Sebagai kawasan pesisir, menu makanan di sini berkutat seputar makanan laut. Mi Sedap, merupakan salah satu warung dengan santapan yang layak dicoba yaitu Mi yang dihidangkan dengan variasi seafood yang berasal dari penjuru Kota Sabang.
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Travel | Sabang
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1 The imam, chief of Maulingge village.
Just a few metres clear from the calm of the port, the west monsoon wind greeted us. The waves seemed to knock on every side of our boat, and we spent nearly two hours bobbing up and down before finally docking on Pulau Breueh, part of the Pulo Aceh islands. I walked to the nearby hills, and within an hour, by the edge of ragged cliffs, I came upon the 85m-high Williams Torrent lighthouse, built in 1875, which still functions today.
go to the sea during the west monsoon season,” said Dahlan Wahab, a man who serves as an imam for three local villages.
“Sabang is very close to the Malacca Straits, the busiest sea transportation track. On December 2, 2017, Sabang Bay will be the transit and embarkation site for cruise ships and yachts sailing the Malacca Straits from Europe to Australia or vice versa. The President will perform the inauguration,” said Fauzi, out of breath from the hiking and sunny weather.
Almost half a century before Indonesia claimed independence, Sabang had its first film theatre built, the Rex Bioscoop. According to the Sabang Heritage Society’s Historical Data and Analysis, the theatre, built in the early 1900s, would screen movies every day, including children’s movies. Today, the theatre no longer exists.
Later, Fauzi took me on a trail bike ride to Gampong Maulingge, where the locals live modest lives. “Around February to May, people work in the fields. Not a lot of people
A variety of maritime activities will take place at Sail Sabang 2017, from November 28 until December 5.
Mesmerising sunrise at Sumur Tiga beach.
Back in Sabang, big waves crashed onto the cliffs of Anoi Itam, and I’d recommend waiting for the end of the monsoon for your own visit! As the day ended, fishermen returned to land, and Sabang was surrounded with quietness and tranquillity.
But, to look for a movie theatre or a night club would be to miss the point of Pulau Weh. The region’s endless beaches, its cliffs and its sea life remain treasures worth seeking out and preserving. A variety of maritime activities will take place at Sail Sabang 2017, from November 28 until December 5, The range of events will allow residents and travellers alike to fully enjoy and experience the picture-perfect oceans and beaches of Sabang.
© Yunaidi Joepoet; ©Nyimas Laula
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© Yunaidi Joepoet; ©Nyimas Laula
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Pulau Weh diapit oleh Samudera Hindia, Selat Malaka, dan Laut Andaman yang terhampar lapang di utaranya. 2
1 Tourists documenting the beauty of Sabang Bay.
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2 Fishermen from Maulingge village, Indonesia’s westernmost village, hunting for their catch of the day.
5 Senses – Touch WALKING ON THE BEACH
Saya tiba di Sabang pada satu sore yang terik di bulan Mei. Sabang adalah sebuah kota di Pulau Weh, pulau di utara Sumatera yang selama ini diingat dalam nyanyian tentang barisan pulau-pulau di Indonesia, dari sini berjajar gugusan pulau sepanjang lebih dari 5.200 km hingga ke ujung timur di Papua. Pulau Weh diapit oleh Samudera Hindia, Selat Malaka, dan Laut Andaman yang terhampar lapang di utaranya. Dari Sabang, Thailand, Singapura dan Malaysia, lebih dekat dijangkau ketimbang dari Jakarta. Inilah daerah yang terpental jauh di jejeran paling barat Indonesia, sesuai dengan namanya, Weh, dalam bahasa setempat berarti ‘terpisah’. “Bayangkan, penduduk kota ini cuma 30 ribu jiwa,” Solpa Puji Harsagi mencoba meyakinkan saya akan betapa menyenangkannya kota tempat ia hidup. Dan, ia akan mengajak saya berjalan mengitari Sabang, kota yang terletak di garis paling barat Indonesia ini. Solpa mengenalkan saya dengan Muhammad, pemuda Sabang bertubuh jangkung yang tidak banyak bicara dan begitu mudah tertawa. Mereka kemudian membawa saya meninggalkan Pelabuhan Balohan. “Saya belum sampai tiga tahun di sini, dan rasanya hampir tiap orang mengenal saya,” Solpa mulai bergurau dalam mobil. Mobil yang disetiri Muhammad terus meluncur membelah jalan berliku yang sepi, kera yang turun
dari perbukitan, pantai-pantai berpasir putih, rapat pepohonan, dan Teluk Sabang menghampar biru seluas mata memandang dengan bukit-bukit hijau. Bumi Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam memiliki sejarah pergolakan yang panjang. Dalam catatan sejarah penjajahan, Nanggroe Aceh ditulis sebagai daerah di Indonesia yang paling susah ditaklukkan Belanda. Dan atas segala alasan rumit ini pula, Snouck Hurgronje dikirim untuk mencari pada titik mana Aceh bisa ditaklukkan. Akan tetapi, perang yang panjang telah lama usai. Dan Aceh telah hidup dalam damai, sedamai alam bawah laut Batee Tokong yang kini saya selami. Dasar laut yang jauh lebih hening dan menenangkan dari pada daratan, tentu saja. Ikan-ikan warna-warni, terumbu karang, penyu, ubur-ubur, semua bagai ekosistem dalam akuarium raksasa bening yang mudah dilihat. Di satu lokasi penyelaman (teluk antara Krueng Raya dan Iboih), saya terkesima oleh
Getting to know the people in Indonesia’s charming westernmost villages will restore your appreciation of life. Walking along the glorious, empty beaches is almost a spiritual experience. Learn more about how locals are keeping their marine ecosystem safe as you meet different people on quiet strolls around their neighbourhood. Merasakan denyut kehidupan di kampung-kampung paling barat Indonesia ini membuat gairah hidup meningkat. Berjalan di pantai-pantai kosong dengan hamparan pasir, seperti merasakan denyut spiritual dalam diri. Sembari merasakan kesunyian dan kesahajaan kampung- kampung ini, dengarkan cerita dari Panglimapanglima Laot tentang cara mereka menjaga ekosistem laut Sabang.
Travel | Sabang 1 A tourist documenting the beauty of Breueh Island with the Andaman Sea as the backdrop from the top of the Williams Torrent lighthouse.
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2 Climbing up hundreds of steps to get to the top of the old Dutch-era lighthouse. 3 The fresh face of the Williams Torrent lighthouse after a renovation. It was first built in 1875.
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Memandang laut dan perbukitan berlapis-lapis dari ketinggian 85 meter di Mercusuar Williams Torret merupakan hal yang tak terlupakan.
gelembung-gelembung udara yang menyembur dari dasar laut. Baru kali ini saya melihat panas bumi keluar lewat celah di dasar laut, beraroma belerang, membuat air laut terasa hangat di tubuh. “Ini gunung api bawah laut di daerah Pria Laot,” kata Anwar, kapten perahu kami, kemudian. “Puncaknya di gunung api, dekat dari sini,” kata Anwar lagi. Anwar, kapten boat yang mengantar saya ke titik-titik penyelaman di Gapang hingga ke Batee Karang. “Bagaimana? Cantik? Laut di sini terjaga,” kata Anwar lagi. Pulau-pulau yang jauh terserak di barat Indonesia, bagaimana menjaga lautan dari para perusak? “Di sini, kami telah memiliki sistem seperti Panglima Laot. Masing masing daerah pesisiran di Aceh memilikinya. Panglima Laot inilah sebagai pemimpin yang menjaga supaya tidak ada yang merusak laut. Sistem seperti ini telah dibuat sejak dulu,” Anwar mulai bercerita dan angin barat datang kencang, membuat boat kami bergoyang. Lepas bercerita dengan Anwar, saya berjumpa dengan Muhammad Abdul Gani,
Panglima Laot (laut) wilayah Iboih. Wilayah yang cukup luas, yaitu seperlima kawasan laut Pulau Weh ada di tangan Abdul. Lelaki 40 tahun itu lalu bercerita bagaimana melindungi ekosistem laut dari bom ikan dan berbagai perusakan. Tidak ada yang jauh di Sabang, memang. Dari vulkanis bawah laut, saya kemudian mendaki puncak Gunong Jaboi yang berasap dan beraroma belerang. Betapa, gunung vulkanis ini masih mengeluarkan asap dan lava. Di hari berikutnya, saya menyisiri pantai berpasir putih yang panjang di Pantai Sumur Tiga, menghirup sejuknya air terjun Pria Laot yang dikelilingi oleh rampak pohon hutan tropis dan nyanyian burung-burung, duduk di pinggir Danau Aneuk Laot yang seperti sepotong lautan tenang dipagari perbukitan hijau dengan perahu-perahu melintasi danau, lalu menyelam di pinggir Pulau Rubiah. Satu senja, saya termangu di bale-bale Anoi Itam, sebuah resor yang terletak di pinggir tebing Kampong Anoi Itam, tenggara Kota Sabang. Dari kejauhan saya melihat Gunung Seulawah, Pulau Sumatera terhampar—anggun dan
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samar oleh kabut. Solpa datang, dan memberi saya sebuah peta. “Bagaimana cara ke sini?” kata saya kepada Solpa sembari menunjuk satu titik pada peta. Ditatapnya terus pulau yang saya tunjuk. Jejeran Pulo Aceh, Kabupaten Aceh Besar, pulau-pulau yang terletak paling barat Indonesia. “Kita mesti bersabar kalau hendak ke sana. Itu pulau yang jarang sekali wisatawan mau ke sana. Apalagi sekarang sedang musim barat. Ombak besar,” kata Solpa. Angin dan gelombang sedang bergelora bagai pendekar mabuk di tengah lautan. Tapi, entah mengapa, semakin kencang angin, makin bertepuk ombak di lautan, kian kuat keinginan saya untuk ke Pulo Aceh. Dari Sabang, tidak ada perahu ke sana. Lagi pula, seperti kata Solpa, sekarang sedang musim ombak. Di tengah kebimbangan, seorang juru selamat hadir. Namanya Fauzi Umar, Direktur Pengembangan Usaha Investasi Badan Pengusahaan Kawasan Sabang (BPKS). Pagi-pagi sekali, saya telah hadir di pelabuhan yang dijanjikan Fauzi. Lelaki paruh baya ini akan berangkat bersama saya melintasi musim barat dengan boat patroli polisi.
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© Yunaidi Joepoet; ©Nyimas Laula
Travel | Sabang
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1 A typical boat used by fishermen in Aceh with a pointed front and a square back. 2 Enjoying the view from the Japanese fort in Anoi Itam.
Di Anoi Itam, ombak memerciki tebing tiap saat. Nelayan yang pulang melaut, dan kegelapan mulai datang menyelimuti Sabang. Baru sejengkal boat patroli ini meninggalkan pelabuhan, musim barat mulai menampakkan wujud. Ombak mengempas, menggedor-gedor dinding boat. Hampir dua jam saya terombang ambing, kapal patroli ini merapat di Pulau Breuh, bagian dari jejeran kepulauan Pulo Aceh. Saya berjalan menuju puncak perbukitan. Tak sampai satu jam berjalan, saya dihadapkan pada sebuah bangunan raksasa menjulang setinggi 85 meter yang terletak di tubir tebing curam. Mercusuar Williams Torrent yang dibangun sejak tahun 1875 dan hingga kini masih berfungsi. “Sabang begitu dekat dengan Selat Malaka, jalur transportasi laut tersibuk. Teluk Sabang pada Desember 2, 2017 ini akan menjadi tempat transit dan embarkasi kapal cruise dan kapal yacht yang lalu lalang di Selat Malaka dari Eropa menuju Australia atau
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sebaliknya. Bapak Presiden yang akan meresmikannya,” kata Fauzi dengan napas terengah-engah oleh pendakian dan cuaca yang terik. Sekali lagi, sunyi datang menyergap. Fauzi membiarkan saya menaiki motor trail menuju desa terbarat, Gampong Maulingge. “Bila dari Februari hingga Mei, orang-orang ke kebun. Jarang kami yang melaut pada musim barat begini,” kata Dahlan Wahab. Lelaki tua di depan saya ini adalah seorang Imam Mukim (pimpinan agama yang meliputi tiga kampung). Orang-orang di Maulingge hidup dalam kesahajaan. Bila musim ombak, mereka akan menggerus tanah pertanian dan perkebunan. Bila musim timur datang, mereka akan ke laut. Saya kembali ke Sabang. Di Anoi Itam, ombak memerciki tebing tiap saat. Nelayan
5 Senses – Sight SUNSET AND HISTORY Staring at the sea and hills from the Williams Torrent lighthouse gives one a sense of calm from 85m above ground. Similarly, watching the sun rise and set from the many beautiful beaches of Weh is a treat for the eyes, especially if you venture to locations such as old caves and Japanese bunkers. Memandang laut dan perbukitan berlapis-lapis dari ketinggian 85 meter di Mercusuar Williams Torrent merupakan hal yang tak terlupakan. Sebagaimana menyaksikan matahari terbit dan tenggelam di pantai-pantai berpasir putih yang tersebar di penjuru pantai Pulau Weh atau dari tempat yang berbeda seperti di kawasan gua dan bungker Jepang.
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Geothermal bubbles spurting from the bottom of the sea at one of the diving points around Weh, not too far from Krueng Raya.
5 Senses – Scent SULPHUR
Pantai-pantai berpasir putih yang panjang, tebing-tebing batu nan sunyi dan dasar lautnya yang indah merupakan harta karun yang layak “diburu”.
The smell of sulphur from nearby volcanoes is of great help to ships operating in international waters. For the traveller, the volcano offers not only a fun experience but also a dramatic one. Dive and witness a variety of colourful fish, coral reefs and jellyfish, a peaceful piece of the world untouched by humans. Plus, see geothermal bubbles fizzing from the fissures of the ocean floor.
yang pulang melaut, dan kegelapan mulai datang menyelimuti Sabang. Sabang bagai tumbuh dalam sunyi, dalam diam. Hendak ke manakah mengusir sepi di malam hari?
Mencium dan merasakan langsung udara yang disemburkan dari gunung vulkanik di dasar laut dan di daratan merupakan pengalaman yang tidak hanya sekadar seru, tetapi juga dramatis. Temui ikan warna-warni, terumbu karang, penyu hingga ubur-ubur saat menyelam di kawasan yang masih jarang disentuh wisatawan. Saksikan juga gelembunggelembung udara hangat berbau sulfur menyembur dari dasar laut.
Sabang kini tidak memiliki bioskop, sebagaimana Kota Banda Aceh. Mencari bioskop atau kehidupan malam di seantero Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam, sama dengan mencari jarum dalam tumpukan jerami. Namun, pantai-pantai berpasir putih yang panjang, tebing-tebing batu nan sunyi dan dasar lautnya yang indah merupakan harta karun yang layak “diburu”.
Hampir setengah abad sebelum Indonesia merdeka, Sabang telah memiliki bioskop. Namanya Rex Bioscoop. Menurut Historical Data and Analysis Sabang Heritage Society, bioskop yang dibangun tahun 1900 ini, memutar film setiap hari termasuk film anak-anak.
Pada 28 November hingga 5 Desember tahun ini, berbagai macam kegiatan bahari dan bawah laut akan digelar dalam rangkaian acara Sail Sabang.
Dan saya membayangkan dasar laut yang sunyi, juga gelembung-gelembung dari gunung api bawah laut yang menyemburkan aroma sulfur.
MEDAN TO SABANG Flight Time 1 hour 10 minutes Frequency 2 flights per week
• Sabang
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