The Prayse of the Needle — So long as Hemp or Flax or Sheep shall bear Their linnen woollenfleecesyearebyyeare: So long as Silk-worms, with exhausted spoile, Of their own Entrailesfor mans gaine shall toyle. Tea till the world be quite dissolv'd and past; So long at least, the Needles use shall last: Thus is a needle prov'd an instrument Of profit, pleasure, and of ornament. Which mighty Queenes have grac'd in hand to take, And high borne Ladies such esteeme did make. That as their Daughters Daughters up did grow The Needles Art, they to their children show. There's nothing neere at hand, orfarthest sought, But with the Needle may be shaped and wrought... J o h n Taylor Preface to James Boler's The Needle's Excelkmy, 1631
MALLETT Established 1865
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The Needle's Excellency and other textiles
MAIJ.ET T 141 New Bond Street London VV1 Bonrdon House 2 Davies Street London W l
The Needle's Excellency Mallett in Bond Street Mallett & S o n (Antiques) Ltd 141 N e w B o n d S t r e e t L o n d o n \V1 Y O B S Telephone: 0 1 7 1 - 4 9 9 7411 Fax: 0 1 7 1 - 4 9 5 3 1 7 9
Mallett at Bourdon House M a l l e t t at B o u r d o n H o u s e L t d 2 Davies Street London W I Y
IIJ
Telephone: 0171-629 2444 Fax: 0 1 7 1 - 4 9 9 2 6 7 0
I'Vont a n d b a c k c o \ e r : A \'cry fine m i d 18th c e n t u r y e m b r o i d e r e d c o r n u c o p i a ol" g a r d e n (lowers (see pas^e 72).
I'rontispiece: D e t a i l o f a r a r e F J i z a b e t h a n silk jnirse e m b r o i d e r e d o n b o t h sides w i t h t h e rose of K n g l a n d in g o l d a n d s i h e r t l i r e a d a n d s e e d p e a r l s a n d s]5angles (seepage
55).
T i t l e i^age: A n e e d l e w o r k c u s h i o n . F r e n c h , circa 18 10.
O p p o s i t e i)age: D e t a i l of a 1 7th c e n t u r y n e e d l e w o r k p i c t u r e w i t h f o u r slips o f p e a r s . E n g l i s h , circa 1680. I'Vanied: 1 7 ', i x 15Vi in / 4 5 x 4 0 c m
Introduction We English have d o n e one thing Ijetter tlian any o t h e r nation needlework! M o r e specifically it was e m b r o i d e r y in m e d i a e \ a l times (opus angHcanum) for church vestments. T h e surviving w o n d e r s of this expressive pictorial needlework, minutely executed, are p r e s e r \ e d in m u s e u m s . Ever since the middle ages textiles have played an i m p o r t a n t part in English houses, luxurious living a n d the decorative arts in general. Wool was always one of o u r greatest products, prized for its quality a n d t r a d e d extensively in E u r o p e . It m a d e m a n y people rich a n d financed the building of glorious churches. Naturally it was used for decorative needlework as well as for m o r e practical furnishings. Silk was i m p o r t e d f r o m R o m a n umes, m o r e extensively in the m i d d l e ages, a n d E n g l a n d was in the forefront of its E u r o p e a n m a n u f a c t u r e : J a m e s I grew m u l b e r r y trees for his silkworm f a r m on the plot of land that is now G r e e n Park (by B u c k i n g h a m Palace). With wool a n d silk there grew a flourishing industry of tapestry making, c a r p e t m a n u f a c t u r e a n d stitched needlework. While tapestry is wo\'en on a loom (chiefly large hangings) needlework is always stitched a n d is therefore higliK' personal a n d each piece is entirely individual. Needlework itself can be di\ ided into \'arious kinds: a m o n g s t t h e m is embroidery, w h e r e material is d e c o r a t e d with sewn o r n a m e n t a n d canvaswork w h e r e regvilar ' c o u n t e d ' stitches depict a p a t t e r n . T h e historical uses of dyes a n d colour p e r m u t a t i o n s a d d a f u r t h e r world of N a t u r e . In all these, a n d in o t h e r technical a n d artistic variations, the po.ssibilities of p a t t e r n m a k i n g have p r o d u c e d a great artistic tradition; over the centuries culture has b e e n reflected in m a n y extraordinarily varying styles. We have collected together here a b r o a d selection of beautiful textiles, each o n e a good e x a m p l e of its type a n d m a n y of t h e m extremely rare a n d in particularly good condition. 1 h o p e you share the thrill I have in c o n t e m p l a t i n g their c h a r m , w o r k m a n s h i p a n d loveliness.
P L a n t o Synge Chief Executive
A 1 7th century book cover
An early 17th century pattern sampler C)]jposilc page: A (iiic 17th cciilury spot
Uni.seh. M a r c u s B Siimplers and
m o t i f sampler worked in silt;, witii silver
Embroideries
a n d siK'er gilt liiread, on linen. I'iinsies,
Seedleivork
roses a n d useful embroidery patterns are
Tapestry
1900. Lanto Synge .-l////V/ÂŤf I 982.
Abo\ e: A rare m i d I 7th centiiiy tent stitch book co\'er consisting o f front, back a n d spine with ]jortraits of a lady a n d a gentleman, the former in a red dress a n d
reeorded in a \ ai iet\' o f stitches ineluding
holding a fan in one h a n d a n d a highly
roeofo. plaited braid, interiaeing, Riissian
\aliied tiili]) in tlie other. .\lso (le|)icted is a
o\ereast, R o m a n i a n , erosslet, eye, tent a n d
glorious \ariely o f llowers a n d on the
back stitehes.
book-back there is a ral)bit, a bird a n d a |)()nd with a fish in it. I'he needlework is in splendidly bright condition.
English, circa l()4() Framed: I 1'/, x
in / 28.5 x 39 cm
l->nglish, circa 1(),5() Framed: 9% x I I "i in / 21 x 30 cm
For similar illustrated exam])les .see:
A Louis XV needlework carpet A m a g n i f i c e n t F r e n c h n e e d l e w o r k table
T h i s e x t r a o r d i n a r i l y well jjreserved c a r p e t
c a r p e t in r e m a r k a b l e c o n d i t i o n , w o r k e d in
m a y h a \ e b e e n m a d e to h a n g o n a table
v i b r a n t c o l o u r s o n a black b a c k g r o u n d ,
a n d is a t t r i b u t e d to a F r e n c h C a r m e l i t e
w i t h a c e n t r a l floral m e d a l l i o n s u r r o u n d e d
w o r k s h o p . . \ t the c o r n e r s a r e a n h e r a l d i c
by boldly scrolling lea\'es i n t e r s p e r s e d with
h e a r t e m b l e m w i t h flames, a s y m b o l of
flowers,
.•\phrociite a n d a r d e n t love, a n d t h e a r r o w s
t h e b r o a d b o r d e r w i t h r i b b o n tied
p l u m e s a n d foliate a r a b e s q u e s , t h e i n n e r
w i t h i n it r e p r e s e n t Eros's darts. ' F h e
a n d o u t e r designs f r a m e d w i t h i n gold
variety of dyes is \'ery rich a n d a p p e a r s
b o r d e r s e n t w i n e d w i t h o a k leaves.
n e v e r to have beeit e.xposed to daylight. T h e c a r p e t has a silk f r i n g e that s e e m s to
F r e n c h , circa I 750
b e t h e original, m a t c h i n g exactly the
119 in X 8 9 hi / 3 0 2 x 2 2 6 c m
wools of t h e n e e d l e w o r k .
V. ^ ViA
A selection of 18th century cushions l o p k'lt: A ncc'cllcvvork c iisliioii with large ccmral ilowriiis"; stalk a n d sw irling foliage.
Bottom left: A line Louis X \ ' I needlework
Bottom right: A n o t h e r \-er\- good i 8 t h
eiishion, the central c a r t o u c h e v\ith
c e n t u r y cushion, of needlework with
i n t e r w o \ e n roses finishing in a how. Italian, circa 1 ?.'>()
n n thical birds on a black g r o u n d w ith
s u r r o u n d i n g a basket of llowers on a
(lowers.
IB X 19 ill / If) X 4 8 em
cream ground. iMiglish, circa 1 7:)() French, circa 1770
loj) right: A w r y good tapestry eiisliioii depleting a \ a s e of (lowers in subtle shades. French, rimi 112U 18 X 17 in / 46 x 4,S em
10
19 X 25 in / 18 x 6 4 cm
1 9 x 11 in / 4 8 X 3:"),.-) c m
A walnut Qiiccii Anne rectangular stool A rare early Kith eenlui y w alnut rec t a n g u l a r s t o o l w i t h (lr()|)-iii s e a t eo\'ere(l in \ e r y l i n e e o i U e n i | ) o r a r y f l o r a l n e e d l e w o r k ; with n i o t i k l e d seat rail, raised o n t n r n e d lei^s w i t h p a d f e e l , a n d j o i n e d in- t t i n i e d s t r e t e h e r s .
Kns^lish. urea H e i g h t : 1 7 ' . in / I I c m \Vidth: 2 2 ' - in / 5 7 e n i Depth:
Ki in / I I c m
r
" t
\2 n
A fine Qiieen Anne vvalniit wing chair
A needlework panel fi amed in a modern low table
Opposite page: A \ ery bcaiiiirul eaih Ifitli
Below: An exce])lionall\- line early Ifith
century Q_ueen Anne walnut w ing chair
century needlework panel worked in gros
with cabriole front legs car\ecl at the knees
point and |)etit point with a design of
with scrolls and pendant bellllovvers, and
flowers and ])laying cards on a brown
chamfered back legs which ha\ e i^een
ground, mounted as a small low table with
restored; the elegant high back is
a polished walnut C:obhain leg base.
supported with outw ard scrolling arms.
This needlework was made, though
The chair retains its original needlework
nc\er used for the interior surface of a
with an o\'erall design of brightly coloured
folding card table. It is a line examjile of a
flowers on a yellow ground, worked in
trom]K' I'oeil design and in this case the
gros point and ])etit point, and the dyes
\ isual illusions include playing cards and a
still being wonderfulh bright.
purse oxerllowing with coins.
English, ana 1710
English, cirai 1710
Height: 47 in / 1 19 cm
Height: 11 in / 36 cm
Width: 34 in / Âť7 cm
Width: 30'/- in / 77 cm
Depth of seat: 19 in / 48 cm
Depth: 23',:. in / 60 cm
13
A magnificent Queen Anne walnut wing chair This early 18tli cemuiy walnut vvint!; chair
\ \ ith scrolling arms. car\ ecl shell motifs on
or 'easy" t'liair, retains its exceptioiiaih'
the knees of the front legs, and the back
beaiitil'iil original needlework eoxering. in
legs also o f cabriole form. T h e condition
which is clepictcd a splendid senii-
of the needlework is remarkable. We ha\ e
fornialised ])attern o f curling leaves and
records o f this chair being sold bv
flowers, on a cigar brown background.
Mallett's in 1937 when the iinoice ]3rice
The design represents one of the best
was /,38(), a high price at the time.
aspects of I.nglish decorati\'e can\ as
Below: .A detail o f the seat.
needlework and the pattern itself is related to the oriental insjMration of chintz
English, circa
patterns as dexeloped through crewi-l
Height: 59 in / l.')() cm
work.
Width: 31 in / 79 cm
The chair itself is es])ecially elegant
11
1710
Depth o f seat: 19 in / 48 cm
mmmi짜
my ./
yH, 1
mi^ ! ^
A magnificent pair of French needlework hangings Two panels ol idciuit al design. l)ul worked
I'Vench, cina 1 700
undulating, hillocky g r o u n d . Such hangings
with interestina, \ ai iaiions sliowing e n d i n g
7 ft 5 in X 4 ft I in / 227 x 126 cm
in can\ aswork. r a t h e r t h a n c m b r o i d e r \ ' on a cotton-linen g r o i m d are extremely rare. The
lea\es. flowers a n d frnit inelnding p o m e g r a n a t e s , ])eaehes a n d o t h e r exotic
This e x t r a o r d i n a r y pair of Louis X l \ '
two large panels are vsorked not o n h in
specimens, \vori<ed in c a n \ a s stitch
canx'aswork hangings c o r r e s p o n d s to
wools but with a high ])ro])ortion of silk
e m b r o i d e r y in silks a n d wools witli a c r e a m
Knglish crewelwork ciirtains with tree of
work, es])ecially in the use of lustrous golden
b a c k g r o u n d a n d enclosed within a twisted
life designs with rising stems of leax es,
yellow, which gi\es great life a n d glow to the
ribbon b o r d e r of red a n d vellow.
flowers a n d exotic fruits growing out of
magical forest of tropical lea\es a n d fruit.
A magnificent Regcncc needlework carpet A very rare and extremely fine early 18lh century Regence period needlcwxjrk carpet depicting a profusion of llowcrs and foliage in shades ol' blue, red, green and yellow, worked on a stone coloured ground between two blue columns, headed by garlands and festoons of flowers tied with red ribbons, tlie liorder with a continuous scroll jjattcrn on a pink ground. French, circa 1730 61 X a9 in / 15.0 X 225 cm
riiis beautiful mediimi sized carpet is very rich in colour, enhanced by tiie liglit coloured backgroiuid. one oi' the fa\oured features of French canxaswork and unusual in English needlework. The ])iilared arch design suggests that the ])iece may ha\ e been concei\ ed as a hanging, but not esscniiallv .so.
18
19
A \ ictorian tilevvork carj^et
Left: A fine mid 19th ccnlury iicccilcwork car])rt worked in squares with re|)eatiiig c[uatrefoils and stylised flower design, in rieh reds and blues on a green ground. English, (irca 1860 7 ft X 11 ft 3 in / 212 X 343 em
A large French tilevvork carpet ()]3|)osite page: An outstanding and \ ery large tilework 19th eentiny ear])et of sixty s(|tiares. with a red ground and bltie grounded border, each scjuare with a repeating design of stylised and scrolling lea\ es in green and beige on a crimson ground within an off-white band, the border with a running ribbon design entwined with similar leal" jjatterns in crimson, green and beige on a blue ground, within bead pattern edges.
French, 18,50 26 ft 4 in x 17 ft 6 in / 680 x 452 cm
Needlework carjiets of this kind are probably the most satisfactory works of all Victorian embroidery, of w hich a huge (|uantity was done, mostly of little artistic merit. This is an excejitionally beautihil French exam])le, the dyes being good and the ]3attern being original and especially elegant. Fhe caqiet is in su|jerb condition.
20
l \ v o 1 7lh century band samplers Right: A \c-ry fine b a n d sampler, dated 1670 e m b r o i d e r e d with a large \'ariely of b o r d e r patterns with lettering a n d o t h e r motifs, in bright colours. F r a m e d : 3 1 x 1 4 in / 79 x 36 cm
Far riglu: A n o t h e r very good b a n d s a m p l e r with e m b r o i d e r e d patterns, also
• •• -rv-
in excellent condition, worked with the al])habet a n d dated 1669. Framed 37 x 14 in / 9 4 x 36 cm
Both these sam])lers are derixed f r o m the practice of m a k i n g "samples' of ]3attern for use by girls for d e c o r a t i n g b o r d e r s of costume, which by the 17th c e n t u r y was conxerted into the m i n o r art of sam])ler m a k i n g as a sense of achievement. 'I'he b a n d ])atterns were derived f r o m x-arioiis lAiro]3ean sources a n d can frequently be seen on period c o s t u m c in early portraits. Ciradually they b e c a m e m o r e a n d m o r e decoratixc, al])habets were included a n d also n u m b e r i n g . The l e a r n i n g of these skills p r e p a r e d y o u n g girls for the ]Dractice of m a r k i n g linen with initials a n d dates, as well as in the general practice of jjractical a n d o r n a m e n t a l sewing. Girls could often sew well before thev could write.
_ mhmam
MICTT
g
j j
^
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Two more rare and early samplers
I w a s X(i â&#x20AC;˘ ast: i t J W L "Thousiit Tita< mumstBC Kcagi-g Bavffit Biff
R i g h t : A very fine early 18th c e n t u r y s a m p l e r with transitional e l e m e n t s i n c l u d i n g h a n d s of ])attern a n d a lengthy e x a m p l e of lettering in t h e f o r m of a text: 11 'hen I was vounge I littel thought that witt must he so dearly bought, hut now experieme tells me how if I would truie I must how and bend unto a nuthers will that I might learn hoth art and skill to get rny living with my hands so that I might he freed from hands
J ^ j m S M B ^
then my one dame Iha (nk)
FtOl pame
That I might he free from all such slavery that comes for leant of husifry.
Y M H a u s a m muii milMM lIUbELiZ^i. W t F I i E S m t s l n F m SHHth SMHfiHM S j u tmnsuHtt M a t t M mnh F r o M
.
F t r r o f i r o i
Dated 170i F r a m e d : 14'/' x 22''i in / 37 x
cm
For w a i t
1 HvssrtTf
susaiaft SMW
1704
l^io":â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
aiYihc-gtat
Far right: A m a g n i f i c e n t m i d 1 7th c e n t u r y b a n d s a m p l e r in the t r a d i t i o n a l long, n a r r o w f o r m a t , w i t h intricate p a n e l s of italianate b o r d e r designs, s o m e w o r k e d in semi-relief, a n d all in g o o d s h a d e s of g r e e n , blue a n d yellow. U n d a t e d , this fine s a m p l e r includes a n a l p h a b e t a n d in t h e fourtli b a n d ' b o x e r s ' w h i c h a r e t h o u g h t to b e st) liscd c u p i d s ]5resenting lloral bou(|uets.
F r a m e d : W , x 3 9 in / 37 x 99 c m
p
p
r i ^ x
p
^
i
i
a .W'-
23
An extremely fine Charles II needlework picture A (iiu'ly clclailrd m i d 1 7tli i c n t i i i y p i c t u r e
s u b j e c t , o n e o f t e n r e | ) r e s e n t e d . I'he figures
rc])rcst'ntinti; S o l o m o n rcccix inff tlu-
a r e s h o w n in m o d e r n tlress of" t h e t i m e s
(^iK'i'ii of Slu-ha. w i t h a l a i g c n u m l j c r of"
a n d S o l o m o n himsell" is clearly i d e n t i f i e d
iiu i d c n l a l motil's iiu iudiiiii; a n i m a l s ,
w i t h K i n g C h a r l e s 1. t h e lately e.xecuted
flowers, a ])ala( c a n d a casllc in t h e
King and martyr.
hac kni'oiind. It w a s t r a d i t i o n a l for yotiiig ^irls to
,\11 t h e i n c i d e n t a l details, whii h h a x e especial c h a r m , a r e d e r i x e d f i o i n w o o d c u t
w o r k a n c m h r o i d c r c d p i c l n r c w h e n thoy
illustrations in ])atlern b o o k s , a n d t h e
h a d c o m i j l c t c d t h e i r sam])lers. In this c a s e
w h o l e s c e n e is b r o u g h t t o g e t h e r in a
a gill w h o has sitrned herself" w i t h tlie
hillocky l a n d s c a p e .
initials /'"If h a s clone a n e x t r e m e l y
cina
m i n u t e l y w o r k e d p a n e l followiii!;; a
I'^nglish.
c o u l e m | ) o r a r y engrax in^ of a biblical
F r a m e d : 19' i x ZV/, in / .')() x (50 c m
24
1 ()()()
A needlework picture of Christ at the well A \ c n - g o o d late 17tli i c n t i i r y ]5i( t u r c in tciu stitch (lc'])icting ( Hirist a n d tlu- w o m a n ol" S a m a r i a at tlic well u i t l i m a n y incidciital motifs, i n c l u d i n g a gi assho]5pcr. As t h e l)ictinc illustrated o p p o s i t e , tiiis s h o w s a n o t h e r biblical s c e n e , in this e a s e f r o m i h c N e w T e s t a m e n t , a n d s h o w i n g t h e l i g i n c s in c o s t u m e s ol' hihlii al times. A g a i n t h e p a n e l includes m a n y chai ining incidental features a n d t h e oxcrall c o l o u r i n g is d e l i g h t f u l .
I'^nglish. area l(i(i{) I'Vamed: Hi'/, x 2,'^ in / 41 x r>H.') c m
'25
An unusually large and splendid stumpvvork cabinet A vci y fine a n d r a r e largi' sized
I'he n e e d l e w o r k c a b i n e t E n g l i s h (imi
a l r e a d y e m b r o i d e r e d sami)lers a n d
n e e d l e w o r k ealiinet o f r e e l a n g n l a r lorni
l(i(i(), the glass c a s e firca 1 8 0 0
])ictiires. '{'he endlessly rich |)ancls for lief,
])roru,sely d e e o r a t e d \\ illi scenes, figures,
H e i g h t o f c a s e : I f in / 2 8 c m
sides, d o o r s on the from a n d tlie sides o f
easlles. flowers, birds a n d a n i m a l s , |)arlly
W'icftfi: 2 2 in / :i6 c m
the lid w e r e sc|)aratcly woi k c d a n d w e r e
in s t u n i p w o r k a n d ])artly wilh flowers a n d
l ) e ] j t h : 1 7 in / 14 c m
fitted t o g e t h e r by a t r a d e s m a n .
The b o x is
smartK' lined with (|Lhlte(l pink silk.
o t h e r niolifs in satin stitch. T h e c a b i n e t h a s with it a m o s t iinusual t^lazed display
T h e t o p features a ceiUraf o\al
c a s e o f s a t i n w o o d with m a h o g a n y a n d
T h i s e.\ce])tional o b j e c t w o u l d ha\e l ) c c n
illustration o f . A b r a h a m a n d ( i o d ' s
e b o n i s c d m o u l d i n g s , m a d e for it in t h e
the c r o w n i n g a c h i e x e m e n t of a
m e r c i f u l release o f I s a a c , in espei ialK' fine
early 19th century.
r e m a r k a b l e y o u n g girl w h o w o u l d ha\e
stitcfiing.
26
A
17th
century
sliimpwork
picture
A v e r y l i n e C l i a r l c s II ] ) c n o ( l
e n i ^ r a \ in<>"s in m o d e l h f i o k s f o r
c i n h r o i d c r c d ])i( t u r ( ' w ith m o t i f s ( l o n e in
e m h r o i d e r e r s t o eo])y.
s t u m p w o i i (ic ill p a d d e d reiiel). A e e i u r a i
C a r e l ' n l K d r a w n o u t . ])rol)al)ly b y a
b o r d e r e d with coral reefs. This e m b r o i d e r e d | ) i c t u r e is l a r g e r t h a n m o s t o t h e r k n o w n e m b r o i d e r i e s oj'
]5anel s i i o w s a gi a e e l u l m a i d e n iioldiiiy;
I j i o l e s s i o n a l sii])])lier ol p a t t e r n s , t h e s e
t h i s k i n d a n d is a ] ) a r t i c n l a r l y b e a u l i f u l
l l o w e r s . w h o p r o i ) a i ) l y r e p r e s e n t s tiie
m o t i l s h e a r n o r e l a t i o n t o e a c h o t h e r in
e\ani|5le.
â&#x20AC;˘Sense o f s m e l l , l i a m e d in a e a r t o n e h e
t e r m s ol s c a l e . (Colossal l l o w c r s a p p e a r t o
with a laurel w r e a t h .
oM'i'scale wild beasts, t h e siin. a castle a n d
i ' . n g l i s h . ciim
t h e o f t (le])iele(l b e a u t i f u l m e r m a i d
I rained: 27 x
â&#x20AC;˘
The m a i n
other
s w hich are
e m i j r o i d e r e d o n t o a satin h a e k t j r o n n d a r e
c o m b i n i ^ h e r h a i r a n d adniirinii; h e r
tNpieal o f p a t t e r n s d e r i x e d f r o m
r e l l e c t i o n in a l o o k i n s ; g l a s s , o n a s e a
Hilil) in / 69 \ 77.j
cm
L'/
A needlework picture of the finding of Moses
A pair of needlework pictures in walnut frames
A l M n r : A laic I 7tli c c n t u r y n e e d l e w o r k
O p p o s i t e p a g e : A r a r e ])air of early Kith
d e c o r a t i o n . T h e |5anels r e t a i n thei}'
])ieture in fine e o n d i l i o n a n d w i t h s t r o n g
c e n t u r y n e e d l e w o r k ]oictiires in b o l d
original w alnut frames.
eolourinir, d e p i c t i n g t h e i n f a n t M o s e s b e i n g
stitch: o n e <le])icting a lad\' r e c l i n i n g o n a
d i s c o \ c r e d in t h e l)nli'iishcs by llic d a u g h t e r
c o n c h c o n t c m | ) l a t i n g t h e en'ects of a
English.
of t h e I ' h a r a o h of l \ g \ p t . In e x t r a o r d i n a r i l y
small cn])id f i r i n g a n a r i o w . T h e o t h e r
K a c h f r a m e d : 1 1 x 1 9 in /
b r i g h t c o n d i t i o n this c h a r m i n g little p i c t u r e
s h o w i n g a n oi icntal m u s i c i a n | ) l a y i n g t h e
shows I ' h a r a o h s d a u g h t e r with an
\ iol t o jjcacefiil a n i m a l s in t h e lield.
e l a l j o r a t c h e a d dress. ]K-rha]5s of f e a t h e r s ,
inchiding rabbits eating carrots.
while a tiger is also f e a t u r e d a n d a \ c r y
These two c h a r m i n g a n d rare pictiiies
I'.nglish brick built h o u s e . |)()ssibly i h e h o m e
e p i t o m i s e t h e n a u e g r a c e of early Kith
ol' t h e y o t m g e n i b r o i d e r e s s .
c e n t i i r y Knglish n e e d l e w o i k . a n d e a c h is d e r i \ ( ' d f r o m dill'erent artistic s o n r c e s . t h e
I'.nglisli. d m i 1()9()
first | ) r o b a b l y a classical e n g r a \ i n g a n d
Kranied: I'.VA
t h e s e c o n d f r o m a b o o k of ( I h i n o i s e r i e
28
in x 17 in / '.i'l x 4 3 c m
ririYi
1 720 x }ÂŤ e m
2')
A n magnificent Italian
A n 18th century needlework
valancc
harvesting scene
A l ) ( ) \ c : A \ c'iy l a r c a n d unusual i-aiiy 18tli
R i g h t : A n unusually l a r g e scale a n d \ e r y
c c n l u i y Italian \al;uKC in niulticolourccl
line e a r l y 18th e e n t u r y n e e d l e w o r k ]3icture
('an\as w o r k , s h o w i n g a f o r m a l i s e d p a t t e r n
o f a g r o u ] ) o f f o u r ladies g a r d e n i n g a n d
w i t h hunc hes o f l l o w e r s interspersed w i t h
g a t h e r i n g fruit a n d l l o w e r s , in an
stems a n d i n e l u d i n g l a r g e lilies a n d tuli]js
u n d u l a t i n g l a n d s c a ] ) e w i t h trees a n d a
o n a g o l d e n b r o w n bac k g r o u n d a n d
distant house.
f r a m e d b y a /.ig /.ag b o r d e r . l-^nglish, circa I 720 Italian, cma
1 720
f r a m e d : 29".. x 9 ÂŤ in / 75 x 24(i e m
:50
f r a m e d : 3.') x 48 in / 8 9 x 122 e m
A Queen Anne silk embroidered coverlet All early IHtli ccnliiry cotton coverlet
association with M u g h a l decoration, eg
cml)roiderecl in silk with a central
the stone inlay on the T a j M a h a l , the
n i o n o g r a i n K]\'R, s u r r o u n d e d by b o r d e r s
delicacy of the floral o r n a m e n t is itself
a n d |)osies of flowers o n a cjiiilted grotind.
derix ed f r o m early E u r o p e a n herbals. T h e general layout with c o r n e r motifs a n d
This small bed c o \ c r was p r o b a b l y m a d e
central medallion is t h o u g h t to be of
for a child, ])erhaps for a cot. In f o r m a n d
Persian origin, as o n bookbindings, a n d as
decoration it follows a tradition of
in woven carpets. T h e yellow ciuilting has
magnificent bed cox ers e m b r o i d e r e d in
a C:hincse origin.
oriental fashion a n d based on C h i n e s e a n d Indian patterns. While the floral motifs have obx ious
English, circa 1710 39 x 4 4 in / 99 x 112 cm
/ 7 N / -if
Z
:v2
/'k
A magnificent needlework panel A very fine a n d brightly stitched needlework ])anel worked in coloured wools a n d silks with a g r o u p ol" mixed flowers including roses, c a r n a t i o n s a n d tulips in a blue a n d white \ a s e with l)ird decoration, standing on a flower strewn hill against an o c h r e g r o u n d . The stylised a n d elegant a r r a n g e m e n t of" the flowers a n d lea\'cs on this panel, hardly relating to a natural \ a s e of flowers, is rejjresentatixe of English needlework p a t t e r n s at their best, where reality a n d illusion are blended into perfect decoration. This panel is related in design to the needlework coxering a set of chairs, o n e of which is shown below, which were sup])lied to E d w a r d D r y d e n of C a n o n ' s Ashby, N o r t h a m p t o n s h i r e by T h o m a s Phill of "At the sign of The 3 G o l d e n C h a i r s ' in T h e S t r a n d in 1714. \Ve can be reasonably certain that this ]?anel was m a d e by the s a m e embroiderers, presumably in a ]3rofessional workshop. English, circa 1714 Framed: 39'/. x 54% / 100 x 137 c m
Below: O n e f r o m the set of needlework chairs b o u g h t for the nation a n d r e t u r n e d to C a n o n ' s Ashby, N o r t h a m p t o n s h i r e . (The N a t i o n a l Trust).
33
U^Jl
A pair o f English crcwcKvork b e d curtains A l l csijccially line jjair ol' densely
])rcscr\'ed t h e c u r t a i n s r e t a i n t h e i r b r i g h t
l'R()\ i : \ A X ( : i .
c i n l ) r ( ) i ( i c r e ( l e u i l a i i i s o l ' l ii li l)aro(|uc
c o l o u r i n g a n d a r e a n e x c e | ) l i ( ) n a l sur\ i\ al
W'skeham
Martin
L ( y d s (lastle. R e n t .
design. 'I'liey are e()neei\ed on a g r a n d
o f their kind.
scale w i t h h o l d leaxcs. e x o t i c l l o w c r s a n d
cin tains must n o w b e c o n s i d e r e d as
tendrils inters])ersed willi
inagnilicent dccorati\c hangings though
line e x a m p l e s ol' I j i g l i s h c r e w e l o r w o o l
|)arrots a n d o t h e r hirds. A l l this steins
t i i e y w e r e o r i g i n a l l y m a d e as c u r t a i n s t o
work enibroideiA dating between
Iroiii a l a n d s c a p e o i ' n n d n l a u i i g hilloc ks
h a n g a r o u n d a l a r g e b e d to k e e ] ) o u t t h e
filled with incident; large a n d small
c o l d a n d ol" c o u r s e t o a d o r n it richly.
innlticoloiircd
This p a i r o l ' l a r g e s i z e d
flowers. i ) o n i e g r a n a t e s . an oriental
W'e a r e N et)- g l a d to h a w se\cral e s ] ) e c i a l l y
|)anels o n ] ) a g e s on pages
fimi
pa\ ilion a n d a s t a g b e i n g c h a s e d by a
laiglisli.
spotted animal. R e m a r k a h l v well
ÂŤ ( i X 92'.:. in / 2 l f i X 2:1') c m
1 ()!)()
1 ()9()-1 7!5(l.
I ' h e m a g n i l i c e n t c u r t a i n s a b o v e , the b l u e and the n e e d l e w o r k a r e all r e m a r k a b l e . W o o l
e m b r o i d e r y o f this k i n d w a s a p a r t i i iilarly l^nglish art.
An exceptionally imporlanl pair of blue and white crewelwork hangings Two exceptional panels of Q i i e e n A n n e
their condition - they a]3pear never to
period crevvelwork of \ e r y tall, narrow-
h a \ e b e e n used - a n d because tliey are the
The p a t t e r n itself is a rich leaf design
proportions, worked in m a n y shades of
only k n o w n example, to o u r know ledge,
c e n t r e d o n large feather-like .sprays a n d
blue in a design of scrolling lca\ es
wliere a p a t t e r n has b e e n worked at the
s u r r o u n d e d by o t h e r curling leaves a n d
interspersed with Hovver motifs o n a white
same time in b o t h crewel e m b r o i d e r y a n d
smaller flowers. Worked entirely in shades
wool g r o u n d ; o n e panel unfinished.
in canx aswork. S o m e years ago we sold a
of blue f r o m dark indigo to very pale, the
Illuslratcd in English Domeslic ^\eedlework by T h e r l e Hughes, p 129. English, circa 1710. or earlier In giltwood f r a m e s 9 ft 10 in X 2 ft 5'/:' in / 3 m x 75 c m
Tiiese hangings a r e r e m a r k a b l e pai tly for
36
infilling of smaller leaves is left u n d o n e .
pair of unused seat co\'ers (seat a n d back
lea\es are cach s h a d e d a n d inset with
for a ciiair) with a section of the same
smaller tendrils ol lea\ es a n d flowers. T h e
design stitched on c a m as, in t h e same
tall panels a p p e a r to be c o m p l e t e a n d were
dyed wools.
])erhaps originally conceixcd for use as bed
T h e hangings a r c e m b r o i d e r e d in .satin
curtains or to be fitted to panelling o n
stitch, not on the usual cotton-linen twill,
walls, a n d to be c o m p l e m e n t a r y to the seat
but on a fine woven a n d lustrous wool
f u r n i t u r e that must h a \ e b e e n p l a n n e d .
I'abric. O n e of the ]janels is unfinished:
The needlework was almost certainly m a d
t h o u g h the basic design is c o m p l e t e d the
by a professional workshop.
37
A pair o f chinoiserie influenced crewelwork hangings A \ cry fine pair o f early I fitli c entury {â&#x20AC;˘rcwolvvork liangin,^s witli ])<)lychn)nK" wool embroidery on a cotton twill groiiiitl. With large chinoiserie birds incoiporated within an o\erall design o f tree-of'-life and lloral design this elegant ]5air o f hangings were also m a d e as bed hangings, like the ones on the i)re\ ious pages. T h e y are \ ery well preseiA-ed with \ i\id colours and the background is remarkably fresh. English, circa 1 7 2 0 7 ft X 3 ft 8 in / 2 13 X 11 2 cm
38
A very good j^anel of English crcwclwork The clcganl design ol" this line large ])ieee of twisted wool enihroidery elcady falls i)etwceii the other examples o f creweh\'ork shown iicre. W'iiilc tiie ii])\\aicl curbing tree ])attern is dominated i)y large curled lea\cs reminiscent of barcMjiie leaves in Flemish 'cabbage leaf" ta]5estries and of hidian chintz, tiie ligiiter tendrils and delicate llowers look forward to Mughal inspired English silk embroidery of the Qiieen Anne period. T h e parrot and spectacular birds o f paradise, derived from Persian simurgh birds, add a general Clhinoiserie Ilaxour, whicii was \ery much in \ogue in England at the end of ihe 17th centiiry. The little stag, representatixe of the English landsca])e, seems dwarfed by the exotic fantasies o f the only halfknown and magical orient that this embroidery exokes.
English, dira 1 700 Framed: 7 ft 8 in x 4 ft / 203 x 102 cm
39
f
'O « ® O © .
® o
© ® ® • O
,
•
H.
) n
o"
a/a**
-v--^..®
S• »
r;
^'iit
^
^ ,. Coo
• • ; ..•*...,„,"c •
•',•••."
••
'....v..'
^
An exceptional spangle and bcacKvork picture Riglit a n d o|)posite p a g e detail: A rare a n d wonderlul early 18th centnry spangle a n d beadvvork picture de]3icting a lady playing a lute a n d g e n t l e m a n with a small d o g in a g a r d e n with a fountain, wild birds, animals a n d a castle in the b a c k g r o u n d ; in ])redominantly blues, greens a n d yellows, a n d all blessed by a smiling sun English, cina 1 700 F r a m e d : 15'/:; x 17 '/, in / 39 x 45 cm
A rare pair of beadwork bellows Right: A ]3air of silver m o u n t e d bellows, with working m e c h a n i s m , d e c o r a t e d on both faces with small glass beads; on o n e side in a lloral |)attern (see page HH) a n d on the o t h e r with a central c a r t o u c h e with a scene of a lady a n d g e n t l e m a n in a landsca])e. English, circa H)90 Length: 22 in / :')() cm Width: 10 in / 2.')..') cm
A French bcadwork picturc of a villa
A very fine Frcnch bcadwork panel
Below; An unusual a n d large I81I1 c c n t u r y
()p])osite ])age: A fine mid 18tli c e n t u r y
hcaclwork picture of a house, signed by
Ijeadwork jjicture depicting a lady in an exotic g a r d e n playing a t a m b o i u ine; the
Desire D u l o n g a n d dated 1790, inscribed
Fail Caudebec les Elheuf With
f
f
b e a d w o r k of this piece being exceptionally geometric
borders, the whole of various bright
detailed, of tiny beads a n d on an
coloins.
unusually large scale.
French,
circa
French,
1790
circa
1 750
Framed: 29 x 237. in / 74 x 59 c m
Framed: 33 x 33 in / 83.75 x 8 3 . 7 5 c m
ssaxs r gsans! iiESBE IBBaMg KBSEeSBSaiKR
la sssBs
isims
^ ss
at BMiB ' BigaEMvV^'IB ..-II ZMBBI IHtMB .V. I I 31 IBBfi > aBiseiai3n«saBBaE9-'-asMBiBiK-'-asais •: -: -: -: -: -: -: •: -: -: •: ^^ ^ . 0 >
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VIMIHlHr iBSfiBESESr
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WllilllWI
V ' w m a m m H j m ^
43
A fine English Soho tapestry A \ery line Hii<r|isli Aral)('S(|iK' lapcslry
Joshua M o r r i s is the n a m e most closely
C l e r m o n t , flanked b\- exotic birds, is
probably l)y J o s h u a M o r r i s o f I Villi Slrccl.
associated w ith early Ifilh c e i m u y l>nnlish
typical o f his style. Such \ases o f llowers
Soho. woven w i l h a t r n l r a l u r n lilli'cl witli
ta|)estries in silk a n d wool in the highly
are de|)icted in signed woiks by M o r r i s at
s u m m e r llowers Hanked In a ])arrot a n d a
decoratixe "arabesc|ue" a n d chinoiserie
(irimsthorjx" in Lincolnshire. O t h e i '
coekatoo ])erc hed al)o\e baskets o f
sty les, which have acc|uired the generic
exam])les h a n g in the D r a w i n g R o o m at
flowers, s u r r o u n d e d by slra])w()rk a n d
n a m e , "Soho" ta|)est) ies. .Morris is k n o w n
I lagley Hall in Wbicestershiie.
scrolls a n d Ibliatfe willi swags ol" I h m c r s
to ha\-e been the propi ietor o f a vvoi ksho])
c o m p a r i s o n ma\ be seen in the X'ictoria & .\lbert Muse\im.
close
above, within a red a n d ,s>(il<l Iraine
in the S o h o district o f L o n d o n between
pattern border.
1720 a n d 1730.
Englisli, ana
b r i m m i n g with naturalistic flowers.
Re\ised I'.dition 19.")L by Ral|)h l-dwards.
ins])ired by the ])aimings o f .\di ien ck-
Vol 111. p
This la])estry. with its rococo \ase 1720
92 X 122 in / 2:51 x :51()em
(See 7 he Dktwnary (if l'Ji;j,lish Fiiniilinr. fig 1,-).)
t:)
A very rare Soho carpet
A \'en' fine and unusual Englisli tapestry vvo\cn carpet ol" small pro|j(jrtions and in exceptionally good condition. The design incorporates roundels with ribbon tied bunches of flowers further framed within a bold red strapwork panel, on a yellow ground. T h e outer border of blue is decorated with \ery elegant formal stra[)work. This cs]5ecially charming textile may have been used on a table, hence its excellent condition. English, area 1730 96 X 1 19 in / 244 x 302 cm
This small scale carpet from the Soho factory (see previous page) has no chinoiserie or exotic motifs but is instead more closeK' related to English needlework carpets. However the tapestry technique of weax ing gives it a more ])recise and refined delicacv of detail.
46
lU
A rare pair of wall panels
All unusual a n d c h a r m i n g pair of panels
a n d a r a b e s q u e s with a monkey, fruit a n d
e m b r o i d e r e d in red crewelwork with other
foliage. T w o finely worked enclosed
shades on a cotton linen g r o u n d . Either
vignettes depict classical a r c a d i a n scenes.
French o r N o r t h h a l i a n , these interesting embroideries were p r e s u m a b l y p a r t of a
PVench or Italian, circa 1 750
larger decorative sclieme. T h e beautifully
E a c h f r a m e d : 61 x 32 in / 155 x 79 c m
d r a w n designs include o r n a m e n t a l birds
48
A pair of painted velvet bellpulls A \ e r y c h a r m i n g pair of c r e a m \ c l \ e t bcllpulls p a i n t e d with a variety of fknvcrs clinil)ing the reach of the material in shades of blues a n d reds, with Ijrass handles in the f o r m of dolphins (see English, circa
below).
1860
Length: 9 3 in / 236 c m Width: 4'A in / 1 1 cm
â&#x20AC;˘19
Fine French 18th century needlework panels This sjjk-ndid group oi' ]3ictiires pro\iclc
prcsen-ed panels display a \ariety (jf
good examples of fine ]3rol"cssional Frencli
classical and arcadian themes blended
l o p pair: 31
needlework which was widely exported to
with elements of fantasy all within formal
Bottom pair: 2&/i x 23'/, in / 67 x ()0 cm.
England for use on furniline and in
and free borders of strapwork and
Opposite ]Jage detail from a single panel:
screens. These exceptionally well
flowers.
27'/j X 23 in / 70 x 58.5 cm. M
ii
50
French, circa 1 720 x 2V/- in / 80 x ()2 cm.
framed.
n /tV
52
A very rare Gentleman's
A n early 18th century
embroidered cap
Lady's stomacher
Ojipositc ])agc: A very rare and
T h e dee]) rim is trimmed with gold lace
Below: 'I'his beautiful small item of costume
charming man's emliroiderecl caj) for
and s])angles.
is also finely embroidered with llowers and
Probably made by a member of the
Hnglish, circa 1640
and the piece elegantly pleated. A ])artially
family, this is decorated with scrolling
Di.sjilayed in a small ])rotective perspe.x
deci])herable inscription in ink on the back:
tendrils worked in silver-gilt chain stitcli
cabinet. Clase dimensions: 8' j .x 10 x lO'A
E Barton. The ^ift oj Aunt Ellis 23 of ~ Jii)ie...
foliage in silks, the colours well ])reser\'ed
smart informal wear, mid I 7lli century.
threads enclosing a colourful \ ariety of
in / 22 X 25 X 27.5 cm
flowers and fruits, including roses,
Cla]) dimensions: Height: 6'/i in / 17 cm
Knglish, circa 1715
cornflowers, strawberries and acorns.
Diameter: 7 in / 18 cm
Framed: 18 x 13'^ in / 46 x 34 cm
53
A fine Lady's coif
Silver embroidery for a purse J
AI)o\c: A linen coif dciicatciy c-nil)roiclcred
Below: A \ e r y r a r e 1 7th c e n t u r y
in c o l o u r e d silks a n d s>ilt t h r e a d s with
n e e d l e w o r k u n c u t jiursc w i t h foliate
coiling s t e m s encircling f l o u e r s i n c l u d i n g
d e c o r a t i o n , fruits a n d insects o n a g r o u n d
])ansies a n d h o n e y s u c k l e , mostly w o r k e d in
of silver t h r e a d .
b u t t o n hole a n d p l e a t e d b r a i d stilciies. t h e design h e i g h t e n e d with gold s])angles.
English, circa 1620 F r a m e d : 12'.J X 16 in / 32 x 41 c m
l-jiglisii, circa 1620 F r a m e d : 10'/, x \ T/i in / 26 x 44.') c m
,-)4
A very rare Elizal)clhan purse A n e x t r e m e l y r a r e I'-lizaheth I silk p u r s e
I"-nglish, chra HiOO
rielily e m l i r o i d e r e c l o n l)()tii sides w i t h t h e
() X 6 in / 15 X 15 eni
rose of iMigiand in gold a n d s i l w r t i i r e a d a n d witli seed p e a r l s a n d sjjangles;
'(hmt
r e t a i n i n g its o r i g i n a l tassels in t h e f o r m of
Red ruse our ffildeii (hieen
leaves are we
wild s t r a w b e r r i e s a n d w i t h its o r i g i n a l
Oh! (jmvned
d r a w siring. (Src also jhrntispiece).
Anioii^ the leaves so ^reen'
T h e ])urse
rose
IS ])reserve(l a n d dis])layed in a small glass a n d w a l n m ease.
(iloriaiia - B e n j a m i n B r i t t e n
C u l l o d c n
M u e r
samj^lcr
A n iniporiant IHlh c o m u r y
k n o w l e d g e is a w o m a n e x t e n d i n g flowers
I71(). 15onnie Prince C h a r l i e , g r a n d s o n o
c o m m e n i o r a i i w s a m p l e r r e t a i n i n g its very
t o w a r d s the victorious soldier a l o n g with
J a m e s II led the .Scots a g a i n s t the English
strong original l o l o i i r s a n d w o r k e d with
s e \ e r a l sets o f initials below \ a r i o u s c r o w n s
g o \ e r n m e n t c o m m a n d e d by the D u k e o f
s e \ e r a l a l p h a b e t s a n d a b o r d e r lloral m o t i f
a n d coronets. T h o u g h the sentiment might
C u m b e r l a n d . T h e two g e n e r a l s were both
a l o n g with the d a t e M a r c h lOth 1746.
ap])ear to b e ])ro English the tints o f the
twenty li\'e years old a n d their b l o o d y bat
T h e m o s t iinusiial feature, however, is the
dye.s o f the silks used suggests the
w a s the last to b e fought on British soil.
large p i c t u r e at the b a s e c o m m e m o r a t i n g
e m b r o i d e r y w a s d o n e in .Scotland.
The struggle, on a m o o r three miles east
o f C u l l o d e n on April 16tii 174() by the
English/Scottisli, 1 746
S c o t s were routed. C u m b e r l a n d a c q u i r e d
E n g l i s h . A n inscri])tion a b o v e this picture
F r a m e d : 19V, .\ 2 0 in / 4 9 x 51 c m
the n i c k n a m e I5utcher C k m i b e r l a n d but w
the d e f e a t o f the h i g h l a n d e r s at tlie Battle
reads
A/
CuHod'n
Muer.
Peter
IMW.
h i \ e r n e s s . lasted less t h a n a n h o u r a n d th
O n the
i m m o r t a l i s e d by H a n d e l in his o r a t o r i o
other side o f a central m o t i f o f . \ d a m a n d E \ e with the s e r p e n t at the tree o f
Jiidax
At the Battle of Cailloden o n 16th A p r i l
Maccahaeiis
i onqueruiÂŤ
hero
a n d with the c h o r u s
See.
comes.
N . mumjjiinp^pii
" f v W
X
F
f
' ^ M ^ m O T
rV H i i % mQW'mf B ICDlFGMmiJIOF ms'f I
36
] t 0 4 i _
w
•K-
"L'i i
ir:-
• -.n.
-TiwSs;;-.
TJv-•
M :
Sii
A fine pair of embroidered maps T h i s fine j^air of globe hemis|5here silk einbroidcreci maps show the Americas worked by Claiherine Kekwick aiul Europe, Asia, Africa and Australia d o n e by \ I a r \ - Kekwick. N u m e r o u s early names for places include Botany Bay in N e w Holland (for Australia), Xegrolancl (a large part of central Africa), the Mogol's Empire in N o r t h e r n India, Chinese l artary, a n a r r o w strip of land in N o r t h America for the United States a n d m a n y I
i
other historic land markings. Embroidered m a p s were stitched by yoiing girls as a form of sampler to practise geogra]3hy, lettering and decorative sewing together. Englisli, area 1 790 Framed: 26'/. x 23'/. in / 67 x 60 cm
SI
.^.y^AKY
58
KEKWXCK
A rare j^tiir of Chinese footstools riiis rare pair of footstools of la('(|ut'n'cl wood retain tiicir \cry fine original coNcrings witli a clcsiirn worked in line glass beads on a silk groiind. the central panel shows the auspicious ])hoenix l)ird IK ing amidst scrolling llowers and smaller birds. T h e borders are also decorated with llowers and small birds.
Chinese, area
IHOO
Heigiit: 7'A. in / 19 cm Width: 14'/, in / ,'^7.5 cm Depth: 9 in /
cm
:')9
60
An unusual darned j^altern sampler
A good mid 19lh century sampler
Opposite page: A line 18th ceiuiiry sampler worked with llower motifs and ijiitterflies. and with the Agmis Dei and nine different darned ]3attern squares in varying stitehes, with the initials SB below a eoronet and dated 1739.
Below: A w r y good mid 19th centiiry sam|)ler by Matilda Stemp. aged ele\-en. 1849, inc()r|3orating a variety of \ ignettes, animals and a verse, all within a curling honeysuckle border. Fnglish, 1849
ProbabK- French, 1 739 Framed: 20 x 15% in / 51 x 39 eni
Framed: 29 x 31 in / 74 x 79 cm
Tiger, tiger ... A wry lint- and slriking laie IStli ceiilury ]3irliin' of a liger willi ils head lunu'cl tcmarcis the \ ic\ver. worked in oranges, reds and browns on a dark brown ground. Englisli, cimi 1 790 Framed: 25'/' x 30'/. in / 65 x 77.5 em (S2
A wool embroidered j)icture after Slul)bs A line w o o l i'iiil)idi(it'rc'(i piclui'c o f a l i g c r s c a l e d in a landsi a p e al'tei' the g r e a t l y a d m i r e d oil ]3ainliiiif b y ( i e o r g e Sluhhs.
Knslish.
cina
1ÂŤ()()
l i a n i e d : I 7'/i x 23 in / 11 \ 5 8 . 2 c m f S l u b b s p a i n t i n g : l'ri\ate C o l l e c t i o n ) .
A
( ^ u c c n
A n n e
silk
enibroiclerv
â&#x20AC;˘\n unusual a n d larc silk fnibroidtTcd
\ ery sjxx ial a n d elegant decorati\e
panel, worked on a fine (|uilted coHon
C|ualil\'.
g r o u n d in ihe m a n n e r o f traditional early
I'his panel o f needlework elearly owes
18th eentury bed cowdets. This
|)art o f its ins])inition to (Chinese
deeoralixe panel willi \ ery line
wali|)a])er a n d eeiually deri\es its elegant
poKchronie silk embroidery dc]jieling a
])attern from I n d i a n palamijores, but is
stylised tiee o f life, rich with bright
certainly o f English workmanship.
llowers and exotie oriental birds. Ibllows a tradition o f .\nglo-lndian embroiderv
l',nglish, ciira
where c h a r m i n g features o f each led to a
i Vamed: 31 x 39'
(i4
1710 in / 79 x 100.5 cm
A fine needlework picture rej^resenting Peace A c l i a r n i i n g t-arly I 8 t l i c t ' i i i u r y i i f f d l c w o r k ] ) i c t u r c vvitli f i g u r e s a n d castles ill a n n i u l u h u i n g l a i u l s e a p e w i t h g r a z i n g s h e e | ) , a sc|uirrel n e x t t o a s m a l l o a k t r e e a n d r a b b i t s n e x t t o a tliistle, E n g l i s h a n d Scottish nalional symbols, the central I ' e m a l e f i g u r e h o l d i n g a ]5alin i i o i i d .
i M i g l i s h , circa 1 7 0 0 I'ramed:
K5 x Ki'.'i i n /
x 41
cm
(if)
66
All e m b r o i d e r e d portrait of
A n e e d l c v v o r k j j a n c l in a
(jeorge I
c a r v c d w o o d fi a m e
( ) ] j p o s i l c |)ag(': A liiicly dclailccl |)it1ur(' o f
AIXAC: a
( i c o i g c 1. u u ( l c ) u l ) l ( ' ( l l y t a k e n l i o n i a
l U ' c d I c w o i ' k , w o r k e d in p e l i l p o j i i l \mi1i a n
( • ( ) n t c m ] ) ( ) r a r y c n g r a x i i i g o l a |)aiiilin<r.
u r n of s u m m e r llowcrs. ihe colours
])r()l)al)ly b y S i r ( J o d l i c y
Kncllcr.
l i n e ] ) a i u ' l ol" m i d
IHlli c c n u i r y
l a i g i i s h . circa I 7()() I ' V a n i e d : 2()' • x 2 1 in / ()7 x (il
em
r e m a i n i n g r e m a r k a b l y fresh a n d brinlit. on a i i r o u j i d ol' l l i i e e s h a d e s o f b r o w n , t h e
iMi^lisli,
circa I 7 2 0
i T a i i i c d : 2M x 2 1 i n / 7 1 x .oli c m
e m b r o i d i ' r y w i t h i n its o r i g i n a l \ c r y l i n e l y earx'ed m a h o g a n y f r a m e .
(i7
A silkwork picture of naturalistic design
A silkwork picture of formal design
Al)()\c: A laic IHili o r early 19tli c c i m i r y
( ) | ) p o s i t c ixige: A n 18lh c e n l i i r y silk
silver b l u e Iblia.m'. w o r k e d o n a black
silk u c c d l c w o r k p i c t i i r c (iC a v a s e
e m b r o i d e r ) ])iclure o f suix-rb f(ualil\ a n d
ground.
fonlainint!, x a r i o u s c o l o u r r u l (lowers.
in r e m a r k a b l e e o n d i l i o n . de|)i( t i n g a w i d e
E n g l i s h , ciira 1 8 0 0
e a r n a l i o n s a n d jiinks. p a s s i o n llower.
b o w l o f s u m m e r llowers i n e l u d i n g F r a m e d : [ W , x 2(i'
(i8
in / 7 8
()7 c m
| ) e o n \ . luli]) a n d ])rimula. to,smellier w ilh
Kjiglish, (inn
1 7()()
F r a m e d : 2 0 ' i x 2,')'
in / 7() x (),') c m
69
f
^ai//nit
'iT^//1 ..
A Frcnch silkwork embroidery of an ostrich A charming and unusual silk chenille picture of a iivizecl ostrich by its cage, with a title. After an unknown engra\ ing of the period. I-Vench, dna 1800 Framed: 21'/, 18'/, in / 54 x 4(i.,') cm
70
(
C U/J
t*;
vvitiiaiu: Attu^
, , J(
.
JifDan/
A Turkish banquet
riiis lasciiuiliiiii; panel of cinljioiclcry
])air of laurel wreaths. Worked on a c r e a m
clc|)icts a ricli (lining lablc setting w ith
satin g r o n n d . the e m b r o i d e r y is of silk
chairs, below an elegant chandelier with
chenille and siK'er thread.
oil lani])s, I'lattei s of lish a n d fowl are olTered with d e c a n t e r s of wine as well as
I ' r o b a b l y ' I n r k i s h . rimi 18S()
large how ls of frnit n n d e r a bower of
Framed: IH'/. x l() in / 123.5 x
llowers (ddaii
1
/ em
rii^lil). 'I'he scene is enclosed
by a lesli\-e arch of scrolls a n d lamps while also a \ a r i e l y of (inches carry swags a n d a 71
72
A cornucopia of garden flowers Opposite page: A very fine mid 18th ceiitiiry embroidered flower ]3ictiire, showing a posy of flowers including tulips, a poppy, carnations and roses gatliered in a horn and sliown against a black background. English, circa 1 750 Framed: 18 x 15% in / 46 x 39 cm
A pair of chenille three dimensional pictures of flowers Right: Tliese charming pictures worked in relief are of silk chenille embroidered on a skeleton of wire, witli a variety of real flowers shown in baskets. French, circa 1800 Eacli framed: 15V, X 19 X 3'/2 in / 40 x 48 x 9 cm
73
A 19th ccntury carpet with chcrries A 19lli c c i i t u r y n e e d l e w o r k cai'isel w o r k e d witli a desisi;n of elierries a n d r e d \ e i n e d leax es o n a c r e a m g r o n n d . I'^nglisli. ana
1870
10 a X 8 ft / :5()5 X 2 4 4 e m
74
A 19th century carpet depicting Neptune and Britannia
$
A h o \ c : All e a r l y 19tli ci-iuiiry small rcctangiilar needlework carpet depicting B r i t a n n i a recei\ ing N e ] ) t n n e ' s t r i d e n t , ]3red()miiiantly in s h a d e s ol" red a n d g r e e n with p a l e blue.
iMiglish, ami
1820
2 7 X 6 4 in / (>9 x 1 6 2 c m
Exeryone's friend
R i g h t : A late 19th cenlniA phisli-slitc h (clip])ed relici) p o r t r a i t o f I'ollie the p a r r o t , o n a c r i m s o n \'el\ct g r o n n d . i : n g i i s h , riira
1 !i9()
I'Vained: 2!^ x 'I'.VA in / ,')fi..") x 6 0 c m
7,')
A Berlin work j^ictiirc of a vase of flowers with a parrot A lar^c red parrol a n d two smaller birds arc shown on a rich basket oi' fi iiit a n d llovvcrs ill this wool e m b r o i d e r e d pirliire re])resentalive ol' "Berlin work', which roliowed the dc\clo])nient o f can\ as work with brighl coloured wool in Saxony.
I'-ngiish. circa
1850
I'Vamed: 30 x 35 in / 7() x 8() c m
76
Princc Albert's faxouritc
A laru;c c a i n aswork pic turc ol a S i v y h o u n d alter llic I'^dwiii L a i i d s c i T ])ainting Eos. a Favourile (ireyhound. Property of URU
the
Prime Mherl. T l i c ])aiiitini^
now iti tlu' collcction o f Mcr M a j e s t y ( J i i e e i i Kli/,al)etli II. I jis^lish, cirea
1850
I Vanied: 2 9 x 3 6 in / 7 3 . 3 .\ 91 em
A pair of 19th century husifs T w o I'lnbroidcRxl husifs framed and dated 1828 and 1820. English, early 19lh century Framed: 31 'A x 22'/, in / 80 x 56.5 cm
T h e s e useful hanfi;ing pockets were jjrobahly m a d e by soldiers away from h o m e for their wives or girlfriends. Decorated with regimental insignia, the embroideries incor]3orate cuttings of felts and fabric gleaned frcjm army tailors' scraps.
78
An amusing '3()s embroidery of de\'ils This panel showing n u m e r o u s playful huilestiues is m o u n t e d in a m o d e r n low lahle with a |)ainled a n d gilt f r a m e Knglish. ami 193(1 Height; 15 in / SH cm Widtii:
in / (iO n i l
1-ength: (54 in / 1 ()2.r) em 79
A beadwork panel mounted as a low table
A pair of William Morris 'Wey' pattern curtains
Left a n d below: A n unusual panel of
O p p o s i t e page: T h e Wey p a t t e r n printed
'Berlin' needlework m o u n t e d in a m o d e r n
o n cotton, with a red design on a c r e a m
low table. P e r h a p s originally eonceived as
b a c k g r o u n d of buds, flowers a n d foliage in
a screen panel this luxurious p a n e l shows
diagonals. T h e design by William Morris,
a vase of s u m m e r flowers u n d e r an arch
1883.
of strapwork a n d standing on a g r o u n d with f u r t h e r blooms. The vase is of
English, circa 1883
s h a d e d blue b e a d w o r k with a central
8 7 ' A x 5 0 i n / 222 X 127 c m
panel of earlier embroidery. T h e panel English, circa 1850
William M o r r i s (1834-1896) was a
Height: 1 'J'A in / 35 cm
celebrated p o l y m a t h in artistic aiid literary
Width: 26 in / 66 c m
circles but is likely to r e m a i n most f a m o u s
Length: 66'/, in / 1 70 cm
for his contribution to textile designs. We arc glad to be able to show s o m e fine examples of these on this a n d the next pages.
80
A William Morris curtain in the Peacock and Dragon design Riglit: A c u r t a i n in t h e o r i e n t a l l y i n s p i r e d desisrn ijy W i l l i a m M o r r i s o f st\lisecl P e a c o c k s a n d D r a g o n s in o r a n g e s , r e d s a n d b r o w n s , w o \ e n in w o o l .
E n g l i s h , circa 1878 87'/, X 6 6 in / 2 2 2 x 165 c m
A curtain in the 'Bird' design by William Morris ()])]X)site ])age: T h i s p a t t e r n w a s o r i g i n a l l y d e s i g n e d by M o r r i s for his o w n d r a w i n g r o o m at K e l m s c o t t H o u s e . H a m m e r s m i t h . Pairs of b i r d s f a c e e a c h o t h e r a m i d a c o n t i n u o u s |3attern of f l o w e r s a n d foliage. The c u r t a i n is o f d e e p b l u e s a n d g r e e n s in woven wool.
Englisii, circa 1 8 8 0 8 7 ' / 2 x 5 1 i n / 2 2 2 X 130 c m
A mother of pearl bordered William Morris design panel R i g h t : T h r e e W i l l i a m M o r r i s d e s i g n s in n e e d l e w o r k in pastel silks w i t h c e n t r a l l y scrolling I k m e r s in a lurc[uoise \ a s e , in a m o t h e r of jw ai l f a c e t e d f r a m e , i n s c r i b e d (.'alliupe.
l^nglish, circa 1860 F r a m e d : 3 5 x 2 4 in / 8 9 x (il c m
82
IL
A printed velveteen panel in the 'Cherweir design
A floral design of poppy plants
Be low: T h i s design, k n o w n as C i i c r w e l l
O j j p o s i t e p a g e : T h i s large c u r t a i n of a
w a s p r i n t e d not only o n t o \ e l v e t e e n b u t
c r e a m ]Drinted design of ]3op|j\' p l a n t s a n d
also o n t o c o t t o n . It shows large
foliage o n a leaf g r e e n g r o u n d , c l i m b i n g
c h r y s a n t h a n i u n i s , thistles a n d foliage
the l e n g t h of the c u r t a i n , is a t t r i b u t e d to
h i g h l i g h t e d in g o l d e n c r e a m c o l o u r s o n a
A r t h u r S i h e r of the S i h e r Studios.
g r e e n g r o i n i d . T h i s w a s o n e of J o h n H e n r y D e a r i e ' s designs for t h e M o r r i s
English, circa 1890
studio.
110'/, X 77 in / 281 x 196 c m
English, circa 1887 5 3 X 4 6 in / 135 x 11 7 c m
84
A painted design for a printed textile AIDOVC: A
design by K e n t & D a w e s
in g o u a c h e .
A small coat of arms
A framed heraldic shield
Below: A n 18th c e n t u r y n e e d l e w o r k c o a t
O p p o s i t e ])age: A n oval a r m o r i a l p a n e l
of a r m s as a p i c t u r e with a r i b b o n e d steed
d e p i c t i n g a crest with lion ram]5ant b e a r i n g
a b o v e a shield b e a r i n g six o r b s a n d a gold English, circa 1928
chevron,
a fleur d e lys a b o v e a c e n t r a l striped shield, a m i d s t foliage a n d flowers, o n a red g r o u n d .
F r a m e d : 28 x 36'/, in / 71 x 92 c m
86
English, circa I 740
English, circa 1750
F r a m e d : 14'A x 12 in / 37 x 3 0 . 5 c m
F r a m e d : 39 x 28' , in / 9 9 x 71 c m
87
MALLETT Mallctt Pic D I R I X : RORS
Rex C o o p e r * Chairman L a n t o Syngc Chief Executive The H o n Peter Dixon Paula H u n t Da% id \Vackett* *Non-executive
Mallett & Son (Antiques) Ltd 141 X c w B o n d Street L o n d o n W I Y OBS 'lei: 0 1 7 1 - 4 9 9 7411 Fax: 0 1 7 1 - 4 9 5 :5179 DLRLXNORS
L a n t o Synge Managing Director The H o n Peter Dixon Paula H u n t Giles H u t c h i n s o n Smith M A N A ( ; K R OK
I H E (;LA.SS D E P A R I N I K X R
John Smith M A . \ A ( ; I : R OK
I HE M A L L E T T
(;ALLERV
James Har\ey
Mallett at Bourdon House Ltd 2 Da\ ies Street L o n d o n W I Y ILJ Tel: 0 1 7 1 - 6 2 9 2 4 4 4 Fax: 0 1 7 1 - 4 9 9 2670
DIREC: I'ORS
L a n t o Synge The H o n Peter Dixon Paula H u n t I'homas W o o d h a m - S m i t i i H e n r y Xe\ ille J a n e C^harlton Associate Director
© Mallctt & Son (Antiques) Ltd 1997 Designed by I'heo F^odges Business Design C^onsultants P r i m e d in L n g l a n d by I'he W h i t e i ) o \ c Press Page 33. © Hw .\atmnal Irust I9<.)7. Page 63, © Christie's 88
T h e back of b e a d w o r k ix'llows, circa 1()90 (see page 41).
He wishes for the cloths of heaven Had I the heavens' embroidered cloths, Enwrought with golden and silver light, The blue and the dim and the dark cloths Of night and light and the half-light, I would spread the cloths underyourfeet: But I, being poor, have only my dreams; I have spread my dreams under yourfeet; Tread softly because you tread on my dreams. W B Yeats
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