MANIERA Magazine February 2013-Vol1 Issue 6

VOL. 1 ISSUE 6

A

FAMILIAR

FACE Ulric Collette

FEBRUARY 2013

Scotland’s next ‘it’ For medicine, designer art and ‘wow!’

Hayley Scanlon Danny Quirk

Editor’s Note

Time flies when you’re having fun...?

“To be beautiful means to be yourself. You don’t need to be accepted by others.

You need to accept yourself.”

Thich Nhat Hanh

It is amazing how time flies.

I know this may not be a revelation to many but it still amazes me how fast 10 or 20 years can rush by. When I think back over the last 10 to 20 years, sometimes it seems like a blur.

This year I will reach the magical number 50. Even though I am still working on saying it out loud with others in the room, I finally am able to write it out in words. I guess that is what is called taking “baby steps.” What I find very surprising? I am fine with turning 50. When I think back 20 years ago (tries to stifle a gasp) turning 30 was difficult. I felt I had to have my life all set with career, family, finances and concrete plans for my future. So many of my friends were starting families and when I look back I feel like I was a character from the Bridget Jones Diaries: 4 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com

the girlfriend who wasn’t married, no kids and would have to suffer through friends feeling the need to fix her up on dates.

Ten years rushed by, and next thing I knew I was approaching 40. The big four-oh was not as painful as turning 30 but hitting my mid 40s I found was hell. I found myself shaving a year or two here and there off my age. Frustrated at times thinking coulda, woulda, shoulda. I should have done this, would have have done that and coulda done this.

I would try to keep repeating to myself “things happen for a reason.” I always have believed that but for some reason from the age of 42-46 it was getting harder and harder to convince myself of that fact.

But gradually things started to change, life gives you challenges. I mean without chal-

lenges I think life would be pretty boring. When you feel you are at the age where life should be complete, changes can be hell. Changes in relationships, career or location can be hell, but somehow I realized that this is what they mean by “second half of your life” - not a “do-over” but to learn to appreciate and be thankful for the past. Every event, every person that has come in or left my life and every decision good or foolish has brought me to this exact place and time. I look back over that last 20-plus years not with regret but with excitement for what is in store for the next 20-30 years.

Thelma Lay FEBRUARY 2013

editorial

editor-in-chief Thelma Lay

Read past issue of our digital publication at mymaniera.com archive

writers Cyntia Aranday, Gabriel Berger, Thelma Lay, Juliette Lord, Sara Lovelace graphic design & layout Sara Lovelace

business

publisher/owner Thelma Lay chief operations officer / promotions Juliette Lord

about us

MANIERA Magazine is a fashion and lifestyle publication owned, operated and published by MANIERA LLC. Any views, opinions or interpretations expressed in columns are solely those of the author and do not represent those of Maniera LLC and its subsidiaries. Maniera LLC will not accept any responsibility for any views, opinions or interpretations expressed in the pages of Maniera Magazine, MyManiera.com or other communications.

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CONTENTS

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FEBRUARY 2013 | VOL. 1 ISSUE 6

REGULARS Publisher’s Note Creative Focus Health & Beauty Mani Style Man Style Int. Travel

FEATURES HITTING RESET Meet Stan, Reg YOU. IN 3-D. HAYLEY SCANLON BITTER SWEET LUST Chocolate

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‘ARTISTIC DARWINISM’ Danny Quirk

COVER

FAMILIAL FEATURES Ulric Collette

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|ULRIC COLLETTE

TRANSCENDENT gender & fashion CHRYSALIS A new twist to lingerie

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8 10 16 20 28 34 38 40

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HITTING RESET Mannequins assist medical students, staff to learn trade; increase knowledge for real situations faced in field JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF

weight and whether a patient has a chronic condition such as asthma, diabetes or heart failure.

Stan’s fellow mannequin Reg is Meet Stan, a high-fidelity manused by medical students, emernequin. Stan is located at The Scotgency medicine doctors, advanced tish Clinical Simulation Centre nurse practitioners and nursing (SCSC) which is based at the new practitioners. He boasts a heartbeat Forth Valley Royal Hospital in Larand a pulse, and it is possible to take bert, Scotland. He is one of a number of life-like specialist mannequins a blood sample from him. Be careful though because Reg can not only who are used to help train medical open and close his eyes and describe staff in a simulated operating thehis symptoms but he can also moan! atre environment. Stan responds to You can even hear him breathing. anaesthetic gases, enabling anaesOther mannequins include a baby, thetists, intensivists and other key two children and a pregnant womclinical staff to hone their skills. an.

Stan achieves this by “respond“Stan, Reg and the rest of the ing” to the treatment and clinical decisions made by staff. Course par- family are brilliant,” Scottish Clinical Simulation Centre Scottish Health ticipants not only need to take into account the type and dose of anaes- Secretary Alex Neil said. “Reg was thetic but also factors like height and even able to tell me how he was feel8 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com

FEBRUARY 2013

ing – we had a good chat and I am glad to hear the students here are treating him well.�

These hi-tech patients are treated by over 1,000 medical and clinical staff who attend training courses at the SCSC every year. They are filmed working with the mannequin in a variety of scenarios, and the video is then played back for evaluation and debriefing. Students look at what went well, what perhaps did not go as well and learn from any mistakes.

The recordings also highlight issues such as poor communication or missed comments between staff. Decision making can also be called into question and watching the playback can give staff a chance to re-evaluate their behaviours or techniques. Hospitals involved in FEBRUARY 2013

simulation training have reported an improvement in the management of emergency treatment as staff undertaking these courses become much more confident and skilled in how they apply their knowledge which ultimately benefits patients.

The SCSC is the only high-fidelity simulation centre in Scotland and is focused on improving patient safety using simulation-based medical education. Originally founded in 1998, it was one of the first simulation centres in Europe. The SCSC, which is supported by funding from NHS Education Scotland, also provides a hub for simulation strategy and leads the way in developing simulation faculty for both the Mobile Skills Unit and other simulation programs across Scotland.

LEFT - Staff are filmed working with the Stan mannequin in a variety of scenarios and the video is then played back for evaluation and debriefing while Scottish Cabinet Secretary for Health and Wellbeing Alex Neil - ABOVE, CENTER - with two of the doctors who took part in a training scenario with Stan. | SCOTTISH CLINICAL SIMULATION CENTRE

mymaniera.com | MANIERA | 9

You.

in 3-dimensions.

Printing in 3 dimensions JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF The world is no longer flat. 3-D films, 3-D televisions, 3-D photography and 3-D printers have all been making their mark, and the trend is set to continue throughout 2013.

Although most people are familiar with 3-D film and television, 3-D printing has not yet become mainstream.

The 3-D print process comes in two very different incarnations. The first, often referred to as additive manufacturing, is a large scale industrial process, which is used to make component parts for the aerospace industry among other things.

The second is the much more accessible home 3-D printer, which can be used by hobbyists to produce a wide range of small scale objects. It works by building up objects layer by layer out of melted plastic that is fed via a carefully controlled nozzle to form a shape. Currently retailing at around $2,000 USD, it is not yet at a price which will attract consumers in large numbers, but recently stores have sprung up in Tokyo and New York to familiarise the public with the concept of 3-D printing.

3-D printer manufacturer Makerbot has opened a retail outlet at 298 Mulberry Street, New York, where it not only sells 3-D printers but cus10 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com

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3D plastic head made by MakerBot. |MAKERBOT

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The Omote 3D figurines are available in three sizes 10, 15 and 20 cm. |OMOTE3D

tomers can also take home small 3-D print produced items such as replicas of historical buildings, toy cars with rolling wheels and toy helicopters with spinning blades for just a few dollars.

But perhaps the most fun is Makerbot’s new 3-D photography booth.

Just as with a regular photo booth, you sit in front of a camera, but instead of the flat two dimensional shot, the camera builds up a 3-D model of the subject’s head by taking photographs from four separate angles.

This 3-D model is a digital file which is then sent electronically to a 3-D printer which then produces a 3-D model in plastic of the subject’s head.

“We are super excited to offer our MakerBot Store customers the chance to be ‘immortalized’ by the 3D Photo Booth,” noted Bre Pettis, CEO and co-founder of MakerBot Industries. “We’ve been playing with this technology for awhile, and to finally be able to bring it directly to our customers is just awesome...This is beyond digital photography – it is the future - and to be able to create a 3-D image of yourself is just amazing,” If a model of your head is not enough then how about getting a full body figurine?

In Tokyo Omote3D Shashin Kan held a pop-up store at the Eye of Gyre, Jingumae, Shibuya-ku at the beginning of this year. Shashin Kan is Japanese for ‘photobooth’, and Japa-

FEBRUARY 2013

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nese creative agency PARTY have created the Omote 3D, a photobooth which produces 3D figurines instead of photographs. The pop-up store not only included exhibits of some of the 3-D printed figurines, but also gave customers the opportunity to have your their own likeness made into a doll. Here, the subjects were scanned with a 3-D scanner where, rather like in the infancy of photography, they were required to remain motionless for 15 minutes while the image was created. The scan image was then digitally made into a 3-D model with care being taken to capture hair, clothes and eye colour before being sent to the 3-D printer to create the figurine. Although the process was not cheap (prices started at ¥ 21,000/ ~$265 USD) no doubt advances in technology will bring prices down in the future.

And if you prefer chocolate to plastic then Tokyo again provides an answer.

For Valentine’s Day, Shibuya’s Fab Cafe, a specialist cafe equipped with a range of digital fabrication tools, offered a two-day workshop where participants could transform their face into a tasty chocolate replica. For ¥6,000 (~$65 USD) the subject’s head is turned into a 3-D digital model, which is then printed in plastic. A silicon mold is then produced from the model which is then filled with melted chocolate. With this unusual and very personal Valentine’s Day gift, any hopes of remaining anonymous when the chocolate is unwrapped is impossible.

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Making your own face from the chocolate at FabCafe Tokyo . |FABCAFE TOKYO

Hayley Scanlan was named ‘Young Scottish Designer of the Year’ June 11, 2012 at the Scottish Fashion Awards 2012.

Scanlan JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF

of her dresses. Her “New Frontiers” collection also demonstrates the designer’s exceptional talent in printed fabrics, with all the prints designed Young Scottish Designer of the Year 2012 Hayley Scanlan graduated personally by Scanlan. The strong geometric shapes favoured by Scanfrom Duncan of Jordanstone Collan reflect the influence art has had lege of Art and Design in 2009. Her graduation show was seen by English on her designs.

Scanlan established her womsupermodel Erin O’Connor, who was enswear label in 2011 and has been so impressed that she commissioned a favourite of pop stars, including a custom-made signature studded Marina Diamandis, the lead singer of leather jacket from Scanlan. ScanMarina and the Diamonds; Jessie J lan then went on to intern as a print and 2011 UK X-Factor winner Little designer with Los Angeles-based Mix. designer Jeremy Scott.

Scanlan has also released her “HS” Scanlan’s designs have several essential features. Firstly, her garments range, which retains the signature Scanlan silhouette but is more comall have very simple silhouettes mercial and aimed at a wider audiwhich make her clothes extremely ence. wearable. She is also known for her This collection can be purchased extreme attention to detail with added embellishments, in particular the use from her website: hayleyscanlan. of studding around the neck and arms com/browse/All_0_0_0.html

FEBRUARY 2013

See Scanlan’s ‘HS’ Range

hayley

mymaniera.com | MANIERA | 17

HAYLEY SCANLAN VELVET VENOM COLLECTION |ROSS FRASER MCLEAN AT STUDIO RORO

HAYLEY SCANLAN NEW FRONTIERS COLLECTION |ROSS FRASER MCLEAN AT STUDIO RORO

The bitter-sweet nectar of lustful souls Chocolate.

CYNTIA ARANDAY MANIERA WRITER Chocolate is a passion for most people in the world. It is delicious, tasty, sweet and an absolute delight.

However, most people do not know that chocolate as we know it is a fermented result of a very bitter bean: cacao.

The word “chocolate” is believed to come from the Nahuatl word “xocolātl” which in turn is derived from the words “xococ” meaning bitter and “ātl” meaning drink. This would suggest that chocolate was a bitter drink employed in specific ceremonies by most Mesoamerican cultures. The oldest evidence was found in Puerto Escondido in Honduras in 2006, where fermented choco20 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com

late, which is in itself sweet, was believed to be employed to create an alcoholic beverage, while the cocoa beans were used to create the bitter drink.

The Aztecs were the ones that gave the name “xocolatl” to the drink, but in their version of it was different since it was spiced with chilli, vanilla and achiote which created a completely different flavor for the bitter drink. The importance of cacao beans was so great that Aztecs used it at currency since they knew the value cacao had as tribute.

When the Spanish came to Mexico for the first time, chocolate was introduced to them by Moctezuma II, the tlatoani (ruler) at the time and by 1585 chocolate started to be shipped for commercial purposes from Veracruz to Sevilla, where it was exported all over Europe as a delicacy.

As time passed, chocolate proved to be a force of its own. The desire it created and the slight addiction to it make it a powerful weapon; in some FEBRUARY 2013

countries, it is even believed to be an aphrodisiac but for Mexicans, it is a delicious and adaptable spice, used in more than one way to create different types of food from sweet to salty or even spicy.

Nowadays, chocolate is not only a sweet treat but a deliciously indulgent pleasure. In Mexico and several other countries, it is also part of the routine of everyday life. From children to adults, everyone enjoys chocolate in more than one form.

The most common example is a hot steamy beverage taken by children in the morning with their breakfast or when eating things like churros or croissants. Another example is when mixed with spices to create the famous sauce called mole, which is a mixture of several chillies very typical of specific areas like chile de arbol and chile ancho among others types of chilli. In other parts of Latin America, like Argentina, there is a dessert called Arrollado de Chocolate, consisting of a thin layer of bread filled with chocolate and rolled up, which can sometimes be dipped in chocolate. It can either be made large and cut in slices or made into small individual pieces.

Chocolate has been part of the Mexican and Latin American identity since the first civilizations were established here over 500 years ago, and even though it has taken force in other parts of the world like Sweden and Italy - to mention a few Latin American countries, including Mexico, remain the cultures who introduced chocolate to the world and still use it widely and in several forms.

Chicken with Mole Sauce 1 chicken, cut into 8 serving pieces 1 onion, quartered 4 cloves garlic, peeled,halved 6 sprigs fresh thyme 6 sprigs oregano 6 sprigs parsley 12 chiles guajillos, cleaned 3 ripe tomatoes, peeled 1/4 cup sesame seed

1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 whole clove 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice 1/4 cup oil 1 small onion, quartered 8 cloves garlic, peeled 2 inches cinnamon sticks 1 plantain, peeled,chopped 1 ounce mexican chocolate

Directions: 1) Place the chicken in a stew pot and add the onion, garlic and herbs.

2) Cover with water and bring to a boil. Cover the pot and let simmer until tender for about 30 minutes.

3) Meanwhile, remove the stems from the chile peppers and cut them in half lengthwise and remove the seeds.

4) Toast the chiles briefly in a hot skillet; do not overtoast.

5) Place chiles in a small bowl and cover with hot water; set aside.

6) Place the peeled tomatoes in a blender jar and pulse a few times.

7) Toast the sesame seeds until just browned in the same skillet.

8) Add to the tomatoes, along with the oregano, cloves, and allspice. Blend until smooth.

9) Add oil to the skillet and fry the onion pieces for about 5 minutes.

10) Add the garlic cloves and cinnamon stick and fry for 2 to 3 minutes before removing with a slotted spoon and transfer to the blender jar.

11) Fry the plantain for a few minutes, then transfer to the blender jar, along with the chiles and water. Blend until smooth.

12) Strain the sauce and return to the skillet.

13) Add the chocolate and season with salt.

14) Stir 2 cups of the chicken broth into the sauce.

15) Add the stewed chicken pieces and cook for about 20 to 25 minutes, uncovered. Mole sauce should be fairly thick.

Congratulations

To the staff of ‘Figaro Pho’ for their awards for “Best Animation” & “Best Design” at the 2013 Kidscreen Awards recently.

Read MANIERA’s article last month on ‘Figaro Pho’ and face your phobias!

“We’re thrilled to have won two such prestigious awards up against quality kids programming from all over the world. The fact that Figaro Pho took two craft awards out of a possible six is just amazing. We strive to capture the imagination of kids everywhere and to us this is recognition that Figaro Pho has made an impact.”

- DAVID WEBSTER, ANIMATION DIRECTOR AND CO-PRODUCER OF FIGARO PHO | AACTA & DAVID WEBSTER

Creative Focus

Getting it right Dave Behrens is a prime example of how high school teachers can really get it wrong.

JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF Told he should never pursue the arts as a career, he left school and only really started painting again 10 years ago. His work is really a series of contradictions, ancient symbols, but with strikingly modern geometric designs. Simple shapes which are then filled in with intricate complex designs, Behrens is heavily influenced by ancient cultures. Born in Sydney, Australia, but now based in Brisbane, Australia, Behrens is familiar with indigenous artwork.

“I have grown up with indigenous Australian art, and it’s something I’ve seen a lot of,” Behrens said. “Again, like Egyptian or Mayan cultures, I don’t set out to replicate indigenous work, and I don’t seek out that type of work to obtain inspiration or ideas. Indigenous art is very sacred to the artists that create it as they are re-living stories from their past generations.”

Although heavily influenced by hieroglyphs, he rarely uses traditional symbols but intentionally creates his own. Along with the ancient-looking symbols, he uses more modern symbols such as the peace sign and the Radura symbol, which he uses in his piece entitled “Mother Earth” which was created for the Australian Television Art show “Colour in Your Life.” The Radura symbol was created in the 1960s to identify fruit and vegetables that had been irradiated.

“I was looking for a cool symbol the night before I was 24 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com

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due to shoot my episode and came across the Radura symbol and thought this had potential for a reboot,” he said. “I didn’t actually choose the colours or the direction of the piece until we were actually shooting. It became pretty clear to me as the piece was developing that it was representative of Earth and that the Earth is cradling nature (which is its life-force), so the title Mother Earth just seemed appropriate.”

Behrens tells MANIERA that he does not choose the title of 90 percent of his works until after they are completed.

He uses an unusual technique using small plastic tubes with fine nozzles which he uses to apply his apply fine lines and tiny dots of paint. This is a process which requires not only a steady hand, but also a great artistic eye to visualise the finished piece.

Although he usually paints on a flat surface, Behrens recently applied his technique to the 3-D surface of Munny Dolls. A Munny is a figure made out of vinyl with movable joints. They are sold blank for the owner to decorate using pens, pencils, markers and paint. Not being flat, the dolls presented something of a challenge for Behrens.

“I could only paint a small portion of the doll at a time and allow two to three days for drying, then move the doll around to obtain the next flat surface,” Behrens said. “I painted four Munnys and they took just over three months to complete. The end result was very satisfying and my definitive style held its own in the 3-D world.”

Behrens will be featured at Penny Lane Gallery in Liverpool, UK later this year as well as having a solo exhibition at C Gallery in Brisbane.

He will also be showing at Art Fairs in Brisbane & Sydney, and hopes to also visit New York in 2013. For further information check his website at davebehrens.com.

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FAR LEFT - Behrens wanted a very serious face on his munny dolls to portray a tribal or warrior aspect. TOP - Behrens paints utilizing symbols. ABOVE - “Granada Heart” - green symbolizes growth and change. |TOP - BRIAN LARSEN

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Clockwise, from top left - Behrns places his art on display, working on it in public settings; “New Love”: Using Behrens two favourite colurs pink and green; “Mother Earth”: Created on the Television show Colour in Your Life and using 1960s Radura symbol; “La Streaka”: Behrens first piece to divert from just having squares and rectangular segments in horizontal and vertical positions; “Ying Yang (rebooted)”: The ancient Chinese Yin Yang symbol, given the Behren’s treatment. |TOP - BRIAN LARSEN

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More than

SKIN DEEP Medical illustrator hopeful hits Internet fame after breaking beneath the surface of skin SARA LOVELACE MANIERA STAFF

chance to build up, it just EXPLODED— BAM! Over night!”

Quirk struck gold with his On Jan. 6, the 3 million plus fans anatomically correct paintings using his girlfriend as a canvas twice, and of the Facebook page “I Fucking knew he had something. MediLove Science” got a special treat cal illustration has always been his an anatomically correct look at the passion, but as a new graduate of musculature of the back and face/ private art college Pratt Institute neck of a beauty painted on her body with acrylic, latex and sharpies. in Brooklyn, N.Y. two years ago he faced several obstacles in achievThe photo went viral, and its ing his dream, including the fact 25-year-old medical illustrator, he needed a much more extensive Danny Quirk, received over 10,000 likes on his Facebook page in under biology background to break into 10 hours. Before that, his first photo the field he wanted: medical illustraof the beauty - his girlfriend Cheryl tion. Most medical illustrators were biology-based graduates - not art - in his body medical illustration series about self-discovery was a big graduates, but he is determined to be accepted into a medical illustrasuccess as well, making the front page of social and blog media giants tion graduate program.

“Upon applying to graduate Reddit, Tumblr, Imgur and i09. To schools and realizing I had to take have his second photo featured on IFLS was like “hearing your favorite a ton of bio prereqs, I went to the American International College for celebrity mention you by name on comparative vertebrate anatomy, minational TV.” crobiology and chemistry, and went “From there everything snowto Holyoke Community College for balled, paving the way for things to human anatomy and physiology and come,” Quirk said. “I’m only 25, so cell biology,” Quirk said. “In hindall this notoriety has really caught me by surprise. The work didn’t get a sight - TOTALLY wish I was a bio 28 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com

FEBRUARY 2013

Danny Quirk, right, uses a process he nicknamed “artistic Darwinism” to stumble upon a niche to expand his work’s exposure.

Far right - pieces of work from Quirk’s portfolio. More of his work can be viewed on his Etsy shop.

major.... haha.”

For Quirk, growing up was a bit quirky - he was the “weird kid” who never quite fit in, no matter how much he tried. Trying to find something to call his own, he stumbled across art and he spent hours perfecting his craft - trying what worked, dropping what failed - in a process he came to call “artistic Darwinism.”

His success with his body art anatomy paintings are a prime example of his artistic Darwinism process as it helped him reach an audience he previously was not reaching, getting job offers when offers had been scarce before and putting a big decision before him: would he ride out his notoriety into a career and put off graduate studies? Maybe, maybe not, but at this time he is still looking for that acceptance letter from Rochester Institute of Technology or Georgia Health and Sciences University.

For the moment though, he is taking it as it comes.

“Recently I’ve been been working with a doctor/anatomist making illustrations for some of his manuscripts regarding a novel anatomical discovery he made in the deep cervical spine,” Quirk explained. “As part of the gig, I got to explore the cadaver labs and part take in dissecting the structure. It was all so fascinating to see/experience, it got some of my

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works published in major medical journals, and definitely confirmed beyond a reasonable doubt that medical illustration is indeed infact what I want to do in life.”

From the attention received from the project that caught the eye of millions and has spawned dozen of media stories internationally, Quirk might just get his dream. The current series, which includes both illustrations and body canvases, is about self-discovery and the inner self. According to a feature on Ripley’s Believe It Or Not, “Danny Quirk is a young artist whose taste tends to lean a bit on the darker side of life.” While he realizes a lot of people often mistake it for a morbid series of works, Quirk notes it’s about discovery and an aesthetic FEBRUARY 2013

“

The work didn’t get a chance to build up, it just EXPLODED— BAM! Over night.”

32 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com

Danny Quirk

education.

“If you’ll note, in all the pieces (except two) the figure is looking at the anatomy, and observing it,” Quirk told MANIERA. “With a curious, and content gaze, they aren’t causing/inflicting pain on themselves, rather revealing themselves.

I initially started the series to make pieces for grad school portfolios, but after about 2-3 pieces in, realized it had a much deeper psychological aspect to it, that I wanted to explore.”

Quirk describes himself as awkward and shy, often getting nervous FEBRUARY 2013

when first meeting someone, and sometimes that detracts from him being taken seriously. But when his first impressions come through his art, quite the opposite occurs. It allows him to partake in a conversation in a different manner while sharing things that excite him.

“People find the work to be calculated, accurate, original, and above all, impressive --- a word that would typically be omitted when describing myself if you hadn’t known what I do.” Quirk said. “I like to consider myself to be an intelligent FEBRUARY 2013

individual, one who loves learning/ sharing information with others.

However, when I get excited about sharing new things, I get incredibly excited, and often stutter. Haha. It’s something I embrace, but often it’s something that deters me from partaking in conversation, so when I’m painting, I use this as a way of making up for ‘lost talk’, recording all my observations, connecting parallels, and communicating the thoughts I have with the integrity the art has to offer.”

Quirk’s second image in his series went viral, appearing on the 3+ million Facebook page “I Fucking Love Science” in January.

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Familial Features The genetics of us

Ulric and his son, Nathan’s, merger was the first image completed in the collection.

Click here to see more of Ulric’s artwork and posters at mymaniera.com

JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF French Canadian photographer Ulric Colette began his “PORTRAITS GÉNÉTIQUES” project as a photographic inquiry into facial similarities between family members and the effects of aging in 2008.

“The subject on the genetic series are mostly my family and friends,” Colette told MANIERA. “This project is on-going, I don’t think I’ll ever stop, there is so much more potential and so many variations and other ideas related to genetics, so maybe this project will age and change on its own, I’ve already got a few new images that I’ll release later this year.”

The Genetic Portrait series began as a result of an accident in Photoshop.

“I was trying to age my son with Photoshop by combining a picture of him to a picture of me, and while experimenting I came up with this result,” he said. “I thought it could be

36 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com

very interesting to use genetic resemblances and aging as a main factor in a photographic research project.”

This first image of himself and son Nathan remains his favourite. He tells MANIERA that his friends and family have enjoyed being involved in the project and that at some future date he hopes to produce a book of the series.

In 2012 he was shortlisted for the 59th International Festival of Creativity in Cannes in the category Press, Public Awareness Messages. This was a collaboration between Colette and the Lew’Lara agency \ TBWA in Brazil. The submission, which used images from the genetic Portrait series, focused on the Abrinq Foundation in Brazil, an organisation established

by Brazilian toymakers to lobby and campaign to uphold the rights of children and adolescents.

Colette has always had an interest in the human face and body. He explains that he loves to work on “subjects relating to identity.” This is clear when you look at some of his other works. Facade for example is a series of images which combine several photograph angles of a subject’s face into one single image, while the series Disembodied Body plays with the idea of some of the body being absent. His latest venture which he has just started is the Therianthropes series which involves the fusion of human bodies with animal heads. All Colette’s work is slightly eerie, as he manipulates the familiar with photoshop wizardry to produce something strange and unsettling.

More of Colette’s work can be found on his website ulriccollette. com.

FEBRUARY 2013

Where fashion and art join together to create something amazing! ăťŒ

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The famous Love Magazine cover where supermodel Kate Moss, right, and transsexual model Lea T make out. The cover was the 2011 Androgyny cover of Love Magazine. and was shot by Mert & Marcus. |LOVE MAGAZINE

SARA LOVELACE MANIERA STAFF

fashion capitals are just now getting the hang of: the transgender model is now a common sight on this South American runway and not the sensaThe old saying “Boys will be boys and girls will be girls” is now obsolete. tional, sometimes controversial, sight it is in Europe and the United States.

About as obsolete as what sex someMore importantly, though, the transone is born. If a more studious gaze was directed toward the fashion com- gender model is a viable, respectable munity, that is even more apparent in a professional in the fashion industry.

“We are in the 21st century and place where art, beauty and edge is the there is just more tolerance in the air,” name of the game.

Director of the Rio-based modeling But the question remains: what agency 40 Graus Models Sergio Mattos defines someone’s gender?

This entire notion of the transgen- told the Associated Press last December. “Here in Brazil we now have gay

Transcendent der model was controversial because it blurred the lines of male and female, but in the last two years is now being embraced by one of the largest commercial enterprises in the world: fashion. The funny part about it is a lot of those looking at the images and at the models on the runway would never know the difference. This is even more apparent with the appearance of possibly the world’s most famous transsexual model, Lea T, on the cover of “Love” magazine kissing model Kate Moss in 2011 in its Androgyny Issue.

Following in the footsteps of New York, which was recently knocked to the second fashion capital of the world

by London according to Global Language Monitor, Brazil was listed as the seventh fashion capital in the world this year after it jumped 18 slots from last year. But it has something other

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The transgender fashion professional mayors, gay lawmakers. So why not trans-models? The world has evolved and now discrimination is, thankfully, becoming a thing of the past.”

And as Mattos, who is also credited with discovering a 14-year-old Giselle Bundchen, told the AP last year, he had no idea before seeing a transgender model’s driver’s license that a model taking one of his two-day basics of modeling classes was transgender – he was only impressed by her raven locks and enormous doe eyes before he offered her a spot among his 200 models he represents.

His thoughts? “What the hell, let’s give her a shot.”

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JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF This spring sees the launch of a new lingerie label making a difference.Co-founded by interior designer and fashion stylist Cy Lauz and Simone Tobias, the creative director of a menswear brand, Chrysalis seeks to provide beautiful underwear which addresses the special needs of the transgender woman.

“As founders, and as Trans women ourselves we created Chrysalis Lingerie because we knew there was a need for it, and there was nothing out there that catered to women like us,” Lauz explained to MANIERA. “The feedback thus far has been overwhelmingly positive.”

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The specialist range of bras and panties are produced for Transgender women who are either pre-operative or who have decided that surgery is not the route for them. This underwear range provides the foundation garments necessary to provide a feminine silhouette. The purpose-designed bras have built-in pockets which can hold full cup inserts and provide a natural looking shape. The power mesh panty contains a panel which “tucks in” and holds giving smooth and “seamless” lines.

Chrysalis avoid over sexualised and fetishistic underwear, instead opting for a mainstream underwear look. Their website has a powerful personal politics message, stating that: “Chrysalis was created to help change the FEBRUARY 2013

dehumanizing stereotypes and biases we are subjected to as a group and community... As a brand Chrysalis takes Transgender women beyond the marginalization imposed by the media and society and represents them as beautiful intelligent women with prowess, and the embodiment of female sensuality.�

All the models used on its website and advertising are transgender women. Maya, Jasmine, Arisce and Pitcha each provide a short video clip on the site talking about their own personal experiences as transgender women.

The Basic collection will be launched in FEBRUARY 2013

Flip the page to meet two models of Chrysalis Spring 2013 and will be available to purchase from the Chrysalis website. In the future they plan to launch a couture collection including teddies, shapewear, lingerie and swimwear. To keep up to date with all the developments at Chrysalis, you can join its mailing list at ChrysalisLingerie. com. mymaniera.com | MANIERA | 41

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Click here Meet Jasmine chrysalislingerie.com/media

Available in Basic and Couture Collections, Chrysalis’s panties effectively tuck, hold and smooth out for a perfect seamless look.

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Click here Meet Maya chrysalislingerie.com/media

Made with luxurious fabrics, Chrysalis’s bras are made to hold custom fullcup inserts.

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Health & Beauty

Natural smoke

This month make-up blogger Mariam Renee brings us a youthful take on a natural looking smokey eyed look with a bronze twist. You can see more of her make-up tutorials on her Renee & Co Beauty blog site at relaxedhaircentral.blogspot.co.uk or follow them on youtube at youtube. com/user/mariamrenne and on Twitter at @MariamAbdallah.

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Step 1

Starting with a clean, bare face, apply a face primer and a foundation of your choice. I used the Maybelline Dream Liquid Mousse Foundation. Next if you have dark circles, or any skin discoloration, you can use a concealer to “conceal” any target spots. I used the E.l.f Complete Coverage Concealer. Next you set your entire face with a face powder. My favorite powder to use is the E.l.f Clarifying pressed powder.

Step 2

To create this glamorous bronzed look, you need to start with an eyeshadow primer to ensure that your eyeshadows stay on all day long. I used the E..l.f cream Eyeshadow in ‘Bronzed’ to give me this great deep gold color all over my lid. I used the E.l.f Eyeshadow in ‘Raspberry Truffle’ to deepen the outer half of my eye. Now for the dark smokey effect, you can use a black eyeshadow or, in my case, a deep reddish brown. I applied that color into the outer ‘V’ of my eye, and used a fluffy blending brush to blend out any harsh lines.

Step 3

Now that the eyeshadow is done, you can add eyeliner! I’m going to use the E.l.f Liquid Eyeliner in Black to make a dramatic cat eye. To lengthen and volumize my lashes, I used my favorite Maybelline The Colossal Mascara.

After this, you are done with the eyes!

Step 4

For the rest of my face, I am going to apply a bronze highlight to my cheeks. I like to use the Wet n’ Wild Mega Glo Illuminating Powder in ‘Starlight Bronze’. As my blush color, I’m going to use a deep mauve blush for E.l.f called Blushing Rose. For my lips, I’m going to do a glossy red lip. I’m using a matte Red lipstick and a nude lip gloss.

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Mani Style

the secret to

great fitting clothes

This month London-based Vivienne Aiyela shares some of her top tips for achieving that perfect fit. Aiyela is the owner of Bespoke Personal Styling Concierge Service and Executive Operations Director for Theo’s Vision La Haute Culture (TVLHC), a creative global fashion platform that has successfully delivered two shows at London Fashion Week. She is also founder of the website clothes4realwomen.com a site which celebrates the diversity of the female form and helps women look good whatever their body shape.

Aiyela understands what it is like to fall outside standard sizing. At 6 feet tall in stocking feet, she has used her twenty plus years designing experience to create a unique perspective on just how clothes should fit to maximise the best look for your body. If you would like more fabulous tips on looking good Vivienne Aiyela is offering a free 30 minute consultation (in London or by Skype) and an exclusive copy of her eBook “The Secrets to Looking and Feeling More Confident Without Dieting: 30 Top Tips to a Better ‘You’!

Contact her at viv@clothes4realwomen.com and follow her on Twitter at @ MsVee1304.

As a stylist I truly understand the issues that women experience when buying clothes. The “one size fits all” is a false label that many of us like to believe we will fit into, but the human body is a fascinating piece of machinery that comes with individual DNA. In other words, we are unique and once you understand that and start loving yourself the rest will fall into place.

Every day we are bombarded with images that tell us we must look a certain way and, as usual, just after Christmas the hoopla of diet clubs and fitness dvds begins. The message is you must lose weight to look good or have the “perfect” body, which is subjective, to be considered beautiful or stylish. Beauty comes from within and does not have a label.

I do stress that it is important to be healthy, eat a healthy diet and undertake regular exercise but do not be drawn into thinking that you must be a size 0 to be beautiful.

The secret to the perfect fit is not the size on the label but understanding your body shape, what clothes suit your body and, of course, your personality. I would never style a client without carrying out a consultation as I need to really understand and get to know her. Another important factor is making the most of your body by wearing the right underwear. Great fitting underwear are your important foundations to an outfit looking good – a house

is never built on wobbly foundations.

When shopping, how many times have you gone into one shop and bought a jacket in a size 14, gone into another shop and tried on something similar in a size 14, but it does not even meet in the middle? We all assume that because we are, say, a size 14 in one shop, then a size 14 will always fit us in any shop. Many of us have come out frustrated and thinking, “Oh my gosh, I’ve put on weight” or “I’m going on a diet.”

Clothing manufacturers are not known for their adherence to standards. Do not get hung up on the size, get hung up on proper fit! If it feels tight, pulls or seems stressed at the seams, it will not last as long and it will make you look heavier. Buy clothing that fits you well and, not only will it make you look better, but it will also last longer.

Remember this: do not be afraid to try on different sizes.

Take at least three different sizes into the changing room with you.

If you are so conscious of buying the larger size but it fits correctly, cut the label out. Only you need to know the size. Most manufacturers clothes are designed for the medium-sized frame and use fit models who are 5 feet 4 inches. Many models in catalogues are also about 5 feet 4 inches too, now you know why if you are taller or shorter the clothes don’t fit you like you see. |ROBERT BEJIL PHOTOGRAPHY

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Men’s Corner

THE ONESIE |ONEPIECE

JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF

becoming increasingly blurred.

Styling a onesie is easy. Simply add a pair of quality trainers, maybe a funky hat to wear under the atThink of the ultimate snuggly tached hood, and a t-shirt in case comfort garment. Think of someyou want to unzip a little. Going thing warm, something that does commando is optional. Being wellnot rub, chafe or pinch. Think of groomed helps to elevate this item something soft that just screams a from pjs to streetwear. Being unlazy Sunday. kempt and unshaven may result in Think of the onesie. a “just fallen out of bed” look rather Although feted as something than the desired, cute, chic look. new, the one piece jumpsuit, now Using the bathroom may prove a better known as the onesie, has been bit tricky in one of these, but will get around since 2007 and originates not from the great fashion houses of easier with practice.

Some have denigrated the onesie Paris, London, New York or Milan as unflattering and silly: a kind but from Norway. of fashion faux pas alongside legThe onesie is like a giant babygro, as the name suggests, an all-in- gings and shell suits. But onesies are one head-to-foot garment without a practical and comfortable and really no sillier than a standard tracksuit. waistband which maximises comThe secret is to get one that has been fort. It is like an all-in-one tracksuit well-designed and does not scrimp designed with leisure in mind. It on the quality of the fabric. could be worn as sleepwear or for There are probably several oclounging around the house on a casions where wearing a onesie is weekend without raising too many eyebrows. But the onesie has recent- not a great idea. Job interviews and church are probably two of the most ly been making headlines because obvious, although doubtlessly someof its new found celebrity status as one will manage to break these rules. outerwear.

But for most leisure activities a oneKurt Hummel (played by actor sie is a useful addition to a fashionChris Colfer) has worn one in the television series Glee. Pop sensations able man’s wardrobe. UK stores such as Debenhams and Marks & SpenOne Direction have been photocers have reported rapidly increasing graphed wearing one, as has Justin sales of their onesie ranges.

Bieber. Brad Pitt was seen in one For a fabulous range of onesies on a family trip in LA. The onesie is for both men and women where now street. better to go than to original onesie Over the last few years there specialists OnePiece. Offering 2-5 have been several outraged newsday delivery worldwide and a huge paper articles about people visitrange of designs OnePiece have a ing supermarkets in their pajamas. onesie for (almost all) occasions.

It would seem that the definition between sleepwear and streetwear is FEBRUARY 2013

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MONTPELLIER Place de la Comédie, a huge open public space surrounded by cafés, and home to the 19th century opera house is one of the largest pedestrian areas in Europe. |COMEDIE-®VILLE DE MONTPELLIER

JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF When most people think of France, Paris might be the first thing which comes to mind, but the southern French city of Montpellier is located just 11 kilometres (approximately six miles) from the Mediterranean coast, and just over three hours travelling time from both Paris, France and Barcelona might just surprise you.

This year the 100th Tour de France will stop over in Montpellier for two stages: Aix-en-Provence to Montpellier July 4 and Montpellier to Albi July 5. There are a wide range of festivals planned including the International Festival of Extreme Sports (FISE), the Montpellier Dance Festival, Radio France and Montpellier Languedoc Roussillon Festival, the International Guitar Festival and the Festival of Living Architecture.

The L3 line was designed by world famous fashion designer Christian Lacroix. |TRAMWAY L3-®OT MONTPELLIER

Capital of the Languedoc Roussillon region, Montpellier is a successful combination of ancient and modern. The city has a 1000-year history which is evident in the medieval streets full of quirky boutiques, cafés and restaurants. As you wind your way around the old part of the city, known as the Ecusson, you are constantly surprised by open courtyards, stunning architecture and imposing statues. The ambience is enhanced by the fact that the old city is exclusively pedestrian but with excellent public transport links provided by the highly-efficient tram system which has been hailed as one of most stylish public transport systems in the world. Where else can you ride on a tram designed by fashion house designer Christian Lacroix?

The hub of the city is undoubtedly the Place de la Comédie, a huge, open public space surrounded by cafés and home to the 19th Century Opera House. Also known as

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l’OEuf (the Egg) because of its original oval shape, it is one of the largest pedestrian areas in Europe. In the centre stands the statue of the Three Graces, Montpellier’s emblematic goddesses.

Montpellier is a young and vibrant city with an estimated 70,000 students studying there, many of whom can be found hanging out in the trendy Place Jean-Jaurés. With a plethora of bars, cafés and restaurants coupled with the fabulous southern French climate, Montpellier is a wonderful place to just kick back and watch the world go by.

But if you want to brush up on your French then you could make use of one of the 20 French language schools in the city.

There are several private mansions in the city from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, most notable of these being the Hôtel de Varennes (home to the Museum of Old Montpellier), Hôtel des Trésoriers de la Bourse, Hôtel Jacques Coeur (which FEBRUARY 2013

became the Hôtel des Trésoriers de France in the 17th century, and today houses the Languedoc Museum) and Hôtel CabrièresSabatierd’Espeyran (now the Decorative Arts Museum).

The Musée Fabre hosts an extensive collection of art dating back to the 17th century with an entire floor devoted to the works of one of the key international figures of post-war abstraction, Pierre Soulages.

Every Sunday morning, antique and second-hand goods dealers hold their market on Montpellier’s Peyrou plaza. Get there early to snap up the best deals, as the market opens at 7:30 a.m.

France is always a delight for people who enjoy the culinary side of life, and Montpellier is no exception. Try Le Tamarillos, a flowerpower themed restaurant which is home to Philippe Chapon, two-time French champion desert chef or Les Vignes with its spectacular 13th century dining room. Both are located in the old part of the city.

On the flip side, there is no where better to experience Montpellier’s modern face than the Antigone district. Inspired by ancient Greece, this is a stylish suburb of chic apartments, shops and restaurants. Fans of modern architecture also need to visit the Hôtel de ville de Montpellier in the city’s Port Marianne district. Built on the banks of the Lez River and designed by architect Jean Nouvel, it is a complex digitized take on Paris’ neoclassic Arc de Triumph with a highly futuristic twist.

For more details about this French city and for up-to-date news on forthcoming events, visit otmontpellier.fr/en.

ABOVE - Hôtel de ville de Montpellier designed by Jean Nouvel is a futuristic twist on the Arc de Triumph. BELOW - The Antigone district,is the stylish subub of chic apartments, shops and restaurants. |HOÉTEL DE VILLE@VILLE DE MONTPELLIER & THESSALIE2000 - ® OTM F. BINDER

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