BEING SEEN IN FASHION AT MAGIC

In fashion today, it’s all about being seen but not necessarily in the way you think. Raising the profiles of women of color in the fashion industry and recognizing the size needs of customers who have not always been accommodated were recurring themes at two major apparel shows held in Las Vegas. Exhibitors and speakers at Las Vegas Apparel and MAGIC spoke of their desire to make the industry more open and serve a more diverse audience.

A MAGIC panel discussed the challenges that Black women face in the industry. Women of color still have trouble being seen, the panel noted. Moderator Edwina Kulego noted that even though she’s now a vice president at show organizer Informa, many at a meeting will assume she’s an assistant or are looking for a “decision-maker.” While strides have been made, however, more needs to be done, especially in the c-suite. While Black designers have made progress, few have made it to the board room. The result is a growing number of Black women entrepreneurs.

Fashionpreneur AK Brown noted that during a corporate position, she saw opportunities to travel and build relationships given to others, or suggestions dismissed. “Let me do my job,” she said. Instead, she founded her own business, working with companies on product development and more.

“As a producer who books creative talent – as beloved as we are, we’re here but we don’t always have the power. That is changing rapidly,” said Deborah Metts, a past consultant to designers including Chanel and Max Mara, a former Bloomingdale’s executive and now cofounder and COO of fashion tech company Beyond the Runway. “It now feels like we have the attention, but don’t have the ultimate power. A panel like this is part of changing that narrative.”

Also looking to change a different narrative — on sizing — are a growing number of young designers who are focusing on apparel that can be worn by women of all sizes.

Nicole Ljutic, the designer of Self Love and Confidence, a three-year-old line based in Las Vegas, founded her line out of necessity. A college volleyball player, Ljutic found it difficult to find clothing for a larger, more muscular figure. “So I started making my own clothes. From there, I found excitement in it and started my own line,” she said. Working as a waitress in Las Vegas as she launched her business, she’s found that self-funding has limited her current sizing from extra small to 2XL, but said that she hopes to expand to even larger sizes for her next collection.

Sylvie Wilson, co-founded Dani Marie (named for her sister and line co-founder) in Sydney, Australia three years ago, with a goal of creating a range that was sizeinclusive from size eight to 26. All pieces are made with natural fibers, with recycled materials used whenever possible and some can be styled in different ways including wraps that can accommodate nursing mothers. “It’s designed so that women with curves feel elegant and beautiful, with classic styling that they will treasure for a long time,” Wilson said. After selling in boutiques in Australia and online in the U.S., Dani Marie is looking to expand. “Our customers are saying ‘We want to be able to shop this in a store,’” Wilson said. “For so long, people who wear a size 14 to 16 or above struggle to find beautiful styles in their sizes in boutiques.” Others are hoping to connect by giving back, and helping sick children be seen. Headbands of Hope donates one headband to a child with an illness for every headband that is sold. In 11 years, the company has donated 1.7 million headbands to every children’s hospital in the U.S., said Susan Fochs, director of sales. The company works with boutiques and allows them to donate to their own local hospitals for the donations. In addition, Headbands of Hope can now be found in all Kohl’s stores. “Give-back brands have become increasingly popular, especially with Gen Z customers who want to make sure their dollar is doing the most good it possibly can,” Fochs said. “Everything we do is to make sure kids feel beautiful during their treatments.”