FASHION MANNUSCRIPT NEW YORK LOS ANGELES MIAMI THE HAMPTONS INSIDE Armitron Vintage Collection is a Nostalgic Look at the Past DONNA LEAH DESIGNS Spotlights 1970’s Disco Vibes THE BLAST FROM THE PAST ISSUE SUZY LEVIAN Retro-Inspired Sunglasses Button Sculpture Honors the History of the PLUS Doheny Drive Paves the Road to a New Era of Sustainable Private Labels BEAUTY Shirley Powell Shares Seasonal Skin and Makeup Transition Tips
GARMENT DISTRICT
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The Mann Charitable Foundation was founded over 20 years ago in memory of Marion and Irving Mann. Its mission is to fund research for geriatric diseases, and to ultimately find a cure for Alzheimer’s disease. Last year, the Mann Charitable Foundation expanded its initiatives to include Crohn’s and colitis, breast cancer, and liver diseases. This year we are expanding our donations to lymphoma and macular degeneration. Ticke GOLF
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EDITORIAL Editor Laurie Melchionne
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Associate Editor Lauren Schuster
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PRESIDENT/CEO
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ART
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Krystal Peguero
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COVER PHOTOGRAPHY
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CONTRIBUTORS
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ONE MANN’S OPINION
The Mann family has been in the garment industry for 100 years, and this issue pays homage to the history of one of New York’s most influential districts. The Garment District Alliance unveiled the new Big Button sculpture, which towers next to the man at the sewing machine statue on 39th Street. Both structures symbolize the impact of the Garment District in today’s apparel industry at large. The cover story takes us on a journey, from the shores of Ellis Island, whose first steps on American soil took them into the Garment District to eventually build this iconic neighborhood into the hub of the fashion industry, not just in the country but the world itself.
It went from being a community where up-and-coming designers with a sewing machine would simply walk down the block to acquire buttons, lace and other trimmings. Now, things are more spread out, but it’s important for members of the industry--both veterans and rookies alike--to understand what a struggle it was to turn the Garment District into what it is today. With landmarks like the 7th Avenue Fashion Walk of Fame, which highlights pioneers like Will Smith, Bill Blass and Halston, the evolution of this district lives in the buildings themselves.
The spirit of the Garment District goes beyond fashion; the Arno Restaurant, Keen’s Steakhouse and Wolfgang Puck are some of the staples that have survived decades of change, and provide the industry with the lively social scene that embodies the bustle and glamor fashion nightlife is known for.
Being part of both fashion and publishing, I’ve had the best of both worlds when reporting the cutting-edge stories of how the industry has changed through the eyes of Mann Publications. We always give an insider’s view of this industry, and if anyone is the insider, it’s me. As my father would say, the only thing constant is change, something that the Garment District thrives on year after year. We’ll continue to provide a behind-the-scenes look at all the industry’s news and happenings, and can’t wait to continue this journey long into the future.
“Ethics is knowing the difference between what you have a right to do and what is right to do.”
-Potter Stewart
Coming from a family of history buffs, this flashback issue was so much fun to plan. This Blast From the Past issue explores some of the best 20th century trends that still live in fashion today, and when you combine history and fashion, you get some great storytelling. From loungewear covered in disco-themed sequins to vintage, never-worn watches from the ‘70s and ‘80s, this issue launches readers through a time machine of some of fashion’s most iconic historic motifs.
It’s also why our cover story is so important; not only has the Garment District Alliance unveiled a new sculpture to symbolize the vibrant district that houses the apparel industry, but it also pays homage to the history of an industry that embodies the American dream itself. Immigrants built the Garment District from the ground up, and catapulted the neighborhood, and the industry itself, into an icon recognized throughout the world. Being so close to Times Square, the Garment District represents the vibrancy of the city, and showcases what New York resilience really means. The story provides an insider’s look on how the city, and the country itself, has grown through fashion’s eyes.
Mann Publications has had a front row seat to fashion history for decades, and it’s been an honor delivering audiences the latest on all industry changes and news. Here’s to decades more.
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TWENTY- EI GHTH ANN U A L GOL F OUT I NG Monday, July 24th, 2023 SAVE THE DATE In vite/ Re gistration info r ma tion to follow
APRIL 2023 12 Neiman Marcus Celebrates Award Recipients Who Revolutionize Luxury Experiences 14 Stella McCartney & Neiman Marcus Partner for Exclusive “Rewilding” Experience 16 Global Fashion Collective Showcases Upcoming Fall 2023 Collections 18 Rosenthal & Rosenthal’s Semi-Annual Cocktail Party at the February Magic Show FASHION FAVORITES FASHION FABULOUS 5 One Mann’s Opinion 6 Editor’s Letter 24 411 Executive Changes COVER FEATURE 44 ON THE COVER GARMENT DISTRICT ALLIANCE HONORS HISTORY WITH BIG BUTTON SCULPTURE 12 FASHION FAVORITES
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FASHION FORWARD THE DEPART MENTS 34 Global Swimwear Market Projections for 2023 38 Ricardo Beverly Hills Launches Luggage Essentials Line 40 Doheny Drive Paves The Road To A New Era of Sustainable Private Labels 42 Grandin Road Invites Customers To “Love Your Home More” with Spring Collection 50 Armitron Launches Vintage Archive Collection 32 Finance 57 TechWear 62 The Columns 73 Trade Show Connections 82 Horoscope 86 Social Soiree 90 A Closer Look: Daisy Jones & The SixInspired Collection from Free People By Krystal Peguero 94 Last Look: Jennifer Roth Talks Bringing “F” and “U” Into Shoes with KiraKira By Laurie Melchionne
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Neiman Marcus Group (NMG) hosted a gathering in Paris to celebrate the Neiman Marcus Awards and pay tribute to the 2023 honorees. The event also marked the commencement of annual customer programming that will harness the full strength of Neiman Marcus’ merchandising and marketing magic and its deep relationships in the fashion community.
“Bringing together the beating heart of the luxury industry was an incredibly important component of how we reimagined the awards platform,” said Geoffroy van Raemdonck, chief executive officer of NMG. “Tonight, we came together, united by our passion for our customers, to celebrate visionaries in the field of fashion who revolutionize luxury experiences.”
The retailer gathered industry leaders and creative forces, alongside global brand partners, past award recipients and top customers. More than 50 fashion brands were in the room, collectively reflecting nearly $200B in total revenues and employing nearly half a million people around the globe.
NEIMAN MARCUS CELEBRATES AWARD RECIPIENTS WHO REVOLUTIONIZE LUXURY EXPERIENCES
Brunello Cucinelli received the esteemed Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion, an award with a history of honoring more than 150 fashion luminaries over 85 years. Inaugural awards were given to Jonathan Anderson, creative director of LOEWE, who received the new Neiman Marcus Award for Creative Impact in the Field of Fashion, and Accessories Designer Amina Muaddi, who received the new Neiman Marcus Award for Innovation in the Field of Fashion. The Neiman Marcus Award statue was designed by William King in 1961, symbolizing the unfettered spirit of freedom so essential to the fashion creator.
“I greatly admire the 20 years of collaboration with Neiman Marcus, one of the highest expressions of fashion and luxury in the world and an icon of lifestyle and elegance,” said Cucinelli. “Thank you [Neiman Marcus] for this gift, because it
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Alex Bolen, Alexis Mourot
FASHION FAVORITES
Noah Cyrus Amina Muaddi
Photos courtesy of Joe Schildhorn/BFA.com
pays tribute and honor to our Italy, to our Umbria region, to our Solomeo, and to all those human beings who, with their skilled hands, are able to design special things.”
The event took place at La Suite Girafe, capping off the Fall/Winter 2023 season of Paris Fashion Week. Notable attendees included: Noah Cyrus, who performed for guests, Ashley Park and Paul Forman from the Netflix show “Emily in Paris,” who both wore clothes from the Brunello Cucinelli collection and Sabrina Elba, Didi Han, Lori Harvey, Tina Kunakey, Olivia Palermo and more. Special guest Rosita Missoni celebrated her 50th anniversary of receiving the Distinguished Service Award.
“Thank you very much, Neiman Marcus, for choosing me. You have been there from the very beginning, and believed in me when no one else did,” stated Anderson at the event. “Thank you for supporting LOEWE in everything we do.”
Each honoree’s unique brand expression will come to life through immersive experiences engaging customers in stores, online and through remote selling, as part of the retailer’s integrated approach. They will enjoy premium access to exclusive events, curated collections and retailtainment activities. The activity will be further amplified as part of an integrated marketing strategy, across the website, app, social media, store visuals and the Neiman Marcus Book. In celebration of the Awards, several store windows have been transformed to honor past recipients whose legacy continues to inspire customers today.
Brunello Cucinelli will launch the Icon Collection this April, with exclusive pieces and a personal appearance for customers in Dallas. Jonathan Anderson and Amina Muaddi will each design exclusive collections and celebrate with Neiman Marcus customers at select stores across the country. Neiman Marcus will expand into new categories by honoring different industry creatives each year.
The Neiman Marcus Awards platform is one of many ways the luxury retailer creates a differentiated halo effect for all brand partners and makes life extraordinary for its luxury customers. For more information on the Neiman Marcus Awards, visit the Neiman Marcus Awards website.
Angela Missoni, Geoffroy van Raemdonck, Rosita Missoni, Margherita Missoni Fabrizio Cardinali, Lana Todorovich, Geoffroy van Raemdonck
Federica Cucinelli, Camilla Cucinelli, Alice Lorenza Ceratti Geoffroy van Raemdonck, Jonathan Anderson, Amina Muaddi, Brunello Cucinelli, Lana Todorovich
Giorgia Tordini
Giorgia Tordini, Sabrina Elba
FASHION FAVORITES
Laurent Claquin, Lana Todorovich, Alex Bolen
STELLA MCCARTNEY PARTNERS WITH NEIMAN MARCUS FOR EXCLUSIVE “REWILDING” EXPERIENCE
Neiman Marcus hosted Stella McCartney for an exclusive experience introducing her Spring 2023 Collection, two days after the designer received her CBE honor, for services to fashion and sustainability, from His Majesty King Charles III at Windsor Castle. During the experience, Neiman Marcus customers gained new insights on the importance of sustainably and ethically-sourced fashion, trademarks of Stella McCartney and one way the integrated luxury retailer is “Revolutionizing Luxury Experiences” as it fully eliminates fur products from its assortment this month.
Stella McCartney’s Spring 2023 collection is rooted in the themes of rewilding and rechilding. The collection inspires playful self-expression and supports reestablishing the environment’s natural process of growth and revitalization by removing human intervention and reintroducing extirpated species. The mood-lifting pallet in the collection includes botanical prints hand-drawn in the designer’s London atelier. They feature flora and fauna, both native to England and are either endangered or in need of being reintroduced back into the environment.
“Stella McCartney’s leadership and dedication to sustainable and ethical practices paved the way for significant impact in the fashion industry, and her concepts continue inspiring us today,” said Lana Todorovich, chief merchandising officer, Neiman Marcus. “Her beautiful collections are designed to start a dialogue about how we can all make a difference. We are honored that Stella chose to kick off this inspirational conversation with our highly engaged customers and their style advisors.”
The collection is crafted from 85% responsible materials, the brand’s most sustainable collection to date. It includes forest-friendly viscose, GOTS-certified organic cotton, Humana denim made from textile waste, plant-based materials, regenerated cashmere and more. It also includes an ECONYL-regenerated nylon parka that can be taken back and recycled at the end of its life – making it a fully circular luxury garment. As always, the Stella McCartney brand is free from animal leather, feathers and fur.
“We feel like our choices won’t have a meaningful impact and I really don’t believe that,” said McCartney. “The fact we are all here today, and congratulations [Neiman Marcus] on giving up fur, we’re fighting for sustainability and a better future.”
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FASHION FAVORITES
Photos courtesy of World Red Eye
Customers at the experience also learned of ways to identify items with preferred product attributes made with sustainable materials, including fur alternatives and products that are responsibly manufactured. Last year, Neiman Marcus launched the Fashioned For Change edit, which now features Stella McCartney alongside an ever-evolving assortment of brands and products curated by standards designed to make a positive impact on people and the planet. In 2021, Neiman Marcus began taking steps to remove fur from its merchandise when it partnered with the Humane Society of the United States to develop its Animal Welfare Policy. As the company fully exits fur from its merchandise, it is ramping up efforts to increase revenue from sustainable and ethical products across its differentiated business model.
The Stella McCartney Spring 2023 collection will be available to customers in select Neiman Marcus stores and online. Additional information about Neiman Marcus’ Journey To Revolutionize Impact is available in its first ESG report, with its second report due late Spring 2023.
FASHION FAVORITES
FAVORITES
Global Fashion Collective Showcases Upcoming Fall 2023 Collections
Photos courtesy Jonathan Lapada/Lapada Photography
Upcoming fall 2023 collections were showcased in full swing at recent shows with the Global Fashion Collective. With designers from Japan, Indonesia, Mozambique, Mexico, China, France and Korea, the Global Fashion Collective brings a global footprint to current and future runway seasons.
Celebrities and VIP attendees spotted in the front row at the New York Fashion Week Shows included Nadia Jagessar, who stole the hearts of audiences during Season One & Season Two of the popular Netfl ix series “Indian Matchmaking,” along with Gerardo Tamayo, deputy director of The Mexican Cultural Institute of New York.
| April 2023 FASHION
Mexican brand Jasive makes a sophisticated, feminine style statement bringing elegance and a majestic, aristocratic feel to the runway. The collection was full of black, white and various shades of greens, sprinkled with ruffles and lace and adorned with jewels, soft and see-through detail and a hint of sensuality.
Chinese-influenced brand Maison De Hoe put on an upbeat show with pops of colorful details and fun patterns, while Ambergleam, owned by Japanese designers Yuki and Lione Nagayama, brought a soothing vibe to the runway with its music, model strut, muted colors and jewel and earthy tones. The street style was peppered with ripped clothes and relaxed fits, making the pieces perfect casual options. There were patterns, some flared bottoms and a few fitted articles.
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ROSENTHAL & ROSENTHAL’S
SEMI-ANNUAL COCKTAIL PARTY AT THE FEBRUARY MAGIC SHOW
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Sydnee Breuer, Debbie Steinberg, Maria Contino and Ying Yang
Ying Yang, Andrew Barone, Joseph Pepe and Joel Walitzer
The largest private factor and finance company in the country, Rosenthal and Rosenthal held their semi-annual cocktail party at the February Magic Show in Las Vegas. Hosted at the Bellagio in Executive Vice President Michael Cipriani’s suite, guests mingled and enjoyed shrimp, lamb chops and a variety of other herb d’oeuvres. The cocktail party provided a way to celebrate the exhibitors, buyers and factors at Magic Las Vegas. Magic, one of the largest trade shows in the U.S., featured labels in contemporary apparel, footwear and accessories for new buyers and vendors to browse.
Photos courtesy of Christian Andrade
Nancy Cipriani, Grace Mak, Javier Carreras, Gail Bivona-Hoerman and Michael Cipriani David Michaels and Joseph Ferrone
Howard Jaslow and Anthony Verrilli
Jeffrey Resnick, Jay Silver and Michael Sacco
Esther Bressler and Nancy Cipriani
Che Lei Chang and Michael Cipriani
Michael Cipriani, Joseph Nastri and Paul Schuldiner
MARCUM LLP NETWORKS at Cocktail Reception at Magic Las Vegas
Joe(L-R)JimWohn(BankUnited), Nastri(ValleyBank),Matil-daReyes(IDBbank)
(L-R)LizWafer(JPMorganChase), JavierCarreras(JPMorganChase), TimMoore(HilldunCorporation), MikeSacco(MarcumLLP)
FASHION FAVORITES
Photography by Cashman Photo
The Consumer & Industrial Products Group of Marcum LLP networked with guests during their cocktail reception at The Barbershop while attending Magic Las Vegas in February. Magic is one of Informa Markets’ major trade shows featuring curated brands in young contemporary, accessories, footwear, sportswear and more.
Attendees pose with their drinks.
Fran Davis (Valley National Bank), Tim Moore (Hilldun Corporation), Kristina Salvo (Valley Bank)
Howard Jaslow (Platzer Swergold Levine Goldberg Katz & Jaslow, LLP), Carson Kleiner (Rosenthal & Rosenthal), Michael Cipriani (Rosenthal & Rosenthal)
mannpublications.com
Javier Carreras (JP Morgan Chase), Thomas Miranda (Marcum LLP), Che Lai Chang (East West Bank), Grace Mak (Marcum LLP), Michael Sacco (Marcum LLP), Craig Miller (Merchant Factors Corp)
mannpublications.com April 2023 FM | 21
(L-R) Liz Wafer (JP Morgan Chase), Maura Kent (Merchant Factors Corp), Gail Hoerman-Bivona (JP Morgan Chase)
(L-R) Robert Prather (Deduction Management Services), Leonard Gordon (Marcum LLP), Grace Mak (Marcum LLP), Ronald Friedman (Marcum LLP)
(L-R) Robert Prather (Deduction Man- agement Services), Leonard Gordon (Marcum LLP), Grace Mak (Marcum LLP), Ronald Friedman (Marcum LLP)
Members of Rosenthal and Rosenthal and Marcum LLP pose
Guestsposeduringtheeveningof networkingandmingling
BANQUET AWARDS
GUASTAVINO’S - NEW YORK, NY
Please join us for the presentation of the Conrad B. Duberstein Memorial Award, and the Leadership in Credit Education Awards. We look forward to seeing you for cocktails, networking and a presentation you won’t want to miss! The presentations will begin promptly at 7:00 PM.
1 0 3 R D A N N UA L MAY 31 ST, 2023 | 5:30 PM - 8:30 PM
REGISTER AT WWW.INSTITUTEOFCREDIT.ORG
J O I N U S T O H O N O R
CHIEF JUDGE MARTIN GLENN PAUL SCHULDINER PAUL SHUR
We’re Back! Five Years Trending ...
Please join us for an exciting and informative program as we discuss consumer behavior and retail trends. Come network with retailers, manufacturers and service providers specializing in consumer products including: electronics, toys, accessories, food & beverage, apparel, e-commerce and more!
THURSDAY, MAY 4, 2023
E-Central Downtown Los Angeles Hotel 4:00 p.m. – 7:30 p.m.
Tickets: $50 each
KEYNOTE SPEAKER
MARSHAL COHEN
Chief Industry Advisor, Retail The NPD Group, Inc.
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EXPRESS ANNOUNCES
TAN FRANCE AS NEW LEAD STYLIST
Express announced that Tan France will become the new lead stylist of the Express Styling Community. France will use this new platform to inspire Express Style Editors, store associates and the entire community to bring the brand’s purpose—We Create Confidence. We Inspire Self-Expression—to life through brand activations and engagements. As a brand partner since 2019, France will now take on a new role leading the Express Style Editors and styling community through ongoing style mentorship, personal coaching and skill-building programs.
“We are thrilled to continue our work with Tan France to inspire confidence through fashion and grow our Styling Community. Tan has a deep understanding of our brand purpose and is able to bring it to life by tapping into his own sense of style and unique personal experiences,” said Sara Tervo, executive vice president and chief marketing officer at Express.
Launched in July 2021, the Style Editor program offers fashion enthusiasts a way to style, inspire and earn commission on a special collection of seasonal assortments. France succeeds fashion authority, Rachel Zoe, who was the brand’s first lead stylist and will continue her relationship with Express in a new capacity, which is to be announced later this year.
France will share his fashion expertise in social content on his platforms, the brand’s owned channels and paid media to help inspire and guide the entire Express Styling Community inclusive of Style Editors and store associates. To further expand the program and inspire career growth, France will mentor Style Editors and encourage aspiring stylists to apply to the program at brand events throughout the year.
More information on the Express Style Editor program including how to become a Style Editor and how to download the program’s app can be found here. You can also follow the brand’s social channels @express @expressmen.
HANS DORSINVILLE APPOINTED SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GLOBAL CREATIVE, BALMAIN BEAUTY
Balmain announced the appointment of Hans Dorsinville to Senior Vice President (SVP), Global Creative, Balmain Beauty, effective January 2023. Dorsinville will be based in New York and report directly to Olivier Rousteing, creative director of Balmain.
As SVP, Global Creative, Dorsinville will be responsible for overseeing the full creative spectrum for Balmain Beauty including image, concepts, strategy and alignment of brand voice with the fashion house. He will work with the team to ensure a cohesive experience across all touchpoints of the consumer journey.
Dorsinville brings more than 25 years of creative experience to Balmain Beauty, having served in leadership roles across leading fashion, branding and advertising agencies, and while in-house at Donna Karan. Most recently, Dorsinville held the role of chief creative officer at Gotham where he led the strategic creative work across several large-scale fashion and beauty brands. Hans is known for championing diversity, inclusion and empowerment across his work and in the fashion and beauty industries. In 2018, Hans founded the Creative Coalition for Diversity in an effort to expand opportunities for a more diverse and inclusive group of creatives of color.
In September 2022, The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. and Balmain announced a license agreement to collaboratively develop, produce and distribute an innovative line of beauty products that will speak to luxury consumers around the world: Balmain Beauty. The collaboration is expected to launch in fall 2024, with the goal to transform the luxury and couture beauty world through exceptional design, singular craftsmanship and an unyielding commitment to innovation.
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Photo courtesy of Business Wire
Photo Courtesy of Hans Dorsinville
KEEN LAUNCHES REVOLUTIONARY WALKING SHOE
Following three years of development and over five thousand miles of testing, KEEN unveils the WK400 ($165), a revolutionary shoe designed specifically to make walking more enjoyable and fun.
Four years ago, KEEN’s Global Product Innovation Creative Director, Rory Fuerst Jr., suffered a traumatic skiing accident that left him unable to walk for several months. As an accomplished athlete he never considered walking important, but four months into his recovery he discovered that walking was not just a means to get around. It was therapeutic. This experience served as the catalyst for KEEN’s latest innovation, one that is revolutionizing walking footwear.
In biomechanical lab studies, KEEN discovered that the body and legs act as a pendulum which causes the foot to move in a constant arc when walking, one that existing shoes fail to facilitate. To enhance this constant arc, KEEN created its patent-pending KEEN.CURVE™ technology. This technology combines constant curve geometry, underfoot plate technology and a high-energy midsole to create a unique feeling of forward momentum that makes walking feel like rolling.
Available for $165, the WK400 shoe comes in four colors across mensand womens-specific fits. The WK400 will be available for purchase at keenfootwear.com and at select sporting goods retailers in February 2023. To coincide with the launch of the WK400 shoe, KEEN is on a mission to establish walking as a movement, focusing on raising awareness around walking clubs, charities, as well as debuting their very own walking-focused podcast.
SKECHERS LAUNCHES FASHION COLLABORATION WITH DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
Confidence meets comfort in an exciting new footwear and apparel collaboration between Skechers and fashion industry icon, Diane von Furstenberg. Launched globally, Skechers x DVF is a celebration of effortless style and fashion-forward design that blends the designer’s signature prints and bold colors with the unparalleled comfort of Skechers.
“As a woman on the go and a passionate hiker, I’m excited to launch our collaboration with Skechers,” said von Furstenberg. “This empowering offering is designed for those who push boundaries, challenge the norms and inspire others.”
The Skechers collaboration with Diane von Furstenberg launches with the Endless Kisses capsule featuring the timeless DVF “Lips” print. The footwear range includes Skechers Uno and Skechers D’Lites fashion sneakers, Skechers Max Cushioning Elite running footwear, as well as a Hyper Slide recovery sandal. The collection includes a tee, leggings, shorts and racerback longline bra. These styles easily transition from working out to hanging out thanks to comfort innovations and breathable materials that are uniquely Skechers.
The Endless Kisses footwear and apparel capsule from the Skechers x DVF collection for women is available now at select Skechers retail stores and Skechers.com around the world. Additional designs featuring other popular DVF prints will arrive later this Spring.
mannpublications.com April 2023 FM | 25 FASHION 411 FOOTWEAR
Photo courtesy of Keen
Photo courtesy of Skechers
DIOR LAUNCHES HYDRAFACIAL WITH THE BEAUTYHEALTH COMPANY
Dior Beauty announced a partnership with The BeautyHealth Company, home to flagship brand Hydrafacial, to develop the custom Dior Powered by Hydrafacial experience which will be available exclusively at Dior spas this April.
The Dior Powered by Hydrafacial experience debuts a custom protocol co-created by Hydrafacial and Dior and a co-branded booster, incorporating the best of Dior skincare with Hydrafacial technology.
The innovative, 90-minute treatment is designed for the ultimate experience in wellness and luxury. It begins with a thorough cleansing and exfoliation of the face with the Dior Floral Peeling Lotion diffused through Hydrafacial’s roll-on handpiece and patented vortex technology. The skin is perfectly prepared to then receive a further holistic treatment, taking into consideration the client’s skin needs with expert Dior Spa gestures.
“We are pleased to be partnering with the iconic Dior brand to bring this exceptional treatment experience to Dior spas around the world,” said BeautyHealth President and Chief Executive Officer Andrew Stanleick. “The Dior Powered by Hydrafacial experience is a perfect example of our commitment to providing category-creating protocols and forging partnerships with the best in beauty and skincare.”
GLOSSIER LAUNCHES IN SEPHORA US + CANADA
Glossier’s products hit shelves at 600 Sephora stores across the United States and Canada, as well as online and on the Sephora App. Glossier staples and soon-to-be new favorites are available to swatch and shop at Sephora, which also means you can partake in Sephora’s Beauty Insider program to unlock new perks and points for Glossier shoppers.
“Glossier is built on community, and Sephora is not only an iconic global retailer but also embodies our commitment to community,” said Kyle Leahy, Glossier chief executive officer. “It is a beauty destination and the perfect partner for Glossier’s first-ever retail relationship. We both strive to celebrate the joys of beauty discovery and it’s where so many of our customers are already shopping. Before this collaboration was even announced, Glossier was one of the most searched brands on Sephora.com.”
With a new home at Sephora, Glossier aims to bring customers a slice of the lush Glossier-pink vibes from flagship stores, within the sleek, white-and-black aesthetic of Sephora. Glossier’s iconic hue serves as a cool backdrop that highlights products while the equally iconic wavy tray tester system finds its home on the Sephora gondola’s top shelf. Glossier’s signature “You Look Good” mirror is one of the first elements customers will notice when shopping the gondola.
“We could not be more excited to kick off this long-awaited partnership with Glossier and bring its fun, diverse and approachable product assortment to our Sephora clients,” said Carolyn Bojanowski, EVP merchandising at Sephora. “Glossier comes with an incredibly rich history and an existing — and very passionate — fan base. We’re thrilled to be able to bring its beloved products to our Sephora clients, who have been asking for this for quite some time.”
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Photo courtesy of Glossier
Photo courtesy of Business Wire.
ZIPPO AND SKIDZ LAUNCH 90S-INSPIRED STREETWEAR COLLECTION
Zippo Manufacturing Company, the world-renowned maker of the iconic windproof lighter and a growing assortment of lifestyle and outdoor products, has teamed up with Skidz, the New York-based streetwear brand that has appeared on some of the biggest names in entertainment for more than 30 years, to create a special-edition streetwear and accessory collection.
Merging quality, practicality and head-turning good looks, the 90s-inspired three-piece collection is complete with a taxi-yellow Zippo windproof lighter featuring the Skidz “Slippery When Wet” logo along with a unisex Skidz original one-size drawstring pant and reversible bucket hat featuring a colorful all-over motif of Zippo lighter designs.
“Comfort and bold, bright designs have always gone hand-in-hand for us at Skidz,” said Rick Fayer, founder and president at Skidz. “After relaunching the brand in 2019, we have been focused on reintroducing our brand to the world in exciting ways. With Zippo, we found a cultural icon with the same passion for stand-out innovative design.”
The collaboration between Zippo and Skidz celebrates confidence, selfexpression and quality American manufacturing – values shared by both iconic culture and lifestyle brands.
Prices range from $42 to $88 with the full collection available to shop on both Zippo.com and SKIDZNYC.com.
KIDPIK SPRING COLLECTION BLOSSOMS WITH TRENDY DENIM, POPS OF PASTELS & STYLISH FOOTWEAR
Kidpik announced the launch of its Spring 2023 collection filled with fresh color palettes and blossoming styles that are ready for a season of new adventures. Voted the number one subscription box for kids for the fourth consecutive year by My Subscription Addiction, the time-saving, commitment-free subscription service delivers personalized fashion in a box for girls and boys sizes 12 months to 16. Each Kidpik box is filled with items that create three or more mix-andmatch outfits including shoes that are unique to each child.
“Spring is a time of fresh looks and beautiful spring colors. Each Kidpik subscription box is styled to create complete head-to-toe outfits to welcome the season. This collection is filled with pastels, bright styles and our famous must-haves that are perfect for spring wardrobe refreshes and beyond,” said Ezra Dabah, Kidpik’s CEO.
Kidpik’s subscription boxes are styled inhouse. Parents take a quick quiz to share their kids’ style preferences. The average price is $16 per piece when you keep the entire box. Kidpik offers a try-before-you-buy experience with no styling fees.
No Spring collection would be complete without a selection of floral patterns. Designed in-house at Kidpik’s New York studio, delightful designs can be found on skirts, the brand’s signature dresses, matching skirt sets and classic twin sets.
This season is also all about white sneakers in low and high-top styles. Lace high-tops for girls are always on-trend and feature side zippers. Whether going on vacation or living in warm climates, sandals from Kidpik complete the fashion look.
Shoppers looking for inspiration can find styling ideas online and in Kidpik’s lookbook.
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Photo courtesy of Business Wire
Photo courtesy of Kidpik
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20th Century Fashion Influences
BY RONALD S. FRIEDMAN, CPA, MARCUM LLP
Hello, again! This issue focuses on the 20th century fashion influences on today’s styles. As someone with more than five decades’ worth of experience in the industry, there is a lot I can say about today’s roots in 20th century trends. But I am not going to talk about styles, because what does an accountant know about styling? If I were to like a style, my clients would pull it right out of the line. For sure, it would not sell.
What I can talk about is the history of the apparel industry in California and include some thoughts about the industry nationwide.
It was the early 1960s when two men moved from New York to Los Angeles to develop and grow the apparel industry in California. I refer to them as the fathers of the apparel industry. Sam Simon joined Manufacturers Bank and Bud Schoenholz was with United Factors. These two icons joined forces to provide the capital for entrepreneurs to start apparel companies that would grow into major businesses in the California market.
I was a young accountant in the 1970s, when I got a call from Sam Simon to come down to Manufacturers Bank at the corner of Los Angeles Street and Ninth Street. Sam would introduce me to a new client, and I would provide the financial statements and tax returns for the bank to rely on when making loans to these start-up companies. Sam would loan them $50,000 for their start-up capital, which was a lot of money in those days. Then he would introduce the client to United Factors and Bud Schoenholz, and Bud would loan them money on the accounts receivable.
My accounting practice grew as the apparel industry grew. We provided the bank and the factor with monthly financial statements for all these companies, and the companies met with the bank and factor on a regular
monthly basis. Without these two icons, there would not have been an apparel industry in California. As the industry grew in Los Angeles, more factors from New York started opening operations in this market. Before you knew it, there were a lot of factors in Los Angeles. Then other banks in the area started to see the growth in the industry and began setting up apparel divisions themselves.
The industry continued to grow as New York apparel people began moving to Los Angeles. The weather was great, life was more balanced, and the California style was taking off across the nation. Surfboards, swimwear, and the casual look were all coming from California. Sorry New Yorkers, but who would not want to live in California?
I will continue the story in future articles, but I would like to use what space I have left this month to remind everyone about the Marcum Retail Symposium coming up soon in Los Angeles (details at www.marcumevents.com).
This year’s symposium will be held on May 4 from 4:00 p.m. – 7:30 p.m. at the E-Central Downtown Los Angeles Hotel. You can register online, and sponsorships are available.
It will be a perfect time to meet leaders in the consumer products industry from all sides of the business, including manufacturing, retailing, banking, factoring, law and accounting. It will be a great networking event with an outstanding keynote speaker (drum
roll, please!).
Marshal Cohen, chief industry advisor of The NPD Group, is one of our industry’s true luminaries and an expert on consumer behavior and the retail industry. My dear friend, Jeff Mann, our presenting media sponsor, has arranged for Marshal to guide us through these difficult months for the retail industry. I expect he will be addressing issues such as the supply side difficulties everyone faced and the delivery delays that left manufacturers with excessive inventories that needed to be liquidated.
Marshal has followed retail trends for more than 30 years, at NPD and as the head of leading fashion and apparel manufacturers as well as major retailers. As part of his work at NPD, Marshal leads many top firms in long-range and strategic-planning sessions. He often utilizes motivational presentations to help launch corporate goals and kick-off meetings. He is also the author of two books, “Why Customers Do What They Do” (2006) and “Buy Me! How to Get Customers to Choose Your Products and Ignore the Rest” (2010). Whether you are a manufacturer, wholesaler or distributor, Marshal’s perspective on the state of the industry will apply to your business.
Until next time, remember what I always say: if you’re not having fun, then go do something else!
mannpublications.com April 2023 FM | 33 FINANCE
Flashback:
GLOBAL SWIMWEAR MARKET PROJECTIONS FOR 2023
BY LAURIE MELCHIONNE
Photos courtesy of Unsplash
Throughout 2022 and 2023 so far, if there’s been one word consistently used to describe financial markets and global trade relationships, it’s been “volatile.” Between COVID-related economic restrictions and the retail industry only just beginning to recover from supply chain gridlock (as recently as August of last year, according to a 2022 Forbes article by Gary Drenik), stability has been far from our vocabulary.
Recovery, however, has been a word that we’ve clung to. With the upcoming spring and summer seasons just around the corner, all eyes are on swimwear.
According to a recent report by the Global Industry Analysts, the global swimwear industry is expected to see a growth of 8.1% between 2022 and 2030. This takes the industry from $22.1 Billion in 2022 to a projected $41.1 Billion in 2030. While this growth is not exponential, it’s better than projected stagnant growth, especially considering recent hostilities with China and a potential economic plunge from the oil crisis due to the war in Ukraine.
China’s swimwear industry is expected to have a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 12.2% over 2022 to 2030, topping the U.S. market’s expectations. Coming in close behind China is Canada at 7.2%, and Japan at 4.5%. In Europe, Germany’s growth is predicted at 5.3% CAGR.
The low growth rates within these international markets are spurred by the economy’s unpredictability, underscored by the war and the everpresent retail inflation that has caused consumers to pinch their pennies during the day-to-day. “When inflation soars, consumer confidence in the economy often tanks,” said Q.ai, Forbes’ financial wealth writing team, in a 2021 article titled, “How Is Inflation Changing Spending Habits?” Forbes also reported that inflation skyrocketed to a staggering 6.4% in October, cited by the Bureau of Labor Statistics, which contradicts the Federal Reserve’s 2021 prediction that inflation would fizzle out by 2022.
On the other hand, the other side of unpredictability means that there is always room for hope. With shows like Miami Swim Week, Curve and Informa Markets’ Magic and Project merging brands from around the world in markets all across the country, swimwear season always marks an exciting transition between winter and spring collections. The constant buzz surrounding these traveling shows is sure to make an impact on buyers as they tour exhibits in search of the latest trends to drive growth in this popular season.
Swimwear also blends seamlessly with travel season, when consumers are more likely to splurge on the latest trends to flaunt on the beach during their well-earned vacations. And while inflation has caused retail at home to take a hit, the travel industry has certainly seen a boom. The U.S. Travel Association reported that 79% of leisure travelers are planning to travel for vacation within the next six months.
After all, people are spending less at home to treat themselves later in the year during vacation time; the pandemic sparked a hunger for traveling abroad. People treated themselves to bigger purchases while on vacation and even airports reported a growth in spending, with Straits Research projecting airport retail to reach $91,105 million by 2030, 12.8% CAGR in the analysis period of 2022-2030. With crowds facing tropical destinations in the warmer months ahead, swimwear is sure to reap the rewards of this demand.
Here’s to the upcoming swimwear seasons and analyzing growth forecasts as retail industries continue to navigate post-pandemic markets. If anything was learned from travel retail’s comeback after the pandemic, it is that the best results come when they are least expected.
FINANCE
The 70 th Top Hat Awards
APRIL 17 TH , 2023 | 5:00 PM - 8:00 PM
The Top Hat Award is a prestigious honor presented annually to an individual for lifetime achievement and dedication in the Credit Industry.
We are proud to recognize Melanie L. Cyganowski and Michael Stanley, who have reached new levels of achievement within our community. This year, we will celebrate their accomplishments with an award ceremony at New York Hilton & Towers.
Register at www.475toppers.com
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RICARDO BEVERLY HILLS LAUNCHES LUGGAGE ESSENTIALS LINE
Ricardo Beverly Hills, the Washingtonbased global luggage and travel accessories leader, is excited to announce the launch of their new Essentials 5.0 collection of organizational travel accessories featuring an antimicrobial fabric treatment called SteriTouch.
The new styles feature an innovative permanent technology that keeps the material’s scent fresh and clean with a natural silver salt antimicrobial treatment. Born of a collaboration with Polygiene, a chemicals company that utilizes fabric-freshening technology, the treatment is EPA-and FDA-approved and gets infused into the fabric during the weaving and molding process.
“SteriTouch gives you the confidence that potential pathogens, such as Staphylococcus aureus and E. coli, will be reduced in number to minimize the risk of infection,” said Jason Tetro, microbiologist and author of “The Germ
Code: How To Stop Worrying And Love The Microbes.”
Tetro added, “SteriTouch contains what was considered to be the world’s most trusted antimicrobial prior to the invention of antibiotics, silver. It has been proven in the lab to reduce the level of bacteria by over 99%.”
Laurent Bourscheidt, vice president of marketing at Ricardo Beverly Hills explained, “Integrating Polygiene’s antimicrobial solution SteriTouch to our new Essentials 5.0 line was a no-brainer. Ricardo Beverly Hills is committed to developing and bringing to market products that are aligned with consumer’s demands and pursue smart solutions when it comes to travel luggage and accessories.”
The packing organizers, some of which include see-through mesh lids, offer maximum organization and functionality.
The rip-stop polyester features a leak-resistant PVC lining that prevents spills from ruining
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FEATURE
The Vivian
Photos courtesy of Ricardo Beverly Hills
other items in your bag. Within the organizers, bottles and tubes are corralled with elasticized holders. The garment carrier, crafted from durable 600D polyester, features a liquid-resistant coating and multiple storage pockets that include mesh pockets on the interior with an adjustable hanger loop that keeps suits, dresses or packed items neat. The deluxe organizer even has a compartment for wet items like a still-damp swimsuit that needs to be packed in a hurry. It also has two separate compartments that lay flat for packing and ease-of-use at your destination. A laundry bag and shoe bag complete the collection.
Sean Tindale, CMO, and chief business officer at Polygiene said, “No one wants unnecessary microbes and odor to infest their luggage and this collaboration delivers a smart, sensible and sustainable solution that adds both freshness and product protection to their already impressive product lineup.”
The Essentials 5.0 Collections is available online at ricardobeverlyhills.com and at select national retailers. The manufacturer suggested retail price ranges from $9.99 to $140.00.
mannpublications.com April 2023 FM | 39 FEATURE
DOHENY DRIVE PAVES THE ROAD TO A NEW ERA OF SUSTAINABLE PRIVATE LABELS
IMAGES COURTESY OF DOHENY DRIVE
BY JOSEPH PASTRANA
The way to the future of branded merchandising is through Doheny Drive, a new Los Angeles-based apparel design and manufacturing company that checks all the boxes of what anyone and everyone needs to provide ancillary merch for their imaging and promotional needs. Its vertically integrated white label operations provide quality knit garments to a range of business entities and marketing activations – from fashion labels, concert tours, conventions and special events to hotels, museums, universities, restaurants, clubs and more.
“We’re excited to bring this next level wholesale production of merchandising and promotional apparel with a commercial appeal to modern consumers,” says Doheny Drive CEO Henry Viens. A significant aspect of their line is the ethically responsible and sustainable production capabilities that deliver a wide range of knits across multiple market categories.
The market demand for eco-friendly fabrics and sustainability has only been exponentially growing since the increased awareness of global warming and the importance of environmental responsibility in consumption. The Organic Trade Association reports that organic cotton production increased by approximately 10% while the knitted fabric market was valued at close to $56B during the preCovid lockdown. Research valued the Global Eco Fibers Market at $50.8B in 2021 and is projected to reach $81.1B by 2028. Market research in the meantime estimates that the womenswear segment should gain $162B of global annual sales by 2025. The growth in the apparel manufacturing market is coming from young consumers and this is where Doheny Drive is fi nding peak demand.
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Activities by concert tours and popular music artists and events have been particularly increasing. Viens agreed, “We created the VIP merchandise for Swedish House Mafia. And we realized that companies have this excellent opportunity to extend their branding message with items that stand apart from the average merch you can fi nd anywhere.” On the design front, their West Coast base also influences the laid-back aesthetic of its items which are named after LA landmarks: Bel Air hoodies, Topanga Ts, Sunset racer tanks and more. Growth in the sector of wholesale private garment label production has been fueled by the need of many companies and organizations that don’t have the time or investment capital to set up their own manufacturing and labor force. And fewer still are those that have any idea how much product development can take in terms of time and fi nancial resources. But all of them know that even with the advantage of having an already established image, more can be achieved by extending that built-in recognition with items fans and consumers take home with them and wear out in public for months and years to come. The question is how to fi nd the right company to produce the kind of items that can represent the brand with quality, dependability of on-time delivery and cost-efficiency to produce healthy profits. Doheny Drive has found the way.
The most common route taken by many companies is off-shore production because, on the surface, labor costs are attractive. But these are usually accompanied by unreliable deliveries, different legalities in different nations, uneven quality and even miscommunication due to possible language barriers. By manufacturing in Los Angeles, Doheny Drive avoids all those issues. And with its vertically integrated manufacturing, it is able to provide consistent quality assurance at all levels of the design and production cycle.
Another key advantage is Doheny Drive’s management by outstanding professionals who have all had extensive industry experience across various fields. CEO Henry Viens has been responsible for launching a leisurewear collection using premium domestic fabrication. He earned his bona fides during his tenure at Bolthouse Productions under mentor Brent Bolthouse and at William Morris Endeavor/IMG music division. His extensive experience encompasses fashion, entertainment and art, as well as working with major talents and brands like Levi’s and Lollapalooza. Head of Textiles and Engineering, Liza Perez is responsible for staying ahead of current advancements in domestic and international raw materials and textiles, and for overseeing partnerships with mills and the production process. Brand and Product Manager Othman Omar is a co-founder, who dedicates over a decade of his previous work to Doheny Drive by successfully developing e-commerce, brand marketing and product development for clients.
In terms of sustainability, Doheny Drive uses raw materials sourced from leading U.S. cotton suppliers that conform to strict standards of fair trade, environmentally-friendly practices and energy efficiency. No-waste knitting methods efficiently produce material of various weights including fleece, custom ribs, jerseys, French Terry and more.
The company offers its partner brands a wide array of the very latest styles in custom-developed colors according to official Pantone codes and not open-market fabrications. Each style is also available in Prepared for Dyeing (PFD) blanks that are organically processed using recycled water at the best dye houses. Its in-house capabilities can execute elaborate embroidery and screen, digital or direct-to-fabric printing. Each item from Doheny Drive undergoes rigorous testing for an excellent fit, pre-shrinkage, resistance and merchandise consistency to ensure the fi nest standards of quality and durability.
“The world is really changing and working with brands that understand that and know what their consumers are looking for is something we’re really passionate about,” added Viens. With sustainable practices, advanced production capabilities, dynamic designs and cost-effective pricing, it looks like all roads lead to Doheny Drive.
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FEATURE
FASHION AT HOME
Grandin Road Invites Customers to LOVE YOUR HOME MORE™ with a Fresh Spring Collection
Photos courtesy of Grandin Road
Grandin Road®, the online retailer for seasonal home furnishings and decor, has unveiled its Spring 2023 Collection, offering customers endless reasons to Love Your Home More with the new year and all the fresh possibilities it brings.
With its 2023 collection, Grandin Road is offering hundreds of new and exclusive home furnishings in lighter and brighter colors to make homes feel cozy and fresh. Notably, this year’s assortment debuts a significantly expanded line of seating for the kitchen, dining, living room and home office. It includes stunning accent chairs, with the ultimate comfort of swivel chairs and recliners, and more options in bar and counter stools than ever before. Additionally, the retailer is offering unique wall decor, plush rugs, lifelike wreaths and faux spring greenery, and more.
“Our customers look forward to spring as an opportunity to refresh, relax and recharge,” said Kristy Jones, vice president of merchandising at Grandin Road. “Our assortment of home furnishings was designed with that in mind. This spring, we’re inviting our customers to love your home more with our expanded collection of home furniture and decorations. We’re thrilled to give Grandin Road customers the opportunity to bring even more joy into their lives and their homes.”
Along with its largest-ever collection for spring, the team at Grandin Road has created resources and inspiration for styling the home in even more ways to love, including ideas for pairing foundational furniture with seasonal decor. With the ultimate comfort in mind, it is easier than ever to bring inspirational looks to life and transform your home this spring.
Start the new year fresh. Love Your Home More and shop the exclusive Grandin Road 2023 Spring Collection now.
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FEATURE
DONNA LEAH DESIGNS SPOTLIGHTS 1970’S DISCO VIBES THIS SEASON
Miami-based evening wear and chic casual brand Donna Leah Designs has always been about allowing women to express their personalities through their clothing choices. No other era embraces this spirit more than the 1970’s.
“The 1970’s was a groundbreaking chapter in the book of fashion history. It was a time of cultural and social change which was reflected in the fashion trends of the time. It was a time of experimentation and individualism. Prior to that time, clothing was most often sold as an ensemble. In the 1970’s that all changed and mixing and matching separate pieces became the modern way to shop,” explained designer Donna Leah.
She continued, “The fashion of the ‘70s was characterized by bold prints, bright colors and new silhouettes. It was also all about disco which is a passion of mine. It seemed only natural to include pieces with a vintage vibe in my latest collection.”
Divine Disco
In particular, Donna Leah is inspired by her love of disco, one of the most iconic fashion trends of the ‘70s. Characterized by glitter, sequins and metallic fabrics, this trend was inspired by popular music and the dance scene at places like Studio54. Paying homage to that time, Donna Leah Designs’ Silver Rain Goddess is a luxurious hoodie inspired by the shimmer of a disco ball. “Music inspired fashion in so many ways. I have always had a passion for disco and when I saw this fabric, I knew that it had to be a part of my next collection,” said the designer.
Retro Fabrics that are Simply Fab
Everything new is 1970’s again with rust and orange color palettes top of mind. Fabrics with textures from this decade are staging a comeback with a certain amount of fl irtation, experimentation and playfulness. A strong aesthetic for the decade is a focus on nature and that’s why we see so much orange, yellow and green. Donna Leah Design’s Marigold Hoodie speaks to this popular color and is also a nod to “flower power.” Leah explained, “The nature in Miami, particularly the ocean and stunning sunsets, have been particularly inspiring to me as I select colors for each season. When I look back on the 1970’s, it’s a different color palette, but still it’s about nature. That’s what I want people to take away when they see the Marigold hoodie.”
Perfect Prints
One of the most exciting elements of the 1970’s are the prints. A signature of the time were exotic prints in bright colors. “This was a time when women wore their clothes and not the other way around. That’s why a hoodie seemed like the perfect platform to channel my 1970’s inspiration,” added Leah. The Swirling in Blues hoodie is a modern interpretation of a classic retro print. Like the 1970’s it’s easy to wear and lets women express their true selves.
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FEATURE
Photos courtesy of Donna Leah Designs
Garment District Alliance Honors History with Big Bu on Sculpture
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Manhattan Borough President Mark Levine, Council Member Erik Bottcher, DOT Commissioner Ydanis Rodriguez, SBS Commissioner Kevin D. Kim & more community members joined the Garment District Alliance for a special ribbon-cutting ceremony.
The Garment District Alliance (GDA) unveiled its new Big Button sculpture in the heart of the Garment District, on Seventh “Fashion” Avenue at 39th Street, replacing what had been an information kiosk with a new public art installation. The Big Button sculpture pays homage to the neighborhood’s storied history, while using colors and materials that evoke the hustle and bustle of today’s modern Midtown Manhattan neighborhood.
“We’re thrilled to unveil the newly designed Big Button sculpture, which sits prominently in the heart of our neighborhood and serves as a welcoming symbol of the Garment District for New Yorkers and visitors,” said Barbara A. Blair, president of the Garment District Alliance. “This is a significant moment for the Garment District, and I’m so proud to celebrate this incredible public art installation with the community and the individuals who helped bring this new vision to life.”
Like its namesake industry, the Garment District has played an important part in shaping New York City into what it is today. Driven by the grit and entrepreneurship of immigrant workers who came to New York in waves throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, the garment industry became the backbone of the city’s industrial labor force. When the Garment District neighborhood was established in the 1920s as a dedicated home for the industry, overcoming immigrant discrimination and inhumane working conditions, the area quickly skyrocketed to become the beating heart of the apparel world. Today, the Garment District remains the home of American fashion, as well as other entrepreneurial industries that help to fuel the creative energy of the neighborhood.
Celebrating this neighborhood with the Big Button sculpture, the GDA marked the momentous occasion with a ribbon-cutting ceremony, which featured music by Diverse Concert Artists. New York City leaders and members of the Garment District community gathered for the event, including Manhattan Borough President Mark Levine, Council Member Erik Bottcher, New York City Department of Transportation (DOT) Commissioner Kevin D. Kim, President of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) CaSandra Diggs and President of the Kaufman Organization and Vice Chairman of the Garment District Alliance Board of Directors Steve
COVER FEATURE
The Garment District Alliance unveiled the new Big Button sculpture with a ribbon cutting event.
Designed by Local Projects and Urban Art Projects (UAP) the new version of the Big Button is supported by a “thread” element that further articulates its pop art concept. The sculpture is 28 feet tall with a 15-foot diameter aluminum button and 32-foot brushed stainless-steel needle, creating a dynamic experience for pedestrians, while improving sight lines and enhancing pedestrian flow on Seventh Avenue.
An original kiosk structure was removed to make way for the new sculpture. Built in the 1970s through a public-private fashion industry initiative, the kiosk was operated as an industry information center for more than a decade. Like the new sculpture, the kiosk lived in the public and private realms, sitting partially on the city sidewalk and partially on the Seventh Avenue plaza of 1411 Broadway, which today is managed by Hines.
When the Garment District Alliance was formed in 1993, it was given permission by the adjacent property and the City of New York to renovate the structure and rededicate its use as a business-to-business fashion industry resource center and information kiosk staffed by the BID. The renovation, which concluded in 1996, included the addition of a distinctive rooftop button and needle sculpture designed by James Biber, then of Pentagram Architects, which became an instant icon for the neighborhood.
“What is so gratifying is that the iconic Big Button remains, even as it changes color, changes support and even changes use,” said James Biber, principal of Biber Architects. “It has moved from a curiosity to a meaningful icon of the city, reminding us of a time when racks of clothing clogged the streets and the Garment District produced nearly ¾ of all women’s and children’s apparel in the United States. We are honored to have started a tradition, planting an iconic marker in the center of the Garment District. Symbols matter, history matters and we hope that never changes.”
Twenty years later, in 2017, GDA engaged Local Projects, the experiential design firm, to explore content and design concepts for the future of the kiosk. Interviews and workshops were held with stakeholders, including GDA staff and board members, business owners, fashion
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Manhattan Borough President, Mark Levine, began his remarks by noting that the Big Button is New York’s hot new Instagram spot before going on to describe the importance of the Garment District neighborhood.
industry professionals, landlords, city officials and representatives from Manhattan Community Board 5. Through this process, it was concluded that, while a physical kiosk was no longer necessary due to the growing ubiquity of personal mobile devices, the Big Button is a beloved neighborhood icon that should remain and be enhanced as a pop art sculpture and placemaking amenity. GDA’s intention was to reuse the original sculpture, but structural damage made it necessary to fabricate a new Big Button, which created opportunities to explore a contemporary interpretation of the beloved classic, using new materials and colors.
“We want to encourage visitors to pause and be curious about the history of the neighborhood, so the new design contains nods to the district’s past, present and future. The magical thread draws its strength from the passion and ingenuity that form the fabric of our great city,” said Nathan Adkisson, creative director at Local Projects. With its similarity to the NYC taxicab, the button’s bright yellow feels at home amid the hustle and bustle of this busy midtown neighborhood. It is also reminiscent of the NYC subway icon which adds another layer of symbolism that references the history of this working neighborhood. In 2018, GDA selected UAP, an international design-build fi rm that brings works of art to life in public spaces, to head the new sculpture design development and fabrication team that also included Technical Artistry on lighting, as well as Theta Structural Engineering Consulting and McLaren on engineering.
“UAP is proud to have been a guiding force in the reimagining of this iconic artwork,” said Susan Kosor, senior project manager at UAP. “After a five-year process – including design, engineering, fabrication and coordination with multiple city agencies and stakeholders – we are thrilled to see the freestanding, yellow button come to life.”
Hines welcomed the new installation and provided technical assistance and support to ensure the new sculpture would blend seamlessly with the plaza.
“For years, the Big Button structure marked the Garment District’s status as the fashion capital of the world. Hines is proud to play a part in making sure this symbol will be a permanent installation for future generations and is committed to implementing public art throughout its portfolio to create lively and inviting streetscapes,” said Jason Alderman, senior managing director and head of the New York office of Hines.
The Garment District Alliance also worked closely with the New York City Department of Transportation (DOT) throughout the development of the new Big Button. “DOT is excited to celebrate the unveiling of the newly designed Big Button sculpture, an iconic symbol of the Garment District’s history,” said NYC Department of Transportation Commissioner Ydanis Rodriguez. “We are proud to have worked closely with the Garment District on this elegant redesign of public space that will improve sight lines and enhance pedestrian flow and safety.”
The new Big Button sculpture is the Garment District’s fi rst permanent public art installation. Previous temporary installations by the Garment District Alliance have included work by Chakaia Booker, Kang Muxiang, Del Geist and Patricia Leighton, among other prominent artists from around the world.
The Garment District is home to diverse business sectors from technology to hospitality and includes thousands of people working in the creative economy, including fi ne and performing artists, designers, architects, photographers and more than a hundred theaters, galleries, performance spaces and studios.
COVER FEATURE
Photos courtesy of Alexandre Ayer/@DiversityPics for the Garment District Alliance
April 2023 FM | 49
Ron Ben-Israel, of Ron-Ben Israel Cakes and a GDA Board Member, strikes a playful pose after the Big Button ribbon cutting.
ARMITRON VINTAGE ARCHIVE COLLECTION LAUNCH IS A NOSTALGIC THROWBACK TO THE BRAND’S PAST
Armitron turned back the hands of time by releasing their Vintage Archive Collection of rare timepieces from the 1970s through the 1980s. A dazzling must-have and a rare peek into the vault of the watch creators’ groundbreaking and elite history, the Vintage Archive Collection is a nostalgic reflection of the brand’s past, with 22 rare watches pulled from the Armitron vault. These one or two-of-a-kind watch designs are available for sale on a first-come, first-serve basis.
The 22 pieces are exclusively found on Armitron.com and are priced within Armitron’s famed affordable luxury standards, ranging from $85$125. This highly curated collection of watches represents timeless design and quality craftsmanship. These never worn, hand-selected watches from the Armitron archives have been polished and restored to their original beauty and functionality. All original timepieces feature a stainless steel case, and some include a diamond crystal accent.
Each watch will arrive in a hand-stitched black leather case along with a certificate of authenticity. These watches blend nostalgia with modern sophistication for a treasured timepiece for years to come.
E. Gluck Corporation manufactures watches under their flagship proprietary brand, Armitron. The company also manufactures watches for major fashion brands, including Anne Klein, Nine West, Juicy Couture, Vince Camuto, Badgley Mischka and Joseph Abboud. In 1999, Armitron had the fifth largest share of all watch purchases, by brand, in the United States. Armitron ranks as one of the leading fashion watch brands in
the U.S. and helped set the industry standard for manufacturing digital watches with LCD displays.
“Fashion is in flux, but Armitron is consistently keeping time at the ship’s helm,” stated Bobbie Weichselbaum, CEO of E. Gluck Corporation.”We have some notable collaborations on the immediate horizon. With a launch into new designs, it seems fitting to reflect and release a few limited vintage watch designs from 40+ years ago that enabled us to bring our prestigious brand to where it is today.”
The Armitron Vintage Collection launch honors the brand’s beloved founder, Eugen Gluck, a leader in the watch industry since 1956, and makes high-quality, beautifully designed timepieces accessible to all. Gluck believed a watch was for more than just keeping time. Armitron watches were designed to signify dignity, self-expression and a life well-lived and loved.
Armitron was historically identified by its connection with various professional sports teams and professional athletes. Jerry Rice, Boomer Esiason, Darryl Strawberry, Dwight Gooden, Larry Bird and others were endorsers of the brand. Today, Armitron remains an Official Timepiece of the New York Yankees.
For more information on Armitron and their Vintage Archive Collection, please visit armitron.com.
50 | FM April 2023 mannpublications.com
FEATURE
Photos courtesy of Armitron
SUZY LEVIAN UNVEILS NEW SUNGLASSES COLLECTION INSPIRED BY RETRO MOTIFS
Suzy Levian continues to grow and evolve her brand to meet the style demands and individualism of the contemporary woman. Her entire collection, from jewelry to home décor, is designed to be worn and displayed today and well into the future—classic items that are also relevant to a modern lifestyle. Levian’s jewelry collection appeals to strong, independent women that desire pieces they could wear every day. After her fi ne jewelry collection launched, she created offshoots of the brand’s precious metals and gemstones to include silver and cubic zirconia pieces crafted with the same precision. She then began designing accessories for the home and for the body. Her latest endeavor is sunglasses in a myriad of shapes, colored lenses and frame motifs.
“I strive to be the designer who creates head-to-toe-pieces that every woman will want to own, including jewelry, handbags, accessories and now sunglasses,” says Suzy Levian. “I have always loved being able to dress up and down, and many times that includes wearing shades, depending on my mood and what I choose to wear on any given day.”
Levian believes that the shape of sunglasses expresses a sense of style, a feeling of strength and should always make a personal statement. Within her new collection, there is no clear defi nition of what each shape means; rather the sunglasses represent a fashion statement that appeals to each woman on different levels.
Like all of Levian’s collections, the sunglasses are replete with “the secret diamond” crystal hidden within them, encouraging women to discover the diamond within themselves.
The collection includes a range of iconic shapes that call back to 20th century sunglasses styles, including cat eye, aviator, large squarish and oversized round shapes. While some looks are more serious, others come with a sense of play and whimsy.
Levian’s love for colorful, gem-intensive designs inspired her affi nity for colorful frames. The goal of empowering women to feel attractive and bring out their best selves inspired the motifs. If you look closely, you will fi nd that the colors and patterns in her sunglasses can also be found in her jewelry
collections. Pink is one of the most relevant colors seen this year, and Levian has built a collection of shades based on pink sapphires for various tones of the pretty, feminine hue. Her Suzy Levian Women’s Light Pink Oversize Square Lens Silver Accent Sunglasses evoke a ‘50s glamor while still being in-the-moment. The soft pink frames and darker pink lenses complement each other and many different skin tones. Floral motifs blossom on the frames, which are inspired by the botanical jewelry in the collection, such as the Suzy Levian Women’s Clear Floral Oversize Sunglasses. These tend to be the more feminine and fl irtatious motifs in the sunglasses collection.
Aviator sunglasses were originally designed for U.S. aviators in 1937. This style of sunglasses is timeless, rendered by Levian in a range of precious metal colors in the frames and gemstone colors in the lenses, as in the Suzy Levian Women’s Blue Reflector Mirrored Aviator Classic Gold Frame Sunglasses.
The iconic cat eye sunglasses in tortoiseshell are inspired by brown diamonds in Suzy Levian’s collection. They are chic, imbued with a sensuality that has been worn by legendary actresses throughout the 20th century. The Women’s Brown Tortoise Square Cat-Eye Lens Gold Chain Sunglasses capture all the details of a classic, with Suzy Levian’s powerful details for the women who prefer their individual style to shine through. Abstract splashes of color comprise the more whimsical and playful frames influenced by the colorful gems within the collection, as featured in the Suzy Levian Women’s Purple Tortoise Round Lens Silver Accent Sunglasses. Suzy Levian’s solid black sunglasses are also a nod to her black diamond jewelry, like the Women’s Black Oversize Square Lens Silver Accent Sunglasses.
The new sunglass collection is a perfect complement to the brand’s accessories and jewelry, designed by a masterful designer who possesses an uncanny eye and feeling for what women of all demographics want to wear.
To shop the Suzy Levian Sunglass Collection, visit suzylevian. com/collections/sunglasses, call 516-918-9998 or email customerservice@suzylevian.com.
52 | FM April 2023 mannpublications.com
Photos courtesy of Suzy Levian
FEATURE
FEATURE
The Secret Diamond, next to a pair of Suzy Levian Sunglasses
Suzy Levian Women’s Black Floral Oversize Lens Sunglasses
Suzy Levian Women's Pink Reflector Mirrored Aviator Classic Gold Frame Sunglasses
Take
a Look Behind the Curtain at
SEI LESS
By Lauren Schuster
FEATURE
hether you’ve seen its glowing pink sign on West 38th street or you’ve seen it tagged in your favorite rapper’s latest Instagram post, there’s no denying that Midtown hotspot Sei Less has generated incredible buzz. Since its opening in January 2022, Sei Less has seen everyone from the New York City Mayor Eric Adams to rappers like Cardi B and French Montana sitting at its tables.
The powerhouse team behind Sei Less includes Joseph Licul, co-owner of Harbor Rooftop Nightclub; Dennis Turcinovic, former managing partner of Delmonico’s Restaurant Group and co-owner of Harbor Rooftop Nightclub; Dara Mirjahangiry formerly from Jue Lan Club and Philippe Chow; Ivi Shano formerly from Jue Lan Club and George Karavias of Dream Hospitality.
“I’ve been in this space, since 2011, of high end Chinese food,” Mirjahangiry said. “This is the fourth restaurant I’ve operated, and it’s the first one that I owned. I’ve kind of taken some of the things I’ve learned from each of those experiences, and I think Sei Less is the culmination of the best of all of those.”
“The goal was to create a private, intimate space where like-minded individuals could come out to eat dinner, have business meetings, come to before a sporting event, before a Broadway show. All types of businesspeople, but not in a formal business setting,” added Mirjahangiry. “We quantify it as fun fine dining.”
This intimate setting makes Sei Less the perfect spot for private party groups to thrive.
With all the private rooms throughout the restaurant, Sei Less is able to host curated dining experiences for groups, from small tables for an intimate setting or larger crowds for a lively, upbeat event.
Mirjahangiry said. “We do large groups, anything from 10 to 100, 200, 300 people, but our sweet spot is probably the 10 to 20 [person] groups where we put them in
Wthese rooms, and they have a great time. We are a family-style restaurant, so everything is about sharing.”
This friendly and upbeat atmosphere carries throughout the restaurant. “All of the food dishes are vibrant and colorful, and so are the people that come here, and so is the art work,” Mirjahangiry said.
The artwork is a key part of the carefully curated vibe at Sei Less, where they have worked to seamlessly blend elements of both traditional Asian and modern hiphop interior design styles. “The art, [with] an artist that we’ve known for a few years, Ricky Heeraman, is pop-art. So, we try to incorporate some things that relate to the culture and society [in the art],” Mirjahangiry said. “The keyhole is our logo, so that’s a big part of the incorporation.”
With the team behind Sei Less consisting of some of the biggest names in the hospitality industry, it’s no surprise that the restaurant’s opening was well received amongst the celebrity set.
“I’ve been taking care of a lot of the celebrities that come here for over 10 years, and then we’ve also got some new celebrities here that have never been in any of our venues before,” Mirjahangiry said.
“There’s a whole new brand of music artist and athletes that are new to Sei Less and all they know is Sei Less; they don’t know the other restaurants.” Mirjahangiry continued. “What we do for them is we give them privacy, which is the most important thing. Hospitality, it’s a fun atmosphere, you know. They love the food, and I think we’re very social media friendly. [and] that’s something that’s been captured in our marketing.”
After the tremendous success they saw within their first nine months of business serving dinner, the Sei Less team has now added lunchtime to the restaurant’s hours.
“We didn’t originally open for lunch. We waited until after the summer, and we’ve had a pretty positive reception from the locals with our lunch,” Mirjahangiry said. “We have a $30 lunch special, but most of the people actually don’t even order the
lunch special. One of the good things in terms of lunch is that with Chinese food it’s fast-paced, so you’re not rushed, but if you need to come and eat a meal in 30 minutes, you can be in and out of here.”
While the atmosphere is a key part of Sei Less’ success, like any good restaurant, the menu is equally as important for bringing in long-term customers.
“I’d say our most popular is the chicken satay that has a peanut sauce,” Mirjahangiry revealed. “But honestly, there’s something for everyone. There’s a lot of people that don’t like seafood or people that are vegetarians, so there’s something for everyone on the menu and the fact that everything is shared, you can try a bunch of different things.”
Following Sei Less’ incredible success, the team behind Sei Less has no plans to stop there. The team is planning on opening a new restaurant/lounge by the name of Sinsei in the NoMad area next year.
“Sinsei, it’s a play off of Sei Less, but with a little bit of sinful, loungey [atmosphere],” Mirjahangiry said.
The Sei Less team is also working on launching a Sei Less merchandise line.
“It’s going to be designed by Gemo Wong. He’s a famous designer in streetwear culture,” Mirjahangiry said. “He’s done stuff with Jordan, Christian Dior, Travis Scott with Cactus Jack. We’re trying to do an elevated merchandise line, not your average t-shirt or hoodie, but something that’s a little more elevated and exclusive, similar to our brand.”
The team also plans to continue doing special events outside of their normal location, meeting with their fans wherever they are.
“We’re going to be doing more pop-ups at Art Basel and NBA All-Star Weekend, things that cater to our clientele and our crowd, [which is] a younger demographic,” Mirjahangiry said. “Then there’s also that 65-year-old person that loves the Knicks that comes here for a pre-game meal, so honestly, it’s appealing to everyone as long as they like to have a good time.”
Photos courtesy of Sei Less
THE FASHION MANNUSCRIPT PRESENTS: TECHWEAR
Bringing you the latest breakthroughs in software, I.T. and fashion technology. From creative solutions to insights from experts, we are the source for all things fashion tech.
ZOZOFIT, THE CUTTING-EDGE, WEARABLE AT-HOME 3D BODY
SCANNER, TO HOST IMMERSIVE POPUP IN AUSTIN
rendering and highly-precise body measurement in just minutes, making it convenient for professional and amateur athletes to use at home.
ZOZOFIT’s cutting-edge technology helps individuals track their fitness and body transformation progress over time with unparalleled accuracy and ease. When connected with the free app that has unlimited scanning, ZOZOFIT allows users to obtain key health information, including precise measurements for 10 locations on the body, calculated body fat percentage and an interactive 360body view. The state-of-the-art wearable technology is designed to assist users on their fitness journey with easily accessible information, fitness-tracking data, share-ability and customizable goal-setting applications.
ZOZOFIT, the fitness technology brand, whose origin is the largest online fashion retail company in Japan and globally recognized fashion technology pioneer, activated an immersive pop-up in Austin, Texas at the W Hotel. The activation highlighted the world’s first affordable, at-home 3D body scanning technology, ZOZOFIT and the accompanying ZOZOSUIT. The ZOZOSUIT provides an accurate
“Following our recent expansion in the U.S. market, we’re thrilled to bring ZOZOFIT’s state-of-the-art and incredibly precise technology to the South by SouthWest (SXSW) attendees and the Austin community during a time when innovation and collaboration are at their peak,” said Utahiro Inui, CEO of ZOZO Apparel USA, Inc. “We understand that tracking your fitness goals while remaining motivated over time can be extremely challenging, especially when relying solely on weightbased metrics. We are proud to create technology that provides a better way for people to track progress whether in the comfort of your own home, or at the gym, by showcasing real change in increments as small as ¼ inch at a time.”
PERFECT CORP. LAUNCHES BRAND NEW AR 3D VIEWER AND 3D AUTHORING TOOL TO
ELEVATE VIRTUAL TRY-ON SHOPPING EXPERIENCE
Perfect Corp., the leading augmented reality (AR) and artificial intelligence (AI) beauty and fashion tech solutions provider, introduced an innovative 3D Viewer and 3D Authoring Tool for AR rings and watches.
The newly introduced 3D Authoring Tool technology automates SKU creation, allowing jewelry and watch brands to import industrystandard 3D model CAD files, easily add material textures to meshes, preview the 3D rendering in real-time and create both 3D Viewer and AR try-on experiences in one smooth workflow.
The 3D Viewer empowers watch and jewelry brands to create interactive online 3D product configurators equipped with an AR virtual tryon experience, providing consumers with an immersive and engaging way to personalize their ring and watch styles while shopping online.
Currently, numerous jewelry and watch brands are leveraging 3D technology to elevate
the online shopping experience and offer customers a more engaging and interactive way to browse and buy products. Perfect Corp has gone beyond the 3D experience by developing an intuitive cloud-based 3D Authoring Tool that allows jewelry and watch brands to convert their CAD models into AR try-on experiences.
The Authoring Tool increases the flexibility and reduces the cost of SKU creation, simplifying and streamlining setup for brands. In one simple workflow, brands can import industry standard 3D model files and easily apply materials on individual 3D parts in a highly-organized way.
58 | FM April 2023 mannpublications.com TECHNOLOGY FASHION 411
Photo courtesy of ZOZOFIT
Photo courtesy of Perfect Corp.
AÉROPOSTALE PARTNERS WITH METAVERSEPLUS TO INTRODUCE AEROWORLD DIGITAL WORLD EXPERIENCE
Fashion retailer, Aéropostale and Metaverse pioneer MetaversePlus are joining forces to bring the fashion brand to the Metaverse. Through the partnership with Authentic Brands Group (Authentic), a global brand development, marketing and entertainment platform, and the owner of Aéropostale, MetaversePlus will design, develop and expand the brand’s presence in Web3 through NFTs, world building and offering members-only perks and promotions.
The roadmap, which consists of four major phases, includes immersive shopping, socializing and gaming experiences. The first phase will focus on AeroPax. AeroPax is a collection of one-of-a-kind NFTs, which will build community and give members exclusive perks, including access to limited-edition apparel and VIP promotions. In celebration of the launch, Aéropostale is giving 10 lucky fans the chance to win
a Tesla. The 10 winners will be chosen at random, and no purchase is necessary. Be on the lookout on Aéropostale’s social channels for a sneak peak of the AeroPax. Additionally, all AeroPax purchases include a limited-edition hoodie (one per Aeropax, plus shipping/ handling fees).
“We’re excited to build an immersive and interactive experience for Aéropostale fans and anyone who craves individuality,” said Noah Loul, Co-Founder of MetaversePlus. “AeroPax is unique in that we’re creating an experience free from real-world limitations and societal standards.”
Those interested in early access to Aéropostale’s new VIP brand experience AeroWorld can sign up at aeropostale.com/aeropax.
PUMA PHASES OUT K-LEATHER WITH INNOVATIVE K-BETTER™ TECHNOLOGY
Puma has redesigned its legendary King football boot by introducing its new K-BETTER™ technology to deliver exceptional performance without kangaroo leather.
The Puma KING has been worn by legendary players such as Johan Cruyff, Diego Maradona, Eusébio, Lothar Matthäus and Pelé, who dominated international football for decades. Now the King is returning to the pitch supercharged with the latest Puma technology and for the first time ever made with K-BETTER™, a completely new, nonanimal-based upper material. The upper contains at least 20% recycled material as a step toward a better future.
K-BETTER™ has proven to outperform the previous KING K-Leather in testing for touch, comfort and durability. Puma is so convinced by the performance characteristics of K-BETTER™ that it will stop producing football boots with kangaroo leather altogether this year.
The King includes a lightweight removable sock liner with NanoGrip technology to
keep the foot locked in place to minimize any loss of power when changing direction. Supercharged for her, the new King follows on from the Future and Ulta with a custom women-specific fit. The new King women’s combines the latest King technology with measurements such as volume and instep
The new King will debut on the pitch with Granit Xhaka, Ingrid Engen, Nabil Fekir, Lena Lattwein and more. The new King debuts in the Puma King Supercharge edition, which will be on sale at Puma.com and in-stores.
mannpublications.com April 2023 FM | 59 TECHNOLOGY FASHION 411
Photo courtesy of MetaversePlus
height engineered for a woman’s foot.
Photo courtesy of Puma
WHY THE FASHION INDUSTRY NEEDS “ACTIVE LISTENING” NOW MORE THAN EVER
Expert tips for how fashion sector business leaders can readily address the root causes of stress and burnout and ultimately facilitate a culture of caring.
BY MERILEE A. KERN, MBA
60 | FM April 2023 mannpublications.com INDUSTRY INSIGHTS
Employee burnout is one of the greatest challenges facing the fashion industry—and the U.S. economy to the tune of $300 billion each year, according to the American Institute of Stress. Its studies show that nearly 83%, of U.S. workers suffer from work-related stress, with over half (60%) of worker absences directly related to that stress. Not only is this a significant drain on resources that drives avoidable opportunity loss, it’s also a major contributor to both mental and physical health problems. Relative to the fashion industry, specifically news headlines like Vogue Business’ “Does Fashion Month Make You Want to ‘Quiet Quit?’”, make industry pressures, even if seasonal, of clear concern.
Today’s modern management must take a topdown approach to support staffers, and not just hear what is being said but rather actively listen to it. For one, a Harvard Business Review study found that active listening is a key factor in improving leadership effectiveness, which in turn improves employee productivity, engagement and retention. Conversely, failing to do so presents a missed opportunity to address and resolve root causes of workforce stress and burnout.
With employee burnout so widespread, aptly addressing the issue can seem daunting for managers. However, the overwhelm of the issue can apparently be mitigated with a clarified understanding of common challenges that cause and exacerbate employee burnout. According to Adi Segal, CEO of Hapi.com, below are five red flags that can readily be identified and resolved through active listening.
1. Social Isolation: When employees feel isolated, they are more likely to experience anxiety, stress and burnout. The work from home culture has only exacerbated the issue. In fact, Airbnb’s CEO warned that “the most dangerous part of remote work isn’t lost productivity—it’s loneliness.” Active listening can help leaders identify employees who are struggling with this issue and take concerted steps to help them feel more connected to a manager and the team at large. Knowing that you “belong,” feeling that you are an important “part of something” and understanding that your contributions are valued can produce a powerful and positive mindset.
2. Relationship Issues: Whether with respect to friends, colleagues, family or a significant other, relationship problems can cause significant pain, trauma and strain that promotes burnout. By actively listening to employees, leaders can identify these kinds of issues and take proactive measures to address them before they become major problems—for the worker, department
and the company overall.
3. Mentorship Deficits: Mentoring is an essential part of career development, but it can be challenging to navigate for both mentors and mentees. Many companies today are stretched thin and workdays are overwhelmed with tasks and to-do’s that make “free time” elusive if not seemingly impossible. Even so, it’s imperative for leaders to engage in active listening moments to help identify these guidance gaps and provide the necessary support, direction, assessment and praise to keep staffers on the right track.
4. Socioeconomic & Financial Strife: Often, an employee pool represents a variety of socioeconomic factors and income levels. No matter one’s real or perceived stature or actual salary, everyone is at risk of struggling culturally and economically.
5. Sub-Par Problem-Solving: It would be an understatement to say that problem-solving is a critical capability to uphold in the workplace. In fact, The Forage cited problem-solving as the most important soft skill of 2022 with 86% of employers reportedly seeking this attribute on student resumes, according to the National Association of Colleges and Employers Job Outlook 2022 survey. Given that this vital skill is hampered by communication breakdowns, active listening can help leaders identify these shortfalls, and bridge those gaps by providing the necessary understanding, explanation, support and guidance to ensure everyone is on the same page.
According to Segal, “Even the most significant issues individuals, families and organizations face can be resolved with active listening, which needs to be more deeply embedded into our society—especially as most facets of our professional and personal lives move at lightning speed. Relative to corporate culture, better listening training is a quick and tactical way to demonstratively and quantifiably improve company culture, increase staff retention and boost the bottom line.”
Immediately Accessible Solutions
Addressing employee burnout and related productivity pitfalls are not rocket science. According to Segal, there are numerous tactical strategies to start addressing the issue right now. These include:
• Practice Makes Perfect: As with any skill, listening ability is correlated with frequency of use. Like working a muscle, it will get stronger over time. Similarly, leaders should regularly schedule and conduct sessions with their employees to actually practice “the art of listening” rather than just “hearing” what someone said.
• Train Your Team: There are numerous emotional intelligence and active listening courses leaders can provide individuals or their entire team. Just as the state mandates harassment training, business executives should make listening certification an important part of their professional development. Go a step further and make it a prerequisite or requirement for the job. If and when needed, expert trainers can be engaged to run active listening exercises, either in-person or virtually.
• Recommend Resources: Analysis by the National Safety Council (NSC) at NORC at the University of Chicago reveals organizations that support mental health see a return of $4 for every dollar invested. They’ve built a Mental Health Cost Calculator that can demonstrate and quantify the financial impact on your own company. Notably, the research also found that talking to strangers can supercharge happiness. With the advent of Certified Listening as a Service (CLaaS), managers can promote mental health apps and resources that increase access to care and human connectivity with 24/7/365 availability, lower the bar to entry and simply provide a safe space for team members (from the C-suite to the front line) to vent, relieve stress, get advice or bounce ideas.
Organizationally, leaders need to establish and build upon a culture of engagement, collaboration and trust. The kind that can only be compelled through true active listening so that employees feel heard, valued and supported in a way that impedes burnout. In turn, business and industry will realize an array of benefits, from increased productivity and higher staff retention rates to lower absenteeism and presenteeism exemplified by the “quiet quitting” trend.
Employee angst, stress and burnout is a significant business problem, and one highly viable—and relatively immediate—solution lies in the simple yet impactful act of active listening. By committing to this learned and nuanced skill, leaders can readily address the root causes of these issues and ultimately facilitate a potent culture of caring. Executives will quickly see the ripple effects as these improvements drive employee satisfaction and revenue growth.
mannpublications.com April 2023 FM | 61 INDUSTRY INSIGHTS
An organization’s culture, employees’ emotional connection to it and the power of the right benefits to support the culture are crucial to engaging employees and ensuring long-term success. “Organizational culture” may be an overused phrase, but culture and the employeremployee connection culture that it generates has become part of recruiting, retention and having the right benefits to engender long-term loyalty.
How important are culture and connection within an organization? It can make a major difference in candidate interest and employee satisfaction with an employer. Below are some insights on the importance of quality culture in the office:
• Mentioning culture in job postings increases engagement with the listing (67%).
• Nearly one-quarter of employees say they’ll leave if they’re not happy with an organization’s culture.
• In fact, 15% of job seekers will decline a job because they don’t feel comfortable with the organization’s culture.
Keeping workers in the communication loop helps them remain motivated and engaged.
EMPLOYEE CULTURE’S PIVOTAL ROLE IN BENEFITS
By Frank DeLucia, HUB International
Employers with effective communications are 50% more likely to have lower turnover. Culture and connection are important elements in building a benefits strategy based on Quality Employee Experiences (QEX). This approach emphasizes the experience that employees have with the organization and how benefits can improve the quality of those experiences.
The importance of culture and connection is magnified by its role in the employee experience with benefits. Using technology and analytics, employers need to understand the needs of their employees, particularly the needs of individual employees. Leaders can benefit from understanding what elements make up their organization’s culture and simply recognize what their culture actually is. For example:
•“Caring” cultures emphasize a familial environment and will offer family-centric benefits. Such a culture could cover costs for fertility treatments, surrogacy services and adoption.
• “Learning” cultures put an emphasis on personal and employee development, through education, development plans, consistent employee evaluations, educational reimbursements and sabbaticals.
•“High-performance” cultures are all about delivering value on time and under budget, whether that’s to customers, internal clients or vendors. These cultures make benefits robust and easy to choose. This also keeps the benefits from being overly complex. A common misconception is that employees love their work, the company and its brand, but often employees are connected to their teams and teammates more than the organization itself.
Understanding the difference is important.
Organizations should focus on strategies that reinforce the connection with teams or alter it with benefits that deliver on QEX’s promise. Ultimately, organizations should examine their employee culture in the workplace and determine what makes it that way, rather than imagining their culture as something it is not. Here are some best practices on evaluating and strengthening culture:
• Organizations should assess their cultures and see how well they are connecting to employees. This can require an honest evaluation of what leaders believe their cultures to be and what they truly are.
• Through analytics and data collection such as surveys and focus groups, organizations need to understand where employees are professionally and personally. This should inform the nature and strength of their relationship with the company and point the way to benefits that strengthen connection.
• Organizations should consider benchmarking against other organizations that have fostered similar cultures, which can help identify benefits that align with the organization’s culture and improve connection.
Frank DeLucia currently serves as senior vice president of HUB International Northeast, a leading full-service global insurance brokerage. With over three decades of experience, Frank specializes in building insurance and risk management programs for the real estate and apparel industries and is a long time active member of the Fashion Service Network (FSN). Frank can be reached by phone at 212-3382395 or at frank.delucia@hubinternational.com. For more information on HUB, please visit www. hubinternational.com.
62 | FM April 2023 mannpublications.com COLUMNS
A NEW VIEW As we enter New York’s next chapter, our commitment to the City’s vitality, to our community, to our partners, to our tenants, and to our portfolio remains steadfast. We look forward to a bright and shared future. Ownership/Management/Leasing • Tenant Representation Agency Representation • Co-GP and LP Real Estate Investments Scott Galin, Principal/CEO | 212.398.1888 | Handler-re.com HANDRO PROPERTIES LLC | ESSH INVESTMENTS LLC
LEADERS: LEAN INTO GROWTH
LEADERS: WHAT WILL YOU HAVE TO MASTER?
by Donna Johnson-Klonsky, MBA
By Donna Johnson-Klonsky, president of DJ Consulting Services Inc.
the transition from primarily in-person to virtual meetings. Many of us had to up-level our skills to ensure our teams thrived in the new environment. I do not know about you, but the experience made me more efficient and versatile in engaging on various platforms. Likewise, when creating sustainable growth, we need to be forwardthinking and adaptable to gain an edge over change. To avoid being growth-resistant, below are three mindset shifts to create substantial internal and external expansion in your business or career.
Instead of being deflated by the outcome, you look to grow from the experience. Others are drawn to your willingness to “fail forward” toward future success.
Others’ Relationship With Change
According to “Business Volatility, Lean Into Growth” by Jan Bruce, contributor, Forbes, Leadership, Leadership Strategies (online magazine), “In this fast-changing world, if you can’t grow, you can’t keep up. Growth is the way—the only way—to make the most of change for any of us as business leaders, individually and collectively.”
As you climb the ladder to the highest platform, take a moment to listen to your thoughts and feel your emotions. You have victoriously emerged from your change, eager to master your world.
How Can You “Lean into Growth?”
second snare, can appear when satisfaction with current achievements outweighs our motivation to push ahead. Can you picture a time when you lingered in a comfy chair even though you had other pressing matters to attend to? Cruising, the final pitfall, is similar but stems from a different cause. While Placeholder is based on a lack of motivation to move beyond the current position, Cruising stems from a fear of the unknown. In that snare, difficult actions outside our comfort zone are avoided because of fear of failure or what others might think. Do you recognize any of these snares? If you do, connect with someone that can identify pitfalls you do not recognize, such as an accountability partner, mentor or coach.
and tools to conquer future changes, results in more clarity and focus. Remember: you have mastered a specific change, not your entire life. The more changes we can master, the greater our success. However, it does take time and patience. Many more victories will have to be won before you can experience mastery multiple areas of your life.
In my last article, “Leaders: What Will You Have to Welcome?” I shared the most significant characteristics of the eighth stage of change, “welcome.” In this article, I introduce the ninth and final stage, “master,” to help you determine if you are on this stage of the change process and what you could do next.
Proficiency & Expansion
For growth to occur, two things need to happen. First, we must heighten our awareness of areas where we have become so comfortable that our performance is more like a rerun than a new season. Next, we need to leave behind our comfort zone to go places we haven’t gone before. This article, the fourteenth in the series, continues to introduce the various Change Proficiencies, which are different strategies and techniques required to facilitate successful changes. It will present the “Lean into Growth” technique to help you refine thoughts and actions to remove barriers to achieving peak leadership potential.
To master your change, you have had to modify your overall relationship with change. Pay attention to others who are experiencing change. You must take time to analyze and comprehend how those who work closely with you respond to change. Their actions, which originate from their thoughts and emotions, are like road signs that can reveal where they are in the change process. This insight will improve your ability to navigate how their changes may impact your professional or personal goals. Listen intently, and compare their thoughts and actions to the knowledge you have gained from the change process. As a leader, application of this knowledge is vital.
Eliminate inconsistencies: Previously, I mentioned that leaning into growth requires removing subtle impediments. Those obstructions appear when there is a disconnect between what we know we should do and what actually happens. Maybe we feel threatened by a situation or person or feel pressured by the presence of others. Once, after being partnered with someone I felt was attempting to undermine my position, I frequently became easily irritated and often disagreeable while in their company. Later, I discovered the problem was primarily my insecurities. Have you been disappointed in yourself by your response to a person or situation? When that happens, instead of allowing self-limiting beliefs to root, put on your detective hat and investigate the circumstances that nurtured such a contradiction. Inconsistencies reveal our buried thoughts and beliefs. Explore what lies beneath. For continual growth to occur, we must dismantle discrepancies that can hinder our advancement.
If you believe you have reached the “master” stage in your change, congratulations! Now, ponder and choose another experience, and apply what you have learned about change to approach, process and master it. If you haven’t completed the “master” stage, I strongly encourage you to remain dedicated to working through your current change.
What Does it Mean to “Lean into Growth?”
In the “master” stage, you are proud of who you have become and look forward to further transformation. You are comfortable with disquieting memories that surround your change and share your feelings freely. You are confident that you have the knowledge, expertise and understanding to master other changes, which will ultimately lead to mastery in other areas of your life and strengthen your cherished dynamic energy.
Release From Fear of Failure
Can you recall the last time you leaned into an unexpected, strong gust of wind to avoid being knocked off balance? Do you remember the intensity, focus and determination needed? To “Lean into Growth” means positioning yourself to brave unknown changes to achieve new levels of accomplishments. It requires concentrated effort to reveal and remove subtle impediments to professional development. When you break free from counterproductive patterns, your ability to succeed accelerates.
Avoid snares: It goes without saying that hidden snares can stunt our professional development. These snares are insidious, and foreknowledge will help us avoid them or even escape. Coaching my clients have revealed three traps that frequently occur, which I have named Empty Calories, Placeholder and Cruising.
Through my clients, I have often heard that when their teammates’ and colleagues’ words and actions are misaligned, it frequently has to do with the disconnect between where they are in the change process and where their leader wants or needs them to be. You may need your team to evolve or embrace different professional situations or ways of performing their assignments, and they may still be trying to figure out how to stand up to or accept the change. A business coach can help bridge the gap between leaders’ expectations and their team members’ performance.
Permission to fail: At one time, I thought the greatest permission I could give myself was the permission to thrive. To believe in myself and what I was capable of no matter the time, circumstances or what others thought. I now know that while permission to thrive may be a pathway to success, permission to fail bridges the gap between good and great. How is permission to fail linked to the tool “Lean into Growth?” The word “lean,” which synonyms include tilt, slope and angle, implies one is a bit off balance. We can feel off-balanced when we purposely pursue something that might expose our vulnerabilities. However, when you explore uncharted territories, you give yourself a chance to learn and grow. To expand, you should infuse curiosity, wonder and experimentation into situations. Perhaps start with your personal life and then include professional areas. Ask yourself, have I purposely pursued a path where failure was an option? If the answer is no, are you truly leaning into growth?
As you go forward, remain alert to your thoughts and emotions, and align your actions so your dynamic energy will continue to blossom. From “stand up” to “master,” your journey through the change process has cleared away faulty perceptions for your specific change. As you select the next change, seek insight from those you trust. To upgrade your viewpoint, ask them questions about inconsistencies that may exist between your words and actions.
This article is the last in a series that highlighted the nine stages of the change process presented in my book, “Aspects of Change.”
Why Must You “Lean into Growth?”
As leaders, if we stay stuck to former ways of doing things, it can erode future possibilities. To remain competitive, relevant and successful, you must “Lean into Growth.” Perhaps you recall
One of the greatest freedoms is being free from fear of failure. When you reach the “master” stage, you are driven by curiosity of what could happen and are no longer held hostage mentally or emotionally to failure. After exploring the risks and rewards, you pursue goals with expectations of success. Even if you fall short of your objective, you are prepared to extract and apply what you have learned.
The first snare, Empty Calories, is often present when actions do not support our goals. Like our favorite junk food, thinking about them provides momentary pleasure without tangible benefits. For example, I remember when I announced I was writing a book. My colleagues, friends and family were impressed that I was pursuing such an undertaking. However, for a long time, no actual writing was being done. I was satisfied with the accolades. Placeholder, the
What Mastery Means
Mastery is demonstrated in many ways. Exceptional progress will be made because your actions are closely aligned with future goals, and you are committed to continual transformation. Your relative peace of mind amid uncertainty and fear, which stems from the confidence that you possess and the knowledge, insight
Leaders, it is impossible to successfully lead others to greater heights if we do not “Lean into Growth” ourselves. Without continual self-examination and elevation of our thoughts and actions, we cannot reach our full potential. Strive to eliminate inconsistencies, snares and fear of failure to enhance your ability to experience new internal growth and success.
The next series of articles will highlight the “art of change” and reveal the proficiencies you need to move from one stage of change to the next and create forward movement in any goals. No change can stand in your way when you apply these practices.
Donna Johnson-Klonsky, MBA DJ Consulting Services, Inc. djconsultingservices.com
Tel: (845) 447-1037
Donna Johnson-Klonsky, MBA, PCC DJ Consulting Services, Inc. East Fishkill, New York 12533 djohnson@djcsfirm.com
(845) 447-1037
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DEB’S RETAIL DISH
DEALS: SUMMER DINING SHAPING UP
AND
By Debra Hazel, president of Debra Hazel Communications
Fit & Fabulous
DEB’S RETAIL DISH AND DEALS: IT’S RAINING RETAIL
By Debra Hazel
Topgolf will open a three-level entertainment experience in Suffolk County in Brookhaven Township. The venue will feature 102 bays, yearround lessons, chef-driven dining, live music and private event rooms.
For Foodstuffs
retail space showcases Casetify’s accessories for the foldable Samsung Z Flip4. Casetify’s first New York City pop-up will also highlight the creative works of six talented GenZ fashion students, featuring a gallery of styled looks inspired by the brand’s Re/Casetify accessories and designs. In line with its mission of giving new life to old materials, the fashion gallery will be created using only thrifted or upcycled garments to be styled with the Samsung Z Flip4 cases.
meringue, caramel, mascarpone and Campari. At press time, chief Jarett Brodie was to debut Loulou, a French bistro at 176 Eighth Avenue in March. Among Brodie’s previous restaurants are Craft, Mercer Kitchen and Tribeca. In addition to traditional bistro foods, the space will include an underground speakeasy with a separate entrance. Ricardo Cardona, a chef to the New York Yankees and singer Marc Anthony, has teamed up with former Jean-Georges chef Carlos Letona to open Cuban-Asian fusion restaurant Aura Cocina at 315 Meserole Street.
Retail is in an experimental mode, with companies testing new concepts, and new locations as flagships are relocating to new neighborhoods.
All About Apparel and Accessories
This month is almost all about food, with a number of new entrants in all cuisines opening in time for spring or summer dining. But what may be most interesting is the commitment of two major luxury brand owners, LVMH’s Tiffany and Richemont’s Vacheron Constantin, to new and expanded spaces.
All About Apparel
Landlord Macerich has confirmed that value fashion retailers Primark and Zara are coming to Queens Center in New York City. Primark will occupy 54,562 square feet of multi-level space. Zara, too, is expected to open a multi-level location. Adidas opened its first Bronx store at The Mall at Bay Plaza. Look for Abercrombie & Fitch to come to 139 Fifth Avenue.
Tracking Trends
Fashion house Kenzo has taken 3,000 square feet at 107 Grand Street, about half of the space that housed Ted Baker until 2016. At press time, the remainder, with the address of 32 Mercer Street, remains available.
Just Gems
Trendspotting retailer Showcase has opened its milestone 150th store in Huntington Station, New York, capping a run of 31 new units across 13 states in the past six months. Showcase is a retailer, product developer and marketer, and specializes in new and hard-to-find consumer trends in health, beauty, home, toys, novelty candy and food categories.
Global lifestyle brand Casetify opened its first Casetify Style Lab at 43 Crosby St. in New York City, an immersive consumer-facing retail pop-up that brings fans an inside look at this spring’s hottest upcoming trends. The 2,400-square-foot
The Tiffany Flagship Next Door has opened at 6 East 57th Street, and it’s more than just a pop-up. The shop is adjacent to Tiffany’s flagship at 727 Fifth Avenue, which is undergoing a massive renovation to be completed in late 2021. Tiffany had already previewed the space with a men’s collection in the atrium over the holidays. Now, the temporary shop features the jeweler’s entire line over four levels, with private selling rooms on each floor and a VIP salon. Richemont clearly believes in the demand for luxury timepieces; its Vacheron Constantin brand will debut a boutique at 30 East 57th Street, nearly four times the size of its current location at 729 Madison Avenue.
Trader Joe’s will take the long-vacant Food Emporium space under the Ed Koch Queensboro Bridge at First Avenue and 59th Street, said published reports, pending Landmarks Preservation Commission approval (pending at press time). The space, known as Bridgemarket, was a produce market when it opened early in the 20th century. It features a Guastavino-tiled arcade and was landmarked in 1974.
Food, Glorious Food
Wining & Dining
Capriotti’s Sandwich Shop, known for its hand-crafted cheese steaks, turkey subs and more, opened a new location in Cranberry, Pennsylvania at 10 St. Francis Way. Husband and wife Brian and Merridith Murray will venture into their first business partnership together as the owners of the new Capriotti’s location.
That’s Entertainment
Look Cinemas will open a flagship location at Via 57 West, the Bjarke Ingles-designed luxury apartment property at 625 West 57th St. in Manhattan. Founded by Brian Schultz, a pioneer of the modern cinema-dining concept, Look Cinemas operates 10 theaters with approximately 100 screens located in Texas, California, Florida, Arizona and in Dobbs Ferry, New York. For its first New York City theater, Look will occupy 25,000 square feet of built-out space at Via 57 West.
Health and Home
Taqueria Tacombi has announced two locations, one at 202 East 70th Street and the other at 27-10 43rd Avenue in Long Island City. Look for more vegan food at Lekka at 81 Warren Street. The plant-based burger restaurant from chef Amanda Cohen and partner Andrea Kerzer will offer burgers, salads and even vegan soft serve for dessert, as well as a full bar with signature cocktails. P.F. Chang’s is opening P.F. Chang’s To Go, its new takeout concept at 60 Fulton Street, its first in New York City and second in the U.S. thus far (the first is in Chicago), this fall. Reportedly, more New York locations are planned. Very Fresh Noodles is venturing outside its home at Chelsea Market, opening its second location at 980 Sixth Avenue at West 36th Street. Avra is also growing again. The Greek seafood chain is reportedly opening a massive eatery over multiple levels at 1271 Sixth Avenue. It will be the company’s third location in the city.
TMPL, a fitness club, has taken 26,000 square feet at 200 Madison Avenue. Crate & Barrel reportedly is heading north, relocating its flagship from Houston Street to 881 Broadway.
Israeli gelato chain Anita Gelato will open its first U.S. location at 1561 Second Avenue this month. The gelato and yogurt maker has four locations in Tel Aviv and three in Sydney, Australia. Eater reports that the owners will bring flavors including tiramisu, popcorn with honey and Cookieman, which somehow combines hazelnut,
Around the U.S. Zimmermann will open its 21st store in the Ala Moana Centre in Honolulu on April 4. Posh Puppy Boutique, a woman-owned online dog retailer, has entered airport retail with an automated retail vending machine inside of Terminal B at the Harry Reid International Airport in Las Vegas. The kiosk is in partnership with Prepango, the automated retail and specialty vending company. The machine offers a limited selection of the thousands of items available online. Items were curated to be appropriate for calming dogs who may be anxious while traveling, practical needs like leashes and distractions like toys.
Gumption Coffee comes from Australia to its first location in Manhattan at 1155 Avenue of the Americas. It made its U.S. debut in Industry City in Brooklyn.
Be Well
EHE Health, the only national preventive health and primary care network in the U.S., has opened a 23,000-square-foot clinic at 600 Fifth Avenue in Rockefeller Center, relocating from 10 Rockefeller Center. The spa-like center offers services including full physical exams and follow-up services as well as 3D mammography. Maybe FiDi executives can get some rest; membership wellness chain Hydra Studios will open its first standalone location at 120 Wall Street. The concept is also located within Convene at 530 Fifth Avenue. That space offers a fitness studio, yoga and HIIT classes, beauty bars and grooming stations, showers, meditation rooms and nap suites.
Worth the Wait?
Coach opened Coach Play Chicago, a concept store design to increase interactivity, with plans to roll out globally over the next year. Medical professional skincare brand SkinCeuticals has opened the brands tenth SkinLab location, SkinCeuticals SkinLab by Cavendish Clinic, in the heart of Santa Monica, California. This new location, in partnership with SkinCeuticals’ U.K. partner, Cavendish Clinic, and overseen by double board-certified facial plastic surgeon, Dr. Keith Marcus, is the latest addition to the SkinCeuticals SkinLab network, joining existing locations including St. Helena, California; Stamford, Connecticut; Houston, Texas; Charleston, South Carolina; Palm Desert, California; Grand Rapids, Michigan; Scottsdale, Arizona; Miami, Florida and New York, New York.
Debra Hazel
Debra Hazel Communications
Target will open a 32,000-square-foot store at 10 Union Square East, but don’t look for the red symbol anytime soon. The space is still leased to Food Emporium through April 2023, the New York Post reported. That places the discounter’s opening at the holiday season of that year.
North Las Vegas, NV Tel: (201) 618-5247
Debra Hazel
Debra Hazel Communications
Arverne, NY 11692
debra@debrahazelcommunications.com 201-618-5247
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Our world is moving faster than ever. It seems that no sooner is a new collection launched that there is next month and next season’s deadlines to meet for even more new products. It does make one wonder, “How did all of those stores from the 1950s to the 1980s survive?” It’s not like the consumer then had a greater amount of expendable cash than consumers today.
Throughout the 20th century, retail stores survived because they had buyers on the sales floor who listened to their customers, and they embraced a rooted identity of style which they strived to uphold. They honed in on specific consumers, recognized their targeted consumer based and represented quality, value and uniqueness. Women, when you have never owned or worn a blazer with exaggerated large shoulder pads, red lipstick and high heels, the look is fresh to new eyes. Men, look to zoot suit tailoring to wing tips. These are some go-to trends that seem to have followed us since the 80s and are here to stay, with reinventions of the styles constantly providing fresh and engaging trends for new and young fashionistas everywhere.
Data from these 20th century trends can help inform the industry of its current state, and even predict future changes and styles. Collecting fashion data is crucial for brands and companies in the apparel industry to thrive in this everevolving, competitive world. Some questions to ask when analyzing data include: what styles,
THE LEGACY OF 20TH CENTURY FASHION TRENDS IN TODAY’S INDUSTRY
fabrics and brands sold best? I’m not referring to how a “planner” reviews a store’s previous sales…only to buy more of the same. With trends constantly evolving and adapting, thanks to the rapid consumption of news and developments with social media, data for the fashion industry is becoming more important now than ever before. In addition to how quickly everything changes today, it’s no secret that recent inflation has made everything more expensive. From sourcing materials to packaging and shipment, each decision a company makes regarding new styling for the next season can be like betting on a horse.
Today’s designers and companies look more intently on how consumers today live, work and play in order to incorporate technology and tailoring into next season’s collection. We all own an article of clothing which is our “go-to” item. Comfort, styling, durability and how it makes us feel when we wear these items are the underlying reasons for loving our “go-to” in our closet. Compliments are key to bolstering self-image.
Remember the phrase, “dress for success?” Today it is acceptable and lauded when one “finds their style.” Back to the data, no longer can one find quality replacements for good basics and novelty in a wardrobe. Thankfully, being fortunate to have had fabulous clothing allowances over the years has promoted “shopping in my own closet.”
If key brands pay attention to sales by style and fit, they just might find real money-making items that should be in the collection each season. Offer the consumer what they do not already own or what they need to replace. Finding inspiration from long-loved trends can be just the place to start fresh to reinvent classic looks. For example, the resurgence of Y2K, ‘90s and even ‘70s styles swept runways and collections in recent fashion seasons. Among Gen Z fashionistas, the hit HBO series “Euphoria” inspired these throwback looks.
From cinched tops to platform flip flops, these nostalgic trends found new life with 21st century twists such as hip-hugging mom jeans, skimpy scarf tops and necklace layering.
On the daily, I hear people wanting to spend their money but cannot find anything to buy. When I ask why, the response is usually something like, “I walked the entire store only to find one item I would like. . . only to have the sales staff tell us that it’s out of stock or to go to their website.” Another gripe is, “There are no longer enough specialty stores who represent curated views and new labels.”
Today, we see how retro styles are being reinvented and incorporate comfort. Dressing should make you feel good, uplift a mood or set the tone. Fashion is art. Our marketers will need to tell a deeper story behind the value and what goes into creating lasting design.
Let’s not homogenize our fashion; rather, let’s make sure we offer good guidance on styling and what is worth re-inventing. Elegance, whimsy and quality craftsmanship will always be current and important when discussing retro styling. Looking back helps us to move forward hopefully in a more thoughtful way.
Leslie Gallin is a board member of Footwear Distributors Representatives of America (FDRA), Two Ten Footwear Charity and From Fashion with Love.org among others holding positions at WorldShoeAssociation(WSA),GeoffreyBeene, Escada, Pauline Trigere and was awarded with Pattenmaker Livery acceptance by the City of London. Gallin has been featured in Footwear Plus, Footwear News, O the Oprah Magazine, Fox’s Good Day LA, Extra TV and more. Gallin can be reached at missfashion@cs.com.
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Artificial Intelligence and applications like ChatGPT are poised to fundamentally alter business as we know it – fashion and apparel is no exception. It is in these times of profound change, change that we cannot fully anticipate its impact, that it is vitally important to look back at the trends, practices and history of the fashion industry in order to better understand its future. As they say: “If you don’t know where you’ve come from, you don’t know where you’re going.”
What should change? What should stay the same? What should our values be moving forward so that we can help guide our industry in a rapidly changing and uncertain future? Speaking as a fashion technology entrepreneur, here are the areas whose past and current trends can benefit the most from A.I. and other emerging tech solutions.
Design: At its core, design is an expression of creativity and inspiration. As a designer, that should be accomplished in whatever way suits the creator. Technology is now available for the creation and design of 3D assets. This tech should be an extension of the design process, allowing for more collaboration, flexibility and optimization including waste minimization, especially in manufacturing.
Additionally, design technology will be critical to the metaverse. Though not currently ready for widespread adoption, the day of the metaverse is coming and with it will come an entirely new space for clothing design, creation and consumption.
HOW ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE HAS IMPROVED FASHION’S HISTORICAL TRENDS
By James Bloomfield, CEO, Moda Match
Manufacturing: Out with the old, in with the new! The fashion space, as it currently stands, contributes upwards of 10% of all global carbon emissions. That’s more than produced by all air and maritime travel combined. And this is only one aspect of the environmental damage of the industry. While returns are a huge driver of this problem, its roots lie in the overproduction of fastfashion, instead of long-wear investment pieces.
Manufacturing is an area that is in need of a wholesale technological change from top to bottom. The need for technology facilitating great quality control and assurance from factories, as well as production transparency, is clear. Working with digital assets means items can be more rigorously studied before thousands of pieces are produced that won’t ever be purchased, such as auto-generating marketready catalogs from a single sample item.
Photo Shoots: As long as there has been photography, there have been fashion photo shoots. While not as glaring a pain point as returns, photo shoots still represent a significant cost in time, capital and labor. Between studio space, equipment, photographers, editors, stylists, models and all the rest, photo shoots represent one of the great divides in fashion between those who have and those who don’t. A bigger brand will spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on photo shoots a year, while small and medium-sized brands have to make do with mannequins, flat lays, hangers and oftentimes accommodating friends and family. Digital imagery has the power to change all of that. Through A.I.-powered, photo-realistic images, we can dramatically cut down on image production time and costs while increasing control over the images themselves.
Modeling: The fashion industry has been historically and increasingly criticized for its lack of inclusivity, particularly in terms of proper
representation of different ethnicities, body types and gender identities. This problem has been compounded as diversity and personalization have become the ultimate goal of growing fashion brands, rather than the marketing tactics of yesteryear. It is easy to assume that the solution is to allow shoppers to be their own models – something that is being actively attempted within the fashion technology ecosystem. But, when it comes to people and our perception of ourselves, what seems easiest and obvious is often misleading.
We live in a time of increasing levels of mental health issues; insecurity, body dysmorphia, in addition to widespread unrealistic beauty standards, are often spurred by social media. Many shoppers (Gen Z and Millennials especially), don’t actually want to see themselves as a model, preferring a more aspirational look than their own image. This is a problem technology is now ready to solve. Personalization can now be achieved through digital models: easy to create, infinite in their diversity, and even more, never late to a photo shoot!
Fashion has always been a contradiction, an industry searching for beauty built on the ugliest of practices. Creativity, empowerment and expression are historical trends that deserve to stay, now and always. Everything else should be up for grabs such as the newer values of inclusivity, sustainable environmental practices and branding being responsible for leadership’s and sponsor’s behavior. It might be challenging to tackle everything, but if managed properly, technology can now make the fashion industry as clean and beautiful in its practices as it is in its products.
James Bloomfield Moda Match, co-founder and CEO james@moda-match.com Tel: +1 (514)243-8437
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ATLANTA APPAREL ANNOUNCES AUTUMN/WINTER ‘23 TREND REPORT
International Market Centers (IMC’s) in-house fashion office has released its Autumn/Winter ‘23 Trend Report, previewing colors, prints and styles retailers can expect to see while sourcing at spring and summer 2023 markets.
“Overall, there will be a stronger focus on versatile colors and shades that work across different occasions, while also having cross-seasonal appeal,” said Morgan Ramage, Atlanta Apparel fashion director. “Autumn/Winter ‘23 trends resonate with the new, more flexible lifestyles and the continued push for sustainability in the fashion industry.”
A Model showcases trending earth tones and metallics from Atlanta
Apparel brands
Dress: Milk + Honey; Boot: Reeves & Co.; Belt: Lori Veith; Necklaces: Yochi Inc; Earrings: Sheila Fajl; Bag: Marque Luxury
The key colors for Autumn/Winter are rooted in warm neutrals and deep darks and energized with hyper brights and soothing pastels. A few of the season’s top colors include Galactic Cobalt Blue; Astro Dust Earthy Red; calming and restorative greens; Malachite Green and other various jewel tones.
Must-have apparel items for next Autumn/Winter include pieces that utilize sustainable practices, outdoor living and a desire for care and community drive. Silhouettes and pieces include blazer coats; boudoir dresses and blouses; career-coordinating sets; drape dresses; dressy cardigans; maxi skirts; padded coats; pinafores; updated classic shirts; winter boho dresses; and winter trench coats.
Footwear trends follow the influence of the great outdoors, balanced with Y2K platforms, fresh sneaker styles and skate shoes with styles. Ontrend pieces include classic mules, loafers, ballet flats and Chelsea boots; hiker shoes; lug sole combat boots; mesh 90’s running shoes; metallic over-the-knee boots; platform party heels; plush platform clogs; pull-on platform boots; skate sneakers; softie boots; stacked court shoes; and white socks with loafers.
Accessories feature reworked classics mixed with Y2K aesthetics to create a balance of novelty and longevity. For jewelry accessories and bags, highlights include body chains; double/stacked belts; encrusted hoops; gemstones; gender-inclusive, oversized totes; glam hosiery; halfmoon-shaped bags; scrunch socks; sculptural shoulder bags; statement rings; textured party pouches; top-handle bags; and Y chains.
“These trends, which we forecasted in partnership with Women’s Wear Daily (WWD), follow a period of immense challenge, and consumers are dressing to reflect the motivational forces that will drive them into 2024: wellbeing, discovery, transformation, simplicity and pleasure,” added Ramage.
Earthy reds and browns on the model are available at Atlanta Apparel
Dress: Place Showroom; Coat: Joe’s Jeans Earrings: D’ElementStyle
International Market Center’s (IMC) five Atlanta Apparel markets feature the latest looks in contemporary, young contemporary, women’s modern, shoes, fashion accessories and more, plus specialty categories such as children’s and plus-size at AmericasMart Atlanta. The next Atlanta Apparel markets are June 6 – 9 and August 1 – 5 at AmericasMart Atlanta. https://www.atlanta-apparel.com
Las Vegas Apparel – Atlanta Apparel’s West Coast fashion sourcing market – adds a curated mix of young contemporary apparel and accessories to Las Vegas Fashion Week offerings each February and August. The next Las Vegas Apparel runs August 6 – 9 at the Expo at World Market Center Las Vegas. https://www.LasVegas-Apparel.com
Photos courtesy of Atlanta Apparel
SHAPELLX EMBODIES CURVE’S INCLUSIVE SHAPEWEAR TREND
Photos courtesy of Shapellx.com
While Curve New York’s February dates have ended, and is now looking forward to its July and August shows, this trade show’s trends have permeated the intimate apparel industry. The major trend that was seen throughout Curve’s exhibits was inclusive shapewear; intimate undergarments that shape, contour and highlight the body’s best assets so that everyone, no matter what their size is, can rock their favorite outfit on any occasion.
Shapellx, a women’s everyday shapewear brand, provides exactly that. Shapellx offers a variety of flattering silhouettes for any occasion created with sustainable materials and high-quality fabrics. Shapellx’s pursuit is to create a world where women can fully express their unique beauty and reshape their lives.
“Shapellx provides a solution to all outfits helping women express themselves through transformative shapewear products,” said Shane Shi, general manager & marketing director for Shapellx. “Our shapewear, ranging from innerwear to outerwear, represents empowerment and sustainability. Shapellx is known for creating a variety of flattering silhouettes for any occasion, providing women with the freedom to convey their unique style and reveal their true selves to the world.”
All too often, women are asked to conform to the norm. But why should they? Women should be free to be their genuine selves! It’s time to make their moment. It’s time to wear that outfit. Whether it’s the low-back little black dress to a party, a fitted suit to a big interview, a pair of postpartum jeans, athletic wear that needs an extra boost or a wedding dress, the shapewear is designed to fit any style, for any occasion, so that women can express themselves and live free.
“Instead of thinking about sizes, we’re thinking about creating products where everyone is included, satisfied and fitted. Everyone deserves to look pretty when they are wearing their favorite outfits, and size should not be an obstacle,” Shane added.
A common industry misconception is that shapewear is only for plussize women. “Shapewear is not at all about body size. Shapewear is all
about making you feel comfortable and confident, no matter what you’re wearing. Shapewear can be everyday wear for every shape,” Shane continued.
Shapellx is also committed to becoming the world’s first fully sustainable and eco-friendly shapewear brand in the mainstream market. “We have spent years of researching and working with many engineers to help us design the perfect shapewear. We have also dedicated our time to use in our design GRS material and we will be 100% eco-friendly by 2025,” Shane stated. “Shapellx is dedicated to making a positive impact on the planet by using sustainable materials and high-quality fabrics that are both environmentally friendly and long-lasting. Our customers can feel good about expressing themselves and making a positive impact on the environment.”
Since launching in 2019 with its debut product, AirSlim® Firm Tummy Compression Bodysuit Shaper with Butt Lifter, Shapellx has designed more than 2,000 shapewear products. Its current hero products include:
Built-In 360° Smooth Ruched Shaping Dress: No bra is required with this dress’ removable built-in padding that offers great support with no bra lines. The dress is ruched all over the front and back, creating a slimming illusion while simultaneously playing up your curves with tummy control. Its classic square neckline design punctuates the collarbone, allowing a timeless yet trendy shape. It was designed for women of every body type and perfectly balances comfort and control for daily wear. It is available in black, blue and brown.
Built-In 360° Contour Midi Shaping Dress: This dress offers mid-firm control for ultimate smoothing power. It can be worn as a base for layering in the winter, or as a solo piece during warmer months. This Shapellx product can make a pretty outfit but also provides full-coverage shapewear with 360° tummy control with breast support that provides comfort. It is available in black and gray.
Stay up to date on the latest intimate apparel trends, and don’t forget to check out Curve New York’s summer dates from July 30-August 1 at the Javits Center.
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FORMER MODEL & BEAUTY EXPERT SHIRLEY POWELL SHARES SEASONAL TRANSITION TIPS
BEAUTY
Multi-Purpose Lip Cheek and Eye Shadow Color, SpringBlossom
Photos
courtesy of LaJeanell.com
Dramatic
Lashes Black Mascara Lip Pencil in nude
Shirley Powell is the founder of the new health and wellness makeup brand, LaJeanell Skincare & Makeup System. Made in the USA, this indie brand inhibits beauty that transcends over time. Powell brings more than 40 years of business experience and has represented two high-end luxury cosmetics companies. As an entrepreneur and model, she found herself searching for quality makeup that was healthconscious.
As a result, she found the need to create a line that provided a solution to the problem. Powell founded LaJeanell to provide quality skincare solutions and natural, organic cosmetics. Her vision was to include anti-aging components to the product line that provides users with a younger look without going under the scalpel. LaJeanell offers a 30-day money-back guarantee for product satisfaction.
Below are Powell’s tips for transitioning cosmetics as winter ends and spring begins.
with a light shimmer and with five luxurious essential shades. This product has regenerative properties to help heal dry lips and improve elasticity. The preservative-free formula has rich pigment and requires minimal application for full impact and rejuvenating hydration. The product is available in the following shades: Shirley, Autumn Leaves, Summer Breeze, Winter Holly Berries and Spring Blossom.
LaJeanell Moonlight Lume Pod
For a light shimmer glow that can be worn all season, try LaJeanell’s Moonlight Lume Pod. “Use it by itself on your lips, cheeks and eyes to achieve your own personal shade, created from your own skin tone, leaving you with a youthful, seductive, sheer and fi nishing glow,” Powell suggested.
full of intense moisturizer, rich pigments and regenerative properties to help heal dry lips and improve elasticity. All products are vegan and formulated with healthy ingredients.”
LaJeanell’s Dramatic Lashes Black Mascara
Cold and dry air can make your eyes water. LaJeanell’s Dramatic Lashes Black Mascara, with dual purpose for eyelashes and eyebrows, is smudge-proof and waterproof to create a dramatic eye. Vegan and organic, using this mascara for both lashes and brows allows for buildable intensity without smudging or clumping.
Another suggestion to consider is to avoid using powders during the season’s transitional months. “Powders create more dryness,” explained Powell. “All LaJeanell products are powderless.”
LaJeanell’s
Multi-Purpose Lip, Cheek and Eyeshadow Color
When transitioning from winter into spring, take into consideration your skin tone while selecting colors for lips, eyes and cheeks.
LaJeanell’s Multi-Purpose Lip, Cheek and Eyeshadow Color offers a versatile shade for everyone who wants a little variety in their makeup bags.
LaJeanell’s Lip, Cheek and Eyeshadow multipurpose shades are available in matte or
LaJeanell’s unique creamy formula and sheer color effortlessly blends to create shimmering accents. The Moonlight Lume Pod contours and brings dynamic highlights to all skin tones. Quick and easy to apply, the Lume Pod leaves you with a youthful seductive sheer and a naturally glowing finish. It’s perfect for highlighting and sculpting while warming the eyes, cheeks, lips and body. The Lume Pod also features a 100% Vegan Brown Faux Mini Duo Brush. The Duo brush is perfect for on-the-go use.
Spring isn’t always sunny and clear skies. Hydration is key for colder mornings and windy, rainy days. “Keep your skin moisturized and hydrated. Use any of LaJeanell’s cosmetic products daily,” Powell advised. “They are
Protect skin year-round. “Always moisturize and use sun protection on your skin, prior to the application of color cosmetics,” Powell added.
Neutral Lip Liner Pencil
LaJeanell’swooden, sharpenable lip liner pencil provides laser-focus precision and a clean, welldefi ned application. It delivers unstoppable color and effortless glide with a moisturizing formula saturates with budge-resistant color.
For more information on LaJeanell, visit www. lajeanell.com.
BEAUTY mannpublications.com April 2023 FM | 79
Moonlight Lume Pod
Multi-Purpose Lip Cheek and Eye Shadow Color - all shades
Ready, Set, Dressed.
Experience an expansive collection in Atlanta for women’s, men’s, and children’s apparel, shoes, and accessories. Then, head west to Las Vegas for another great opportunity to shop young contemporary, accessories, shoes, and more. Each market hosts top brands, plenty of parties, complimentary food and drinks, and trend presentations and photo ops to keep you inspired.
FUTURE MARKET DATES
October Atlanta Apparel
October 11-October 15, 2022
January Atlanta Apparel
January 31 – February 4, 2023
February Las Vegas Apparel
February 12 - February 15, 2023
March Atlanta Apparel
March 28 – April 1
For full market dates and registration, visit Atlanta-Apparel.com and LasVegas-Apparel.com
#shoplva
@apparelmarkets
#atlapparel
|
BOOKS FROM YOUR FAVORITE FASHION DECADES!
PASTPages
Photos courtesy of Amazon Books
Fashion in the 1960s by Daniel Milford-Cottam
September22,2020
Perhaps more so than any other decade, the Sixties had the broadest impact on the 20th century Western world. Across society, culture and the arts, youth voices rose to prominence and appeared to have the greatest influence in new fashions and trends. Mature polished elegance was replaced by young liveliness as the fashionable ideal. Although only the most daring young followers of fashion wore the tiny miniskirts and borderline-unwearable plastic and metal outfits publicized in the press, stylish and smart fashion was increasingly available to all, with an emphasis on self-expression taking precedence over outward conformity. In this beautifully illustrated book, fashion historian Daniel Milford-Cottam offers a concise guide to the changing styles and trends across the decade, which are vividly brought to life by a range of stunning images.
Grit and Glamour: The Street Style, High Fashion and Legendary Music of the 1970s by Allan Tannenbaum (Author), Debbie Harry (Foreword) and Peter Occhiogrosso (Contributor)
October25,2016
“Grit and Glamour” features an incredible range of photography by famed artist Allan Tannenbaum covering the styles and fashions of the iconic decade, including stars and artists such as the Rolling Stones, John Lennon and Andy Warhol. Take a journey back to the decadent decade of the 1970s with this dazzling collection of photographs from award-winning photographer Allan Tannenbaum. Iconic black-and-white and color photos from the Big Apple’s glamorous era paint an immersive picture of how the fashion gurus and stylish personalities of the decade influenced the way everyone dressed in public life. With photographs of the Stones, John Lennon, Andy Warhol and the myriad celebrities and scene-makers that surrounded them, Tannenbaum’s lens provides an insider’s look at the wild fashions, flamboyant clothes and accessories of the 70s.
80s Sound and Vision by Sheila Rock (Photographer), Nilgin Yusuf (Contributor) and Mark Paytress (Contributor)
October17,2022
“80s Sound and Vision” captures the raw energy, creativity and flamboyance of an unforgettable era through its fashion and music. With images by renowned photographer Sheila Rock, this personal journey offers a visual account including many rare images from the photographer’s archive, alongside those originally featured in seminal publications such as The Face, Rolling Stone and Vogue. Rock’s compelling first hand narrative shot across a decade primarily in London but also Los Angeles, San Francisco and Tokyo, takes us to a time when the real catwalk happened on the street; when style was the first and last word and when youth made their own identity, culture, music and entertainment. Here are the burgeoning roots of gender fluidity and an index of impressive talents that bubbled out of the suburbs and art schools to energize and invigorate a gray place with positivity and possibility.
Captivate!: Fashion Photography from the ‘90s by Claudia Schiffer
January25,2022
The Nineties are back! Fashion icon Claudia Schiffer takes readers on a personal journey through the golden age of the global supermodel. This richly illustrated book accompanied the first ever exhibition curated by Claudia Schiffer, who brings together the legendary fashion photographers, designers and supermodels, whose visions captivated fashion’s most illustrious decade. This stunning book draws on a rich panorama of amazing characters and places, which made the decade so memorable. Spectacular images by legendary photographers are shown alongside unseen material from Schiffer’s private archive. Arthur Elgort’s extravagant compositions are shown next to Corinne Day’s intimate and immediate style; Ellen von Unwerth’s playful, sexy, humorous and exuberant photographs meet Herb Ritts’ sculptural, perfectly composed works; Juergen Teller’s provocative photographs contrast with Karl Lagerfeld’s elegant and timeless images; and many other iconic photographers are featured.
BOOKS mannpublications.com April 2023 FM | 81
APRIL HOROSCOPE
WHATS YOUR CHOICE OF DRINK?
By Nadia Abreu
Follow @selfloveastro on instagram for in-depth astrology-related posts.
ARIES TAURUS
April is going to be a magical month for you because on April 11, Jupiter and the sun will be meeting up in the cosmos together in your sign bringing you abundance, blessings and
growth. April 6 will be a chance for you to release and let go of any relationships or relationship habits that aren’t serving you or aligned with the direction you want to take your life. There is also a solar eclipse happening on April 19 in your sign, bringing with it a huge opportunity for a new beginning or new perspective when it comes to your identity. The way you see yourself or want to be seen by others will be fated to change or become more prominent. It’s time to really step into a more authentic era of your life this month and become aligned with your version of your highest self. This is an exciting and transformative month, Aries.
Taurus, this month you’ll be experiencing a lot of healing and quiet growth. On April 19 we’re having a solar eclipse happening in the sector of your subconscious and spirituality. It’s a great time to sit with yourself alone and meditate on new opportunities for your subconscious beliefs about yourself and your confidence to take action. Then by the end of the month on April 21, Mercury will be retrograde in your sign. Be very careful with signing any major contracts and be sure to read the fi ne print. People from your past may be coming back now to test you or to gain closure so that you can move forward. Remember to just take it easy and listen to your intuition this month.
GEMINI CANCER
In April, your love life will start to be more highlighted as Venus enters your sign on April 10. You’ll notice that you feel more attractive or that others are attracted to you. You’ll start to take more pleasure in the way you look or want to maybe even change your appearances this month. Make sure you do it before Mercury goes retrograde on the 21st to avoid any mishaps. Once your ruler, Mercury, goes retrograde on the 21st, it’s a good time to put some mental health tools and practices in place to keep your anxieties to a minimum or at least have the ability to deal with them in a proactive way. Be sure to prioritize your mental health this month, Gemini.
scotch, neat shot of tequila in a coffee mug
LEO VIRGO
Leo, April will bring a lot of love and positive experiences when it comes to your friendships and groups that you choose to
associate yourself with. After April 10, it’d be a great time for you to get very clear on your plans for the future and start to get excited about making your dreams a reality. By the end of the month after the 21st, there will be a Mercury retrograde that will be mostly impacting your sector of career and public life. Be mindful of misunderstandings and miscommunications at work with authority figures or even on social media. Resist the urge to argue over little things during this time because you may feel differently or there may be repercussions when the retrograde is over. Use this time to reflect and reassess what’s working or not working for you in your career. Don’t be afraid to think outside the box.
April is bringing a lot of growth and transformation because your planetary ruler, the moon, is doing a lot. There’s a full moon happening on April 6 that will bring up opportunities to release and let go of old childhood traumas or beliefs that come from childhood that no longer feel aligned to you. You may also want to release and let go of things within your home or end up deciding that you want to move homes entirely. Then a solar eclipse happening on April 19. Solar eclipses are very powerful new moons and since you are ruled by the moon, you will feel this intensely. It’s an opportunity for huge and fated changes when it comes to your career path and your public image. Be brave and show up for it, Cancer. You’ve got Mars, the planet of drive and action, in your sign supporting you now.
April will be a month full of opportunities for you Virgo. On April 10 Venus will be blessing your career and public life bringing you pleasure, beauty, positive vibes and possibly even some extra cash. Don’t be afraid to show off your beauty and aesthetics publicly during this time; everyone will naturally be more attracted and drawn to you. Then by the end of the month, Mercury, your ruling planet, will be going retrograde. Be mindful of your words during this time and avoid signing any contracts. Use this retrograde to prioritize your mental health and also re-evaluate your core beliefs about the world. If you’re traveling, be sure to double check EVERYTHING before you go as your travel plans have the potential to not go as planned if you aren’t careful.
gin martini
sangria
Moscow Mule
vodka soda and a glass of water
LIBRA
This month is highlighting the delicate dance between your own needs and identity and the needs of others and your relationships. On April 6, you’ll have a full moon happening in your sign giving you the opportunity to release and let go of anything that doesn’t feel authentic to your self identity and that no longer aligns with who you want to be. Then towards the end of the month, you’ll have a powerful solar eclipse happening that will affect your relationships allowing you the possibility of some powerful new beginnings. New people, new commitments, new perspectives on love. Trust yourself to to stay true to yourself and keep people in your life that support this.
AQUARIUS
April is bring your lots of love, harmony and pleasure, Sagittarius. As Venus, the planet of love and beauty, will be in your partnership sector, you can be in the right frame of mind to meet someone or if you already have someone to prioritize romance with them. The chemistry could feel fun and exciting during this time for getting your fl irt on with a special someone. Then on April 19, there’s a solar eclipse happening that can usher in a powerful fated change when it comes to your self expression and creative projects. Or the possibility for creating children or wanting to have children is also strong during this eclipse cycle so act accordingly for your desired outcome. When Mercury goes retrograde on the 21st, pay attention to your health and any miscommunications at work or with coworkers. It’s possible to reconnect with some old colleagues, friends or mentors, too.
SAGITTARIUS CAPRICORN
Scorpio, April is bringing you an opportunity to really reflect and reassess your one-on-one relationships such as your romantic partners, business partners or even close friends or roommates. When Mercury goes retrograde on April 21, these relationships will be impacted and become the focus. It’s time to re-evaluate some of these connections and decide if you need to set boundaries with some of them, speak your needs more clearly or if maybe you need to end the connection entirely. Be mindful of unexpected disagreements or misunderstandings with your close relationships at this time and have grace and patience for yourself. Avoid making any life-altering decisions about these relationships until after the retrograde is over on May 14. Use this time simply to reflect and review.
This month will have a big focus on your family and home life. Mercury will be retrograde and affecting this area of your life the most. It’s a great time for you to reconnect back to your ancestors, reconnect with family members or even rediscover some of the teachings of your childhood that may benefit you today. It could even be an opportunity to re-evaluate which teachings and beliefs you want to keep and which you want to let go of. It’s not a great time for investing in any sort of real estate, buying a home, making any changes to your space until after the retrograde is over on May 14. You may also be experiencing some intense personal transformations and feelings when it comes to your one-on-one intimate relationships.
During April, your home life is going to be experiencing some big changes. You might move, get a new roommate(s), decide that you want to renovate your home or re-establish a stronger connection with the people you already live with. The eclipse on the 19th will bring some fated changes to your home that are aligned to your highest self. Don’t resist these changes. You could also experience pleasure and ease when it comes to your day-to-day work life once Venus, the planet of beauty and pleasure, enters this space for you. Opportunities to make some extra cash may be easily available for you or even fi nding a new job can be possible and favorable. Just make sure that you avoid signing any big contracts after April 21 when Mercury is retrograde. It’s best to wait until it’s over on May 14.
PISCES
Pisces, April will be a time to focus on your fi nances and investments. On April 6, the full moon in Libra will highlight your investments and shared fi nances. There may be some things that need to be reassessed or released during this time. Then on the 19th, there is a solar eclipse in Aries that will affect and highlight the way that you make money for yourself and bring some fated changes to your values and the things that you consider to be worthy. This can include your self worth as well. Lean in and embrace these changes that come. Then once mercury is retrograde after April 21, be mindful of miscommunications, drama or gossip with your siblings, neighbors or old friends. Be very careful with what you say during the retrograde because it could come back to bite!
SCORPIO
french 75 dark & stormy a aviation
long island iced tea
whiskey sour with egg white
manhattan
art credit : Megan Roy (Instagram: @roymeister)
www.kaufmanorganization.com Kaufman Leasing Company consists of highly qualified professionals with a thorough knowledge and understanding of the New York City office, retail and specialty-use real estate sectors. NOW LEASING 155 West 23rd Street 450 Seventh Avenue 100-104 Fifth Avenue 27-35 West 24th Street 13-15 West 27th Street 45-47 West 27th Street 19 West 24th Street 119-125 West 24th Street 111 West 19th Street 212 West 35th Street 132 West 36th Street 242 West 36th Street 237 West 35th Street 275 West 39th Street 462 Seventh Avenue 470 Seventh Avenue 519 Eighth Avenue 22 West 19th Street
CROSSWORD PUZZLE
4.
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23. Dior’s new beauty partner 25.
of makeup
28. Advisors to the fashion industry
Joffe, for example 33.
TV channel
1. Global fashionista who founded AS by DF,
Maybelline’s fi rst-ever promotional avatar 11. North America’s largest intimate apparel trade
Renowned choreographer ___ Knight who participated with Jane Fonda in the launch of
Founder of one of the world’s top fashion
Ronnit Vasserman’s concept of the ___ & fashion crossover- demonstrated during Miami
Collection
tools
32. Rei Kawakubo and Adrian
Atlanta-based
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VISIT MANNPUBLICATIONS.COM/FASHIONMANNUSCRIPT/ CROSSWORD-ANSWERS-FOR-APRIL-2023
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3. Green building certification 4. Graphic design is a ____ that can lead to 6. Luxury hosiery brand dedicated to thigh high 8. Beyonce’s “___, Myself and I” 17. Leading global luxury e-commerce brand
Football boot worn by Johan Cruyff, Diego Maradona, Eusebio and Pala, 2 words
Social Safari
By R. Couri Hay
The Orchid Dinner New York Botanical Garden
Gillian Hearst, NYC’s leading young philanthropist, was among the chairs who helped revitalize The New York Botanical Garden’s (NYBG) annual Orchid Dinner, long the prettiest gala of the winter or any other season, at the Plaza Hotel. Designers, including Rudy Saunders for Dorthey Draper, Joy Williams, Molly Ford, Susie Novak, Chris Goddard, David Netto and 30 more, festooned the tables in stunning oversized floral armaments. Indre Rockefeller, ballet dancers James Whiteside and Isabella Boylston, pianist Gina Alice and artist Angelica Hicks danced to the beats of Timo Weiland, society’s favorite DJ. The fun night began with the sale of exceptional and rare orchids, something every flower lover should never miss.
The benefit served as a celebration of artist Lily Kwong’s exceptional exhibit, “The Orchid Show: Natural Heritage,” on view through April 23. The night’s chairs included Ravenel Curry, Jane Moss, Maureen and Richard Chilton, Holly and Todd Lowen. Isabel Leeds was among the best dressed Junior Chairs, along with Sara Arno, Casey Kohlberg, Kevin Cornish and Lizzie Asher. Founded in 1891, The NYBG is the most comprehensive botanical garden in the world with over 7.8 million plant and fungal specimens. The gala, which raised over $800k, was sponsored by Guerlain and Hearst. nybg.org
Race of Hope: Palm Beach Hope for Depression Research Foundation
Audrey Gruss’s Hope for Depression Research Foundation (HDRF) held its Fifth Annual 5k Race of Hope in Palm Beach. The event gathered 1,000 men, women, children and support dogs at Bradley Park to support mental health awareness and research into depression and anxiety. Gruss, who founded HDRF in 2006, said, “Two in five adults in America have reported symptoms of anxiety and depression, and we are working tirelessly to fi nd new and better treatments.” The organization’s Director Louisa Benton and Scott Snyder served as the race’s grand marshalls. Runners included Jamee and Peter Gregory, Sharon Bush and Bob Murray. Sponsors included Akris, J.P. Morgan, Le Bilboquet, Tenenbaum and Sullivan and Yafa Signed Jewels. The high-spirited race raised a recordbreaking $550,000 for advanced life-saving mental health research into new treatments for clinical depression. hopefordepression.org
Holiday House: Palm Beach Breast Cancer Research Foundation
Campion Platt, Andrea Stark, Jayne Chase and Sarah Wetenhall served as chairs of Iris Dankner’s Holiday House Palm Beach Tabletop Event, to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Over a dozen leading designers, including Ashley Stark, Amanda Lindroth, Casa Branca, David Lucido and Javier and Elsa Soyars, created tablescapes showcasing cutting edge décor and lifestyle concepts. Checking out the tables were Simone Levinson, Sharon Bush, Tatianna Platt, Jean Shafi roff, Linda Fischbach, Jane Hansen, Jeanne Swerlin, Annie Falk, Nancy Stone, Alison Stager, Pamela Morgan, Debra Halpert, Sue Devit, Ellie Libby and Liz Lang. Sponsors of the day included Asprey, Hive Collective, Hamptons Real Estate Showcase, Luxe Magazine, Dan’s Papers, Modern Luxury and Park Magazine. holidayhousenyc.com
SOCIAL SOIREE
Sofie Mahlkvist at La Goulue. Photo courtesy of Jakub Bachleda
Audrey Gruss, Barbara Crocker, Louisa Benton at Race of Hope 5K.
Photo courtesy of Capehart Photography 2023
Galerie Gmurzynska The Palm Beach Show
George Hamilton was among the fi rst to visit Isabelle Bscher’s Galerie Gmurzynska booth at the Palm Beach Show. Bscher showed masterworks by Picasso, Brâncusi, Wifredo Lam, Roberto Matta, Joaquín TorresGarcía and pop icon Marjorie Strider. Prince Hussain Aga Khan’s undersea photography was presented with the proceeds going to Focused on Nature. A highlight of the exhibit included Picasso’s plaster sculpture of his left hand from 1937, the same year his masterpiece Guernica was created. This was the piece’s fi rst public tour in nearly two decades. Strider’s piece Girl with White Rose also made waves through the artist’s innovative use of the third dimension and commentary on the tropes of romance, beauty and gender in the Pop Art realm. This work shared many of the formal characteristics of Strider’s Girl with Radish, which the New York Times used as the cover image of their recent article “Best Art of 2022.” gmurzynska.com
“Give Us Our Flowers” Artist Guy Stanley Philoche
Tyre Nichols, the 29-year-old FedEx worker who was beaten to death by the police in Memphis, Tennessee, is getting support from across the country, including contributions to a 1.4-million-dollar memorial fund that will pay the family’s legal and mental health bills. Nichols, who was an avid skateboarder, will get a skatepark built in his honor in his hometown with the help of skateboarding champion Tony Hawk. NYC Artist Guy Stanley Philoche, who is represented by the Cavalier Gallery, has created a portrait of Nichols on his skateboard to be given to the Nichols family with the help of Reverend Al Sharpton. The painting is part of Philoche’s “Give Us Our Flowers” series that also includes Muhammed Ali, Jackie Robinson, Misty Copeland and Nina Simone. Philoche said, “I painted Tyre the way he should be remembered: full of life and living with joy doing what he loved most, skateboarding.” philochestudios.com
Susan & David Rockefeller South Fork Natural History Museum
Susan and David Rockefeller and “Entourage’s” Adrian Grenier are all long-time supporters of metal magnate Andy Sabin’s South Fork Natural History Museum and Nature Center in Bridgehampton. Sabin recently rescued four lion cubs from Ukraine, who he helped fly to the States by private jet and relocate to The Wildcat Sanctuary in Minnesota. The environmentalist also hosted his annual Eastern Tiger Salamander search for the endangered species for nature lovers and their families in the woods near the museum. The mini safari included a tour of the museum, which houses rare snakes and turtles and teaches students of all ages about protecting the environment and its wildlife inhabitants.
sofo.org
La Goulue, White Olive & IXTA
With the end of masking, restaurants are booming. Uptown La Goulue, which has been attracting celebrities like Jackie Kennedy Onassis since 1972, has been reeling in Sienna Miller, designer Libbie Mugrabi, fashion columnist Sofie Mahlkvist and skin care guru Peter Thomas Roth. Lagouluerestaurant.com
In Midtown, new Mediterranean restaurant White Olive, which was recently featured in The New York Times, is getting so much buzz that even Michael McCarthy, who owns media hotspot Michael’s across the street, came in for dinner. Whiteolivesnyc.com
Downtown IXTA, the new Mexican spot brought to you by Hyde Hospitality, is teeming with VIPs, including Ray Donovan star Liev Schreiber, as well as a bar full of models. ixtanyc.com
SOCIAL SOIREE
Andy Sabin, Brooke Taylor at South Fork Natural History Museum. Photo courtesy of PMC
Gillian Hearst at NYBG. Photo courtesy of BFA
Guy Stanley Philoche at Cavalier Gallery. Photos courtesy of PMC
Isabelle Bscher at Galerie Gmurzynska. Photo courtesy of Brauer Photos, G. Nitschke
Peter Thomas Roth at La Goulue.
Photo courtesy of PMC
2023 FM | 87
Jayne Chase, Campion Platt, Andrea Stark, Iris Dankner at Holiday House. Photo courtesy of Annie Watt April
MET OPERA DEDICATES ICONIC CHANDELIERS TO DONALD TOBER
By Michele Gerber Klein
The Metropolitan Opera Chandeliers are now dedicated to Donald Tober who was toasted on the grand tier of The Met. Co-founder and Chairman of the Sugar Foods Corporation, Tober was the magnet behind Sweet N’ Low sugar substitute, and is remembered for both his philanthropy and dedication to decades of leadership at Sugar Foods.
“Donald and I had a beautiful life together. A life of love, work, travel and art, all of which enriched our relationship,” said Tober’s wife Barbara in her speech to two hundred of their friends, who gathered to celebrate their memories of a wonderful man.
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Photos courtesy of Patrick McMullan
Kendall Hubert, Afsaneh Akhtari, Gordon Winston, Barbara Winston and Nassrin Iromloo Zahedi
Dominic von Habsburg and Nella von Habsburg
Lorna Graev and Michele Gerber Klein
Maria Eugenia Maury and William Haseltine
Opera singer Hera Hyesang Park with William Briard Harding
SOCIAL SOIREE
Peter Gelb, Barbara Tober
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mannpublications.com | April 2023 A Closer Look Daisy Jones & The SixInspired Collection from Free People Get Groovy with Daisy Jones and The Six! Inspired by the new Amazon Prime original based on Taylor Jenkins Reid’s New York Times bestseller, “Daisy Jones and The Six” is a show, a rock band and now thanks to boho brand Free People, a 70s-style capsule collection. Full of bell bottom flare jeans, tiedye prints and crocheted caftans, you’ll feel like one of The Six with this collection that embraces your inner flower child from the decade of peace, love and rock n’ roll. Nightbird Burnout Kimono $98 Theas Hair Scarf Theas Hair Scarf $38
A Closer Look Just Float On Flare Jeans $78 HaloAviator Sunglasses$25 Saltwater Wrap Belt $58 We The Free Winona Weekender $398 All items can be found on freepeople.com DreamInColorBelt $68 Tulsi Mesh Tank $128
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Atlanta . Dallas . Miami . New York . San Francisco Additional Locations to Be Announced T h e F a b r i c S h o w s . c o m / @ T h e F a b r i c S h o w s The Fabric Shows 2 Day Show + 2 Day Seminar Program Fabrics / Trims / Small Lot Production Miami Fabric Show Miami Airport Convention Center March 28 & 29, 2023 Tuesday 10 to 6 / Wednesday 9 to 4
JENNIFER ROTH TALKS BRINGING “F” AND “U” INTO SHOES WITH KIRAKIRA
By Laurie Melchionne
KiraKira means Bling Bling in Japanese. Why Japanese, in particular?
A few years ago, my husband and I were traveling in Japan and we visited Harajuku, which is known for its colorful fashion and culture. It was there that I came across the word “kirakira” which means bling bling or shiny and glittery. I love anything that shines and sparkles (glitter was one of my wedding colors and yes, it is a color!) and the term stuck with me ever since. Once I made the decision to start this brand, the name choice was obvious!
How did you get your start in fashion? Did you always want to own your own brand?
Shoes changed my life. I’ve always loved them, but it wasn’t until I got the question “What’s your name again?” that my life path would be altered forever. It all started when I went to a networking event one night. Normally these events are the worst, but this night was particularly good. I met this group of people and we were really vibing, but when we got to saying our goodbyes they all looked at me and asked “What’s your name again?” My heart sank. We had just been besties for the last three hours and not one person remembered my name. I immediately thought that if I was wearing a pair of J-shaped heels, they would have remembered my name.
I came home and immediately started searching for J-shaped heels! I researched customized footwear that showcases your name, initials or your message. I wanted shoes to be remembered by… and nothing existed. So I decided to build the shoes myself. I started taking apart heels – literally sawing heels off of hundreds of pairs of shoes! I studied heel construction and set out to create a custom design that also provided extra comfort through arch and heel support.
From basic Internet research to holding a prototype in your hands, what was the journey like?
With limited business experience, no background in fashion and not a single contact in the industry, it was extremely challenging trying to make this dream a reality. From constantly hearing the word “no” to quite literally not knowing what my next step should be at so many points in the process, I am incredibly proud that I was able to manifest this dream into reality.
After creating my prototypes, I met with every manufacturer that would take a meeting with me (mostly owned by men) but no one took KiraKira Couture’s unique heel design seriously at first. I had a patented design that provided a more comfortable heel option by offering extra support for the arch and heel of your foot, but no one wanted to change the construction of how a high heel shoe was made.
I was met with constant rejection, which certainly took a toll on my spirits. I had to rely on maintaining my fiercely undaunted state of mind, trusting my instincts and believing in the value and benefit my product brought to women.
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LAST LOOK
Eventually, I met a manufacturer whose wife happened to be at the office that day. The owner’s wife agreed to try the shoe on and within seconds she was convincing her husband that this was a shoe he needed to make! As a fashion outsider, what I didn’t know turned out to be my greatest asset. Not knowing the way things “should” be done allowed me to be innovative, disruptive and to break the status quo. I was able to invent something new in the process. Now celebrating KiraKira Couture’s launch five years later blows my mind because I never expected one event would lead me to where I am going now. All I did was take the first step, and I believe every woman can follow the same path successfully. Granted, I ultimately decided to launch my line with “F” and “U” instead of “J,” but we’ll get there!
Why shoes?
Hi, my name is Jenn and I am a shoeista shoeaholic! Literally. Growing up, I lined my bookshelves with shoes instead of books. I wrote my college essay on how life is like a shoe and how different shoes represented different stages of my existence. For me, waking up and putting on something that makes me feel beautiful is a big part of making me feel confident throughout the day, and choosing the perfect shoe is absolutely essential. As everyone knows, the right shoe can make or break any outfit! Your shoes have a real edge; they embody haute couture and chic style, yet comfort is a major aspect of these designs. How did you figure out the balance between chic style and comfort?
The goal of the shoe line is to make every woman sparkle and be memorable, both literally and figuratively. However, if a shoe isn’t comfortable, you aren’t going to wear them very often. I mean, how many pairs of shoes do you own that never make it out of your closet? You love them but you can’t wear them, yet you can’t NOT have them. All we want is for women to love their shoes and be able to wear them! We want you to always sparkle, so our innovation comes via our patented and uniquely constructed heel design that provides amazing support and comfort.
Other than comfort, what informs your design decisions?
Initially, my goal of designing footwear was focused on creating something memorable. As I began creating the F.U. Fiercely Undaunted line, I
discovered that I also found my voice through that process. Shoes are my superpower. I use my shoes as an anchor, as my superhero cape. I put them on and they help me feel more confident and powerful and strong. No matter the challenge, I can achieve anything as long as I take that first step. I want to share my superhero power with the world. Being unapologetically ourselves is our unique gift to the world and reminding women to celebrate that fact greatly informs our design decisions.
What inspires you and your designs?
Being bold, fearless, confident and beautiful is a state of mind, and bringing out that side of women inspires me and my designs. Everything we wear says something about who we are and how we feel and now everyone in the world will have a chance to say something unique through the message of their footwear. One way to achieve this goal is through heel customization. It was something I really wanted to find and it just isn’t out there in the market. I didn’t see any personalization in shoes that made them feel memorable to me and I am setting out to change that.
Your shoes have been featured on the Netflix show “Team Kaylie.” What has it been like to see your brand elevated to such platforms?
Seeing my shoes in the opening shot of a Netflix show was truly amazing and it happened before my line had even launched! Mainly it motivated me to give this brand my all, so I could eventually see the shoes on TV every day!
Is anything exciting planned for the future that you’d like to tease or promote?
For one individual that I know who is currently battling cancer, she puts on her F. U. Fiercely Undaunted shoes while getting chemotherapy as a reminder to kick cancer’s ass. In honor of her and my incredible mother-in-law, and the many women I know who have been affected by breast cancer, we are going to be expanding the line with a pink Fiercely Undaunted shoe and will donate a portion of the sales towards breast cancer research. In the year ahead we will also have new colors and designs that are completely unique to the marketplace!
Photos courtesy of Viktoria Sirakova
marcumllp. com EVER WONDER WHERE THE PEOPLE WITH ALL THE ANSWERS GET ALL THE ANSWERS? Ask MARCUM Marcum’s National Consumer Products Group Leaders: Michael Sacco michael.sacco@marcumllp.com
Friedman ron.friedman@marcumllp.com
Ronald
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