oy s ter per pe tua l sk y-d w el ler in 18 k t w hite g ol d
rolex
oyster perpetual and sky-dweller are trademarks.
CONTENTS FALL/WINTER 2013
MANN’S JEWELERS 2945 MONROE AVENUE ROCHESTER, NY 14618 585-271-4000 326 EASTVIEW MALL VICTOR, NY 14564 585-425-4100 MANNSJEWELERS.COM CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD IRVING MANN CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER NANCY MANN PRESIDENT ROBERT MANN CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER MICHAEL GALLINA DIRECTOR OF MARKETING MEGAN CRAWFORD
P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN CREATIVE DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON
Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2013.
COVER ILLUSTRATION BY DARIA JABENKO
Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 11, Issue 2. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.
FEATURES 6 Illumannations 8 Happy Birthday Accent! 10 Fabulous in Rochester 14 From the Runways 22 Top 5 Cocktails: Mixing it Up 24 Top 5 Customizations: Make it Personal 26 Top 5 Gifts: It’s a Wrap 28 Red Carpet: Dreamy in Black & White 32 Pantone Fashion Color Report 34 Collections: Willow by David Yurman
52 Food: Gulf Gourmet 56 Travel Tips: Working It 58 The Arts: Ballets Russes 60 Culture: Café Society 64 Health & Fitness: ROC Boxing 66 Profile: Shinola 68 Profile: Stephen Webster 70 Spotlight: Mikimoto’s 120th Anniversary 90 Books: The Art of Fashion
BRIDAL SECTION 76 The Memories
36 Perfect Gems
78 The Ring
40 Toast Your Glass
80 The Dress
44 Wine: Opus One
82 Simply Beautiful Events
46 Camping Goes Glam
84 The Advice
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O r i b e
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become one with us at http://scottmillerstyle.com/contact
3340 monroe avenue pittsford | 980 ridge road webster 585.264.9940 | scottmillerstyle.com
HAIR: Scott Miller
COLORIST: Liz Gouveia
PHOTOGRAPHY: Carrie Mateosian
MAKEUP: Silvana Gulino
ILLUMANNATIONS
EXCITEMENT AT
EASTVIEW
A sneak peek at our new store in the Von Maur wing.
you. Our new store environment is designed with you in mind, reat your customers well, offering jewelry and gifts that are meant to make your moments and you’ll have a successful more memorable, your occasions more special, your memories more business. That’s the sacred. story we’ve been able to follow, In addition to adding Jewelry, by nature, is highly personal. It is symbolic and treasured, worn often, and hope to continue to follow, a location, we’ve and in some cases never removed. It can be tied to your in generations to come.” graduation, your birthday, your engagement, your wedding added brands to —Irving Mann day, the birth of your children, that long-awaited promotion When we decided to open our second location in Eastview our portfolio. at work or that especially warm and joyous holiday.
“T
Mall, we proceeded with one guiding thought: maintain the integrity and personalized experience of the Mann’s Jewelers brand—to continue the tradition that has built Mann’s Jewelers into the exciting, trusted brand it is today. It’s a tradition rooted in a commitment not only to bring our customers the very best, but to provide our customers with an out-of-the-ordinary and delightfully unexpected experience.
Expect the unexpected:
our promise to
Selecting these gifts, whether they are for yourself or someone you love, should be a meaningful experience and one that we feel honored to share with you. Our Eastview location will provide an expanded selection with extended hours, allowing us to be there for you when you need us most.
In addition to adding a location, we’ve added brands to the MJ portfolio: Hermès timepieces, Bell & Ross timepieces, Shinola timepieces and leather goods, and Pesavento fine jewelry, to name a few. We’re also introducing a Home & Gift Gallery, a curated assortment of gifts, each carefully selected to address the hard-to-shopfor individual in your life – whether it be a colleague, your significant other or even a furry friend.
The excitement continues around every corner. Kick-back in our men’s department or try on rings in our dedicated
an interactive storewithin-a-store that will change the way you shop for an engagement ring.
bridal boutique:
Complementing our new collections, the Eastview Mall store will also bring you the brands you already know and love Mann’s Jewelers for. Try on a vast array of jewels by David Yurman and watches by Rolex, each in their own in-store boutique. Shop the collections of Ippolita, Mikimoto, John Hardy and Stephen Webster. And choose from the expanded offerings of our distinctive, proprietary collections: MJ Rocks, MJ Facets, MJ Dewdrops and MJ Precious Petites. If a picture is worth a thousand words, seeing something firsthand is worth a million. We invite you to visit us at Eastview Mall and Monroe Avenue this holiday season. We can’t wait to welcome you.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY
ACCENT MAG!
2012
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In 2003, The Human Genome Project was officially completed, The Tampa Bay Buccaneers won the Super Bowl, the Bennifer (Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck) wedding that wasn’t was the talk of celebrity gossip, Madonna and Britney lip-locked, Outkast released Hey Ya, and The Lord of the Rings was topping the movie charts. In the fall of 2003, Mann’s Jewelers was also launching an ambitious project—a brand new luxury lifestyle magazine. It’s hard to believe that 10 years have flown by. Accent grows each season, reaching more people and publishing more articles. Whether you love travel, epicurean delights, arts and culture, or the latest fashion and jewelry updates, Accent Magazine is designed with you in mind. Thanks for reading! We’ve enjoyed being a part of your lives.
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FASHION 411
FABULOUS IN
ROCHESTER
Naughty or Nice? Fall fashion helps you express both of your alter egos. COURTNEY WINSLOW
A
t the beginning of every season,
my saintly side and my naughty side battle it out WWF style for ownership over my closet. This
fall is no exception. Who will reign as the Queen of Fabulous this year? Will it be pastel Pollyanna, or kick-ass Courtney Love? And let the battle between “good” and “a good time” begin… Will I invest in a motorcycle jacket or a baby pink mohair topcoat? Tulip skirt or leather mini? Pointelle stockings or tailored
Ear cuff or pearl drops?
trousers? Ankle booties or stacked heels? Plaids or pastels? Is your head spinning around like in The Exorcist yet? Let’s get ready to rumble! Naughty: Stay in your corner. Hit it Polly: Spring comes back for more with soft, fluffy fabrics in pastel hues, helping us to see the sunny side of things and forget that it’s dark and dreary outside. These colors are 1960s candy coated in baby blue, sea foam and pink. White takes over as
the year-round staple, and grays (50 shades) are the new black, creating a safe neutral palette for all ages. Feminine curves are either exaggerated with color-block silhouettes, or lost in oversized mohair coats. Peter Pan collars are magical and fabulous for layering. The turtleneck makes a comeback (still hiding those hickies missy?), black, snug and thinly layered under just about everything
Loafers, stacked heels and pointed kitten heels strut around Pleasantville—oh, I mean Pittsford—with Christmas packages perfectly wrapped. colorful.
And in the other corner, my little rocker packs a punch with ’90s throwbacks. Although Miss Naughty might be forced into boarding school, she’ll make the best out of her uniform. Her plaids are adorned with studs, pins and grommets... an interesting twist on the
country fabric. Sheer mini-dresses send us to Nirvana when transformed by flannel patterns. Sweaters and jackets get bullied by patent leather sleeves, spikes and mesh chain accents. Camouflage stilettos and army-inspired jackets will get her prepared for military school next year. If color is going to be devilish it takes the form of purples and greens this season; deep vampire shades of burgundy are adored. So who will have more fun this winter? Mrs. GoodyTwo-Shoes would be a popular choice on my son’s first day of kindergarten, appropriately coifed and snug in huggable baby blue... and she won’t scare the animals at Powers Farm Market, either. But my bad girl will ROCK the kids Halloween party. And who doesn’t love a little naughty at the company holiday dinner? Someone has to shake things up by coming dressed with high slits, sex and stilettos. Who else would be able to make the boss’s wife fall over into the punch bowl?! Oh, who can choose? The answer: Mix glam and grunge. Layer something soft under an edgy moto jacket and
Monroe Ave. store to put together go-to fall ensembles featuring some of her well-curated pieces. A Peter Pan-collared Equipment blouse is paired with Mother distressed denim and a Vince pointed-toe d’orsay flat. However, the look is not complete without a coated-denim brown motorcycle jacket draped over the shoulders. Try a Current Elliot studded-collar flannel with white tuxedo pants, trim to the ankle with a black stripe, add a knit beanie and an Adrienne Landau fur vest for night. Who says you can’t wear a sweatshirt to work? A Rebecca Taylor leopard sporty top looks incredibly smart paired with a collared shirt, a leather pencil skirt and Rag & Bone booties. Come on, we all know how the Pollyannas of the world eventually turn out… Miley? Britney? Ummm Reese? So live a little dangerously; stock leopard, plaids and pinstripes for fall. Most importantly, plan your look around a statement coat. Investment jackets are just like a new tote or a fabulous new pair of heels... except you get to wear
Oh, who can choose?
The answer: Mix glam and grunge.
Wear a few of the things that are comfortable and safe, with pieces and accents that are just naughty enough to make everyone around you a little nervous. add a plaid scarf.
And to help you with your mixed fashion messages, there’s one place in town where high fashion gets a reality check: Dado Boutique. Owner and fellow fab girl Dalida Atallah let me raid her
Hey, if you’re going to freeze in Rochester, you might as well look hot doing it.
it everyday!
Have the happiest and most fabulous of holidays!
A kaleidoscopic dance of light. Each exuberant facet reects one of the many different aspects of you.
MJ Facets Collection from $230
from the
RUNWAYS
1
2 SLEEK & CHIC
Whether from the future or borrowed from the boys, modern shapes call for minimalist jewelry.
3
5 4 1. John Hardy Dot collection large earrings in sterling silver, $450 (Small earrings available for $375) 2. Roberto Demeglio Domino bracelets with diamond stations in ceramic and 18K gold. Black bracelet, $2,860; White bracelet, $3,600 3. Monogram pendant in sterling silver, $325 4. Diamond eternity bands with emerald-cut diamonds in platinum. 6.08 ct band, $37,500; 9.33 ct band, $56,800 5. Stephen Webster Forget Me Knot cuff bangle in sterling silver, $795 6. Movado Bold watch with Swarovski crystal accent on leather strap, $395
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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
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from the
RUNWAYS
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NATURAL INSTINCTS Rich textures and organic shapes feel autumn appropriate in an earth-inspired palette.
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1. Alex Sepkus Sticks and Stones earrings with ocean jasper and diamonds in 18K yellow gold, $3,650 2. Todd Reed handmade rings featuring natural fancy colored diamonds and white diamonds set in recycled 18K gold. Each piece is unique; prices available on request. 3. Gaetana Couture earrings with emerald, black opal, drusy and diamonds in 18K yellow gold, $8,775 4. Stephen Webster Batmoth ring with black opalescent quartz, crystal and black diamonds in 18K white gold, $4,500 5. Chan Luu multi-wrap bracelet with semi-precious stones, crystal and vermeil beads in leather, $295 6. Roberto Coin Anamalier tiger cuff bracelet with 11.92 cts of colored and white diamonds in 18K yellow gold, $68,000
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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
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ONE OF A KIND, ONE PIECE AT A TIME, EACH BY HAND
from the
RUNWAYS
2 POWER PENDANTS
3 5
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1. Tassel necklace with carved emerald, emerald beads, black onyx and diamonds in 18K/10K white gold on an emerald and white topaz station chain, $24,750 2. Necklace with a fancy yellow diamond center and white diamond pavĂŠ frame in platinum/18K white gold with a diamond station chain, $33,025 3. Tassel necklace with black diamond beads, black onyx and diamonds in 18K/10K white gold on a pearl and white topaz chain, $8,650 4. Heather Moore personalized necklace. Each charm is unique to you, with every name, date and symbol done by hand using recycled metals in your choice of sterling silver or pink, green, yellow or white gold. Prices available on request. 5. S&R Designs Vino necklace. Inside each bottle is an engraved secret message, personalized to your specifications. Pendant with faceted white topaz and diamonds in 18K yellow gold and blackened sterling silver. Chain sold separately. $2,145.
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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
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Let it all hang loose in a statement-making necklace.
T H E O R I G I N ATO R O F C U LT U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .
from the
RUNWAYS
2 QUITE THE GENTLEMAN Fall fashion for men takes a well-tailored turn.
3
1
5 1. Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Military Ceramic watch with ceramic dial on a rubber strap, $4,500 2. Jan Leslie Bull & Bear cufflinks in sterling silver, $450 3. Hermès Cape Cod automatic watch on an alligator strap, $5,350 4. Deakin & Francis Wellington Boot cufflinks with enamel in sterling silver, $475 5. David Yurman mens’ bands with diamonds in sterling silver; Band with white diamonds in titanium and sterling silver, $2,700; Band with black diamonds in titanium and sterling silver, $1,850 6. David Yurman cufflinks with red poppy jasper in sterling silver, $595
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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY IMAGE.NET
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freelancer collection
TOP 5
MIXING
IT UP
2
Warm up with a holiday cocktail, brought to you by Rochester’s hottest libation lounges. JENN BERGIN 3
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Almond Fat-Washed Sidecar
Whiskey Over Easy
Volcano Moreno
Lion's Tail
Root Down Milk Punch
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TOP 5
MAKE IT
PERSONAL
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Create wow with custom gifts. JENN BERGIN 2
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[1] You can’t give him the shirt off your back, so give him something better. Help create a custom-designed dress shirt from Adrian Jules Custom Clothiers for the special man in your life. Whether he’s fashionforward or needs a little focus, the consultants at Adrian Jules will help him to design a one-ofa-kind dress shirt that’s a perfect fit for his frame, look and lifestyle. Whether it’s a larger cuff to fit over a Rolex, twill or herringbone, contrast button stitching, the perfect pocket square, or a lined collar and cuffs, every option for customization will be covered in a one-hour consultation. And if that’s not tailored enough, initials and signatures in script can even be stitched into the shirt for an additional charge. Visit adrianjules.com to schedule a consultation or purchase a gift certificate. Prices for custom-designed dress shirts begin at $195 and take 4 to 6 weeks for delivery. 2930 Monroe Ave adrianjules.com
[2] Long gone are the days of the computer geek. It’s easy to be tech savvy in style with this sleek and compact lightweight leather iPad sleeve. Securely stow your can’t-live-without digital device in an envelope of high-grade, handcrafted leather. Personalize by choosing between pink, orange, lime or turquoise, and then label with a monogram of glittering gold. The result is stylish protection for all generations of iPads and tablets on the market today. This, and many other personalized leather accessories are available at Mann’s Jewelers. iPad case, $125 with personalization. 2945 Monroe Ave mannsjewelers.com
[3] What’s in a name? A lot. Show the special woman in your life how very unique you think she is with monogrammed jewelry from Mann’s Jewelers —so precious and so personal. Start by choosing between a bracelet, necklace or ring and then choose a preferred metal, sterling silver or 14k gold in rose or yellow. Diamonds also available with select styles to reflect her sparkling personality. Necklaces start at $165. 2945 Monroe Ave mannsjewelers.com
[4] Give a gift that stands apart in the sea of holiday gift cards. It’s not for a massage or a pedicure—it’s for custom blend foundation at Scott Miller Salon and Spa. Makeup artists pamper you as they determine your perfect palette, all by expertly studying the science of your skin. Within minutes you have a blended foundation made to flawlessly match your skin tone, texture and coloring. Headed to the Sunshine State to beat winter blues? Just stop in to add a little color to your foundation and match your tan. No lines, no fuss—and all the fun. A steal at $38 for a one-ounce bottle that’s guaranteed to last as long as any department store brand. 3340 Monroe Ave scottmillerstyle.com
[5] Looking for a great go-to gift for everyone from the holiday hostess to your hard-working husband? Purchase any bottle of Gentleman Jack Tennessee Whiskey, Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey or Woodford Reserve Double Oaked (prices start at $31 for 750ml) from Century Liquor and Wines and have the bottle engraved for free. Who knew drinking Scotch could be so sentimental? The service is offered around Father’s Day and back just in time for the holidays. It’s been so popular, even Army sergeants have gifted the bottles to deployed soldiers, engraved with name, rank and unit. All bottles are engraved in-store, while you wait. Free samples and engraving will be available at the Pittsford location November 22-23 and December 22-23. 3349 Monroe Ave centuryliquorandwines.com
GOOD FOOD
GOOD DRINKS
GOOD TIMES
ERIE celebrate the season with us
4 1 N O R T H MA I N S T R E E T / / P I T T S F O R D, N Y / / 5 8 5 . 4 1 9 . 3 0 3 2
TOP 5
IT’S A
WRAP
Five Rochester tastemakers think outside the box, each adorning a perfectly plain white package in their signature style. JENN BERGIN
[1] Organic luxe – it’s the juxtaposition between pairing natural and raw elements with sleek details. And for Charles Arena, it’s a lifestyle. As local florist extraordinaire, he has spent a lifetime creating beautiful gifts. He knows that what’s on the outside should reflect what’s on the inside. Arena’s packaging emanates style and personality, creates suspense, and emphasizes sentiment. If you don’t know the recipient on a personal level, he suggests using the seasons for design inspiration and as a simple way to make a statement.
[2] Sometimes you don’t even need a card, when your wrap is just so... you. If you’ve ever seen the bright, colorful and MacKenzie-Childs-inspired offices of Dixon Schwabl, then you will recognize the famous courtly check print ribbon as a Lauren Dixon signature. She lets her personality shine through with fun and whimsical wrapping. It’s a festive twist on traditional, with holiday red and green taken up a notch.
[3] It’s all about making moments memorable for Kelli Berg, event coordinator and owner of Simply Beautiful Events. For an unforgettable gift, she uses lots of detail in her design. When impeccably and thoughtfully done, great presentation can make an impression that lasts longer than the gift itself, she says. Still, you don’t have to be crafty to show you care. If creativity is just not your cup of eggnog, use the card to express how you feel. That’s a gift that keeps on giving.
[5] [4] Having designed spaces ranging from the interior of Next Door Bar & Grill to her own yoga sanctuary, Stency Wegman knows how to establish ambiance. She naturally creates flow by thinking in terms of theme. Paying attention to trends in color and pattern, she wrapped a gift for “Baby’s First Christmas.” She adds a classic and sentimental touch with adornments on the outside of the package that can be used in another way: for example, a sterling silver baby rattle that can become a family heirloom.
Whether talking wrapping or the written word, surprise and sentiment are important to copywriter and creative guru Kate Sonnick. The present is in the presentation when the gift box is enveloped with fun vintage finds like this YSL silk scarf and Jackie O-esque sunglasses. Presents don’t need to be pricey to be personal, she says. For example, she once wrapped a gift for a friend who loves skiing using items that no self-respecting powder-hound would be without: a trail map, powder cords and duct tape. She suggests using children’s drawings to wrap a Mother’s Day or birthday gift.
Red Carpet
DAVE M. BENETT/GETTY IMAGES
BRAD PITT at the London premiere of World War Z
PIAGET
BRIT MARLING at the New York premiere of The East
DREAMY IN BLACK &WHITE Bling shines bright against fashion’s timeless palette.
STUART C. WILSON/GETTY IMAGES FOR PARAMOUNT PICTURES
JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
CHARRIOL
ZOE SALDANA at the London premiere of Star Trek: Into Darkness
AMBER VALLETTA at an EIF Women’s Cancer Research Fund event
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Pois Moi Collection
PIAGET
NORMAN SILVERMAN/KATERINA MAXINE
LUCIAN CAPELLARO/GETTY IMAGES FOR PARAMOUNT PICTURES
MIREILLE ENOS at the London premiere of World War Z
PATRICIA CLARKSON at the New York Premiere of The East
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
JANELLE MONAE at the BET Awards
CLIVE OWEN at the 66th Annual Cannes Film Festival
CARRIE PRESTON at the True Blood Season 6 premiere 30
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
STATE ROOM
LIZA MINELLI at Avery Fisher Hall at Lincoln Center
The Pantone Fashion Color Report is the foremost international authority on colors and trends for the upcoming fashion season. It was created nearly 50 years ago with the purpose of simplifying decision-making and buying processes for fashion designers, industry leaders and enthusiasts. The report showcases the latest fashion trends and predictions —
MYKONOS BLUE
KOI
ACAI
BEAUJOLAIS
all in the name of style. V I VAC I O U S
SAMBA
DEEP LICHEN GREEN
LINDEN GREEN
EMERALD
CARAFE
TURBULENCE
As a new season of style debuted during Fall 2013 Fashion Week, so did a new palette of fall colors, compliments of Pantone. For the brisk days ahead, there are several bright hues to enhance and enliven as colder months set in, such as red Samba and orange-based Koi, while all-time favorites such as Emerald and Carafe step onto the scene. From dark gray Turbulence to brilliant magenta-toned Vivacious, the options are endless. From serious fashionistas to those just looking to update their wardrobes, jewelry will complement the refreshingly refined styles and the classics. There’s a gemstone to invigorate any outfit and set the stage for individual style and character.
%68 ()7-+2 &9-0(-2+ SR %RHIVWSR
Contemporary Art and Design
‘First Ladies Piano’ Commissioned by Steinway & Sons
‘Cattleman’s Gold’ by Jim DeLucia 3’ x 3’ Oil and Graphite on Canvas
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w w w. a x o m g a l l er y. c o m
robin muto interior
&
lighting design
‘Marshland’ by Rick Muto 10� x 12� Plein Air Oil on Board
‘Family Room’ Williamsville, NY
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%2()6732 %:) ˆ 63',)78)6 2= ˆ
COLLECTIONS
ORGANIC HARMONY
David Yurman’s new Willow collection is all about energy, enchantment and enduring magic.
“Like everything in nature, it’s perfectly asymmetric.” —David Yurman
A
t David Yurman’s country home is a pond, a peaceful place where willows arch over the water. An early evening walk to this spot inspired Willow, a new jewelry collection he created with his wife, Sybil. The graceful designs interpret David Yurman’s iconic cable motif in a feminine way, and effortlessly layer with his existing collections. Like fronds dancing on a light breeze, there is a kinetic energy in Willow. Each strand of cable is carefully placed to create a natural effect, with pavé diamonds shimmering like evening light on velvety, soft buds. “There’s a bit of
organic harmony,” says Yurman. “Like everything in nature, it’s perfectly asymmetric.” Willow also takes a cue from the classics. As with all David Yurman collections, ancient art and symbolism shape each design. In mythology, the willow is the tree of enchantment. Now, in precious metal and sparkling diamonds, you can also be captivated by the Willow collection’s enduring magic. The range of styles includes bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings in sterling silver and 18 karat gold with pavé diamonds.
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PERFECTGEMS EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER. DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
HOLIDAY SPIRIT
For over 60 years the Italians have kept Franciacorta pretty much to themselves. This lively and sophisticated sparkling wine from the Lombardy region is not only considered the best in Italy, but many connoisseurs regard it as one of the finest sparkling wines in the world. The most prestigious Franciacorta is produced by award-winning oenologist Mattia Vezzola at Bellavista, a nearly 500-acre vineyard owned by the Moretti family. To help celebrate the season, Bellavista Franciacorta is now available at chic shops across America. (Impress your guests with the top marque, Vittorio Moretti Millesimato Extra Brut 2004.) If you want to experience Franciacorta at the source, visit L’Albereta, the Morettis’ beautiful Relais & Chateaux villa overlooking the vineyards and Lake Iseo, to taste the wines and wander the picturesque Lombardy countryside.
PRIVACY ON THE HIGH SEAS
With just one cabin, ideal for an amorous couple, the sleek, 100-foot Alexa is the ultimate in romance on the sea, cruising the Indian Ocean and catering to the tender twosome’s every whim. The quarters feature antique and contemporary art, silk rugs, a white ensuite bedroom surrounded by windows, and a balcony for private breakfasts or late-night stargazing. Seven crewmembers include the captain, the cruise directors (who are also dive masters), the chef (who prepares gourmet food paired with excellent wines), and because the Alexa is co-owned by Talika, the innovative French cosmetic brand, a resident skin therapist. The ardent duo decides the schedule, activities and itinerary: dive to untouched coral reefs, explore uninhabited islands, have a massage or a full program of personalized beauty treatments, swim naked with manta rays... or just make love all day.
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CREATURES AND COMFORTS
JOHN ALDERSON/CHICAGO HISTORY MUSEUM
Northwest of Johannesburg, South Africa, in the heart of the 75,000-hectare Madikwe Game Reserve, the Molori Safari Lodge is a captivating combination of stylish interior design and fascinating wildlife. The five suites’ interiors are by Fendi, Kenneth Cobonpue and Philipp Plein. There are wooden decks, private infinity pools and fully retractable floor-to-ceiling glass walls. Molori’s cuisine is under the direction of gourmet chefs, who prepare meals from local ingredients and serve them alongside South African wines. Outside, there’s fishing in the Groot Marico River or golf at nearby courses. The view from the swimming pool includes a watering hole that attracts black and white rhino and zebras. And there are elephants, lions, buffalo, cheetahs, brown hyenas, hippopotami and more than 340 bird species, most of which can be seen during one of the customized game drives.
CELEBRATING STYLE
YOUR VERY OWN CHOCOLATE
The Chicago History Museum is currently presenting Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair. Beginning in 1958 and continuing for 50 years, the Ebony Fashion Fair traveling fashion show blossomed into an American institution that raised millions for charity. The Chicago History Museum presentation, one of the largest special exhibitions in the museum’s history, introduces visitors to Eunice Walker Johnson, who became Ebony Fashion Fair’s producer and director in 1963 and brought the pinnacle of European fashion to communities that were eager to see new images of black America. The 7,000-square-foot display, with over 60 magnificent garments from designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, Givenchy, Christian LaCroix and Patrick Kelly, will be running through the winter.
Tache Artisan Chocolate on New York City’s Lower East Side is the creation of Aditi Malhotra, a graduate of the Glion Institute in Switzerland and the French Culinary Institute. Her handcrafted confections, made from Peruvian, Venezuelan, Brazilian and Belgian chocolate (no artificial colorings, flavorings or additives) include gold dusted Champagne truffles, chocolates with imported orange and lemon peel, and the remarkable tequila bonbon, a dark chocolate shell filled with tequila ganache and topped off with fleur de sel and lime. Malhotra also makes and ships personalized chocolates, filled or mixed with just about anything: an abundance of fruit… nuts and spices… a favorite vintage wine or liqueur... maybe even blue cheese. The sky (or at least the Milky Way) is the limit.
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Pure Elegance The elegant writing implements in the “Intuition” series are manufactured from a single piece of precious resin. The interplay between the contrasting colors of the gleaming polished barrels and the deep black cap is beautifully accentuated by the platinum-plated metal parts. Each 18k bicolor gold nib is carefully “run in” by hand
©2013 movado group, inc.
CERENA™ WOMEN’S MODERN WHITE CERAMIC AND STAINLESS STEEL DESIGN, THE BEZEL SET WITH 120 DIAMONDS.
WINE
OPUS ONE
Chatting with the maker of one of the world's most iconic blends. ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
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Opus One winemaker Michael Silacci
around. But as you taste the vintages, you find there's a consistency, a mouth feel and texture that helps define Opus One each year." Silacci also isn't afraid to continue to explore the potential of the wine, whether through scientific means (he introduced nighttime harvesting to catch the grapes at their plumpest, and added parfumist/scientist Alexander Schmidt to the roster of people who analyze the blend each vintage), through management (vine workers are specifically trained and dedicated to harvesting grapes for Opus One, and everyone from harvesters to accountants have a hand in finalizing each vintage) or through sheer gut instinct, as in 2006 when "two beautiful lots of Petit Verdot" inspired him to risk co-fermenting the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. "My gut feeling was that it would work." Silacci is also adamant that, while Opus One is a top-tier wine, it displays an aura of welcomeness. The winery recently opened its doors to visitors (by appointment online, though you can often secure an appointment when you drop in), and though the wine is crafted to age well for 20 years or more, it's also plenty tasty upon bottling (unlike some of the stuffier Bordeaux). "When you taste a newly released Opus One, it's not masked by oak, since we age in new French oak. That tells me that the wine has substance and the oak is just one component. It also tells me the wine is going to age."
IMAGES COURTESY OPUS ONE WINES
A
mong serious wine fans and collectors, a handful of truly iconic wines stand out, revered for their longevity (like the Premier Cru houses in Bordeaux), their innovation (as when the Super Tuscans dared to introduce French grapes to Italian wine culture), or the sheer quality of their product. Like Latour, Ornellaia and Stag's Leap, Oakville-based Opus One wows connoissuers and collectors alike with its product. Unlike the other labels, however, Opus One is dedicated to producing only one expression each vintage: a Cabernet Sauvignon-driven blend with a Bordeaux influence and a decidedly Californian approach. "Everything about Opus One, from the buildings to the vineyards to the principles of viticulutre, was made by consensus," says winemaker Michael Silacci. The winery was created in 1980 by two giants in the wine world: Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild. The idea was that a serious, Premier Cru Bordeaux-style wine could be created in California's Napa Valley, which was only just establishing its claim as a serious wine region. Silacci joined the group in 2001 as a DOVE (director of viticulture and oenology) before being appointed winemaker in 2004. "The entire focus is on creating a single red wine," says Silacci. "To keep that sense of purpose, you need to have a very deep understanding about what you're doing." He also stresses that they're not making the same wine each year, but adjusting the blend (using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec) as growing conditions require. "Malbec (introduced to the blend in 1994) adds spice and character; Petit Verdot (first introduced in 1997) adds structure. "It may seem, if you look at the varietal composition, that we're bouncing all
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FOOD
GULF GOURMET
The food’s haute in Low Country. SHIRA LEVINE
CHEF STEVE ZUCKER
Some of the best chefs start very young: you were 17. Because I was extremely young and raw, I was able to fall in love with cooking and really go for it. But I had to learn the old-school way, first by watching and then working my way up. I did that before I went to culinary school and it has benefited me my whole career. I learned to have eyes in the back of my head and multitask. You’ve cooked all around the world, yet you still live in a small beach town along the Gulf of Alabama. I’ve traveled all over: South Korea, Taiwan, Italy, France. I’ve worked in Maui, Las Vegas. I went to Johnson & Wales in Rhode Island. But honestly, there is nowhere I’d rather be than here in Alabama, working with Big Bob on our good food and good hospitality. We’re running 12 different kitchens. We have some restaurants that were destroyed by hurricanes. But the reality is, everywhere I’ve lived there has been [the threat that] something devastating can happen. Down here we have tough people who love life. They appreciate every day. Why is the South such a special place for food? A gumbo can change from town to town. (Our gumbo made the Guinness Book of World Records!) Everyone has their own unique style; I love that and I love traveling through these states learning about the history of our food. We have the best blue crabs, better than the Chesapeake’s, and the most incredible oysters. Our red snapper, grouper, mahi and flounder are killer good. Then we have great dirt for vegetables and fruit, and plenty of game: deer, alligator, rabbit. What has influenced you as a chef? I’m influenced by Louisiana, where I’m from, but Lower Alabama is my home now. We have great people making great sauces using the greatest ingredients. Jean Louis Palladin and John Besh are chefs that have inspired me. Michel Richard changed my outlook on food. He put on a meal with texture as well as flavor, textures I’d never experienced before. I ate with him at Citrus in L.A. on my way to Taipei, and he used a lot of crazy savory stuff. What are your favorite dishes? I love something as simple as a Gulf oyster or a simply prepared fish. And there is nothing better than a good gumbo. What about non-southern food? Likes or dislikes? I love me some kimchee. I’m not a huge fan of tripe.
S
outhern kitchens have long produced some of the best chefs (and most delicious dishes) in America. The post-colonial influences of Creole, African, Cajun, French and Native American cultures have infused powerful, exotic flavors into what can now be considered not just southern food, but southern cuisine. Cooking pros and restaurant reviewers with a focus on this epicurean niche know that all the good grub can no longer be lumped into the ‘greasy spoon and fried’ category. Rather, they recognize the Low Country for its unique ingredients and ability to infuse traditional classics with cutting-edge innovation. Historically, agriculture has thrived down in the five Gulf States — Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama and Florida — due to rich, fertile soil and the Gulf of Mexico’s warm, seafood-filled waters. But despite the wealth of fresh ingredients, southern living hasn’t always been easy living. The last seven years have pummeled the region with deadly hurricanes and record-breaking flooding of the Mississippi River system, not to mention one of the worst oil spills in recorded history. But business is back: docks have been rebuilt, boats restored and cleaned. Ecosystems and estuaries are returning to their former splendor. We spoke with top chefs from Alabama, Louisiana and Mississippi about their home-cooked chow and the love and passion they deliver onto our plates.
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IMAGE TOP LEFT GETTY 1
Corporate chef for Aloha Hospitality based in Orange Beach, Alabama
CHEF ROB STINSON Owner of Salute Italian Seafood, Lookout Seafood & Steaks, and Back Bay Seafood Tell us about what inspired you to become a chef. I’ve been in the restaurant business since I was 15 working as a busboy. I moved to New Orleans at a young age to start my culinary career with Cordon Bleu Chef Gerald Thabuis at Broussard’s Restaurant in the French Quarter. I furthered my education in Italy working with Master Italian Chef Ciro Cuomo, and eventually moved to Long Beach, Mississippi, where I opened my first self-owned restaurant, Long Beach Lookout. Italy in general is my true inspiration for great food and wine. (I could retire there tomorrow and be content.) I really love Long Beach and Gulfport because it’s where restaurants have prospered. I’m proud to call those areas home now. I have opened 31 restaurants, six of my own; I love the thrill and excitement of opening restaurants. What makes Mississippi so special for you? We have the best seafood in the world. Back in the late-1800s, Biloxi was the seafood capital of the country and had already started shipping seafood all over the country by railroad. The flavors of the South are truly different than anywhere else: spicy, flavorful, with a unique blend of immigrant influences. You’ve gone to great lengths to share how healthy your food can be. What’s the trick? The trick is to package healthy in a way that makes customers feel as if they’re not sacrificing taste. Great spicy, sweet and sour flavors add contrast in the dishes; texture and color give the diner the experience of eating with their eyes and taste buds, to bring about satisfaction while still eating healthy. Fresh local produce, seafood and proteins help. I find that crisp, colorful veggies as additions to our fresh-seared entrees make the diner feel he’s gotten his money’s worth. My new show, Fit to Eat, which airs on Mississippi Public Broadcasting, has allowed me to showcase some of my favorite local ingredients prepared in a healthy manner. Where do you like to eat when you’re not busy cooking? My favorite restaurant is Bayona in New Orleans. Chef and owner Susan Spicer is truly the ultimate creative talent. My favorite restaurant in Mississippi is Jordan River Steamer owned by Hank Plauche. Unfortunately, Isaac destroyed his great location, but he’s in the process of rebuilding. What are your personal comfort foods? Shrimp, chicken and veggies prepared Asian style.
CHEFS NEALY CRAWFORD AND KEITH FRENTZ Married chef duo and owners of Lola in Covington, Louisiana Do you like working together as a couple? It’s great, there’s no question about it. We’re a package. Of course we have ups and downs depending on our moods, but we know what each other needs to get the job done. There isn’t a lot of talking in our kitchen. We can be at each other’s throats, but 99 percent of the time we’re good. We always end with a smile and a quiet ride home. As young chefs starting to garner buzz, why did you opt to open a restaurant outside of the New Orleans-proper food scene? We left the city because of Hurricane Katrina; we opened the January after it hit. Our restaurant is in Covington, where I’m from. The first year we opened we were voted Best Chefs of the North Shore of Louisiana. We got Chefs to Watch in Louisiana Cooking magazine; we were two of the five. This year we were named the King and Queen of Louisiana Seafood and we got second place in the Great American Seafood Cook-off. We do a lot of community work as well, so people have really gotten to know Lola and us. How do you describe Louisiana food, and what makes it so special? We are comfort food. We’re Sunday family dinner with a fancy twist. We take those old southern recipes and use newer ingredients. We’ll use different types of rice blends in our jambalaya to make a different flavor; we put mascarpone in our grits and collard greens. We can walk to the corner fish market and buy fish and shrimp that, just hours before, were swimming in the salty water of the Mississippi Sound and the Gulf of Mexico. Simple food has developed over the years from farmers’ tables. It’s food that was always seasonally influenced and home grown. What should people know about southern food that they might not already know? You have to take your time to research a city and be food-aware of the area. Southern food doesn’t have to be the tourist crap with cream sauce. At Lola, we grill, roast and braise to get away from that stigma of being fried, greasy and buttery. We let our fresh crab and shrimp speak for themselves. What’s your favorite restaurant other than your own? We like Patois in uptown New Orleans, and also Dominica. Those are our local favorites. With our second child on the way, we haven’t been traveling much! But there is this little yellow, open-air restaurant in Cozumel, Mexico that we love. It’s so authentic and cool, with fresh fish and killer salsa. We are Mexican food freaks.
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CUSTOM MOSAIC AND HAND-MADE SUBWAY TILE
PHOTO CREDIT TO: MATT WITTMEYER
FAIRPORT RESIDENCE
TRAVEL TIPS
WORKING IT
HOW TO GET UPGRADES WITHOUT EVEN TRYING. BY LENORE RICH
W
ithout question, perks are addictive. Once you’re accustomed to the good life, it’s hard to go back. But as computers become more sophisticated, armed with every bit of data about me, my ability to embellish my qualifications for an upgrade is as antiquated as thinking a logo-embellished designer tote will do the trick. This will no longer work—there are just too many bag imposters out there. Nor will demanding an upgrade using frequent flyer points (accumulated mainly through purchases): the airline’s computer already knows who has more points than I do, and who actually flew on its planes to acquire them. So what does work? Hotel loyalty programs, complimentary in most cases, will give you automatic upgrades, maybe breakfast, perhaps a better room, spa entrance, free WiFi access, etc. Just check out their website and sign up.
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My favorite credit card, Starwood Preferred guest, gives me one point for each dollar spent, transferrable to most airlines. For every 20,000 points I move into an airline account, they rebate 5,000 more points, making it possible to get a better deal from Starwood than from the actual airline. The points are also redeemable towards hotel rooms and tickets to special events. The Hyatt card doesn’t charge international fees and gives you two free nights at any Hyatt in the world. Automatic platinum status is an additional perk. I recently stayed for free in a beautiful New York City Hyatt, was upgraded to a suite and treated royally—all for the $75 annual fee. The day before you arrive at any hotel, call the front desk to confirm your room and strike up a conversation with your new best friend. Upon check-in, remind him or her of your previous conversation. On that note, human interaction (a smile, a compliment, casual conversation, eye contact) is the most obvious but easily overlooked art form in this era of social media and virtual ‘friendships.’ It’s also not a bad idea to compliment another branch of the hotel brand. In most cases, there’s a degree of ‘sibling rivalry’ between them and they’ll try to out-do each other. And never underestimate the importance of good jewelry. I once stood in a box office line to get tickets to a nearly sold-out show. The attendant was wearing a beautiful pin and I complimented her on it. After hours of handing tickets to patrons who never even looked up at her, she was delighted and in turn complimented me on my earrings. A short conversation ensued and I landed house seats. When traveling, I try to wear either bold, creative jewelry or simple pieces in unexpected ways. Thematic pins are always conversation starters, and sometimes more is more—especially since it’s safer to wear it than pack it! A final tip that always works: don’t forget to mention that you’re celebrating a special occasion. (But better not make it a birthday unless it’s true: the computer already knows…)
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THE ARTS
BALLETS RUSSES
A blending of creative talents that forever changed the face of art. DAVID HOWLETT
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3.
2.
1. Léon Bakst, Costume for a Beotian Shepherd from Narcissus, 1911, painted cotton. Victoria and Albert Museum, London 2. Jean Cocteau, Vaslav Nijinsky from The Spirit of the Rose, poster for the opening season of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées, Paris 1913, color lithograph. Victoria and Albert Museum, London 3. Henri Matisse, Costume for a Warrior from The Song of the Nightingale, 1920, felt, velvet, satin and silk with paint, gold tinsel, studs and braid, and brass decorations. Victoria and Albert Museum, London 4. Léon Bakst, Costume design for Vaslav Nijinsky as the Faun from The Afternoon of a Faun, 1912, graphite, tempera and gold paint on laid charcoal paper. Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art, Hartford, Connecticut
A
few years ago, Lady Gaga made a music video in which she sang and danced wearing a hat designed by architect Frank Gehry. This collaboration, however remarkable, pales in comparison to the synergy achieved by the Ballets Russes (pronounced balay roos) in Paris 100 years ago. Impresario Serge Diaghilev brought his dance troupe to Paris in 1909, when unrest in Russia had caused a withdrawal of royal patronage. For the next 20 years, he brought his performers together with the world’s greatest composers, artists and fashion designers in a display unlike any other. Washington’s National Gallery of Art recently devoted two floors to Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes from 1909 to 1929. The show combined sketches for outfits, paintings and photographs of the dancers, set designs and miraculously preserved costumes, original programs and posters, punctuated with short projections of modern companies performing some of the Ballet Russes projects: The Rite of Spring, The Firebird, Daphnis and Chloé, and Petrushka. All 40 of the costumes on display, although a century old, are still in remarkably good condition. Fashion and costume designers who worked for Diaghilev included Coco Chanel (1883-1971), Alexandre Benois (1870-1960) and Léon Bakst (1866-1924). Materials included wool, felt, velvet and printed cotton. The colors are still vibrant and the high quality of the needlework is still apparent. In addition to professional clothing designers, Diaghilev turned to artists of the day for costume ideas. Contributors included Picasso, Matisse and Di Chirico. Artists also treated the Ballets Russes as a subject:
the works include a portrait of designer Léon Bakst by Modigliani, a sculpture by Rodin of mercurial dancer Vaslav Nijinsky, and two sensitive portraits of dancer Olga Khokhlova by Picasso. (The painter and the dancer married in 1918 and remained so until Khokhlova’s death in 1955, although Picasso’s other love interests were legendary.) The composers whose music was utilized by the Ballets Russes included the greatest of the day: Stravinsky, Prokofiev, Debussy and Millaud, among others. One true treasure that remains is the huge stage backdrop for the final act of Stravinsky’s The Firebird (1926), designed by Natalia Goncharova. The tapestry measures an amazing 51 by 33 feet, so the observer is dwarfed by this item and momentarily feels like a dancer on the stage. The importance of the Ballets Russes in its time might be hard for us to understand, given the diminished role ballet has in the arts today. The premiere of The Rite of Spring in 1913 nearly caused a riot, since half the audience loved it and half were scandalized. Nijinsky was a fascinating character who specialized in androgynous roles, the best known of which was based on Claude Debussy’s Afternoon of a Faun. Nijinsky’s descent into mental illness coincided with the slow decline of the Ballets Russes itself. The golden age of the company ended in 1929 with the death of Diaghilev and the onset of the Great Depression. Recently, the New York City Ballet has worked with designers Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Joseph Altuzarra and Gilles Mendel, so perhaps there is a chance we are entering a new era of partnership among the arts. But for the apex of collaboration between fashion, music, dance, and visual art, history will always point to the Ballets Russes.
As the apex of
collaboration between fashion, music, dance and visual art,
history will always
point to the Ballets Russes.
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4.
CULTURE
CAFÉ SOCIETY
AT BUDAPEST’S FAMOUS CAFÉS, OLD WORLD CHARM IS NEW AGAIN. BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE
L
ong before “café culture” flourished in Paris and Vienna, it thrived in Budapest. The joy of coffee drinking was introduced by the invading Ottoman Turks in the 1500s, and by Budapest’s Golden Age, between 1870 and 1910, there were some 500 coffee houses in the city. In their heyday, Budapest’s cafés were cherished rendezvous spots for aspiring writers, poets, artists and intelligentsia of all stripes. People spent hours in their favorite café, sharing ideas and reading the many newspapers and periodicals available to patrons. Before the age of television and the Internet, for up-to-the-minute news and the most interesting gossip, you’d head to one of these cafés. During this period, the cafés were so central to daily life that when the first early film reels appeared, they were projected on walls in the cafés. (Two eventual film industry giants, director and producer Sir Alexander Korda and Oscar-winning director Michael Curtiz, were first introduced to movies this way. Later on, in Casablanca, Curtiz would recreate Budapest’s café atmosphere on the set of Rick’s Café.)
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Most of the classic Budapest coffee houses had sumptuous interiors, plush furnishings, gleaming chandeliers, and high, frescoed ceilings to rival the Sistine Chapel. But, after two World Wars and the Communist era in Hungary, the old famous cafés had been destroyed or closed. In recent years, many of these once-grand cafés have been restored to their original splendor. NEW YORK CAFÉ Opened in 1894 on the ground floor of a stylish office complex, designed by architect Alajos Hauszmann and financed by a New York life insurance company, the café was a favorite haunt of the writers and editors who worked in the building (now a five-star Boscolo hotel). For struggling writers, the New York provided free ink and paper and offered a low-cost “writer’s menu” (bread, cheese and cold cuts). During Budapest’s Golden Age, much of the city’s creative business took place here or at the Café Central. CAFÉ CENTRÁL Opened in 1887, the Central was a popular meeting place for writers, poets, editors and artists. In the 1890s, writers sitting Above: New York Café; during Budapest’s Golden Age, it was a hotbed of creative activity.
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around the café began an influential literary periodical, A Hét (Week). A few years later, another group of regulars, who divided their time between the Central and the New York, launched Nyugat (West), which became one of the most influential Hungarian literary journals of the early 20th century. CAFÉ GERBEAUD Founded by confectioner Henrik Kugler in 1858, this is regarded as one of the most elegant and refined cafés. In 1884, its Swiss pastry chef, Emile Gerbeaud, took over the establishment, making it as famous for its cakes as its coffee. BOOKCAFÉ PÁRIZSI ÁRUHÁZ This stunning café is located on the third floor of what is now the Alexandra bookstore. The Art Nouveau building, designed by Zsigmond Sziklai, was opened in 1911 as Párizsi Nagy Árúház, Budapest’s first modern department store. The café, in Lotz hall, is resplendent with restored frescos (done by painter Károly Lotz), large mirrors and magnificent chandeliers.
Clockwise from top: Centrál Kávéház, a popular meeting place for writers, poets and artists. The elegant Café Gerbeaud. BookCafé Párizsi Áruház in Lotz hall in the Alexandra Bookstore.
Budapest’s Famous Cafés The best time to visit Budapest is between March and October; Delta and American Airlines offer direct flights. Visit www.gotohungary.com to learn more. New York Café New York Palace Hotel at Erzsébet körút 9-11; www.newyorkcafe.hu MÛVÉSZ KÁVÉHÁZ Around since 1898, its name mûvész means artist. Since the café is located opposite the Budapest State Opera House, it has attracted its fair share of artists and performers over the years. CAFÉ GERLÓCZY On a leafy square, in a pretty 1892 building, the Gerlóczy has the feel of a Parisian café with its wonderful croissants and freshly-baked pastries—some consider it the best breakfast in town. At night, a harpist adds to the atmosphere. Another unique Gerlóczy offering: 15 stylish rooms in its upstairs boutique hotel, so you never have to leave!
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Café Centrál Károlyi Mihály utca 9 www.centralkavehaz.hu Café Gerbeaud Vörösmarty tér 7; www.gerbeaud.hu BookCafé Párizsi Áruház, Alexandra bookstore, Andrássy út 39 Mûvész Kávéház Andrássy út 29; www.muveszkavehaz.hu Café Gerlóczy Gerloczy u. 1; www.gerloczy.hu For an interesting read, try The Great Escape. This wonderful book by Kati Marton, about influential Hungarians, describes life in the Budapest cafés at the turn of the 20th century.
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HEALTH & FITNESS
ROC
BOXING A fighting chance at getting fit. JENN BERGIN
T
here’s no such thing as fighting like a girl, says local boxing legend Dom Arioli, owner of ROC Boxing & Fitness. “Girls can fight,” he says. “Especially the ones we train.” ROC Boxing & Fitness began as a training facility for amateur and professional boxers. The gym now uses those same traditional boxing methods in classes and personal training, offering raw and rigorous cardiovascular conditioning to anyone serious about getting and staying fit. This isn’t Zumba. Here you will jump rope, shadow box, train with kettlebells, and punch the bag. It’s old-school boot campstyle conditioning. “Boxing is a total body workout,” says Dana Chubb, certified USA Boxing Coach and trainer at ROC Boxing & Fitness. “By no means are my classes easy, but I enjoy pushing the girls because I know they love the results.” Boxing has taken the fitness world by storm. Whether or not you actually want to get in the ring, everyone wants to be in “boxer shape,” says Chubb. She guarantees that an hour-long workout at ROC Boxing will burn more calories than anything else offered at a more conventional gym. “This gym is about fitness and sport; there’s no front... there’s no show,” says Katie Lally, who began boxing five years ago to lose weight and get in shape. As a busy career woman, she finds that boxing also helps relieve her stress. It has become a necessary part of her weekly workout routine. “I love that when I walk into the gym I feel no pressure,” she says. “You know that feeling you get when you walk into other gyms sometimes, where you feel like everyone is just checking each other out? Instead, ROC Boxing exudes an old-school boxing feeling that makes you feel pumped when you walk through the door, like you’re entering into a Rocky movie!” Lally is also member of Midtown Athletic Club and does lots of running, cardio and strength training on her own. Still, she says the core of her fitness routine is at ROC Boxing, where she gets her best workouts in and
feels the most “at home” when training. “I’m a strong woman on the inside—intelligent, successful and confident,” she says. “And on the outside I’m toned and defined, not skinny and frail. Boxing helps me to achieve the look and feeling I want about my body.” Not to mention, she can throw a punch. “It’s cool as a woman to know you can throw a punch correctly, but also that you’ve got the power to throw a punch harder than a lot of men,” she says. Of course, there’s much more to boxing than just a knockout, says Coach Dom. “We understand our clients. It’s not just about a stopwatch and a whistle,” he says. Boxing improves cardiovascular health and stimulates weight loss, provides a sense of control and power, and builds discipline and self-esteem. It can help to enhance athletic performance, improving a golfer’s swing or a tennis game. The coaches at ROC Boxing have helped to condition everyone from high school to advanced CrossFit athletes, the Rochester Knighthawks, and musicians at the Eastman School of Music. “Whether our members are here just for the workout or to get ready for amateur fights, we prepare them all the same way,” says Coach Chubb. “Here at our gym you know that you are getting top-ofthe-line certified training.” A life-long athlete, Coach Chubb has won numerous kettlebell championships and amateur fights. “I’ve walked into the arena with my heels on, changed into my boxing shoes to fight—and then walked right out those doors after, back in my heels,” she says. “I’ve had to prove to a lot of people that girls can do anything. And look good while doing it, too!”
Mitchell Niemeyer
TW423
ø
40 MM
PROFILE
BACK IN THE
U.S. GROOVE
Shinola puts the shine back on Made in America. JACQUELIN CARNEGIE
O
nce upon a time, America streamlined of designs, Shinola’s creative had a proud tradition director, Daniel Caudill, set the tone for the of manufacturing and look and style of the products, then began craftsmanship. But in recent years, due hiring and training. In addition, the to economic considerations, most of the company partnered with a select group of business of making things has been high-quality, family-owned businesses in outsourced to Asia and India. America’s heartland for the acquisition of A few years ago, Bedrock goods and parts. Manufacturing in Dallas decided to The watches, which feature quartz buck the trend by launching and Argonite movements, are hand assembled investing in innovative and creative by a team that underwent extensive Top: The Runwell features hand-assembled quartz Argonite movements. Inset: Shinola’s bicycle models include The Bixby and The Runwell. U.S.-based companies. To create a training by Ronda Ltd., a top Swiss-based company to make beautifully styled, watch firm. Shinola’s bicycle frames are made-in-America watches, bicycles and leather goods, Bedrock made at Waterford Precision Cycles in Wisconsin, then custom assembled acquired the rights to an iconic American brand name: Shinola, once a by specially trained experts in the Detroit plant. The quality leather for famous shoe polish (and the origin of the old expression about not watch straps and a collection of leather goods comes from Horween’s, a knowing “shit from Shinola”). Chicago-based factory known for its time-honored techniques and skilled The next bold decision was to base this new Shinola in Detroit, once craftspeople. These leather items are assembled by the Eric Scott the heart of American manufacturing. The city already had a surplus of company, a premier manufacturer of custom leather goods in Ste. highly skilled, underemployed workers, so Shinola opened a state-of-theGenevieve, Missouri. Shinola also has a line of linen-covered journals with art factory in an historic Detroit building, the former design headquarters acid-free paper produced by Edwards Brothers Malloy in Ann Arbor for General Motors and the current site of The College for Creative Michigan, known for its top-caliber production and paper. Studies, a leading institution for art and design education that was The items all bear Shinola’s ‘Built in Detroit’ tagline. If all goes well, looking for creative businesses as tenants. the brand plans to expand its product line to a whole range of lifestyle With a goal to create the highest-quality items with the most goods, all made right here in the USA.
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PROFILE
I
n addition to designing new pieces for his fearlessly creative fine jewelry collections, Stephen Webster has been busy rubbing elbows with British nobility and inspiring future generations of creative talent. We checked in with him to find out more about what he’s been up to over the past year. INSPIRED DESIGNS For his current collections of covetable jewelry, Webster took a cue from the brand’s archives, spanning the last 37 years. The newest pieces in the Fly by Night collection are inspired by nocturnal winged creatures found within deep, dark forests; motifs include nightingales, thorns and moth’s wings, emphasized by an elaborate use of blackened gold. The timeless, elegant Deco Haze collection has also been updated this year. “The Art Deco period is easy to revisit as a jeweler due to the simplicity and cleanness of the design,” Webster explains. Crystal Haze is a technique he developed over 20 years ago that involves setting a faceted quartz crystal over a layer of natural precious stone, resulting in a holographic-like ‘haze’ of color. “The hexagonal silhouette which runs throughout Deco Haze focuses on the Crystal Haze stone, which is really what this collection is all about,” says the designer. ON THE PATH TO KNIGHTHOOD Throughout his career, Webster’s accolades have included a three-time win of the British Luxury Jeweller of the Year award, an honorary degree from The Kent Institute of Art and Design, and the esteemed designation as a Liveryman of the City of London. But on February 21st, in a ceremony officiated by Prince Charles at Buckingham Palace, Webster received his highest honor yet: he was inducted as a Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire. “Receiving an MBE was a great honor for me, my family and all the people who work at Stephen Webster. We are all very proud to have been recognized by the Queen and U.K. government for services to training and skills in the jewelry industry,” Webster says. “I wasn’t nervous at all; the whole experience of having my wife and two daughters in the palace was just exciting.” While an MBE does not automatically designate knighthood — or the title ‘Sir’ — Webster is eligible to advance in rank and hopes to one day receive that distinction.
THE FUTURE
SIR STEPHEN
GIVING BACK Stephen Webster has long been an advocate of ethically and socially mined materials. He is an ambassador for Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold, and works closely with Forevermark diamonds. He also travels to mines in Tanzania and Peru to establish ties with the mining communities there and trace the origins of his materials. In his newest role as curator of the British Fashion Council’s Rock Vault, Webster lends his enthusiasm, guidance and support to Britain’s up-and-coming jewelry design talent. “When I started designing there were a few people (David Yurman, Theo Fennell and Alex Sepkus were very generous with their encouragement) who might have given me a little advice, but on the whole there wasn’t too much help on offer.” The goal is to foster budding businesses and promote new British fine jewelry brands internationally through fashion weeks, exhibitions and showcases. “I have always enjoyed seeing people become successful in an industry that at times can be challenging,” says Webster.
Acclaimed jewelry designer Stephen Webster has been a very busy Brit.
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THE MEMORIES
BY ELISE DIAMANTINI
Capturing theMoment A VINTAGE FEEL Super 8 Films creates vintage-looking videos using super 8 film and retro video cameras. “I like the look and feel of older formats,” explains owner Megan Hill. “The final aesthetic is similar to what people like about Instagram filters. You can choose the pretty, soft look, a retro look with color reversal, or traditional black and white.” The goal is not to create long, boring movies that show every detail of the day, but to capture the overall feeling and emotion. Hill tries to “catch the natural moments: nothing is posed, we don’t ask anyone to do anything over. And we’re not ‘wedding paparazzi.’ Our style is to use minimal equipment.” Super 8 is a silent format, so added music plays an important role. (As a former DJ, she has a large selection of options.) The final edit will range from eight to 20 minutes, and prices average around $5,000. SAME-DAY EDITS Imagine your wedding dinner is just coming to a close. The lights go down, a screen goes up and your wedding video begins to play. Same-day edits are becoming increasingly popular, says B R I D A L
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Zugelter. “They’re even better when you surprise your guests. I’ve seen couples surprise their parents; once a bride even surprised the groom. He was speechless!” Couples are encouraged to be introduced, cut the cake and have their first dance before the last edit, in order to include it all in the final version. Zugelter and his team record sound, so vows and speeches can be included in the film if you wish. Studio Z’s same-day edits are about four to five minutes long; prices average around $5,500. POPPING THE QUESTION Proposal films are another recent trend. Justin says they’re lots of fun because they tend to be very creative. “They take a lot of planning and attention to detail, and it’s a collaborative effort between me and the person proposing. The videos are usually more public, but they can also be private and intimate. For example, Luck was a video I filmed about a guy who felt unlucky until he met his wife. The film opens with him talking about his unlucky life, and then cuts to when he met his now-wife. He had filmed a lot of the special moments throughout their relationship, so we use some of his footage and end with him proposing and her reaction; it’s very emotional.” Proposal films can range from two to 10 minutes depending on how elaborate the plan. SAVE THE DATE Save the date videos are an innovative way to get the word out to your loved ones. Couples typically send a postcard or a magnet, but now they’re including a URL directing guests to a website to watch a short film. Justin remembers one couple planning to get married on October 19th: they filmed in NYC on 10th and 19th Streets; they took a cab ride and stopped the meter at $10.19. It’s a cute way to get guests excited, and it will be just as much fun to watch as it was to make. S E C T I O N
IMAGE COURTESY STUDIO Z FILMS
Those tacky, lengthy wedding videos that you may (or may not) have watched before are long gone! Taking their place are artsy, beautifully edited short films that capture the essence of your wedding. “My goal is for people who may not know the bride and groom to walk away feeling like they do,” says Steve Zugelter of Studio Z Films. “When future generations of the family watch the film, they can see how she walked, how she smiled, who she was…” To tell your unique story, “We discuss story points in a preliminary meeting,” explains Michael Justin of Michael Justin Films. “We want to know about the most meaningful people and moments so we’re sure to highlight them.” Here, we explore several of the new cinematic styles.
THE RING
BY LORRAINE D E PASQUE
SomethingBold SomethingYou! TODAY’S BRIDAL JEWELRY OFFERS DAZZLING DETAILS TO EMPHASIZE PERSONAL TASTE.
“Don’t settle for a relationship that won’t let you be yourself” is one of Oprah Winfrey’s most famous and repeated quotes about the bond between two people in love. In the same way, no bride-to-be should settle for wedding rings that won’t let her be herself. How fortunate then that there are so many choices today. White,Yellow, Rose... or Maybe Two-toned? Be open to the possibilities, because the new rule is that there are no rules! White gold or platinum, yellow gold or rose gold — it’s up to you. In an Accent exclusive interview with Colin Cowie, renowned wedding and event planner/design consultant/television personality/author of 11 books and a spokesman for Platinum Guild International, Cowie reminds brides that “just like looking at pictures of your wedding day hairstyle, you never want to look at your wedding rings in 20 years and ask, ‘What was I thinking?’” So whatever your personal style, be sure to choose something that you love now and can see yourself loving for years to come.
Diamond Cuts with Cachet The important thing to remember about diamond cuts is the better the cut, the more brilliant the stone. A strong trend has been rings that evoke past eras, so by extension, the diamonds used in those rings — especially cushion cuts, rose cuts and emerald cuts — are vintage in feel. Cushions, particularly, have had incredible renewed popularity. Another beautiful choice is a ring designed with a halo of small stones around the cushion-cut center stone, giving the center diamond an even bigger look.
Whatever setting and stone you decide on, remember that white diamonds aren’t the only option. You may want to look at blue sapphire (thanks to Kate Middleton’s engagement ring, more brides than ever are selecting this option as a center stone). Even more popular are natural color diamonds: yellow, pink, blue, green... the full spectrum. And did you know that natural color diamonds are actually rarer than white diamonds? So while a diamond engagement ring is, obviously, special unto itself, choosing fancy color diamonds can actually make your ring even more unique. While there are certainly many choices today, if you think a custom design might be more what you’re looking for, discuss the options with your jeweler. Bring in a magazine, tear sheets of ads you’ve seen — the more examples you can show, the better. As Colin Cowie says, “These are your bridal rings, so buy whatever you want. The important thing is this: There’s no such thing as a wedding without a ring!”
B R I D A L
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S E C T I O N
IMAGES COURTESY CHRISTOPHER DESIGNS, PRECISION SET, CHRISTOPHER DESIGNS
Engaging Colors Beyond White Diamonds
THE DRESS
FALL 2013 STYLES Clockwise: Papillon, Madeline and Creme Brulee designed by Monique Lhuillier
SPRING 2014 STYLES Clockwise: Paris, Intrigue and Jolie designed by Monique Lhuillier
GownEnvy
DROP-DEAD-GORGEOUS DRESSES FOR THE DISCERNING BRIDE. Disappointed by the lack of options during her own search for a wedding gown, Monique Lhuillier decided to take matters into her own hands. Driven by a lifelong love of fashion and a natural inclination towards bridal and evening dresses, she set out to present a collection of modern and fashion-forward wedding gowns. Lhuillier and husband Tom Bugbee established the brand in 1996, and she showed her first collection that same year to acclaim from buyers, press and consumers.Today, Monique Lhuillier is recognized as one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost bridal and evening gown designers. Based on the success of her couture gowns, Lhuillier has expanded her offerings to a complete readyto-wear collection, bridesmaids dresses and gowns for special events. A red carpet favorite, stars from Jessica Chastain to BeyoncĂŠ regularly show off Monique Lhuillier designs at awards shows and events. Reese Witherspoon, Carrie Underwood and Vanessa Lachey all recently wed in gowns by the designer. Despite the limiting parameters of wedding gown design (of which color is the most obvious), Lhuillier manages to present fresh and inspired designs season after season. This year, look for lots of tulle and texture, overlays and lace. Necklines are tasteful, and sleeves are surprisingly sheer and sexy. Threedimensional embellishments, including delicate butterflies and flowers, add just the right finishing touch. Monique Lhuillier has become synonymous with refined design, meticulous construction and unparalleled glamour. What more could you ask for in your once-in-a-lifetime dress? B R I D A L
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S E C T I O N
WEDDING TRENDS
INTERVIEW BY TAYLOR SMITH
Perfectly Planned
KELLI BERG TALKS ABOUT HOW TO MAKE YOUR SPECIAL DAY SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL.
K
elli Berg is the founder of Simply Beautiful Events. Designing dozens of weddings each year, Kelli is known for her ability to adapt to any setting and develop a custom event. With passion, creativity and sophistication, Simply Beautiful Events has a marvelous cachet attached to its name. Removing the pressure from planning a custom wedding by hiring Berg and her team could be exactly what a busy bride needs. TS: What is your personal design style? KB: Timeless and romantic with soft hues. TS: How did you begin in the event/wedding planning business? KB: Went to school for it before it was popular. TS: What are your favorite wedding locations in Rochester? KB: Country clubs and private estates. TS: What is the appropriate amount of time you think it takes to plan a wedding? KB: It ranges from 250 to 300 hours and can go above and beyond that if it’s an outdoor event. Also, on the wedding day, it’s typically an additional 16 hours straight for the on-site coordinator and assistant. TS: Do you suggest having a theme for your wedding? KB: I like using color as the theme, or adjectives: romantic, elegant, chic, etc. TS: What has been one of your favorite themes? KB: As the seasons come and go, I find myself saying, “I love this color palette” for spring, and then as fall comes, I am back in love with the autumnal hues. B R I D A L
TS: What are your favorite trends for this year’s wedding season? KB: I am really loving the unique gowns coming from the amazing designers. TS: What are the advantages to using a wedding planner? KB: I’ve heard from couples and parents that just the stress release from knowing the day will be taken care of is worth it, but most of all, it’s the process: we are here to make sure you enjoy everything, from the minute you hire us through the months of planning, to have a guide to ensure you’re going down the right path. Also, having a person that sees the full picture— not just the invitations or floral or photos—making sure everything is cohesive. TS: Do you like the shift from traditional wedding cake to dessert bar? KB: There’s nothing like a gorgeous wedding cake. Variety is nice, but maybe for later in the evening. TS: What is a way to personalize your wedding? KB: Details: not too many, but ones that show your personality. TS: If you could go back and change one thing about your own wedding, what would you do differently? KB: My gown. I had it custom made from the start. I loved it but never had the experience of trying on different styles (but that was 11 years ago). TS: What is the one thing most brides forget about when planning their wedding? KB: Gracious brides are the happiest, so don’t sweat the small stuff, and just take it all in.
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THE ADVICE
Rethink your setting, refresh your ring! metals. Add diamond eternity bands (prong set or channel set), or try more colorful gemstones for a change. Mix modern with vintage. Whatever combination you choose, creating an outline on either side of your original rings will often enhance their importance.
Re-setting your diamond will give your rings a brand new look while holding on to the sentiment of your original commitment. One caveat: If it’s an old family heirloom, we will need to have our jewelers carefully inspect your gemstone to be sure there are no imperfections or flaws that could affect remounting. Assuming it’s fine, you have several options: adding baguette side stones, creating a halo of smaller diamonds around the center stone (a popular option these days), or working with our experts to custom design a unique and original setting. If you don’t want to re-set your stone, a current trend is to stack on additional bands for a layered effect. Add as many as you like: the only limitation is the length of your finger! Mix
Platinum is known for being the strongest metal; is that my best choice for bridal jewelry? Platinum is definitely a great choice because of its strength; white gold has also been popular for the past few decades. But yellow gold is making a big fashion comeback and there’s no reason it can’t also be used for bridal jewelry. In fact, stylish celebrities from Jennifer Aniston to Miley Cyrus have recently chosen yellow gold for their rocks! The perception that yellow gold is soft is true only in its purest form: 24 karat. The most popular form is 14 karat, a blend of pure gold with an alloy
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that actually makes it extremely durable and a great choice for bridal jewelry.
Nothing gets my diamond rings clean like a visit to the store for a professional polish. But how can I get the same sparkle between cleanings? Google “how to clean a diamond” and you’ll read about home steam cleaners, ultrasonic cleaners, toothpaste, baking soda solutions, denture-cleaning tablets, ammonia and warm soapy water. Bottom line: it’s always best to visit us for a complimentary inspection and cleaning whenever you think it’s needed. We also carry some excellent cleansers and ultrasonics that can be safely used at home between professional cleanings if you so desire. Your diamond is precious: why mess around with home remedies?
IMAGE COURTESY PRECISION SET
I love my wedding and engagement rings, but I’m ready for a change. Any suggestions for an easy update?
Luxury & value. Two become one.
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Designs for every room.
Come visit our new showroom, or call today to schedule your complimentary in-home design consultation.
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BOOKS
THE ART OF
FASHION
Coffee table ‘candy’ as tasty to look at as it is to read. JEFFREY FELNER
A
t a time when it seems our entire world has been digitized, many of us still find it a great comfort to indulge in the luxury of a ‘real’ book. The subjects of these five unique titles range from legendary style icons to some of the greatest designers of the 20th century. For the fashionably curious friends in your life, give the holiday gift that will last a lifetime: the gift of great style. treasure trove of shoe design, reminding us that in the 1950s, among Bally, Delman, Beth Levine, David Evins and the Julianellis, Vivier was the master of them all. His forward-looking designs were the precursors to modern footwear, works of wearable art that graced the shelves of fine shoe salons the world over. He was the innovator, the inventor, the prodigy who inspired an industry.
Audrey in Rome by Luca Dotti is a love letter from an adoring son to his wonderful mother. The book remembers Hepburn in the most endearing, iconic and, at times, melancholy way, though it never descends to the maudlin or schmaltzy. We are treated to candid photographs that celebrate a woman with unrivaled star power and charisma.
Roger Vivier by Virginie Mouzat and Colombe Pringle is a
C. Z. Guest: American Style Icon by Susanna Salk reminds us it’s not about what you wear, but how you wear it. Style, while it can be refined and cultivated over time, must come from an innate inner quality that cannot be bought or passed down genetically. Guest has been compared to a real live Tracy Lord — the part played by
Grace Kelly in High Society — but with more humor, less entitlement, less gravitas and much more pizzazz.
Empress of Fashion: A Life of Diana Vreeland by Amanda Mackenzie Stuart takes the reader on a journey from Vreeland’s childhood through to her death, sharing information that was never before assembled within one volume. This is a full photographic rendition of Vreeland’s life that includes her parents, sister, adoring husband, children and grandchildren. It is a rare and welcome view of her private life, which is so often overlooked in favor of the glossy (and more obvious) aspects of her life as a public figure.
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The Master of Us All: Balenciaga, His Workrooms, His World by Mary Blume is as much a series of short stories as it is a biography of this rarely written-about designer. Blume compiles years of interviews with the few intimates who survive one of the greatest international fashion designers that ever lived. Chiefly, she spoke to colleagues Hubert de Givenchy, mentored by Balenciaga and also a friend for many years, and Florette, a vendeuse at Balenciaga’s salon for many decades and the primary source of most of the neverbefore-heard stories. Jeffrey Felner is a fashion writer and critic. Find more of his book reviews at nyjournalofbooks.com.
Vince Rag&Bone Bailey44 Clover Canyon Current Elliott DVF Equipment French Connection Haute Hippie JBrand La Made Mother Parker Rebecca Taylor Taj Torn by Ronny Kobo (and many more)
Before you buy... (shopping advice from Dalida, owner of dado boutique) When in doubt, walk away and see if it haunts you. You love it? Make sure it loves you back! Don’t overthink it.
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Photo byTammy Swales Photography
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2900 Monroe Ave • Rochester, NY 14618 • 585 271 7890
© D.YURMAN 2013
MANN’S JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
FALL/WINTER 2013