1. GENERAL INFORMATION 2. CULTURE & SOCIAL LIFE 3. HISTORY 4. MODERNISME 5. MARKETS 6. CITY QUARTERS 7. MAPS 8. ART 9. ARCHITECTURE 10. ARCHITECTS
1. GENERAL INFORMATION
Catalan Phrases
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Emergency Contacts
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Catalan Traditions & Holidays
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Public Transport
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Catalan Politics
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Facts & Figures
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Catalan Phrases Aibhlin Clabby Hola Hello gràcies Thank you Si us plau Please Som d’irlanda We are from Ireland Parla angles? Do you speak English? Quant val..? How much is..? On és...? Where is? Com ho faig per arribar a_ ? How do I get to? Estic perdut/ perduda I’m lost No entenc I don’t understand El meu aerolliscador està ple d’anguiles My hovercraft is full of eels Som estudiants d’arquitectura We are architecture students Una pinta de cervesa, si us plau a pint please 4
Ho sento I’m sorry Mercats Markets Sóc vegetarià I’m a vegetarian Finestres Windows M’encanta l’arquitectura de Gaudí I love Gaudi’s architecture Església Church Pavelló de Barcelona Barcelona pavilion arquitectura gòtica Gothic architecture Cervesa Beer On són els millors bars/clubs? Where are the best bars/ clubs? Modernisme Modernism Aquest edifici va ser dissenyat per This building was designed by Pot repetir això si us plau? Can you repeat that please? No parlo espanyol I don’t speak Spanish 5
Emergency Contacts Matthew Fitzsimons
All General Emergencies 112 Fire Brigade 080 Accident/Ambulance 061
Police 091 Local Police 092 English Speaking Police Officers +34 932 903 000 (police headquarters) Via Laietana 43
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The Irish Consulate Mr. Enrique Cucurella Honorary Consul General of Ireland +34 93 491 5021
Consulate Opening Hours 10am-1pm (Mon - Fri) For emergency assistance outside of these hours +34 914364093
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Catalonian Traditions & Holidays Nicholas Tannam
Barcelona and Catalonia as a whole have a very unique and vibrant tradition’s. The most important one is “La Mercé”, which dates back to 1687. It celebrates “La Mare de Deú de la Mercé” (Our Lady of Mercy) with a variety of customs such as: Sardana A dance usually performed on Saturday Evening during La Mercé in which people gather outside churches and cathedrals in unison while a brass band plays. As the songs go on, more and more people join hands and step to the music, representing Catalan unity after the end of Franco’s reign of terror in 1975. Correfoc (September 24th) The fire run; Groups of marchers in demonic costumes known as “Colles
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de Diablos” dance through the streets along with giant beasts, as music sounds and fireworks light up the sky. It represents the battle between good and evil, and stems from the tradtional dance of “Ball de Diables” Els Castells: Human Castles Beginning in 1712, teams compete in a race to build the tallest human towers, with amazing results. For a tower to be officially complete, a child must climb to the top and stand with 4 fingers held up in the air, representing the 4 stripes of the Catalan flag. The “pinya” is the crowd of people gathered at the bottom acting as both structural and motivational support. The towers represent balance, courage and the harmony between the Catalan people.
Apart from La Mercé, The Catalan people also celebrate:
The Catalonians also have some more unusual traditions:
Sant-Jordi (April 23rd) Catalan men give a rose to the women and get a book in return. Also known as Dia del Libré (book day), coinciding with the deaths of Shakespeare, Cervantes and Pia.
L’ou com Balla (60 days after Easter) Known as “The Dancing Egg”. Church fountains throughout Barcelona are covered in flowers as an egg is placed on top of the jet stream as it “dances”. It supposedly represents the holy communion but no-one knows how it started.
Midsummer (June 23rd) This celebration of St. John the Baptist is held on the beaches with fireworks and bonfires. National Day of Catalonia (September 11th) A day for remembrance of the defeat and surrender of Barcelona to the French Castillian army of Philip V of Spain during the war of the Spanish Succession. Castanyada (November 1st) Families gather for a meal of chestnuts, sweet potatoes, marzipan based “panalettes” and fruit to honor the dead.
Tió de Nadal (December 8th) More commonly known as “Caga Tió/The Poo Log). A log is set up with a face, legs and a red hat, fed and covered with a blanket every night until Christmas, where kids beat the log with a stick while singing the Caga Tió song. In the end, they eat whatever has been left under the log throughout the holiday. L’Home dels Nassos (NYE) An urban legend surrounding a man with 365 noses who roams the streets of Barcelona, losing a nose for every day that passes through the year. On New Years Eve, the Barcelonian children search the streets to find this one-nosed man.
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Public Transport Alyssa Valencia
Travel Cards The “Hola BCN” card offers you unlimited journeys using the metro (subway), city buses (TMB), tram, regional railway (Rodalies de Catalunya, Zone 1), urban railway (FGC, zone 1) and the funicular railway (Funicular de Montjuïc). Unlimited rides with just one single ticket for 2,3,4 or 5 consecutive days. It’s issued directly by TMB, the operator of the city buses and the metro Barcelona. “Hola BCN” card includes metro service travel between city center and the airport.
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Tips for Using the Metro in Barcelona To enter and leave the station, you have to pass automated fare gates. Touch your ticket on the validation devices at the start and again at the end of your journey to ensure the validity of your pass or the correct fare is paid. Make sure you use the correct validation device (right side) of the turnstile. Don’t forget to pull the card out again.
App MOOVIT App Allows the traveller to locate their destinations through a series of public transport routes and is highly recommended to ensure safety and direction.
Times Operating times for the Metro and Barcelona Tram: Monday to Friday, Sunday and public holidays 5.00 am – midnight
Map A map of the surrounding streets of Twentu-tu Hostel is attatched.
Friday, Saturday and the evening before public holidays 5:00 – 2:00 11
Catalan Politics Robbie Whitehead
This yellow and red striped flag is the official flag of Catalonia. it is often referred to as La Sonyera which means “flag” although usually only this particular flag is called this. It would be seen outside official government buildings or inside most tourist shops and restaurants. The Catalonians are currently in dispute with the government of Spain because Spain views itself as an autonomous community in the Kingdom of Spain but Catalonia views it as an independent state.
Taxes are controlled by Madrid. Nationalists were complaining about sending over too much money to the poorer parts of Spain. They also complained that Spain’s changes to an independent status in 2010 undermined Catalan identity. These are the results of the Catalan Referendum 1 October 2017
75 percent of Spain voted for independence. ‘Together for Yes (Catalonia)’ was the most popular part with 39.54 percent of votes. Going clockwise from the top, the slices represent: - The vote for independence - The vote against independence - Blank ballots - Non voters 12
Catalan News 4th March 2019 Catalan parties call for President Torra to face a confidence motion Catalunya en Comú and Socialists call on president to vote or call early election after failure to pass budget.
President
Quim Torra should submit to a confidence motion in the parliament, because his government is “on death’s door,” according to the Catalunya en Comú party.
President Quim Torra
Party spokesman, Joan Mena, said on Monday that “without a budget and without support” Torra’s government is “weak” and “incapable of governing and adrift” and “the last thing Catalonia needs right now.” The idea that Torra should do a motion of no confidence after the government’s failure to pass its budget was shared by the Catalan Socialist party.
Party spokesman Joan Mena
Party secretary, Salvador Illa, called on Torra to “clear the way for Catalonia,” by either submitting to a no confidence vote or by calling an early election. “If he has no budget he has to take one of these two options,” Illa said.
Party Secretary Salvador Illa 13
Facts & Figures Kristoffer San Diego
Population Barcelona has population of approximately 5 million. 1.7 million is only within the admistrative limit of the city. The urban area has a much larger population of about 4.6 million. The city has population density of approximately 15,748 inhabitants per km². One of the most densely populated area is Eixample, with 36,000 people per square kilometer, as well as the neighbourhood of La Sagrada Familia with over 50,000 people per square kilometer. Tourist Approximately 8.9 Barcelona a year.
tourists
visits
Arrivals 76% of visitors arrive by plan, by train 11%, 6.2% by car and 3.7% by bus. Restaurants 45.4% of visits were to traditional restaurants, 8% to restaurants with an international cuisine, and 15.8% to bars and cafes (2015). Ranking of the world’s best restaurants: 5th place (source: 2009 Anholt-Gfk Roper City Brands Index).
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The Sagrada Famila has taken longer to build than The Great Pyramids The Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt only took 20 years to build with ancient tools, and so far, la Sagrada Familia has taken around 200 hundred years to be constructed with modern technology. It is expected to be complete by 2026. Barcelona is the only city that received a Royal Gold Medal Barcelona is the only city in the world awarded a Royal Gold Medal for architecture by the Royal Institute of British Architects. No beaches until the 1992 Olympics Several artificial beaches were created which were listed as number 1 of the top 10 beach cities in the world according to the National Geographic Channel. Home to the largest football stadium in Europe Has a surface area of 55,000 square meters, Camp Nou, FC Barcelona club’s home stadium, has a capacity of 99,354 people and is not only the largest football stadium in Europe, but also the 2nd biggest in the world.
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2. CULTURE & SOCIAL LIFE Film
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Literature
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Music
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Food
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Hostel
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Barcelona In Film David Bell
Barcelona is the perfect location to shoot a film thanks to its architectural treasures and stunning views. Here are some of the more famous movies that have been shot in this iconic city.
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All About My Mother (1999) Pedro Almodovar This famous Spanish film was a huge commercial and critical success, winning one Golden Globe, one Academy Award and two BAFTAS. It also won an outstanding six GOYA awards (The Spanish National film and TV awards). The film tells the story of a single mother whose son dies in a car crash, and the difficulties she faces as a result.
Vicky Christina Barcelona (2008) Woody Allen This film was also a huge success having won an Oscar, a Golden Globe (nominated for 4) and a BAFTA. This Film tells the story of two women on holidays to Barcelona, and the city’s beautiful scenery serves as the perfect backdrop for their dramatic love affair with a married man. Woody Allen treats us to jaw dropping shots of famous buildings such as La Sagrada Familia and Casa Mila, all of which are bound to make us fall in love with Barcelona.
Biutiful (2010) Alejandro Gonzalez This unusual spelling of the word is a reference to the phonological spelling of the English word ‘beautiful’ in Spanish, a very fitting title as the film represents the beauty of life through various difficulties. Javier Bardem plays the role of a troubled father entangled in a life of crime to save his children. Unlike the other examples mentioned, this movie gives an insight into the darker side of Barcelona, showing a city of fear and poverty.
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Literature Aoibhe Burke
Litearature in Barcelona Barcelona is the literary hub of not one but two languages. It is the world’s largest centre of publishing in the Spanish language, and the capital of the Catalan language. As Barcelona is the city of books, reading and writing are two of its more popular past times. There is an annual Literary Festival on the 23rd of April.
The Shadow of the Wind, Caros Ruiz Zafon
Books The Time of the Doves, Mercè Rodoreda
“Andando el tiempo se verán las caras” “Baladas del dulce Jim” Ana María Moix
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The Angst-Riddeb Executive, Manuel Vazquez Montalban Poetry “Two Christian Martyrs of Ausona Canto”, from the “Montserrat cycle” Jacint Verdaguer
“Penelope” “Calipso” Mercè Rodoreda Above Ana María Moix. Below Mercè Rodoreda Barcelona Robert William Service The night before I left Milan A mob jammed the Cathedral Square, And high the tide of passion ran As politics befouled the air. A seething hell of human strife, I shrank back from its evil core, Seeing in this convulsive life The living seeds of war. To Barcelona then I came, And oh the heavenly release! From conflict and consuming flame I knew the preciousness of peace. Such veneration for the law How decorous was every one! And then (significant) I sawEach copper packed a tommy gun.Well, maybe it is best that way.Peace can mean more than liberty: These people, state-directed, may Be happier than those more free. When politics wield evil grip, And warring factions rise and fall, Benevolent dictatorship May be the answer, after all.
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Music
Shane Doherty
The music of Spain has a long history. It has played an important role in the development of western music, and has greatly influenced Latin American music. Spanish music is often associated with traditional styles such as Flamenco (dance which resembles the salsa) and classical guitar. While these forms of music are common, there are many different traditional musical and dance styles across the regions. 22
Nowadays commercial pop music dominates, though Catalonia is best known for sardana music played by a cobla, there are other traditional styles of dance music like ball de bastons. (stick-dances), gallops, ball de gitanes. Music is at the forefront in cercaviles (carnivals) and celebrations. Flabiol (a five-hole tabor pipe), gralla or dolcaina (a shawm) and sac de gemecs (a local bagpipe) are traditional folk music instuments that make part of some coblas.
Catalan Gispies created their own style of Rumba called ‘Rumba Catalana’ which is a popular style thats similar to Flamenco, but not technically part of the flamenco canon. With a recent hip problem and no partner, my attendance at my local flamenco and rumba dance classes have been low. As a result, I’ve decided to dedicate a small area of my research on what you’d expect to hear if we do decide to venture out just for one night. Most bars and clubs will have a mix of western pop (most popular in the charts) and their own Spanish pop music playing. Famous songs like Despacito, Bailando, Livin La vida Loca and the Macerena which will have Miriam and Sinead up on the tables dancing by 10pm. You can also get in the mood for the trip by listening to my new mixtape called Bartelona 19’ on spotify by searching Shane Doherty and following the playlist.
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Food
Willow Murray
Teddy’s Barcelona Similar to Umi Fallafel this lebanse Fast food joint is Tripadvisors second best restaurant in Barcelona. Priced between €3-€6 it is almost too affordable. It is also suitable for vegetarians and vegans. Bar Santa Fe If Boojum took steroids Santa Fe would be the result. €10 for a “Giant Plate” of steak, rice, beans, veg, plus 24
a drink and dessert this is the ideal place to continue a dirty bulk. It’s 2019 so even this steak house caters for vegetarians and vegans alike. Billy Brunch Appears to be the perfect place to overcome a hangover. Large portions of brunch classics, its a great place to let all your instagram followers know that you’re cultured. It’s affordable.
McDonalds This small independant chain does American style burgers and chips, or “fries” as they call them. It appears to be a poor immitation of Supermacs, but its still cheap. Item of interest on their menu is a “McFlurry”? looks like a sort of solid milkshake that’s eaten with a spoon?? La Mezcla This edgy pizza place looks quite lovely. It describes itself as a hole in the wall pizza joint. They exchange pizza for money! How spanish! Pizza by the slice is exactly what one needs when on the go. Furthermore they have vegetarian AND vegan options, what a world we live in! The Pan’s Club “Excellent quiche” which I believe is Spanish for very quick? Fast food sorted. Cheap and vegan! Narciso As the name suggests its the ideal place for a narcissist, a sandwich bar that is wonderfully aesthetic. The perfect place to pose with your food and inform your mates at home that you’re quirky and original. 10/10, would recommend.
Guelly Sandwichpark “Churrrooos Yeah!” - Eve Nolan. Thats right, Churros! This place does other stuff too, but churros are class so do you even care? It’s actually quite affordable and they do churros.
En Diagonal Bar A tapas bar that sells pints and tiny food. Located close to La Sagrada Famillia, it’s the perfect place to stop and rehydrate after the world famous construction site. For those ignorami in the group tapas is like free food samples that you pay for. 25
Hostel
Eve Nolan
The Twentytú Hi-Tech Hostel is a modern building which applies innovative and eco-friendly technologies. It offers a terrace with city views, air-conditioned rooms and free wifi. The hostel is easily accessible with important transport networks including bus and bike lanes and nearby underground stations like the Glorias, Marina and Bogatell only 150 m from the hostel. 26
Nearby must visits include: Sagarda Familia Sagrada Familia, is an architectural gem in Barcelona’s sprawling skyline, a reflection of the prodigal Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi’s distinct imagination and style. It’s well worth the 20 minute drive from our hostel. But I don’t know if youre into architecture?
Platja de la Nova icaria A sandy beach only 6 minutes away by car. The Zoo Barcelona zoo used to be internationally known as the home of Snowflake, the only known albino gorilla, who died in 2003. Attractions include a primate house, a terrarium, a “Land of Dragons” featuring Komodo dragons
and an “Aquarama” for dolphin shows. Only a 10 minute drive away. Night Clubz Razmataz salas (1 min) Boombastic (7min) Shopping Glories (8min) Vila Shopping Centre (5min) 27
3. HISTORY Roman Barcelona
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Medieval Barcelona
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Barcelona under Franco
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Catalan Barcelona
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20th Century Barcelona
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Roman Barcelona Matthew Bolger
The first human settlements in Barcelona date back to Neolithic times. The city itself was founded by the Romans who set up a colony called Barcino at the end of the 1st century BCE. The colony had some thousand inhabitants and was bounded by a defensive wall, the remains of which can still be seen in the old town. Barcelona was once a satellite city for Rome, and conventional wisdom has it that the Romans were in this part of Hispania as early as 218 BCE. The Roman Emperor, Augustus, who thrived on conquering foreign areas, “Romanized” it, and transformed it into a fruitful province for Rome. The temple of Augustus, or at least what’s 30
left of it, is a must see for Roman spotters, and it consists of a courtyard within the Centre Excursionista de Catalunya (Plaça Sant Jaume, near to Carrer del Paradís), containing four very impressive 9 metre tall columns, left over from a temple built in around 1 BCE. The Amphitheatre in Tarragona (formerly the Amphitheatre of Tarraco) is a Roman amphitheatre, built approximately in the 2nd century AD. At that time, Tarraco was the capital of the Roman province. The amphitheatre was located outside the city, near the forum. The construction of the amphitheater was chosen, it was located near the Via Augusta, close to
the entrance of the town and near the beach. It was used for two activities: battle of gladiators and fighting or hunting of animals. Later it also a place where the executed were sentenced to death. The amphitheatre can accommodate up to 15,000 spectators and has dimensions of 130 to 102 meters. The amphitheatre was reconstructed in the year 221 BCE during the reign Eliogabalo. Years later, on 21st January 259 AD, the Christian Bishop Fructuoso and his two deacons, Augurius and Eulogius, were burned alive in the arena of the amphitheatre. This fact has led to the construction of the iconic Basilica dedicated to these martyrs in the sixth century. After
Christianity
became
the
official religion of the Empire, the lost its original functions. In subsequent, years some of the stones of the Roman theatre was used for the construction of the Basilica in memory of the three martyrs. In 1780, the amphitheatre was used as a prison for prisoners who were building the Port of Tarragona. After the closing of the prison, the amphitheatre was abandoned until the mid-20th century, when work began on the restoration of the theatre. To date, some parts are well preserved of the amphitheatre, among which are: parts of the arena where fights were held, the seats and stage. Now the amphitheatre is included in the world heritage list of UNESCO and is one of the most visited attractions of the “old� city. 31
Medieval Barcelona Marley Cahill
During the fall of the Roman Empire the ‘German Barbarians (Teutonic tribes) swept across Europe through large passageways such as the Rhine and the Danube into the empire. They accepted Christianity and the merging of these barbarians and the religious spirit shaped Europe as we know it today. That time frame is known as the Medieval period or ‘The Middle Ages’. This time frame covers roughly 1000 years from circa AD 500 to AD 1500. It is difficult to pinpoint exactly when the middle ages began and ended. Some say the middle ages began in AD 476 when the barbarian Odoacer overthrew the emperor, Romulus Augustus while some say 410 when Alaric, king of the Visigoths, sacked Rome. By 568 the Visigoth empire reached its zenith during the reign of King Leovvigild. A year later King Reccared converts to the Roman Catholic faith and in doing so unifies the church and the crown. In 711 AD the Arab governor of Tangier invaded Spain starting in Gibraltar. He had approximately 10,000 troops made up of Berbers and some Visigoth allies from Ceuta. King Roderick was defeated, and the Muslim conquest of Spain began. Later in 756 AD Muslim Spain becomes an independent emirate called Al-Andalus.
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The Reials Drassanes. In 778 AD Charlemagne (King of Francs) invaded Spain but was beaten by Basque tribes. In 800 AD he was crowned imperator Augustus by the Pope. He and his army took Barcelona. Later in 929 AD Barcelona breaks from the central Muslim control under the guise of Abd al-Rahman III.
The Reials Drassanes were built in the 13th century under the rule of Peter III of Aragon. When the site was being excavated in 2012 it was discovered that another building was constructed on top of the shipyards in the 16th century. The shipyard was fully restored in 2013 and now stands as a museum (pictured on the left in 2014). The church Santa Maria del Mar dates to the XIV century. It is highly regarded due to its fine lines and attention to proportions. It was constructed shortly after the introduction of Christianity to the Roman colony on what is believed to be the burial site St EulĂ lia, a martyr in 202 AD.
Santa Maria del Mar. Barcelona eventually acquired supremacy over all the Catalan countries and from this time came a major change in architecture. Beautiful institutional buildings were built such as the church of Sant Jordi and the Royal Palaces. Gothic and Romanesque architecture became a key component to the city. The church ‘Santa Maria del Mar’ is considered the jewel of Catalan Gothic Art and Architecture. Reials Drassanes are also the largest Medieval shipyards in the world. These impressive structures symbolized a powerful church and affluence.
Barcelona underwent some severe changes in terms of architectural design and layout throughout the middle ages. These changes still stand today with some of the oldest and some of the most famous buildings in the world. The inffluence of various cultures and rulers give a wide variety to the styles and materials of these structures in Barcelona and depict a convoluted history of the city.
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Barcelona under Franco Luke Maguire
Francisco Franco was a military dictator in Spain from 1939 until 1973. This period in Spanish history is referred to as Francoist Spain. Over his reign of nearly four decades he was creatively given the name ‘El Caudillo’ (The Leader). After he established power through a brutal and bloody civil war, many military tribunals were held in which tens of thousands were executed or imprisoned. Franco outlawed all religions except Catholicism and banned Catalan and Basque languages while also establishing a network of secret police. Upon the outbreak of World War Two, Franco declared Spanish neutrality but remained sympathetic towards the Nazis and Hitler. When the axis powers took control of France in 1940, Franco met with Hitler to discuss becoming allies in return for North West Africa and economic aid from Germany. Hitler refused but Franco remained sympathetic as both men shared the condition of only having one testicle.
favour once more.
When the allies regained control of the war. Franco declared Spanish neutrality ...again. As he did not play a big role in the war, he was mainly left alone in the repercussions of the war. However he was ostracized by the United Nations. Franco remained in ostracism until the Cold War where his anticommunist views gained him
The Franco regime was anti-Catalan which suppressed the freedom of Catalonia. All political parties other than the Falange where prosecuted and banned. Leftist organisations and the free press were eliminated. Despite the oppression of Catalan culture there were some Catalan supporters of Franco’s regime
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trials, torture and imprisonment persisted as Franco attempted to destroy all resistance. However after this decade of oppression, Franco realized that total oppression was counter-productive and his regime loosened its grip slightly on Spain. On 12th December 1970 a group of Catalan intellectuals gathered together to debate over Franco’s regime. They formed a permanent assembly, and called themselves ‘The Permanent Assembly of Catalan Intellectuals’, proving their intellectual qualities. The assembly created a manifesto, which was met with extreme sanctions from the Franco regime. In 1971 the assembly of Catalonia was founded as opposition to Franco. Their motto was ‘Freedom, Amnesty and Statue of Autonomy’. During the seventies the Assemblies was the main form of resistance against Franco. In 1973 Franco retired and named Prince Juan Carlos as his successor. Franco died on 20th November 1975 and was buried in a monumental tomb (Bottom right image). including some notable figures such as Salvador Dali who was exiled from the surrealist circle and was widely criticized for his fascist views. Between 1953 and 1963 Franco continued his oppression of Catalonia. The executions, unfair
A few years later Juan dissolved Franco’s Regime and Spain became a democratic monarchy. Barcelona and the rest of Catalonia remains part of Spain to this day although there has been many protests for the independence of Catalonia.
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Indepedence of Catalonia Naoise Ó Nualláin
Catalonia Catalonia is a region in north-east Spain that has one of the greatest levels of self-government in Spain. The region has its own parliament, government, president, police force and public broadcaster. The wealthy region has about 7.5 million people, with their own language, flag and anthem. Catalonia also controls some of its own public services. Catalans have a range of powers in many policy areas from culture and environment to communications, transportation, commerce and public safety. Controversy Catalan nationalists have long complained that their region sends too much money on poorer parts of Spain, as taxes are controlled by Madrid. They also say Spain’s changes to their autonomous status in 2010 undermined Catalan identity. In a referendum on October 1st, declared illegal by Spain’s Constitutional Court, about 90% of Catalan voters backed independence but turnout was only 43%. There were clashes when Spanish national police tried to prevent people voting. The ruling separatists in the Catalan parliament then declared independence on 27 October. Angered by that, Madrid imposed direct rule by invoking Article 155 of the constitution 36
- a first for Spain. The Spanish government sacked the Catalan leaders, dissolved parliament and called a snap regional election on December 21st 2017, which nationalist parties won. Carles Puigdemont, the former Catalan president, fled but is wanted in Spain, as he is accused of rebellion, as are the four other who fled with him. Two of his ex-ministers are in prison in Spain.
More than 1,600 companies, including the banks Caixa and Sabadell and several utility companies, have decided to move their legal headquarters out of Catalonia since the referendum. Catalonia accounts for about a fifth of Spain’s economic output but also has debt of ₏52bn to the Spanish government.
In June 2018, Catalan nationalists regained control of the region from Madrid’s direct rule after a new government was sworn in. Quim Torra, a close ally of Mr Puigdemont, will lead the regional government. 37
20th Century Barcelona Kevin Ryan
Modernisme During the early 20th century, a new modernist movement was sweeping europe. In Barcelona it was referred to as ‘modernisme’. It was inspired largely by the works of Gaudi. In particular the massive ongoing project of the Sagrada familia. (above) This led to the international exhibition in 1929 being hosted in Barcelona. This exhibition inspired several major building projects in the city, 38
in particularw the Palau Nacional in Montjuic. At this point the city was already full of a diverse range of architecture, which would become one of the city’s greatest identity traits. Civil War and Franco Era During the time of the second world war, Spain was pre-occupied with its own war. The outcome of which led to years of dictatorship, but also eventually led to a demographic boom in the 60’s.
The dictator in question at the time was Francisco Franco, whom you have read about earlier in this chapter. Post Franco Era Succeeding franco’s reign was King Juan Carlos I. He quickly brought in democratic reforms and focused on restructuring the city’s political divisions and began large projects on urban development. The particular attention of this progressive urban regime was towards open space and public parks.
The impending Summer Olympics in 1992, led to a new push towards even more large scale public improvement projects . Continuing on to today, the city has accomplished great things in the fields of public space, greenspace creation & preservation, public social initiatives, public works, and good urban planning.
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4. MODERNISME Barcelona Modernisme
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Casa Amatller
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Casa Vincens
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Casarmona Factory
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Castell Des Tres Dragors
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Palau de la Musica Catalana
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Barcelona Modernisme Sarah Adekoya
Modernism was a movement in the twentieth century that got rid of the norm or traditional style in art and architecture and focused on peoples experiences instead. Barcelona Modernism is a cultural movement with ties to a general modern trend. It was mostly expressed through art – painting, sculptures, and decorative arts which contributed to 42
the architecture. This movement was mainly an architectural movement mostly centred in Barcelona. The overall effect is a style of architecture which is very dynamic, very human, very colourful and often absurdly over-the-top when it comes to details. The moderism movement made the architecture exciting so snap away my fellow classmates!
Best known architect in this movement was, as you all know, the famous, the magnificent (drum roll please) ANTONI GAUDI!!!! But Gaudi cannot take all the spotlight, there were other architects involved in the modernism movement including (can you guess? I think not) Josep Puig i Cadafalch and LluĂs Domènech i Montaner. The main aim of the modernism movement was to create modern art based to the normal traditions while also introducing new materials. The Flor De Barcelona Panot is the most common symbols in barcelona for the modernism movement. The flowers with four petals symbol was won by Casa Escofet, which was in charge for paving the streets of Barcelona with the design of the panot, becoming one of the most emblematic symbols of the city. This famous flower is one of many designs including the skull concentric circles, four tablets with four circles and, lastly, the tile with four tablets; the most commonly seen tile in Barcelona.
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Casa Amatller Caroline Costello
Background Casa Amatller was designed by the Catalan Spanish architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch. It is located it is located in the district of Eixample in Passeig de Gracia in Barcelona. It is part of the boulevard called the Illa or Manzana de la Discòrdia, the ‘Block of Discord’; a row of prominent modernista houses, each of the houses is in a very different style, next to each other. They were designed by the four most prominent architects of the Modernista period: Antoni Gaudí’s Casa Batlló, Lluís Doménech i Montaner’s Casa LleóMorera and Casa Mulleras by Enric Sagnier. Modernism These four buildings that make up the Illa de la Discòrdia are some of the buildings which are considered the most important architectural landmarks of Barcelona They were all essentially remodelling jobs with alterations to existing buildings. These buildings which represent Modernism were built at very short intervals of each other, emphasizing the mportance of this movement. Modernisme was a wide-scale movement across all of the arts, not just architecture. It coincided with the Catalan Renaissance taking place during the same period.
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Puig i Cadafalch The original house (previously designed by Antoni Robert in 1875) was bought by the chocolatier and philanthropist Antoni Amatller Costa (1851-1910) in 1898. Puig i Cadafalch designed the facade, a foyer, and the owner’s residence in the “new” Modernista style. He completed the renovation in 1900, having worked with other talented craftsmen and sculptors of the city to create all the details of the building. The sculptor Eusebi Arnau created the St. George with the dragon which decorates the doors on the left side of the asymmetrical facade. (St. George or Sant Jordi is the patron saint of Catalonia.)
Today Antoni Amatller’s daughter, Teresa, had no children so she decided to sell the house to the Coll Family chocolatiers. They kept the house since 1840 and continue to manage the Amatller brand and maintain Antoni Amatller’s modernist design. Casa Amatller is a historicartistic monument since 1976 and only the ground floor is open to the public. It has been converted into a museum known as the Institut Amatller d’Art Hispanic (the Amatller Institute of Hispanic Art), a foundation set up by Teresa to ensure the maintenance and future of the house after her death.
Although he designed it during his modernista period, he incorporated older styles such as Germanic and neo-Gothic details. The façade is flat, but it contains many hidden details like decorative motifs of almond tree flowers (‘Amatller’ is the Catalan word for ‘almond tree’). Gothic window frames have stepped gables borrowed from Dutch urban architecture and gargoyles at the top of the building form an ‘A’ for ‘Amatller’. The layout follows the design of an urban-Gothic palace with the central patio and the staircase providing access to the rooms of the building.
In 2009, the foundation was responsible for the reformation of the ground floor and was opened to visitors in 2015. The style of the time is visible in the strong lines that make up the interior of the building. Inside you’ll find the old living quarters of the chocolatier on the first floor and see how an interior of the time would have been decorated. There are period pieces, original furniture and décor which make you feel like you’ve stepped into 19th century living. You will also find the original caretaker’s office with one of the most renowned stained-glass windows of the modernista period. Today you can now enjoy a hot chocolate and buy some cocoa products before you leave this iconic time capsule .
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Casa Vincens by Antoni Gaudí Alexandra Leahy
Casa Vincens A 130-year-old house designed by Antoni Gaudí is now open to the public after a major restoration. The house was commissioned by Manuel Vicens in Montaner in 1877. Gaudí was 31 years old and still studying. This was his first residential job. Some say this house marked the beginning of Modernisme. The style chosen for Casa Vicens was Neo-Mudéjar, a type of Spanish Moorish Revival architecture. Gaudí wanted to bring nature into the house. In the early buildings like this, the connection with nature was achieved through ornamentation. Casa Vicens is full of symbols, 46
colours and patterns that evoke the Mediterranean flora and fauna. Gaudi used (stone, brick, tile and iron). The walls are covered in stone on the lower levels. He then went crazy with the red brick on the upper levels. The complex brickwork creates pattern, volume and drama. The tile work represents ivy (green and white tiles) and dandelions (yellow patterned tiles). It’s designed to look like lush vegetation growing on the walls. The windows and balconies are adorned with elaborate patterns. But perhaps the most striking feature is the gate and grille with a pattern of three-dimensional palm leaves. He used the iron casting technique from
a clay model made from a real fan palm leaf. “I adopted them as a decorative theme for the ceramics. I also found a luxuriant fan palm, whose leaves, in cast iron, fill the grilles and entrance gate to the house.” The original project was a semidetached house. In 1925, architect Juan Sierra de Martínez designed an extension to double the size of the building. The new owners thought the country house was too small. Gaudí was too busy with the Sagrada Familia so he recommended Sierra de Martínez — one of his disciples. In the photo above you can see the split between the original house (left) and the extension (right). To be honest, the work was remarkably
respectful of the original design and even received an architecture award. It’s the sort of thing that you don’t notice unless someone points it out. Inside, Terrazzo is the flooring of choice throughout the house. The walls are no less trendy. They have a quirky mixture of techniques. Stucco on the bottom and… sgraffito on the top. Perhaps the most remarkable feature is the ceiling. Richly decorated with papier mâché plant motifs between the beams. If you look closely no two designs are the same. Above the dining room, this bedroom was designed in a peculiar way. There is a “his” half and a “her” half, literally. The ceiling, wall and flooring colour change accordingly — even the sgraffito pattern. 47
CaixaForum / Fàbrica Casaramona James McGrath
This brick masterpiece by Catalan architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch was originally built as a textile factory known as the ‘Casaramona factory’ and is typical of the flamboyant Barcelona Modernisme style. The first thing you’ll notice about this building is the two towers. The taller one is called the water tower and has a beautiful cone of blue mosaic at the top. The other one is called the clock tower, although the clock was never installed, and has an intricate ironwork crown. Around this tower you’ll also notice a mosaic with the name ‘C. Casaramona’. This is for Casimir Casaramona i Puigcercós, the guy who originally commissioned the 48
factory. In fact, this whole building is full of wonderful details that you might not notice. Above the original entrance to the factory, you can find a mosaic of a dragon designed by Puig i Cadafalch. The building has had several different occupants over the years and in February 2002, it opened as a museum, sponsored by the Barcelona bank ‘La Caixa’. The museum now houses a media library, auditorium, restaurant and a tonne of gallery spaces across almost three acres (That’s around 12140m sq for all the architects).
Seeing as we’re here for the architecture, you can ignore all the incredible art around you and appreciate Puig i Cadafalch’s design. The best place to do this is from the public roof terrace. You’ll quickly see why this building won the City Council’s award for best industrial building in 1911, the same year it was built. The exterior of the building has a strong vertical emphasis through the use of brick ribs, culminating in castle-like pinnacles around the roof. The large distinctive windows allow lots of light in, originally for the benefit of the factory employees, now for the art-going folk. The outdoor ‘streets’ between the
different parts of the building make a lovely environment for the flaneur, but were originally designed to stop fire spreading, something the client insisted on as the previous building had been destroyed in a fire. Before reopening as a museum, the building was carefully restored and renovated by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, with over 100,000 bricks being fired to match the original ones. One difference you’ll definitely notice is Isozaki’s new entrance. Clean lines achieved through the use of steel, glass and white marble make a dramatic contrast to the decorative brickwork and fanciful details of the original factory design. 49
Castell Dels Tres Dragons Samuel Owen
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Castell dels tres dragons means castle of the three dragons. It was built between 1887-1888 as a restaurant for the 1888 universal exposition of Barcelona. It was designed by the architect LIuis Domenech I Montaner. It was designed for Spain’s first international world fair may 20th to December 9th 1888. It was not ready on time because it suffered many delays and the original architect resigned. It was bombed during World War 2 and then restored in the 1980s by architects Christian Cirici, Pep Bonet and Charles Basso. It is mainly composed of brick and sheet iron. Shaped to look like a castle with crowned battlements. It has a square plan with 4 towers at the corners and walkways between them with a double façade. It now holds the museum of zoology. It is made with a steel frame construction designed to look like a medieval castle.
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Palau de la Música Ryan Rafter
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The Palau was built between 1905 and 1908. The architect Lluís Doménech i Montaner designed the building with the purpose of it being the home to the Orfeó Catalá, a choral society based in Barcelona. The Palau underwent extensive restoration between 1982 and 1989. The Palau is located on the corner of a cramped street in a section of Barcelona known as the Casc Antic while most of the other modernist buildings are located in the chic 19th century extension of the city. This landmark won the architect, best building award in 1909 from the Barcelona City Council.
The Palau is typical of Catalan Modernism as a result of its strong curves predominating over the straight lines. The rich decoration used throughout the building emphasise floral and other organic motifs that are used regularly. The building has made full use of the materials in the early 20th Century, using steel framing and the structure being made from iron and brick. Interestingly the walls in the building are the first examples of curtain walls being used in structure. The Palau is famous for its fabulous ornamentation, sculpture and decorative structural elements. The façade incorporates traditional Spanish and Arabic architecture. There is a clever use of materials that give the feeling of transparency and openness like the blue stained glass ceiling with a red inverted dome in the centre which represents the sun and sky. As a result of this glass ceiling and dome, the palau is the only concert hall in Europe illuminated during daylight hours by natural light. The massive sculpture on the corner of the façade symbolizes Catalan music. Originally guests would enter the palau through two arches supported by thick pillars with the ticket booth inside the centre pillar. The Palau is covered in beautiful mosaics inside and out representing not only just Catalan culture but many more cultures and symbols aswell. 53
JAKE’S
whomp whomp whomp
Barcelona 2019
5. MARKETS Mercat de Santa Caterina
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Mercat de la Boqueria
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Mercat de Sant Antoni
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Mercatde Sants
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Mercat de Born
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Mercat de Santa Caterina Aoife Burke
Mercat de Santa Caterina is to be found in the area of La Ribera in Barcelona. The market has been in use since 1848 but has gone through recent rehabilitation which was completed in 2005. Rehabilitation The remodelling of The Mercat de Santa Caterina was led by Spanish architects Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue of the firm Miralles Tagliabue EMBT. They won a competition in 1997 to restore the market in Barcelona’s old quarter and to design two new buildings adjacent to the market to provide 59 public housing flats. The duo have designed many other significant spaces and 56
buildings in Barcelona including the Diagonal Mar park and the Gas Natural tower. Mosaic Roof The main feature of the market is its ceramic mosaic roof (see above). Designed to be seen from the air, the laminated tiles’ colours are inspired by those visible in a fruit and vegetable market stall, and its shape is reminiscent of traditional cloth market awnings billowing in the wind. The hand-cut tiles of the roof are from Seville and are used in a type of mosaic known as trencadĂs, a technique often used by Gaudi. This technique is a modernista tradition, and involves the cementing together of shards of tiles
and or broken glass to create a design. The trencadĂs mosaic of Mercat de Santa Caterina was designed by artist Toni Comella. History Mercat de Santa Caterina carries a lot of history. The market gets its name from the Convent of Santa Caterina, which once stood on the site that the market does today. There are three preserved facades of the original Neoclassical building, and these form part of the market’s structure, with the roof being attached to the facades with modern slatted wooden panelling (see left).
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Marcat De La Boqueria Jake Coleman
Marcat de la Boqueria is one of Barcalona’s biggest and most impressive food markets at the moment. It leaves no doubt as to why Barcelona is famous for its market culture. History: Marcat De La Boqueria is well known for its hundreds of stalls selling fresh fruit, red meat, fish, etc. The market had been in place for many years located on the same site. The market’s first historical mention was in the 13th century. Vendors would lay meat out on tables on the Marcat De La Boqueria site and sell it from there. Around 1470 onwards, pig markets where held at this spot. This market was called the Mercadi Bornet. Later 58
the market name was changed to Mercat De la Palla. this translates to the straw market. The market was given official recognition by the local council in 1926. It was decided later in 1835 to build an official structure for the market. The construction of this structure began in 1840 and the market was officially opened later that year. The design and layout of the market has changed many times over the years. The metal roof that exists today was built in 1914 and was done as to protect the food sellers and buyers that attend the market.
The markets offer vegetables, meat, fish and thousdands of other products in its stalls. The market is a place full of life. From the local chefs that travel down every morning to buy the best and freshest produce, to the locals going to pick something up for dinner; and of course the flood of tourists that go to visit the market every year.
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Mercat de Sant Antoni Alanah Hayes
During the week, you can find in this market of Barcelona’s Eixample Esquerra stalls outside selling all kinds of goods, from clothes and shoes to homewares and, inside, gleaming displays of vegetables, fruit, fish and meat. On Sundays, second-hand books and stamps for collectors captivate the visitors to the historic Mercat de Sant Antoni which retains the architecture, 60
vibrancy and charm of its origins that represent vegetables and fruit. The Mercat de Sant Antoni was designed by Antoni Rovira i Trias in 1882. Welcoming us inside above the main entrance, is the Barcelona coat of arms, crowned by a bat, and a plaque showing the year the market was built. The metal structure, typical of the markets built at the time, spans an
interior that covers an entire block in Cerdà’s Eixample district: an area large enough to contain the stalls that supply the neighbourhood of Sant Antoni. One of the most beautiful and original elements is the gallery around the perimeter of the Mercat de Sant Antoni. Green tarpaulins provide walls and ceilings protecting the circular corridor where traders sell clothes and other goods throughout the week, while on Sundays shoppers fill their bags with books, stamps, comics and magazines. A walk around the market, especially on Sundays, is a long-established ritual among the locals and visitors who come to Sant Antoni, in search of a literary relic, to swap stamps or just to browse. At night, when the stallholders shut up shop, they put their goods into wooden drawers and the Mercat de Sant Antoni falls silent. Antoni Rovira i Trias was a Catalan architect, urban planner and founder of several associations, among them Societat Filomàtica de Barcelona. He is known as the architect of several buildings in Barcelona, among them the markets of Barceloneta, La Concepció, El Born and Sant Antoni. He is also responsible for the Passatge del Comerç (1855), Teatre Circ Barcelonès (1853) and the construction of the loggia of Palau Moja (1856) and, vital to the development of the city, the demolition of the Ciutadella, the 18th-century military citadel.
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Mercat de Sans Seonadh Ganley
Mercat de Sans is a food market in grand modernist brick building, selling fish, fruit, vegetables & more, built in 1913. The Mercat de Sants is a market located in Carrer Sant Jordi 6 of the Sants district of Barcelona . It was designed by the architect Pere Falqués Urpí and opened in 1913. As a market appeared in the mid-nineteenth century and suffered several transfers 62
to its current location: from the street Sant Crist to the current square of Huesca finally arrives in some old orchards, the land it occupies at the moment. The building is a work protected as a Cultural Good of Local Interest. Occupying the old lands of the “new garden” of Sants, and on a surface of
4.118 m2, the new market of Sants was built, under the project and the works management of the municipal architect, Pere Falqués, author also of Mercado del Clot . When installing the first market, in the open air, the lands became known as the “New Market”, a denomination that was extended to the next Mercat Nou subway station . The building has a rectangular floor plan that follows the alignment of Carrer de Sant Jordi and occupies the entire island, with a metallic structure that P. Falqués opted for to cover externally with an enclosed work closure. The space is structured according to three ships with the same dimensions, with tiled roofs inclined to two waters. The architect chose to follow an architectural language away from modernism , very close to that used by Arnau Calvet in the contemporary market of Sarrià , which in some way returns to the constructions made for the Universal Exhibition of 1888 , the era of the formation Scholar of Falqués. With respect to the decoration, a façade with three windows in the shape of an arch stands out, on which you can see a mosaic with the old coat of arms of the city of Barcelona. We also find a set of narrow windows with green ceramic pieces.
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Marcet del Born Neil Macaraeg
The Mercat del Born was designed by architect Antoni Rovira i Trias in 1873 And was constructed between 1874 and 1878 by engineer Joseph Cornet i Mas and master builder Joseph FontserĂŠ. After completion of the market, it stayed open until 1971, nearly a hundred years! At the time of its closing, Mercat del Born was a functioning wholesale market, but was then replaced by Mercabarna in Zona Franca. Soon thereafter, Mercat del Born was set to be the new site of the Provincial Library. And in 2002, over 30 years after its closure, construction 64
began on the Biblioteca Provincial de Barcelona. However, the project was halted after the discovery of the eighteenth century ruins left behind by the army of Bourbon king Philip V. After the discovery of the extensive ruins of the medieval city, there was a decision made to preserve the site and move the library to an alternative location. There is now a permanent exhibition that revives the Barcelona of 1700 with thousands of artefacts found in the excavation. The subterranean ruins are visible to visitors while preserving space around the exterior for mixed use, including a museum about the
War of Succession and a cultural centre (see image above).
the 299th anniversary of the fall of Barcelona following its siege.
The Mercat del Born was then reopened after twelve years of renovations and an investment of â‚Ź84 million. The amazing structure of glass and steel is now the house of the BCC, The Born Cultural Centre. The Mercat Del Born is the largest covered square in Europe at eight thousand square meters. The official inauguration took place on September 11th in 2013, which was
It has a rectangular floor plan and consists of two large naves with a dome at its intersection. The metal structure is supported by cast iron columns and covered with glazed flat tile. This market along with Sant Antoni market are thought to be the two most successful examples of iron architecture in Catalonia.
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6. CITY QUARTERS Barrio Gottica
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La Rambla
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Olympic Village
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L’Eixample
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El Born
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Mont Juic
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Barrio Gótico Jessica Anyanwu
Barrio Góo is Catalan for gothic quarter. It is the centre of the old city centre of Barcelona, Spain. It stretches from La Rambla to Via Laietana, and from the Mediterranean seafront to the Ronda de Sant Pere. It is part of the Ciutat Vella district. Within the quarter is the oldest parts of the city of Barcelona, and it includes the remains of the city’s Roman walls and several medieval landmarks. However most of the present day buildings of the quarter, date back to the 19th and early 20th centuries. The quarter was completely transformed from a dull neighbourhood to a tourist attraction through a restoration project, for the 1929 International Exhibition. Further restoration of existing buildings and 68
the creation of brand new nee-gothic structures continuing on as far as the 1960’s. The Barrio Gòtic retains a labyrinthine street plan, with many small streets opening out into squares. Right in the centre of the Gothic quarter is the old Jewish quarter, called Jueu. In the Quarter, the Plaça del Rei showcases the architectural ensemble made up of the royal residences of the Catalan-Aragonese monarchs. Behind the Cathedral stands the beautiful Plaça de Sant Felip Neri, with its baroque church. During the Spanish Civil War (19361939) the Sant Felip Neri square was at the centre of many conflicts, including
the bombing between opposing sides. The shrapnel destroyed part of the church’s façade. The holes have been left open as a reminder of the past. The square is now seen as a space for tranquility and peace. The gothic quarter is also well known for its lively and spontaneous arts scene. Street corners are used as canvases,
on a daily basis. One of the most mysterious additions to the area’s living collection is The Hidden Spidder, that appeared on Carrer de Montjuic del Bisbe. The piece has become one of the more permanent features of the Gothic tableau. The narrow medieval streets is also filled with trendy bars, nightclubs amd Catalan restaurants.
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La Rambla Alex Ó‘Riain
Introduction La Rambla or Las Ramblas is one of the main tourist attractions in Barcelona and is often one of the first place tourists visit on their trip to this famous city. It is the central most boulevard which cuts through the heart of the city centre and is a vibrant and lively promenade filled with lots of action. The middle section of La Rambla is a broad pedestrian boulevard making it a people friendly area. Las Ramblas is approximately 1.2 kilometres long with Port Vell at the Southernmost end and Plaça de Catalunya at the Northernmost end. The different “Ramblas” La Rambla is divided into five 70
sections, which explains why many know it as Las Ramblas or Les Rambles, in Catalan. The initial stretch from Plaça de Catalunya is La Rambla de Canaletes folowed by the second stretch La Rambla dels Estudis then La Rambla de Sant Josep and La Rambla dels Caputxins and the final stretch of La Rambla, La Rambla de Santa Mònica which widens out to approach the Mirador de Colom overlooking Port Vell. These differnt sections of the street can be seen in the above map. The Experience of Walking La Rambla Walking through La Rambla is a unique experience. There is an abundance
of tourists and locals take place at all times. As a result, La Rambla is fully crowded and busy all day long. Once you start walking, you’ll notice typical newsstands, kiosks selling souvenirs, cafes, restaurants, fruit and flowershops. As you walk down this iconic street you will notice things such as the human statues and street performers (as seen below), a must see spectacle in La Rambla. The Columbus Monument marks the end of the street. Walk a bit ahead and you’ll find the Rambla de Mar, a wooden bridge over the sea that connects with Maremagnum Shopping Centre, that offers great views of the Port Vell Marina.
What to see in La Rambla La Boquería
La Boquería is Barcelona’s most iconic street market. Here you can buy and taste local products, as well as experience the Barcelona market life.
Liceu Theatre
Another notable place is the world famous Liceu Theater. Barcelona’s opera house opened in 1847 and since then has become one of the most remarkable opera houses in the world.
Placa Reial
Located right next to La Rambla, this square with charming atmosphere is a famous meeting place and home to many well known restaurants. 71
Olympic Village Senan Barrett
A New City Quarter Barcelona’s Olympic village set over 79 hectares (see opposite), constructed in 1992 and costing over ₏1 Bn to complete saw not only Olympic athletes accommodated but also the complete urban redesign and renewal of Barcelona’s coastline. Barcelona was the first city to use the summer games in this way, using 83% of the Olympic expenditure on urban regeneration. Barcelona was a city that had turned its back on the sea and the architects (MBM) overseeing the urban design of this project aimed to reconnect it back to the coast. With over 35 housing projects constructed along with the Olympic port, MBM 72
were responsible for the urban redesign of a whole sector of the city. The 35 housing projects were constructed with the future of this new quarter in mind and aimed to insert new life into it. The olympic village apartments attracted young families and almost all were sold before the games ended. This previously industrial area was now a new residential hub in Barcelona, and still is today, seeing the architects vision for this project come full circle. The success of this urban renewal was so apparent it bacame a model for future Olympic host countries and pushed the boundaries of what is possible for
a country to achieve when hosting the games. Why Visit? This portion of Barcelona was designed quite recently in 1992 by a team of architects who implemented interesting urban design strategies. It reconnected the city with its coast while also creating green areas and recreational spaces. The fish sculpture (see opposite), designed by Frank Gehry is also a mustsee, located in the centre of the village. The many housing projects designed by various architects are also a point of interest within this quarter. How To Get There The Olympic village beach is an 18 minute walk from the hostel down Carrer de Pamplona. Look out for the monument (left).
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L’Eixample
Caoimhghín Bradshaw
L’Eixample is a district in central Barcelona that was constructed in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The word “Eixample” is Catalan for expansion, it was an expansion of a district between an old city called Ciutat Bella and small surrounding towns. Currently, it has a population of 260,000. L’Eixample is one of the most dynamic and comfortable areas 74
to live in Barcelona. This is mainly due to its huge selection of services and central location. Architecture and Design The area is characterised by long, straight streets, a strict grid pattern with wide avenues, and square/ octagonal blocks with chamfered corners. This was revolutionary design
by Ildefons Cerdà who saw transport, sunlight and ventilation key factors in a good city district. Therefore he created these ‘octagonal’ blocks. The chamfered corners allow for better visibility at intersections a lot better. However, his initial plans for these blocks were distorted. The four sides of the block and the inner space were built instead of three sides with a garden at one side. Also, the streets were narrower than he wanted and only one of the two diagonal avenues was carried out. In reference to actual buildings, Antoni Gaudi had a huge influence in the area. The Sagrada Familia is considered one of Gaudi’s biggest masterpieces, the stunning modernist basilica is located beside a small lake which adds to its effect. Casa Batlló is another world famous building by Gaudi in L’eixample, again designed in a modernist style. Neighbourhoods There are six administrative neighbourhoods in L’Eixample. Shopping The Eixample’s Passeig we Gràcia is the epicentre of designer and luxury shopping in Barcelona. Here you will find major designer outlets like Luis Vuitton, Gucci and Channel. There is also many high street clothing stores here. Transport There are many transport services, these include the bus and metro. 75
El Born
Anna Kehely
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El Born is a trendy square in Barcelona and is in the heart of the city. The square is full of little medieval streets that offer designer boutiques and cafés by day, and cocktail bars and samba at night. Despite being built on top of a medieval area of jousts and celebrations, El Born has grown into being one of the most fashionable places in the city.
Top 7 Things To Do 1. Palau de la Música Catalana. The concert hall is located at the back of El Born and walking along here you can not miss the amazing architecture of this building with its bright colours and fine details. 2. The Picasso museum. See the work of Spains most famous artist, Pablo Picaaso 3. Museu Europeu d’Art Modern. The modern art museum is located on a street near the Picassco museum. The museum constantly holds different exhibitions of new artists and thought provoking pieces of art 4. Mercat de Santa Caterina. The Market of Santa Caterina is held in an unmissable bright colured building. It is full of fresh fruit, seafood and other seasonal goods. It is a great place to get a bite to eat and admire the architecture around. 5. Santa Maria del Mar. One of Barcelona’s must see Basillicas that was orignially located at the sea before the expansion of Barcelona 6. Chocolate Museum. A must see for choclate lovers. 7. El Born Centre Cultural. The old market of El Born turned in to a cultural center of Barcelona which holds exhibitions on the history of the city. 77
Montjuic Evelyn Phelan
Montjuic is located on a prominent hill in Barcelona, it is the birthplace of Barcelona because of its strategic location, at the foot of the Mediterranean. The top of the hill was the site of many fortifications the latest of which the castle of Mountjuic remains. You are able to cable car up the castle, wander around the Olympic ring or visit an art museum or two. Castle of Montjuic The castle was built in 1640. It was restored in the 18th century after the war. 1940, by the president of the Catalan government. Many executions took place by firing squad at the castle. The castle was used as a military prison until 1960 when it was given back to the city and used as an army base. Three years later, a weapons museum was opened in the castle. In 2007, the castle came under the ownership of Barcelona City 78
Council and, as a result, now belongs to all the citizens of Barcelona. Palau Nacional Majestic palace that hosts the national art museum. It is a Spanish renaissance building Magic Fountain An impressive waterworks which spurts to the tune of classical music and still functions today Grand Stair Case leading up to Avinguda de la Reina Maria Cristina Olympic Ring This is the name giving to the buildings built for the Olympic Games in 1922. Poble Espanyo A mock-Spanish village designed to showcase the various regional styles of architecture on the peninsula, which has subsequently become one of Barcelona’s most popular tourist attractions.
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Main Map & Locations
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Districts
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Public Transport
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Public Parks & Beaches
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Cedra’s Plan
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Old City
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7. MAPS
Main Map & Locations Kate Brennan
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1. Park Güell Known for its Mosaic-covered buildings, steps & sculptures in verdant park with Gaudi museum & panoramic views. 2. La Sagrada Familia Antoni Gaudí’s renowned unfinished church, started in the 1880s, with museum and city views. 3. Castell de Montjuïc 17th-century hilltop fortress & former prison, housing a military museum with impressive city views. 4. Poble Espanyol de Montjuïc Open-air museum, built in 1929, with 117 buildings showcasing Spain’s typical regional architecture.
5. Plaça de Catalunya Central, tree-lined, sculpture-filled square lined with shops & cafes, used for special events. 6. La Monumental 1914 art nouveau bullring, now used for concerts & shows, with a bullfighting history museum inside. 7. MUHBA - Colina de la Rovira Panoramic views of Barcelona from Spanish Civil War bunkers where anti-aircraft guns were installed. 8. Bellesguard Gaudí Early 1900s neo-Gothic home & spire designed by Antoni Gaudí, with audio & docent-led tours.
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Districts
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1. Ciutat Vella Size Km2: 4.49 Population: 111,290 Bars: 830 Ciutat Vella translates as “Old City”. The Plaça de Catalunya is located in this district and connects many popular streets. 2. Eixample Size Km2: 7.46 Population: 262,485 Bars: 2000 Eixample translates as “Extension”. This is where much of the iconic grid of barcelona was constructed as well as where much of Antoni Gaudi’s work is located. 3. Sants-Montjuïc Size Km2: 21.35 Population: 177,636 Bars: 1250 Within this district both Montjüic castle and the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya can be found on the Montjüic mountain overlooking Barcelona. 4. Les Corts Size Km2: 6.08 Population: 82,588 Bars: 610 Camp Nou can be found in Les Corts and is the home of FC Barcelona. 5. Sarrià-Sant Gervasi Size Km2: 20.09 Population: 140,461 Bars: 940 Sarria-Sant Gervasi is a suburb of Barcelona and is an amalgamation of old villages north of barcelona.
6. Gràcia Size Km2: 4.19 Population: 120,087 Bars: 1090 Gracia is a culturally historic district of the city. international chains are banned from this district to maintain its tradition. Parc Güell can be found here. 7. Horta-Guinardó Size Km2: 11.96 Population: 169,920 Bars: 780 This is a distinctly residential suburb of Barcelona with low rise buildings and a low cost of living. 8. Nou Barris Size Km2: 8.04 Population: 164,981 Bars: 1500 “Nine Neighborhoods” is an ethnically diverse district with a high proportion of immigrants. It is the cheapest place to live in the city. 9. Sant Andreu Size Km2: 6.56 Population: 142,598 Bars: 1000 Much like Sarria-Sant Gervasi Sant Andreu is primarily a nearby village that has been annexed into the city proper. As such it still retains a distinctly village feel. 10. Sant Martí Size Km2: 10.80 Population: 221,029 Bars: 1660 The most populous urban district. Also where we are staying! 85
Public Transport OisĂn Fee
Metro Map Legend Stations Main roads Secondary roads
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Bus and Metro links around the Twentytu Hostel Bus stations Metro stations
22 Closest bus stop to the hostel is just across the road. Closest metro is on Avinguda Meridina, a 5 minute walk.
Symbol for the Metro stations on the streets.
Symbol for the Bus stations on the streets.
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Public Parks and Beaches Christian Grange
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Cedra’s Plan Cliodhna Hodgers
Before By the mid-1850s, Barcelona had become an overcrowded, unhealthy city. It was confined by its old medieval walls and characterised by narrow, airless streets. Its population of 187,000 lived in a tiny area. With a density of 856 inhabitants per hectare (Paris had fewer than 400), the rising mortality rates were higher than those in Paris and London; life expectancy had dropped to 36 years for the rich and just 23 years for the working classes. With no land for building in the city, various strategies were used to increase accommodation - including building arches across streets to be built on, and ‘retreating facades’ (house fronts extended out into the street as they rose up – until they almost touched 90
the building opposite, preventing air circulation. Traffic was a major problem, with the narrowest street just 1.10 metres wide, while around 200 were less than three metres across. People spent much time on the streets, many carried on their trades there. Hygiene was poor and disease common. Cholera alone killed more than 13,000 people between 1834 and 1865. Into this came Cerdà. His plan consisted of a grid of streets that would unite the old city with seven local villages. The combined area was almost four times the old city (which was around 2 sq km) and came to be known as Eixample.
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Cerdà was an unknown engineer but was revolutionary in his approach. He decided to avoid repeating past errors by studying how the working classes lived in the old city - the first scientific study of what a modern city was, and could be. He calculated the volume of air one person needed to breathe correctly. He detailed professions the population might do, and mapped services they might need, such as marketplaces, schools and hospitals. He found that the narrower the city’s streets, the more deaths occurred. In short, Cerdà invented “urbanisation”, a new type of urban planning. Gardens in the centre of each street block, rich and poor accessing the same services, and smooth-flowing traffic were among
his then revolutionary ideas – many of which materialised (although not the central gardens). Eixample remains a prominent part of Barcelona’s image today: the octagonal blocks, chamfered in the corners, were his unique idea to deal with traffic, allowing drivers to see more easily what was happening to the left and right. Even today, this design makes traffic circulation easier in Eixample. Barcelona is consistently praised as an urban success story. And its fortunes were inextricably linked to Cerdà’s work, which changed it from a provincial town where it was difficult to live, to a truly modern city.
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Old City Ryan Pepper
The Old City The Old City of Barcelona is split into four Districts. Barri Gótic: The Gothic District The Barri Gótic region is the foundation to Barcelona’s History, as the Romans settled here in 133 B.C. and named the settlement Barcino. However, today the Barri Gótic region is known for its narrow and winding alleys. The Cathedral La Seu forms the centre of the district with many squares and historical buildings throughout the district. Barric gothic sights: - La rambla -Catedral La Seu of Barcelona (see to right) - Mesue de l’Erótica - Placa Reial Raval: Old Town District of the Imigrants Raval was traditional used for the sole purpose of agriculture in the middle ages. Raval later became the district of monasteries up until the riots of Barcelona in 1835 in which these monasteries were burned down due to overpopulation settlement began to take place. Today, Raval is known for its nightlife and has become an important music place in the music and art scene. 92
Sights at Raval: - MACBA museum for contemporary art (see top of page) - The opera Gran Teatre del Liceu Sant Pere, Santa Catarina i la Ribera. The district itself is divided into 3 separate areas. Santa Maria del Mar, which is one of the most impressive churches in Barcelona as it seems like a fortress with its monumental towers. (see next page) Old market Hall, ‘El Born’ which was used up until the end of the 19th century.
Market Santa Caterina, which is the central market hall built in 1848 and redesigned in 2005. Sights in Sant Pere, Santa Catarina i la Ribera: - Picasso museum -Santa Maria del Mar -Arc de Triomf Barceloneta Barceloneta is the district between the harbour and the beach. Barceloneta is the smallest part of the city and forms a triangle between the Port Vell, the old port and the Platja de Barceloneta. Barceloneta is famous for its sea food as it was formally the fishermen quarter, and it has access to fresh fish daily. The sights of Barceloneta: - The Beach - Museu d’Historia de Catalunya - The restaurants Old city map. ( see left)
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Picasso & Barcelona
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Dalí & Figueres
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Joan Miró Foundation
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8. ART
Picasso and Barcelona Emily Ho
Early Pablo Picasso As a teenager, Picasso hated his academic studies and would often not attend class and instead, stroll the corridors of El Prado Museum instead. He often switched between Madrid and Barcelona in order to work with masterminds of the likes of Velazquez and El Greco. This is when Picasso started to paint in a more sombre 96
and mournful tone during what we call the Blue Period. Barcelona’s Picasso Museum has an excellent selection of he paintings he did of friends, landscapes and prostitutes. This includes his more famous works such as the Blue Potrait of Jaume SabartÊs, Motherhood and Rooftops of Barcelona. (See above in order)
Cubist Movement (Factory at Horto de Ebro - top left) Picasso left Barcelona to pursue life in Paris but his work, in what many would consider the start of the Cubism Movement, were of his painting of prostitutes in a whorehouse in Barcelona’s Barri Gotic, which he referred as El Bordel. (see top left) “This painting, Les Demoiselles d’Avignon, was painted in 1907 and is the most famous example of cubism painting. In this painting, Picasso abandoned all known form and representation of traditional art. He used distortion of female’s body and geometric forms in an innovative way, which challenge the expectation that paintings will offer idealized representations of female beauty. It also shows the influence of African art on Picasso.” Picasso Museum Although he never went back to Barcelona after the fiascos of Franco and his fascist dictatorship, his close friend and secretary. Jaume Sabartés opened up a Museum of his paintings as a standing tribute in Barcelona. It was compromised by Sabartés personal collection as well as works Picasso donated himself. After their deaths, other private collectors and Picasso’s relatives helped increase this collection. To this day, the Picasso Museum has almost 4,000 works, mainly of his earlier works before his cubism days. 97
Dalí and Figueres Auryn Mahon
Salvador Dalí (See right) was born on the 11th of May 1904, in the town of Figueres, in Catalonia, Spain. The first exhibition of Dalí’s artwork was held in the family home, in 1917. In 1922, Dalí enrolled at the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando in Madrid. It was while attending the Academy that Dalí was exposed to the ideas of great minds such as Einstein and Le Corbusier. In November 1925, he held his first solo exhibition at Galeries Dalmau in Barcelona. Unfortunately, Dalí was expelled from the Academy just before his final exams. In 1926, Dalí visited Paris, where he met Pablo Picasso, who had heard favourable things about Dalí from artist Joan Miro. After studying the psychoanalytic concepts of Sigmund Freud, as well as Surrealists like Miro, Dalí began to use psychoanalytic methods of mining the subconscious, to generate imagery. Dalí also experimented with reinterpreting reality and altering perception. His first painting of note created using these methods, was Apparatus and Hand (1927). (See opposite above). In 1929, Dalí met his future wife, Gala, and joined the Surrealist group in the Montparnasse quarter of Paris. In the 1930’s, Dalí created his own Paranoiac Critical Method which, through systematic irrational thought and self-induced paranoia, allowed him to create such masterpieces as 98
Persistence of Memory (1931) (See opposite middle). In 1934, Dalí was expelled from the Surrealist group due to differing views on Communism, Fascism, and General Franco. During WWII, Dalí and Gala lived in the USA. While living there, Dalí expanded his practice, and began experimenting with designing clothes, jewellery and furniture. Dalí also had a role in the creation of Alfred Hitchcock’s film, Spellbound (1945), by creating the dream sequence. Dalí and Gala moved back to Catalonia, in 1948. In 1960, Dalí purchased a ruined theatre in Figueres, and turned it into his Theatre and Museum, where he could display his artwork.
In 1968, Dalí bought a castle for his wife, and soon they began drifting apart. This caused Dalí to begin suffering from depression. In 1982, the same year that Gala died, King Juan Carlos granted Dalí the title of Marqués de Dalí de Púbol in the nobility of Spain. After Gala’s death, Dalí’s mental and physical health began to severely deteriorate. On the morning of the 23rd of January 1989, Salvador Dalí passed away due to heart failure at age 84. He is buried below the stage in his Theatre and Museum in Figueres. Dalí Theatre and Museum The Dalí Theatre and Museum (See below left) is located in Figueres, in Catalonia, Spain. It holds the world’s largest collection of works by Dalí. For more information, visit www.salvador-dali.org. Tickets Tickets can be purchased online or at the museum. Individual tickets are €15, Student tickets are €11, and Group tickets (For 25+ people. Reservation needed) are €11. Travel The best way to reach Figueres is by train. Trains leave from the Passeig de Gràcia train station in Barcelona, and arrive at the Vilafant train station in Figueres. Train tickets start at €16, and the journey takes 2 hours on the train, and then a 20 minute walk from the train station, to reach the Museum and Theatre. 99
Joan Miró & Joan Miró Fundació Stuart Medcalf
Located on Montjuic hill south-west of Barcelona and designed by the rationalist style architect Josep Lluis Sert, who’s ideoligies were influenced by Wright, Groupios, Van Der Rohe and Le Corbusier, the Fundació Joan Miró, this shimmering white temple which houses the lifetime work of Joan Miro, which includes an impressive collection of over 220 paintings, 180 100
sculptures and some 8000 drawings, of which a small portion of his work is only ever displayed. Circulation Each room gives the impression of Miro’s artistic development paying divident to large tapestry’s draped in his trademark primary colours down to scribbly sketches in notebooks.
Style The museum subtly blends the ratios between the modular with an architectural language synonymous with mediterranean culture, it’s appearance is ‘whitewashed’ but bold. Its sheer volume enriches the space that occupies internally providing a dynamic of levels and thus creating spacious double height rooms with indirect
natural lighting. Additionally, it offers outdoor patios, which connects elements between rooms providing transparency to the entire space. Access You can take a day trip to the museum from the central bus park, taking the 55 and 150 routes. 101
Barcelona Cathedral
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Sagrada Familia
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Parc Guell
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Barcelona Pavilion
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Forum Herzog de Meuron
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Olympic Archery Range
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Sala Beckett
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Casa Bloc
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Igualada Cemetery
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9. ARCHITECTURE
Barcelona Cathedral Jedd Cabreza
Barcelona Cathedral (also known as “The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia”) is Barcelona’s most magnificent and majestic form of Gothic Architecture. It is also known as Barcelona La Seu. The location of the cathedral sits in the heart of Barcelona City. The cathedral and its square mark the beginning of Gothic Art and Architecture in Barcelona. The square filled by a crowd of bystanders, street vendors, street musicians and tourists, including locals. The cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Barcelona. History of the Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral identifies as a classic Gothic church. The cathedral dates back to the 13th Century. The construction first began between the 13th and 15th Centuries. It broke ground in 1298, ordered by King James II. The cloisters completed its construction in 1448. It remained unbuilt until industrialist Manuel Girona, in 1887, completed the work by the original design. Shortly, the towers were added, crowned with the image of Saint Helena. The cathedral was named after Saint Eulalia, the city’s co-patron saint. As a young 13-year-old girl, Eulalia suffered martyrdom, including 13 tortures before death. After her death, her body was entombed in the cathedral’s crypt.
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The Exterior Design Barcelona Cathedral consists of beautifully-designed facades. The cathedral has over five doors. The main door of the cathedral reveals a huge Gothic arch above. A stone sculpture of Christ, located in the higher middle between the main doors, keeps watching over the entrance while the stone sculpture of the twelve apostles occupies on each side. There are 75 figures and eight stainedglass windows which run the gamut from Renaissance to Modernist. Two side towers flanked the dome of the cathedral which crowns Saint Helen’s statue.
The Door of Sant Ivo has been the church’s main entrance for over 500 years. The door on the lefthand side of the church in the main square, made by the use of marble from Montjuic. Design Appearance Barcelona Cathedral has a typical floor plan of Gothic churches in a cruciform shape with three aisles, an ambulatory and a transept. The Interior Design The Barcelona Cathedral is found with monuments and chapels, dedicating to more than 140 different saints. The cathedral’s front alter locates the crypt of Saint Eulalia. The choir, one of its best features, is carved and designed by Pedro Çanglada in 1403. Lepanto’s Chapel is decorated with paintings in honour of Saint Eulalia, and is used for visitors to pray in silence. The Cloisters The entrance features a white marble door, which is said as a leftover from the original Romanesque cathedral built in 1046. Rectangular cloisters are made up of four galleries. With it, pillars depicts the Old Testement scenes while the vault keystones depicts the New Testement scenes. The central garden is filled with palm trees and a 15th Century fountain. The site of the pond is where 13 white geeses reside representing the 13 years of Saint Eulalia’s life.
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Sagrada Familia Patrick Moscu
History of Sagrada Familia The Sagrada Familia is a gothic basilica which was designed by the famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi which began construction in 1882 but it was not until 1883 that Antoni was involved with the project and then would go on to become appointed the director of the project in 1884. However Gaudi later on became increasing aware that he would not see hes basillica build in hes life time and so dedicated his last few years to making sure hes project was going to plan but died on Thursday 10th of June 1926 at the age of 73 due to major trauma after being hit by a tram were he had sufferd broken ribs and server internal bleeding before passing away. History of its Construction The Sagrada Familia has been in constructionever since 1882 and stil being build o this day with its completion date estimated to be around 2026 which would land on the hundred year commemerasion of Antoni,s death where the bisilica will stand at 170meters tall when finally complete. To give a better perception of how long the Sagrada Familia has been in construction for which has been over 137 years so far and once it is fully build it will have taken more time to construct than the Egyptian Pyramids and only 50 years less than the great wall of China. 106
Important Information Opening hours: March 9 am to 7 pm. with the last ticket to get in being sold at 30 minutes befor closing time . Cost of entery is 24 euro. Getting here: Metro L2 and L5 Sagrada FamĂlia. and the bus is an option to get to the sagrada familia Bus 19, 33, 34, 43, 44, 50, 51, B20 and B24.
Facts 1. Sagrada Familia has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. 2. Vandaslism People have tried to take down Sagrada Familia in the midst of the Spanish civil war in 1936. A group of architects broke in and set fire to the crypt. 3. Cost It cost 25 million euros annually to build. 4. It is no longer a cathedral. As of 2010 Pope Benedict XVI declared it a basilica. 5. GaudĂ is Buried There Located in the underground level of the building, visitors can come see the tomb for themselves. The tomb is surrounded by four chapels, each dedicated to a different figure. 6. 18 Towers When La Sagrada Familia is completed, it will have 18 towers. 12 towers will represent the apostles, four will represent the evangelists, one for the Virgin Mary, and the last one, will represent Jesus Christ. 7. Use of Computers Without the use of computers it would have taken alot more time to construct as it speed up the process hugely.
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Park Guell Adam Farrelly
Park Guell is a public park located on Carmel Hill, Barcelona. The park was originally proposed to be a residential site, a place of high quality with the latest technology of the time accompanied with an unique artistic touch. Gaudi planned the park to accommodate 60 houses for Eusebi 108
Gßell. It is a reflection of Gaudi’s work which resembles the natural world. Only two houses ended up getting built in the park and nobody wanted to buy them. Gßell persuaded Gaudi into buying the house moving in 1906 and staying there for twenty years along with his family.
The Gaudí house museum holds some of his original work and some collaborations. To enter the park is free but in order to gain access to the “monumental zone” there is an extra fee. Gaudí’s house is located in the monumental zone. Even though Gaudí planned the park he did not build his house. Entering the park you are greeted by a mosaic lizard. surrounding the lizard is a stairs leading up to a large porch that supports a square. This porch and square was to be used as a market, the square is supported by columns that are used to filter water into a chamber. Located in the park there is a playground, fountains, bar, bookstore, Gaudí’s life museum, skating rink, WC and space for dogs of course (woof woof!!)
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Barcelona Pavilion Cormac Stott
The Barcelona Pavilion was designed by the world renowned architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe in 1928. He designed the Pavilion in tandem with Lily Reich as the German national pavillion for the 1929 Barcelona international exhibition. The Pavilion was designed to host the official reception of King Alfonso XIII of Spain with the German authorities. The Pavilion was never designed to last the test of time. With construction finished in 1929, it was demolished in 1930 when the exhibition was over.
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The Pavilion’s unabashedly modern use of materials, pristine geometry, and sheer beauty kickstarted the modernist movement. Mies van der Rohe’s Pavilion offered a view as to what twentieth century architecture could be. He showed what was possible. The building was the first of its kind, but has been replicated many times by architects inspired by Mies’ design. Due to its huge architectural significance, it was decided that it would be reconstructed in 1980. A group of Catalan architects set about restoring the Pavilion to its original glory using what little photos and drawings remained.
The Pavillion is constructed from glass, steel, and four different types of stone. The Pavilion lies atop a plinth of travertine. U-shaped walls, also travertine, create an enclosed space. Chrome plated cruciform columns hold down a thin concrete coated steel slab, painted white. This roof appears to float above planes of green apline marble, ancient greek green marble, golden onyx marble, and glass which act as spacial dividers. The divide between internal and external is not immediately obvious. The building is flanked by reflecting pools at either end, with the northern pool housing a single sculpture; George Kolbe’s ‘Dawn’ Mies said that he wished this building to be an “ideal zone of tranquility”. He hoped it would serve as a rset space within the exhibition. Despite being situated on a main route between attractions, the travertine enclosure creates a sense of distance from the noise of the city. Inside the pavilion sits only the iconic Barcelona Chair. The lack of other art further adds to the sense that the Pavilion is a space completely separate from what lies outside. Pictured clockwise from left is the Pavilion externally overlooking the southern reflecting pool, Mies’ original plan drawing, the golden onyx plane and Barcelona Chair in the interior, and the northern reflecting pool with George Kolbe’s ‘Dawn’
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The Forum Building Joshua Goyenechea
Since 2012, it has been known as ‘Museu Blau’; the Forum Building was designed by the Swiss Architects Herzog & de Meuron on a ‘terrain vague’ site which had industrial installations, residual water treatment plant, and a petrol station. It is now hard to ignore its triangular mass, which elevates and maximises possible footprint by forming an extensive cover for the plaza. It is located at the very end of Avenida Diagonal, where it meets the Mediterranean coast and connects to a newly created gigantic artificial platform. The Forum building functions as one of the seats of Barcelona’s Museu de les Ciències Naturals. Its surface constitutes a remarkable use of materials that plays with surfaces, textures, and pattern. Under its triangular body a public space emerges— a hybrid space, with a mixture of several urban spaces: an open market, courtyard, chapel, bar, kiosks, and other simple facilities that complement the exhibition centre. It also establishes a relationship between the street and other levels of the building through a series of courtyards that cut through the elevated volume.
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For its onlookers, it always permits a new angle of vision and changing play of light. It is a building that allows maximum combination of function, flexibility, and spatial interaction.
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Olympic Archery Range Mosaab Hamid
Architects The Olympic Archery Range was designed by Enric Miralles and Carme Pinos (above) to be a place of reflection and memories. The dazzling rhythmic complexity of the construction drawings for Barcelona’s Olympic Archery Range, completed in 1991, brought more fame to the 1992 Olympic event than any arrow shot from the buildings’ shadow. The drawings show an overlay of organic curves and rectilinear shapes working in sublime harmony, producing a composition that clearly 114
conveys both the architects’ concept and the process through which it was developed. Amazingly, the project is no less spectacular in person than on paper, and its completion helped launch the husband-and-wife partnership of Enric Miralles and Carme Pinos into international stardom. Project It is located in the hilly outlying neigbourhood of La Valle d’Hebron in Barcelona, the site chosen for
the competition was previously a crowded athletic park of flattened rugby and soccer fields (see left). The winning design submitted by Miralles and Pinos added two new archery facilities to the complex, a competition pavilion and a training pavilion separated by the length of an archery range. The two buildings are visually distinct but are united by a shared design process that takes into careful consideration the building’s place in the landscape. Neither obeys a rationally ordered programmatic or tectonic system, and the buildings are instead the products of an imaginative and expressive architectural method. The competition pavilion is composed of two principal elements: an exposed concrete wall system overlooking the archery range, and a retaining wall nestled into the hill from which the building emerges. According to the architects, the plan was derived from extrapolations of the pre-existing topographical contour lines and take into account programmatic demands for athletic facilities and changing rooms. Because the competition was won by Miralles and Pinos as late as 1989, the project required a quick turnaround on design and construction. The architects accordingly specified a prefabricated modular wall system consisting of a repeated curved concrete panel, perforated with holes to allow light in (see left). It was intended to be easy to assemble and take down.
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Sala Beckett Theatre Evin Lawlor
Led by Architects Ricardo Flores and Eva Prats, rhe ‘sala beckett’ project began in 2011 where they carefully studied the production activities, theatrical experimentation and going-ons to get a clearer understanding of emotional tiees between the users and the architecture, dating back to the 1920’s the building was in desperate need of restoration, the interpretation by flores and prats stems from the spatial and decorative qualities of the existing building. Each significant element has been carefully collected, from the frames to the doors, the polychrome tiles, rose windows, and the plaster work. The design process included an in-depth study of the environmental characteristics. The restored Sala Beckett reflects the dense memories profoundly rooted in the culture of the historical industrial district, The building is located at the intersection of Carrer de Pere IV nad Carrer de Batista.The corner opening in the facade makes the actvities carried out on the inside visable and accessible. The Sala Beckett Theatre is a place not just to perform contemporary theatre but dedicated to the formation of young actors, giving them the possibility to put in scene their plays for the first time. Sala Beckett is also a place were the most renowned Catalan actors have studied.Founded 20 years ago by Sanchis-Sinisterra as Teatro Fronterizo, is today a reference in the drama world in and outside the country. 116
Ricardo Flores and Eva Prats spent much time learning about the production activities and theatrical experiment discussing with Toni Casares and the other future users of the new spaces. The architects visited Theatre des bouffes du Nord and studied several cases, enabling them to develop a personal and profound awareness of the subject matter which they then reinterpreted inside the old building with their meticulous ability to dialogue with spaces and their histories . The faded vibrant colors and interior details have been brought back to life. Substantial traces of the original building is left intact, turning all the signs of time and the uses of the building into a device which to give further meaning to the drama.This space where long ago neighbours had celebrated marriaged, first communions and parties, which was abondoned for many years. A large foyer connects all the levels through a series of successive openings, exposing completely the building to a promenade of interior sights, thus the foyer becomes somehow a domestic place, where relations and exchanges can happen unexpectedly.The building was completed in 2014 with construction time at around 3 years and an estimated cost of 2.5 million euros. The area of the building is just under 3000 meters squared.
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Casa Bloc Alex McGuinness
Casa Bloc is a residental building comprised of 200 apartments built in
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the Sant Andreu district of Barcelona between 1932 and 1936.
The architects that designed Casa Bloc were Josep Torres Clavé, Josep Iluís Sert and Joan Baptista Subriana. These architects were all part of GATCPAC (A Catalan group of architects and technicians for the progress of contemporary architecture). Casa Bloc was designed to improve workers living conditions. At that time, most workers’ were living in very poor conditions. The architects wanted to design decent housing at a low cost, while still suggesting new ways of quality living within an urban environment. The completion of Casa Bloc was prevented by the beginning of the Spanish Civil war. Casa Bloc was completed after the war but many changes were made that did not reflect the architects’ initial intentions. The units in Casa Bloc have two, three or four bedrooms, a variable that was expected to meet the needs of most families. All rooms are exterior, with natural light and ventilation. The house also has openings on both sides of the block, allowing easy cross ventilation. Apartment 1/11 was restored to the architects’ original design and is now open to the public. It is preserved as a reference to architectural ideas about worker housing at the time of the second Spanish republic.
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Igualada Cemetery Izzy Walsh
Completed in 1994 after 10 years of construction, the Igualada Cemetery, which replaced the old cemetery “vell�, is thought to be a place of reflection and memeories, a graveyard reimagined. The cemetery became widely regarded as one of the most poetic works of twentieth century Catalan architecture.
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The architects Enric Miralles and Carme Pinos envisioned a new type of cemetary that began to consider those that were laid to rest as well as the families that still remained. Unlike most cemeteries the Igualada Cemetery is said to be a thing of beauty which evokes positivity, happiness, love, peace and acceptance.
The architects conceptualised the poetic ideas of a cemetery for the visitors to begin to understand and accept the cycle of life as a link between the past, present and future. Enric Miralles, who died in the year 2000, is buried in one of the tombs. The architecture of the cemetary blends seamlessly into the Catalonian landscape as if it were a natural aspect of the land. Miralles employed earthy materials of concrete, stone, and wood into the project. The gabion walls, the worn concrete, and the wooden railroad ties embedded in the stone groundscape evoke the hard and rough landscape of the surrounding hills. It’s designed as a tiered landscape that unfolds into the natural surroundings as one continuous fluid progression. A processional “street” descends from the entrance, where crossed, rusting, steel poles doubling as gates and likened to the crosses at Calvary, proclaim the start of a winding pathway towards the burial area. The intention was to bring the bereaved down into the landscape to a ‘city of the dead’, an in between place where the dead and the living are brought closer together. The main burial area is part of a lowered excavated part of the cemetery that is surrounded by gabion walls and the mausoleum-like burial plots, which obstructs the visitor’s vision from the surrounding context secluding them in an area where the sky is the only visible entity outside of the central burial area. 121
Antoni Gaudi
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Miralles Pinos
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Josep Puig i Cadafalch
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Josep Antoni Coderch
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Flores & Prats
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Josep LluĂs Sert
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10. ARCHITECTS
Antoni Guadi Conall Dillon
Antoni Gaudí lived from June 25 1852 –June 10 1926, he was a Spanish architect known as the greatest exponent of Catalan Modernism. Gaudís works have a highly recognisable, and one of a kind style. Most are located in Barcelona, including his main work, the Church of the Sagrada Família. Gaudís work was influenced heavily by his passions in life: nature and religion. He considered every detail of his creations and integrated it into his architecture such crafts as ceramics, stained glass, ironwork forging and carpentry. He also introduced new techniques with certain materials, such as trencadís which used waste ceramic pieces to create mosaics. Under the influence of neo-Gothic art and Oriental techniques, Gaudí became part of the Modernista movement which was reaching its peak in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. His work surpassed mainstream Modernisme, developing into an organic style inspired by natural forms and unprecedented juxtapositions of geometric masses. The surfaces of which were highly detailed with patterned brick or stone. Gaudí rarely drew detailed plans of his works, instead he preferred to create them as scale models and moulding the details as he wanted them to be.
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Gaudís work is extremally popular across the globe and continues to gain admiration and study by architects to this day. His masterpiece, the still-incomplete Sagrada Família, is the most visited monument in Spain, attracting 4.5 million people in 2017. Between 1984 and 2005, seven of his works were declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. Gaudís Roman Catholic faith grew during his life and religious images appear in many of his works. This earned him the nickname “God’s Architect”. Gaudí’s death ironically came during his daily walk on the site around the Sagrada Familia, Gaudí was hit by a tram along the Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes. Because of the 73 year olds unkept appearance, people who witnessed the accident thought he was a beggar. Gaudí lost consciousness, but taxi drivers wouldn’t bother taking a beggar to the hospital. A doctor who lived along the Gran Via, was alerted to the accident and went to examine the old man, but he concluded that nothing could be done. A police officer eventually took the responsibility, taking the injured Gaudí to the Hospital de la Santa Creu, where he got only the basic care that a begger would receive. It wasn’t until the next day that the chaplain at the Sagrada Família recognized the beggar as the famous architect, but it was too late Gaudí died two days later, on June 10, 1926. 125
Mirelles Pinos Shane Bannigan
The Early Years Enric Mirelles was born in 1955 in Catalonia. He began studying architecture and later graduated from the Barcelona School of Architecture (ETSAB) at the Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) in 1978 when he was 23. Carme Pinos was born in 1954. She studied Escuela Técnica Superior de Arquitectura de Barcelona (ETSAB) and graduated in 1979. The partnership of Carme Pinos and Enric Miralles began with the death of General Franco, and the beginnining of the democracy of Spain. With a new need for Schools, Hospitals, Sports Centres and other facilities, a new found freedom was given to 126
the architects of the time, delivered via architectural competitions as well as a more open minded view of architecture. The Parnership The work of Enric Mirelles and Carme Pinos is hard to define within the realm of contemporary architecture due to the wide range of influences, especially Mirelles’. His influences span from Spanish architects, like Alejandro de la Sorta, Jose Anontio Coderch and Josep Maria Jujol, along with the international greats like Le Corbusier, Louis Kahn and Alvar Aalto. He also took great influence from the Russian Constructivist Movement.
The Olympic Archery Range The project that pushed the Mirrelles Pinos partnership into the spotlight was the Olympic Archery Range in Barcelona, which was completed in 1991 for the 1992 Olympics. Recognisable from its plan drawings (See image above), it shows a series of curves and rectilinear shapes which together create a delicate harmony. It is located in La Valle D’Hebron in Barcelona.
The cemetary has a very strong concept behind it, creating a physical representation of the cycle of life, and how it creates a link between the living and the dead. The cementary is built in the Catalonian Hills, and rather than leveling the site they wanted to build on, they designed around the terrain, forming an earthwork that blends into the hill.
Igualada Cemetary The next project they completed was the Igualada Cemetery, in 1994. The cemetery was designed to create a place of reflection, for loved ones to visit their deceased.
The partnership lasted from 1984 to 1992, working on a total of 12 projects together. Their professional career together ended along with their marriage.
The End
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Josep Puig i Cadafalch Daniel Herbst
Josep Puig i Cadafalch is one of the most renowned architects in Barcelona. He is known as the last representative of modernism in architecture and the first to establish the style of Noucentisme after his era of Modernism. Noucentisme in Catalonia was a Catalan cultural movement of the early 20th century that originated largely as a reaction against Modernisme. History Josep Puig i Cadafalch was born in the industrial town on the coast named Mataró in 1867, around 20km north of Barcelona. In school, Josep studied architecture and mathematics, physics and natural sciences. Soon after finishing his studies, Josep was given the position as head of the office of Municipal Architecture in Mataró. During the next five years he designed and built buildings in Mataró and received a professorship of Hydraulics and Strength of Materials at the School of Architecture in Barcelona
Architecture
Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s creative period can be divided into three periods of style: Modernism, Idealism and Monumentalism.
Modernism was his first creative style. As a model for his buildings Josep liked to use the country house of the Catalan nobility, to which he then added Nordic style features. This style period includes the decorative Casa 128
by his clients. During this period Josep designed the Casa Trinxet, one of the jewels of modernism in Barcelona, the Casa Muntades, a pretty detached house on the Tibidabo and the Casa Company.
Monumentalism is his third Amatller, which belonged to the chocolate merchant Amatller, on Passeig de Gràcia. The Casa Martí, home to the famous coffee maker “Els 4 gats”, and the Casa de les Punxes. The restaurant “Els 4 gats” is especially legendary. It used to be the meeting place of modernist bohemians like Santiago Russinyol, Ramon Casas and Pablo Picasso.
Idealism was the style period that
followed after modernism. Josep orientated this style to the new upper bourgeoisier (the middle class, typically with reference to its perceived materialistic values or conventional attitudes). His buildings were planned according to rational and practical criteria given
creative period. It developed parallel to the preparations for the 1929 World’s Fair in Barcelona, for which Puig as chief architect designed the general plan of a uniform design of the exhibition. But after the takeover of power by Primo de Rivera in 1923, a new competition was created. As a result, numerous architects were commissioned with the construction of individual sections. The result was a collection of different styles, which harmonized little with each other. In 1956, Josep Puig i Cadafalch died at the age of 89 at his home in Barcelona.
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Josep Antoni Coderch Clara McGimsey
Born in Barcelona in the year 1913, Josep Antoni Coderch studied architecture under Josep Maria Jujol, who collaborated with her on a variety of famous works such as Casa Batlló and Parc Guëll. After he finished his studies, Coderch opened an architecture studio in Barcelona with partner Manuel Valls. Business picked up relatively quickly and 130
Coderch found himself creating some of the most important works of his career just two years after. Many don’t know but Josep Antoni Coderch did more than architectural work. He also dabbled in industrial design, creating a handful of fireplaces and lamps, and did some photography work, which has been featured in different venues in Spain. José Antonio Coderch’s
architectural production comprises 296 cataloged projects, including single family homes and residential buildings, as well as commercial, industrial and institutional buildings. Some of his most famous works include La Barceloneta (1951) , Cocheras de Sarriå (1968) and the TRADE Buildings (1966), all situated in Barcelona. The Trade Towers: The Trade Towers are a group of buildings that house a number of offices. The towers opened their doors in 1968 and have since been declared a site of architectural interest by Barcelona’s Town Hall. Josep Antoni Coderch designed a number of interesting residential buildings in the district of Sarrià -Sant Gervasi. His innovative use of panels gave the buildings a distinctive feeling, not similar to anything that had been built until that time. Coderch had discovered his own way of working. He used one-off houses to explore possibilities, to test ideas for generic housing design. He drew on his fluency as a designer, as well as his architectural literacy, learning from Neutra, Wright and Breuer, to go way beyond contemporary conventions. He designed every detail from furniture to fittings, carpets, bedspreads, even selected the plants. During his career, Josep Antoni Coderch recieved a variety of architecture and design awards and went on to become a representative of CIAM and to teach at Escuela Superior de Arquitectura de Barcelona.
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Flores and Prats Katie O’Donnell
Architects Flores & Prats is an architectural practice based in Barcelona, Spain, founded by Eva Prats and Ricardo Flores in 1998. They are dedicated to architecture research and teaching, the rehabilitation of abandoned structures and the design of social housing. Both partners are Associate Professors at ETSAB. Since 1998 they have lectured in Spain and 132
abroad, They have explored a range of architectural representation, including film and insist on an �old fashioned� architecture, with hand drawings and handcrafted models. Ricardo Flores and Eva Prats developed a career where research is always linked to the responsibility to make and build, where importance is given to participating in the interpretation of the constructed work.
Works Their projects, most of which are the result of open competitions, have investigated in fields such as rehabilitation, social housing, or urban public spaces and neighbourhood participation. Some of their most well known projects include the Sala Beckett Theatre in Barcelona, the Casal Balaguer in Palma de Mallorca and Edificio 111, a building of 111 social dwellings in Terrassa. They have participated in the 14th, 15th and 16th Biennale di Venezia. They stood out particularly in the 2018 exhibition with their Morning Chapel. This tiny woodland chapel is an early morning place, where the first sunlight becomes visible through a circular hole in the wall and illluminates a small alter on the opposite wall. Awards The work of Flores & Prats has been awarded, published and exhibited internationally. They have been part of the Emerging Offices Wallpaper Directory in 2007. They won the Grand Prize for the Best Architectural Work of the Royal Academy of Arts in London 2008 for Mills Museum in Palma de Mallorca, which was also a recipient for the Mallorca Architecture Award. Flores & Prats were nominated for the International Prize Dedalo Minosse in Vicenza in 2011 and have been nominated for the European Union Prize for Contemporary Architecture - Mies van der Rohe Award three times. 133
Josep LLuís Sert Kotryna Knystautaite
Early Life Josep Lluis Sert (i Lopez) was born on 1 July 1902, in Barcelona, Spain and died on 15 March 1983 (80 y/o). He was a famous architect and city planner. From a young age Josep Lluís Sert showed an interest in the work of his uncle; Josep María Sert, a painter, and also in the work of Gaudí- a famous architect. He ended up studying architecture at the Escola Superior d’Arquitectura in Barcelona. He set up his own studio in Barcelona in 1929, but in the same year he was invited to go work with Le Corbusier (without pay) and he accepted. He worked with him for a year and then returned to work in his own practice in Barcelona. Career He co-founded the group GATCPAC (Group of Catalan Artists and Technicians for the Progress of Contemporary Architecture) in the 1930s. In 1937, when he lived in Paris, he was chosen to build the Spanish pavilion at the world’s fair, The Paris Exposition 1937. The Spanish pavilion that year was put on display next to the Nazi Germany pavilion, right after the Nazi’s had bombed the town of Guarnica, Spain. Sert contacted his friend; Picasso, who created a painting, ‘Guarnica’, which was 134
displayed at the pavilion. In 1939 Sert moved to New York where he began to work with the Town Planning Associates. They worked at creating urban plans for South American cities. In 1952 he worked as a professor in Yale University. The following year he became Dean of the Harvard School of Design. There he set up the world’s first programme for an Urban Design degree. In 1981 he received the AIA gold medala medal awarded by ‘the American Institute of Architects’ and given to those who have a significant body of work that has a lasting influence on the theory and practice of architcture.
Works in Barcelona One of the best known work by Sert in the city is the ‘Fundació Joan Miró’. This modern building which is halfway between architecture and sculpture was built between 1972 and 1974. It was designed by Sert and a group of artists. The building displays many Mediterranean architecture features like central courtyard, rooftop access and skylights. This work of art over the years has become a cultural reference of the city. The building is situated in Montjuic Park. The second most famous work of Josep Lluis Sert in Barcelona is the ‘Pavelló of the Republic’. This, unfortunately, is not the original building, but a copy of the Spanish pavilion that Sert had built for the Paris Exposition in 1937. This pavilion was built using inexpensive materials, which maintained Sert’s rationalist ideas. In this replica they have even included a copy of the ‘Guernica’ (the painting by Picasso that was displayed at the original pavilion). The ‘Pavelló of the Republic’ is located in a forgotten place of the Horta-Guinardó district behind the famous Mistos (matches) of Claus Oldenburg.
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