1x2x Memories of Tomorrow
A fashion/photography project by Anne Schartmann & Mareen Fischinger
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1x2x – Memories of Tomorrow, consisting of a womenswear collection and its representation in photographs is inspired by Berlin. Berlin is different from other capitals: Though desperately broke, its citizens live in a financial freedom – a reason why a lot of creative people and artists choose Berlin to be the place to live and work. Its history, the division and reunion left traces in architecture as well as in the atmosphere. The presence of the past is strong and visible, but technically the united city is not even 20 years old yet.
Berlin is still on its way to develop, structurally and creatively as well. While second-hand clothes and trash has been fashionable for way too long, Anne wanted to create her personal idea of Berlin fashion, or better: results of an exchange between Berlin and herself. Berlin is real and genuine, a condition we wanted to show. 04
As the city once existed twice (1x2x), Anne had the idea to create a RTW collection which contains two colour versions of each outfit, one in bright and fashionable colours, the other in black, white and grey scales, inspired by the old photographs of Berlin’s reconstruction. The pieces shall combine the heaviness of the past, pointed out by accentuated shoulders and definite geometrical shapes, and the lightness and freedom of people’s presence at the same time.
In reference to the 1920s, the silhouette stresses the low hip and stretches the upper part of the body optically; Anne always tries to play with the bodies’ proportions. The patterns and the manufacturing of each colour version are exactly the same, but the material and character are supposed to be contrary. Transections and seams give some garments stability; other parts are just stuck together at one point, so they hang loose and airy. The palette for the coloured alternatives reaches from a bright ultramarine violet and a sea green over a goldish olive and royal blue to a red-pink tone.
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During her placement at Eley Kishimoto, Anne came to appreciate screen print as a mean of giving garments a unique character. Berlin maps and walls explicitly inspire her applied dessins.
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Material-wise she uses several light silks as chiffon as well as coated cottons and leather as a heavy contrast. The coated fabric is interesting because of its painted look as well as the possibilities it provides in processing, e.g. gluing, with which sharp edges can be made. The grey scales are mainly self-dyed to reach the irregular look of old photographs. The enrolment of this collection was completely lead by Anne‘s feeling for Berlin, this is why the results are her individual idea of what should be worn in Berlin.
We decided that the set to give us the best atmospheric feeling was a worn-down playground. Grafitti on surrounding walls – just as parts of the Berlin wall look today – and the play equipment that still works for young adults reflect their inner conflict that is carried to the outside in their everyday lives. A playground is a place of refuge in adult-ruled big cities between Plattenbau, shopping and museums, built especially for children; which at the same time harbors the scary element of teenagers breaking the place that didn‘t make them happy as children: by spraying and breaking it.
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Our models are multi-national, just like the demographic of Berlin citizens is. They take poses between standing still and being in motion: Their body language is not passive – except for their faces, which are indifferent and indecided.
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Mareen decided to use artificial lighting in an outside situation, and that she would shoot her images in a different way than she usually would: That is why they are playfully crooked and angled, with awkward compositions that look like coincidences – quick moments of our fastdeveloping culture. They represent the colorful opposite of those real life photographs of the past, which were carefully touched and developed one by one. The collection and its representation still gives us an excited but very real feeling, makes us look forward into the future positively and strong.
Š June 2008, Germany Photography
Mareen Fischinger
Fashion & Styling Anne Schartmann Make-up & Hair
Melanie Eppelt
Models
Inez Kreiten Hanna Birmans Laura Härtl Katinka Matuszczyk Sarah Schulz