Dion Lee & Bora Aksu
Final AP exam report including analysis of the two fashion designers, their collections and suggested collections for SS 2015
Final AP exam report Dion Lee & Bora Aksu S/S 2015 written by Margareta Sopkova May 2014
186226@viauc.dk margareta.sopkova@gmail.com Guidance teacher - Maj-Britt Jorgensen 174889@viauc.dk TEKO - class - Thaide 4b student number 186226
Contents 01 03
Acknowledgements Problem scenario
Focus of the report with main
05
question and sub-questions
Dion Lee
Dion’s profile and basic company information
07 Collection preview Previous collection most
significant designs
11 Design DNA Dion’s signature footmarks left
on the designs
13 Specific signatures showed on specific styles 17 Target group The woman in mind 19 Collection plans Precious collection analysis plus
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suggested plan for SS 2015
Timeline
Dion design development
throughout his career
21 Bora Aksu Introduction to Bora Aksu
23 Collection preview Previous collection pick-ups 27 Design DNA Aksu’s footsteps 31 Specific signatures Most common elements used in Aksu’s design-work
33 Target group The woman as a customer 35 Collection plans Previous collection analysis and
suggested plan for SS 2015
37 Timeline Bora’s DNA development in designs
39 41
Company comparison
Differences and similarities
Trend research
Visual presentation of chosen
SS 2015 Trend with description
43 Dion Lee inspiration 45 Colourcard 47 Dion collection Line-up FInal choice for the collection
49 Dion Lee Spec-drawings Technical drawings of the
designs in the Line-up
Visualized inspiration
55 57
Bora Aksu inspiration
Colourcard
59 Bora collection Line-up Final choice for the collection 61 Bora Spec-drawings
Technical drawings of the
designs in the Line-up
Conclusion and reflection
63
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Conclusion
Reflection
67 Bibliography Used sources 71 Appendices 71 Documentation Material and manufacturing
instructures, measurement chart, material charts and detailed drawing of one of the chosen designs
Acknowledgements I owe a debt of gratitude to Teko Design& Business School in Denmark, namely, Lene Pedersen for design support trhroughout the first year of my studies, Solveig Hagel Pedersen for the possibility to be a part of an Erasmus exchange at Winchester School of Art in United Kingdom and Maj-Britt Jorgensen for support throughout the last semester and the guidance for this project. I am particularly in debited to my parents and siblings for the endless encouragements and financial support. Finally, I would also like to thank Winchester School of Art for providing me the opportunity to see the different perspective taught at their school.
With warm regards, Maggie
Problem scenario Focus, structure and methodology of the report
Purpose
Background
Introduction
According to the accessible information, how could the following Spring/Summer 2015 collections of Dion Lee and Bora Aksu look like if created by Margareta Sopkova?
A designer’s portfolio is a visual and the most effective way to communicate designer’s strong features, capabilities and skills. These and other fashion design related techniques and analysis learned through the four semesters at Teko Design & Business School will be the concern of this report.
I have decided to focus on the idea developing process for two world famous fashion designers - Dion Lee and Bora Aksu. Each of them present different origin country, Australia and Turkey, as well as different city their labels are based in New York and London.
•
What is the background of Dion Lee’s and Bora Aksu’s labels and the designers?
•
What does previous collections says about Dion Lees’s and Bora Aksu’s Design DNA?
•
Which of predicted trends for Spring/Summer 2015 would be appropriate as a base and a starting point for both of these labels?
• What techniques could be used to develop the final collection?
Purpose of this project is to create an overview of my skills and apply these on the creative and technical part of the design and production process for the 2 above mentioned fashion labels.
•
3
What materials and trimmings and in what colours are suitable for use in production of the collection?
To present my research, analysis and other visual materials I will use Adobe programmes – Photoshop, InDesign and Illustrator, to achieve a visually brand related layout.
Delimitation
Further, I will select and describe a suitable trend and inspiration used for collection development process unfurled in the sketchbooks. Report also includes working sketches of all 10 outfits designed for each designer and technical documentation and patternsfor one of the 3 sewn styles ( 1 outfit for each designer).
I will not present a sales-book of these collections, but all the information for creating one, will be included in the report, brand leaflets and sketchbooks.
Conclusion
Methodology
Methodology Methodology
Thorough the report and the presentation I will familiarize the reader with Dion Lee’s and Bora Aksu’s Design DNA, in writing as well as in visual comparison of characteristics for each of the designers. I will present each designer’s target group in writing as well as visually.
Methodology
This report will be divided into two subcategories. First, I will answer sub-questions about Dion Lee, then Bora Aksu, making the way towards the answer for the main question and conclusion – final collection line–ups and spec–drawings.
This report is an overview of designer’s responsibilities in the company and should present a level of my proficiencies and skills I have learned at TEKO Design & Business School and could offer to a potential future employee.
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The winner of Woolmark Prize 2013
Dion Lee 5
-Dion Lee-
Sydney Opera House. Fabric was sliced in repetitive ways, twisted or knotted in interlocking patterns, creating an interesting effect with contrasting front and back side of the fabrics. About the company Dion Lee is an Australian, Sydney based womenswear designer. He has launched his self-titled company right after his studies at the Fashion Design Studio at Sydney TAFE. While studying at TAFE, he spent a few weeks on internship with avant-garde designer Tina Kalivas, however this left very minor footprints on Dion’s designwork.
Lee is an amazing business manager that aims to run a non-hierarchical workspace with a high level of respect. However, the designing process is the part he is involved the most. Even in a small business, he has his own business manager. As he says, “That’s the part I need the most help with and want the most help with” explains Lee.
Lee’s designs has a good measure of innovation that at first glance appears as simply tailored garment, however, it is well-calculated architectural technicality. A very few Australian designers made such a big impact on womenswear in fashion industry. Dion’s designs have a decent amount of originality, a feature very rare within Australian designers.
While other designers are trying to determine their characteristic DNA after a long time in business, Lee presented his at the very beginning. Traditional men’s tailoring concepts he turns into sexy, stripedback silhouettes and neoprene and non-woven fabrics inspired by Australian surf culture. Very obvious is an architectural inspiration Dion uses for creating the cut designs are based on.
In 2010 was Dion bestowed by Qantas Spirit of Youth Award in Fashion Design, the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival National Designer Award, the Prix de Marie Claire Award in 2013 and a finalist place in the re-launch of the fabled International Woolmark Prize. Lee’s significant stamp on fashion map was an award from July 2012, International Woolmark Prize for the Australian region. He was inspired by the structure and shadows of
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-Dion Lee-
Fall 2012
One of the first Dion’s collections was a Fall/Winter collection in 2012. This collection was based on transparency and metalic elements. Main colours were pure red, black and white with metalic applications. Already here Lee showed his passion for architectural structure, lines, twisting and technical pattern cutting.
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-Dion Lee-
Spring 2013
Later on, in Spring collection 2013 Lion used plastic 3D shapes to create the effect of architectural structure and contrasting sensation. This collection with neon colours also began an era of cropped tops . Lion uses these in his collections ever since.
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-Dion Lee-
Resort 2014
Architectural technicality and tailoring got even stronger in this collection. Twisting, layering, cutting and combinig lines to interlock. On top of that, Dion used sea-inspired prints evoking the Australian seaside where he came from. Again, black, blue and whites are the core colours of the collection.
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-Dion Lee-
Spring 2014
Leisrue look, knee-length pencil skirt, cropped tops, low V-neck cleavage and bright vivid colours from black, blue, orange to white were the topic for the Spring/Summer collection in 2014. Even though the collection from 2011 and 2014 are 3 years apart, Dion integrates the same structure at his cropped tops and dresses.
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-Dion Lee-
Design
DNA
“What is important for me is differentiating the product through the base fabric, and I think that’s something people look for when they see my collections.” Dion Lee
Product
Physical, mental Dion’s designs are specific by its traditional tailoring techniques cleverly mutated with experimental elements and pattern techniques. One of the Dion’s feature is duality. Modern vs. classic, structured vs. fluid, curvaceous vs. geometric. As a result, Dion’s collections include highly functional cutting-edge garments. Outer silhouette of Lee’s garments usually follows women’s contours. Inner cutting are typically in contrast of symmetry and asymmetry, organic and geometric cuts and shapes. For example, an oval shaped top in combination with a high-waisted skirt with slashed fly. Dion is not afraid to experiment with different lengths and showing off the skin. Short, cropped tops are frequently combined with high-waisted skirts, dresses are sleeveless with low, organic-shaped cleavages.
Culture Colours are pure and fresh, highlighting the tailored elements. Very rare are full-garment prints in blue, ocean inspired, colours. Materials are very luxurious, plain and dull. Lee uses contrasting chiffon, leather, silk or neoprene. Lee’s garments do not show any visible logos or signs. Symbolic/mental Dion aesthetics are technical with interest in cut and construction, technique, fabrics, but at the end, wearer has to feel the ease that makes the body very sexy. This might come down to the Australian lifestyle. 11
Person, Organisation Dion Lee’s customers can expect high quality elegant designs, inspired by American sportswear. Australian origin adds clean sophisticated look and yet, unusually for Austrlian designers, it is innovative. This makes women feel original and unique.
User Functional, Emotional Lee’s clothes are body flattering, with a sophisticated twist around the neck or waist. These garments are more lady-like elegant than a functional utilitarian designs. However, pockets cannot miss on the designs they do not cause a distraction.
-Dion Lee-
Inspiration
Architecture, Sydney’ s Opera house by Utzon, sculptural form, contrast between light and shade, transparent structure, geometrical shapes, twisting.
Sizes
UK- 6-14 Europe- 36 – 44 USA- 2-10 Dion Lee size- XS - XL
Collections
Main Line - 3-4 times a year luxurious RTW collections (A/W, S/S, R, PF) - 15-35 outfits Line II- more accesible, shirting
ICE PR AUD .00 200 UD A 0 0 90. 2,8 4 -4 6 3 XL XS
- Dion Lee main linefrom 450.00 AUD to 2,890.00 AUD
ite
wh
- Dion Lee II affordable line – from 200.00 AUD to 690.00 AUD - Water – swimwear line – from 270.00 AUD to 310.00 AUD - Sale- from 180.00 AUD
Materials
Shops
Styling
Non-woven wools, felt, sheer, mesh, wool, knits, tulle, organza, neoprene, silk, leather, mohair
Department store David Jones – since 2011, Net-a-porter – biggest stockist, www.dionlee.com/shop, www.shopbop. com/dionlee, www.polyvore.com/dion_ lee …
Simple with no jewellery, combined with flats or simple
elegant heels. 12
Colours
Pure colours, mainly white, ocean blue, black or red, outfits in no more than 2-3 colours
-Dion Lee-
Cropped tops
Simple, twisted, constructed from lines, with trousers, skirts or as a swimming suit, Dion loves showing-off the tummy with cropped tops
SIGNATURE 13
-Dion Lee-
Lines
Dion uses combinations of geometric and organic shapes transformed into base construction of tops, dresses or jackets.
ELEMENTS 14
-Dion Lee-
SIGNATURE
Skirts
Skirts are very common in the collection. They are usually slanted in asymmetric way, in a pencil shaped and high-waisted.
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-Dion Lee-
ELEMENTS
Architecture
Architectural element, probably inspired by Sydney Opera House, is present in every collection.
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Target group
Dion’s target group is a successful woman in her 30s, woman with an original style and a realistic attitude. She is grown up, elegant, sophisticated and intellectual. She likes every challenge and unexpected twists in her life as well as in her closet. She is a rigorous thinker, not afraid to show a decent amount of skin on display, the skin she worked hard to get and keep. She is intellectual - searching for genuinely new-thinking designs and innovative people.
She has a great appreciation for naural female form, she does not like any big improvements but knows how to enhance her natural beauty and present it in her advantage. With the feminine, not feminist, thinking she looks for elegancy and ladylike style with a sporty and techno – chic looks as Dion’s are.
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-Dion Lee-
Natural
Sail-like
Minimalistic
Intellectual
Consistent Modern
Healthy
relaxed
Contemporary Sophisticated
Rigorous Innovative
Easy-going
Sculpted
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Outgoing
-Dion Lee-
Collection plans
Here you can see an analysis of Spring collections from 2013 and 2014. Dion creates a designs that has a strong design DNA footmarks and therefore focuses on Core products. These are composed mainly from dresses, skirts and tops. S 2013 Base Core Profile Total Coats/jackets - 6 - 6 Skirts - 7 - 7 Dresses - 14 - 14 Trousers - 3 - 3 Shorts - - - T-shirts/tops - 6 - 6 Shirts - 2 - 2 Knitwear - - -
Spring 2014 Base Core Profile Total Coats/jackets - 5 - 5 Skirts - 10 - 10 Dresses - 13 - 13 Trousers - 5 - 5 Shorts - - - T-shirts/tops - 12 - 12 Shirts - 1 - 1 Knitwear - - - 19
-Dion Lee-
Timeline Dion started with transparent leisure materials and slowly moved towards using cropped tops and neon colours.
Later, he tried to use sea-inspired prints, however, this did not last long and Dion returned back to one-coloured items and his traditional black, white, blue colour palette.
A few pieces from the last collection were almost identical with one of his first collections, turning backwards towards the smart tailoring and architectural structure.
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BoraAksu “The buzz around Bora Aksu is ever growing; it’s easy to see why. “ Vogue
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About the designer Bora is Turkish designer, currently based in London, where he also graduated as a Master from Central Saint Martins in 2002. Since then he was belaud by many magazines, such as The Daily Telegraph, The Guardian or The Independent. His designs were later purchased by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabanna as an inspiration for their own collections. Through a several years, Bora has developed a very specific signature. It is romantic, but always with a hidden darker twist. His demi-couture designs are elegant, intrigued and seductive.
His off-schedule show at London Fashion Week in 2003 was named “one of the top five shows� in The Guardian. Since then, Bora has not stopped presenting his collections in London every season.
Through his career Bora Aksu has developed many collaborations with international brands such as Topshop, Nike, Converse, Anthropologie, Absolute, Koton, Armaggan, Bracher Endem, People Tree or Selfridges. Probably the most significant was, when he was asked to join the judging panel of the WGSN Global Fashion Awards and he also won Designer of the Year at the Elle Style Awards in Turkey. Bora Aksu now offers 4 collections a year, with a main and a hosiery line. 22
Previous collections
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-Bora Aksu-
Spring / Summer 2010 Collection significant for its organic structure and painted tights.
Autumn / Winter 2010 Mini dresses topped with layers of trimmings and macrame structures.
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Previous collections
-Bora Aksu-
Spring / Summer 2012 Collection with contrasting naive and vibrant colours topped with macrame stripes.
Autumn / Winter 2014 Much more simplistic collection then previous ones.
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DN A esign
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-Bora Aksu-
“ My signature style is based upon finding the balance point between contrasts. It’s romantic with a darker twist.” Bora Aksu
Product Physical, symbolic/mental Aksu’s origin was apparent from the beginning. Heavy layering, metres of extravagant fabrics and loads of hand-made decorations. Gorgeous organic animalistic shapes and structure he creates with different fabric stripes, embroidery, textile paint became a significant footmark in Bora’s design-work. The most common item is a short cocktail dress. Outer silhouette usually highlights waist and is suitable for a ladies with long thin legs. Colours Bora uses are very romantic and innocent. From pale white, through light pink, crème, beige and ochre to chrome and vibrant violet, blue and reds, with just enough splash of black to reach the darker contrasting twist.
Materials are usually combined in the most imaginable way. One item concludes shiny silk fabrics covered with contrasting transparent chiffon and embroidered with dull applications made from yarns, trimmings, ribbons or various fabrics itself. Culture Person, Organisation Wearer of this almost artistic creations could be a woman that has an appreciation for good quality fabrics, and not only sees these garments as clothes, but has a gratitude for the long hours spent manufacturing and decorating them. These designs do not only make women feel beautiful, but rather special, sophisticated and a bit girly and baby-doll like. Innocence of these clothes and a bit of arrogance
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added is a perfect combination for every double-faced modern woman that is not fighting her feminine side. User Functional, Emotional It is hard to talk about functionality when it comes to dresses. Beautiful cocktail dresses look stunning, but the question is, how many women could actually afford to step out in such a short, almost provocative in length, dresses and feel comfortable? Well, for less conscious women Bora always presents a few, same way decorated, cosy trousers and dresses combined with painted tights, that usually withdraw the attention from the dresses and create an integrated look. This way the dresses do not seem that “hootchy-kootchy”.
DN A esign
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-Bora Aksu-
Inspiration stylist Leith Clark, no specific muse, but close friends, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, Turkey
E
IC PR
0 0.0 £17 00 00. 5 1 £
Collections 2 times a year ready-to- wear collections- Autumn/Winter and Spring/ Summer. Materials lace, trims, ribbons, leather, tulle, silk, ostrich, chiffon- delicate Colours whole palette of colours, mostly combination of white, pale blue, soft pink and other pastel colours, creating a very romantic look, lemon, lilac, pistachio, olive green, petrol blue, green, gold, black, - innocence Styling colourful tights or headpieces. Prices £170.00 – £1500.00 Shops/markets Asia, China, Italy, Japan, Middle East, Turkey, UK
ra A Bo
“ There is always a sporty element to my clothes because I love contrasting ideas.” Sizes not stated Keywords nostalgic, tomboy, poetic, ribbons, laces, patchwork, childhood memories, traditional, innocence, juxtaposing, luxe, delicate, beautifully balanced, appliques, whimsical, botanical, romance, swirling, bows, tulle, naivity, warrior, animalistic, Marie Antoinette x Sweeney Todd, spider web, layers, frills, flounces
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ksu
Specific signatures
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-Bora Aksu-
The most obvious and significant sign on Bora’s designs is the structure created with ribbons, fabrics or trimmings. These are sewn into symmetrical organic shapes. Bora rarely creates trousers or jackets, his collectios are mainly based on a cocktail dress without sleeves.
Length of the dresses usually varies from mini to maxi. Most common though is above knee or knee length. Very often is a combination of dress and structured or painted tights. Neckline is very often decorated with a bow-knot, rounded collar or frills.
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Target group Bora’s woman in mind
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-Bora Aksu-
“She is somewhat of a warrior and hangs around in a pack- but that does not mean she is intimidating.” Bora Aksu Aksu’s woman in mind is probably a nostalgic, poetic and innocent tomboy. She liked to play with a baby dollhouse when being young and this habit also reflected in her late adolescence. Her girly looks are partly representing innocence, partly, sophistication and partly a warrior that does not want to fit in the adult life. Bora’s ideal woman is a grown-up but confused girl, lost between innocence and arrogance. She is refined, yet girly, she is exceptional and baby-doll like. This woman is self-confident dreamer, not conscious about her figure, happy to show off her thin waist or long legs in a pair of tights.
“She defines beauty in her own way. Tori Amos captures this for me.” Bora Aksu 34
Table of content
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-Bora Aksu-
SS 2010 BASE CORE PROFILE Coats - 7 - Skirts - 5 - Dresses - 20 - Trousers - 3 - Shorts - - - T-shirts - 2 - Shirts - 6 - Knitwear - - -
TOTAL 7 5 20 3 2 6 -
Bora’s ready-to-wear collections are based upon core products where it is easy to see they are made by him. Most occuring item is the cocktail dress and creates the essential part
SS 2011 BASE CORE PROFILE Coats - 2 - Skirts - 2 - Dresses - 21 - Trousers - 5 - Shorts - - - T-shirts - 1 - Shirts - 6 - Knitwear - - - SS2012 BASE CORE PROFILE Coats - 2 - Skirts - 6 - Dresses - 21 - Trousers - 2 - Shorts - 1 - T-shirts - 2 - Shirts - 7 - Knitwear - - -
TOTAL 2 6 21 2 1 2 7 -
of the collections. Ocassionally skirt with a shirt can be found, but it is almost impossible to recognise the difference between a dress and two-itemed outfit.
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TOTAL 2 2 21 5 1 6 -
Timeline
Overall evolving of Bora’s designs
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-Bora Aksu-
Bora started with almost nomad designs. They were layered, utilitarian and based on earthy colours.
Signs of an innocence, tomboy and girly designs appeared only several years later as well as the cocktail dress and simple
Two years later, Bora introduced the structural element and has not left it since. Coloured tights also played essential role.
Only few years ago, Aksu used very vivid colours for creating the structure in contrast to the innocence.
Last two collections became less and less structured. Bora started simplifying, however kept the technicality and turkish
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Dion Lee
-Dion Lee-
Company
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Bora Aksu
-Bora Aksu-
Comparison
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Trend research Description This trend emerges in China as a head-to-toe white statement. It is beautifully tailored and futuristic. As a Dion’s collections it is sport-inspired, single coloured architectural shaded or paired with a soft tonal tints. Even though Bora’s heading is towards this trend, it is still quite distinctive. For his collection I would like to use whites in combination with tints of grey and blue and architectural structure in cut of white leather layers with rounded cut-outs. For Dion, this trend will not change his inspiration a lot, therefore the architectural element is used in terms of cuttings. It is calmed, simplified, wrapped, relaxed, neutral, minimalistic and technical. Colours white, transparent pastels, faded, tinted grey, in contrast with vibrant palette, shadow illusion, tinted neutrals Fabrics transparent, silk, organza, lightweight pure polyester blends, cottons Treatments Compact weaves, technical structure, interesting surface, volume Inspiration Modern, complex cuts, clear, sharp, twisted and curved structures, 3dimensional constructions, simple, almost seamless, in blocks Accessories As little accessories as possible, clothes should be the main accessory.
Opacity
Neutral
Architectural
Simplicity 41
Geommetry
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Inspiration
Dion Lee’s inspiration for SS2015 collection
Inspirationf for Dion Lee’s collection 2015 came from various architectural efragments. Structural form of buildings, details of interior designs, stairs and even art pieces were the most influental inspiration for creating the summer collection. These elements have one thing in common. It is its architecural structure hand in hand with geometry and clean, pure shapes. Structure of individual parts are a great muse for fashion use. Transformed into cut, cut-outs, material twisting and folding generates an astonishing base for creating a pure, technical lines in the designs.
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5 colours in use for the collection of“Layered whites”.
Colourcard
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Royal blue Pantone 19-3955 TPX
Blanc de blanc Pantone 11-4800 TPX
Gardenia Pantone 11-0604 TPX Ashes of roses Pantone 15-0703 TPX 46
Line - up
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Line - up
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Spec-drawings
Style no.1 Description Leather top with a zipper at the back
Style no.2 Description Skirt with a front slit and hidden zipper at the back
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Style no.3 Description Leather top in combination with a relaxed-cut dress
Spec-drawings
Style no.4 Description Dress combined with a sport bra and chiffon twisted front
Style no.5 Description Blouse with a leather belt going in and out of the blouse at CF and CB
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Style no.6 Description Skirt with a slashed slit
Spec-drawings
Style no.7 Description Blouse with a slit opening at the elbow, leather yoke and buttons at the front
Style no.8 Description Pencil skirt with side slit and hidden zipper at the back
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Style no.9 Description Dress with a transparent hemline and slit at the back
Spec-drawings
Style no.10 Description Dress with an open back and transparent top
Style no.11 Description Blouse with a leather yoke
Style no.12 Description Skirt with a side slits and open back waistband
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Spec-drawings
Style no.13 Description Chiffon blouse in combination with leather striped top
Style no.14 Description Skirt with a front slit and twisted pattern
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Style no.15 Description Dress with a slashed slit binded with a leather stripe
Spec-drawings
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Inspiration
Bora Aksu’s inspiration for SS2015 collection
For the Bora Aksu’s collection SS 2015 I was looking for a combination of simplified dresses and structural components evolving through the collection. I have chosen the inspiration to be used on the structure of materials. As this collection should be compatible with the same trend as Dion Lee’s I have decided to start simple and continuously include decorational and structural elements into the designs. I started with contour inspiration from Hagia
Sofia representing turkish architecture. I took shapes of the pillars, windows and traditional decorations. I combined these with the usual Bora’s inspiration from vintage dresses of schoolgirls and house-hold’s clothing from romatism. I traced forms and structure not only from architecture, but spider web, sweet turkish delights and turkish floor tiles and decorational fabric motifs. For more inspirational pictures please look into Bora Aksu’s sketchbook.
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Colourcard
Conclusion
5 colours in use for the collection of“Layered whites”.
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Niagara Pantone 17-4123 TPX Gull Pantone 17-3802 TPX
Blanc de blanc Pantone 11-4800 TPX Gardenia Pantone 11-0604 TPX Ashes of roses Pantone 15-0703 TPX 58
Line - up
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Line - up
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Spec-drawings
Style no.1 Description Straight dress covered with chiffon with a leather arms and belt
Style no.2 Description Dress with a leather vest and chiffon skirt underneath
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Style no.3 Description Dress with a cropped top with puffed sleeves and pencil skirt
Spec-drawings
Style no.4 Description Simple cut jacket with a zipper at the front
Style no.5 Description Dress with a leather sleeves and yoke
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Style no.6 Description Transparent blouse with a3/4 sleeves and button fastening
Spec-drawings
Style no.7 Description Skirt with a gathered chiffon and perforated leather
Style no.8
Style no.9
Description Description Dress with a leather belt and perforated leather Dres with a gathered chiffon at the front at the bottom
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Spec-drawings
Style no.10
Style no.11
Description Dress with a perforated leather over the decorational fabric and cropped top
Description Dress in double layer of pencil skirt and half a circle skirt 64
Style no.12 Description Long dress with a perforated leather belt and chiffon gathered at the front
Overall summary of the report, answers to the questions
Conclusion 65
Analysis of the both designers shows a very distintive design focus and techniques. Bora Aksu shows movements towards a more simplified dresses with focus on fabric structure. Dion Lee’s tendency is to repeat architectural elements and tailored cuts.
structural designs. I achieved this trhought the surface change of the leather and themed fabrics. Collection evolves from pale white to grey and blue tints. Even though the trend is not visible until the last piece of collection, I think this was a substantive step linked back to previous Bora’s ready-to-wear collection.
After the trend research, company comparison and analysis of the direction brands are heading to, I decided to work with the trend of “ Layered whites”. This trend is suitable for layers of various materials, from stiff, to soft and transparent.
Working sketches shows all of the 10 outfits for each designers (15 style for Dion Lee and 12 for Bora Aksu) composed mainly from dresses and skirts as in previous collections. If the collections were made in bigger scale, I would propose to enrich it with several jackets or trousers, nevertheless keeping the base between dresses and skirts.
For Dion Lee I decided to experiment with combinations of twisted cropped tops, shirts and dresses. I aimed for forming Dion’s DNA in the congeneric way, yet, having the trend in mind, drifitng the collection forward. I used material as chiffon, leather, silk or cotton in tints of whites, grey and royal blue.
The trend of “Layered whites” is easily recognizable at the final sewn styles in white colours. Dion’s shows the inspiration from architectural lines and for Bora I have chosen an outfit that is half way through the collection. This style show not only fragments of the trend but also an element of Bora’s DNA. Perforated leather is combined with decorated material underneath.
Even though Bora Aksu shows onset towards an ease in his designs, it is quite a challenge to create minimalistic collection with a structural sections or a darker twist. As an inspiration from previous collections I started with a very minimalistic white design slowly transforming into more complicated
Both collections use leather, chiffon, silk or cotton blends and are harmonised in the palette of whites and tints of grey and blue.
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Reflection
What have I learned throughout the process of making this report
While working on this report I came across a lot of inspirational design elements that are worth thinking about. I enjoyed idea devoloping process, however I had troubles finding the right balance between the designers and the chosen trend.
a full 40 outfit collection, that would start in a very simplistic way and gradually incorporate structural layers, finished with 4-5 layers of applications in an architectural patterns.
This was mainly the case of Bora Aksu. His designs are very structural and layered with different materials and techniques. Naive colours contradicting with vibrant pallete applications are difficult to re-create following one of the trends. However, I have spotted a simplicity influenting the most recent collections and combined this with the trend of Layered Whites. I think I included variety of designs evolving from the trend to Bora’s DNA. I can imagine
I have found layout part very inspiring for me. I consider it the right tool for the finishing touches and professionaI impression.I strengthened my technical skills and learned how to work with Adobe InDesign. The two months given for the practical exam part were a very important practise of my time management skills. I found and confirmed myself strengths and weaknesses that I am enthusiastic to improve the next time.
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Bibliography
Sources used for making the report
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www.wgsn.com American fashion, Charlie Scheips, Diane von Furstenberg, Assouline Publishing, February 2012 www.pinterest.com http://www.fashiontrendsetter.com/content/fashion_ trends.html
ury/dion-lee-is-the-boy-wonder-of-australian-fashion/story-e6frg8io-1226658581700 http://www.vogue.com.au/people/designers/dion+lee,31 http://www.wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2014/review/dion-lee http://www.woolmarkprize.com/profile/dion-lee/
Dion Lee
Bora Aksu
Australian Fashion Unstitched The Last 60 Years, Bonnie English, Griffith University, QueenslandLiliana Pomazan, May 2010
www.boraaksu.com
www.dionlee.com
http://nymag.com/thecut/fashion/designers/bora-aksu/
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/designerdirectory/ DLEE/seasons/
https://www.wolfandbadger.com/shop/designers/bora-aksu/
http://www.vogue.com.au/people/designers/dion+lee,31
http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=57
http://www.theaustralian.com.au/executive-living/lux-
http://nymag.com/thecut/fashion/designers/bora-aksu/
http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/bora-aksu
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Appendices
Technical documentation Material and manufacturing instructures, measurement chart, material charts, technical and detail drawing
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written by Margareta Sopkova TEKO Design & Business School Via University College class - Thaide 4b 186226@viauc.dk margareta.sopkova@gmail.com Guidance teacher - Maj-Britt Jorgensen 174889@viauc.dk May 2014
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Written by Margareta Sopkova 77