Final ba exam report margareta sopkova by Margaréta Sopková

photo: Ester Šabíková

DUMED

for Fashtronics by Margareta Sopkova 186226@via.dk margareta.sopkova@gmail.dk http://margaretasopkova.wix.com/portfolio

Final BA exam fashion design - IDde 7a 814 Number of typing units : 92,943

VIA DESIGN (TEKO), Denmark guidance teacher : Lene Pedersen 20th of November 2015

photo: Ester Šabíková

ABSTRACT

The fast progress of technology compliments constantly evolving aesthetics of fashion. In the past it was almost impossible to imagine combining the two, as fashion requires to be comfortable and portable, while on the other hand electronics required a lot of wiring or a heavy source of energy. Nowadays, these traits are being minimalized and fashion is becoming more accepting and therefore the strict line in between these two fields is blurred and easy to cross. Womenswear collection for Autumn Winter 2016 is deriving from the fast pace of both fields. Collection is using electronics in functional or embellishing way, sustaining the main purpose of garments, which is simply to be able to be worn and washed. Inspiration and motivation behind the whole collection is to pay tribute to inventors who were tragically destined to death by their own inventions. Collection expresses inventors’ falls through magnetism and sensors that reflects their tragedy and courage at the same time. Iron powder adds to the effect of falling and inventions and electronics in their beginning. Wearer is an androgynous woman that is unique and opinionated, just like these inventors were. As this collection is part of a concept for a platform where basic electronics and experiments merging fashion and technology would be shown, report does not only talk about the development of the collection, but creates an introduction, somewhat a “library” to wearable electronics. 3 garments that are produced are analyzed deeper and explained not only in choice of fabrics and details, but also in electronics and steps made during the designing of circuits. Platform where collection named “Dúmed” and electronics come together is called Fashtronics. Fashtronics is a concept for a studio and an online platform that merges together fashion and electronics, while offering bi-annual collection, workshops in electronics and sewing as well as online tutorials for individuals learning from home. In this report you can read facts and predictions underlining importance of merging different fields together to create desired innovation required by society and its needs.

TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Introduction...................................................................................................................1 1.1 Topic/purpose...................................................................................................1 1.2 Research question ............................................................................................2 1.3 Sub-questions.....................................................................................................2 2. Definition of concepts....................................................................................................3 3. Theory and methodology...............................................................................................4

3.1. Theory, methodology and empirical methods.................................................4 3.2. Delimitation......................................................................................................5

4. Discussion, analysis and argumentation........................................................................5 4.1. Are current trend-forecasting predicting an urge of merging fashison and other fields?...................................................................................................5 4.1.2. Trend - techno-chic, from past to future.............................................5 4.2. What is a basic knowledge a designer should acquire when working with wearable electronics? ...................................................................................7 4.2.1 Basic electronics...................................................................................7 4.2.2 Conductive materials...........................................................................7 4.2.3. Switches...............................................................................................8 4.2.4. Actuators.............................................................................................8 4.2.5. Batteries...............................................................................................8 4.2.6. E-textile toolkits...................................................................................8 4.2.6. Wireless................................................................................................9 4.2.7 Wearable electronics characteristics.....................................................9 5. Argumentation and reasoning ...................................................................................11 5.3. How to create a collection using wearable electronics?.................................11 5.3.1. Inspiration........................................................................................11 5.3.2. Sketchbook.......................................................................................15 5.3.3. Colourcard ......................................................................................19 5.3.4. Material card ...................................................................................19 5.3.4.1 Other non-fabric materials...................................................19 5.3.5. Line-up..............................................................................................21 5.3.6. Working sketches...............................................................................23 5.3.7. Washing instruction..........................................................................27

5.3.8. Name of the collection ..................................................................27 5.3.9. Target group....................................................................................29

5.4. What is important to know when constructing electronics for designed collection of Fashtronics ...........................................................................31 5.4.1. Voltage..............................................................................................31 5.4.2. Current.............................................................................................31 5.4.3. Circuits ............................................................................................32 5.4.4. Diodes...............................................................................................32 5.4.5. Transistors........................................................................................33 5.4.6. Mercury tilt switch............................................................................33 5.4.7. Energy source...................................................................................33 5.4.8. Magnetism ......................................................................................33 5.4.8.1 Permanent magnets.............................................................33 5.4.8.2. Electromagnets...................................................................33 5.4.9. Analog and digital circuits...............................................................34 5.4.10. PWM.............................................................................................34 5.4.11. Transducers....................................................................................34 5.4.12. Arduino...........................................................................................35 5.4.12.1 Arduino Library.................................................................35 5.4.12.2. Flora..................................................................................36 5.4.12.3 LSM303DHLC.................................................................36 5.412.4. LSM9DS0.........................................................................37 5.5 How were the circuits created and what issues occured during development? 5.5.1. Designing electromagnet........................................................39 5.5.2. Designing tilt circuit .............................................................41 5.5.3. Designing Flora circuit..........................................................43 5.5.4. Explanation of final programming conde.............................45 5.5.5. Possible reasons for circuits not working................................49 5.6. How to present the collection when considering it as a part of a long-term fashion brand focusing on incorporating electronics into garments?........51 5.6.1. Online platform.....................................................................51 5.6.2. Competitors............................................................................53 5.6.2.1. Fashion designers......................................................53 5.6.2.2. Engineering studios...................................................55 6. Conclusion..................................................................................................................57 7. Reflection.....................................................................................................................59 8. Bibliography.................................................................................................................61 9. List of appendices .....................................................................................................63 10. Contacts..................................................................................................................65

1. INTRODUCTION 1.1 Topic and purpose Originating from the developing fashion industry and the world surrounding it, it is apparent that fashion on its own is not enough anymore. Fabric, pattern and structure possibilities are numerous but also used in various ways by various designers. One of the options that arise is to combine different fields.

mobile and as technology integrated fashions wirelessly connect garments to remote systems, it is possible to interlink the two aspects to extend both their own functionality and technologyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reach into fashion.

Considering different options, technology and electronics are a great source for innovative ideas and can create a unique, functional as well as aesthetic aspect when merged with fashion.

Technology can inspire new types of high-tech textiles, weaving and knitting techniques or other ways of fabric production. Incorporating electronics in garments for functional or even statement purposes might be an interesting way to enhance already existing textiles.

Considering that garments are by nature portable, the fact that technology is becoming more

Customers become included in the design and this interactivity can increase their interest in

garments. Wearer is no longer a passive receiver but an active technological user. Technology adjusts its components for machinery as well as for wearables. Electronic fibers capable of conducting electrical impulses are a great base for constructing a washable, functional, robust garment with conductors, circuits, chips and sensors that initiate an electronic motion, sound or light. Bearing in mind, the rapid development of fashion as well as technology, designers look for new options of innovations. Technology is one of the fields that designers started mixing and matching with their collections, but has not yet explored its entire extent. With use of technology most of the designs become odd and impractical. Therefore this report focuses on balancing the two rather than focusing solely on showcasing either technology or design.

1.2.Research question How to create a womenswear collection inspired by technology and wearable electronics, what are the challenges and the final outcome of this combination and how could the collection be introduced to customers in an appealing way, taking into consideration that the electronics are used as an inspiration for a brand with bi-annual collection and not only this particular collection?

1.3.Sub-questions 1.3.1. Are current trend forecastings predicting urge of merging fashion and other fields? Trend forecasting is an important source of designersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; inspiration. Research and relation to predictions that fashion should follow is made to consider the developed collection as a valuable reflection of human needs. 1.3.2. What is a basic knowledge a designer should acquire when working with wearable electronics? As an initial preparation for working with electronics and technology it is crucial to have a basic knowledge of available electronics and options for using it. As the collections are planned to continue on biannual basis, research is not focused on one category only, but rather to provide an overview of the current technology possibilities. 1.3.3. How to create this collection using wearable electronics?

It is important to follow research and inspiration in order to create a unique collection. This report shows and describes the processes during the development of this particular collection. Processes include research in technology and electronics, moodboards guiding a designer through the process, fabric swatches, colourcards, sketching, collages, target group and finally, a collection line up. The focus of the collection is mainly on designing part, not engineering and therefore its focused more on a balance between the two, rather than showcasing new technologies. 1.3.4. What is important to know when constructing electronics for designed collection of Fashtronics? Constructing whole collection that uses electronics, it is important to see deeper into the terms used in electronics. More complex circuits cannot rely only on simple schemes of switch, source and actuator. Greater understanding of some terms may prevent injuries and accidents caused by incorrectly 2

connected or badly insulated circuits. 1.3.5. How were the circuits created and what issues occured during development? This question discusses what factors a designer should be aware of when combining fashion and technology. As electronics are just being adjusted to fashion requirements nowadays and factors like mobility, lightweight and even electronics being washable is still an issue, it is important for a designer to consider these. 1.5 How to present the collection when considering it as a part of a long-term fashion brand focusing on incorporating electronics into garments? As the collection might be appealing only to a very specific group of people, this report also discusses an option of using an online platform as a form of launching and presenting the collection. Electronics make garments more interactive and so should be the presentation of these garments and the collection.

3. THEORY AND METHODOLOGY

3.1. .Theory, methodology and empirical methods This report uses theories based on available wearable electronics and combines these with inspiration intuitively transformed into garments. Every collection starts with a research and so does this report and collection. Research methods mostly focus on online investigation of electronics. Portals used for inspiration and research are mainly instructables. com, kobakant.at and learn. adafruit.com. Instructables.com demonstrate various DIY projects not only with electronics, while kobakant.at contributes with experiments more focused on electronics and their partial

construction by use of conductive materials meant for clothing rather than classic wire circuits. Adafruitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website in collaboration with Becky Stern posts various videos on how to start with their electronic boards such as Lilypad, Flora or Gemma and how to connect these with sensors and actuators as well as how to program it with use of a computer. Collages, draping and sketches deriving from inspiration are then combined with the techniques learned online. Further research is made with Wearable electronics book written by Kate Hartman and consulted with Basanth

Balram, an ROV engineer currently working near Doha, Qatar. Research is followed by fabric experiments, prototyping and sketching circuits with focus on placement of electronic parts into the garments. Garments are sewn and visualized with technical drawings and line-up with material swatches. Research, moodboards, sketches and the design process is explained in the report and visualized in a separate sketchbook. Analysis of market as well as the developed collection shows who is the target group and what is the best way of presentation.

tions are not included. Electronic side of the collection is explained in terms that might be used as a base for creating soft circuit,

however does not talk about exact measuring and calculations used when connecting components of these circuits together.

3.2. Delimitation Since the collection is meant to be unique and adjustable instead of being produced in manufactories, patterns and price calcula-

4. DISCUSSION, ANALYSIS AND ARGUMENTATION

4.1. Are current trend-forecasting predicting an urge of merging fashion and other fields?

4.1.2. Trend - techno chic In fashion, designers often have to know what consumers want to wear before they do. Technology offers us to be interactive with fashion when buying, when trying on (digital fitting rooms) or designing on our own, but interactivity within the garment is somehow suppressed although that’s what many of customers are looking for. Whereas in the past, new technologies determined the fashion trends, recently it might be changing and technology starts to rely on fashion making it more popularized. For example Google glass, not many people would wear these technical glasses if they were not presented as “fashionable”. As the “geek” style statement becomes more popular, so does incorporating nerdy technical details into garments.

Lack of electronics in currently available clothing might be just the right area to look into to fill a gap in the market. One of the biggest trends that seem to be developing quite quickly is wearable technology. These innovations merges two different fields and start to define both what is fashionable and technology that is incorporated in to the garments. Not innovations regarding watches, wristbands, or shoes. Technology that spreads further than that and merges two different fields. Technology in materials, fabrics, machinery like 3D printing, laser or other electronics that can be used not just to create a garment but also be used directly within the fabric and create an effect when a garment is worn.

Nowadays, electronics in fashion are becoming widely used in sportswear, to track vital signs, produce alarms in emergencies, charge electronic devices or to produce heat when worn. Within ready-to-wear on runway collections it is unfortunately only used to enhance collections with an effect to make fashion show more memorable and appealing. Otherwise designs incorporating electronics become only not wearable form of art and expression through showpieces. Conferences like Smart Fabrics & Wearable Technology, markets like The Future of Smart Fabrics: Market and Technology Forecast to 2021 and others clearly show an urge of fashion to wake up and catch up with technology that has been outrunning fashion for a several years now.

4.2. What is a basic knowledge a designer should acquire when working with wearable electronics? 4.2.1. Electronics in general Electronics and electrics is the movement of charge or electrons or electrical charge. An atom consists of several sub atomic particles like electrons, protons and neutrons. Electrons carry a negative charge, protons a positive charge. A charge is measured in coulombs and an electron carries 1.6 x 10-19 C. A charge is always conserved, that is, it canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be created or destroyed, however it can be neutralised, meaning that you can combine two opposite charges to make it a net neutral charge or you can split a neutral charge to form opposite charges. Circuits A basic circuit requires a power source (battery), a load(LED light) and a conductor(conductive thread/fabric/foil/wire). These can be drawn into a circuit diagram, which is a clear, concise representation of the components and connections made within a circuit.

Short circuits Short circuit is a closed loop of electricity that has a power source but no load. In garment this can very often happen when conductive threads are not isolated properly and cross at some place. To prevent this, often insulators are used, in soft circuits short circuits are usually prevented by stitching over and under a layer of fabric. Ohmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s law V=IxR (Voltage is equal to current times resistance)

Series Components like LED are connected in a row, and electricity flows through one into another one. Parallel Components are side by side, taking energy separately through connection to power and ground. Polarity Certain electronic components have predetermined polarity, and its necessary to connect them in a correct way. This is polarity

Resistor Resistors is a component that resists the flow of electricity. It can be used in a circuit to use up extra electricity that is not needed in the load. Resistors are marked with colours which helps to indicate their resistance and tolerance.

Breadboard Breadboard is a board used before soldering circuits to test the correct connections. Connection are possible to make in series or in parallel.

4.2.2. Conductive materials Conductive materials are materials that are able to allow energy to flow through. Most common conductive material in soft circuits is conductive thread, which is usually made off silver or stainless steel, can be 2. 3 or 4 ply and has a higher resistance than a wire. Conductive material comes in a bobbin and therefore is easily used for sewing with machine. It easily unravels and entangles therefore it is more complicated to use for sewing than a regular thread.

Other conductive materials include conductive yarn, velostat, felt, ribbon, foil or fabric tape. Conductive can also be paint, or a marker but circuits using these might be less stable after use and washing. Everyday stuff like zipper, hook and eye, Velcro, can also be conductive and used as a switch in the circuit.

Sensors like small force-sensing resistor, flex sensor and conductive rubber band are also suitable for use in garments.

More advanced sensors include proximity sensor, hearth rate sensor, light, colour or sounds sensor. There are many sensors that can be used or made out of ordinary objects of daily use (yarn pompom, danish crown slide switch, balloon sensor.)

4.2.3. Switches

To prevent short circuits it is important to insulate two thread by a layer of fabric when stitching. Ends and knots open easily, good method to keep the thread in place is to use a drop of a glue or nailpolish. Conductive fabric is a small piece of a fabric that can be made in a woven, knitted or plated form. It can be made in different weight, thickness, stretch. Colour is usually silver or copper, there are very few fabrics in other colours, however fabrics like organza might be conductive too. Conductive fabric can also be adhesive.

Switch usually has two terminals. When the switch is off, connection is open, when connection closes, circuit is on. Except traditional toggle, tactile or tilt switches, there are many that can be created handmade (few of these you can see in the sketchbook). Sandwich switch layers up fabric and conductive material with a fabric piece separating two conductive pieces of fabric. When the top fabric layer is pressed, materials in the middle connect through the hole and close the circuit. Similar method is used for a contact or pinch switch, where two pieces of conductive fabric is connect when pinched or pressed against each other.

4.2.4. Actuators Most basic actuators are LED lights. These were already widely used in fashion with different sensors initiating the light. Fiber optics are one step ahead of LED lights and instead of â&#x20AC;&#x153;justâ&#x20AC;? light, can transmit this light through transparent fibers.

Disadvantage of these, compared to LEDs is a very high price and low accessibility for individuals. Advantage is of course the beautiful play of light.

Batteries need to be taken out of the circuit/case and therefore should be placed on accessible place. Batteries are best hidden in a pocket or other alternative that does not disturb the aesthetics of a garment.

4.2.6. E-textile toolkits Other light actuator might be electroluminescent materials.

To construct more complex circuits, developers in Arduino created microboards that should make wearable electronics easier and more used.

Sound like buzzers, tones and audio files played through speakers might be more difficult when it comes to clothing (except speakers in a hoodie), Third actuator is motion, initiated by servosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, gearhead or micromotors, Last use of electronics might be a change of temperature.

4.2.5. Batteries There are different battery holders for different types of batteries. Using these, batteries can be held safe hidden inside the garment. Batteries used for wearables can be rechargeable or non- rechargeable. Batteries are the most important component of the circuit to think off when washing the garment.

First microboard named LilyPad was specifically intended for integration with non-traditional conductive mterials. LilyPad has many advantages for wearables, its easily sewable, round, thin and purple, so that it can be worn even on the surface, not just hidden inside. It has several modules, LilyPad Arduino USB, or LilyPad Simple Snap, various switches like a light, temperature or accelerometer sensor, and actuators like a buzzer, motor or a LED lights. It comes with a battery holder, easily connectable to the board.

Very similarly, Flora created by Adafruit, is a younger sister to LilyPad. Flora offers more exciting selection of modules which can be programmed with Arduino program. Flora is more advanced and has sensors like accelerometer , gyroscope, colour or even GPS sensor and actuators like Smart NeoPixels. Both of these microcontrollers are programmable in Arduino IDE program by electronics coding. Arduino IDE has its own library making it easier to adjust programming to each sensor and preferred settings.

4.2.7 Wireless When using of one of the microcontrollers, there is also possibility to use wireless connection like Bluetooth, XBee or WiFi as a switch or actuator. With these, using GPS you have at home, or transferring sounds while on the go, might not be that far in the fiture.

4.2.8 Making electronics wearable These are the most important aspects to look for when creating wearable electronics:

- comfort of the wearer- human body is dynamic and curvy, it is important to place all electronics at the areas will not constrain from movement or cause an injury. Weight of the electronics added to the garment is just as important for the mobility as the size and position. - durability â&#x20AC;&#x201C; electronics need to be placed carefully, not to be

continually tugged or bent. - insulation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; wrong insulation might cause short circuits, or worse, an injury by electrical power - aesthetics â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it is important to keep in mind that creating soft circuits is still meant for clothing, and therefore it needs to be hidden or aesthetically appealing.

5. ARGUMENTATION AND REASONING

5.3. How to create a collection using wearable electronics 5.3.1 Inspiration Deciding on incorporating electronics into garments first, it was difficult to choose an inspiration that would be connected with fashion and technology at the same time and that could be used as a starting point for creating a collection. Starting research in electronics showed that the possibilities are countless and the number of ways when using electronics in garments is increasing every day. More often used are LED lights, energy powered by solar system, using fiber optic fibers, various soft switches made with conductive stainless steel thread or conductive fabric. These are becoming almost basics for wearable electronics. But what inspiration could connect the best with them? Starting with designers working with technology, going back in time to artists, through contemporary to modern kinetic and interactive art, I came across innovators and inventors that were not as successful or praised for their inventions as they would

truly deserve. Even though they were not as successful as inventors whose inventions we use daily, they inspired younger generation of inventors to follow through and finish off their designs to a functional gadget. Inventors like Thomas Midgley, Franz Reichelt or Ismail ibn Hammad al Jawhri would be forgotten if it was not for their tragic end.

Some were destined by coincidence, some by lack of knowledge in chosen field. Doomed by their own inventions they also became an inspiration for womenswear collection Autumn / Winter 2016. Thought behind this inspiration is to accommodate these inventorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; courage and experiment with something that is 11

not a forte or well-reviewed area, and that is, merging electronics and fashion. Collection pays tribute to Thomas Midgley who broke a leg and being an inventor he tried to improve his condition by developing a pulley system to help him lift and move around the bed. This did not work out well since he got entangled in the ropes of his own bed.

William Bullock invented rotary printing press in 1863, but when installing he kicked a driving belt onto a pulley. His leg got caught and Bullock died several days later when he developed gangrene in the leg. Alexander Bogdanov experimented with blood transfusion, however its use was rather selfish than

for medical purposes. Effort to achieve eternal youth or at least rejuvenation brought him immediate death after he was injected with blood that carried malaria, tuberculosis and was also a different blood type than of his own. Already in 10th century there were attempts to construct something to help humans get off the ground, or under the water. Author of Arab dictionary Abu Nasr Isma’il ibn Hammad al Jawhri leapt from the roof of a mosque with faith in his construction of wings made out of wood. Attempts to fly were coming and going until again in 1912 Franz Reichelt “The Flying Tailor”, jumped off the Eiffel Tower with parachute sewn from a heavy woolen fabric. The result of falling on an icy ground is foreseeable.

On the other hand, Horace Lawson Hunley decided to take a trip underwater. This marine engineer developed hand-powered submarine. On the first try eight members were killed when vessel sank. On second attempt Lawson joined the crew but vessel sank again and killed 15 people including himself. Wan Hu, in 1232, by attaching 47 gunpowder-filled rockets to a simple chair, lit by 47 servants, he tried to fly to the Moon. After an enormous bang neither chair nor Wan Hu was found, which only left servants wondering whether Wan was able to make it all the way to the Moon. More of these “doomed” inventors include Valerian Abakovsky ( a propeller-driver rail car), Jean-Francoise Pilatre de Rozier ( hot air balloon), Otto Lilienthal (glider), Aurel Vlaicu (first metal plane), Henri Smolinski (flying car),

Karel Soucek ( shock absorbent barrel) and not least Marie Curie and Titanic designer Thomas Andrews. Their stories are an inspiration for those who dream big. The life of an inventor is not an easy one. It starts with coming up with a good idea that never thought off before and a product, which solves some sort of problem. Initial idea follows with designing and engineering that transforms concept into a reality. It does not end here though and inventor is left with convincing society of importance of his device/creation. This process reminds in many ways of a life of a designer, a fashion designer that is only known if he is able to keep up with constantly changing trends, while incorporating an innovative solutions in printing, knitting, embroidery or other aspects of garment making.

Bizarre accidents of these inventors have taken the inspirational process of DĂşmed collection to past centuries, to sepia colored photos, to centuries when electronics were somewhat sci-fi stories of Jules Verne. It inspired not only one collection, but a whole concept for a platform where experiments with simple electronics would be shown and taught. Starting of with electronics, it is important to develop some sort of database, which would start off with simple electronics, bundling up with more and more complicated technologies. Looking for effects electronics can do with garments, it was apparent the choice is amongst 5 effects. These effects are motion, light, sound, heat or electronics as a decoration. Garments that the collection aims for are not showpieces, but not purely functional either.

Collection looks for a balance in between the two, to stay wearable, to be creative on its own, but to enhance the look or use of the garment by use of electronics. To create a collection that uses electronics it is important to choose only several designs that would use them, or to make them less obvious so that collection would not become too complex and â&#x20AC;&#x153;heavyâ&#x20AC;? for a viewer. This led to choosing magnets as the theme to be used. Magnets give an opportunity to spread various effects through the collection. Starting with permanent magnets, the design continued with electromagnets all the way to electromagnets that use microcontroller printed circuit boards to program it to turn on or off at different times.

This way collection becomes not only about the electronics, but about designs itself as well.

There are many ways of incorporating the use of magnets in daily life which is unknown to most of us. Most common use are speakers, which convert electrical energy into sound energy, credit cards with magnetic chip, MRI and Maglev trains, where magnets are used on the tracks on which the train floats by repulsion force of the magnets. Magnets can be used to sort out magnetic substances from the scrap, on TV screens, computer screens, telephones, compasses, tape recorders, cranes or refrigerators. Magnets are very effective for magnet therapy to relieve pain without any use of medicines. Stimulating the nerves and increasing blood circulation, magnets could become a useful object to integrate in clothing. Either sportswear or casual wear could help people relieve pains and wounds, cure arthritis, gout, spondylitis, depression, migraines and other problems with nervous system.

5.3.2. 5.3.2. Sketchbook Sketchbook Starting off by taking a shape inspiration from inventions of these unfortunate inventors, it appeared to be very uptight and repetitive and was not very inspiring for the design DNA that was aimed to be shown. Thinking of innovators, their workspace and atmosphere where constructing an invention a workwear overall was draped on a mannequin to reach more draped, relaxed looks. These shapes we further developed in sketches and combined with previous sketches made in photoshop. Designs were suppose to resemble heavy layers of Franz Reicheltâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s parachute and Thomas Midgleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entangling in bed. Falls of other inventors were supposed to be reflected in sensors that activate circuits, i.e. with fall and a soft touch switch placed on the knee. As the idea of the collection was still very unclear, returning to electronics showed to be more progressive. Creating several soft circuits with different actuators and switches showed to be crucial for understanding of a proper manipulation and use of them.

While waiting for ordered materials, research about designers with similar concepts was made and it became clear that nowadays electronics go either over the top or become too insignificant. The main aim was to fill the gap between designing wearable garments which can also be a showpiece as well as project the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individuality. After the arrival of necessary components, equipment and tools, several experiments showed how magnetism and conductivity can be combined to create ornamental patterns, transformations or other decorative and functional effects. First two chosen outfits were prototyped, however overall outfit was not very appealing and was therefore scrapped and swapped with another design. Fabric combination was bouncing between wools and twill cottons, although after tests performed upon these, the combination of wool with silks was a clear forerunner. This was due to the silk being much thinner, making it more suitable for electromagnets that require

a lot of windings to become strong enough to hold iron powder and other objects through the fabric. Simultaneously with prototyping and fittings, testing of various circuits was done and also learning programming for Arduino IDE. Effects of magnets had to be constantly adjusted to new findings and factors of circuits coming up. Final designs include simple neodymium magnets with magnetic powder creating patterns, circuit with a tilt switch, so that when model turns or is in vertical position, circuit is open and electromagnets are turned off. Third constructed outfit uses Flora board connected to LSM9DS0/ accelerometer, gyroscope, compass and electromagnets as an actuator. Flora is programmed the way that when model/person turns, electromagnets turn of making top layers of the dress fall down. On the sketches you can see how the circuits are constructed inside of each garment.

Other effects of magnetism that were considered are: -

iron powder with magnetic pad to create a pattern

powder falling off a garment

creating magnetic poles effect with two or more magnets

powder closed in between 2 layers of fabric that would move

transparent packets filled with powder, moving up and down when electromagnet goes on and off

flaps that transform garment from one to another

flaps completely falling off when magnets are turned off

2 flaps altering / moving from side to side according to opposite magnets turning on and off

powder creating different patterns when falling down (each time it falls lower, it attaches to another electromagnet, creating different trace on the fabric)

pockets used as a packet of powder

dress made out of magnetic pads with flowy lightweight fabric over it covered with magnetic glue that could be placed over the magnetic pad to create different drapings

use of repellency of magnets to get flaps moving

different sensors- reacting to light, location, speed, sound or a simple switch

dress with speakers , magnets used in speakers would be interrupted by electromagnets turning on

use of magnetic levitation

ferrofluid

Most of the ideas sound good in theory but are very complex to reach in reality. Strength of the magnet, reflecting in circumference and weight of the magnet is not very suitable for garments. Ferrofluid as a fluid is also a difficult material to work with when talking about clothing and so is the magnetic levitation.

5.3.3. Colourcard

5.3.4. Material card

Colours of the collections were inspired by earthy colours and feel taken form the photos of inventors. Then they were re-born by giving them more fresh up-todate look. Final colours comprises of grey (Pantone dark shadow 19-3906 TPX), olive green (Pantone- Plantation 18-0832 TPX), purple (Pantone Nightsade 193712 TPX), blue (Pantone Blue coral â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 19-4526 TPX), dark blue (Pantone Majolica blue 19-4125 TPX). Red colour was only used for accessories like boots and silver and black colour as magnets and magnetic pads.

Chosen materials for the collection were at first uncertain between more workwear â&#x20AC;&#x201C;cotton twills and more upgraded transformation of inspiration into wools and silks. Twills, however resembling workwear, could be easily misunderstood for cheap garments while wools and silks gave whole collection more highend feel as well as a better manipulation with electromagnets. Electromagnets need to be used with thin materials to reach the best effects, as the thickness of the electromagnets does not allow very high strength of the magnet.

Trousers were made out of either 100% wool or 100% silk. Same woolen material would be used for jackets and dresses, however current options for purchasing fabrics did not allow this. Alternative material closest to feel and colour of 100% cotton was 50% wool/50% viscose fabric which was used for making a jacket and the dress. In the real final collection, quality like 100% wool of trousers would be used as a bounding grey material for all outfits. To add the jacket in second outfit nicer feel, 100% grey silk is used as a lining as well

as a lining for flaps at the front of the jacket, where electromagnets are placed. Trousers in second outfit were originally sewn in two versions. Graduated silk was initially changed for a polyester material in similar colour, however, its structure and shine gave trousers unwanted cheap effect. PVC is used for keeping magnetite/iron powder in place, to create patterns that are visible through the transparent plastic.

5.3.4.1. Other. non-fabric materials Stainless steel thread, enameled wire, metal bar, transistor (mosfet), resistor (300 ohm), 3x AA battery pack, 1x 9V battery, Flora board, LSM9DS0 sensor (accelerometer, gyroscope, compass), tilt switch, hook and eye â&#x20AC;&#x201C; used as a switch, neodymium magnets, atomized iron/magnetite powder.

5.3.5. 5.3.5. Line-up Line-up Collection comprises out of 9 outfits with different effects using magnets or electromagnets. 3 outfits uses only neodymium magnets, 3 use electromagnets with simple switch and 3 electromagnets that are connected to programmed flora board and different sensors. Magnets in the first outfit can create a pattern on over- shirt, where yoke is filled with atomised iron powder. In the second outfit, magnetic pad is used to hold freely atomised iron or magnetite powder. Third outfit has powder falling down when sensor detects certain colour, fourth outfit reacts to vertical position of a model (tilt switch). Fifth outfit has a magnetic pad used as a clip for layered fabric. Sixth outfit creates patterns on fabric when electromagnet is turned on by the use of switch located in a shoe. Seventh outfit reacts to a person turning around which makes flaps on the dress fall down. Eighth outfit can be redesigned by attaching magnetic glue pattern on magnets at the jacket. The last outfit is transformed when front flap opens and side falls down.

5.3.6. Working sketches

Working sketches are made to illustrate the best way asymmetric garments and transformation, but do not illustrate the way circuits are made. Sewn outfits First outfit: First outfit comprises of woolen trousers with side pockets and a second layer of pockets inspired by workwear overall. Trousers have lowered crotch to create more casual look, and one single welt pocket on the back. Hem is finished with cuff and waist with shaped waistband and belt loops. Upper part of the outfit is created from two layers of shirt, under and over shirt. Undershirt is very open and provocative. Asymmetrical bands finish inside trousers, wrapped around the leg with stripe closing with snap buttons. Shoulder part of the shirt is decorated with small neodymium magnets. Right side of the shirt is loosely hanging down the front. Over shirt is a basic over-sized shirt with hidden button closure and collar with concealed stand.

Shirt has joint front and back yoke filled with iron powder. One seam sleeve is finished with onebut- ton notched cuff and placket. When over shirt and undershirt are combined together, it is possible to create patterns with magnets and iron powder. When only undershirt is worn, magnets can be joined together to create thinner straps of the shirt over the shoulders. Second outfit: These have simple silk trousers with side pockets at the front and patch pockets at the back. Zipper closure at the front is finished with button on the shaped waistband. Trousers are paired with lined jacket. Jacket has layer asymmetric layers at the front and deep cleavage with hook and eye closure. Back of the jacket and sleeves and finished with elastic band. Jacket is activated when person/model falls. Underneath the collar is located a tilt switch which turns off electromagnets inside the flaps at the front.

These release magnetite/iron powder. Hook and eye are used as a switch so the jacket could be easily turned of when not being worn. For washing, removing batteries is necessary. Third outfit: Multi-layered dress that is made out of three fabrics is designed. Wool/ polyester combined with thin polyester, and jersey on the sleeves for a tight effect. Sides of the dress as well as shoulders are hand stitched to achieve more natural pleats. When all the parts of the dress are on, jacket is mostly grey, only olive green peeking through at the back side of the front flap and at the back slit. Jacket is activated by rotation movement, which turns off electromagnets located on the shoulder and hips. After turning off, flaps fall down and transform into a different design. On the pictures bellow are illustrated different versions of the dress as well as the side view

DÚMED

5.3.7. Name of the collection Purpose of this collection and concept of the company is not use of e-textiles (smart garments, smart clothing, electronics textiles, smart textiles, smart fabrics) or smart technology to produce the garment. Concept of the company is to incorporate soft circuit electronics directly inside/ outside/in between the layers of a garment. Use of electronics is not strictly qualified to have decorative or functional purposes. Collection’s name is created from tragicomic destinies of fallen inventors and even though not intentionally, also the collection on its own. Word “Doomed” is transformed when “oo” is written phonetically in Slovak, using a letter “ú”. U shape is also used as an expression for horseshoe magnet, to express magnets which are used in the collection.

5.3.8. Washing instructions Any garment made by Fashtronics that incorporates electronics is fully washable after removing battery, which is accessible and removable. Except batteries, microphones and other components that might get filled with water should be removed too. Designs including metal pieces, LED lights, flora microboard, arduino sensors, magnets and electromagnets can be machine washed because all of them are able to handle water. It is important to dry them out before plugging in the battery again. To protect microboard from corrosion or washing machine from magnet loss in the drum, garments can be hand-washed or placed into a pillow case before washing. Electronics in garments can be

machine washed because water is not a good conductor, its salt and other dissolved solids that makes water cause short circuits. Physical agitation might be the biggest concern when washing garments, their breaking or loosening. To prolong longevity of a garment it is recommended to wash garments by hand (it is recommended, not necessary.) For Dūmed collection, its only garments including atomized iron/magnetite powder that should be washed by hand not to ruin the consistency of the powder. Notice that the magnets may corrode after washing!

5.3.9. Target group

Wearer of Dúmed collection is most of all an androgynous experimenter. Rather than being restricted by her age, she is restricted only by her imagination and how far she lets her fashion pieces go. With her masculine attitude and silhouette she fits fully into an urban environment and daily rush of a workaholic. A woman keen on arts, psychology or gender study is just as provocative as she is “handsome”. Her style is effortless and tomboyish inspired by classical menswear elements paired with silks, wools and other high quality fabrics. She is a woman who doesn’t fit into the societal “feminine” category, but wants to stay simply different, deliberately blurring lines between masculine and feminine.

She is innovative. She is independent. She is educated. She is opinionated. She is dauntless. She is unique. She is androgynous. She is a creator.

Putting “muse” behind the collection aside, collection as such is meant for individuals as well as groups or companies that would be interesting in collaborating on further development of the collection, its concept or having one of the designs customized, not only in fit, but in what type of electronics it includes. On Fashtronics website customers can contact the company to share their own idea and discuss its realization. Lets say customer likes the design, but would like to have it combined with different type of electronics from the collection, or has an idea for electronic solution on his own, its just up to the agreement of Fashtronics studio and the customer to agree on the way its made. There is a space for collaboration with different companies as well. Competitors like Kobakant, Adafruit and Design Lab, may become a contributor or a collaborator by merging concepts of the two companies together. Moreover, besides the characteristics of a wearer, most probable target group are performers, artists (musicians) or celebrities looking for a garment to boost the atmosphere of a concert or their entry into an event.

Oversized styles, dropped shoulder or lowered crotch add to the masculinity and give clothes additional timeless, up-to-date, touch. Very less accessories, watches on her wrist, boots on her feet, asymmetry and functional pockets provide a lot of comfort and feeling of immediate merge in the streets of a modern city.

5.4. What is important to know when constructing electronics for designed collection of Fashtronics? 5.4.1.Voltage Bodies with opposite charges attract and in turn exert a force which draws them to each other. The force they exert is proportional to the product of the charge of the masses of the two bodies. External force is needed to keep them apart and more force is required to push them further apart.

The electrical force is inversely proportional to the distance squared between the two bodies, ie shorter distance means the force is greater. It takes greater force to separate opposite charge and therefore when the opposite charges are separated, there is a high amount of energy stored as potential or stored energy like a spring. This potential energy or stored energy that keeps the opposite charges is called Voltage or Electric Potential difference. Voltage is measured in volts or V. The voltage is higher if the charge is higher or the separation between the two bodies is higher. Voltage is always measured between two points.

field to move the charge between two points. A voltmeter (found alone or as a function of multimeter). Voltage of any body is usually measured against a constant which is usually ground which is at a infinite 0V. Electric charge always flows to ground which is

an almost infinite reservoir of neutral charge. This is why lightning always hits the ground. Also electricity always finds the shortest/easiest path. You can only find out if a body is positively or negatively charged with two or more bodies. Voltage or electrical potential difference is additive. That is, if the voltage at point A is 5V, B is at 0V and C is -5V, then the voltage or potential difference between A and C is 10V.

Voltage between two points is equal to the work done per unit of charge against a static electric 31

5.4.2. Current In certain materials like metals, elements and compounds called conductors, charge (valance electrons) can move across given there is a voltage. There are also materials like air, rubber, elements and compounds called insulators where the charge canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t flow through. There is a 3rd group called semiconductors whose conductivity or flow of charge depends on different conditions. Silicon and germanium are semiconductors and have impurities which make them good semiconductors. If you connect two bodies with two different charges (different voltages or electrical potential) with a conductor, electrons or electrical charge will flow between the two bodies till the charges are balanced or both the bodies reach the same electrical potential or voltage. This flow of electrical charge is called current and is measured in amperes or amps or A. Current always flows from a higher potential (voltage) to a lower potential. Contrary to popular belief, current flows in the opposite direction of electrons. Ie If electron flows from point A to B, current flows from B to A.

Resistance When a voltage V is applied to a piece of metal wire, the current I flows through the wire is proportional to the voltage V across two points in the wire. This is known as Ohm’s Law.

where R= resistance and G= conductance. Resistance and conductance is inversely proportional to each other ie R=1/G. Materials always have a resistance and is measured in Ohms or Ω. Any material or device that has a resistive property is called a resistor. The power required to pass current I through a resistor of resistance R of voltage difference V is given by the equation

5.4.3.Circuits An electric circuit is formed by interconnecting components having different electric properties. A collection of devices such as resistors and sources in which terminals are connected together by connecting wires to a voltage source is called electric circuit. Wires converges in nodes and devices are called branches of the circuit as shown in the diagram below.

Kirchhoff’s Current Law (KCL) As a result of the conservation of charge, the node, being of negligible physical size, holds no charge. For instance, the sum of all the currents in the bottom figure I1, I2 and I3 must equal zero. Kirchoff’s current Law states that where is the current flowing in the kth branch and its direction is assumed to be pointing towards the node.

5.4.4. Diode A diode is an electrical component which only allows flow of current in one direction. This is because it has very low resistance to flow of current in one direction and high (almost infinity) resistance in the opposite direction. A flyback diode is a type of diode used to eliminate a sudden voltage spike across a load when the supply voltage is switched off or reduced. In the project, we have used 1N4001 diode to suppress any kickback/flyback spike in voltage while it is switched off. It prevents sparks or shock if anyone is in contact with the circuit.

Kirchhoff’s Voltage Law (KVL) Similar to Kirchoff’s Current

law, even voltages across different nodes in a closed circuit as the example in the diagram above will add up to zero. Formally, Kirchoff’s Voltage Law states that the algebraic sum of the voltages between successive nodes in a closed path in a circuit is equal to zero. In mathematical form, for a closed path with successive nodes , KVL states that where is the voltage between nodes j and k.

5.4.5. Transistors: A transistor is a semiconductor component which is used to amplify and switch electronic signals and electrical power. MOSFET transistors are a three legged transistor which only require a small current (lesser than 1mA) to deliver a higher current to a load.

For the flora circuit, the flora board cant handle the high current because of the low resistance of the electromagnetic coils. To compensate for that, we add a MOSFET transistor (IRLB8721) to supply the voltage/current to the coil. MOSFETs allow a high load (up to 50A) while drawing only currents lesser than 1A. This is crucial for the microcontroller circuits 5.4.6. Mercury Tilt Switch The mercury tilt switch is a switch which switches ON and OFF with orientation. As the name suggests, a mercury tilt switch contains a small amount of mercury inside a glass bulb. The operation of the switch is based on the unique properties of mercury: it is both a conductor and a liquid. When the switch tilts mercury flows to the bottom of the bulb closing the circuit between two metal pins. 5.4.7. Energy source All the circuits require energy, which can be provided either by batteries, plugged in source or an active element like solar cells or powered by movement like in automatic watches. A plugged in source cannot be used since it is to be incorporated into a portable design. The most logical choice would be to use a battery (preferably rechargeable one for cost saving) or solar power. However, even for solar cells, it is essential to have a battery source. For electromagnets, a DC source works stronger and hence portable batteries are a better choice. It is essential to include the size of the battery and the portability into account while designing the circuit.

Batteries use a chemical reaction to produce energy and separate opposite sign charges in it two terminals. As the charge is drawn off by an external circuit, doing work and finally returning to the opposite terminal, more chemicals in the battery react to restore the charge difference and the voltage. The particular type of chemical reaction used determines the voltage of the battery, but for most commercial batteries the voltage is about 1.5 V per chemical section or cell. Batteries with higher voltages really contain multiple cells inside connected together in series. Now you know why there are 3 V, 6 V, 9 V, and 12 V batteries, but no 4 or 7 V batteries. Batteries are specified in terms of their terminal voltage, the maximum current they can deliver, and the total current capacity in ampere-hours. For simplicity of our project, it is easier to use either a 9V battery (for the tilt circuit) and battery pack with rechargeable NiCa or LiPo batteries (for the flora circuit). 5.4.8. Magnetism Magnetism is defined as a class of physical phenomena that are mediated by magnetic fields. All materials are influenced to a certain extent by the magnetic field. Contrary to popular belief, all materials experience magnetism out of which some experience more than the others. Permanent magnets, made from materials such as iron, experience the strongest effects, known as ferromagnetism. Magnetic field sources are dipolar (i.e. a north and south magnetic polew). Opposite poles (N and S) attract, and like poles (N and N, or S and S) repel. The Earth itself is a 33

giant magnet. A compass points north because the small magnetic needle in it is suspended so that it can spin freely inside its casing to align itself with the planetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s magnetic field. There are essential two types of magnets: â&#x20AC;˘ Permanent Magnets â&#x20AC;˘ Electromagnets 5.4.8.1.Permanent Magnets Permanent magnets are made from an already magnetized material and have a permanent magnetic field. They are usually made of iron, nickel, cobalt or alloys of rare earth materials. These magnets are extensively used in various industries and equipment. They come in various shapes and sizes. Certain materials can be also made into permanent magnets. These materials have strong magnetic fields and can hold strongly to ferromagnetic materials. We have used various magnets in the form of magnetic pads or neodymium magnets (strong magnetic field) for the project. 5.4.8.2.Electromagnets: These are temporary magnets created by the presence of a magnetic field which is created by an electric current. The magnetic field only lasts till the current flows. Electromagnets are usually created by wrapping wire around a core material which becomes magnetic when current flows through the wire. The strength of the electromagnet depends on the electric current in the winding. They are extensively used in electrical such as motors, generators, relays, loudspeakers, hard disks, etc.

An electromagnet essentially consists of a voltage source (usually a battery), a wire which is wound (enamelled wire preferably) around a metallic magnetisable core (usually made of iron or similar alloy)

The strength of an electromagnet depends on the following factors: • Material of core: The magnetic permeability of the core will determine the strength of the electromagnet. Materials like aluminium are bad materials whereas materials with iron or those are attracted by magnets are good candidates for the electromagnets. Materials like plastic and metals like aluminium are bad core materials for electromagnets. • Voltage of battery or energy source: Higher the voltage, the higher the current passing through the coil. • Thickness of coil (wire): The thicker the wire, the higher the current and therefore

the stronger the electromagnet. However it is better to use a medium thickness wire since heat dissipated will be higher when it is a thicker wire • Number of windings: The higher the number of windings, the stronger the magnetic force of the electromagnet will be. The electromagnets lose some energy as heat but this can be reduced by decreasing the current flowing through and mainly increasing the number of windings. An electromagnet has significant inductance and resists changes in the current through its windings, so any sudden changes in the winding current causes large voltage spikes across the windings. To avoid this, we include what we call a flyback diode in the circuit. Enamelled wire is a good candidate for the coil windings since it has only a thin layer of insulation as compared to other wires and reduces the thickness of the electromagnet which is crucial for integrating them into fashion. 5.4.9.Analog and dialog circuits Analog circuits: These circuits consist of the fundamental electronic components like resistors, capacitors, inductors, diodes, transistors and operational amplifiers. Circuits based on a combination of these components are analog circuits. Analog circuits can be simple or complex depending on the function. Analog circuits are much more difficult to design for complex functions and digital components make them easier. However they are faster than digital circuits. Analog circuits are more susceptible to noise (undesired 34

variations to voltage) which gives errors during processing. The tilt circuit used is an analog circuit, consisting of a switch (hook and eye loop), mercury tilt switch, diodes (fly back diode). This keeps the design simple and we don’t lose out a lot of energy to run any digital components. Digital Circuits: Digital circuits operate using digital, discrete signals. These circuits usually comprises of a combination of transistors, logics microcontrollers and/or other computing chips. They use a binary scheme for digital signalling. That is, they use a high (5V, 3V or 1.5V) voltage to represent one value and a low voltage (0V usually) to represent the binary. Digital circuits make circuit design easier but they are more expensive. They could be small digital circuits or huge supercomputers. The second circuit consists of a microcontroller/programmable printed circuit board called Flora from Adafruit Industries. The advantage of these programmable circuits is that they can be programmed with several inputs from different sensors to run/ activate other transducers. Flora shall be discussed in detail in the later chapter. Analog and Digital circuits combination: Microcontrollers like flora are mainly digital circuits, however they should be able to read analog inputs from different sensors which enable them to interface with analog sensors (like photocells or temperature sensors or magnetometer or gyroscope)

with the help of analog-to-digital convertors (ADC). These microcontrollers (like Flora) can also convert the output digital signals to analog signals with the help of digital-to-analog converter in cases where you want to produce an analog voltage or sound. 5.4.10. Pulse-Width modulation Pulse-Width modulation (PWM) is a modulation technique used to encode a message into a pulsing signal. Microcontrollers like Flora use PWM signals as output to give voltage to a transducer. In the flora circuit, it is used to give output to the electromagnet circuit. PWM allows to vary the time the analog signal (voltage) is high. Since the output from microcontroller (flora) can only be high (5V) or low (0V) at any time, it is only possible to change how long the signal is high or low over a time interval. ‘ON TIME’ is the time when the signal is high during a particular interval of time. Duty cycle is the concept PWM works on. Duty cycle is the percentage of time during a time interval when the digital signal is high (voltage is 5V) Duty cycle is measured in percentage.

The percentage duty cycle specifically describes the percentage of time a digital signal is on over an interval or period of time. In the graphic above, the green lines represent a regular time period of 2 milliseconds. A call to analogWrite() is on a scale of 0 255, such that analogWrite(255) requests a 100% duty cycle (always on), and analogWrite(127) is a 50% duty cycle (on half the time) for example. These translate into the strength of the Electromagnet circuit. For the flora circuit programming, instead of percentages/duty cycle, we use the analog write function which ranges from 0 to 255 where 0 means 0V (Electromagnet switches OFF) and 255 means 3.3V (Electromagnet switches ON) 5.4.11. Transducers: Any type of device that converts one form of energy to another is called a transducer. There are four types of transducers: 1. Active Transducers: These transducers convert one form of energy to another without any external power source. 2. Passive Transducers: They convert electrical energy to create a change in a passive electrical quantity. 3. Sensors: A sensor like the name suggests senses some attribute (like wind or light) and report it in another form of energy. 4. Actuators: An actuator is a type of transducer that converts electrical signals into a mechanical movement. 5.

Bidrectional: These trans35

ducers are capable of working both ways like an antenna which convert waves into an electrical signal and vice versa 5.4.12. Arduino Arduino is an open-source prototyping platform based on easyto-use hardware and software. Arduino boards (in our case, Flora) are able to read inputs (in our case deflection of gyroscope sensor) and turn it into an output (in our case switch Electromagnet ON or OFF). You can program the Arduino board (Flora) with different functions to make it read inputs from one or more sensors and translate a corresponding output from a transducer. Arduino helps in a lot of DIY (Do-It-Yourself) projects throughout the world with a huge open source library of codes. It is a rather easy to use platform for interfacing basic sensors to really complex ones. The Arduino software (IDE) runs on Windows, Macintosh OSX and Linus based operating systems. 5.4.12.1. Arduino Library Arduino Libraries are a collection of code that makes it easy for you to connect to another microcontroller, pc, sensor, display, module, etc. These act like how Windows’s drivers act for Windows OS. It is essential for the Arduino board (Flora) to be programmed to recognise the different sensors. It also helps interfacing other outputs or transducers like LCD displays, flashing LEDs, servo motors, etc. We have mainly used 4 libraries here:

1.SPI.h (Serial Peripheral Interface)- This library allows the arduino (Flora) to communicate with one or more peripheral devices quickly over short distances. This is essential for the Flora board to communicate over the USB to the computer and also other peripheral devices like certain sensors. 2. WIRE.h – This library is responsible for allowing the Flora board to communicate with I2C devices like accelerometer/compass or LSM9DS0, etc. 3. Adafruit_Sensor.h – This library enables the Flora board to integrate all the sensor readings into a single comparable data loop. 4. Adafruit_LSM9DS0.h – This library helps Flora board compile all the information needed for the particular LSM9DS0 sensor. 5.4.12.2. Flora Flora is a programmable microcontroller arduino board which can be programmed from an Windows or Macintosh OSX operating system. It is round, sewable and washable Arduino-compatible microcontroller. The FLORA is small (1.75” diameter, weighing 4.4 grams). The FLORA has built-in USB support. The power supply is designed to be flexible and easy to use. There is an onboard polarized 2 JST battery connector with protection schottky diode for use with external battery packs from 3.5v to 16v DC in. Can be used with LiIon/LiPoly, LiFe, alkaline or rechargeable NiMh/NiCad batteries of any size. FLORA is fabric friendly-- all the components on

board are flush to the PCB and won’t snag delicate garments. Flora Pinout Diagram: The Flora board has a micro USB connection to program the board itself from a computer. It has a JST connector to power it using a battery pack which has 3 AA batteries and gives it around 4.5V. There are three ground (GND) terminals for all connections. Two connections SCL (data line) and SDA (clock line) are for devices or sensors (in our case the LSM9DS0) which will be connected to it. There are two regulated 3.3V supply for the transistor or any other device to use. D6 (or A7), D9 (or A9) and D10 (or A10) are programmable digital or analog outputs with pulse-width modulation capability. D12 is the same but however it lacks PWM capability and hence not used in our project. RX and TX are for the serial port and communicate through Receive (RX) and Transmit (TX) with a computer. VBATT is for giving direct output voltage from the battery pack. The flora has a few LEDs on board, one for showing power, one to show that it is transmitting/receiving data from a computer. It also has a neopixel (LED with multiple color output) in the centre below the main processor chip. This LED can be 36

configured as an output to test different functions. The most used output transducer for Arduino is the Neopixels in terms of wearable technology. 5.4.12.3. LSM303DHLC: The LSM303 is a precision sensor module to detect motion and direction. This consists of 3-axis accelerometer which helps in telling which direction is the ground (my measuring acceleration due to gravity) and also ow fast the board is accelerating in space. It also has a compass or a magnetometer which can sense the magnetic field in different axis and can be used to detect magnetic north. This is beneficial in projects where orientation and direction matter, however LSM9DS0 is a better sensor module since it combines these 2 functions with a gyroscope to give a clearer picture of position, twist, movement and orientation. 5.4.12.4. LSM9DS0 The LSM9DS0 is an all-in-one 9-DOF (Degree of freedom) which can detect motion, direction and orientation which can be interfaced with Flora. There are three sensors: • A 3-axis accelerometer, which can tell you which direction is down towards the Earth

(by measuring gravity) or how fast the board is accelerating in 3D space. â&#x20AC;˘ A 3-axis magnetometer that can sense where the strongest magnetic force is coming from, generally used to detect magnetic north like a compass. â&#x20AC;˘ A 3-axis gyroscope that can measure spin and twist. The combination of all these data from the sensors enables the user to get information to orientate oneself or activate different transducers. The LSM9DS0 has 3 different axis X,Y and Z planes as seen. The movement, twisting, spinning and acceleration can be measured digitally by this sensor. This is used to detect the motion of the model and can be programmed accordingly to detect the preferred motion as the stimulus.

5.5. How were the circuits created and what issues occured during development? 5.5.1. Designing electromagnet 1. The first step was to make electromagnets for the designs. For this initially, different wires were wrapped around bolts and nails made of different materials and connected to a AA battery to power it up and check if it works. 2. Different batteries like AA battery (1.5V), D battery (1.5V but higher current capability) and 9V batteries were used. The 9V battery proved to be the strongest source for the electromagnet design. This would be dependant on whether it is used in the tilt circuit or flora circuit. 3. Next step was to try different wires for the electromagnetic coil. When thicker wire was used, the battery and the electromagnet was getting hot due to the energy/heat dissipated. Thinner wire was better. After doing research, copper enamelled wire was used since it had only a thin layer of insulation and hence made the electromagnet design thinner and more efficient. The ends of the enamelled wire had to be burnt off to expose the wire (there is an enamel coating on the wire which acts as the insulation). 4. The number of windings determine the strength of the electromagnet. Maximum number of windings were wrapped around for a medium weight of the electromagnet. The total length was approximately around 10m of enamelled wire for each electromagnet and the resistance of the electromagnet coil was found to be around 2ohms using a multimeter. 5. Different materials were experimented with to determine the strength of the electromagnet. Also different shapes of the electromagnet core was attempted to decide the best core. A 3mm threaded bar was found to give the best results. However further research proved that there were better materials which are more expensive and difficult to obtain for achieving better results. This is kept for consideration in future projects for construction of better electromagnets. 6. Combining all these factors the electromagnet was constructed and used for both the tilt circuit and the flora (programmable microcontroller circuit). â&#x20AC;&#x192;

5.5.2. Designing tilt circuit 1.

It is important to initially construct the circuit with all the requirements of the project.

2. We had to consider that it requires a voltage source (battery), a resistor (so that the battery doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get hot because of the current drawn), a switch (to isolate the circuit so it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t switched ON all the time) and a tilt switch (functional switch to switch ON/OFF the electromagnet according to orientation). 3. A 9V battery with connector terminal was used. This ensured that the battery could be removed during washing/laundry. The 9V battery gave ample voltage to power the circuit. 4. Initially a small switch component was utilised to complete the circuit to switch ON/OFF the circuit. Further research revealed that either zippers, loop & hole or Velcro switches would be better incorporated into fabric designs and would activate the electromagnet design when the zipper is closed or loop & hole is touching. This ensured that the electromagnet would be only switched on when the clothes are worn and not ON all the time. However the zipper was too heavy to incorporate into the design which was already heavy because of the presence of the electromagnets. 5. A mercury tilt switch was ordered online and used to activate when the model would recline and hence opening the circuit which would switch off the tilt circuit. 6. These steps were all tried on a breadboard with a single electromagnet and a 9V battery source. There was a spark created because of the inductive voltage spike as mentioned earlier. To prevent this, a flyback diode was introduced to the circuit in parallel to the electromagnet. 7. The 3 electromagnets were connected in series initially. But the higher resistance meant that there was lesser current and made the electromagnets weaker. They were then used in parallel to ensure a higher current which in turn meant higher strength of electromagnets. 8. Conductive thread was used to connect the different components when on the fabric. Multiple layers of conductive thread had to be used to ensure enough current was being carried. 9. They were then tried with different fabric and different thicknesses of the fabric. The electromagnets strength was restricted because of the weight and the integration in to the final design. 10. The appropriate position was sketched to ensure that the model would be comfortable wearing it and make sure that it was kept insulated from the skin. 11. Also taken into consideration was the heat produced and incorporate into future designs a layer of fabric which would keep it thermally insulated.

5.5.3. Designing Flora circuit 1. The first initial step was to choose a programmable microcontroller for the project so that it is something versatile to work with. It had to have a choice to add different sensors, different transducers and to make sure it is easily programmable with maximum number of inputs/outputs. Adafruit’s flora and Arduino’s Lilypad were the two contenders. Flora was chosen because of the ability to interface it with more sensors, transducers and had more inputs and outputs. 2.

The flora came with a battery pack of 4.5V.

3. The next step was to learn the programming. The availability of tutorials and open source library made it easier to learn programming with the help of dedicated forums for Flora. 4. The program had to call out the different libraries of sensors it was using, define constants, and initialise the flora board & different sensors and then the program loop. This program loop was the main coding of the program. 5. The LSM303DLHC was the first sensor to be interfaced with the flora board. The three terminals of the LSM303DLHC (SDA, SCL and GND) were connected to the same corresponding terminals (SDA, SCL and GND) and a test program which is available on the Arduino program was tested out. The outputs of different values of Accelerometer and Magnetometer were displayed on ‘Serial Monitor’. On testing it was noted that this would not produce the desired effect when the model turned and also the interference from the electromagnets would interfere with the reading of the magnetometer (compass) since it uses a magnet to determine magnetic north. 6. The next choice was the 9 Degree of Freedom module, the LSM9DS0 sensor module which had a gyroscope. This module could determine the actual position and orientation of the model. 7. Initially, the flora board was programmed to blink an LED when the gyroscope rotated more than a threshold value. This program would loop around every second. If there was a change in the value of the gyroscope, it would compare it with the value of the previous gyroscope reading (1 second before) and if the difference was more than the threshold value, the LED would blink. 8.

The threshold value could be edited for making it more/less sensitive to rotation.

9. This was done by using an IF() ELSE () statement. This program checked constantly whether the threshold value was being crossed. IF the threshold value was crossed, it would blink the LED; ELSE the LED would remain unlit. This constituted the interfacing of the gyroscope sensor in the programming. 10. It was noted that the gyroscope module had to be kept flat with the Z axis parallel to the ground. This could be changed according to the position and orientation of the sensor module. 11. The next bit was to ensure that the sensors would trigger a response in an output pin (A9, A10 or A6) giving a voltage when the threshold value was crossed. Initially an analog write function was used to output the voltage. 12. Further reading showed that it has to be a PWM output using the digital write function. The digital write function was then used. This gave an output of 3.3V on the corresponding flora pin.

13. The digital write function had values from 0 to 255. 0 meant 0% pwm or 0V and 255 meant 3.3V. The circuit was designed so as to deactivate the magnet when there is a rotation that crosses the threshold value. 14.

This meant that the constant had to be a digital output.

15. The Flora board output pins arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t capable of outputting more than 0.1A (100mA) and the current draw from the electromagnets exceeded 1A. A transistor circuit had to be incorporated to the output. 16. After researching on the internet, a MOSFET transistor capable of handling huge currents was added to each electromagnet. The circuit was design to incorporate it. 17.

A flyback diode was also added to ensure there was no spark from the inductive load voltage.

18. Delays were added in between in the program (the loop section) to react at different times and different intervals. 19. 5 different electromagnets were added to 3 different outputs and programmed to react at different times. 20.

The program was modified to suit 3 different outputs instead of one output.

5.5.4. Explanation of final programming code

#include <SPI.h> Includes library which enables communication with computer #include <Wire.h> Includes library which enables communication with I2C devices like LSM9DS0 sensor #include <Adafruit_Sensor.h> Includes library which compiles all data readings into single output or for datalogging #include <Adafruit_LSM9DS0.h> Includes library for Adafruit sensor LSM9DS0 #define LSM9DS0_XM_CS 10 #define LSM9DS0_GYRO_CS 9 Defining functions of the LSM9DS0 sensor and configuring it to work with #define LSM9DS0_SCLK 13 the Flora board. #define LSM9DS0_MISO 12 #define LSM9DS0_MOSI 11 int output1 = 10; int output2 = 9; int output3 = 6;

Initialising ‘output1’ as output on pin D10 Initialising ‘output2’ as output on pin D9 Initialising ‘output3’ as output on pin D6

Adafruit_LSM9DS0 lsm = Adafruit_LSM9DS0(1000);

Assigning a unique base ID for the sensor

#define MOVE_THRESHOLD 10000 Defining a constant value for ‘MOVE_THRESHOLD’. This sets the threshold value for the rotation. Change this value for setting sensitivity of gyroscope to movement. void displaySensorDetails(void) { sensor_t accel, mag, gyro, temp ; Displays some basic information on this sensor lsm.getSensor(&accel, &mag, &gyro, &temp); delay(500); } void configureSensor(void) { lsm.setupAccel(lsm.LSM9DS0_ACCELRANGE_2G); lsm.setupMag(lsm.LSM9DS0_MAGGAIN_2GAUSS); lsm.setupGyro(lsm.LSM9DS0_GYROSCALE_245DPS); }

Sets the accelerometer range Sets the magnetometer sensitivity Setup the gyroscope

void setup(void) { while (!Serial); Wait for flora board Serial.begin(9600); Baudrate (data transmission speed) set to 9600 Serial.println(F(“LSM9DS0 9DOF Sensor Test”)); Serial.println(“”); Displays on serial monitor statement in “ ” if(!lsm.begin())

Initialise the sensor 45

{

Serial.print(F(“Ooops, no LSM9DS0 detected ... Check your wiring or I2C ADDR!”)); Displays on serial monitor error prompt that there is no sensor detected while(1); } Serial.println(F(“Found LSM9DS0 9DOF”)); Displays on serial monitor error prompt that the sensor has been detected displaySensorDetails(); Displays some basic sensor details configureSensor(); Setup sensor gain and integration time pinMode(output1, OUTPUT); pinMode(output2, OUTPUT); pinMode(output3, OUTPUT); Serial.println(“”); }

Initialize electromagnet pin ‘output1’ as an output Initialize electromagnet pin ‘output2’ as an output Initialize electromagnet pin ‘output3’ as an output Leave a space in between on serial monitor

void loop(void) { sensors_event_t accel, mag, gyro, temp ; lsm.getEvent(&accel, &mag, &gyro, &temp );

Start of main program loop Get all new sensor data from all the 4 functions of the sensor i.e. accel, magn, gyro and temp

Serial.print(“Gyro X: “); Serial.print(gyro.gyro.x); Serial.print(“ “); Print out gyroscropic for all axis data on Serial.print(“ \tY: “); Serial.print(gyro.gyro.y); Serial.print(“ “); Serial Monitor Serial.print(“ \tZ: “); Serial.print(gyro.gyro.z); Serial.println(“ \tdps”); delay(250); Wait 250 milliseconds double storedVector=abs(lsm.gyroData.z); Obtain reading from Gyroscope Z-axis and store it under the variable name ‘storedVector’ delay(100); Wait 100 milliseconds. This can be edited to delay the interval at which the two readings are taken lsm.read(); double newVector = abs(lsm.gyroData.z); Obtain reading from Gyroscope Z-axis and store it under the variable name ‘newVector’ if (abs(newVector - storedVector) > MOVE_THRESHOLD) { analogWrite(output1, 0); This bit uses an IF, ELSE statement. Meaning if the difference } between the 2 gyroscopic readings exceeds the threshold value (if else { the model rotates), then output value ‘0’ on output1 which is analogWrite(output1, 255); connected to pin D10 (deactivates the first series of } electromagnets) or else output ‘255’ on output1 (electromagnet remains activated if the value is below the threshold value) delay(2000); Wait 2 seconds. Can be adjusted to alte the interval between deactivation of magnets if (abs(newVector - storedVector) > MOVE_THRESHOLD) { analogWrite(output2, 0); This bit uses an IF, ELSE statement. Meaning if the difference 46

} else { analogWrite(output2, 255); }

between the 2 gyroscopic readings exceeds the threshold value (if the model rotates), then output value ‘0’ on output2 which is connected to pin D9 (deactivates the first series of electromagnets) or else output ‘255’ on output2 (electromagnet remains activated if the value is below the threshold value)

delay(2000); Wait 2 seconds. Can be adjusted to alte the interval between deactivation of magnets if (abs(newVector - storedVector) > MOVE_THRESHOLD) { analogWrite(output3, 0); This bit uses an IF, ELSE statement. Meaning if the difference } between the 2 gyroscopic readings exceeds the threshold value (if else { the model rotates), then output value ‘0’ on output3 which is analogWrite(output3, 255); connected to pin D6 (deactivates the first series of } electromagnets) or else output ‘255’ on output3 (electromagnet remains activated if the value is below the threshold value) Serial.print(“output1: “); Serial.println(output1); Serial.print(“output2: “); Serial.println(output2); Prints out the outputs to the Serial monitor at the end of Serial.print(“output3: “); Serial.println(output3); the loop

5.5.5. Possible reasons for circuits not working The electromagnetic circuits didn’t work due to the following possible reasons: 1. The conductive thread doesn’t carry enough current to the electromagnets because of the thin diameter (higher resistance compared to copper wires) 2. Material of the electromagnet’s core isn’t the best suitable material to make the electromagnet. The steel (magnetic permeability of approximately 5x10-3H/m) isn’t getting magnetised as much as iron (magnetic permeability of approximately 2.5x10-1H/m) or other alloys. Future design would be better with core as iron. 3. Heat from high current could have burnt of insulation of enamelled wire and caused them to fuse together and hence creating distorted paths of current. 4.

Opposing magnetic fields leading from wrapping the coils in opposite direction.

Lack of resistors in circuit leading to a drop of voltage in the battery .

Short circuit created by motion

5.6. How to present the collection when considering it as a part of a long-term fashion brand focusing on incorporating electronics into garments? 5.6.1. Platform Fashtronics platform is a platform for all ages and levels interested in learning more about electronics in fashion as well as a buyer. Platform showcases latest collection in an editorial book as well as each garment separately suggesting its price for solely garment without electronics as well as a price for the whole â&#x20AC;&#x153;packageâ&#x20AC;?. Further customizations can be made when contacting studio. Combining electronics from another outfit in the collection is allowed as well as suggesting own idea for development. Great part of the platform is the learning tutorial part, where

inspirations for soft circuits are shown in 8 categories: Actuators, Powers, Traces, Connections, Wireless, Switches, Conductive materials and Projects. Here, anyone can browse a library of various electronics for free. On the forum, it is possible to ask for an advice from the studio or other electronicsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; enthusiasts. Platform and studio has also an opportunity to sign up for a workshop, happening at Fashtronics studio in Denmark.

dedicated to Arduino products, pattern making, sewing as well as an option to use Fashtronics studio equipment for personal experiments.

Workshops would be split into categories for beginners, advanced electronic users, lessons

To find out more please look at the prototype of Fashtronics platform here: http://margaretasopkova.wix.com/fashtronics

Studio and platform is based on a personal communication and aims to maintain balance in between fashion and electronics. Platform should not be known only for electronics but rather for using them in connection with fashion.

5.6.1. Competitors Competitors 5.6.2.1. 5.6.2.1. Fashion Fashion designers designers Competitors and other designers with similar concept include well known Hussein Chalayan and his well-known and groundbreaking transformers designs, and designs with LED lights and lasers. Chalayan very often collaborates with engineers to create these garments, however they only account for a small part of a presented collection ( usually only 3-5 showpieces in whole collection). More of a studio than a designer is CuteCircuit, a fashion house showing at NYFW. Their designs mostly incorporate LED lights in a futuristic, but not completely “crazy” way. ElektroCouture is a fashion technology house which creates innovative bespoke electronic wearable fashion. These garments mostly experiment with LED lights and are used only in small scale, f.e. a stripe on a scarf, a necklace or a neon ring. Lucy McRae, one of the speakers at TED talks, combines biology and technology. Visually stunning and artistic works are a playful game of a human body and technology innovations in textiles and materials. So far she used smart foils, wireless technologies,

LEDs or copper. In her project “Intimacy” she used smart e-foils that increase in transparency based on close and personal encounters with people. Besides garments she also uses technology in combination with chemistry, when she created a pill that when swallowed, sweats the smell of perfume.

Nicoll with Disney dress (LED lights sew into the fabric of the dress), Iris van HArpen, Bernardn Chandran, Kuchofuku (art conditioned clothing), Nancy Tilbury (clothing applied in lotion), Aeolia by Sarah Kettley. – fiber optic dress.

One of the most inspiring designers Ying Gao created designs that uses motion detection sensors to get garments “dancing” other reacts to light or a proximity of another person other uses an eye-tracking technology.

Fashtronics differentiates compared to these designers in the way that the majority of the collection is built from garments incorporating electronics (compared to Hussein Chalayan) and these garments are not only showpieces but are fully wearable as a daily-wear. Bi-annual collections of Fashtronics are usually composed of about 10 outfits (compared to other wearable-technology projects, where only 1-3 garments are made). These collections are also not solely focused on showcasing electronics, nor making showpieces, but rather balancing among wearable garment, a statement piece and a wearable technology. Collections are also unique in the way they are sold. Customers can see garments online and order them at the same time, or contact the company and discuss its customizing.

Inspiring project for ballet dancers uses Lilypad from Arduino to capture ballet’s movements and transforms these into visual sensation. This data is graphically customized and made into a video or images. Other designs includes climate dress by Diffus ( monitors nearby air pollution levels displayed through LED lights, Audio activated dress by Heidi Kumao, smoke dress by Anouk Wipprechtvideo dress by Moriz Waldmeier, Wei-Chieh Shih laser suit with multiple rows of lasers stretching across the wearer’s back, Richard

Fashtronics differentiation:

5.6.2.2. Engineering studios

Since this collection is launched as a part of a long-term project and a studio, its not only fashion designers that are considered as a competition. One of the biggest competitors in this case becomes Adafruit. Adafruit launched by Limor “Ladyada” Fried, is a place to learn electronics for all ages and skill levels. Adafruit expanded to produce equipment and electronics to make wearable or even non-wearable products. Fast growing company offers a platform where you can discuss your projects, watch tutorials, follow blog, or shop products for your designs. By its popularity it is the biggest competition for Fashtronics and was used to make even this project Another site used, smaller in size, but very useful in soft circuits and other projects made out of fabrics is a website and a blog called “Kobakant”. Website offers easy tutorials on how to construct soft

switches and sensors that can be made by anyone. Design Research Lab at the Berlin University of The Arts works tries to fill the gape between technological innovations and real needs and focuses on exploring smart textiles. Smart Textiles Design Lab experiments with new expressions for textiles through the use of various technologies and textile techniques. High-low tech integrates high and low technological processes and technologies in manufacturing as well as traditional crafts and design. Distance lab is a creative organization that might be the closest to Fashtronics concept. It combines technology, design and arts and provides with advice and

innovative products and services. Distance lab organizes workshops where you can learn and create basic know-how about electronics. This is one of the very few companies where you can find seamstress that can solder and an electrician that can make a hand-embroidered dress. None of the designers or companies focusing on wearable electronics is producing an annual or bi-annual collection of garments. Most common is for designers to collaborate with engineers and electricians or engineers to only focus on small projects rather than creating a whole collection. Therefore Fashtronics are nowadays a unique concept merging together concept of a fashion brand and a wearable electronics studio / platform with own collection, learning platform, and forum.

6. CONCLUSION Research and development of the collection shows an importance of fashion merging with different fields. Trend forecasting at wgsn, or other trend forecasting portals shows relevance of the collection being made in the report about Techno-chic garments. These reports are based on the fast-paced innovations, whether its technology or fashion. People also adapt easily to trends and look for more and more innovation, which sooner or later wont be possible if different fields wont cross and experiment with bending one’s features around the other (i.e. electronics being stiff adjusting to soft wearables) Trends show that fashion pushes borders to relate to people and become more interactive. Developing and selling garments in a traditional way, where all the functions of a garment are decided before purchasing, are no more sufficient enough to satisfy customers’ needs. Creating garments incorporating electronics, where wearer can become directly involved in designing before the purchase or during the use might be an interesting concept to attract customers to shop in an unknown, newly launched brand. Designers’ knowledge about sewing, patterns, embroidery, laser or print, might need some outside-fashion-experience thinking. Even if basics of physics are forgotten, designers should be aware of possibilities that are created specifically for clothing industry. Arduino, Flora (Lilypad) and sensors are the main three terms to be understood when talking about fashion future and wearable electronics. Collection “Dúmed” uses these to enhance already complex garments. First collection of Fashtronics studio this time focuses on magnetism and various ways of using it in fashion. Prototyping of garments include testing with breadboard, soft circuit stitching or even programming by use of Arduino Ide program and its libraries. Main aspects to be considered when creating wearable electronics, its their ability to be washed, their comfort, and visibility in the garment. During development of Dúmed collection, magnets and electromagnets turned out not to be the best choice for garments as creating a simple electromagnets requires a lot of power, time and windings made around a metal bar become too heavy and thick when trying to reach desired strength of electromagnets. Electromagnets also limit the choice of fabric, and in some case even their colour. Issue of the concept used for the collection also shown to be in use of Flora microboard in combination with an actuator (electromagnet) that requires more power than Flora transfers. Microboards should be used with modules created specifical-

ly for them and actuators that require a lot of power, like electromagnets, should be used with simple switches and preferably in clothes that offer more space for weight and size of the magnet. Accessibility of certain tools and components necessary for creating soft circuits turned out to be an issue even nowadays, when simple electronics like these are common. Online orders and cost of components make it complicated for small businesses to experiment with. Advanced knowledge of electronics and possibilities is in this case a definite advantage. After finalizing collection, platform was chosen as an appropriate way for presenting the collection. Separate garments become even more interactive, if customer contacts Fashtronics studio, studio that offers not only wearable electronics, but also workshops and tutorials. Customers can collaborate with the studio on creating their bespoke pieces. Inspiration taken from doomed inventors was not suppose to end up as literal as it has, however, final garments are understood more as a first prototype rather than a final design. After prototyping muslin garments, real fabric prototypes were constructed to be tested with electronics. Since working with electronics is another factor added to clothes, collection requires more prototypes in real fabric to figure out what changes need to be made in order to make the two functional.

7. REFLECTION

While creating the collection there were many upside-downs and unexpected issues with electronics as well as patterns and combination of the two. Chosen topic turned out to be very inspiring and interesting for further development in upcoming projects and collections. Importance of this “experiment” was its concept. Concept that made electronics part of a different field and created a strong base not only for single season, but for a whole company/ platform. Even though final garments do not perform the desired effect, knowledge learned during designing and constructing them, will be used as a base for continuing experimentations and maybe even launch of the company. During the project I obtained a very tough lesson in planning, predicting and making off something, that till now was only observed effect used by other designers. Thorough research showed to be useful, but insufficient time-frame and knowledge of the field was limiting the process and resulted in garments. Good idea was a collaboration with an engineer and reflected in solving many issues regarding electronics. Final lesson taken is, that electronics are not as easy as they seem, even when talking about basic circuits. In the future, Fashtronics or collections alike to “Dúmed collection will be definitely consulted with a team of engineers and people experienced with electronics to reach the desired effect.

8. BIBLIOGRAPHY BOOKS Braddock S. E. & Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Mahony M., 1998, Techno Textiles, Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design, Paperback edition, London, Thames and Hudson, ISBN 0-500-280960-7 Quinn B., 2012, Fashion futures, London, Merrell Publishers Limited, ISBN 978-1-8589-4563-7 Mattila H.R., 2006, Intelligent textiles and clothing, Cambridge, Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute, ISBN-13 978-1-84569-005-2 Hartman K., 2014,Wearable electronics, Design, prototype, and wear your own interactive garments, Sebastopol, Maker Media, ISBN 978-1-449-33651-6 Xiaoming Tao, 2005, Wearable electronics and photonics, Cambridge, Woodhead Publishing Ltd, ISBN 185573 605 5 Xiaoming Tao, 2001, Smart fibres, fabrics and clothing, Cambridge, Woodhead Publishing Ltd, ISBN 1 85573 546 6 Horrocks A. R. & Anand S. C., 2000, Handbooks of technical textiles, Cambridge, Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Abington Hall, ISBN 1 85573 385 4

WEBSITES http://www.thecoolist.com/the-tech-of-fashion-10-ways-technology-drives-tomorrows-fashion/ http://www.fashion-futurist.com/2015/05/wearable-tech-in-fashion-is-it-practical.html http://elektrocouture.com/collections/ https://etiberlin.wordpress.com/2015/08/22/el-wire-knitwear-a-collaboration/ https://fablab.berlin/en/workshops/23-3d-printing-introduction.html http://www.design-research-lab.org http://www.design-research-lab.org/projects/cushion-pressure-sensors/ http://www.design-research-lab.org/projects/architextiles/ http://etextilelounge.com/category/textile/ http://etextilelounge.com/how-to-make-a-pressure-sensor/ *** http://etextilelounge.com/prototyping-circuits/ http://www.adafruit.com/products/1069 *** 61

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ATTINY45-20PU/ATTINY45-20PU-ND/735465?cur=USD *** https://www.tinkersoup.de/en/webshop/welcome-page/ *** elektro https://www.sparkfun.com/categories/16 http://www.spikenzielabs.com/Catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=73&zenid=3f4fb24d8dc8b2ef2e36be26e2563d0b ** * robotics, etextile http://www.spikenzielabs.com/Catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=73 *** http://www.spikenzielabs.com/Catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=122_140 *** https://vimeo.com/106211887 *** glove, sensor http://cargocollective.com/lesiatrubat/E-TRACES-memories-of-dance http://inventorspot.com/articles/innovative-robotic-fabric-transforms-garments-automatons *** http://www.makershed.com/products/make-wearable-electronics http://tai-studio.org/index.php/projects/e-textile/fur-like-textile-sensors/ ******* http://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=1324 From Charlotte http://www.boredpanda.com/amazing-illustrations-using-one-continuous-line-by-mar%C3%ADa-josĂŠ-cabezas-follow-the-line/ one line drawing https://www.asme.org/engineering-topics/articles/technology-and-society/high-fashion-gets-hightech https://vimeo.com/37023465 ******** http://www.suckerpunchdaily.com/2013/03/12/intimacy-2-0/ http://www.gradozero.eu/gzenew/index.php?pg=shape_memory_polimer&lang=en http://www.gradozero.eu/gzenew/index.php?pg=shape_memory_polimer&lang=en http://www.plusea.at/?p=4038 http://www.dezeen.com/2013/04/03/hidden-orchestra-by-alice-labourel/ http://www.ted.com/talks/leah_buechley_how_to_sketch_with_electronics http://www.ted.com/talks/leah_buechley_how_to_sketch_with_electronics http://www.ted.com/talks/lucy_mcrae_how_can_technology_transform_the_human_body http://www.oddee.com/item_98738.aspx https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-D5E3XuCH9k https://vimeo.com/43936188 http://www.thesnugg.com/The-Combination-of-Fashion-and-Technology-Past-Present-and-Future.aspx http://www.businessinsider.com/inventors-killed-by-inventions-2014-9?op=1&IR=T http://www.iflscience.com/health-and-medicine/7-inventors-killed-their-own-inventions https://www.wearable-technologies.com/2015/03/a-look-at-smartclothing-for-2015/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qFW4zwXzLs&feature=youtu.be http://www.eie.polyu.edu.hk/~cktse/linear_circuits/main/node5.html#SECTION00131000000000000000 https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Introduction 62

9. LIST OF APPENDICES 1. Portfolio 2. Lookbook 3. Sketchbook 4. Website / platform 5. Sewn outfits

10. CONTACT

Collection by Margareta Sopkova

Tel: +421 944 081971 email: 186226@via.dk margareta.sopkova@gmail.com http://margaretasopkova.wix.com/portfolio photo — Ester Šabíková production — Kristína Balážová models — Kristína Balážová, Bára Tabačková, Janet Ama Akueson make up — Emese Gajdan