Helmut Lang Indesign report by Margarita Orlova

HELMUT LANG Helmut Lang Margarita Orlova BA Fashion marketing & communication, Level 5, 2019-20 Module title: 5FAMK003C Visual and video techniques Subject Coursework: CWK1 Teacher/s: Nicolas Godon Word count: 2364 1

INDEX Research 4-29

Editorial Brief 30-45

Editorial 46-53

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Lookbook 54-67

Minisite 68-73

Bibliography 74-75

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Corporate profile Helmut Lang was a designer from Austria who has opened his own brand in 1986.

The designer is known for the minimalist and deconstructivist designs which became rather revolutionary in the fashion world in 80-90’s.

The idea of simplicity in fashion became a new and rather criticized concept.

Fashion consumers were expecting to pay high prices for luxury, but their idea of luxury was defined by rather extravagant and pompous clothing.

Helmut Lang however was one of the first designer to ever have everyday clothing shown on the catwalks.

It is believed that Helmut Lang was a creator of the street style fashion.

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Market position Positioning Helmut Lang positions itself as a minimalist luxury brand. It targets “fashion conscious people who follow trends but want classic items”

The brand is attracting people with different backgrounds worldwide, both genders equally.

Helmut Lang is about timeless designs which also perfectly combine with the very strong influential and revolutionary history of the brand in the fashion industry. True fashion lovers and Lang’s fans enjoy the revolutionary history brand has as well as their timeless designs. Nevertheless, after Lang’s leaving, true fans have been very disappointed as the designs became less unique with new designers and less “Helmut Lang”, which is partially why Helmut Lang has been releasing archived garments, but did not came up with anything new nor nothing revolutionary the brand has used to be.

Consumers miss the personality the brand used to have.

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Helmut Lang 2018-2019 Very repetitive and boring, Commercial models

Helmut Lang in 90’s More diverse, has a personality, more colors and content ideas

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Competitors Helmut Lang’s direct competitors are Maison Margiela, Acne Studios, Jil Sander, JW Anderson, Celine, Alexander Wang, Sandro, Issey Miyake, Comme des Garcons, Calvin Klein, COS and others. Majority of the competitors have adapted to the new industry shift that is to do with focusing on the consumer instead of garments only.

The brands have also invented and maintained the uniqueness of their designs. Furthermore, the competitors have learned to communicate their lifestyles and values to the consumers, as well as maintaining their brand image and awareness, which Helmut Lang lacks.

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Colorful, unique, memorable, targeted for youth 9

Jil Sander has maintained the minimalism USP but their communication has changed. The brand has been exploring nature and scenarios to do with nature. Nevertheless, it matched the minimalism

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concept. For example, Prada has nature in their communication, but it is more vivid, involves bright flowers and plants; meanwhile minimalist Jil Sander plays around with water, grey rocks, sand and etc. This could also match Helmut Lang’s communication.

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Jil Sander has maintained their minimalist designs, but is very easily recognizable.

Furthermore, the brand has been incorporating 12

emotions and rather melancholic atmosphere in their campaigns and editorials.

Alexander wang is more edgy, and has a dark side equally as Helmut Lang. Nevertheless, the brand has learned how to target the millennials better through the choice of correct designs and also choice of models. Helmut Lang should especially think of a choice of models that will be complimenting the brand similar to how Alexander Wang does it. Correctly chosen models will reach the target better as well as help to promote it on the social media platforms.

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Current situation What’s happening

As mentioned previously, Helmut Lang is not having adequate communication with the consumers. Helmut Lang, the designer and the brand that started the “anti-fashion” movement, created the idea of street wear being luxury, and made minimalism popular has not adopted to the new marketing shift that requires focusing on the expression of the brand values and lifestyle.

Helmut Lang’s current promotion and publicity barely shows expression, most of the time is just a simple model with a white background.

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Solution proposal

Helmut Lang should focus on their exclusivity and details within minimalist designs, as it was in the past. It is impossible to ask Helmut Lang to become a permanent art director and main designer again, however they can invite him to create a capsule collection designed just by him. Instead of just dropping the archive collections, it would make more sense to be inspired by them and redo them or adapt them to the new 2020’s tastes and trends.

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Communication background Current communication Helmut Lang distributes the clothing line on their own website, and also luxury online retail platforms such as farfech, Selfridges&co, Ssense, YOOX and others. Maintaining exclusivity and sense of luxury is important for the brand. This Is the reason why the brand is not being aggressive, but rather subtle with their advertising. They only get published or advertise in reputable medias such as Vogue, W Magazine, Anothermag, I-D and etc.; which can be associated with their target, that is rather artistic, creative, sophisticated and can be describes as fashion insiders.

As mentioned earlier, Helmut Lang is a minimalist brand; so is the advertising and social media. It is usually a black and white picture that has a bold large brand’s logo; sometimes the colors of the logo have bright colors, such as neon pink and green, rarely red.

Recently the brand has been bringing back 90’s style a lot, but it seems to be done because they are almost desperate without Helmut Lang himself.

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HELMUT LANG

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Old communication Advertising and Communication in general was rather limited in the past.

Helmut Lang was relying on the PR, incorporation of the famous models that matched the brand character, and minimalist fashion shows which were unique and outstanding in the era of pompous bright fashion. The editorials and campaigns previously can be noticed to be more colorful and emotionally expressive.

HELMUT LANG

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Communication task Helmut Lang should create a capsule collection in a collaboration with Helmut Lang himself. They should maintain their minimalism approach, yet add the original details and codes within the apparel and communication.

For example instead of just plain jeans, originally Helmut Lang would add a black resin on top which would make it unique, and furthermore the editorial with the jeans would be having more emotions and meaning to the target. Ideally this capsule collection should bring the old Helmut Lang concepts

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but “translated� to the 2020 language and target.

Their design and visual language however is good enough and is very recognizable. Bold minimalist text, little variety of color therefore should be maintained. Although, perhaps Helmut Lang can play around with color blocking, since it matches their identity and also favors the modern tastes; nevertheless color blocking must be done in the color palette of Helmut Lang (shown below).

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HELMUTLANG

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TARGET M ARKET

Description

Loyal fashion insider

Age

20-30

Gender

M&F

Interests

Art, Streetwear, Haute Cuisine, Hype culture

Region

Europe

Profession

Fashion editor, Designer, Gastronomic manager, etc.

Income

4000-5000/month

Hobbies

Photography, Experimenting with hairstyles,spirituality.

Occupation

In relationships/ probably about to propose 23

The main goal is to maintain loyalty of the Helmut Lang fans as well as increase awareness of the other consumers. Helmut Lang used to be legendary and industry changing brand, but now it is not considered that way anymore. We do not want Helmut Lang to be associated with hype fashion and streetwear only, because it is more than that.

The idea is to invite the original designer to create an outstanding capsule collection for the 2020 spring/ summer, which will evoke nostalgic feeling of the fans 24

Goals from the 90s but also will be attractive enough to wear nowadays.

Furthermore, the collection will be supported with a creative editorial different to the previous ones, as well as with a catalog which will be directed to the consumers. Although ideally all projects end up with a increase in sales, this stage is not expected yet. It is more important to establish new more stable relationships with consumers at this stage; which will be measured via online and physical stores engagement.

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Inspiration Helmut Lang should be inspired of best practices of their competitors. They should think more what their target needs, which is the dream and art expression. The visual aspects should focus on the use of the Helmut Lang color palette and also incorporation of nature that would work well with the brand’s aesthetics. Furthermore,

Helmut Lang should think of the proper models choice, since they will be the face of the editorial and therefore the brand. Models that have unique physical features as well as high engagement and activity on the social media will help Helmut Lang to become relevant again.

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WHAT NOT TO DO no colors use that do not macth Helmut Lang’s color palette

no use of italics or romantic fonts

no cliche pretty models models must match Helmut Lang’s identity

avoid using blank meaningless backgrounds

avoid using overly gold no use of old models accessories and details only models that match silver is more target’s age preferable

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Research

07/01/2020-10/01/2020

Collection creation

13/01/2020-31/01/2020

Models casting

03/02/2020-07/02/2020

SCHEDULE AND DEADLINE

Editorial&Catalog production 10/02/2020-26/02/2020

Delivery

27/02/2020 (two weeks before publishing in case of unpredicted changes required by the client)

Estimated publishing 12/03/2020

January

February

March

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ditorial 30

“I take a risk“

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“I take a risk“

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Editorial brief

The editorial “I take a risk“ will be demonstrating the new capsule collection in a collaboration with Helmut Lang (the original designer). Nevertheless, the main focus of the editorial will be showing the new atmosphere and lifestyle of the brand; which is still minimalism but more interactive with nature and gastronomy, more creative and artistic (since Helmut Lang became an artist), and mainly more emotionally expressive.

The experimentation will be mainly done in the composition and poses of models, because old Helmut Lang editorials are too bland and simple.

Nevertheless, the editorial must maintain the original Helmut Lang color palette described on the previous pages.

The idea of the editorial is to show the recklessness, weirdness and uniqueness, through the choice of interesting poses, unusual models, unexpected locations, color blocking, new fresh ideas. The editorial goal is to remind that in 2020 Helmut Lang is again rebellious and innovative as it used to be in the 90s.

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Stylist New York based stylist Marie Chaix represented by Art Partner; should perfectly match the upcoming editorial. She owns a large portfolio that proves her large experience in the industry. Her portfolio includes working with Bottega Veneta, I-D magazine, The New York times, Vogue and etc.. Her style is rather minimalist but with a twist, which correctly matches the new concept of the capsule collection. She will be given garments to work with, and without a doubt she will create a good combination favoring the rest of the professionals working for the editorial. Furthermore, she has already worked with Gary Gill, the hair stylist, which will set up a friendlier and facilitated environment for the professionals.

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Model Casting The models for the shoot have to have a weird unique appearance.

Helmut Lang concept does not match the idea of traditional stigmatic beauty. Jazzelle Zanaughtti, Adut Akech and Yan Kumral will be

to also promote via shared media.

It is important for the editorial to have 2 woman and one man, since the brand focuses on both genders, nevertheless main focus is still on the female consumers.

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the perfect choice for the editorial for the next reasons. Firstly their appearance matches the description above. Secondly their skin eyes and hair colors will complement the color palette of the editorial and the garments. Lastly, the models are quite known in the social media world, which will help the editorial 37

Make-up and hair

New York based MUA Susie Sobol has already worked with Helmut Lang previously.

The editorial models would not require heavy makeup looks, but rather subtle natural looks, which Sobol stands out in. Natural glossy and wet looks are going to be 38

required from her.

Gary Gill is also New York based, and has worked with Marie Chaix already as mentioned previously. He has worked with different types of hair, and will know the necessary techniques for all

the races. The hair is going to be maintained natural, but will require a professional preparation beforehand to maintain untouched, since the editorial is going to be shot outside on the nature mainly, and perhaps incorporate water.

Gary Gill should consider weather conditions such as wind and air moisture, and also water incorporation.

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Preparation The shooting will happen in America since it is convenient for all the parties due to the location and cost saving concerns, in the nature locations of the art director. The locations must show plants, water, and sand.

Hypothetically it could be shot in the Weir Creek hot springs. Furthermore, few pictures must be shot in the studio, in the choice of art director and the rest of the crew.

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Time schedule The photoshoot dates will be chosen by the art director’s crew, nevertheless the deadline is 20/02/20 considering that the retouching crew will take up to a week.

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Art direction & Photography Art direction will be done by Helmut Lang. He is the one that gave the brand its birth and knows it the best. Since it is a unique capsule collection, he also has to participate in its artistic process, especially that he dedicated his life

to art already.

Helmut Lang must revise the archived campaigns and editorials of the brand in the 90’s to get inspired.

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The photographer is Yulia Gorbachenko. She is based in New York in the Artlist agency. She has impressive portfolio and the style that is exactly looked for this editorial.

She has a great editorials experience, and will sure help the brand to get published in the top luxury magazines.

Processing& Retouching

Will be done by Yulia Gorbachenko herself. She is an experienced professional that has outstanding works. Her photography and retouching style greatly matches the editorial vision.

YULIA GORBACHENKO

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Model direction

Page layout

Models must express emotions through their body positions. They poses must be geometric, complicated and unique. The models must avoid just standing straight, nevertheless the art director will direct them due to his own vision.

The images must be distributed either full-page or occasionally placing the images smaller than original size maintain the 3:2 dimension.

Ideally it must be distributed chaotically but not symmetrically and not more than 2-3 of these per editorial. Majorly all the images must be vertical A4. This type of design will relate more with the new modern style of layout and help connecting with the target. The example can be seen on the next pages.

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HELMUT LANG “I take a risk“

Art direction: Helmut Lang Photographer: Yulia Gorbachenko Stylist: Marie Chaix Model: Adut Akech MUA&Hair stylist: Susie Sobol& Gary Gill

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I TALK I SMILE I BITE I BITE YOUR LIP I BREATHE YOUR BREATH I SMELL YOU ON MY SKIN I TAKE A RISK 47

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Art direction: Helmut Lang Photographer: Yulia Gorbachenko Stylist: Marie Chaix Model: Jazelle Zanaghutti & Adut Akech MUA&Hair stylist: Susie Sobol& Gary Gill

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I WALK IN I SEE YOU I WATCH YOU I SCAN YOU I WAIT FOR YOU I TEASE YOU I BREATHE YOU I SMELL YOU ON MY SKIN I TAKE A RISK 50

Art direction: Helmut Lang Photographer: Yulia Gorbachenko Stylist: Marie Chaix Model: Jazelle Zanaghutti & Yan Kumral MUA&Hair stylist: Susie Sobol& Gary Gill

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HELMUT LANG

Art direction: Helmut Lang Photographer: Yulia Gorbachenko Stylist: Marie Chaix

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Lookbook brief Why a lookbook?

Previously the Brand has already made an editorial, thus repeating a similar concept through a catalogue would be pointless.

Catalogue is usually placed in the physical stores, which is not the best idea for Helmut Lang since the brand has a very limited amount of physical stores In the world, furthermore their current target for this campaign are online buyers.

Nevertheless, a collaboration with the Helmut Lang himself would be a hit in the fashion industry.

It may be predicted that true fashion experts and lovers will be desperately looking to buy the exclusive capsule collection since it’s a once in life opportunity.

High demand also means a desire of other stores to purchase few selective garments from the collection. Considering this situation Helmut Lang must own a lookbook that will be exclusively sent to several luxury multi brand stores, showrooms and concept stores around the world.

How should a lookbook look Considering that lookbook has a purpose with showing the garment in its true colours and shapes the lookbook should be minimalist and have a simple background. Luckily for the brand, Helmut Lang is a minimalist brand, which will only facilitate to portray the mood and brands identity. Nevertheless, this collection is going to be different from their normal style, since the designer wants to be more creative and innovative. The looksbook, generally, as a rule will be following the minimalist approach, but will be having several exceptions which you can observe on the next pages.

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Check coat and blue faux leather boots LOOK 1 REF 0278

Brown playsuit and Greek sandals LOOK 2 REF 0279

Geometric dress LOOK 3 REF 0280

Squared toe heels REF 0281

Ski jacket and Puffer skirt LOOK 4 REF 0282

Cow patterned twopiece set LOOK 5 REF 0283

Faux leather cape and faux leather boots LOOK 6 REF 0284

Pins earrings sterling silver 925 REF 0285

Ivory puffer cardigan LOOK 7 REF 0286

Color-blocked dress with shoulder accessories LOOK 8 REF 0287

Chain bracelet REF 0288

Red office squared dress and faux leather boots LOOK 9 REF 0288

HELMUT LANG WEBSITE

Website purpose

The purpose of the website it that can be seen below or by not to substitute the original visiting the link: website, but to entertain the https :// helmutlang . home . blog consumer and deliver them necessary information that won’t be found anywhere else otherwise. The website will have a purpose of explaining the collection and also to make the consumer to feel like he or she is the Helmut Lang “Insider”.

The website is going to consist of 5 main categories

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Homepage

Embedded URLs

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Website visuals

The website must be minimalist just like the majority of the visual codes of Helmut Lang.

Main visual colors of Helmut Lang are black and white, thus so must be the website.

Furthermore, the font and size of the website have to be sans serif and headings must be bold and large. The font used for this website is “Karla�. Neon green color may be used occasionally for the quotes, important information and some headings.

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Images, equally as in the previous visual language of Helmut Lang, have to be located either perfectly symmetrical or slightly chaotical, but always geometrical.

Rounded and soft edges are strictly prohibited.

Feeling Helmut Lang through music

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Engaging quizzes

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Search for new talents

see more at : https://helmutlang.home.blog 73

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