Acne
X Barbara Kruger
MarĂa Lozano Rojas InDesign Nicolas Godon BA Fashion Marketing & Communication Level 5 2016-2017
Content
About the Brand Editorial Catalogue Minisite References
Ambition to Create Novel Expressions
A
cne Studios is a ciplinary vision and image they had multidisciplinary since the beginnings. luxury
fashion
“ACNE” stands for “Ambition to Cre-
house,
Stockholm
ate Novel Expressions”. The name fits
based, founded in 1996 by Jonny
the multidisciplinary vision as it proves
Johansson.
that there is an interest in every artistic
It started as a creative collective
and cultural aspect including photog-
which focused on film, advertising,
raphy, architecture, art and contempo-
production and graphic design.
rary culture. Their main goal is to dig
Nowadays, Acne focuses on ready-
into those fields to create something,
to-wear collections, accessories,
with expression and meaning. There is
jeans, footwear, furniture, maga- a mix between art and industry. zines, books and exhibitions. The brand still conserves the multidis-
“Today, [brands are] expected to be able to just start at the place where they’re supposed to end up. We never thought that way. We still don’t think that way.” -Jonny Johansson
Market Position
Acne belongs to the luxury fashion market. They stand out from their competitors because it is an eclectic and inclusive brand. Their ambition of exploring creativity in artistic fields is one of the reasons why they have reached an international recognition. They have collaborated with artists that represent the essence of the brand: focus on the details, minimalist style, creativity, and authenticity. In addition, Acne is different from the competiton due to the lack of advertising and promotion. Instead, they produce their own magazine named ACNE paper.
Current Situation
Nowadays, Acne Studios is still run by Jonny Johansson. They deliver ready-to-wear products for men and women. The brand has worldwide flagship stores in cities such as Paris, New York, Oslo, Melbourne, Tokyo and Seoul among others. In 2016, Acne did three shows in Paris, including F/W, S/S and Resort collections. Along the year, Acne releases capsule collections, sold in their own flagship stores, e-commerce and selected online luxury stores. Even though the brand has spread globally, they still conserve the main brand values image which focuses on the quality and look of the products.
Communication Background
Acne does not advertise in fash-
Acne Studios shoots campaigns
ion magazines. The product and
for the different collections, how-
its added values constitute the
ever the only place where this
brand’s main message to its cus-
campaigns are shown is in Acne’s
tomers, a message that should be
social media networks, and street
consistent and clear. They believe
advertising in key cities such as
advertising would hurt the brand’s
New York, London and Paris.
reputation since shifts tend to confuse customers.
Through social media Acne also conserves the minimalist and slow
They produces “ACNE Paper” a
design in order to communicate
bi-annual publication. It is a large
the same message in the different
format magazine that is focus on
omnichannels, focusing only on
fashion, editorials and photogra-
the products, fashion shows and
phy. Acne Paper also consists of
the campaigns for the collections.
personal stories and experiences
They make simplicity part of the
of the Acne Family.
brand’s DNA.
Communication Task “The Message” Acne will use irony and sarcasm
ra Kruger, who is the mastermind
as a medium to send messages.
behind the b&w photographs with
They are not the typical fashion
bold font in red text bars.
brand as they do not advertise.
The brand will collaborate with
This is a way of defying the fash-
her, to show a different side from
ion rules. Acne will communicate
Acne. It will not be about the prod-
their real thoughts about fash-
uct, but rather about the brand
ion by making fun of themselves
identity and values. Acne will de-
through ironic aphorisms.
liver the reasons why they are not
Acne Studios will do a collabo-
just another fashion brand.
ration with American artist Barba-
“I think I developed language skills to deal with threat. It’s the girl thing to do-you know, instead of pulling out a gun.” - Barbara Kruger.
Target Market The target is people who have an interest not only in fashion but in contemportary art. Acne needs to adress to people who understand irony, who are aware of the real world, not the fantasy that has been created. It might also capture the attention of people who do not know about the brand, but are familiar with Kruger’s work.
About The Artist
Barbara Kruger was born in 1945 in Newark, New Jersey.
such as feminism, consumerism, classicism and egocen-
In 1980, Kruger created her
trism or narcissism. She uses
signature style. She began using
mainstream photographs from
large-scale, b&w photographs,
magazines, in which she finds
which were juxtaposed with
disrupted messages about sex-
ironic and pithy messages, writ-
ism, misogyny and culture. Be-
ten in Futura Bold font, in a red,
sides, to deliver a quite person-
black or white background.
al message she uses pronouns
Kruger focuses mainly on criticizing and emphasizing themes
such as they, your, or we.
What Not To Do
Acne has to be careful on failing
are known for the terrible working
with the messages they want to send.
conditions in factories and overpro-
It often happens, that the message
duction in South Asia. Meaning that
delivered is not understood by the
the message of “recycling” and “sus-
reciper the way the sender meant to.
tainability” is not trustable at all when
For instance, Reebok released a campaign that suggested “cheat on
it comes from a fast fashion brand pioneer as H&M.
your girlfriend, not on your workouts”.
Besides, the artist was not the right
Their focus was on not skiping a work-
one. M.I.A is an activist, who talks
out, however the message was deliv-
about social and political issues, and
ered with the wrong words and ended
does not represent the values of the
up in a sexist campaign.
brand. From a marketing perspective, it seems that H&M worked with
On the other hand, H&M released a
M.I.A not exactly because of what the
song featuring M.I.A for their initiative
cause was about, but rather because
“World Recycle Week”, which con-
it was a way to gain credibility about
sists on recycling old clothes.
being a conscious fashion brand.
H&M is a fast fashion brand, which
Where To Look For Inspiration
The main inspiration for the
campaign, it will be a movement.
collection will be the brands past
As an inspiration Acne will look
campaigns, own values and be-
up to brands such as Vetements
liefs. What they stand for and their
which constantly delivers state-
thoughts on fashion and other cul-
ments messages through their
tural topics are essentials for de-
clothes,
livering aphorisms.
brands like Off-White and The Life
and
other
upcoming
of Pablo merchandise. Acne will look for past cam-
Inspiration for the aphorisims
paigns of brands such as Balen-
can be looked in Kruger’s past
ciaga, and CĂŠline.
work as well.
Simplicity is still key, however the pastel colorful palette Acne is known for will be avoided. We will rather focus, on black and white garments. More than a clothing
Editorial Brief
T
he editorial for i-D
ferent message that will make peo-
magazine
ple think.
done
with
will
be
Jonny
The photographs will be in black
Johansson art di-
and white, to deliver a nostalgic
rection and with the collaboration
and more rough feeling. Black is as-
of Barbara Kruger. In the editorial
sociated with power, authority and
both artists will create the ironic
strenghts, and white is associated
aphorisms about the fashion indus-
with peace and righteousness.
try.
The editorial should express power, it is a statement and even
The editorial will be mostly about
a movement impossible to avoide
Acne Studios, but the brand will
because of the truth in every mes-
work with other brands such as
sage.
CĂŠline, and Chanel in order to deliver a fashion editorial with a dif-
Models
Stylist
Lotta Volkova will be the stylist for the editorial. Her signature statement is “bad taste and good clothes”. This editorial, wont be about having a beautiful asthetic, but rather about clothes that are wearable, desirable, fashionable,
and
with
statement
messages. According to Volkova the work should be “easy, natural, coher-
ent and organic”. Brands that design the type of clothes we wish our collection to look like, are mostly Vetements, Stella McCartney S/S 17, Hood By Air Spring 17, Supreme, The Life Of Pablo Merchandise.
Hair & Makeup
The hairstyle for the editorial will mostly be hair pulled back, but also pixie cuts will be included.
Models should look like they are not trying to look pretty. There will be no makeup to embrace the idea of the reality that is trying to be send through the messages/aphorisms.They will look very natural.
Preparation & Location
The location of the editorial will be an studio in Paris. The backgrounds will be plain black, white and grey. There won’t be any added objects or patterns. The photographer will be Juergen Teller, who is a fashion photographer known for this raw pictures for brands such as Marc Jacobs and CÊline. Food, as well as hydratation will be provided all day long for every assistant or worker.
Time Schedule
The meeting time will be 6:40 AM in the studio, to ensure that by 7:00 AM everyone from models, to photographer, hair and makeup stylist, stylist, and the rest of the workers will be there. From 7:00 AM to 8:00 AM will be the time designed for the models to get ready including hair, makeup and clothes. By 8:15 AM the shooting will start. Approximately it will finish at 5:00 PM, including lunch, snack breaks, and change of outfits.
Model Direction
The most important thing about the models will be their facial expressions and body movements. Models should express the feeling of emptiness, the feeling of “nothing�. They have to look like they are not trying anything, not to be pretty not to look sexy. Models have to be very real, as they would be when they just wake up for instance. For this, the face and body is key so they express and show real life, and real peope
Art Direction
The art director will make sure that the atmosphere of the shoot is very ironic, things that you can make pithy observations about. He has to ensure that simplicity is still a must. but that a fresh and nice aesthetic is not a must and is not required. The photographs will be taken in b&w. A total of 10 outfits will be used during the shooting.
Post Shooting
Processing The color temperature, wont be too important as the pictures will be in black and white. However, we will focus on the images that have a better contrast, exposure, a flatter light and a darker black. The process of choosing and discarding will be done.
Retouching Retouching in Photoshop will be done to have a better edition of every single photograph. Also, at this point the retouching team will improve the b&w feels, such as making the darkers darker, increasing contrast, underxposing, and some added effects.
Layout
The layout of i-D Magazine which is where the editorial will be featured, is made up of a balance between text and images. Some pages, are exclusively dedicated for text in order to explain what the editorial is about, and pages exclusive for pictures.
i-D Magazine Issue No. 332 1st editorial
Has
it
ever
cross
your mind the idea that you are living your life upon pre-
state rules? You are not defining your life, society is doing it for you. That is the reason why, we are all blinded and we conform with whatever society transmits us.
WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR Nipples
are
sexual?
Ah
Okay.
Haute
Couture
makes
you
more
import-
ant? Ah Okay I’ll buy some then. He likes fashion so he is gay? Ah, if you say so
Dolupid
es
rae
laut
faccum
impos
mosti
illicie
ndelece
rume-
tures sit voluptatur alit restiam faccumqui dus et ratur maximi, sum quatqui qui quos exernam que perchicienda conectatia quo omnihil .
STOP BEING BLIND, OPEN YOUR EYES TO REALITY
Styling: Lotta Volkova Acne Studios Fall 2017 Blazer $1200 Cotton Shirt $830 Trousers $1450 Model: Lena Hardt (AmModel) Photographer: Juergen Teller
Styling: Lotta Volkova Acne Studios Fall 2016 Cotton Shirt $850 CĂŠline Scarf $520 Model: Molly Bair Photographer: Juergen Teller
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tatem reperum que eum voluptat. Oloritati to beaquatenim fugiaes torepel ignimus. Ro ium venet di beatur? To modis ut dolorem alic tendelia aliquis nonessi
dis disitia sinulparum a cum natur anda
Atecab inulparum sus quat.
voluptatiam audae maiossi nihilliquae
Evenesti dolloru mquias voluptaeriam
natio imendebit quam, simpore liquat
voluptaquas est as dioreris prerit occa-
lautae sequibus es sum, ommostr up-
bo. Itatio blamende sinto quae. Sum lati-
A mind is a terrible thing to waste Dic to beatusam arum ut qui voluptur rempeliae corum et vit esequunt que cuptur autemporum aut vidis volorru
pel ignimus. Ro ium venet di beatur? To modis ut dolorem alic tendelia aliquis nonessi
mendit, odis vero quo blaut laborum quia
Atecab inulparum sus quat.
nullentem quas delita ipiet del inctatet
Evenesti dolloru mquias voluptaeriam
dis disitia sinulparum a cum natur anda
voluptaquas est as dioreris prerit occa-
voluptatiam audae maiossi nihilliquae
bo. Itatio blamende sinto quae. Sum latiur
natio imendebit quam, simpore liquat lau-
rempore hendam, suntum con reiciis do-
tae sequibus es sum, ommostr uptatem
luptatet, officiur, sum dolore omnis natis
reperum que eum voluptat.
que sam quiat quos ellorpos quid ullau-
Oloritati to beaquatenim fugiaes tore-
tassim repellaut eaquibus re de volorae
Styling: Lotta Volkova Acne Studios Coat $4300 Chanel Glasses $500 CĂŠline Purse $1500 Loewe Bracelet $500 Ring $800 Model: Natalie Wrestling Photographer: Juergen Teller
Styling: Lotta Volkova Acne Studios Fall 2017 Coat + Scarf $3000 Model: Shaun Ross Photographer: Juergen Teller
Styling: Lotta Volkova Acne Studios Fall 2017 Coat + Scarf $3000 Model: Papis Loveday Photographer: Juergen Teller
Catalogue ger will still be included, however the red In order to conserve the simplicity, the
blocks will be avoided to focus the atten-
catalogue will be clean and sober, with a main focus on the products.
tion on the garments. The pithy observations and aphorisims
Black and white images will be used to
will be used in a different way achieving
have the same feel in both the editorial
that consumers will have their attention
and the catalogue.
first on the produts, and after on the sen-
The collaboration with Barbara Kru-
tences.
HAIRSTYLE Some models will have hair pulled back,
LOCATION The pictures will be taken in the same studio as the editorial in Paris. No backgrounds will be used in this ocassion in order to be very sober and simple
STYLING The styling will be done by Lotta Volko-
others all down in a sleek way, and others will have a pixie cut.
MAKEUP Models makeup will be a “no-makeup� look, very natural.
ABOUT
va. The aim of the catalogue is for the
The catalogue will be available in stores all
clothes to look comfortable, easy to use.
around the world. When purchasing products
Being at the same time effortless, mean-
via e-commerce and physically a catalogue
ing that each piece has a personality and
will be given to the purchaser. Through the
there is no need for eccentricity.
main social networks: Instagram and Facebook, teasers of the catalogue will be posted to create expectations about what is coming next.
Catalogue Preview
now that I have your attention, gender is irrelevant, ads are too commercial, sex sells, ads are too commercial
fashion over function, lost without my purse, everythig youre doing we did it ten years ago, i shop therefore I am
now that I have your attention, these e a r r i n g s weight more than my face
now that I have your attention, those are luxurious harlequin shoes
Minisite ers can see some of the garments availnowthatihaveyourattentionblog.
able via catalogue and can be direct-
wordpress.com is the minisite for the
ed to Acne’s Facebook, Instagram and
new Acne FW17 Campaign. The minisite
Twitter page to continue the search for
is simple. and easy to follow.
products.
The main purpose is to show the cam-
It is an informative website rath-
paign done in collaboration with artist
er than interactive as there is no blog
Barbara Kruger, and explain the reason
posts, and there will not be updates or
behind it.
new pages added.
Besides, the products also have their own page within the website, so the us-
http://nowthatihaveyourattentionblog.wordpress.com/
Structure
this campaign about.
The minisite structure is easy to fol-
Besides, all the pictures made exclu-
low. It consists of a homepage which
sively for the campaign are included
shows the main image of the campaign,
in the FW 2017 Campaign, and the FW
with a short description of what “Now
2017 Catalogue is another page includ-
That I Have Your Attention” is. From
ed in the minisite. Very simple, and in-
there a direct link will take you to the
formative which is the main objective of
“about” to understand in deep what is
the site.
Minisite screen captures
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