InDesign / Maria Lozano - Acne Studios

Page 1

Acne

X Barbara Kruger


MarĂ­a Lozano Rojas InDesign Nicolas Godon BA Fashion Marketing & Communication Level 5 2016-2017


Content

About the Brand Editorial Catalogue Minisite References



Ambition to Create Novel Expressions

A

cne Studios is a ciplinary vision and image they had multidisciplinary since the beginnings. luxury

fashion

“ACNE” stands for “Ambition to Cre-

house,

Stockholm

ate Novel Expressions”. The name fits

based, founded in 1996 by Jonny

the multidisciplinary vision as it proves

Johansson.

that there is an interest in every artistic

It started as a creative collective

and cultural aspect including photog-

which focused on film, advertising,

raphy, architecture, art and contempo-

production and graphic design.

rary culture. Their main goal is to dig

Nowadays, Acne focuses on ready-

into those fields to create something,

to-wear collections, accessories,

with expression and meaning. There is

jeans, footwear, furniture, maga- a mix between art and industry. zines, books and exhibitions. The brand still conserves the multidis-


“Today, [brands are] expected to be able to just start at the place where they’re supposed to end up. We never thought that way. We still don’t think that way.” -Jonny Johansson

Market Position

Acne belongs to the luxury fashion market. They stand out from their competitors because it is an eclectic and inclusive brand. Their ambition of exploring creativity in artistic fields is one of the reasons why they have reached an international recognition. They have collaborated with artists that represent the essence of the brand: focus on the details, minimalist style, creativity, and authenticity. In addition, Acne is different from the competiton due to the lack of advertising and promotion. Instead, they produce their own magazine named ACNE paper.


Current Situation

Nowadays, Acne Studios is still run by Jonny Johansson. They deliver ready-to-wear products for men and women. The brand has worldwide flagship stores in cities such as Paris, New York, Oslo, Melbourne, Tokyo and Seoul among others. In 2016, Acne did three shows in Paris, including F/W, S/S and Resort collections. Along the year, Acne releases capsule collections, sold in their own flagship stores, e-commerce and selected online luxury stores. Even though the brand has spread globally, they still conserve the main brand values image which focuses on the quality and look of the products.


Communication Background

Acne does not advertise in fash-

Acne Studios shoots campaigns

ion magazines. The product and

for the different collections, how-

its added values constitute the

ever the only place where this

brand’s main message to its cus-

campaigns are shown is in Acne’s

tomers, a message that should be

social media networks, and street

consistent and clear. They believe

advertising in key cities such as

advertising would hurt the brand’s

New York, London and Paris.

reputation since shifts tend to confuse customers.

Through social media Acne also conserves the minimalist and slow

They produces “ACNE Paper” a

design in order to communicate

bi-annual publication. It is a large

the same message in the different

format magazine that is focus on

omnichannels, focusing only on

fashion, editorials and photogra-

the products, fashion shows and

phy. Acne Paper also consists of

the campaigns for the collections.

personal stories and experiences

They make simplicity part of the

of the Acne Family.

brand’s DNA.



Communication Task “The Message” Acne will use irony and sarcasm

ra Kruger, who is the mastermind

as a medium to send messages.

behind the b&w photographs with

They are not the typical fashion

bold font in red text bars.

brand as they do not advertise.

The brand will collaborate with

This is a way of defying the fash-

her, to show a different side from

ion rules. Acne will communicate

Acne. It will not be about the prod-

their real thoughts about fash-

uct, but rather about the brand

ion by making fun of themselves

identity and values. Acne will de-

through ironic aphorisms.

liver the reasons why they are not

Acne Studios will do a collabo-

just another fashion brand.

ration with American artist Barba-

“I think I developed language skills to deal with threat. It’s the girl thing to do-you know, instead of pulling out a gun.” - Barbara Kruger.

Target Market The target is people who have an interest not only in fashion but in contemportary art. Acne needs to adress to people who understand irony, who are aware of the real world, not the fantasy that has been created. It might also capture the attention of people who do not know about the brand, but are familiar with Kruger’s work.


About The Artist

Barbara Kruger was born in 1945 in Newark, New Jersey.

such as feminism, consumerism, classicism and egocen-

In 1980, Kruger created her

trism or narcissism. She uses

signature style. She began using

mainstream photographs from

large-scale, b&w photographs,

magazines, in which she finds

which were juxtaposed with

disrupted messages about sex-

ironic and pithy messages, writ-

ism, misogyny and culture. Be-

ten in Futura Bold font, in a red,

sides, to deliver a quite person-

black or white background.

al message she uses pronouns

Kruger focuses mainly on criticizing and emphasizing themes

such as they, your, or we.


What Not To Do

Acne has to be careful on failing

are known for the terrible working

with the messages they want to send.

conditions in factories and overpro-

It often happens, that the message

duction in South Asia. Meaning that

delivered is not understood by the

the message of “recycling” and “sus-

reciper the way the sender meant to.

tainability” is not trustable at all when

For instance, Reebok released a campaign that suggested “cheat on

it comes from a fast fashion brand pioneer as H&M.

your girlfriend, not on your workouts”.

Besides, the artist was not the right

Their focus was on not skiping a work-

one. M.I.A is an activist, who talks

out, however the message was deliv-

about social and political issues, and

ered with the wrong words and ended

does not represent the values of the

up in a sexist campaign.

brand. From a marketing perspective, it seems that H&M worked with

On the other hand, H&M released a

M.I.A not exactly because of what the

song featuring M.I.A for their initiative

cause was about, but rather because

“World Recycle Week”, which con-

it was a way to gain credibility about

sists on recycling old clothes.

being a conscious fashion brand.

H&M is a fast fashion brand, which



Where To Look For Inspiration

The main inspiration for the

campaign, it will be a movement.

collection will be the brands past

As an inspiration Acne will look

campaigns, own values and be-

up to brands such as Vetements

liefs. What they stand for and their

which constantly delivers state-

thoughts on fashion and other cul-

ments messages through their

tural topics are essentials for de-

clothes,

livering aphorisms.

brands like Off-White and The Life

and

other

upcoming

of Pablo merchandise. Acne will look for past cam-

Inspiration for the aphorisims

paigns of brands such as Balen-

can be looked in Kruger’s past

ciaga, and CĂŠline.

work as well.

Simplicity is still key, however the pastel colorful palette Acne is known for will be avoided. We will rather focus, on black and white garments. More than a clothing



Editorial Brief

T

he editorial for i-D

ferent message that will make peo-

magazine

ple think.

done

with

will

be

Jonny

The photographs will be in black

Johansson art di-

and white, to deliver a nostalgic

rection and with the collaboration

and more rough feeling. Black is as-

of Barbara Kruger. In the editorial

sociated with power, authority and

both artists will create the ironic

strenghts, and white is associated

aphorisms about the fashion indus-

with peace and righteousness.

try.

The editorial should express power, it is a statement and even

The editorial will be mostly about

a movement impossible to avoide

Acne Studios, but the brand will

because of the truth in every mes-

work with other brands such as

sage.

CĂŠline, and Chanel in order to deliver a fashion editorial with a dif-



Models


Stylist

Lotta Volkova will be the stylist for the editorial. Her signature statement is “bad taste and good clothes”. This editorial, wont be about having a beautiful asthetic, but rather about clothes that are wearable, desirable, fashionable,

and

with

statement

messages. According to Volkova the work should be “easy, natural, coher-

ent and organic”. Brands that design the type of clothes we wish our collection to look like, are mostly Vetements, Stella McCartney S/S 17, Hood By Air Spring 17, Supreme, The Life Of Pablo Merchandise.


Hair & Makeup

The hairstyle for the editorial will mostly be hair pulled back, but also pixie cuts will be included.

Models should look like they are not trying to look pretty. There will be no makeup to embrace the idea of the reality that is trying to be send through the messages/aphorisms.They will look very natural.


Preparation & Location

The location of the editorial will be an studio in Paris. The backgrounds will be plain black, white and grey. There won’t be any added objects or patterns. The photographer will be Juergen Teller, who is a fashion photographer known for this raw pictures for brands such as Marc Jacobs and CÊline. Food, as well as hydratation will be provided all day long for every assistant or worker.


Time Schedule

The meeting time will be 6:40 AM in the studio, to ensure that by 7:00 AM everyone from models, to photographer, hair and makeup stylist, stylist, and the rest of the workers will be there. From 7:00 AM to 8:00 AM will be the time designed for the models to get ready including hair, makeup and clothes. By 8:15 AM the shooting will start. Approximately it will finish at 5:00 PM, including lunch, snack breaks, and change of outfits.


Model Direction

The most important thing about the models will be their facial expressions and body movements. Models should express the feeling of emptiness, the feeling of “nothing�. They have to look like they are not trying anything, not to be pretty not to look sexy. Models have to be very real, as they would be when they just wake up for instance. For this, the face and body is key so they express and show real life, and real peope


Art Direction

The art director will make sure that the atmosphere of the shoot is very ironic, things that you can make pithy observations about. He has to ensure that simplicity is still a must. but that a fresh and nice aesthetic is not a must and is not required. The photographs will be taken in b&w. A total of 10 outfits will be used during the shooting.


Post Shooting

Processing The color temperature, wont be too important as the pictures will be in black and white. However, we will focus on the images that have a better contrast, exposure, a flatter light and a darker black. The process of choosing and discarding will be done.

Retouching Retouching in Photoshop will be done to have a better edition of every single photograph. Also, at this point the retouching team will improve the b&w feels, such as making the darkers darker, increasing contrast, underxposing, and some added effects.


Layout

The layout of i-D Magazine which is where the editorial will be featured, is made up of a balance between text and images. Some pages, are exclusively dedicated for text in order to explain what the editorial is about, and pages exclusive for pictures.


i-D Magazine Issue No. 332 1st editorial



Has

it

ever

cross

your mind the idea that you are living your life upon pre-

state rules? You are not defining your life, society is doing it for you. That is the reason why, we are all blinded and we conform with whatever society transmits us.

WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR Nipples

are

sexual?

Ah

Okay.

Haute

Couture

makes

you

more

import-

ant? Ah Okay I’ll buy some then. He likes fashion so he is gay? Ah, if you say so

Dolupid

es

rae

laut

faccum

impos

mosti

illicie

ndelece

rume-

tures sit voluptatur alit restiam faccumqui dus et ratur maximi, sum quatqui qui quos exernam que perchicienda conectatia quo omnihil .

STOP BEING BLIND, OPEN YOUR EYES TO REALITY


Styling: Lotta Volkova Acne Studios Fall 2017 Blazer $1200 Cotton Shirt $830 Trousers $1450 Model: Lena Hardt (AmModel) Photographer: Juergen Teller


Styling: Lotta Volkova Acne Studios Fall 2016 Cotton Shirt $850 CĂŠline Scarf $520 Model: Molly Bair Photographer: Juergen Teller


Dic to beatusam arum ut qui voluptur rempeliae corum et vit esequunt que cuptur autemporum aut vidis volorru mendit, odis vero quo blaut laborum quia nullentem quas delita ipiet del inctatet

tatem reperum que eum voluptat. Oloritati to beaquatenim fugiaes torepel ignimus. Ro ium venet di beatur? To modis ut dolorem alic tendelia aliquis nonessi

dis disitia sinulparum a cum natur anda

Atecab inulparum sus quat.

voluptatiam audae maiossi nihilliquae

Evenesti dolloru mquias voluptaeriam

natio imendebit quam, simpore liquat

voluptaquas est as dioreris prerit occa-

lautae sequibus es sum, ommostr up-

bo. Itatio blamende sinto quae. Sum lati-

A mind is a terrible thing to waste Dic to beatusam arum ut qui voluptur rempeliae corum et vit esequunt que cuptur autemporum aut vidis volorru

pel ignimus. Ro ium venet di beatur? To modis ut dolorem alic tendelia aliquis nonessi

mendit, odis vero quo blaut laborum quia

Atecab inulparum sus quat.

nullentem quas delita ipiet del inctatet

Evenesti dolloru mquias voluptaeriam

dis disitia sinulparum a cum natur anda

voluptaquas est as dioreris prerit occa-

voluptatiam audae maiossi nihilliquae

bo. Itatio blamende sinto quae. Sum latiur

natio imendebit quam, simpore liquat lau-

rempore hendam, suntum con reiciis do-

tae sequibus es sum, ommostr uptatem

luptatet, officiur, sum dolore omnis natis

reperum que eum voluptat.

que sam quiat quos ellorpos quid ullau-

Oloritati to beaquatenim fugiaes tore-

tassim repellaut eaquibus re de volorae


Styling: Lotta Volkova Acne Studios Coat $4300 Chanel Glasses $500 CĂŠline Purse $1500 Loewe Bracelet $500 Ring $800 Model: Natalie Wrestling Photographer: Juergen Teller


Styling: Lotta Volkova Acne Studios Fall 2017 Coat + Scarf $3000 Model: Shaun Ross Photographer: Juergen Teller


Styling: Lotta Volkova Acne Studios Fall 2017 Coat + Scarf $3000 Model: Papis Loveday Photographer: Juergen Teller


Catalogue ger will still be included, however the red In order to conserve the simplicity, the

blocks will be avoided to focus the atten-

catalogue will be clean and sober, with a main focus on the products.

tion on the garments. The pithy observations and aphorisims

Black and white images will be used to

will be used in a different way achieving

have the same feel in both the editorial

that consumers will have their attention

and the catalogue.

first on the produts, and after on the sen-

The collaboration with Barbara Kru-

tences.

HAIRSTYLE Some models will have hair pulled back,

LOCATION The pictures will be taken in the same studio as the editorial in Paris. No backgrounds will be used in this ocassion in order to be very sober and simple

STYLING The styling will be done by Lotta Volko-

others all down in a sleek way, and others will have a pixie cut.

MAKEUP Models makeup will be a “no-makeup� look, very natural.

ABOUT

va. The aim of the catalogue is for the

The catalogue will be available in stores all

clothes to look comfortable, easy to use.

around the world. When purchasing products

Being at the same time effortless, mean-

via e-commerce and physically a catalogue

ing that each piece has a personality and

will be given to the purchaser. Through the

there is no need for eccentricity.

main social networks: Instagram and Facebook, teasers of the catalogue will be posted to create expectations about what is coming next.


Catalogue Preview


now that I have your attention, gender is irrelevant, ads are too commercial, sex sells, ads are too commercial




fashion over function, lost without my purse, everythig youre doing we did it ten years ago, i shop therefore I am






now that I have your attention, these e a r r i n g s weight more than my face




now that I have your attention, those are luxurious harlequin shoes


Minisite ers can see some of the garments availnowthatihaveyourattentionblog.

able via catalogue and can be direct-

wordpress.com is the minisite for the

ed to Acne’s Facebook, Instagram and

new Acne FW17 Campaign. The minisite

Twitter page to continue the search for

is simple. and easy to follow.

products.

The main purpose is to show the cam-

It is an informative website rath-

paign done in collaboration with artist

er than interactive as there is no blog

Barbara Kruger, and explain the reason

posts, and there will not be updates or

behind it.

new pages added.

Besides, the products also have their own page within the website, so the us-

http://nowthatihaveyourattentionblog.wordpress.com/

Structure

this campaign about.

The minisite structure is easy to fol-

Besides, all the pictures made exclu-

low. It consists of a homepage which

sively for the campaign are included

shows the main image of the campaign,

in the FW 2017 Campaign, and the FW

with a short description of what “Now

2017 Catalogue is another page includ-

That I Have Your Attention” is. From

ed in the minisite. Very simple, and in-

there a direct link will take you to the

formative which is the main objective of

“about” to understand in deep what is

the site.


Minisite screen captures






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