TICK OFF

Off Tick

There are very few things as revolting as finding a big fat tick on your pet. They are, at best, annoying and repulsive and, at worst, can transmit serious diseases. Although they occur all year around, summer in sunny South Africa is prime time for these eight-legged pests that drink blood. Fortunately, there is much we can do to protect ourselves and stay safe while still enjoying the great outdoors.

Know Your Enemy

Ticks are arachnids (the same family as spiders), which live on the blood of mammals, birds, amphibians and reptiles. There are around 900 types of tick on earth, most of which pose no threat to us. You’ll find them in low-growing bush - and scrubland, tall grass, ferns, fallen leaves, shady woodlands, and meadows – pretty much anywhere in SA. They require humidity in order to metamorphose from egg to larva and to stay hydrated, so warm, moist climates are ideal – summer rainfall areas are their favourites as well as springtime after winter rainfall.

They’re a pretty diverse group, ranging in size from 3mm to 6mm in length, although nymphs (the stage between larva and adult) can be so small that they’re near impossible to see (‘pepper ticks’). They can have hard or soft bodies, be plain or patterned, and vary in colour from yellow, grey, and beige, to brown and black; they tend to look blue-grey-green when full of blood. Ticks have a complex life cycle involving several hosts and habitats, which takes place over a few months. As a result, it is impossible to control them in the environment, and their exposure to multiple hosts and potential pathogens means that they could be carrying any number of diseases.

The most commonly problematic ticks in SA are the kennel or brown tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus), which can transmit the parasite Babesia spp. and the bacteria Ehrlichia spp., the yellow dog tick (Haemaphysalis elliptica), which can transmit babesia, and the bont tick (Amblyomma hebraeum), which can transmit Rickettsia africae (African tick bite fever) bacteria to humans.

Tick-bite timeline

To understand why ticks can make us sick, we need to know how they feed:

1. The tick cuts a hole in the host’s skin with its mouth parts. Most of the time, the host does not notice this bite. 2. A hard, barbed structure near its mouth, called a hypostome, is inserted into the host.

3. It injects its saliva which contains an anaesthetic so that the host won’t realise it’s there, and an anticoagulant to keep the blood flowing. Some ticks also secrete a cement-like substance to help them stay attached. If the tick is carrying a transmissible pathogen, it too can be injected along with the saliva. Transmission is usually not instantaneous – it takes anything

from 3 to 48 hours, so speedy removal can prevent your pet from getting sick, even if the tick was carrying a pathogen (disease-causing organism). 4. The tick keeps drinking via the hypostome for up to 10 days. If the host (dog, human, rodent, etc.) has a blood borne pathogen, it is ingested along with the blood and incubates in the tick.

5. Once full, the tick drops off and either continues with the next stage of its development or seeks out a new host, when it can transmit the pathogen that it ingested from the previous host. Ticks can carry and transmit several diseases at the same time, which can affect humans and animals.

Ticking Time Bomb

As you can imagine, the eating habits of these creepy crawlies pose several risks to our pets and ourselves. On a minor level, the bite site can be irritated and inflamed, and, if not properly cleaned and disinfected, could become infected. Occasionally, ticks burrow in, becoming embedded and causing a painful abscess which, if left untreated, could lead to sepsis or tissue damage (this can also happen if a tick is improperly removed, and the head left behind). If the number of ticks on the host is severe, the animal may become anaemic and even die of blood loss. This is particularly dangerous in small or young animals, like puppies and kittens.

Of course, the biggest concern that everyone has is tick fever (‘bosluiskoors’ in Afrikaans) and tick bite fever (‘bosluisbytkoors’). Tick fever aka biliary (or, to use the medical term, babesiosis), which attacks red blood cells, and ehrlichiosis (tick bite fever), which attacks white blood cells and platelets, are the most common serious tick-borne diseases affecting South African pets, with anaplasma not far behind. These diseases can be serious and fast-moving, even fatal, so it is crucial that you take your pet to their veterinarian if they seem unwell after being in a tick-infested area or you have found a tick on them.

Remember that, because ticks can have multiple hosts and carry several pathogens at once, it could still be carrying pathogens that can make humans ill. By ensuring our pets stay tick free, we create a barrier between ourselves and these biting beasts, keeping our families safe, too.

Be Tick Safe

The number one thing that you can do to protect your pets and yourself, is to keep their tick-prevention up to date throughout the year. Whereas a couple of decades ago, there was little in the way of tick treatments other than poisonous powders and dips, today there is a plethora of easy and effective products to choose from. Oral medications are very popular as they tend to last a long time, don’t smell, and aren’t messy, but they don’t repel ticks and won’t prevent them from biting. They work by poisoning the tick when it bites, with the idea that it will drop off before diseases can be transmitted. If you’re using oral medication, you may want to look into non-toxic external repellents too if you’re in a high-tick area. Alternatively, consider topical products like drops, sprays, or collars which contain a repellent as well – just bear in mind that the repellent action generally only works for a limited time and that most of these products are affected by swimming and shampooing. Be sure to only use products for the species of pet for which it was designed as what is safe for one can be deadly for another, and do not double up on products (it’s best to ask your vet’s advice).

When walking outdoors, avoid dense bush and long grass. Apply tick repellent to yourself before you go and opt for light-coloured clothing to cover your limbs (ticks are attracted to dark colours); you may want to tuck trousers into your socks. At the end of the walk, check yourself thoroughly from top to toe for any hitchhikers, then do a tick check on your pet. This is usually easier on short-haired, light-coloured animals; dark, long-haired, and double-coated dogs are more challenging. Run your hands over their body feeling for any bumps. Check between toes, inside ears, under the tail, and in the groin area as this is where ticks like to lurk. You can give them a rinse with plain water when getting home and/or run a fine-toothed comb through their coat to make it easier to find them, if you are unsure. Outside pets like cats, rabbits or tortoises, should be checked regularly for ticks when they’ve been out and about, particularly if you live in or near rural or wilderness land.

So, You’ve Found A Tick On Your Pet…

1. Gently part any fur around the tick so that it is clearly visible.

2. Grasp the tick as close to the animal’s skin as possible without squeezing the tick’s body. Ideally, use a purpose-made tick-removal tool which you slide under the tick’s body in order to remove it without squeezing. Alternatively, you can make one by cutting a small wedge into a plastic spoon or old credit card. Tweezers or nail clippers are an option but tend to be too flat to properly grasp the tick, although they will work in a pinch. 3. Pull slowly and steadily straight upwards away from the skin - do not twist, squeeze or jerk. Squeezing can cause the stomach contents to be pushed into the host and twisting or pulling too fast can cause the head to break off, which can embed in the skin. 4. Dispose of the tick in surgical spirits or dip or burn it. If you plan to put it into a toilet, plughole, or drain, ensure that it is dead first. 5. Disinfect the bite area thoroughly with pet-safe antiseptic, disinfect the tick-removal tool and clean your hands thoroughly. 6. Keep an eye on your pet for a couple of weeks afterwards to check for any signs of sickness, such as lethargy and fever, and ensure the bite area stays clean and infection-free. 7. Under no circumstances should you burn, freeze, or try to smother a tick with paraffin, petroleum jelly, nail polish, etc. Not only will this not cause the tick to let go, but it can make them regurgitate the contents of their stomachs into the bite wound, thus increasing the risk of infection. 8. Do not remove a tick with your bare hands. If it’s carrying something nasty, it could be transmitted to you via an open wound or abrasion.

HOW IS IT TRANSMITTED?

WHAT CAUSES IT?

WHAT’S THE INCUBATION PERIOD?

WHAT DOES IT DO?

SIGNS

HOW IS IT DIAGNOSED?

HOW IS IT TREATED? Yellow dog tick and brown kennel tick

Protozoan parasites called Babesia, of which there are several species.

10 to 20 days, but can be longer (several months or more in some cases)

Babesia parasites enter the bloodstream where they multiply in, and ultimately destroy, red blood cells. Anaemia, liver damage (the word ‘biliary’ refers to its effect on the liver) and jaundice are common. Swollen abdomen, enlarged spleen, fluid on the lungs and kidney failure can also occur. Babesiosis can clear up on its own, but, if it doesn’t, the consequences can be severe – even fatal - so always seek veterinary help if you suspect biliary.

Dogs appear lethargic and depressed, won’t want to eat, and may vomit. They could develop a fever (you might notice they seem shivery, but their nose and ears feel hot) and have swollen glands. Their gums and inner eyelids start to look pale and, eventually, may go yellow (jaundice). As it progresses, you may notice that their urine is red or brown. Dogs can also start showing signs of nervous system involvement, such as anxiety and seizures. In rare cases, there can be a sudden onset leading to death within hours, but, usually, the disease course takes several days. Cats generally just show poor appetite, lethargy, weakness, and poor coat condition but don’t have pale or yellow gums, or a fever.

Your vet will take a drop of blood, usually from your pet’s ear, and look at the blood under a microscope to find the parasites. A full blood count may also be done to measure blood cells and check for anaemia. Other blood tests may be needed to check organ function.

Anti-protozoal antibiotics, such as imidocarb disproportionate or diminazine are used. These drugs are potent and have side effects, so prevention is definitely better than cure. They may also prescribe supportive treatment, like a drip for hydration, medication to support the liver, and drugs for pain and fever. Blood transfusions may be necessary in severe cases. The key is early treatment. Bont tick and brown dog tick

Rickettsial bacteria called Ehrlichia canis.

8 to 21 days (but there are 3 phases)

Canine ehrlichiosis destroys white blood cells and has 3 phases. Phase 1 (acute) lasts about 4 weeks, during which some animals clear the infection. If it does not clear, phase 2 (sub-clinical) begins, which can last months to years during which the infection progresses asymptomatically. Some dogs go on to develop phase 3 (chronic). This seems to come out of the blue, is usually worse than the first time, and has a very poor prognosis. Catching it in phase 1 is crucial, which is why it’s important to take your pets to the vet if you notice they are unwell – even if they seem to get better. Although it is rare in cats, it can happen.

Phase 1: Dogs may appear lethargic, have poor appetite and weight loss, a fever, swollen glands and limbs, and may have abnormal bleeding (such as nosebleeds or bruising). Dogs could also be short of breath, have muscle twitches or appear unsteady on their feet. Cats may have swollen joints, shortness of breath, and anaemia. Phase 2: There are usually no symptoms, although some animals will bleed more easily after an injury. Phase 3: Weakness, fatigue, anaemia (you may see very pale gums and inner eyelids), swollen limbs, difficulty breathing, and abnormal bleeding sets in. There can be eye pain and inflammation as well as kidney inflammation. In the later stages, bone marrow can fail, which means white blood cells aren’t being produced.

Ehrlichiosis can be very challenging to diagnose, but, because of the severity of the disease if allowed to progress, vets may start treatment anyway if it is suspected. Blood tests can confirm the diagnosis, as well as check for anything else going on in the body.

Antibiotics (usually doxycycline) are given for several weeks, along with supportive treatment, such as a drip for hydration, pain medication, etc. Severe cases may need blood transfusions.

Note: Because these are both pretty complex diseases, it’s challenging to provide an overview of everything that they encompass. This table is intended to provide basic information to assist you in helping your pets and does not replace the advice and treatment of a veterinarian. Should you think your pet is unwell for any reason, please contact your vet straight away – the faster your pet gets the help it needs, the better its chances of a speedy recovery. 18